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>OnS Vol 1, 2, 3, 5 6, 7 scans https://mega.nz/#!9PxW1IAC!W3O1fHqCC35kMI9PDV5w21C_iPDIOZEXgGlPXcrtn-U
>GosuRori scans http://chochololita.livejournal.com/#post-chochololita-1982
What are your current planned projects? What are you working on? I'm planning mashing the raglan sleeves on this OP with no waist seam a -line JSK to get something a little MM Ekaterina inspired.
Old thread here >>9514297
>>
I'm planning on making some oldschool style pocket JSKs with these tartan fabrics (not combined ofc)
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>>9574468
Oh man, yes please. Post photos when you're finished. I should go looking at Joann's next time I'm there for some good tartan love.
>>
Thanks to the anon who posted the tip about watching Indian garment sewing channels. I'm just getting started with sewing and the couple of vids I've watched so far are very easy to follow.
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>>9574477
I will! I got these from an UK ebay shop, because the Netherlands only have your basic colors like red, a lot of variations of red and sometimes bright pink or dark blue. I really had hoped the blue would be lighter, but it was stated as aqua, so yeah.
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>>9574527
You should check out a stoffenmarkt/beurs near you or the lapjesmarkt if you're ever in Utrecht on a Saturday! There's lots of fabric choices available if you know where to look.
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>>9574468
Love those fabrics!
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>>9574535
thanks! I might check Utrecht then sometime, I haven't been there in a while. I normally don't go to big fabric markets as I find them really crowded, and my local one has gotten really crowded these days too.
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>>9574491
NP! It's a great starter. :)
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>>9574477
I feel like it's nigh-impossible to find decent tartan at Joanns :'(
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>>9575030
I was bored so I went taobao window shopping:
>https://world.taobao.com/item/550517722638.htm?fromSite=main
>https://world.taobao.com/item/527905087459.htm?fromSite=main
>https://world.taobao.com/item/523189126634.htm?fromSite=main
>https://world.taobao.com/item/545575260687.htm?fromSite=main
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>>9575143
Oh these ones are pretty cute
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>>9575348
oh but fyi these are just printed, they're not actually yarn-dyed
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bump
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I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, but what is a reasonable amount of time (i.e. how many hours) to go from basically zero to being able to sew simple skirts/dresses from patterns?
Is it worth it to find someone who offers sewing lessons, or should I just try it on my own?
My mother recently gave me her old sewing machine, and I've always wanted to learn how to make my own clothing. Not sure what the time commitment will be like though.
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>>9578815
depends on how much talent you have. if you can sew straight lines fairly quickly, it shouldn't be too difficult to sew basic skirts soon. dresses might take longer, because they use more difficult patterns and often include rounder lines and corners.

I think sewing a straight stitch, corners and curves are pretty much a first, very basic start so see how fast you learn.

I would only recommend sewing lessons when you get stuck.
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>>9578815
It really depends on who is teaching you. I've had students (as young as 6 years old) go from being terrified of the machine to being able to sew a competent, fairly complex pillowcase in about 5 hours. Give it about 15-20 hours and they can generally read a basic pattern without me. There's a lot of reinforcement required and repetition, but if you're willing to put in the time, it doesn't take too long to learn, just a lifetime to master.
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>>9578821
cont.

there aren't really any set hours for getting something learned, because like I said it depends on your talent.

at my sewing course they give you aprox a week or two to have lines, curves and corners mastered (taken that you don't practice full time)
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>>9574527
My local Jan Sikkes had weirdly coloured tartan like yellow and green the last time I checked. Maybe that is helpful.

Either way looking forward to seeing the finished JSK (at a meet?).
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Any good tutorials for wrist cuffs? I think all the ones I googled were made by non lolitas.
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>>9578815

Since it's your mother's machine, you'll have a headstart if you already know how to use it.

If you can already sew with the machine, and don't need to be rescued every time you sew, I think you can pretty much jump into a beginner's sewing pattern. Instead of a teacher, buy a good reference book (reader's digest book is pretty popular) and join an active, non-lolita sewing group (usually has better variety). Read the posts in the group, usually someone will talk about the importance of pressing or ask about bias stuff occassionally, so you can learn things by lurking. Stick with simpler non-lolita patterns first, basic shift dresses and tunic patterns are far simpler to make. Then work your way up to dresses and blouses after that.

If you have no idea what to do with the machine, find the manual (actually you should keep the manual anyway, there's usually important stuff in it), schedule a session with your mom and see how far you can go. Once you can sew accurate lines, try some tote bag/pillow cases. Then, as above, jump right into a simple beginner's pattern, buy a book, join a group. Probably take you an hour to work out how to work the machine, most tote bags can be done in a few hours. Yes, you can go from zero to simple pattern overnight.

If you're having problems with the machine even with the manual, either the machine needs servicing, or you need lessons to help you remember what to do, or maybe both. You can seriously fuck up a machine if you don’t know how to use it, so this is one you do need help with.

I guess it sounds like I’m stressing machine use. I find that most beginner patterns are actually pretty thorough. You just need to follow instructions and not be too sloppy or skip over too many steps thinking you don’t need it, and the result is usually pretty good. And where the pattern is lacking, the book and the sewing group can usually help out. So give things a try and only look for a teacher if you get stuck.
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>>9578901
oh look what I found with 'lolita wrist cuffs tutorial'
>http://violetlebeaux.com/2014/09/17/sew-lolita-style-wrist-cuffs/
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nx2OBq7edIA
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5Ifd1Aa4so
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Would it be too strange to make the bolero and skirt out of the same fabric to create a "suited" look? I really want to make Lolita pieces that are more everyday and I think one way to do it is to play with separates.
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>>9578572
This would've been super cute if they used a different print, something about the art seems really off.
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>>9578826
we don't have a Jan Sikkes close by. I really miss that store, loved to go there when I still lived up north.

I'll post a picture when finished! I just started cutting the pink one, and have enough lace to finish at least one. I'll have to order some black for the blue soon.
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>>9578901

Here's the page fron OnS 7 scans that someone scanned earlier. Wristcuffs are on the bottom left.

And because I also found the diagrams confusing too, here's the series of steps:

1. Layer the lace in order and sew them together along the top,
2. Sew a channel and insert 18cm of elastic through it. Topstitch at one end to hold the elastic in place.
3. Flip the top layer of lace up and topstitch Lace B on top of the elastic channel.
4. Fold in half (right sides in) and sew the two ends together. (I guess you should pull the elastic tight to make sure the machine catches both ends)
5. Flip it right side out and attach bows. The ribbons are 30cm each.
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>>9578917
I like it when a bolero/cape is from the same material as the skirt. It gives the feeling of a set. if you can, you should
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>>9578917

It's not rare, actually. Here's an IW cape + jsk set, there's at least one other AP set out there somewhere. There's also some dresses that have a fake bolero + jsk look as well.
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>>9578815
I took a sewing class in high school and found it really nice. Plus they taught some minor handsewing things, like how to sew a button on properly (You're doing it wrong if you don't sew a shank), and just how to be comfortable with machines as a rule.
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>>9578911
>You just need to follow instructions and not be too sloppy or skip over too many steps thinking you don’t need it
Oh my god I'm gonna stress this so hard. You're gonna be tempted to take shortcuts or wonder about whether this is that is truly important. When you get more experienced you're going to realize the importance of those seemingly superfluous steps. Get into good habits now (pressing your seams, hemming your shit, etc.). That way when you start making more complex garments you'll be used to doing the "extra" shit (in quotes because it's not extra at all, just good and thorough technique) and you won't be tempted to rush through and produce a subpar garment.

I struggle with this a lot - I think I do have the technical skill and can use my machine properly, I just get impatient, skip steps, don't double check stuff, end up doing things wrong, have to redo, etc. etc. which costs so much time and possibly material, too. Don't be like me anon, be patient and do it properly!
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>>9579205
I had to rip out an entire meter of ladder stitches because some decorative lace wasn't lined up properly and I didn't bother double checking.
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>>9579205
>>9579087
>>9578911
>>9578824
>>9578821
Thanks to everyone who replied.
I've never really sewn before other than some simple handstitching, and I'm not familiar with the machine. I think I'll search around the internet for the manual and maybe look into some classes/instruction just to get over being intimidated by the machine.

And I'll definitely try to be patient and deliberate, as I am also the type of person to try to rush or figure out shortcuts.

Thank you for all of your advice.
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>>9579255

Don't forget the book. A good sewing guide will contain a bunch of different techniques. So if you were taught how to sew a button shank in class and forgot, you can always look it up in the book.
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What are you gulls working on? I just drafted the bodice for >>9574461. Probably won't get around to the skirt portion until tomorrow, but I'm excited either way! I'm using this really nice cotton I found at a crafts thrift store for $7/3.5yds!
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>>9580763
Nice find! My machine is getting a tuneup right now, but I'm working on the plackets for a button down OP because I'm putting off doing the sleeves for as long as possible.
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>>9580769
Ooo, the textured fabric and that lace and the peter pan collar are such a natural match. I'm excited to the finished product!
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>>9579762
DA- what books would you recommend?
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>>9580792

Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing (or the New Complete Guide to Sewing, which is the new updated version). It's actually the only book I've ever seen other people recommend because it has almost every single proper technique under the sun in it.

If you find it hard to read (it's very dense, with a lot of diagrams instead of photos), you can try for one of the lesser books with photos instead, like The Complete Book of Sewing (DK Publishing).
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>>9580763
I'm trying out chiffon for the first time, it's going to be a cape-y collar kind of like VM's Lazy Afternoon print on an OP from the other fabric. So far, so good.
(please ignore snapchat filter lol)
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>>9574461
How often are there mistakes in the OnS books? I'm making the headbow on the right in OP's pic and there's an error in the instructions - it's a stuffed bow but says to fold in the ends to the middle as well, when clearly from the length of the bow compared to the length of the tails it hasn't been folded in (plus on the other photo where they made the bow in dotty fabric you can see the seam on the side of the bow if you look really carefully).

>>9581136
This fabric looks gorgeous, can't wait to see what you make with it
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>>9582274
I've only ever made a few OnS things, I've mostly made stuff from GosuRori and haven't run into any major mistakes. I also tend not to follow the instructions, I mostly go by instinct and only double check when I'm confused.

>>9581136
You and me both. I'm ruffling a bunch of chiffon for an underskirt and I'm a little bit intimidated not gonna lie. I can't wait to see it!
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>>9582274
I made that bow, but I didn't look at their instructions. I haven't noticed any other mistakes so far.
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Would anyone here be interested in having their paper patterns converted into printable digital files? I am looking for some freelance work.
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>>9580792
>>9580807
I second the recommendation for the Reader's Digest book. It covers EVERYTHING.
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>>9582274
I received a correction sheet with one of my books, I forget which volume though.
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>>9583232
More specifically, I have Otome no Sewing books 1-11 and Gosu-Rori volumes 1-16 with patterns that I can convert into printable digital files for anyone that is interested in not having to do patterns by hand again!
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>>9584511
Yes please anon, you would be a lifesaver.
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>>9584511
>>9584570
Yes pleaaaaaaaase. Price per pattern? Or would you just convert the pattern sheet as is, in which case-- price per sheet? I'd kill to have complete copies of OnS 4, 9 and 10. Some of the GosuRori scans are missing the drafting pages, and it's already pissed me off a few times, but I have to double check which ones are incomplete.
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>>9584570
>>9584600
I made a Tumblr page for this. You can find me under digitalpatternconversions if you search on there. I have OnS scans up for reference. Will be uploading GR in the coming week once I sort out all the pics.
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>>9584645
Quick question-- since you own the books already, will you just scan your copies rather than having us mail you ours?

Unrelated-- how do you guys calculate how long a strip of fabric to cut for a ruffle? I reverse engineered a ruffle on a skirt and got around 165% of the original hem circumference, but I'm curious as to what you guys do.
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>>9587826

>ruffle

Huh, that's pretty close to the standard -- I was told ruffles should be 1.5x what you want it on when I started sewing. Personally I prefer a number closer to 2x for a really gathered look though.
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What fabric should I use for a sleeping mask that won't irritate my eyes or be too warm?
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>>9588676
I think most are made of satin? if you don't buy anything too cheap, it should be fairly soft. you can also go for silk, in small quantities it shouldn't be extremely expensive
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>>9587826
>Quick question-- since you own the books already, will you just scan your copies rather than having us mail you ours?

If I already have the mooks you're looking to get a digital file for, then no. Just let me know which one you want. I'll only ask for a mailed paper pattern if I don't have a copy of it already.
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Where can I get free machine sewing patterns? Google is giving me so much unrelated shit
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>>9590131
for sewing clothes or for embroidery machine patterns?
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How much extra fabric do you usually use for shirring panels? I'm just looking for a few cm of ease and plan to put in a zipper too, but there probably needs to be more extra fabric than that to look good. 1.5x the intended width? 2x? The fabric isn't particularly thick.
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>>9591085
I don't think you'd need more than 2x for sure. I just finished a JSK from OnS that was double and I don't think it used a zipper.
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Is there a visual list somewhere of what patterns are in each OnS? Most places I've found only go up to 4 or 5, aside from the archive we have in OP.

Or if someone knows off the top of their head, which ones have patterns most similar to VM/MM fitted/low waist cuts?
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>>9591483

There's this dress in OnS 4? It's drop-waisted, you can easily swap the skirt out for a flared skirt if you prefer.

There's a fitted A-line dress in one of the others, give me a sec.
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>>9591532

OnS 8, the blue jsk in upper right.

Definitely wish there was an easier way to browse all the dress patterns. The digitalpatternsconversion anon up above is the only person I know of who seems to have all the books though.
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>>9591085

If it's a literal few cm, as in an inch or two, I'd skip the shirring and run elastic along the top (or wherever you want it to not gape).

I've always been told 2x for shirred pieces, but I don't see why you can't do 1.5x if it looks better. Wouldn't go down much lower than that though, it seems like pointless work to do all that sewing and just end up with a panel that looks mildly wrinkly instead of properly shirred.
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>>9591483

I've got all the Otome no Sewing and Gosu-Rori volume scans up on my FB page now. I only have the sewing pattern scans up; no craft stuff.

fb page name: digitalpatternconversions (can't link)

Browse by photo album. They have been cataloged by their original release dates.

I am offering digital pattern files for them too!!
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>>9591544

If you browse via archive on my Tumblr page, it makes for easier viewing if that helps at all.
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>>9592008
Can I pay you just to get copies of the drafting pages? I'm sized out of OnS so I have to grade patterns anyway.
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>>9592013

Oohhhh thanks. I didn't realise you had the whole set of OnS up.
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>>9591532
>>9591544
>>9592008

Thank you! This helps a lot.
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>>9578815
i learned to sew by practicing a lot of techniques on doll clothes lol. i collect bjds and just knowing how to do more advanced stuff on a small scale like sleeves and darts helped me when i made my first dress. its also wayyyy cheaper and you can mostly get by with just free scraps from the fabric store and cheap finishings from daiso/ebay
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>>9592068
Message me.
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>>9594209

Kind of curious to hear what kind of advanced stuff you try out on your dolls. Do you pattern draft from scratch, what's the most advanced technique you've tried so far, and what's the most difficult thing to do?

I have BJDs and pullips that I sew for, just wanted to compare notes. I know some folks with yoSDs say they just hold the cloth to the body and kind of cut a square with armholes and that suffices.
>>
Any other knitting gulls here?

I'm looking for bolero patterns with a silhouette appropriate for lolita and I'm not having much luck. The feature I really want is a rounded edge, pic related. It's possible that I could alter pre-existing patterns but I figured I'd ask here on the off-chance somebody can give me a lead. There are a lot of beautiful lacy patterns out there but I think they are more appropriate for classic lolita, which I am not.

Thanks in advance!
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>>9595711
i do kinda a mix of drafting from scratch and patterns. if there's something i really like the look of in a human pattern i own ill take a look at the page with all the pieces and copy the shape and just scale it to my msd, but i do buy and follow actual doll patterns a lot too. the most advanced technique is probably princess seams. i'm not at home so don't have pictures but the dress turned out really cute! i followed bjdcollectasy's 1/3rd dress pattern and scaled it down for my msd.
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>>9595986
I can't provide much help, I've been looking for a good pattern for a pretty lace to no avail, in both knit and crochet patterns. I am a classic though, could you link one of those patterns you said you found?
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>>9595986
>>9596131
You should google shetland lace, some good patterns might pop up
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>>9596143
This is a really pretty lace, thanks! I didn't know the word for that kind of lace!
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>>9595986

I'll post a few I found on ravelry that you might be able to use.

this one is from http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/109-42-bolero-with-lace-border
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>>9596250

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lacy-jacket

This is odd, it looks short in some photos and hip-length in others. Maybe need to shorten it.
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>>9596252

Last one

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/28-2-urara-bolero

there might be more on ravelry. I found these after filtering for free patterns and difficulty levels.
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>>9595986
Different anon, I found this one hiding in the depths of my ravelry library
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/27-28-1-bolero
>>
I got an old sweet AP jsk with full bodice. When comparing it with newer dresses, specially strap-style (straps around the shoulders), it is evident that the chest area in the old dress is too high. That gives a bad fit in me.
So I thought, why not modify the bodice into a strap style dress?
I haven't found tutorials for that kind of mod (only for fit adjustments).
Do you gulls know if this mod is doable with low to decent ability? I really like this dress and the only reason I don't wear it is the odd fit
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>>9574468
sorry for the blur, anons.
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>>9596318
You should rethink the pockets, now they look like badly done: they're not straight and it makes the pattern clash. If you want to keep them like that, at least cut the pocket fabric sideways so it won't look like a mistake.
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Another knitting gull here, looking for some casual otome style cardigans?
Crochet is ok too.
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>>9596311

What does the back of the dress look like? If it has detachable shoulder straps with buttons, some girls just wear the shoulder straps as a halter.

If it's one of those sewn with round armholes, no, it's not going to be an easy mod. Take it to a professional seamstress in your area and see what they suggest, or sell it off.
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>>9596253
>that rounded edge and lace trim
it's perfect, thanks anon!

>>9596131
Here are some of the cutest bolero patterns I've found so far:
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/elspeth
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/openwork-bolero
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/214s-03-short-bolero

Also these aren't lacy but I think they would work as excellent base patterns--sleeves or body could be lengthened, change the stitch pattern, add lace, etc etc
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sweet-little-nothing
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/113-12-bolero-with-crochet-borders
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>>9595986
Don't have a link handy right now, but take a look at Miette by Andi Satterlund on Ravelry.
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I just bought Vogue's V1094 pattern (pic related) thinking I'd modify it by cutting the top off and adding shoulder straps to make a simple low-waisted jsk.

But now I'm thinking maybe I can work that open neckline into my design, I think it looks very similar to VM's Chiffon Fairy Doll OP. I could ditch the collar embellishment and add a bit of ruffle and lace instead, then wear it over a high-necked chiffon blouse. It's not going to look exactly like burando, but then I'm not setting out to copy it anyway, just taking some inspiration.


Thoughts? Yes, doable, or do you think this neckline simply won't work for lolita?
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>>9597369

VM's Chiffon Fairy Doll OP for reference
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>>9597369
It's a bit wide imo, you're going to look like you tried too hard to make a normie rockabilly dress lolita. Chiffon Fairy doll works because of the layers of chiffon ruffles on the skirt + still having shoulder coverage.
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>>9600734

Ah, the neckline? I see it now that you mention it.

Think I'll try a mockup and see if I can modify to look more like the VM dress. Otherwise I'll just stick to my original plan of making low-waisted jsk.

Thanks for pointing that out.
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Who is on the left here?
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>>9603075
that's linda friesen I'm guessing
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>>9603075
It is Linda Friesen. Her witch dress, I think? Her finishing is fucking incredible, though - Leagues above any burando. You're also paying for her very well-fitted patterning, rather than cut-and-paste baby's first pattern JSK.

>Tfw fancy newer Janome fucks shit up so badly on dress that I basically HULK SMASH it to pieces.
>Sob for a while.
>Remember that elderly neighbor gave me her ancient Janome years ago.

This thing is an absolute beast, and there's virtually nothing on it that can break. My dress is going to have fucked up facing at the shoulders now, though.
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>>9603083
Thank you! Her work is beautiful.
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>>9603130
And thank you, too. I agree, if she's doing custom tailoring and even custom patterning at that level of quality then it makes sense that she'd be more expensive than some random amateur recycling generic patterns. Whoever is on the right in that picture, I wouldn't commission them for anything in the first place if they can't even be bothered to match up patterned fabric nicely and symmetrically for themselves.

My fav machine is a really old Singer given to me by my aunt because it was getting too old for her... ten years ago. It still works like a charm!
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>>9590321
embroidery machine patterns
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Could someone possibly help identify/find the type of satin used on pic related? I'm planning a classic style op with it
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>>9607606
Are you referring to the bow? Or the dress itself? Can you be more specific?
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>>9607611
The dress itself thank you
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The more I stare at this fabric the more violently purple these flowers become and I'm starting to question whether or not I should keep this skirt once I've finished it or just sell it.

Thoughts, gulls?
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>>9608215

Also of note: this is the bottom ruffle on the lining layer, not the skirt itself.
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>>9574461
Dumb question, are the scans the same that's included in the actual books or do they come with actuall full sized patterns?
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>>9608215
I vote sell. The purple itself isn't bad, but it looks garish on the stark white background. It might work if you did a net overlay over the main skirt fabric à la Moitié
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>>9608252

To be fair the actual body of the skirt will be more of the same. Not that that's necessarily going to help it.

I'll finish it tomorrow and post the final product for further scrutiny.
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>>9608242

Actual full-sized patterns. They're all printed in different colours overlapping each other on the pattern sheet, though. You're supposed to cut out the pattern sheet, trace out the pattern you want onto a seperate tracing paper, and then use that.

There's a few pattern pieces drawn in white where you have to draft it from scratch -- usually simple rectangles where it makes more sense to tell you "draw a rectangle 1.5m long by 70cm wide" instead of wasting space trying to print a hugeass rectangle on the pattern sheet.
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>>9608242
Full sized but no seam allowance is included.
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>>9608215
I honestly don't think it's that bad, but still post a photo when it's done.
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>>9608242
Full-sized patterns. I actually own a fair few of them and prefer to draft them myself. You do have to cut the huge pattern sheets out of the book and I'm really like emotionally opposed to cutting anything out of a book.
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>>9608561
>cut the huge pattern sheets out of the book
>CUT
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>>9608777
Not the patterns, the sheet.
The sheet is glued into the book.
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>>9608777
You have to cut it out if you want to have any chance of unfolding it and actually tracing the patterns, anon.
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Radioactive purple roses anon back again. It looks less terrible than I expected it to. Fun fact, the white ruffle was cut out of a scrap of 100% silk crepe from work and I'm pretty sure it's worth more per yard than the entire skirt itself..
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Hey anons, hoping for a bit of advice. I got this dress recently, and everything about it is perfect... except for the waist ties. For some reason, they're like 4 inches shorter than regular waist ties, and for SOME REASON, they made them out of the same fabric as the bodice, which is... I know shit all about fabric, but it feels almost like one of those canvas tote bags. Obviously it's not actually canvas, but it's heavy and thick like that. As you can imagine, it doesn't exactly look nice when you tie it. What would be a good fabric to use to replace them with? The dress has a built in underskirt that's a soft meshy type fabric, but I don't know if I'd be able to fins that at a joann's or anything nearby. I was considering using high quality ribbons, like the ones Antique Beast uses on their headdresses, but I wasn't sure how that would hold up to washing, etc., nor where to find something like that.
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>>9609399
Here they are tied for reference or whatever. I'm just really confused about this fabric choice. They stand up like that even when the dress is worn / is vertical so it looks awkward.
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>>9609405

Baby/AAtP's lucky pack dresses have those same kind of waist ties, though fortunately they're long enough to be attractive. If you can find a really thick grosgrain ribbon I'd say go for that, those will stand up to just about anything.
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>>9609405
It'd probably look fine as it is if you tied the bow smaller and tied it more neatly.
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>>9609496
The top part looks fine, but the ends hang really weirdly even after I ironed them flat, which is what I don't like.

(The other bow was so sloppy because I tied it while the dress was just laying flat, which is... awkward to do.)

>>9609471
Ahh, gotcha, thanks!
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>>9609521

that looks like a function of the waist ties probably having been cut at an odd angle on the grain. I think it's kinda cute, but that's just me. You could attach a bead or two off the end to hang and make them a little more decorative, if you don't want to go through the trouble of pulling them off and replacing them?
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>>9609561
The dress does have these little cross charms on the front lace up ribbons, I was thinking about trying to find them somewhere to add them to whatever I end up doing with the ties anyway. I could give it a shot first and see if it's enough to spruce it up before I put in the work.
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Have other knitfags started knitting? I'm trying out some vest pattern I found with little modifications.
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>>9613290
I don't know any knitting but I've been meaning to learn more crocheting so I can do amigurumi and I might do a crocheted scarf for winter.

Too much to do with my embroidery right now though. And I have been meaning to make a needle book for some more convenient storage and access to all my needles, I need to revise my plans for that one since I kinda went overboard with my first design.
>>
>>9608777
Oh ffs, read will you. I'm not retarded, of course you don't cut the patterns out, the fucking sheet you walnut.
>>
How are detachable veils attached to rectangle headdresses? I'm in the process of making said headdress. However I'm not sure what the best choice of fastening would be. Could someone please provide a photograph of the fastenings on a similar accessory?
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>>9603075
Who's on the right tho? I knew Linda but not the other one or the beef mentioned above
>>
Are there any patterns for something like pic related in any of the Otome no Sewing books? I'm looking for something like this, preferably with gathered "cups", too.
>>
>>9616939
It's the girl with the rainbow bangs. I don't know if there's real beef, she just likes to talk shit and really overestimates her own skill.
>>
Is there a way to add shirring to an OP that won't look stupid as fuck? I'm losing weight and want my dresses to shrink with me, but I'm struggling to draft a design that doesn't look really dumb.
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Recently got into sewing, (received a sewing machine as a present) but apart from Home-Decoration and sizing down a dress (poorly, if I may say so.) I don't have the courage to start making full on clothing.
Would you recommend buying a mannequin?
So I can visualize the process?
If yes, which kind? Something like this (looks really elegant to me) ?

Or just a plain white one, where I can stick needles in.
>>
>>9617173
Personally, I'd say no, especially not the wire kind that you're looking at. I'd work on your skills with premade patterns and testing the fit on yourself. Are you comfortable making a skirt? That's as simple as it gets for clothing, but still can be enough complication that it's worthy of practice.
>>
>>9617173
I wouldn't buy a mannequin unless you really start getting into making garments, they're expensive and not worth having unless you're really going to be using it. If you do decide to purchase one don't buy a metal one, those are really just for decoration. Go ahead and splurge on a nice fabric one that has adjustable measurements. Or if you're looking for a cheaper option you can make your own mannequin with duct tape, stuffing, and a pole, just google/YouTube 'DIY dress-form' and you'll get tons of ideas.
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>>9617173
A mannequin like this is useless for sewing. You can't fit garments on it, and you can't drape on it. You're better off buying a cheap fabric display mannequin if it's somewhat close to your measurements and padding it out where necessary. I don't recommend an adjustable form either unless you will be making for big range of sizes and need to do fitting without the person there. Adjustable forms have ridges and gaps which makes them hard to use for draping and pattern making as well.
>>
>>9617136
not rainbow anymore
>>
Can anyone recommend me the best place to buy good faux flowers and lace?
>>
Is there any advantages of sewing by hand vs a machine? I know that Dreamstress sews almost entirely by hand, and I'm wondering if there's a benefit I'm missing?
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>>9618558
more rori desu~ In all seriousness, no. There's a few things that are nice to do by hand, but there's not really an advantage to doing it ALL by hand,
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>>9617173
No, a mannequin isn't going to help your confidence or lack of sewing ability. Invest in some lessons or even a book in the basics.

>>9617151
Back or side zipper, and are they obviously too big everywhere? Some designs I imagine you could get away with corset lacing or a little waist shirring rather than full back/side shirring..
>>
>>9618558

The historical costumefags like to construct things by hand mostly because that's how the originals were created. That's really the only group I can think of off-hand that's skilled enough to construct well but still likes to handsew even simple basic seams.

In lolita if someone says they (have/want to) handsew their entire dress my first question is to ask whether they own a sewing machine. A lot of times it's simply young girls with limited sewing skills who try to make their first lolita dress, and can't really construct properly or don't really know how to use handsewing skills to their full advantage.
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>>9618558
Couture houses apparently sew by hand - it's something that takes years of training and the tiny neat stitches they do are said to be more durable than machine sewing.

That said, for hobby seamstresses? No. It'd be for the fun, or novelty, or because you don't own a sewing machine. There are some things that you are supposed to handsew (e.g. slip stitch a waistband closed, invisible hem) but some of those can actually be replaced by machine or alternate techniques depending on how nice you need it to look (e.g. seam can be done by invisible hem foot, or bias binding, or serging, etc.)
>>
Apologies for dumb question, but if I'm making a blouse should I use a medium weight interfacing?
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>>9619565
I usually add side zippers, but now I can just throw the dresses on without having to unzip it. I'm a fattychan losing weight so it's been a royal pain in the ass, I like your idea about the corset lacing, though. I just really don't want to have to totally deconstruct dresses after I get to a certain size where all the dresses are just too big, ya know?
>>
>>9618558
The only advantage I've found is when you have to attach a skirt to a bodice that has some kind of pattern you have to keep aligned. Sewing by hand gives you way more control and you can be super precise about matching up patterned fabrics without worrying about the fabric shifting unexpectedly. I'll also handsew a skirt to a bodice if the skirt is just really heavy and I don't want to lose track of where all the fabric is. If I'm doing a scalloped hem sometimes I'll hand baste stitch the curves to make sure I don't have any buckling.
So tldr: if what you want to do will be a pain in the ass with the machine, just hand sew it.
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>>9620500
You should use an interfacing that is appropriate weight for the blouse fabric. Bring it and ask at the fabric store.
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Hey anons, I need some help. I want to make the dress featured in OP's picture but I want to lengthen the sleeves to my elbow or even my wrist, with a regular cuff instead of elastic. I've lengthened sleeves before, but never ones like these. Are they raglan sleeves, or something else?
cont.
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>>9621357
At first I considered simply lengthening the sleeves like pic related (>6000hrs in MSPaint) but I get the feeling that it would end up looking super awkward this way. I have some muslin laying around so I can test it, but if someone has any tips before I waste a bunch of time, that would be much appreciated.
>>
>>9621357
>>9621360

It's a raglan sleeve, but one that has been adapted for a more open, square neckline, and then widened to be puffy sleeves. Pic sort of related, the blue line shows how cutting the normal rounded neckline into a square shape will result in the kind of sleeve shape you see in your OnS pattern.

I don't have advice for actually lengthening it, but if you can find tutorials for lengthening raglan sleeves you can now compare the shape back to your OnS sleeve and see how to lengthen it.
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>>9621424
Thanks, anon. After staring at that pic for several minutes straight and giving myself a headache, I think I've figured out what to do.
I'm going to make my muslin and will be reporting back with pictures if it turns out hilariously badly. Maybe if it turns out okay, too.
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>>9620536
I don't get how a dress without a zipper is easier. If going over your head, you mess up your hair/makeup, if stepping in, your blouse is all sorts of screwy. Zipper is much easier imo.
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>>9574461
Model on the right reminds me of a much prettier sniper_nyan.
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I don't know are the knitfags still here but I finished the vest. The buttonholes are too big so I still need to sew them a bit smaller. Might do another one with different lace pattern.
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>>9621672
That was pretty quick, well done.
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>>9621446
Please report back, I wanted to do this too but wasn't sure how to go about it.
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does anyone have any novelty bag patterns/tutorials or inspiration? OnS 4 has a rabbit bag pattern I think but it's not available for download
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>>9622056

There's a tutorial up on egl that converts a bunny plush into a bunny bag. You should be able to get the gist of things to convert any soft toy you want into a novelty bag

http://egl.livejournal.com/11582191.html

You will need the chrome extension that fixes photobucket images to see the pictures.
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>>9622168
Ah this is awesome thank you! surprisingly super easy to do too. I've always wanted an Usakumya but paying $100+ for a stuffed animal that can barely carry a phone is crazy (no matter how cute it is)
>>
Why do OnS's patterns not include seam allowences? Do people tend to sew with different allowences? I'm only at an intermediate level and mine don't change much.
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>>9622238
I think it's just a matter of convention - in Europe, patterns tend not to include them either. At least, I can recall that my mother's Burda magazines didn't have pattern allowances, even if the patterns sold in North America do.
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I made a dress. Design is pretty throw away since I bought the fabric forever ago and it's not really my style any more.
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>>9623161
I think it's adorable! The print is perfect and it looks well made, nice work
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>>9623161
The construction looks decent, but it's still pretty ugly. The print and the pattern together are too busy, and the proportions of the hem ruffle is awkward. I think it would be cute if you shortened the ruffle and made it and the bow in a solid brown or white.

I also hate the print itself, but that's entirely personal taste.
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Okay, I'm making a desperate plea here-- Does anyone own OnS3 and would be willing to take a photo of page 30. It has the fabric/notion requirements (and most importantly) the drafting instructions for the tiered sailor OP. I own 8 and 11 and would be happy to take photos of whatever in return. I had it all planned out to go and realized my scan is just missing page 30. Please and thank you!
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>>9622241
Thank you for the info.
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>>9623161
I hate the print too but the design is really nice. Good job, anon
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>>9623161
The print really isn't my taste, but I love the construction. Would love to see this in navy for the main parts with the red/white stripe ruffle/bow for a marine/sailor look.
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i bought this double sided knit fabric. any recommendations for some loliable patterns?
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>>9623326
that's super cute! where did you get it? i don't have any patterns offhand but a cutsew-style cardigan would be a good choice
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>>9623345
theres a save a thon near my house that had some in the discount bin! Thats what i was thinking though, I wanted to try to find a pattern that was more AP style but i havent found anything yet.
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Best place to pick up lace?
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>>9623285
Here you go!
If anything isn't clear enough or something important got cut off I can take a better picture of that when I get home. I also have 8 and 11 so I don't need any scans in return, but maybe another anon does.
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>>9623350
aww man, i was hoping it was online. great find though!
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>>9623402
What kind of lace? How soon do you need it? Does it need to be dyeable?
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>>9621672
That looks nicely done! I like it.
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I took a look at the OnS scans. It looks nice and all, but where's the page scans of huge sheet that has all the patterns?
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>>9624193

Not many people scan it. It's a huge sheet after all, doesn't fit in most scanners.
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>>9624309
Agreed, but it would be totally possible to scan it in pieces and then paste them together in photoshop or something.

I just feel like it's worth the effort since the patterns are honestly the most useful part of the books.
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>>9624378
Yeah, but why would we do that when all the books are easily available? The only one I could see doing it for is book 1 as it can be hard to find.
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>>9623476
Polyester, the stuff you see on modern lolita dresses and accessories, don't need it right away. I remember there being some taobao sites but don't remember them, is there anything like this available stateside?
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>>9624449
Since you don't need it soon this ebay shop based in Korea would probably have some stuff you'd like http://stores.ebay.com/Laceking2013/Cotton-lace-/_i.html?_fsub=6051406015
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>>9624378
You could just buy the damn thing you know, they are cheap as fuck on cdjapan.
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Need some opinions /cgl/
I want to make an empire waist dress from this border print but can the decide if I should do a bell or cupcake type skirt. I want the seams Fir shaping, but don't know if it would look too busy seamed. Of course if i seam it I will attach the border separatly
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>>9621677
>>9623689
Thanks for the compliments
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>>9624704
This is hideous. I'd definitely remove the border and use it with a main fabric that's less migraine-inducing.
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>>9624704
Cupcake for border prints. You don't even notice the difference between cupcake and a-line in empire waist since the petticoat begins lower and (most of the times) makes a-line shape no matter what kind of petticoat you're wearing. The reason to do a-line bottom is to make the upper part lightier since it won't be gathered.
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>>9624449
laces.taobao.com if you don't mind doing taobao stuff.

They have embroidered mesh lace, very much like what you find on dresses from Baby (sometimes they even compare stock photos - that is to say, it is the same kind of generic lace). They have cluny and venise lace too, and all sorts of ribbons. And it's pretty dang cheap.
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>>9624704
Yeah sorry anon but that pink is way too bright
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>>9624309
>>9624596
>>9624378 is not me. Honestly, I kinda asked out of morbid curiosity. Also OnS isn't that widely available on cdjapan. A lot of the older ones are out of stock.
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>>9624931
You can still get the ones that are in stock at cdjapan and those that aren't you can probably get (easily) on amazon.jp, y!auctions, rakuten, etc from secondhand/new sellers.
The people that share scans probably want to help out others that aren't sure that they want the issue or not.
They are really worth buying, but if you don't collect them (like I do and did with GosuRori) you can pick the issues you like best with the help of the scans.
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>>9624709
thanks for the opinion.
>>9624755
Thanks! I'm not planning on wearing a petti So I'm looking for a way to make it not look like a maternity dress (otome)
>>9624770
it's more of a purple actually.
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Was hoping to make a simple JSK with this fabric but now that I look at it I'm not sure if it's loliable enough. Opinions? Ruler for scale. Also I was thinking of making the bodice from plain black so it doesn't look too busy. Is that a good idea?
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>>9625148
If it's a very simple JSK I think you would get away with it. Just make sure once you wear it to coord it with a lot of black (black blouse, black socks etc). It'll look really OTT otherwise. Possibly making the bodice black would help, but it might look strange when you coord it. Maybe making this into a skirt would be better?
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>>9624969

Some of the Leur Getter high-waisted dresses I've seen use a flared skirt (A-line), it really does help cut out bulk around the underbust so it does not look like a maternity dress. (Like this: https://lolibrary.org/items/indie-leur-getter-tea-time-tart-cutlery-cami-jsk-with-a-brooch).

Just my two cents though, the border print is pretty wide, so I don't really think cutting and resewing them onto a flared skirt is such a good idea, I think it's going to deform the shape of the skirt because it can't continue the flare shape.

The LG high-waisted jsks that have a border print are usually pleated, which is another option you could consider. You could set the pleats up to halfway down the skirt and that will help the bulk of the fabric lie flatter instead of poofing out around your waist (example: https://lolibrary.org/items/indie-petit-gateau-cami-jsk-with-waist-ribbon)


And then there's the option of making a princess-seam dress, and then adding a fake "high waist", the way IW makes their Rose Flare jsk (https://lolibrary.org/items/iw-rose-flare-jsk). To maintain the border print without cutting and pasting, you might look into modifying a pattern like Vogue V1348 (pic), which cuts the skirt and the A-line bodice as one piece, so you don't have to cut and resew the border.
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>>9625148

I think it's a good idea if you go through lolibrary looking at striped jsks. I could see so many different ways to work the print, depending on what substyle you want and how complicated you want to get.

My personal fav would be a similar cut to VM's regimental stripe low waist jsk (pic), then coord it classic-style with some flower accents. If that cut looks too complicated, then a simple cut a la Kuranosuke stripe jsk with some flower brooches seems really quick and easy. On the more OTT end you could also attempt something like Angelic Pretty Flower Garden jsk. Lots of possible routes, but you do have to think about how to actually style it and what you actually want to wear.
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>>9624704
I'm never trusting a gull's concrit again. this is so tacky and absolutely not lolita
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>>9625454
OP here, rest your mind it's not for lolita. I'm asking here since I know you guys would be helpful with border prints and similar constructions.
>>
Keep in this live
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>>9624704
Am I retarded or are bell and cupcake like... the same thing?
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>>9627632
Cupcake is a rectangle, bell is an a-line/panel
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>>9627643
WTF are you on, they are different words for the same thing.
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>>9627643
It's confusing because depending on how you imagine a bell to look like, you would think it has more flare or a rounded top.

But bell, cupcake, and rectangle are the same. A-line, flared, princess seam are some of the terms that refer to the other.
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>>9627643
are you retarded? bell and cupcake are the same thing. there's a word for a-line skirts and its, well, a-line
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>>9578568
hey! thats mine! i made it years ago! haha. glad to see someone liked it :)
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>>9625148
Makes me think ETC/leur getter, their simple basic bodice + pleated or a-line skirt cut. Kinda like this jsk (although I know the scale of the stripes is different) or the jam jar border one with stripes.
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>>9627912
I thought princess seam really only referred to the bodice.
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>>9628444

People like to extend the seam lines into the skirt, it makes for a very flattering silhoutte not to have the waistline cut you in half in the middle.

In the lolita the skirt would be a lot more flared than this. And sometimes people discard the bodice and simply make a flared skirt with the same six seamlines they carried over from what used to be a princess-seamed dress. Thus, a princess seam skirt.
>>
My apologies for popping in with an utterly newbie question, but the help thread wasn't very responsive.

I'm looking at getting a sewing machine and I've never had one before. Main things I'm looking for are a reasonable price point, a form factor that makes for easy transport, and stretch stitch settings since I plan on working with lycra in the future.

I live in the US if that helps. Only craft store nearby is Michaels and I prefer buying online. What's best/recommended for a newbie with my reqs?

Bonus question: what other supplies should I pick up to get started regardless of machine? Anything besides thread and spare needles?
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>>9628865
https://www.thespruce.com/best-beginner-sewing-machines-to-buy-4137153

There's lots of guides online. About extra items, I'd say you should get some different types of needles for your machine. Stretch needles specifically for stretchy fabric and elastic. That and of course elastic thread/normal elastic is super helpful for making clothes.
other things that you'll end up needing:
measuring tape
tailors chalk or something to mark the fabric
pins
seam ripper
fabric scissors
spare bobbins

t b h there's lots of guides on that too that will cover it all in more depth.

This all depends if you're a complete noob to sewing in general or just haven't used a machine before. happy sewing anon
>>
>>9628865
The big sewing machine brands (Brother, Bernina, Singer, Janome, etc) are all very similar in terms of quality. The specs of a specific machine are what's more important. The specific model I have is the Janome 7025 and it works like a dream for me and it has all the features you want. It was slightly more expensive than some other models but it's worth paying just that little bit more. It came with a hard cover and while I haven't been moving it around myself that does make it easier to transport.
I would recommend getting a few different feet to go with the machine. Machines generally come with a zip foot and a buttonhole foot but I regularly find myself having to use an invisible zip foot and a rolled hem foot. Spare bobbins and machine needles of different weights are a must too.
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>>9628489
Mm yeah, I've made dresses that are "one-piece" with no waist seam, I just wasn't aware that we called the whole thing princess seamed.
>>9628865
I recommend finding a local sew & vac dealer and trying out some machines in person. Specifically test how easy it is to make a buttonhole, and if you like the auto threader--
you'll thank me later. They'll carry much more reputable and reliable brands than your generic brother, singer, etc. I personally settled on a Viking Emerald 112. It's got a solid metal interior (no plastic gears to break down and wear down!) which was really important to me. Good amount of stretch stitches, and a small handful of decorative ones. Most Brother and Singer machines are what we call "throw aways" in that it's usually cheaper to buy a new one outright rather than have it repaired. Brands worth looking at, imo, are: Bernina, Viking, Elna, Juki, Janome, Pfaff.

Something you may also want to consider saving up for-- a nice serger will be REAL HANDY for stretch fabrics. It's also nice to finish edges on wovens.
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>>9628865
Sewing machines are one of those thing where price equals quality. Don't get a cheap one, you will regret it later. At least I did, I stopped sewing for few years because I hated my machine so much.
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>>9629262
I think in most cases, you're right, but with some exceptions. I have a relatively cheap sewing machine (~120 USD or so) and it's served me very well. I've been using it for about 6 or 7 years now and it's never had any major problems. It's a Singer, too, which makes it doubly surprising. I'm thinking of upgrading soon, but only because I want some additional stitches.

Also, you can sometimes find super cheap, very old machines that are basically tanks and are almost impossible to break. I picked up a 1970's or so Brother machine from a thrift store for about $20 and it lasted me years.
>>
Where do y'all buy your fabrics?
My local shop doesn't have anything nice and I was thinking of ordering from taobao or ali maybe?
Also, is it worth it to import fabric or is that an expensive foolish thing to do?

I love classical and gothic mostly, so nice florals, velveteens, prints, beautiful solid colors, regimental stripes, etc are what I'm after.
If you have any shops please share them with me.
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>>9629518
I've ordered from Popohouse on Taobao, and have been really pleased so far. Really cheap and fairly good quality. Not a lot for sweet, but I'm largely classic so that's not a problem.
>https://shop103880190.world.taobao.com/search.htm?_ksTS=1489453984112_353&callback=jsonp354&mid=w-9795602006-0&wid=9795602006&path=%2Fsearch.htm&search=y&pageNo=1#anchor
This shop has a ton of Japanese imports for a pretty good price. Haven't ordered from them myself though.
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>>9628865
The Janome 2200XT is a good basic machine, particularly if you have no idea how to machine sew.
In terms of other supplies - more bobbins, machine oil, seam ripper, decent scissors, pins. And machine sewing lessons.
>>
These need a lot of work for technical execution but I don't have the right tools on hand but intend to redux once I do.
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>>9629805
Wow that sentence structure; sorry.

I can embroider lettering on the felt crosses next time too.
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>>9628865
>stretch stitch settings since I plan on working with lycra in the future.
I'll touch on this a little:

I have a Janome 4030QDC and I love it, that thing can go through four layers of denim or fake fur like a hot knife through butter. It was driving me crazy though that I could not, for the life of me, sew with knits or stretch fabric. It was incredibly upsetting because my thought process was "But I have such a good machine, why won't it work!!!" It was my own fault though because I was trying to cut corners and I wasn't using the proper materials. Don't do that, do it properly.

>use a proper needle, ballpoint or stretch for knits. I bought Schmetz seeing a recommendation online after cheap ballpoints failed me. They're fantastic.
>use good thread, none of that 3/$1 cheap cotton stuff, Gutterman or bust. Cheap thread was fucking up my machine's tension too. See: https://www.thespruce.com/types-of-sewing-thread- 4078428
>use tissue paper as stabilizer to prevent puckering.

I've done all that and finally solved my issues. Mind you, I still yearn after a serger but at least knits no longer make me want to cry and toss everything out the window. I'm actually itching to make more knit stuff now (cutsew dress anyone?) and that's a good feeling.
>>
Where do you all do custom fabric printing? Is spoonflower any good?
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>>9631026
I've done this research before, here are some Lolita specific reviews:
>http://egl.livejournal.com/13453844.html
>https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=329098.0
>http://egl.livejournal.com/16957306.html
>>
>>9631083
Photobucket is killing me.
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>>9631083
Thanks mate.
>>
How long would you guys say you take on a project (min/max amount of time, in hours or days)? I'm still sort of a novice and I'd like some reference for how long handmade lolitas take sewing one piece of clothing.
I know I'm being general, feel free to specify on whatever type of thing you usually make.
>>
>>9633223
It depends on your skill level or whether you're willing to redo things that aren't quite perfect. I made a fairly simple JSK out of OnS a few months ago and it took me about 1 day for drafting the pattern pieces and cutting the fabric, and 2-3 days to actually sew it all up. When I was doing the actual sewing I would usually sew for 10+ hours each day with only short food breaks. It took me 3 days because I'm a perfectionist and wanted every little stitch to be perfect, so I spent a lot of time seam ripping and resewing things. I'm still a beginner and my machine is still relatively new so I did have to redo things a lot, but a lot of the mistakes were probably the kinds of mistakes that wouldn't be noticed when worn. I'm just picky, so if I ignored most of the 'mistakes' and kept going I probably could've finished the dress a lot faster. In hours I guess I'd say around 25-35? from drafting to adding the final details. If you're making a fairly detailed blouse or something it'd probably take a bit longer, and if you were sewing a simple Lolita A-line skirt it'd probably take a lot shorter. And if you're drafting things from a block or from absolute scratch (no instructions) testing and trialling things would take a good chunk of your time too. Also I should probably mention that if you're making a lolita skirt or dress then you'll probably be spending a lot of time just gathering fabric, lolita clothes generally have a lot more fabric than regular clothes in order to accomodate a petti. There's not really a set amount of hours or days but that's just my experience.
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>>9633250
Thanks for your opinion. I know there's no set amount of time, I'm curious to how long people here take.
I'm a perfectionist too, I think it's better to have things be perfect and to love the item than to rush it and resent it or be embarrassed.
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>>9633223
I'm a lot like >>9633250. I spend a day drafting and cutting. And then usually sew it up over the course of a few days. In terms of days elapsed, it's usually probably around ~2 weeks, just in terms of fitting around other plans, and getting burnt out. Ditto the 10 hours at a time stuff. I get really obsessed and can't do anything else when I'm on a good roll with a project. I also waste a lot of time changing design aspects as I go. Things that help me work faster though... If I take the time at the start of my project to write out all of the individual steps in order in English. Even just like "attach lace to sleeve".

Also, I'm always trying new techniques, seeing if it'll improve my end product noticeably. The OP I'm working on right now is made out of a semi sheer cotton lawn. I spent a few hours underlining it, which is done all by hand. I think it's gonna give the bodice a lot of structure which will be perfect.
>>
I don't know if this has been discussed before, if it has I'm sorry but I'm new to sewing (not new to lolita) and I just bought the simplicity 8444 lolita 'costume' pattern and I was going to give it a try. Has anyone used it before? Any advice or thoughts?
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>>9633540
They're basically fine, but I think I remember the waists being too low on them. That's an easy enough fix.
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>>9633223
I've still got unfinished projects from years ago. Recently I made a simple cape - about 1 hour of drafting, then 5 hours of construction spread over 3 days including hand-hemming with a bias binding hem
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>>9633540
The pattern designer wrote about it on her blog here:
http://www.andreaschewedesign.com/blog/lovely-little-lolita-8444
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>>9633259
>better to have things be perfect and to love the item than to rush it and resent it or be embarrassed.
This so much. I originally was taught to sew by my mother and she always made a point to teach me not to cut corners and to redo anything I wasn't 100% happy with. If you're a beginner it's really worth it even if it seems really time consuming at first. Because then you'll actually be proud of the things you make and actually want to wear them outside instead of shoving them to the back of your closet trying to pretend they don't exist.

>>9633398
>write out all of the individual steps in order in English. Even just like "attach lace to sleeve"
I do this too. It's pretty helpful even just to translate the words for 'right side' or 'wrong side' so you can just look at the picture and know what to do without fussing about what things are and accidentally sewing things backwards when you're working on a project way into the night or something.
>>
Has anyone used circular ruffles in lolita and had it look good? I'm considering it for a solid colour gothic/rococo underskirt, but unsure if it'll look too flamenco or too "flouncy". I feel like the way the ruffles stick out might be nice on the underskirt but could also be a bit tacky somehow...thoughts?
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>>9634183
Just like.. a ruffle? It's pretty common, they're everywhere. It'll only look tacky if you make them too big, have way too many, have them going in crazy directions or have terrible fabric.
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>>9634201
I was thinking a black/gothic version of one of the OTT dresses like AP/BtSSB do, with the multiple tiers of ruffles. That's why I wondered if it'd look a bit weird, just because most dresses like that have gathered ruffles that sit flatter and the only reference point I have for multiple, layered circular ruffles is flamenco.
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>>9634210
It's not weird at all, there are plenty of OPs and JSKs like that, dresses like that are my favorite honestly (not a print person). Just like the previous anon said, make sure you have good fabric and that your tiers of ruffles aren't too large. Don't half ass the ruffles either - I think ruffles can look ita if they're barely ruffles
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>>9634201
No anon means something like pic related.

>>9634183
I don't really see it looking good unless you did them in a really drapey fabric that doesn't jut out, but then you'd be better off just gathering rectangle strips.
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>>9634274
Thanks - yeah that was what I was thinking, I was just more keen to not have to gather a million metres if possible
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What's the most that you gulls have paid for lace or fabric? And what do you pay usually for your favourite ones?
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>>9636036
I'd love to know this too! I mostly look at fabric.com and JoAnn's so I don't know too much about more expensive fabrics... although I've been eyeing a lot of the material on gorgeousfabrics.com, there's so much to look at you can't find anywhere else.
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>>9636036
Last year I did a Taobao order for 450 yards of lace that set me back about $100 after SS fees and postage, which actually isn't that much if you think about how much I paid per yard. Otherwise I think $20/yard linen is the most I've paid?
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>>9636044
yeah, I use what they sell at my local market/haberdashers and I've never paid more than 20 pounds on a metre of anything. I haven't ever delved into more luxurious fabric or trimmings so I'm just curious

>>9636060
That's a lot of lace, and surprisingly cheap. What did it look like?
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>>9636036
$15/yd for silk/rayon velvet. Which is actually really a good price for it, but still. Ouch. All of my lace has come from Taobao/Ali so far, and it's all pretty reasonably priced. Good quality overall too.
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>>9636060
Where do you source your lace? Taobao shop link?
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>>9636137
Can you provide links to where you buy your lace
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>>9636293
>>9636295
https://laces.world.taobao.com/
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>>9636333
Oh, do you use a forwarding service? Is it easy to buy direct from this store? Since you use the world version...
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>>9636370
>Since you use the world version...
That doesn't really have anything to do with it; I use SS every time but my browser defaults to world.taobao.com

NAYRT but the point still stands.

Btw I have also made several purchases from the lace shop above using an SS and I loved the quality each time. They have pretty nice ribbon available too.
>>
>>9636333
Yep, this is where I buy mine. It's legit. As for Ali...
>https://www.aliexpress.com/store/809836
>https://www.aliexpress.com/store/914608
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>>9634278

Wouldn't that be cancelled out by having to calculate, cut and hem circular ruffles? I'll fess up to having a lot of issues getting a nice flat hem on flared skirts, I'd rather gather rectangles than hem circular ruffles, which is why I don't use them.
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>>9636581
Once I have the pattern, it's pretty easy and I don't mind those calculations as much as trying to get even gathered rectangle ruffles. Hemming takes hardly any time if I narrow hem on my overlocker, and for ruffles I don't really use anything heavier than that if I can avoid it.
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>>9592008
I don't know whether you're still here, anon. Would I be able to print the PDF patterns for headwear on a regular domestic printer, or would those patterns still require a wide printing printer? Sorry, I'm not very tech-savvy.
>>
>>9636812
Not original anon but as far as I know things like headdresses can be printed on regular printing paper.
>>
Has anybody come across a pattern for a princess cut OP with no waist seams and a full skirt? I've been looking through OnS and haven't found any and wester pattern don't have the full skirt to support a petti.
>>
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I have more than 10 meter of tulle laying in my house, and I would like to do a bell shape petticoat, I check a few tutorial but I wonder if I can use :
-1 horsehair on the hem ( like I sawed on high fashion dress )
-2 or to do really curly hem with fishline ( like on some mini miss dresses, sorry for the reference )

I also if anyone made some petticoat themself, I would love to see pictures! I also have difficulties to understand which part of the petti gave it the bell shape ...
(sorry for the ugly paint collage )
>>
>>9638711
>>
>>9638082
Tried vintage patterns?
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>>9638082
OnS 5 has one
>>
Midori has posted some preview pics from the next OnS (book 12) - will be releasing on 16th November: https://lineblog.me/fukasawamidori/archives/1062425702.html
>>
I've spent all day working on a ONS dress and it just looks wonky. The bodice is patterned really block-y and ill-fitting so I'm going to have to go in and overhaul it.
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>>9638931
Some of these look really cute! I always do like the fall/winter OnS better than the summer ones.
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>>9638943
This is why we should make toiles first. I almost never do but I almost always regret it.
>>9638082
GosuRori vol 6, pattern 4, pattern 17. GosuRori vol 7, pattern 20. <- raglan sleeves as well.
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>>9638943
Do you mind saying which book + pattern? I want to try making something from an OnS book but am concerned about how baggy and ill-fitting the dresses look on the models in some of the pictures
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>>9638931
Thanks for sharing anon!
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>>9639145
Book 3 I believe (I have the compilation book). Maybe it's not as bad as I make it out to be but it does fit a bit like a tube and the construction with the bib and darts gives it an odd shape.
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>>9639230
Oh nooo... I just bought some fabric to use with this pattern. Can you describe what's wrong with it? Or suggest anything to improve the fit?
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>>9638713
Oh it's that easy ! thank you very much !
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>>9639230
maybe the problem is that the model seems to have a very small cup size. not sure what yours is, but most japanese paterns are made for an A or B cup, any bigger should be altered
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>>9639323
The bodice is kind of a V shape and probably needs another dart to bring the upper edge in a bit.
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>>9629526
Sorry for the late reply, I kinda forgot about asking this.
These shops are wonderful, thanks for sharing.
>>
Are there any knitting anons here? How do I change yarn colour, if the pattern requires me to slip the first stitch purlwise of every row? I'm knitting 1x1 rib knit, if that makes a difference?

>pattern link: https://sites.google.com/site/dovilesknittingcrochetpatterns/home/knitting/harry-potter-slytherin-scarf-screen-accurate
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>>9609142
Aw man I'm in love! Please post a coord using it pretty please, it looks lovely
>>
A bit of an odd request/question -- what's the fugliest material you have ever worked with, and how did it turn out?

A relative gifted me a rather bright floral quilting fabric. I appreciate the thought behind the gift even if the fabric isn't to my taste, but I don't really know how to deal with it. Do I pretend the sewing project is always "I'm still deciding what to make", "accidentally" lose the fabric in my stash, or attempt to actually make something out of it? Maybe I could turn it into a quilted bag and gift it back? Is that bad form if she intended it as dressmaking material?
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>>9641078
Make an apron, fawn over it on social media, never wear it.
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>>9641078
I've been gifted something similar to pic related and it's been stowed away where I can forget about it. Every now and then I try to think of ideas for around the house but I can't think of that many ideas.
Maybe a tote bag for laundry supplies? Or a new cover for the ironing board?
I feel a little bad about throwing it out since the person that gave it to me said she felt like it was just perfect for me. Old ladies that mean well.
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>>9640623
Either just change on the second stitch, or, knit the last stitch of the row before the color change in the new color.
>>
>>9641078
>>9641117
Lining fabric for a bag.
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>>9641104

I see her irl more often than online, unfortunately. She's never in my kitchen, though, so I guess I could still try that.

>>9641117
>>9641176

I'm saving these ideas as possible options. The only thing I'm hung up on is that she specifically mentioned making a dress with it, so I'm not sure about using it to make houseware. I suppose using it as bag lining counts as clothes, technically?
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>>9641287
Maybe you could layer different fabrics on top that are sheer to come up with something you'll like. But really using it the way she thought might just encourage her to buy you more obnoxious fabric.
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>>9641287
Quilting cotton isn't the right fabric for a dress anyway. Just say you didn't want to destroy it by using it for something that would be wrong for the fabric type.
>>
Would anyone mind helping contribute to a panel about the OnS books? Basically I'm looking for pictures of finished pieces that have used OnS patterns (even heavily altered!) and the numbers of the book and pattern used.
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>>9641631
have you checked on Tumblr? I remember seeing some around there, even with step by step pics.
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>>9641126
Thanks, anon! I went ahead and changed on the last stitch. I really appreciate the help.
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>>9641631
So far I've only seen one person who does that, vanilladrops, and I have permission to use her photos, which are very helpful and informative. Do you have any suggested tags I should be looking under, or can you think of anyone else you could direct me to?
>>
>>9641631
Do you only want OnS, or is GosuRori helpful too? I'm working on a couple of OnS pieces right now, but they're not close to being finished.
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>>9641750
The panel itself is on OnS, so that's mainly what I'm after, but I could probably include a sidenote about GosuRori if you wouldn't mind providing some photos!
>>
>>9641631

I follow girls who make OnS stuff, but most of them aren't really prolific. Some bloggers:

https://misscarolbelle.wordpress.com/
http://jessiedressesup.blogspot.my/search/label/otome%20no%20sewing
http://kittykanzashi.blogspot.my/search/label/otome%20no%20sewing

https://gotadebaunilha.blogspot.my/2017/06/costura-jsk-de-cogumelos-otome-no.html someone dropped this link in a handmade thread a while ago and said she speaks English. Worth a shot to send a message if you still need photos, I guess.
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>>9641611

This has been bothering me as well, but I figure if I quilted it and put a heavier backing fabric it will behave more like a heavier cotton and less like wrinkly quilting cotton. Quilting will allow me to break up the obnoxious print and mix it up with other stuff any way, seems like a nice solution.


>>9641579
>might just encourage her to buy you more obnoxious fabric

Oh cripes, I hadn't thought of that.
>>
>>9641078
I'm rather notorious for hoarding fabrics and never getting around to doing anything with them so whenever someone gifts me something unusable it's easy to have it disappear into my stash without them getting offended. My grandma once gifted me several pieces of what I think is upholstery fabric with the most godawful tacky ~oriental~ prints, and I have no idea what to do with them. The fabric is scratchy and definitely not garment quality and the prints are so ugly I wouldn't want them as cushions or anything, either. I've been using one piece as a kind of muslin for testing out bodice pattern modifications. The rest will probably end up as stuffing. Fortunately I'm pretty sure grams has already forgotten ever owning this stuff so she's not expecting me to do anything with it. She's really just unloading all her things on the one grandchild who knows how to turn on a sewing machine.

She's also given me her stash of lace, some of which is older than I am. It's clearly very cheap lace, though, scratchy polyester rather than anything antique. I have no idea what to do with it. I usually turn scraps of lace into accessories to sell but I don't think I can sell anything made with this lace to the lolita community without damaging my reputation.
>>
>>9642025
Offer to send it to someone for shipping cost? Laugh when it surfaces in a horrible ita lace monster.
>>
>>9642031
Yeah, I should probably regift it. It's a similar dilemma to people who want to get rid of the ita lace monster they bought as a newbie but don't want it associated with their accounts, though I guess I'm lucky in that I never paid for this stuff so I wouldn't be losing money either way.
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>>9641646
Just checked and we were talking about the same person. It's a pity. I'll check if I can find more,.
Anyway, here's a video with a person sewing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6JuE4gyl-Y

and she has two pieces handmade from OnS in her wardrobe. https://egl.livejournal.com/20015968.html

Good luck with your hunt, anon!
>>
>>9641941
>https://gotadebaunilha.blogspot.my/2017/06/costura-jsk-de-cogumelos-otome-no.html someone dropped this link in a handmade thread a while ago and said she speaks English. Worth a shot to send a message if you still need photos, I guess.

That's the same as "vanilladrops" on Tumblr, unfortunately.
>>
>>9643394
Thank you very much!

>>9643396
Yes, it is. She has been very helpful and I'm using a handful of her photos in my panel, but I'd like to showcase as many different uses as I can, you know?
>>
>>9636812
>If the file is small enough, then yes, you can print it on a regular home printer.
>>
I'm wonder, what's the consensus about hand making replicas of designs? Is it in poor taste or frowned upon or is it business as usual?
>>
>>9647088

If it's just for your own use then it's very easy to brush it off. Normally you just say something like "I like this design so I made a dress similar to it." For non print it's also very easy to pull up a handful of other dresses from different brands that look really similar, or change up a minor detail so it isn't a direct copy.

People mostly start getting angry if you turn it into a business, for eg making replicas directly for sale instead of for yourself.
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>>9647095
I figured as much but I wanted to be sure. I don't want to sell them or anything. I just wanted to have a replica made without having to do it myself.
>>
>>9647088
It's not like it's going to look entirely the same, some people might be bothered by it but honestly just do what you want.
People are generally more bothered by art theft of prints, not the cuts.
Otherwise we should get angry at AP for stealing the sackdress idea from Meta.

I really want to make something similar to this, as I don't like the print (do like the tartan though) but absolutely love the cut.
Don't see a problem with using that as inspiration.
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>>9617136
Pixie locks?
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>>9647088
>>9647108
>have a replica made without having to do it myself
You're not >>9646773, right? Because while making your own design "replica" isn't frowned upon, asking someone to replicate a design by an indie designer who does commissions is super trashy.

>>9647302
lol she gets this comparison a lot but no.
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>>9647088
As far as simple non-print designs go it's generally ok, e.g. look at the MM bib OPs that have been copied a hundred times, and similar ones exist from VM and IW.

When the design starts getting more specific and elaborate, copying it down to the last details starts getting a bit more iffy (e.g. Scarlet Primavera Waltz is not a print dress but it's such a clusterfuck of arranged ruffles it would be obvious if someone tried to replicate it, as opposed to a coincidence with similar designs).

>>9647326
>asking someone to replicate a design by an indie designer who does commissions is super trashy.
And of course this. Don't be a fucking dick, indie brands don't exactly have it easy. Support them or go without the dress (and getting another indie designer to undercut the first with cheaper construction and materials doesn't count).
>>
>>9647326
>>9647470

No, I'm not that guy. And I don't want anything from an indie designer being replicated. Especially not something that's a commission. I'm not a monster.
>>
>>9647326
>>9647470
So I've always wanted this dress from Kamikaze Girls - as far as I've been researching, it was never put into production and there aren't any similar dresses by indie or brand as far as I've found. Would it be bad to commission this?
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>>9647625
If no one's selling it, it's probably fine.

Is there a pattern that looks similar to the VM Mallory OP?
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>>9641287
You could also make a couple cloth shopping totes, doesn't matter much what they look like since you just throw your groceries into them.
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>>9648100

That's my backup plan. I have 2+1 yards of it, though, so that's a lot of totebags/small fabric things.
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>>9648242
could you use it to make mock ups of other clothes? then it's technically clothes, just not the kind you would wear.
>>
Any advice for converting loliable clothes into proper lolita items?
like if you found a dress or a skirt that fits the silhouette and can fit the petti properly, but you want to make it properly lolita, what would you advise?
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>>9648356
Depends on the item, that's far too vague to be helpful. There's loads of tutorials on like, converting knit tops to be cute ruffly cutsews and stuff. And as far as dresses go, I mean, it depends on what's wrong with it.
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>>9648352

Oooh. This is kind of close to making fugly clothes that I will show to her once and then never wear, but it actually has a purpose beyond just wasting my time on something I'll never use. Thanks, anon. I might just do this instead.
>>
Anyone have a tracing of a star similar in shape to this one? Or know what I should type in Google to get one? Regular ones are too sharp and not kawaii?

(I wanna add an "applique" like this to a simple skirt, I imagine I just have to cut the fabric I this shape + a small "sewing allowance", tuck the "allowance" under the star and sew it down, is this correct or am I missing something?)
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>>9648390
derp, wasnt supposed to add a question mark after kawaii
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>>9648371
You should gift her the mockups after you're done with them.
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>>9648390
What about this if you just pointed the edges?
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>>9648390
Just mocked this up in illustrator, should be close enough.
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So I'm relacing and doing some light redesigning for this Bodyline tart JSK. Messy picture but honestly, how does this look? (I still need to take apart the bow.)
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>>9649082
Is the white lace the stuff you've added? I don't care for any of the laces you've chosen, really. The big ugly cheap raschel at the neckline is a definite no. The nicer quality raschel on the straps is fine I guess, I just don't like it in any flavor. The princess seam lace needs to go out the window too, if you ask me. I'd much rather see some nice cotton cluny, or maybe some pretty chemical lace.
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>>9648390
alternatively, you could hand baste around the edge then satin stitch over the raw edges. or do some sort of iron-on bond and then do the satin stitch.
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>>9648457

That would be hilarious, she's a head shorter than me, a totally different body shape and pushing 60.

But I always meant to make a totebag and gift it back to her anyhow. I'm just holding off until (a) I make some actual clothing to show her together with the tote bag, and (b)heavens above, do you really think she'd take it as encouragement to buy me more fabric?
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>>9649635
If she has bad enough taste that she likes it, then yes. If she realizes that the fabric is a bad choice then it xould hopefully deter her from making the same bad choice again. Or at least think twice about the choice in fabric.

Gifting her clothing with the fabric is just hilarious and she would have to go through the same process as you thinking about whether or not she has to wear it out of consideration for you.
>>
I am a prime alpha male.
How do i stop the old ladies at the fabric store laughing at me when i buy fabric and sewing accessories?
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>>9650048
Just hiss at them and show your teeth like a proper alpha.

I'm not exactly alpha but I never had any problem buying textiles or yarns.
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>>9650185

Hissing at old ladies ?

Anon that seems very autistic.
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>>9650249
That was just shitposting, I think I need a break from 4chan again.

Seriously though, I've never had any problems buying fabrics or yarns. People either ignore me or ask what project it's for. It sounds extremely weird that they are laughing at you for doing exactly what they are doing.
>>
New thread here >>9650560




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