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Old thread >>1236605

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute.

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
youtu.be/w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones

>SLA&DLP
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
http://www.nanodlp.com/

>SLS
http://sintratec.com/ A SLS kit.

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc
>>
My cheap Anet A8 has a problem. While trying to calibrate the heating bed, one of the screews became stuck. Doesn't move anymore, nearly destroyed the screwhead.

So i have to drilll it out, i guess. Are there any simple hacks to make the levelling easier than those 4 screws?
>>
>>1249334
Was it needing leveling often?

I don't have the same printer, but with everything tightened down, with a bed surface that doesn't require much to pick up prints, and on a fairly vibration absorbent material I rarely ever need to level. If you are needing to do it enough for it to be a problem it could be vibrating too much.

Soak the screw in oil it may break free without the need to drill. Was the bed still warm? The wing nut will cool faster so it may have snugged up as a result so fucking with temps could also break it free.
>>
>>1249344
Nope, just here and there. It seems the srew and the aluminium have bonded together, without real force, the screw doesn't move at all.
>>
What's everyone working on this weekend?

I've been making my own cable chain. My printer is a mess when it comes to the wiring, so trying to solve the issue.
>>
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>>1249373

Finishing programming my sign. I want to start on my next project but I really should get this one finished.
>>
>>1249375

>A E S T H E T I C
>>
>>1249375
Any thoughts on how to fix the seams down the middle for your next ones?
>>
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>>1249382
Not really. Other than printing on within the 9X6 I don't see how I could except for putting a small diffuser over that area which would probably look worse. I put little nubs on the ends of the left diffusers so light wouldn't go through the seams.

My next sign is smaller and prints within the limits of the bed, so it will be seamless.
>>
>>1249403

You could try something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Cinegel-Silent-Diffusing-Material/dp/B000B7A2V4/ref=br_lf_m_dnugov8gwxsuo4c_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=photo

But I'm not sure if that would work. You'd have a hard time applying it maybe, and you'd have to experiment with where to position it in the stack you've got going (inside/outside the plastic).

We use similar stuff at work when designing our luminaires for medicine cabinets, trying to hide the hot spots of the LEDs on the strip. But we don't have seams in the acrylic (for you, it's the printed plastic) that this sheet is applied to.
>>
What's up lads. I'm assembling my CR-10 as of right now. Ready for some good old frustrations
>>
>>1249412

No that looks amazing. I'll order some and give it a shot on both the inside and out. Thanks for the tip!
>>
>>1249417

You might want to look around for some different versions and pick what you think might be appropriate; there are different grades of diffusing sheet and I just linked the first one I found. Good luck m8
>>
http://www.prusaprinters.org/original-prusa-i3-mk3-bloody-smart/
>>
I'm going to paint it soon, I've already primed it. I found this neat textured spray stuff that rustoleum makes that looks like stone, I'm going to see if that works on this. Next year I might move one of my trees I don't care about into this--I'm not sure how it will hold up with water and I'm not sure what the paint will do to the tree's health. Hopefully giving enough time to dry completely (6 months) will make it so that it both seals the layer structure to keep the pot's insides from filling with water and also keeps the paint from leaching toxins into the soil.
>>
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A friend of mine asked me to print this electrical insulator. For some reason he asked me to coat it with epoxy to be super smooth. The coating turned out pretty good i feel.
>>
>>1249375
How did you get that color gradient?
I'm assuming it's settings in arduino.
>>
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>>1249540
Yes. The only way to get that is by using the WS2812s and a uC to dictate the intensity of each RGB LED.
>>
>>1249538
p-put it in your ass desu
>>
>>1249538
It's an ass plug
>>
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>>1249516

Came out looking pretty nice. The textured paint worked really well
>>
>>1249516
>>1249565
naicu
>>
>>1249538
What epoxy did you use to coat it? Looks good.
>>
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Is polystyrene a good enough material for a 3D printer enclosure? It says its glass transition temperature is about 100ºC. Would that be enough to print ABS with a heatedbed at 90-100ºC without deforming?

I designed a goofy-looking enclosure for my 3d printer and I'm wondering if I can use it, since it's much cheaper than acrylic or polycarbonate
>>
>>1249659
>polystyrene
Vaporizes into poison gas if it gets too hot. Doubt the printer would cause this, but I wouldn't want to use it. Particle board, MDF, plastic, etc all work fine. It doesn't take much, just something you can make a box out of, doesn't really need to be an insulator.
>>
>>1249702
>Vaporizes into poison gas if it gets too hot.
Which is like hundreds of C. Polystyrene is a common 3d printing material used as a support for ABS.
>>
>>1249782
Temp depends on the polystyrene. Some will melt from a regular lighter.
>>
>>1249538
Tesla would be proud.
>>
>>1249799
wich is still hundreds of C?
>>
>>1249659
I have pretty good results with 55C° inside because I don't want to cook the motors too much.
For faster heatup I got a 10 bucks temperature controlller with two hairdryers at the sides inside the enclosure.
>>
>>1249799
Do you not understand how hot butane fires are
>>
should I purchase a Mini v2 now or wait until black friday and hope for a good sale on the Select Plus
>>
>>1249799
Dude even a regular lighter will hit like 3x the max temp of most 3d printers
>>
>>1249931
Get both.

Large prints take days, which once you get hooked is torture. Having a printer making something large while having another for small things in the meantime is the dream.
>>
>>1250044

I can only print small things... Nowhere in my home to run a printer for days. I really should run power out to my garage block, but that'd cost shitloads
>>
>>1249375

hello Mr_Glow
>>
>>1250124
egads I've been found out!
>>
I want to print a mold for a fleshlight. What kind of silicon should I use for casting?
>>
>>1250144
Smooth-on has a couple, look it up, get to know what a shore durometer is.

If you wait a week or so ill receive Smooth-on DragonSkin and can tell you more.

They are expensive tho.
>>
while looking craigslist in my area, i found someone selling a wanhao Duplicator 4S that is missing the left extruder for 75 shekels. Is this too good to be true or Is this a great deal? pic related
>>
>>1250175
Its a pretty good deal no matter whats wrong with it
You can just replace whatevers broken.
Even if you have to gut it, 75% for the frame and hardware is still ok.
Its worth the gamble, id rush over there
>>
>>1250144
>>1250145
God damn there is sometimes that these generals just make me smile
>>
Tips for manual PID tuning of hotend?
I've been having problems lately with the hotend not being about to keep temp up while printing, and I think it has to do with my PID settings. After adjusting the values I've noticed it getting better but not by much.
>>
>>1250145
I was looking in to that too. I'll keep an eye out for you.
>>
Hi dudes. I need to know sources for popular R3 mega2560 with mega16u2 board, for printer, some regular, but im confused, which one is for this one. Can you link for arduino ino files or something?
I got Marlin 1.1 sources, but are they works with that one board?
>>
>anet e10 in the mail
Did i fuck up?

First printer pls no bully
>>
I want to make a 3d food printer to make shekels off normies who want to always 1-up each other giving gifts to their partners. I was considering just using a syringe pump and a heated bed to harden the chocolate (starts off as a paste) but I don't think this would work well as the print height gets bigger. Anyone know of anywhere I can start for this? It doesn't need to be super complicated, I just want to make money off normies and live the NEET business life.
>>
>>1250285
Turn your proportional up if you're having trouble with heat loss. The Integral and Differential will not be sensitive to quick drops in temp, prop will.
>>
I had no problems understanding CLIP, but this here has me scratching my head.
http://www.sprybuild.com/about-us/
Anyone able to figure out what they are trying to say with "Wavefront Converting"
Also how long does it usually take for patent applications to become public?
>>
>>1250285
Can't you run the auto-tune loop?
>>
>>1250547
Thanks, I'll try focusing on that.
>>1250610
I tried this but I would end up back where I started, and some times it would time out.
>>
Odd question but does anyone know of a good 2D drawing software for exporting vectors?

Like Solidworks/Fusion 360 but without the 3D side. It would be used for laser cutting. Apologies just didn't know where else to ask or what to search for.
>>
>>1250860

I use Inkscape - its FOSS, and can convert bitmaps to vector art so is great for embellishing your 3d print with memes
>>
>>1250861
I've looked at it before, but does it have a mode that lets me draw shapes based on measurements. Like declaring a circle 20mm and combining it with another shape where you specify a line to be 10mm etc. It seemed sorta freehand.
>>
>>1250860
In no certain order, the vast majority can export PDFs, DXFs, SKPs, DWGs
LibreCAD
DraftSight
babaCAD
DesignSpark
Onshape

If you have an edu email,
autocad LT
Creo

Hopefully one of those helps out
>>
>>1250863

Oh I'm with you now - you could use FreeCAD.

With that you can export parametric sketches as SVG files
>>
Is RepRap outdated?
>>
>>1251027
i think not. But perhaps better software would help. All these printers just spitting plastic after all. Cant really improve that. I dont even see any real difference between all these abs/pla printers.
>>
>>1249292
How much electricity on average does a 3D printer use?
Anyone run theirs with a Kill A Watt?
>>
>>1251263

Something like 300w when it's heating up and only 50w when it's actually printing
>>
>>1250540
>just using a syringe pump and a heated bed to harden the chocolate (starts off as a paste) but I don't think this would work well as the print height gets bigger. Anyone know of anywhere I can start for this?

You'd need a cooled bed rather than a heated one.

Start with the syringe pump and a way to heat it up.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKQlys-z7SM
>>
I Livestream my prints while I'm at work but if a print goes wrong I can't stop it. Is there some sort of extension cord that I can enable or disable over the internet?
>>
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>>1251457
Octoprint... what are you using to livestream now?
>>
>>1250540

I recommend you rip apart one of those $20 "chocolate fountain" gizmos, as that will have some useful parts for melting and pushing the chocolate

>>1251289
>cooled bed
THIS. And fans. As much cooling as possible. Shit, build the main frame inside a refrigerator

3d printing chocolate will only work if you can cool it, or you'll lose all control over the shape

Sounds like a cool project though
>>
>>1251263
>Anyone run theirs with a Kill A Watt?
I'm doing that right now. Each printer maxes out at 2 amps peak (230 watts) while printing PLA.

I have three running on one breaker and the Kill A Watt has never recorded a total draw above 6 amps. I'm averaging closer to 4.5 amps (175 watts per printer).
>>
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>>1249292
Oh hey, my photos ended up in the collage
>>
>>1251289
>>1251513

Huh, makes a lot more sense this way. I was complicating the chocolate formulation in my head, but I suppose it's a lot easier and will be a lot tastier (chocolate phases/tempering is a bitch) if I do it this way with real chocolate. Means I can offer a variety of flavors too without the headache of formulating.

Added to the shopping list:
>Fans, many fans
>Possibly a custom water cooling loop around the tip of the syringe
>Cold bed, will probably look into a thin copper sheet which I can cover with parchment paper when printing (not doing that autism bread thing from the video, simply for aesthetic reasons

Honestly the fridge thing doesn't even sound that crazy. I can build a custom transparent enclosure (again for the normie customer aesthetics) and just use the fridge components to make a horribly inefficient refrigeration loop. I actually work in the glazing industry so maybe even a custom doubled glazed (smaller gap than normal) window/s is on the cards to make it not-so-bad.

>Quick tip: your typical double glazed glass unit costs less than $10 completely finished, it's the extruded PVC housing and the fitting that costs you all that money the glass unit itself is cheap as fuck.

>>1251513

Chocolate fountain teardown might be a good idea. I'll look into it. I doubt I'll be using a choco-reservoir though, large glass syringes should be sufficient and allow for flavor customisation more easily/less mess.
>>
>>1249345
Take off the bed assembly (remove front plastic brace, slide the whole lot off).

Dremel or bolt cut the stuck screw, LEAVE A LOT OF THREAD.

Grab it with some big ass pliers, twist it out. Drill them all out and redo the levelling like shown.

But those screws are sorta bullshit.
>>
Anyone have a ups backup on their printer? Curious how long a 600va ups will run my printer after an outage. I really only need it to last a few minutes most of the time which I know it can do but knowing the upper capacity would be nice.
>>
eurocuck here
got a creality, forgot to switch from 110 to 220V, heard a bang and now the unit won't turn on
checked the fuse and it's ok, should I bother with a new psu (that doesn't seem to have external damage whatsoever) or should I look other solutions?
>>
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>>1251653

The fuse is just there to keep wires from catching fire in case of a short, so it wouldn't blow, but you may have killed several other components by doing so. You could test your controller with a different PSU, if it's dead it won't kill the second PSU and you can replace it with a ramps, rumba, melzi or whatever.

I wish I actually knew how switching mode PSUs worked.
>>
>>1251653
Pretty sure fuses only protect against overcurrent. It won't stop too high voltage from frying stuff.
>>
>>1251971
high voltages results in high currents
>>
>>1251973

When the printer starts up only the microcontrolled stuff is actually pulling any, the heaters are controlled by mosfets, so it's not enough current to blow a fuse
>>
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>>1251684
>>1251971
>>1251973
>>1251978

The fuse in the plug blew.
Yesterday i only checked the one on the psu board.. The real culprit went completely unnoticed due to stress and rage.
Oh and I noticed it after installing the new psu bought from the local chinks, guess I'll have a spare one just in case
>>
>>1251985
CHINKED
>>
What is the most overbuilt 3d printer machine /3dpg/ ever seen?

Pic related is not it, but it's close. The winner was some CNC milling machine with an extruder mounted to it.
>>
>>1251971
Fuses also have a voltage rating as well so if your Vin exceeds the fuses limits then it can still short between the wires. Its why you can't put an automotive fuse in your microwave circuit.
>>
>>1252041
The one of that dude here who used precision linear stages.
>>
>get the anycubic kossel as a first printer
>build it, do some rudimentary bed calibration
>print benchy, really good result
>try to print something very long but not very wide
>half of the print gets screwed up and i can never get it to stick
>the other side of the bed is pristine and level
>the other side has a big gradual indentation of about 0.2mm depth, enough to fuck with the prints
>literally spend 5 hours trying to fuck with the configuration settings, changing the radius, endstops, angular deviation.
>fuck with http://escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizarddelta.php for aeons
>give up, order a autolevel probe and for the time being only print stuff on the level side of the bed

any people who are looking to get a 3d printer. for the love of god buy one with an autolevel probe or one that supports auto level probes. you will save so much time and mental health
>>
Covered my 3d printer with a garbage bag to make a "heated chamber" for printing ABS.

It was going well until the print ended. I removed the "lid" and the parts warped pretty much instantly.

Am I supposed to let it cool slowly?
>>
I'm absolutely at my wits end. I have tried everything to get this hunk of wood and wires to print and every time this thing keeps giving me more and more fuckups.

I have an a8. I have leveled it tens of times, replaced the head, used cura and slic3r to change the settings of the print but nothing seems to change anything.

its an .3 head with a 1.75 pla filament and it has started to leak from a hole in the side. When ever it prints it just puts down thin wires that make the end product look like it is made of string but yet somehow holds together. best guess is that it has something to do with the hole so ill try and tape that shit up with thermal tape. anyone have any similar problems please for the love of god help. this thing has been driving me up the god damn wall for over a month now.
>>
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>>1252083
as I send the last post a glob fell onto the print and the printer shoved it off the base. Im going to take a walk but holyshit please I beg of you anons help me I cant take this shit
>>
>>1252083
You're hot end is bolted in right? As the nut on it looks low.

What you using to level the bed with?

You're melting the fuck out of that blower on the hot end, thats not helping.
>>
>>1252089

I'm using a piece of paper and getting it low enough to where the paper can just about slide through.

The head I screwed up higher because I couldn't get the filiment into the head as it kept getting stuck.

I try to not melt the blower but that shit is so close it almost touches the head and I can't print a better one as I can't print shit
>>
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>>1252095
Aye, I cut my blower right back. That thing is crappily done. I cut mine down on the nose like so ;
>>
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>>1252095
And the underside is like so
>>
>>1252098

>>1252100

ThabkI'll try to match what you did to it.
>>
>>1252109
Oh and I'm using the instructions / software / settings that came with my A8. Not fiddled with anything yet.
>>
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>>1252083
>>1252086

Lol, have fun. Getting your first printer working half decently is fun

Pic related, my first weeks results with a chinkshit i3 clone
>>
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I'm putting my CR-10 through the ultimate torture test. Currently printing this right now.
>>
>>1252054
Man that thing is sexy. He hasn't posted in a while, I wonder how it's been working for him.
>>
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>>1249292
>>1241788
What printer can I get in the $400-$600 range?
I want good out-of-the-box results. I already own an ok, but small printer.

Could I find a used lulzbot mini for that price?
Buy a Prusa i3? I hear the wait is long, though...
>>
>>1252086

Your problem is that the nozzle and heatbreak aren't tightened up against eachother properly and are leaking everywhere, this also causes the obvious underextrusion seen in >>1252086 where the lines are too thin and don't mesh with eachother. What you need to do is not very fun, but...

1. Take out the extruder
2. Heat it up with a heatgun to soften the plastic and unscrew the heater block from the heatbreak etc. and disassemble the whole thing
3. Heat up every part a bit and try to scrape or peel off the plastic gunk that has accumulated untill you're left with clean parts
4. Reassemble the hotend such that the heater block doesn't touch the plastic fan shroud like in >>1252083. The heater block should be screwed in such a way that when you thread the nozzle in, it should tightly butt up against the heatbreak inside, but still have a bit of thread left on the outside.
5. Heat up the hotend to 250C
6. Grip the heater block with a spanner and tighten the nozzle (what you mentioned as "head") with a wrench or another spanner while the hotend is hot.

This is standard procedure when assembling a hotend and it is done to make sure the nozzle is screwed in tight. When the hotend heats up it expands a little, so the thread between the heatbreak and nozzle will get looser and can start leaking. If you only tightened it while cold when replacing the nozzle then you're gonna have problems.
>>
>>1252080
>Am I supposed to let it cool slowly?
Yes.
>>
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>>1252339

I think that did the trick. I woke up in the middle of the night with the printer stopped and the bed at 40ºC. I thought something had gone wrong, but it actually finished the print and the ABS part dettached itself from the bed as it cooled down. It doesn't look like it warped at all but I'll have to print other parts to see if waiting is all I need to do
>>
>>1251489
An iPhone zip tied to the top rail of my printer running twitch
>>
>>1252482

that is the epitome of "nigger-rigging"
>>
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>>1252295
>>
>>1252322
>>1252486
Get a Creality CR-10, it comes as a kit but really it just means 10 minutes of screwing and plugging things in.

Pic related, I printed some threads out
>>
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>>1252488
forgot pic
>>
>>1252490
>>1252488
>>1252486

Looks pretty good. Hows the fit? Seems like there are a lot of clones on the market atm of the CR-10. Might get some of that chinkshit to try out.
>>
>>1252560
It fits so snug that it's nearly air tight. From some test prints, I've determined that the tolerance for the CR-10 is .25mm so you have to take that into consideration when designing stuff.
>>
>>1249659
Tg is only when the material stops being like glass (hence the name) You have to go a lot higher than that if you are worried about it sagging.
So you should be good to go on that
>>
>>1252295
>>1252486
>>1252490
what layer height and what material did you print this in?
>>
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>>1252560
The CR-10 is about the best printer you can get for that price range without buying something used.
>>
>>1252711
where is this design from?
>>
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My friend had me print them out this mask for Halloween. I think he said it was for some sort of suit, like a masquerade party.
>>
>>1253042

ok, "unicorn horns", "strange fungus", and "candlesticks" I'm fine with

but your "friend" is a degenarate
>>
>>1253048
Just to be clear this is not the same person.
>>
>>1253042
Furries have a legitimate mental disorder.
>>
>>1252857
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150
>>
>>1252083
I skipped the 'box' supplied with the SD card. Looks like that's what you're printing. I started with a 2x2x2 calibration cube.

The leakage is from not having screwed on the nozzle right.
Consider this:
https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/nozzle
Or the post our kind anon posted here.

As for bed leveling (the reason you get it laying down string)I recommend you to ignore the paper methods. Instead start your print and observe how smooshed the plastic is.
I kept a gcode file that just traces a box very slowly. So I can adjust the bed while printing to get the bed level.
Now I have a sensor so I don't do that anymore but for me the paper method wasn't giving me consistent results. Not sure why really.
>>
Does anyone in here use underbed piezo sensors for homing/bed auto leveling?
>>
Would UTP cables be okay for wiring motors?
>>
>>1253354
How big are your motors? Probably not, .5 amps for 24g. Double the wires for .92, double them again for 1.5amps if you use the whole 4 pairs. That's something, but you may as well use something spec'd for it to begin with.
>>
>>1253354
I wouldn't. Got an ATX power supply to donate some wire?
>>
>>1253360
I have plenty but they are way short, i want to save the trouble of splicing.

>>1253358
The motors i want to wire are kh42jm2b036, cant find anything specific on these but a similar looking motor is rated for 1.4A, and they are small.
My current printer have 1.5A extruder motors (they are long) that are wired with a single 26AWG (2.2A)wires.
UTP is 24AWG (3.5A), shouldnt this be fine then?

Cheers
>>
>>1253348
Never heard of anyone doing that. How would that work? Glue it under the bed, triggers when the nozzle touches the bed on that spot?
>>
>>1253474
>Never heard of anyone doing that. How would that work? Glue it under the bed, triggers when the nozzle touches the bed on that spot?

The sensor goes between the bed and a hard place

It triggers when the nozzle touches anywhere on the bed
>>
>>1253546

Wouldn't that deform the nozzle in the long run?
>>
>>1253259
thanks a bunch anon!
>>
>>1253735
You don't have to slam it in the bed as it just nerds to make contact. If you lower it gently you won't degrade the nozzle to any significant extent.
>>
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Guys my aluminum build plate has a bunch of scratches in it. Barely noticeable when I run my fingers across the plate but clearly visible. Any effect on print quality or should I sand the plate down? I use a glue stick anyway so I guess the small scratches wont do any harm right?
>>
>>1253955

It increases build plate adhesion.

>>1253735
Of course not, it's made of brass and the piezo elements take much less force to generate a signal than it takes to flex the gantry.
>>
Hey it's the anon who is looking into making $¥€£ from normies by starting a 3D chocolate printing business. I decided to get chinked and ordered an American A8 as a base for my choco-empire. I am going to run some normal PLA prints once I have it assembled to ensure it can actually print without major issues, I imagine troubleshooting it with chocolate will be difficult to say the least. I'm also going to use the base printer to make an assembly for my syringe pump which will replace the extruder eventually.

Has anyone has experience with the Anet? Seems like there is a lot of shill videos on YouTube but overall seems like with a few safety upgrades it's a pretty acceptable printer.

I'm currently working on a solution for a cooled bed/extra nozzle cooling/syringe heater.
>>
>>1254023
I've got one; you might want to save yourself some heartache and immediately throw away the frame (there's an MDF replacement on Ebay that I got that's worked out for me, a couple of options for metal frames now too). The stock heat bed connection's sort of iffy too, look into a cable chain. Board connections are prone to burning out, but that probably won't be a problem if you're keeping things low temp. Can't think of any major issues other than those ATM. How are you planning on making things food safe?
>>
>>1253955
sanding it down may make the bed unlevel in small spots. Scratches just increase adhesion.
Slap some tape on if you need insane 0 layer quality.
>>
>>1253955
bit of glass on top, no problem.
>>
>>1254033
>Foodsafe
The chocolate syringe pump will be food-safe syringes with nozzles/needles attached to the end. There will be no contact between the food and any plastics/non-foodsafe metals throughout the entire process. Each syringe of chocolate will be made up in the kitchen with a use-by date stamped on it.

I'm not going to use any of the current extruder setup, just the rails.

The bed will be glass for easy cleaning etc. Foodsafe acetate possibly used for an adhesion base instead of printing direct onto glass.
>God damn extruder fan
Why is the extruder fan only held on with two screws? This seems really fucking unstable and shaky. Any issues with this? Several times throughout building the frame I thought I had been chinked but it's actually nicer than I expected. Gonna stick with the shitty acrylic for now as it seems tight and solid enough for what I need.
>>
>>1254102
Makerbot crew tried this when they were first starting out. They gave up, but their work is still open source from way back when.

google "frostruder"
>>
http://www.3ders.org/articles/20171003-apple-acquires-patent-for-ar-compatible-3d-printing-system.html
>>
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>>1249292
So my university put me in charge of pic related. Basically, a fuckhuge 3D printer costing 30K.

http://www.tractus3d.com/3dprinterslarge/

Except this thing is, according to last year's team, a heaping pile of shit that they desperately tried to throw into the pond next to our building.
Heater cartridge was fucked, buildplate is chipped, motherboard has been replaced a few times now.
I know how to run an Ultimaker (they've got like ten of those here), I know how to assemble a Prusa, but where do I start getting this thing operational and running flawlessly, without just flat out replacing everything?
>>
>>1252482
10/10 setup right there.

>>1254120
On a secondary note: I've already designed some intake trumpets for an internal combustion engine. I'm buying an '80s aircooled Japanese bike that should get up to 130 degrees celsius/270F max.

What material could I use to print those?
>>
>>1254120
‣square the frame up
‣make sure the steppers aren't water damaged
‣cover build plate with glass
‣replace the extruder (pretty cheap actually)
‣properly configure the software
‣tune it up

did I miss anything? it's basically identical to a hex printer, just scaled up and probably has more expensive high torque steppers
>>
>>1254135
>Frame
The thing seems solid, and the frame has actually not given us any problems.
>Steppers water damaged
How? We haven't thrown it into the pond. Yet.
>Build plate
Already covered in glass. They had a small issue with overadhesion last year and ripped a few shards of glass off. And they rammed the glass plate with the nozzle (because the Z axis was badly adjusted), probably shouldn't have done that.
>Replace extruder
Already functioning fine from my tests. Actually doesn't bite into the filament like the Ultimakers do - they tend to dig into the filament we use and get it stuck.
>Tuning and configuration
That's next on my to-do list.
>>
>>1254102
Just run your printer nice & slow if you're using acrylic (20-30 mm/s). Acrylic cracks easily, and microfractures become macro in the blink of an eye.
>>
>>1251457
Smart power socket
>>
>>1254143

So, to summarize, you have a perfectly functional printer that hasn't been calibrated

I wonder what the next step could be?

[spoiler]But on a serious note, without any explanation of issues with the printer, how do you expect us to diagnose it? [/spoiler]
>>
Would it be beneficial for a CR10 to put the extruder in the middle of the x axis to reduce the length of the bowden?
>>
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Holy shit

That was close
>>
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New sign design complete. The acrylic backer is on it's way. I'm going to document this one so people can have an easy to follow guide on how to 3D print and assemble their own "neon" sign.
>>
>>1252679
.1mm and PLA
>>
I've been spending a lot of time in my 3dprinter room and I'm feeling my throat is getting annoyed. I'll get an enclosure of soon but I'm just wondering what it is I'm really watching out for. Basically if the worst is just irritation I don't deem it worth it to move myself but if it's potentially permanently damaging to me I'm a bit worried.
>>
>>1254348
depends on what you're printing with. If you're printing in ABS then there's definitely toxic fumes. All thermoplastic printers give off an invisible cloud of microscopic particles. These particles are so tiny they can't be air filtered out and are small enough to pass the blood brain barrier when inhaled. We don't know what the health effects of these micro particles are.
>>
>>1254366
Scary.
So what I should do is to completely seal my printer and then blow it out to the outside before opening it for every print?
What kind of measures do people normally have?
>>
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I have some warping when printing even relatively small parts (this piece was just 6cm across) on my heated bed (60 degrees).
It's always towards the same corner regardless of what part i print.
I'm not sure what to do about this. It's facing a door that's not super well isolated but I don't see that influencing the print because it happened during summer too and ambient inside was cooler than ambient outside.

It's a PCB heated aluminum bed. And just by touch it seems to be heated evenly.
What's the best way to remindy this?
>>
>>1254204
Not exactly, we've been chasing gremlins all over the machine ever since I got it. Most of my time has been spent waiting for a new heater cartridge, so that kinda spoils any fine-tuning.

I don't expect you to solve any problems, it's 4chan after all. I'll be posting more once I get her up and running, probably tomorrow if time allows.

[Spoiler] I'm probably just bragging about getting a shiny new expensive toy, probably the biggest printer ITT, and having no idea what I'm doing. [/Spoiler]
>>
>>1254402
If you think it's caused by temperature, buy a temperature laser thingy. Your fingers aren't accurate enough. Could be other factors though, like a buildplate that isn't clean, level, or doesn't have a good surface.

I've solved warping adhesion issues by putting a layer of cheap hairspray onto the (glass) buildplate
>>
>>1254366
What you said is literally not true, certainly not true in 3d printing. (Compounding it holds true).
>t. A guy who works in the plastics industry.
>>1254392
What you need to be aware of is good ventilation. If you're hotboxing your room then yeah it's bad for your health long term. Most plastics give off volatile organics e.g. formaldehyde when heated. Thankfully the low volume of heated plastic means you're not creating that much volatile content, but you should have a desk fan to disperse the volatiles and an open window to afford for good ventilation. If you do this the concentration of volatiles should not reach unsafe levels as defined by your local safety authority's guidelines.
>>
>>1254402

Put a large cardboard box over it when it is printing and see if that helps. If that solves it you know its environment, if not its likely the machine.
>>
>>1254454
Temperature laser thingies are not accurate either.
>>
http://ulchemicalsafety.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Doc-7-Emory-Report-1-3D-Printing-Health-Effects-of-Ultrafine-Particulate-Emissions.pdf
http://pubs.acs.org/doi/pdf/10.1021/acs.est.5b04983
>These graphs show how much ultra-fine particles are emitted by these different filaments:
>>1254465
I can't say what health effects ultra fine particles have IF any at all. But to be on the safe side you really should work in a ventilated area or use a duct vent.
>>
Warning 3DHubs is shitting the bed, and fucking over their hubs.

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/747slw/3dhubs_is_dead/
https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/getting-out-hand-just-stop-automatic-selection
https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/terrible-auto-hub-selection
>>
What 3D-printable material can withstand 150 degrees Celsius? Looking to make my own intake manifold.
>>
>>1254587
Ultem 1010
http://usglobalimages.stratasys.com/Main/Files/Material_Spec_Sheets/MSS_FDM_ULTEM1010.pdf

https://www.3dxtech.com/ultem-1010-3d-printing-filament/

But yeah damn hard to print with, going to need an actively heated chamber, it shrinks worse then ABS does with cool air/ area's while printing.
>>
>>1254587
PEEK can work up to 250C, but it needs an inert atmosphere.
>>
>>1254582
Diesel engines spit out similar small particles by the tons daily. While those particles created in 3D printing can be concentrated where you print, the particles from diesel engines are more "diluted" they are basicly everywhere and you inhale it constantly.
>>
>>1254582
VOC's aren't particles you prize melon. All of the things listed in your graph are highly volatile organics that become literally gaseous due to heating. Even 100ug/min with a desk fan and an open window would mean none of the things listed would be above approved industrial limits.
>>
i design electronics for fun and would like to buy a printer to make enclosures for them. i'll spend up to $2k, more for a good reason, but ideally as little as possible for good quality. i'd prefer kits to prebuilt but whatever. what properties can i expect to get in this range? specifically:
>surface roughness (incl finishing)
>min wall thickness
>dimensional tolerances (on ex a 4x4x2" part)

if i can easily accomplish 300uin/65mil/30mil that'd be great but i have no clue what's reasonable.
>>
>>1254658
What are they then? Waves? Imaginary?
Ya big goof!
>>
>>1254702
>2k
Ultimaker 2+ or original prusa i3
>>
>>1254702
If you want to buy a printer then buy one. Don't make up reasons to convince yourself, it's unrealistic that you would spend 2k on ready made project boxes in your life unless you were mass producing in which case it's still dumb.
3D printing is a hobby and occasionally for companies to show of pretending they use it for rapid propping, it has never been used for anything actually useful.
If you want a printer buy one. There are plenty of mods, upgrades, alterations to improve pretty much any printer.

There are as many printers as there are opinions about which are good or not, good luck thinking opinions mean anything.
>>
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>>1254708

Now now, calm down Skeeter, he aint hurtin' nobody
>>
>>1254714
it's a frivolous expense. i'm just explaining my use case and asking what i can get in a technical sense with my budget. from what minor research i've done it doesn't seem like the community in general care to quantify tolerances or capabilities though so i don't know if those numbers are even out there.
>>
>>1254702
It's complicated. Dimensional tolerances on the outside of the part can be, and usually are, around 50 microns, but then
>corners will be worse
>Z lift areas, where the nozzle moves between layers, will be worse
>inside corners, especially holes, will be way worse, 2.9mm hole typically needs to be designed 3.3 or more
>accuracy depends on print speed, the specific plastic, and a bunch of other shit
>pretty much the same for surface finish but your parts will typically have 1 decent surface, the bed side, and none of the surfaces are particularly pretty
Also buying a more expensive printer won't really get you all that much better accuracy, learning the ins and outs of how printers work and every possible thing that can fuck your print up will.
>>
>>1249292
Anyone here can print me a pretty solid Pepe? Using it to cast aluminum hood ornaments. I will make it worth your time if you can do a half assed descent job or i can smooth it with a dremel.
>>
>>1249373
better buy injection molded ones; they are much more reliable
>>
>>1254120

Tell them it's irreparably broken then "dispose of it" for them
>>
>>1254794
I would just because it would be funny, but shipping from brazil would be pretty expensive
>>
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>>1254702

Git pic related. A pair, since you can spend up to $2k, and laser cut enclosures for it.

If you've seen a regular 0.4mm nozzle print, you've seen them all. People tend to use larger nozzles (which give a thicker minimum wall thickness) because they want to print really fast. 0.4mm walls are very crumbly, 2.0, 2.4 or other multiples of 0.4mm should be good for enclosures.

They tend to be very precise as far as moving a certain amount of mm's in any direction, but the holes will always be a little smaller because of overextrusion/contraction (like 0.4mm less), but in a predictable way, so you compensate for that in design.

You should be able to get really close to those dimensions with a printer like this.
>>
>>1254465
agreed
>t. Another guy who works in the plastics industry
>>
>>1251562
That's nice. Means you could run them off battery pretty easy.
>>
>>1252322
>What printer can I get in the $400-$600 range?

The monoprice printer was recently on sale, but even at $300 it seems like a great deal. Plus you can do a 2 or 3 mods to it to make it even better, getting into your 400 to 600 range. The comments talk about the mods.

https://slickdeals.net/f/10601560-monoprice-maker-select-3d-v2-printer-254-99-free-shipping-via-monoprice-valid-9-27-only?src=SiteSearch
>>
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>>1254944
>Means you could run them off battery pretty easy.
I've considered buying a UPS for them, but I'm not convinced it's worth the money right now.
>>
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I'm designing a 3D printer, /diy/.

For the 4th or 5th time, but I think now I have enough experience assembling them to know more or less how it goes.

Which way is better to have the z-bearings? Only one long, two long or two short bearings?

The heated bed (200x200) holder is 1/8" aluminum. Should I go with 3/16"?
>>
>>1254584
Nasty. Thanks anon.
>>
You now remember Tiko3d being smug faggots, and then crashing and burning like the idiots they were. Feels good
>>
>>1254702
I don't think FDM 3D printed parts are fit for sale. The finish is just unattractive. But for prototyping it's fine. I just feel like adding that. I'm really opposed the finish on these parts.

Imo the prusa is the best choice. While I haven't tested it the MK3 has many new convenience features (compared to mk2) I desire and I like prusa as they actually further FDM printers in general. So you may consider that a bias of course.
You'll find that Prusa has shining reviews from everywhere though.
The biggest thing I find lacking is native network enabled printing. Which isn't hard to remedy but it's not available out of the box. It leads to an additional walk to the printer.
>>
>>1255250
>The biggest thing I find lacking is native network enabled printing
This. I'd be willing to bet it's included in the MK4, when that arrives

>>1254702
$10 for a Pi Zero, and throw Octoprint on it. Maybe $15 for the camera, then print your own case for it

Definitely, worth the additional cost, if only for the camera to view prints in progress
>>
https://www.docdroid.net/2WkAMoA/fd3d-jun-8-2017.pdf

Enjoy buttplugs, functional design for 3D printing 3rd edition
>>
>>1255306
What did he mean by this?
>>
>>1255309
I mean enjoy the book, some will find it useful and to help them with the design process of their models, other will find it more of a refresher and just repeating
>>
>>1255310
I guess i appreciate the thought, but the editing and the form factor of the book is cancer.
>3rd edition
Ill have nightmares thinking how the 1st edition looked.
>>
>>1255326

True that. Whoever wrote that book needs to learn how to use LaTeX
>>
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>>1255230

What do you think?
>>
I know nothing about 3d printing. Is an .stl file usable to print with?
>>
>>1255374
yes
>>
>>1255374
Yes, you have to slice it first for your particular printer though
>>
>>1255288
Mk3 has a spot in the control box for a pi zero, and has easy integration
>>
>>1255230
Why not all long bearings? No reason not to since you're not saving space anyway. You already lost the space to the other long bearings.
>>
>>1254911
He might as well just save for a Form 2. Those DLP SLA printers have very limited printing materials and limited volume. Not to mention all UV cured resin is UV sensitive and will become brittle in UV light (sun) unless you coat it in a UV protective coating. Not what I'd call ready for production. FDM or SLS is better desu
>>
>>1254465
https://phys.org/news/2013-07-3d-printers-shown-emit-potentially.html#jCp
>>
>>1254794
where you from anon?
>>
>>1255505
What are you talking about, buddy?
>>
>>1255514
>our reasearch lab was up for funding, so we did a study: the study
tl;dr don't huff molten plastic in a broom closet
>>
>>1254794
What scale and print layer height?

Do you already have the model file or is that also what you need done?

Feel free to send me specifics.

D-1g54x1hg343eel9ufth@maildrop.cc
>>
>>1255373
better buy a preassembled one or a kit
>>
>>1255373
What's the frame going to be? Whole thing relies on the frame to be sturdy. Also what is the belt/motor configuration?
>>
is there any way in slic3r to make processes
>>
>>1256050
elaborate please
>>
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trying to emulate an axial bearing for 3DOF robot arm

i hate how fdm printers have shit tolerances
>>
>>1251564
does it work
>>
>>1255818

Frame is going to be either 6mm plywood or aluminum-composite (same as Ultimaker 2).

Belt/motor configuration is the same as Makerbot's, which I believe will be more reliable than a corexy machine and cheaper to implement than a Ultimaker-style gantry

>>1255815
Why would I do this if I'm designing the printer? I intend to turn this into a commercial kit
>>
>>1256160
>I intend to turn this into a commercial kit
Don't. You cant match chinese cheapness and you will get into a whole lot of pain.
>>
>>1256160
>>1256161

So much this. You missed the boat, and customer support is a bitch

And even if your printer is ground-breakingly simple and reliable, the chinks will copy it immediately and price you out
>>
>>1256161

I'm not doing this in the US. Even if I was, I still believe there is a market for local-made 3d printer kits, or else no one would buy Prusa's "original i3".

I'll use chinese components and have the frame milled/laser cut locally, like everyone else is doing.

It actually costs 30% less to produce a Replicator clone locally than it does to import from China.
>>
>>1256167
Yeah, until you actually import enough to have to pay taxes to import and also until you rpoduce enough to have to pay taxes for sale and business overall. Many people have tried that before you and horribly failed. And I am also not US, I'm Eurozone. That changes nothing at all.
The only reason that Prusa sold is because he was the first big name in a time in which the chink production complex hadn't totally fired up yet. Stop yourself before you hurt yourself friend.
>>
>>1255514
>linking to the phys.org news website and not the original research paper

absolutely plebian tier
>>
>>1256134
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcddlK36OVs
>>
>>1256168
>Yeah, until you actually import enough to have to pay taxes to import and also until you rpoduce enough to have to pay taxes for sale and business overall. Many people have tried that before you and horribly failed. And I am also not US, I'm Eurozone. That changes nothing at all.

It's a good thing I'm not in the Eurozone either or else I'd be cucked by taxes too. As long as I have 0 employees, everything should be fine.
>>
>>1256242
It's your money and time you'll be wasting. The best teacher is experience after all.
>>
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>>1256050
>>1256217
You can't make processes as in Simplify3D. But you can achieve the same results in Slic3r.
I made you this tutorial. It took me almost 2 hours in Paint. so, I hope it helps.
.
>>
>>1256298

neato
>>
>>1256252
>The best teacher is experience after all.

true, but it's immensely beneficial to have an experienced, knowledgeable nice and articulate guy that you can talk to when you hit a brick wall. and then, knowing how to listen is what you need most.

i say "nice and articulate" guy because so many people who know what you want to know either won't tell you or can't tell you. how to teach is something that ironically cannot be taught. some people simply have the ability to look at you and see what you are doing wrong and can guide you to doing it right. the rest of them just say "don't do it like that".
>>
>>1256344
What I'm telling you to do is not do it at all. There is no competing with China in this race.
>>
>>1256354

Not competing with china, but with other local manufacturers who just happen to be /diy/-type guys
>>
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To put it in perspective, this is what my competition looks like. Obviously people are going to stop buying kits like this because of Anet, but the enclosed-printer kits are a lot bulkier and people avoid buying them from China.
>>
>>1256388

But the audience for your product has access to AliExpress, so you will be competing with china anyway
>>
Hello /3dpg/, I'm planning on buying a 3D printer with my roommates but there's some things we'd like to know before it.

We'd like to use it mainly to print figures and props to then paint and ready their looks, so for now my main concern is how hard is it to grab a random 3D model from somewhere and then prepare it for 3D printing, both as a one-time printing and separate pieces to build later. Not modeling from 0, but grabbing a model, put it in a pose and then print it.We'd like something like pic related (left) altho I'm pretty sure that's either a professional printer or a model that has been cleaned after printing it, but we definetly want to avoid something like in the right.

We don't need a big explanation of how to do it, just if it's fairly easy for the average Joe to do it. I have a bit of experience in 3D Max if that helps.
As for the printer itself, we haven't decided yet but we're looking at the Prusia i3 or the BQ Hephestos. Our budget is 550€ top.
>>
>>1256395

Then why manufacture anything, since there is a china-made version of it?

>>1256431
If you know 3D Max then you can bone the model and pose it any way you like, then export it to STL and open in a slicer (like Simplify 3D). Models like that are usually not for free, you have buy them.

I'd recommend a closed printer, since it's much easier to sand/prime/paint ABS than PLA
>>
>>1256431
Seconding something with a heated bed and printing in ABS, you can smooth small prints with acetone vapor and big prints with sandpaper

Make an enclosure out of a cardboard box too
>>
Up till now I've kept my printer sitting on my desk. I'd like an stand alone enclosure. Something like a small table with lower shelf/drawer that I can keep tools and filament in, and on the top a plexiglass/acrylic enclosure. Maybe another section/box sitting on top with spools of filament on bearings an a tiny hole for the filament to feed down to the printer.

I'd love to give this whole thing caster wheels so I can easily move it out of the way when not in use. Would giving it wheels have any effect on the print quality? I'm afraid it'll move and shake on it's own while printing and I'm not sure if that'll help or hurt print quality.
>>
>>1256505
Why not make a base with wheels that can be removed during printing time?
>>
>>1256534
cause I'm too lazy to change out wheels every time I wanna start/stop a print
plus I'm not sure but I think allowing it to move would have a dampening effect on any vibrations it makes while printing, but I'm not 100% sure about it.
>>
>>1256569

Allowing it to move may have negative effects - even if your print goes fine, having a large machine rolling around the room can cause damage

Maybe use scaffolding wheels - the large kind with brakes. Then it will remain steady, and be easily moveable
>>
>>1254582
From what I recall printing with PLA on average creates the same size and amount of particles as cooking with olive oil.
>>
I did it, /3dpg/, I finally set my select mini up and had it spit something out.

Am I part of the bad boys club now?
>>
>>1256482
>Models like that are usually not for free, you have buy them.
I meant something like grabbing a model from a videogame or a SFM model from any of the multiple online pages, pose it and then convert it to a viable printable model.

>>1256490
>>1256482
>I'd recommend a closed printer, since it's much easier to sand/prime/paint ABS than PLA

Something like XYZprinting Da Vinci pro 1.0 or better to still go for a Prusia or Hephestos and make a box myself?

Also I really like the results with Acetone vapor but it rounds some things to much. Is that fixed by just not exposing it to the vapor so much?
>>
>>1256730

If thats your first print, good work m8
>>
>>1256732

Da Vinci is good, but it uses proprietary filament. If you're ok with it (or with building a filament-count-resetter), go for it.
>>
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What do you guys think of the zesty nimble? have everything else planned out for a big fast 3d printer but i really don't want to use bowden I wonder if this is the best option? Uses a flex shaft to power the extruder to a 30:1 gear ratio. https://zesty.tech/
>>
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>>1256730
Benchies are for faggots, we test print cocks around here
>>
>>1256773
Da Vincis printers are trash for the price regardless of filament, fuck you on?
>>
>>1256783
No point for regular filament but might be good for flex filament
>>
What's that 3D printer called where you scan in an image of a supermodel and it prints her
>>
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>>1256783

Huh, looks like an SLA-printed Flex3Drive...
>>
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>>1256150
>does it work
Of course it does. The 30lb spring shoots Nerf darts at 175fps average. The 34lb spring shoots Nerf darts at 195fps average.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150

I stock 8 hardware kits every weekend for those that want to print their own. I also sell them assembled, or as a build-it-yourself kit.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/CaptainSlug/
>>
Hey, I'm the happy owner if a boxe frame i3 but I'm having issues: when I built it, I got 8mm rods but not the chrome plated ones and chink lm8uus. The issue is that they are making small marks on the rods and whenever I'm hitting between 30 to 45 mm/s, they vibrate like hell.
I'm a poor fag so I don't want to change my rods but I'm changing my bearings, which deteriorate print quality and I'm thinking about the igus polymer ones. What do you peeps think ?
>>
Whats best coat for glass on hotbed?? I try hairspray, it works but not well enough. Some corner always stick out and fukcup.
I tried acetone but it suck balz.
I got resistors under aluminium 6mm bed.
>>
>>1257400
For PLA or ABS?
For PLA, I use paper glue and for ABS, I add a small layer of ABS-acetone mix, as it sticks better in glue than on plain glass
>>
>>1256895

They're well built, closed, kind of reliable, etc.

>>1257347
Try the graphite-coated bronze bushings before, they're much cheaper. Print an adapter for them and see how much of the noise goes away.

Also, even before that, try removing the original grease from them with a solvent like kerosene and packing them full of superlube grease
>>
>>1257400

What heated bed is this? What size is it?
>>
>>1257428
I've packed them up already with lithium grease and they have been feed oil (sewing machine oil) before. They haven't seized and are smooth, but at certain speed, they go nuts (thus, so do I)
>>
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How do you setup the heatbed configuration in marlin?

My printer is 12V and everyrthing is ready except the heating pad. II have a 24V silicon heater and I want to use it. I know I will get 1/4 of the heating power, I just want to use it until I get a 240V heater to connect to an SSR and mains voltage.

What arduino code should I change to temporarily use the 12V output to heat the silicon heater?
>>
>>1256730
Very well done. Now print a "unicorn horn", as big as you can.
>>
>>1249292
My 3D printing hobby almost offed me
>Be working on printer
>Drink fancy sparkling water
>glass bottle
>Just so happens that I store my acetone the same glass bottle that I finished off a while ago
>Set down fresh bottle next to acetone bottle
>Get thirsty
>Grab acetone bottle
>Unscrew lid
>Bring it up to my lips
>inhale a little
>oh fuck oh fuck my nose
>realize I was about to kill myself
>call myself a dumbass and carry on
rate my stupidity /3dpg/
>>
>>1257780
Lab Safety 101: Label all your containers and fluids
>>
>>1257780
That's the kind of shit that could potentially get someone else killed. Decant to a labeled wash bottle; easy to label, easy to use.
>>
>>1257785
>>1257794
It is labeled too. I just blindly grabbed for a bottle and it felt like the one I just sat down
>>
>>1257780

>putting dangerous chemicals in old drinks containers
They make PSAs about dumb shits like that, you idiot. 9/10
>>
>>1257780
Why are you using an old acetone bottle to drink out of?
>>
>>1257859
It makes me feel like an athlete when I squeeze water from 2 feet away into my mouth.
>>
Can you sandblast 3dprints for a good finish?
>>
>>1257992
Apparently you can, but it won't remove layer lines.
geekhackDOTorg/index.php?topic=85846.0
>>
>>1258001
if it can't remove the layer lines, what /does/ it do?
>>
>>1258003
Tooths up the surface for paint? Yeah, wasn't clear to me what the killer app was either
>>
>>1258003
use ABS plastic and then acetone vapor bath
>>
Guys. Every time I plug my power supply into ramps the power supply only gives out small bursts of power. When I unplug it the power supply runs consistently. Whats wrong?
>>
>>1258058
short or shit PSU
>>
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>>1258059
it only does it on the side I circled in the photo. When I only plug the other 12 volt wires in it runs fine.
>>
>>1258069
Measure resistance between the poles on the circled side
>>
>>1258059
>>1258069
Yea tried the outer pair with my other 12v supply and it ran fine... Goddamnit. Just wanted to believe the psu was fine. Time to postpone again. Thanks anyways.
>>
A new problem surfaced. Im testing out the extruder but the stepper motor is not getting any power from the extruder pins on ramps. Whenever I test the xyz pins with the motor i can hear it engaging and I can move the extruder with home commands. Why isnt the extruder pins on the ramps getting any power? Ideas
>>
>>1258139
Probably lock, you normally can't run the extruder if the temperature sensor is not reporting a high temperature. I think dry run mode might enable it, if not, there's some other GCode for it, use google.
>>
>>1258145
Tried to M302 S0. And the console says:

READ: echo:Cold extrudes are enabled (min temp 0C)
Cold extrudes are enabled (min temp 0C)

Yet nothing happens if I try to extrude with gcode or software. Also the motor is not "engaged" at all.
>>
>>1258153

Does the motor definitely work? Swap it with one of your others and see what happens
>>
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>>1258158
Yea the motor definitely works. I tried just connecting the motor from the four pins on the extruder input to the four on X axis. Motor moves fine. Could the stepper driver be the problem? This is the test setup now.
>>
>>1258158
>>1258162
Swapped the stepper driver and it works! I swear every time I start posting for help the problem just fixes itself.
>>
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I'm slicing with cura.
Does anyone know of a slicer that gives you more control over fine details of slicing? For instance in the gif I have a small detail that needs to be solidly attached to the main piece. But cura decides that it should make a hole in the shell and keep the infill running throughout the part into this smaller piece rather than making a solid top layer and then printing a new set of infill ontop.

Right now my only option would be to fix this is do 100% infill, which would be fine here since it's just a test piece but for the real application that's not preferable.
>>
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>>1257785
>mfw government fuckboys make us label everything.
>mfw most harmful thing on hand is gasoline
>"anon you have to label that coffee mug and thermos."
>sigh.jpg
>someone could think it was cofffee but could actually be poison.
>allofmywhat.xcf

Well then the mutherfuckers deserve it for drinking MY fucking coffee from MY fucking cup and thermos don't they? Besides. You really fucking mean to tell me that you trust me to run a hitatchi ex 1100 shovel and load 50 ton haul trucks all day but i cant be trusted with an unlabeled thermos.
>label it now or you will be fined.

Fair enough KEK. i will put it in my car and everything will be labeled by tomorrow morning.

>mfw spent 4 fucking hours off the clock to scrub off and cut all labels off of all our shit and write the chemical compounds of everything on there.
>anon... you cannot do this.

Toss him bigass government rule book on HIS job.

>show me in this book where it says i cannot do that and i will take it off right now. Else go fuck yourself.

>anon i will ticket you.
>faggot i will fucking fight you, my best friend is my FREE attorney, i will sue your ass for harrassment and any other bullshit i can find.

Oh.... and it takes a LITTERAL act of congress to amend that book. I also know a guy who is friends with congressman. So everyone there will know you are the cocksucker making waves .

Enjoy your next career fuckboy!
>>
>>1255515
Kansas america
>>
>>1258178
Wow you sound like an asshole. Gz on having a friend
>>
>>1255812
Sent
>>
>>1258184
Thank you kindly. And if you ever had to deal with OSHA you would understand. I was no where near that much of a prick about it. But i did flat ass tell him
"No"
>>
>>1258189
You do realize there will always be that guy who will drink the gazoline right?
>>
>>1258175
I've come across this problem with a few models from other people. I'm currently using S3D due to GUI reasons, and it lets me modify height-based parameters - which might help in your application. With your model, I assume the centers of that small detail needs to be open, going into the part? If that's the case, then it's quite odd that it's not making walls inside that infill. Have you tried reducing outer wall layer count?

I can see that you've got 6 or so solid layers before the detail, and cura gave me the same problem. I used slic3r to split up the model into parts, and I layered them manually using S3D. I haven't used cura in forever so I can't say for sure.

Answering your question, try S3D. Sidelining your question, try splitting up the model or redesigning the part and see if it works with those current slicer parameters.

Shit, anon, I don't really know of a quick fix for you. Best of luck.
>>
>>1258195
Yes. And the shit quality of most of the coworkers i had was proof of OMF....

Idiot fuck couldn't find a test kit for the radiator so he filled a Gatorade bottle to send off for testing later

Stupid fuck got over half of it down before he started puking.

Idiot one mutherfucker i tell you.
>>
>>1258521
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEyUeCyXl1Q
>>
>>1256431
If you want the one on the left, hands down go with an sla printer (prices have been dropping to around your price point for diy kits).
>>
How garbage are robo3D printers? I bought one ages ago when the 3D printer meme started getting big, prints turned out like shit, nothing stuck to the build plate and I haven't used it since. Do they make shitty printers or are my settings just fucked?
>>
>>1258521
Goddamn, someone deliberately pointing Darwin award nominees towards this thread? Save yourself the time and effort; fill a glass jar full of powder, stick a fuse in it and light it while holding on tight. Liberator was designed as a thought experiment, Cody proved his point. You want to print a safe ghost, make an AR lower and assemble the rest.
>>
>>1258554
They have gotten better but in general robo doesn't give a shit about quality control.

Some examples: when they finally switched to lead screws, they were shipping out bent, caked on dirt and such to customers who ordered them like they were used already.

the new R2 has already cooling issues popping up for cooling the heatsink for the hotend and they are thinking they can fix it through software

they focus on the "cool factors" and make it look pretty more then pure mechanical function
>>
>>1258162
Is that an hypercube evolution?
>>
>>1250144
I'm using (relatively) cheap two-component silicone for resin molds, and i wouldn't recommend it for your project as it's not very durable.
Rather spend a dollar more like that anon said >>1250145
>>
>>1258583
I know all about their quality control, it's fucking garbage
My printer literally arrived broken, one of the parts for the base plate came cracked in half. When I called them and demanded a new part they literally told me to tape it on and then print a new one. This is why you don't do kickstarter campaigns
>>
>>1258577
What kind of a dipshit are you? 3D printed guns are safe when made right, otherwise Cody Wison himself wouldn't have hand-fired his original creation.
>>
Anybody carve here?

Local public library has a Carvey available for free use. I'm looking to engrave/carve inlays in wood. Tips or tricks?
>>
>>1258593
Sorta. Somewhat of a frankestein build from parts here and there because its hard to get the right frame parts etc in my country.
>>
>>1258613
my first printer was the r1, worst mistake of my life, the test print actually was etched into the glass, the ramps already had fire damage fought with them for 6 months to admit they were the cause of the damage and to take it back
>>
>>1258623
It's not particularly safe; he even admits the barrel blows after a couple of shots, AND you're proposing going off spec with a different material. Good luck, hope you didn't need your hand that badly.
>>
>>1258626
While I don't check out the carvey forums, they have a guide how to setup fusion 360 cnc to do stuff for carvey

if you are just doing 2d stuff then easel works fine
>>
>>1258677
yeah, just 2d stuff, in wood.

i've asked the library whether it's bring-your-own-bits (i expect it is), so now i'm shopping for those. are carvey bits special or can i buy off-brand in bulk?
>>
>>1258667
Same one I got. I guess they really do just suck dick. The only redeeming factor (and the only reason I bought it in the first place) is the build size. Not worth it at all anyway
>>
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>>1250145
>>1250447
I got the silicone and started experimenting. Its a Smooth-on "Dragon Skin 10 FAST".

Has a hardness of 10 Shore A. Its hardness is comparable to jello like pic related, or the skin under your arm.
It is sticky like freshly dried paint or some cheese (no right example comes to me right now), but it doent smear or leave marks on surfaces. Dust and dirt stick to it like no tomorrow, but can easily be wiped off under water.
It is tough, i made a 20x20x1.5 mm test piece that i cant tear apart when im holding my hand out.

I poured small amounts, like the area of my thumb on different materials to see how the cured thing works. The mix has a consistency of thick syrup but over time it gets into details easily.
It cured okay, and can be peeled off okay from the following, without any release agent:
-printed PLA
-epoxy (on PLA)
-hotsnot
-paper
-previously cast silicone of the same type.

Peeling is easy but you have to find a corner to start it from, and slowly work your way. The amount of detail it preserves from the mould is amazing, even the print lines can be seen.

So from the above i can say if you want a smooth finish you can (from the most economic/easy option to the most expensive/complicated):
-first mould in printed pla, remove the cured silicone and coat it with a new batch of silicone to remove the print lines (it will drip so you might have to do this multiple passes on different surfaces)
-use hotsnot to smooth out your print, then mould the silicone
-coat the print with epoxy (let it set obviously), then mould the silicone

I have also tried silicone on silicone chaulk used in sealing stuff in bathrooms. My thinking was, i can save a lot of money if i use silicone chaulk for the bulk of the material, then 2 component silicone for the details on the outer layers. Interestingly the 2 component silicone is not curing on the silicone chaulk, it has a skin thats cured but the interface is still not set. Maybe it needs more time..
>>
How hard is a Prusa to assemble? I currently have a FFCP and have changed the nozzles as well as replacing the X axis cable but that's the limit of my experience. I'm weighing up whether to buy one pre assembled.
>>
>>1258772

Not very hard, the instructions are thorough (if you can cope with IKEA furniture you'll be fine), and assembling it yourself will help with your knowledge should you need to do anything else to it

By the kit - save money and gain knowledge

Only buy pre-assembled if you're a dumbass or you're in a hurry
>>
>>1258776
Thank you. I can handle Ikea (I often end up reenforcing their furniture).
>>
>>1258754
I'll be doing very similar tests but with light thermopastics. I will be taking note from your stuff in regards to mold design and home application. Instead of silicone, I'll be recycling materials and having to heat the damn thing to about 60 or 80 odd Cs, hopefully PLA won't deform too much.

I will report back whenever I get stuff done, and hopefully you do too. Best o luck, whatever you're doing, anon.
>>
>>1258754
I actually work in formulating 2 part and 1 part silicone sealants and adhesives. They won't bond together without a primer regardless of what you do. Typical primers are made of difunctional silanes. Very corrosive to work with so I wouldn't advise doing it this way.

Also I would highly recommend not using anything labelled "acetoxy" (smells like vinegar when dispensed), and instead stick to "neutral cure". I also would not recommend two-part even if it is "FDA approved" because it will most definitely contain shitty catalysts that might make the frogs gay. Stick to 1 part neutral cure, if it's too viscous to fill the mould buy one that is rated for use on fireplace flues and dispense into something you can heat up before pouring. PLA shouldn't warp too much at 80C. I would suggest using something better as a mould though.
>>
what build surface are you using? i'm having good success with glass and gluestick for ABS; before i had a 0.8 mm PEI sheet; however it did come loose from the adhesive sheet due to warping of my prints; i also tried FR4 and carbon plates, but with no success
>>
>>1258754

Silicone caulk relies on air mosture for curing, it won't set for a very long time. Best use case is for making cheap moulds where you do a thin coat of it on your model to capture the detail, let it cure, then strengthen the mold with a coat of plaster or any other similar crap ontop.
>>
>>1258802
I'm >>1258789

Silicone caulk has a very high moisture vapor transmission rate so it normally would only take 1-3 days depending on local absolute humidity. This can be sped up a lot by putting it in a humidified box. Shitty little humidifiers hosed up to a plastic box should do it.
>>
>>1258780
What light thermoplastic in particular will you use?

>>1258789
>"acetoxy" smells like vinegar
Well shit, my friend have been making unicorn horns with shit like that for a while. Why is it bad?
>They won't bond
Im curious about the reasons, why?

>>1258802
>won't set for a very long time
It does cure just fine within 1-2 days, except when you use a wax mould or something that wont let air though.
But i was not even talking about moulding with silicone chaulk directly. I wanted to make a rough shape with chaulk, let it set then put it in a mould (like a core) and fill the gaps with silicone. But according to >>1258789 it wont stick.
Also it sets just fine when moulded in a print, the surface roughness of the print traps enough air to trigger the curing and within a day or two a 1cm thick shell is cured enough to remove the silicone from the mould. Then the whole surface of the print is exposed to air letting the core cure too.


The amount of information in this thread is amazing.
>>
>>1258816
Gonna be recycling some old toys and bring new life into them! A few other anons are curious as to what silicone should be bought for casting these kinds of things, even often asking about caulking! Needless to say, nobody has been bothered to make model negatives for em yet - I'll be making some soon, probably within the next few weeks.

Can't be too specific on materials, but these elastomers from products have a shitload of plasticizing agents, separating once exposed to fire but should be fine under heat.

Of course, I won't be exposing it to fire, only gonna melt and pour with a pan.
>>
>>1258796
I use heated glass and DIMAFIX, sticks everything like glue apart from nylon which is okay but requires a skirt.
>>
>>1258796
Borosilicate glass with glue stick, my prints only stick to fresh glue tho. Only tried with PLA and PETG, when they stick they stick like a mofo.

Ive seen regular glass heat beds fail, or being chipped because the print stuck to the glass. Id pay the extra and not worry about broken glass exploding in my eyes.
>>
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>>1258754
>>
>>1258835
I was considering using that one.
>>
Does anyone have any idea when monoprice plans to release their mini delta? A mini select V2 would work for me, but I would enjoy the higher print speeds and smaller layer resolutions.
>>
>>1258816
>Acetoxy
It gives off acetic acid when cured which can be a strong irritant to the skin. I imagine it's fine after a while but for the initial few months you're probably having a lot of acetic acid near the surface which can be an irritant. Won't kill you but may cause dry/irritated skin. Especially for unicorn horns. Neutral cure just gives off methanol/ethanol which normally evaporates a lot quicker and isn't as irritanting.

>Won't bond
When the 1 part forms a skin it no longer has a good potential to be cured. All of the crosslinking sites on the surface are already reacted. That's why the only way is by introducing a primer which can crosslink old and new together. It will work if you put them together before a skin has formed so you might be able to create a rough core using caulk and quickly add the other stuff over it. Window for skin formation is normally like 5-20 minutes depending on the caulk.
>>
>>1254120
>motherboard has been replaced a few times now.
Wow, what a heaping pile of shit.
>>
>>1256136
If you want to improve tolerances, you need a printer with very small layer resolutions (25 microns is the equivalent of 0.001" precision), and a smaller diameter nozzle. I forget the numbers, but a smaller nozzle can have a dramatic difference in the quality of a print with fine details.

Also, I don't think it's your printer's fault for that part coming out less than ideal. I see it's meant to be some sort of rotating part, but the circular features have very visible flat faces which compose the outer surface of the circular sections. You need to adjust the setting when you export your part to a .STL. I had a similar problem when I tried printing parts that rotated within one another, but by making the .STL I fed into the printer have finer tolerances for degrees, I was able to get a nearly flawless fit with minimal sanding.
>>
>>1257435
>What heated bed is this? What size is it?
Classic 20x20, aluminium thic sheet.
For ABS
>>
just switched my glass bed with a pertinax sheet for testing; ABS is sticking without glue stick at 100 °C so far (first print on a sanded surface)
>>
>>1259131

What about brand/model? That variety of connection points looks perfect for a DIY project I'm doing
>>
>>1259063
neat.
>>
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>>1258888
>>
>>1259343
>>1258888
Probably fairly soon, they are probably finishing up deliveries for the indiegogo preorders, they had it on display at the SoCa willcall in their 3D printer display room.
>>
How important is having a heated bed?
>>
>>1259475
if you don't want to be limited to only printing PLA then very
>>
>>1259479
I'm looking into a small desktop printer as my first 3D printer as an entry point for small decorative models while I learn 3D modeling. So printing in ABS or making medium to large prints is on my lowest priorities.
>>
man the new version of kiss is looking good, going to mess around with it tomorrow

http://www.kisslicer.com/162-features.html
>>
>>1259481
well, if you don't have a heated bed then even with PLA, depending on the brand, you might run into issues where the print warps (curls up on the side), comes off mid print, or not sticking to the bed.

I see no reason not to get a 3d printer with a heated bed, they usually only cost ~10-25$ more than ones without
>>
>>1249292

benis
>>
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I got some time to play a little bit with the new kisslicer
other then putting in some basical info in the setup wizards, I did the short preload rough guess stuff

Printed on a CR10, eSun PLA+

think I'm going to make some time to try some PETG and go through the full long preload wizard and see just how good I can get it
>>
Anyone know if the Moai can print using the formlabs resins? Or do I have to buy the form 2?
>>
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>>1260014
What's your overall opinion on the CR10? I'm very tempted to go with a Prusa but dat build volume is attractive too.

Also, post odometers.
>>
>>1260076
It's not bad, no real fancy bells and whistles since it's price per volume is it's card

Better then I thought with it being a low priced chinese printer. Only needs one mod right out of the gate and that's a better fan duct.

If you put in some time tuning your profiles can get some great results out of it, even with the single z axis motor since the the weight on it isn't to terrible heavy.

>>1260047
It should in theory they both at 405nm lasers don't know if anyone has used them before but here is a small community doc of peoples settings for different resins
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1t8bjlfk7irSJFy3kzOr-I6SN5acE8UIlOl2E4r3dG_8/edit#gid=0
>>
>>1260014
I goy some tips for you for printing with PETG
>turn off fans, you get better layer adhesion
>increase flowrate by 10% or 0.1, PETG likes to underextrude
>turn retraction up to 100mm/s at a 10mm distance, PETG is very stringy
>do not print directly on glass bed, I've gone through 5 glass beds due to the PETG sticking so strongly. In some cases, the PETG made a crater in the glass
>use clear PVC cement on the bed, PETG sticks to it very well and taking the part off will peel off the PVC cement so your bed doesn't get damaged and the surface is shiny and smooth
>>
Where can I get good 3d models? I'm specifically looking for Azog the Defiler and Tangela (the pokemon).
>>
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>>1260238
Sounds like you have some issues with your setup not with PETG
>fan can be on but keep it low, sub 20%
>you don't already tune each extrusion multiplier for each material?
>you don't do some quick calibrations for materials?
all I'm doing is testing the preload settings in the new version of kisslicer which can have some very interesting features for materials types like PETG that like to ooze
>adjust your z offset to be touch higher
>PVC cement creates some nasty nasty offgases the vast majority are based around THF, MEK, Cyclohexanone and Acetone

Pic is just with tuning the preload settings in kiss, keeping my retractions at my PLA typical of 5mm at 80mm/s with a 3mm wipe.
Preload VE value at 0.8261 Preload speed 25mm/s
Best way to think of how preload works is it takes your calculations based off it's wizards to start better changing speeds of the toolhead moving around to match how much plastic is being pushed out while changing extrusion multiplyer along with it to reduce retractions.
>>
>>1260315
Looks like you are printing too hot, the hotend or the bed melted the whole print.




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