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File: image_18449.jpg (176 KB, 1200x1200)
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Halp me /diy, I don't really know how to go about this. I want to get pic related and be able to attach a drill chuck at one end so I can attach things like a stitching chisel, rivet/grommet setter, stamps etc, and use this instead of a rubber mallet and pounding away at my work bench. As far as I can tell though, (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) the ram is just flat on both sides. My idea at this point is to just take the ram to a machinist and tell him I want to be able to stick something in there and secure it with a set screw or something. Does this seem like it would be a good idea, or is there a better way of going about this? Also, if anyone knows around how much the machining would be (a hole and a tapped hole I guess?), that would help too.
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>>1259242
What do the shanks of the tools you want to use in it look like?

A round hole with a set-screw in the side might work quite well.

Make sure you tell him you want a flat bottomed hole though, wouldn't want a tool getting jammed in there.
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>>1259258
Ah, I hadn't considered the shape of the bottom of the hole at all. Thank you.

And they're basically just cylinders, like the pic here. I was thinking of getting a set, then shortening and deburring the ends to fit properly. I could probably get by with a hole and a set screw, but the tools don't all have the same diameter shank/handle, so I was thinking a drill chuck would help keep everything centered.
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>>1259258
Actually wait a second, if I had a hole and a set-screw in it, is there any reason I couldn't just put a chuck into that? That actually seems like it would be much easier.
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a drill chuck has a cone, with a setscrew you cant center it as it gets slightly angled.
You can get smaller ones with Hex bit instead of cone, those should be better
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>>1259304
So how would I go about that then? Would I just tell a machinist "Hey, I want to put a drill chuck in here"? Can that be done easily?
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how about a hole with 2 set screws, on from front and one from side.
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>>1259288
>if I had a hole and a set-screw in it, is there any reason I couldn't just put a chuck into that?
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Why do you have to take it to a machinist isn't that what they are all ready made for ?
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>>1259353
Again, as far as I know, the ram is just flat on both sides, and comes with no way to attach anything to them. So I'd like to be able to change out what's on the end of the ram.
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>>1259304
but you can buy an arbor for the drill chuck and have the machinist turn the tapered end that doesn't go in the drill chuck into a round rod and insert it that way
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>>1259242
not sure a drill chuck will hold the force required for pressing....
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>>1259369
I don't understand. Are you saying it would break under pressure?
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>>1259374
i'd guess they are saying the needle/whatever will slip on the chuck jaws. I've leaned in drill presses pretty hard in the past and reckon it would probably be OK.
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>>1259377
Yeah but drill presses are drilling and presses are pressing.

Need something to press against instead of focusing on something holding the sides of the round shank, I think.
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>>1259392
well if the tools he's putting into the chuck are long enough to bottom out in the back of the chuck where it's attached to the press, it would work fine.
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>>1259405
the bottom of a cheap chuck might be a bolt head or something
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>>1259242
turn the square shalft to 3/8" thread and screw a 3/8 chuck. For needles is ok, i dunno about the chisel, might be larger than 3/8
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I can do this for you at a fair price. Email me at milfme@tuta.io
(Yeah hurrr Dürer, it's a throwaway)
And we can work out details.
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>>1259242
The Stewart McDonald fret press is pretty much what you are talking about. It's a half tonner if I remember correctly, maybe one ton, probably a 1/4" hole with set screw. Should be fairly capable for leather work, has a few other features not normal to arbor pesses.
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Just drill Morse taper socket in the moving part and then you'll be able to use standard drill press chucks
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>>1259242
i bored out another anon's arbor press to take leatherworking tools using a regular drill press and it worked OK. keeping the hole centered was a sonofabitch. also had to regrind a drill bit to cut the end of the hole flat, think it was 3-1/2 inches deep by 7/8 dia? anon2 didn't want to cut down any of their tools- that would've made it impossible to use them with a mallet. so the hole had to be quite deep.

protip: grind the bottom two or three teeth off the rack so when you wind it to the top it starts skipping teeth; now you can reposition the handle for optimum leverage with different length tools.
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>>1259571
how big of a morse taper can OP fit on his square rack?

what is that like a 1.5" square?

MT1 should be pretty small




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