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Any pen makers?
First acrylic pen blank.
All of the wood pens I have made I finished with the micro mesh, boiled linseed oil and CA glue.
Should I use CA glue on the acrylic?
>>
>>1271115

how does that vise work? If it is a commercial product do you know the name or model?
>>
>>1271115
Cool.

>show pns pls
>please
>pns like it
>>
>>1271154
Not OP but I think it's a Rotur Pen Blank Centering Vice made by Biven Machinery and Tooling
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>>1271115
What is "CA" glue?

I thoroughly recommend Loctite 380 black max for high strength bonding needs. Must be stored in a refrigerator when not in use.
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>>1271154
This is the vise.
Outside plates are stationary why the inside moves equally. Once it is set up you can drill several pen blanks

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/DRILLCENT3.html
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>>1271252
CA glue is glue with Cyanoacrylate as its primary component
While CA glue is a “super glue” not all super glues are CA glue.

CA glue dries fast and is very durable, it’s used as a pen finish.
>>
>>1271219
Working on Christmas presents
The top pen/pencil set made from zebra wood
Middle pen is walnut
Bottom pen is tulip.
Right are the four acrylic pen blanks I drilled.
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>>1271338
Opps.
Middle is tulip
Bottom is walnut
>>
>>1271115
>CA glue on the acrylic?
superglue fogs plastic

just polish and buff to finish
>>
>>1271338
Pretty pimp anon. Might be doing some epoxy resin / wood combo blanks. Theu work for gun stocks and knife handles. Will holler when i get around to it if u want and mail you a few to try out and lemme know how they work?
>>
>"pen makers"
the scam where you buy pens and pretend the ugly shit you lathe adds value to it?
>>
>>1271663
Comes to DIY
Bashes people who DIY
>>
>>1271663

/b/ is <----- that way
>>
>>1271338
Beautiful
>>
Has anyone used aromatic/eastern cedar for pens? I managed to snag some pieces that got toppled by an oak in my neighbor's yard from the hurricane. The heartwood is a really nice deep purple with a solid band of that milky sapwood but from what I can tell cedar doesn't keep its color too well. Does anyone know if typical things like CA glue would help contain its color, or at least keep the majority of it? I wouldn't mind if it lightens up to a red but I certainly don't want it going gray like I always hear cedar becomes.
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>>1271608
I've never had CA fog acrylic, but I agree, just finish the plastic, no need for a coating.
>>
>>1274060
You can use western red cedar for a pen. If finished with BLO and CA glue, the wood may get darker. Soft porous wood will need several coats of CA finish. Like 5 or 7 compared to the normal 3 to 5. Should not get grey like a fence post cedar.
>>
OP is back for those who have interest.
not a lot of time to make pens because work.
Trimmer needed sharpening as it would not cut the acrylic.
Ripped glove makes a good vise pad.
>>
>>1275048
Thanks iPad
>>
Blanks with the brass glued in
Cut to length
And ends trimmed square.
Ready to mount on the mandrel
>>
>>1275054
Its Hiros cheap ass and shit servers.

Sometumes even randomly replaces your photo with another.

Whoever codes this think is a autistic fucktard.
>>
Bump for interest
I want to see the finished pens
>>
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Sometimes I make pens, but mostly I just make messes.
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>>1271115
I did some of one of these in high school wood shop. It's fun, but who the fuck needs so many pens?

I prefer using a drafting pencil, anyway. Just as elegant as a pen, but you get to pretend to be a cool engineer and people are curious when you sharpen it on a stone.

Less messy and less of a meme than a fountain pen, and these turned pens are usually ballpoints anyway.
>>
>>1277092
If sharpening a pencil against a rock is less messy than a fountain pen, you fucked up.
>>
>>1277098
some people are dumb and dont know how to write and get ink everywhere

you cant fuck up writing with a pencil as easily

i usually use my multitool file to sharpen the pencil and just wipe it on a napkin if im out, or at home i save the shavings in a little metal thing and then put it in a tube for later use as no-heat solder junk, or to color things black if i feel like it
>>
What are the better resin mixes for use with wood?
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Do you guys drill on a drill press or on the lathe? I used to use the drill press, but my cheap vise stripped, and the new vise is a cheap one that I can't center things in vertically well. Now I use the lathe, but it's slower. I want to find a good self centering vise so I can just churn out all my drilling for the next while real quick.
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Anyone else /diy/ their own carbide tooling? The big ugly one was the first attempt, the one without carbide is attempt #2, it went much better. The first one was whatever shit wood I had around, think it was a 2x2 from the local Lowe's, and I tried BLO on it. Both are terrible. Second was a piece of oak from the same place, and CA finish.
>>
>>1278275
Yeah, I have one will post a pic tomorrow.
Because it’s bed time
>>
>>1278275
Post a picture of the fixture holding your lathe tools. I need something simple
>>
>>1277819
I drill on the lathe. It made a huge difference. I haven't drilled a single off center blank since I started drilling on the lathe.
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>>1279712
>>
>>1279743
My problem with lathe drilling is that my lathe has enough play to it that it's possible to drill at enough of an angle to make a terrible screeching sound. The solution is easy enough, found a little keychain center finder at Woodcraft, and I find the center off of all 4 corners(2 if you know it's square, but I like cut-off grab bags), then just make sure it lines up before I start, but it's one more step. Plus, chuck key versus some of the nicer pen vises that have a quick lever clamp thing.
>>
>>1279868
Adding to this, anyone know a good source for cheap MT2 chuck's that aren't shit? I'd like to have at least 3 quality ones, makes quickly swapping between my two most common sizes and anything else fast and easy. I know Harbor Freight has them for around $25, but the one I bought was bad, it wasn't straight. Have you guys tried em? Dunno if it was bad luck and I should buy a couple more and refund them if they're bad, or just write them off completely.
>>
>>1279890
I don’t buy from harbor freight
Good and cheap???????
>>
>>1277092
I mean I don't know if there are kits out there for mechanical pencils/lead holders like there are kits for turning rollerballs, but there's no reason someone wouldn't be able to turn their own pencils instead of pens.

May actually even be a selling point to be able to sell matching pen/pencil sets.
>>
>>1280063
There are pencil and lead holder kits, yeah, a few have matching pens.
>>1279907
Harbor Freight has some great deals on stuff that is way better quality than you normally get for that price, but I don't know if the chucks are one of them. $25 for a chuck is cheaper than the Penn State and/or Nova ones, which are the cheapest brand name ones I've come across at around $40-$45, but I just dunno if the odds of getting a straight one are good enough that it's worth the drive. If they all have run-out, fuck it, but if it's a 50/50 shot, ehh, maybe I'll get 3 or 4 and come back to return the couple that suck.
>>
Ok /diy/, how do you make nibs for fountain pens? It seems that some sort of stamping block would be needed to cut out the nib shape and another one to make it circular. Can these be purchased or would I need to make one?
>>
>>1280063
A pen and pencil kit like op showed in his picture?
Here>>1271338
>>
>>1279890
>Go to harbor freight
>Buy 30 chucks
>Keep best 3
>Return 27 shitty ones

Really though, this is what I did. Not 30, but I did buy 4 and return 3.
>>
>>1280189
They're actually super interesting to watch being made. There is a video that was posted here before about a Japanese man who still handcrafts them for high end luxury pens.

Old pens used to use Iridium as the point on the nib. Iridium is RETARDED expensive. I think most use gold now because it's cheaper.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1F12qUyIACM
>>
>>1280366
They're still primarily iridium. Some use all gold, but that's pretty rare, even on high end ones. Usually it'll be gold for all of the nib except for the tip, which makes it nice and soft to write with, while keeping it from wearing out. Iridium is used because it's the 2nd most dense metal, so it keeps it from wearing much.
>>
>>1278275
Made this to quickly hog out material for hardwood bowls.
I can place the handle against my hip for leverage
>>
Would have posted sooner but work.
Git the blank mounted on the mandrel
And the mandrel in the chuck.
Tool rest is slightly below the work piece.
Turn the chuck by hand to ensure proper clearance.
>>
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Use wood. These pair of yellow cedar burls from British Columbia would be spectacular.

Or dogwood. Inexpensive but has a subtle ribbon effect when turned
>>
>>1271681
Irony is a lost art here.

>>1274060
It fades over time but the smell keeps for years. Turned a vase out of one
>>
Turned the square blank round.
First with the gouge. The skew is next
>>
After the skew I sanded with 100 grit paper
See the scratches
>>
>>1271252
i see Loctite has learned the secret of a shot of black
>>
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>>1271252
I'm trying Bob Smith Industries slow cure epoxy currently. Just glued a few this week, haven't got around to turning them yet. So far it's a dream to work with, mixes easily, flows well enough for a 2-part epoxy, work time let's me comfortably do 6 pairs, but I'm worried about how well it actually sticks. Came right off the parchment paper and I could crack it off the mixing cup cleanly. Hoping the barely rough pre-roughed tubes and the drilled blanks give enough physical strength to the bond.
>>
Sanded to 600 grit
>>
>>1281628
How do you finish?
12000 grit not sure if I need the plastic polish.
>>
>>1281667
One Step is decent, quick, and easy. If the pen is gonna see a lot of use, it'll get scratched anyways, stick with One Step. One Step will leave tiny rotational lines if you look at it really carefully under a good light. I finish by sanding up to 12k, and then I have a buffing wheel set specifically for acrylic type blanks, and I buff it two different directions. Best method I've found yet, and almost easier than One Step, only downside is one more thing to switch over.
>>
>>1275119

> Its Hiros cheap ass and shit servers.

iOS devices can be a pain in the butt to work with. I'm a programmer and I recently learned that you have to read the orientation flags in an image when it is uploaded to your server, and then you have to rotate it to get it to look right.

If you don't know that you have to do this, then you get upside down or sideways images sometimes. No other device causes this problem. Just iOS.

blargh
>>
>>1281667

>12000 grit

12000 ? or did you mean 1200 ?
>>
Blank after plastic polish
Kit ready to assemble
Pieces must be pressed into the blank
If you press them crooked you can destroy the blank
>>
Finished pen
One Christmas gift done
3 several more to go
>>
>>1281836
12000 grit
See
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/micro-mesh-large-sanding-kit
>>
Green pen is done
>>
I have only done a little bit of turning at a buddy's place and want to get my own equipment. Since I don't think I'll make more than pens, maybe try a bowl or whatever else if I have a big enough hunk of wood, I'm only wanting a cheap but decent lathe.
On HF I found an 8x12 1/3HP bench top for around $80 with most of the reviews saying it's good but heavy. Uses an MT1 and comes with a live center tail and spur with two plates.

For simple hobby turning for a short bit after work would this be fine? And would it be better to get a small drill press or get parts for the lathe to drill?
>>
>>1283154
Heavy is good, takes more effort to vibrate it. MT1 is the catch on that lathe, less accessories are offered in it since it's the old outdated size, and it'll mean if you ever upgrade, you need to rebuy all your tools again. Depending on what you're drilling, the lathe might be the better option. Pen jaws for the Nova chucks are like $20, and you'll drill perfectly. Lathe wins on precision, drill press is more versatile though.
>>
>>1271338
>>1282096
purdy




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