[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Home]
Board
Settings Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself



Thread archived.
You cannot reply anymore.



File: 3dpg10.png (2.01 MB, 1286x1080)
2.01 MB
2.01 MB PNG
Old thread >>1272345

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute.

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
youtu.be/w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones

>SLA&DLP
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
http://www.nanodlp.com/

>SLS
http://sintratec.com/ A SLS kit.

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc
>>
Got a Flashforge Creator Pro, now what upgrades do I make on the bed?
>>
Fuck just broke my glass sheet when I was trying to pull my print. Thank god it just broke and didn't shatter or cut me.

I really need to go a proper glass shop though I doubt I can find borosillicate glass here. Think I might need it slightly thicker. I only need it for PLA right now.
>>
File: 1nh3qo.jpg (80 KB, 610x407)
80 KB
80 KB JPG
STILL waiting for my Prusa. Ordered the MKII in May, then when it was about to ship they announced the MKIII so I cancelled my first order and bought the MKIII instead. One of these days I'll finally get to print.
>>
>>1281242

The MKIII isn't such a big improvement over the MKII, you may have played yourself.

>>1281239

Borosilicate breaks too, mine is full of potholes from printing PETG...
>>
>>1281239
What kind of glass were you using? I used the cheapest glass they had and it just works.
>>
File: anet_a8_upgraded.jpg (1.96 MB, 3000x4000)
1.96 MB
1.96 MB JPG
I only just bought this Anet A8 yet I want to upgrade the frame with aluminium extrusions. What else do people often upgrade on the Anet?
>>
>>1281306

Everything, lel. And they they're like "Anet A8 is great, you just gotta tinker a bit with it"
>>
File: 1508189115049.gif (2.94 MB, 270x480)
2.94 MB
2.94 MB GIF
>>1280856
sign anon:
do you have pics of the inside of pic related?

how do you arranges the led strips on the parts that are very curved (eg. top)?
>>
>>1281306
Add a precision piezo while you're at it
>>
>>1281311
After the frame, software and extruder is upgraded and I've added a bed leveler like >>1281332 suggested, is there really much else to upgrade?
>>
>>1281285
>Borosilicate breaks too
Hmm...Now I'm tempted to buy that printinz plate.

>>1281298
Found some old pictures frames and I cut the glass into size.
I also found a thicker brownish glass sheet but worry if its tempered glass, heard it can shatter when cut. Sounds dangerous
>>
>>1281214
I'd get some nice big thumb screws to make leveling easier, a cooling fan kit, and a glass bed kit. Pretty much all of that can be printed except for borosilicate glass plates, and an electric fan
>>
>>1281336

After all that every money you put into it won't really make it print that much better.

Maybe a pair of oldham couplers for the leadscrews
>>
kijiji.ca/v-electronics/regina/wilson-ii-3d-printer-many-mods/1314091517
Could this be a good buy? I'm getting desperate here, nobody in my area ever sells used 3D printers. A new Prusa i3 kit is $600, I don't know how it compares.
>>
File: broken_chimney.jpg (74 KB, 1024x768)
74 KB
74 KB JPG
Why does the chimney of my Benchy go like this?
>>
>>1281239
Use a razor blade to pry it off - you might have to wait a while for the print to cool a little, but it's worked for me so far. I do have a layer of elmer's glue on my glass, though.
>>
>>1281375
Looks like you have layer adherance issues, and the chimney sticks to the extruder while printing and rolls it around. You may be underextruding or have feeding issues (hobbed bolt/spring not tight enough), that's what fixed it for me.
>>
>>1281394
It only seems to do it when I'm printing something with a small diameter like the legs of an animal or the chimney on the Benchy
>>
>>1281407
The area it's printing becomes overheated and gummy/pliable, then sticks to the print head or gets dragged around.
>>
>>1281409
Any suggestions on how to fix this?
>>
File: 1508994366898.jpg (53 KB, 520x693)
53 KB
53 KB JPG
My printer seems to "spazz out" halfway through prints. Pic related. It's a brand new monoprice mini. It seems to always happen at the same height and the extrufer will move to the bottom left of the fab surface and flip out. Help.
>>
>>1281413
Increase cooling / install cooling fan, add more parts to the same print so the print head has to move elsewhere is all I can think of
>>
File: 20171119_154025.jpg (2.13 MB, 4128x2322)
2.13 MB
2.13 MB JPG
>>1281314
Like this. The area in the curve with the wires I fucked up though. I removed an LED out of this section and din't bother to put one in thinking it would be fine. However, it makes just the tiniest dark spot on the sign, so don't fuck up and be lazy like I did.
>>
>>1281339

I think the 2016 model has all of this. What is the glass bed for?
>>
>>1281504
How much did these LED strips run you, and do you have to have a special driver for them or is it just plug them into USB/wall and go?
>>
>>1281518
The LEDS are ws2812s which you can get on Amazon or ebay at about $25 per 5 meters. Get at least the 60 LEDS per meter strip. The controller is an Arduino. Check out my Apple neon sign build on instructables. For this sign though you need a 20 amp 5V driver and 311 LEDS.
>>
anyone use marlin's UBL for their prints?
it has been hell to configure and it has made my leveling worse after following the guides online.

I feel like this is designed for a bed that does not move at all, tutorials state that the leveling is stored and only a small tilt calibration is needed before every print.

G29 L1 ; load mesh for pla temperature from slot 1
G29 J ; do a three point probe in case the bed tilt changed

this has done nothing, my print bed is not moving at all and my bed tape has been destroyed.

I followed the exact commands and instructions for leveling and see no results at all, wtf am I doing wrong?
>>
Where do you nerds buy your PVA?
>>
>>1281576
PVA glue? It's Elmer's glue. Any local store, really.
>>
>>1281578
No, filament. I see some on hobbyking for cheap.
>>
>>1281509
makes print removal and bed prep a hundred times easier. also, even it it has that other stuff standard, you could probably find better versions on thingiverse
>>
>>1281362
Bump
>>
>>1281620
Or you could just use painters tape.....
>>
>>1281646
even then, you have to reach into a small box. and man handle the entire print bed every time. trust me, being able to just pull the whole build plate out, and swapping in a fresh one on the fly is so much quicker and easier, and easier on your printer in the long run
>>
>>1281429
Overheating maybe
>>
>>1281429
if it was only moving in one axis I would call it a jerk setting issue, what are they and what are you using to slice this?
>>
>>1281683
I don't see how having to re-level the bed every change is better than needing to fumble with your ham hands for a bit.
>>
>>1281739
...but you dont need to level the bed each time. Because you dont have to tug and pull on the entire print bed assembly every time means you pretty much never need to fuck with re-leveling. that's kinda the point
>>
https://makezine.com/2017/11/19/apology-to-naomi-wu/

welp lads, if you still sub to their magazine time to unsub, the worthless cunt cried and threw a foaming at the mouth rage long enough to make him buckle.

I guess the age of huge tit girls who steal designs from the community has dawned.
>>
>>1281887
tropped them when they started to riddle their blog with popups and optimised it for tablets.
But now I'm getting upset with hackaday too. What other sites on the topic exist?
>>
>>1281429
Cool eldar tank. Link?
>>
>>1281887
Sauce on things leading up to this?

Everyone know shes a phony tho.
>>
>>1282040
She was banned from makerfaire china, she started harrassing and being a bitch to ceo of make and the other speakers, got herself banned for 12 hours for hate speach, then started crying, ceo called her out as a phony cunt, companies that back her left then she started crying more but this time to news and magazines, he buckled

All on "her" twitter for source.
>>
>>1281929
Just look for hornet in thingverse
>>
File: tape.jpg (43 KB, 479x395)
43 KB
43 KB JPG
What do you think about my anti warp mechanism?
Also: I read that stepper motors can get damaged if you use a heat enclosure. How to ensure they stay functional? Some kind of cooling just for them or?
>>
>>1282260
They get damaged by overheating, which you can keep an eye on if you're worried by checking the temp of it during the print. Best thing you can do is put a small enough fan on it that won't push enough air around to ruin the print, but enough to keep the motor cool. Might help to put a heatsink on it too.
>>
>>1282266
How does one check the temp of the stepper motor itself?
>>
>>1282270
Easiest way would be using an IR laser thermometer. Harder would be putting sensors on it.
>>
File: unrelated.jpg (117 KB, 800x796)
117 KB
117 KB JPG
>>1281362
Someone please
>>
>>1282346
no
it is not
>>
>>1281362
Looks like a 200 dollar chink kit with a few mods. Just buy a cheap kit from aliexpress and do the same
>>
>>1282348
>>1282366
Thanks, I've been looking for something high quality so I guess I'll just wait.
>>
File: 20171120_233628.jpg (954 KB, 1000x1333)
954 KB
954 KB JPG
Can someone give me a hand here? I keep getting perfect extrusion on the skirt, but then the moment it starts printing the actual object, it immediately goes to shit and massively under extrudes. I've tried increasing both the extruder temperature (up to 230) and the extrusion multiplier (now at 125%) and it still does it. I can't find anyone with a similar issue anywhere. The filament is esun PLA+ and the printer is a maker select plus. The printer went through a whole roll of amz3d PLA before this, and I had to print it really hot for normal PLA to get good extrusion in the infill, is this indicative of an issue with the printer rather than the filament? The filament sample that the printer came with printed wonderfully.
>>
>>1282387
I mean, if you're looking at the official Prusa, it's really nice. I don't know of anybody who has had any issues with it.
>>
>>1282407
Generic checklist:
>extrusion speed
>cooling
>check for nozzle obstruction
>check if the filament is gripped enough (not loose) when fed
>>
File: cura_settings.png (33 KB, 403x653)
33 KB
33 KB PNG
>>1282409
>extrusion speed
Assuming this is the "flow" setting on cura, I've tried increasing it, and it hasn't worked.
>cooling
This begins on the first layer, where cooling is off.
>check for nozzle obstruction
De-clogged it with a long wire, same result
>filament grip
Filament shows good marking from the extruder teeth, and is held tightly in place

here are my current setting in cura if that helps at all. The high temperature and flow multipliers are from trying to fix this.
>>
>>1282409
check printer settings
sometimes cura sends acceleration settings that fucks with the accel, jerk and flow rates that you need to reset.
>>
>>1282421
Retrying to declog it kinda worked (a small chunk of black stuff came out with the filament, I'm not sure if its carbon or if its old filament). The first layer is still a little nasty, but I think I might just try slowing the print way the fuck down. The bed is at the right level, but I may need to replace the buildtak. The printer glitched earlier and didn't raise the Z axis between layers (nor did it extrude), and I think it kinda gouged the center of the build area.
>>
>>1281362
>can do 50 microns

Everybody and their grandma can do 50 microns
>>
Does a best 3d printer control board exist? What is are you using in your machine?
I'm still using the stock Anet one but I'm wondering if its worth upgrading.
>>
>>1282530
For cheap ones, Mega+RAMPS is best with DRV8825s. From 32bit controllers there is a whole lot to choose from with a variety of features so it's really down to what you specifically need and how much you're willing to spend.
>>
>>1282256
Thanks.
>>
>>1282534
DRV stepper drivers can lead to a salmon skin effect, jump over to the trimanic steppers and you got a good bill
>>
File: huxley-duo-1.png (400 KB, 600x561)
400 KB
400 KB PNG
what's the cutest reprap? I think its the huxley
>>
RIP Tiko, they finally threw in the towel, every investor, store front, bank laughed at them and told them to get the fuck out.

RIP in piss tiko
>>
How fucked would I be if I bought a refurb Maker Select V2? It's near half the price of a new one in Canadistan.
>>
>>1282737
That depends, do their refurbs actually mean "we fixed the shit that was wrong" or do they mean "we put it in a new box"
>>
>>1282700
But MUH unibody
>>
>>1282747
From what I've read there's a chance of either, but if it's fucked they'll send you a good one. Still with customer service something could go wrong.
>>
>>1282700

They threw in the towel JUST NOW?
>>
>>1282767
Well they official called it quits lol

I guess calling lulzbot, zortrax, seemecnc, filastruder, printedsolid a bunch of trolls for calling their product shit were a bunch of trolls like they said
>>
>>1282763
If they are willing to send you a good one if the first one is fucked, and you have the time/willingness to wait on it, I'd say go for it. I love my i3 plus.
>>
File: Phantom_MRE.png (2.11 MB, 1271x750)
2.11 MB
2.11 MB PNG
>>1282813
Thnx bb
>>
File: 1492667556213.png (226 KB, 946x756)
226 KB
226 KB PNG
What's a good way to add some weight to hollow 3D prints?

I've tried sand, plaster, polyester resin, and ABS/acetone mix.

Resin is definitely the best choice for small fills but I don't like any of them for big fills. Any thoughts?
>>
>>1282899
Lead shot?
>>
How often should I lube my system and what should I use:

1) In the bearings
2) On the cross shafts
3) On the Acme screw

Thanks.
>>
>>1282936
what type of bearing for each?
what is the rod/shaft/screw and what is the bushing or bearing?
>>
>>1282899
It would help if you said what your problem was with those weights.
>>
>>1282899
Use a metal filament, copper, bronze etc. as they are noticeably heavier than plain PLA or ABS

And print with more infill!
>>
File: t (2).jpg (761 KB, 747x1328)
761 KB
761 KB JPG
So I might as well tell you wonderful lads and lasses about the casting.

The previous mold was printed on PLA, printing at 200degC at mostly 50mm/s, 0.1mm layer height - the same for this newer set.

TPE had a LOT of heat capacity, such that a tube of 60mm diameter was still burning hot in the middle after being in an ice bath for over an hour. The PLA withstood these temperatures, but will begin to warp and lose definition without water cooling. Water ingress into the TPE made rather dangerous splatter, much like hot oil and water, and results in much more smoke than normally produced. Smoke from the pour increased when blowing onto it, and letting it sit lessened the smoke coming out - it was clear to a light smoke color.

Regarding the pour and the material, I had panicked and poured a whole lot onto the cast and left some in the pot. Due to the nature of the material, its viscosity and cooling, the bubbles were a constant stream from the bottom of the cast - an incremental pour would have been beneficial.

Having let the whole shebang sit in the bath for about 40min and seemingly solid, I begin prying the three parts open. Removal from the surface is a slow peeling action and can result in lines formed by minor surface plastic def.

In regards to the mold design, having retaining rings is highly advised due to the high temps and clamping the bottom cap may not be necessary.

I'll do it again when I can with the new, more efficient design.
>>
What's the best build surface? Borosilicate glass?
>>
Is the multi material mod for the i3 mk2 worth it? Looking to buy a mk2 kit to later buy the multi material mod.
>>
>>1283073
Pics of results?
Also that twist in the middle will result in a tight jellyfish wont it? How hard is the set TPE?

>lasses
I dont think so Tim.
>>
>>1281518
>>1281534
You can get them for half that price at 2.50 per meter on alibaba if you want enough of them to make the shipping cost worth it.
>>
Glass bed for my Anet A8 arrives tomorrow, should I expect my prints to stick or slide off?
I really hope they stick.
>>
>>1283314
A quick coat of hairspray or UHU glue sticks, prints will stick on stronger then micheal jackson on a little boy
>>
Is PEI a good universal surface or is it just for PLA?
>>
>>1280856
Oi, I found a strange offering on the local craigslist. It seems like a really nice setup for a 3d printer, but I'm not sure if the design and equipment shown could actually work.
I know what the ad says, I can handle getting hardware, I just want to know if it's even worth looking at.
https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/tls/d/cnc-machine-diy-gecko-g540/6380125061.html
>>
>>1283388
PEI works great for PLA, ABS and ASA and its blahblah filled types as well.
PETG sticks too much
Nylons don't stick well

>>1283405
It could, but it's going to pose some interesting challenges, if you are aware of those and up for it, would be a steal of a deal.
Polycarbs don't stick too well
>>
>>1283417
Now see, there's the problem. While I understand the basic operating principles of a 3d printer, I lack the hands-on experience needed to judge if this is worth the risk.
What kind of challenges could I expect to face? I know custom mounting hardware and software may be needed, but what else should I be on the lookout for? What are some basic signs that a 3d printer is actually trash?
>>
>>1282266
>>1282311
Do the touch test. If you can't hold your finger on it for more than 2-3 seconds, then it's over 80C and is likely too hot. This is a purely scientific method and requires acute touching skills.
>>
File: LocutusOfBorg2367.jpg (702 KB, 1274x1050)
702 KB
702 KB JPG
>>1282260
>anti warp
>>
>>1283422
Those big steppers, you are going to have to use the external stepper driver there. So going to have to do some research into some of the higher end control boards, like duet, smoothieboard, azteeg and how they deal with external stepper drivers.

Would have to look into what voltage those steppers are, they might be 24v or 48v, gonna be fun there.

Also it's gonna be one slow bitch to avoid some issues, but man the repeatability of its movements are going to be awesome.
>>
>>1283417

So if im going to print everything i'm better off going with glass and just coating it appropriately?
>>
>>1283466
Yeah
>>
>>1280856
I want to make something fairly complicated out of silicon. Is it better to 3d print it, or to cast it in aluminium or something, for someone who has done none of this sort of thing before?
>>
>>1283188
I'll be throwing images in a report doc of the whole thing sometime, considering what the board is. It's part abomination with a maw at the pouring end. It's as soft, if not softer than what it originally was. The wall thickness of the old item was about 30mm, no reduced to 25 so any change in perceived material property may be due to original product design. The next iteration is even thinner to compensate for cooling issues in the center of the mold, where the tentacles would be.

As for tight, having removed the mold and allowing the material to expand results in a natural expansion, so it's not tight at all. Soft shell mounting had little effect.

Now I'm thinking of glass fiber reinforced casts...
>>
>>1283405

That's a CNC setup, it's going to be slow as christmas if you try to use it as a 3D printer. Geared NEMA23s and ballscrew axes make a lot of sense if you need a whole bunch of torque for cutting metals, but on a 3D printer it's useless and just going to get in the way.
>>
Which bed leveling sensor do you guys recommend? Bltouch, inductive, capacitive or micro switch? What do the more expensive printer use?
>>
>>1283631
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY
>>
Where to buy aluminium extrusions in Europe?
Preferably already cut to length, I don't have a miter saw or anything like that.
Anyone have experience ordering from Motedis? They seem to have a branch in Germany.
>>
>>1283695
I've ordered from motedis a couple times, they're one of the cheapest places and they cut things to size very accurately. Only downside is the shipping cost. They also sell filament at great price, it's usually worth adding one or two rolls to the order if you fit the price bracket.
>>
>>1283695
I ordered from Aliexpress and they were cheap. You can't get them cut to length though
>>
>>1283695

I ordered mine from Item Germany, but they weren't cheap like the chinese ones. You can also inquire with Bosch Rexroth but they don't offer black anodized ones. Also be aware that Item's extrusions use a 5mm groove whereas Bosch, Misumi and the chinese ones are usually 6mm.
>>
Anyone using buildtak? Are there any materials it doesn't work well for?
>>
>>1283704
>>1283709
>>1283783
Thanks, looks like I'll be ordering them from german Motedis.
It's just one of the few components where I'm more worried about precision than saving a few bucks (along with leadscrews and linear rails, everything else will be chinkshit).
And they actually offer both 5mm and 6mm variants, so no problem there.
>>
Is the print quality and reliability on a legit original prusa that much better than a clone to justify the price?
>>
>>1283493
You're not going to be able to 3d print silicon, it usually just burns instead of melting. Your best bet is printing a positive, making a negative mold, and casting it in smooth on.
>>
>>1283826
Not really. Theres nothing on the clones you cant improve for a few bucks
>>
>>1283826
No
>>
>>1283826
Just spend an afternoon tweaking the settings of your printer, any chinkshit printer can have good performance if you give it the right calibration.
>>
>>1283826
The hardware at least is more reliable. Haven't had a single problem due to overheating, components burning out, shorting, etc.
>>
Any black Friday deals going on? Mainly looking for filament deals.
>>
File: xy stage.gif (2.46 MB, 320x320)
2.46 MB
2.46 MB GIF
Like my future pen-lotter, /3dpg/?

I designed everything in Fusion 360 for use with some aluminum extrusions I'm not currently using. I think I'll design a laser engraver once I finish this and finish the design for a cantilever-style 3d printer and also an RC airboat.

I'm using two motors for the Y axis only because I have no 8mm bore GT2 pulleys, or else I'd use an 8mm rod to move both sides of the gantry at the same time like Replicator does. Every now and then one of the motors will miss a step and twist the gantry really badly.

I'll use a rack and pinion mechanism together with a nema 17 motor for the Z-axis as I cannot reliaby print a gear that will fit on the shaft of a 9g micro-servo.
>>
>>1283965
>>
>>1284086
I don't suppose you have any tips? I want to build a laser cutter but am still in the planning phase.
>>
>>1282661
I don't know, I have the ToyRep I think it's cute.
>>
File: IMG_20171124_010111029.jpg (2.39 MB, 2432x4320)
2.39 MB
2.39 MB JPG
>>1282661
Actually I have modified the ToyRep and this is the result...
>>
File: IMG_20171124_010619142.jpg (2.42 MB, 2432x4320)
2.42 MB
2.42 MB JPG
Hi I have a trouble with my 3d printer, my printer is a RepRap, ToyRep http ://reprap.org/wiki/ToyREP . I am using MatterControl Software as G-Code Sender an MatterSlice as Slicer. config 0,2mm layer eight at 40mm/s I don't know what is wrong because i got some shity prints... ¿can you help me?
>>
>>1284114
Looks like a cooling/temp issue. Ensure that a hotend has an effective fan to cool the extrusion as the layers seem to stay above their glass temp.
>>
>>1284127
Ohh thank you, I'll try installing a layer fan. I am using a E3D v6 clone
>>
>>1284111
>exposed li-po leads
are you trying to burn your house down?
>>
>>1284114

Wow this might be the shittyest print i've seen in these threads. There's a whole bunch of Z banding there, and you may want to see if your Esteps/mm are calibrated - looks overextruded to me.
>>
Me and my roomates wanna take advantatge of black friday to buy a 3D printer. We're first timers on this.

We've found a BQ Hephestos for 400€ (we're in Spain). I want it mainly for printing figures, how is it? Any other options you may suggest? Budget up to 650 for everything.

Hephestos link since it's from a local company and I don't know if it's aviable overseas
https://www.bq.com/en/hephestos-prusa
>>
>>1284096

What kind of laser cutter?
>>
>>1284018
Atomic fillament has black PLA and ABS for 19 bucks
E3D is doing a sale on fillament and hardware
Folgertech has everything on sale
Printedsolid is doing a sale
Pushplastic is doing a sale use coupon BLACKFRIDAY2017

colorfab 25% off everything
Fillamentum 20% off everything
>>
My glass bed arrived and its perfect to print on with hairspray, however my printer hot end keeps catching on the clips I'm using to hold the glass bed down, will double sided tape work to hold the glass down or will it melt or cause other disturbances?
>>
>>1284289
I think 3m has sheets of double sided that people use for 3d prints
>>
>>1284220
I still haven't decided on CO2 or diode. So far what I've figured out is diode is cheaper and simpler but weaker, and CO2 is bulky and expensive to run/replace but at least 5-10x more powerful and faster. I'm leaning towards diode since it's my first build but I'm unsure if I can cut plywood with them.
>>
>>1284299
You can cut plywood with them
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQ14XSbGCJk
>>
File: laser kit.jpg (64 KB, 628x625)
64 KB
64 KB JPG
>>1284299
Diode is enough to cut really thin plywood, balsawood, cardboard and paper. It's also enough to make some bucks engraving laser items so you can invest in a laser kit. You can even use the same gantry/machine, just design it so that you can mount the mirrors/co2 laser parts.
>>
>>1284217
Take a look at Wanhao i3 Plus for 340€ and free shipping on 3dprima.com (or wanhao i3 v2.1 for 300€). it is not much different to BQ, but seems to have a bit sturdier frame and fake buildtak on the bed. Also i3 plus has 24v electronics so it is less chance for bed leads to burn out.

>>1284018
>>1284240
For Euros:
3dPrima: 20% on filament and some discounted 3d printers
3dJake: up to 20% on different items
Formfutura: 25% one everything
All are valid to Monday 27.11.
>>
>>1284289
Just get a velcro/hook and loop roll. Should be like $10 on Amazon
>>
Jellyfish casting, trial 2.

Imperfection in prints can lead to water ingress, and water ingress can lead to foaming, and foaming leads to porosity! Despite trying a layered pour, water got in and begun to foam everything up.

Will play with temps, try to lower the material temp just above glass to get it to flow more viscous next time. Mold sides buckle a bit despite three retaining rings surrounding it all.

Will definitely be using teflon tape on seams to reduce and hopefully eliminate inter-part water ingress. Didn't have any this time.

Will definitely be compiling and making a doc for this sometime. Will maybe get the chance to do it all again next week.
>>
>>1284171
Ok I'll check both steps/mm I'm using 28byj-48 for x axis and for the geared extruder. Maybe these motors are not the best for 3D printers but they are cheap.
>>
>>1284137
Why ? That tiny shit isn't enough to burn nothing 380 mAh!!
>>
File: ezgif-5-9d2917d873.gif (3.54 MB, 320x320)
3.54 MB
3.54 MB GIF
>>1284590

It can set bigger things on fire. That's how that Samsung cellphone took down several buildings.
>>
>>1284589
>28byj-48
the cheapest and shittiest stepper motors around
>>
>>1284549
Have you tried coating the print with something like xtc-3d to make it watertight and smooth over the layers? Perhaps even just spraying it with clearcoat would be enough
>>
>>1284787
I have yet to. My first print trial was watertight. This print had some extrusion problems and had not completed a few layers on walls. Mold removal is fairly simple and straightforward so I'll be leaving coatings out for now, I must get better at temperature control over the material first. I simply require more teflon tape.

I'm still surprised it carries so much heat.
>>
>>1284289
>will double sided tape work to hold the glass down or will it melt or cause other disturbances?

>>1284295

It's called 9080A

But then again, you won't be able to remove it for washing
>>
Has anyone tried photogrammetry to make printable models? Is it worth the effort in the slightest? Seems like magic to me. Are there any legit pirated copies of agisoft photoscan out there?
>>
>>1284910
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:83781

This is already a few years old, so I imagine the tech has improved significantly since then.
>>
>>1284910
3dzephyr is free for hobby use.
>>
File: dent.jpg (118 KB, 1239x802)
118 KB
118 KB JPG
This is a 20x20x20mm calibration cube with open top and hallow center. Walls are 2mm thick. Why is the bottom slightly thinner than the rest of the model? It thickens up just when the hollow center begins.

Otherwise results are pretty good.
X 20.004mm
Y 20.01mm
Z 20.002mm

Prusa chink clone with bowden and e3d all metal clone.

200C print temp
0.4mm nozzle
0.48mm extrusion width
0.2mm layer hight
3 solid top,bottom 3 shells
25% outline overlap
>>
>>1284985
Bed too cool?
>>
>>1284996
I dont think so. 40C with PLA
>>
>>1285005
40C is too cool. Try 60C.
>>
>>1285067
Not for PLA
>>
>>1285094
Not that guy but I agree 40C is too cool for bed temp PLA. Typically have mine between 60 and 70.
>>
>>1285109
>>1285067
I use 50C with great results
>>
>>1285094
I print PLA with an unheated bed with great results.
>>
>>1285182
Buildtac or painters tape?
>>
File: 1496147687220.jpg (151 KB, 1787x1005)
151 KB
151 KB JPG
printing a cirno for /bant/
have printed multi part and sanded models before, but this detail size is a bit higher with small hair strands and wings.

I need a way of connecting 3mm posts with rough ends (I assume sand and super glue from the sides) and recommendations on what to use after a sanding from a 2-in-1 primer, spray can or hand painting ( I use cheap house paint samples, if this route what type)

also what is the best method in printing long, small posts for outer quality, printing across the z axis causes melting of the post and ugly outside texture to the point where I had to change cooling to directly on the nozzle.
>>
>>1285182
>>1285185
Not this guy, but my heated bed crapped out for a while and I made do with PLA (Elmer's) glue diluted about 1/10 or so. It wasn't perfect, but it worked.
>>
>>1285291
the lads over at /tg/'s /wip/ general (IDK how to cross-link , >>>/tg/wip , it's usually got a space marine or something) could help you out here. Essentially, paper clips and a small drill will help keep everything together and stop it from breaking apart.

If you're dead-set on 100% printing it, you have to print long-ways (so it's laying down) but the quality might be lower due to layer height showing on angled prints.
>>
Requesting a quick rundown on the different flexible coupling types.
Which ones should I use for which axis?

Also how likely are chinkshit "zero backlash" couplings to actually have zero backlash? My guess is not very likely.
>>
>>1285426
Use the cheapest shit for Z, XY don't need a flexible coupling.
>>
>>1285426
Odham coupler for Z

Z won't have backlash because the weight of the carriage/bed will press the nut against the threaded rod
>>
>>1285426

"Zero backlash couplings" is like saying "Gluten-free water" - marketing for people who never bothered to find out what the word means.

These couplings are for leadscrew-driven axes, so the only place you normally use them is Z. For most printers X and Y are belt-driven.

The coupling's only purpose is to tranfer the motor's axial motion to the leadscrew. Get the cheapest spiral coupling you can find and if you experience Z-wobble, try to fixate the leadscrew in a perfectly straight position with a pillowblock bearing at the top and bottom.

Or, ditch the couplings entirely and get integrated leadscrew motors.
>>
>>1280856
Is there a printer that I can gradually upgrade over time, something that will allow a lower entry point as far as cost? That way if I stick with it and maybe get good at it then I'll be able to naturally upgrade the system as time goes on to better fit my needs. I didn't see any information like that in any of the sticky links. Thank you for your time.
>>
>>1285497
Any $200 chinkshit prusa clone
>>
>>1285498
Why the prusa model? And why a chinese version?
>>
>>1285499
Prusa because everything is a Prusa clone on the low-end, barring deltas. Chinese because those are the cheapest, some are as low as $150. But if you can find something not packaged in china for a similar price, you can go for it, it's not like there is any merit in it being from China.
>>
File: 1510997125026.jpg (102 KB, 750x744)
102 KB
102 KB JPG
>>1285499
Good question.

Get a polish clone of a Anet A8 or Creality CR-10.
>>
>>1285509
Why Polish model?
Why those two specifically? Can anything about them be upgraded?
>>
>>1285504
This is good information, thank you. I was looking into the deltas. The way they use the 3 motors to print in the way they do is really neat. I was leaning more towards that style as opposed to standard models. Do you have experience with the two types or just the Prusa types? If you do, what do you feel are the differences?
>>
>>1285523
I don't have a delta and I wouldn't really want to get one. The two advantages of deltas are speed and a fairly small footprint. The disadvantages are mostly in upgradeability, the lack of a direct drive extruder and troubleshooting as far as I know, and there's also some accuracy errors over a larger size, but this is not particularly serious. They're also tall.
The best design is CoreXY, but I don't think there are any entry level printers there. It doesn't really matter what you go with though, if you're going to make use of your printer you'll eventually figure out what's important for you and get/build a better one later on.
>>
>>1285540
This is good practical advice. You were very helpful, thank you.
>>
>>1283695
i bought 2 times from motedis; can't complain so far; two extrusions were cut 1 mm to long; but that doesn't matter that much
>>
>>1282260
depends on your printer design; on my next printer i will use bellows (accordeon like cover) to separate the motors from the heat chamber; you could also try a CoreXY or Ultimaker bowden design, where you can easily put the motors out of the heated chamber
>>
>>1280856
http://3dwrx.com/store.html
Hey, does this seem like a decent buy to you guys? Decent, mind.
>>
How's the precision on the Wanhao duplicator 7 DLP printer?
>>
>>1285718

Like all other resin printers - highly detailed but messy AF. You need to dedicate a workspace only for the printer, with gloves, lots of alcohol, a rinsing station... It's not for everybody.
>>
what are good sales on printing filament from amazon for exotics?
amazon search only brings up normal types or woodfill
>>
About to fire up a little business to produce filaments. We are in the medieval central yurop. We got an extruder and an injection molding machine to do make reels.

An ideas what to watch out?
>>
>>1285858
Dont make pla if it costs more than $20
>>
File: IMG_20171127_145446.jpg (1.21 MB, 3199x2399)
1.21 MB
1.21 MB JPG
Why do my prints start to disintegrate after they get about 2.5" high?
>>
>>1285890
Is your z axis all fucky and sticking at that height? Can you jog your machine and check for hysteresis?
>>
File: IMG_20171127_171855.jpg (2.82 MB, 4160x3120)
2.82 MB
2.82 MB JPG
Overall pretty satisfied with my printer (Anet A8) except for the stringiness and gloopiness that occurs in the empty spaces in prints like pic related.

>Print speed
45mm/s

>Travel speed
55mm/s

>Layer height
0.15mm

>Retraction and fan cooling
Enabled

>Initial print temp
185°c

>Final print temp
180°c

Any tips on improving my final product? It's going to be an anniversary gift for my girlfriend so I want it to be perfect.
>>
Have you tried a higher print temp yet? 180 is on the low side.
>>
>>1285962
Yeah but not with this color. The usual result is the same, I tried to decrease the temperature because I was worried that this was happening because it was too high.

I was printing at 195-205 depending on the color I used.
>>
>>1285964
Over extrusion maybe. Have you measure the diameter of you filament?
>>
https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/folger-tech-ft-5-large-scale-3d-printer-kit

looking at this kit
it's fucking huge printing area really like it

reading reviews etc
anyone have anything negative to say? I run linux as my main OS for 14 years so I like that it says "compatible" even though 99% of them work even if they say they don't.

I really don't know 3d printers well other than I've semi-followed them for several years and now the price to a big build area (12+ inch for me) is finally worth it.
>>
File: droop.jpg (183 KB, 1361x728)
183 KB
183 KB JPG
Suggestion why the underside droops like this? Supposed to be 45 degree angle printed without supports.

0.4 nozzle
0.48 width
200C print temp
0.2 layer height
>>
>>1286036
Are you cooling your print?
Try decreasing the temp a little bit
>>
>>1286038
I thought I was. Seems my squirrel fan is not working. I have ramps 1.4 with the squirrel on the d9. Seems to be a firmware issue since the fan works fine from an external power source.
>>
>>1286038
>>1286040
Christ. The fan was plugged the wrong way in ramps. Feel so stupid atm
>>
>>1286042
The drooping problem still persists. Hmmm
>>
>>1286014

Seems fine for the price point and if you're in need of that build area. Anything making use of it will take a very long time.
>>
>>1286014
FT5 is an ok kit, man neg's I hear is how long it takes to assemble, some questionable quality on parts, and expect to reach out to support to get parts they forgot to pack.

On the plus side if you really like it 713maker makes some super sweet milled upgrade and better designed pieces for it. Or if you don't like the hbot design, its easy to convert to a corexy.
>>
>>1286014
>>1286143
in addition buy direct from folgertech not some reseller that you you get the v2 release of it and there might be some of the black friday/ cyper monday sales on it.

like coupon code: BF2017FT it takes a 100 bucks off the price, so it brings it to 399.20 USD, pretty fucking hard to say no to that.
>>
>>1280856
Tangentially related, but I ordered a prusa mega i3 on gearbest.com(Seemed really recommended by several youtubers) and now they're asking for photo copies of my CC and driver's license. Is that normal? I mean, I'm not gonna do it either way.
>>
>>1286166
Who is asking for it, Gearbest or Paypal?
>>
>>1286175
Gearbest.
>>
Anyone recommend me a plastic primer to smooth my 3d printed stuff? I've read that Tamiya primer is pretty good but I can't get a hold of that stuff in my country.
>>
>>1286178
I've had some success with Rustoleum filler primer, but any auto primer should do; check your auto parts store in the body work section, see what they have
>>
>>1286014
If you buy, buy FT-5 R2, which is a newer version. It is supposed to have some improvements.
Ft5 (previous version) is very time consuming to assemble. There is a lot of parts, and you need to clean the extrusions and laser cut parts before you start. It doesn't have part cooling fan, so do not forget to add an extra pair of wires while assembling cable chains. PSU was weak, so I changed it. I also changed IEC socket, because it was shit. I heard you can't print ABS on it because bed can not heat up to that temperature. I never tried, I only print PLA.
The never version with 24V electronics might or might not solve some of that problems.

You should look at creality cr10. It is already assembled (except of 4-8 screws). While i3 style moving bed is not the best for printer this size it is more or less ready to print and it shouldn't affect anything except lower print speeds.
>>
My nozzle is clogged and filament is stuck in there. I can't get it off with the tools I have either. Even if I put the temperature to 220c I can't melt the filament that is stuck. How do I get this thing off...............
>>
>>1286180
Alright thanks man!
>>
>>1286177
It's not very common, but it's not like gearbest is going to steal your money, and you already gave them your credit card data anyway. It can usually be avoided by paying via Paypal.
>>
>>1286182
Well... get the proper tools? Most nozzles are a standard hex size. They're probably no more than a fiver.
>>
>>1286146
yea got it for 100 off today thx
got some pla and abs as well from what I read pla is nicer to humans but weaker and abs is plastic/oily or whatever just industry stuff and is much stronger
I'll just make something and test their strengths for my needs

>>1286105
yea never really in a rush with anything, mostly just frames for things nothing very "design" fancy
>>1286143
I watched several videos after posting this. Their steppers look like they are great and don't ever get hot even after hours of use which seems great. and I saw lots and lots of mods with it. many people said it was just fine out of the box though

I did see several commands of people just saying it was completely garbage but that was the very minority it seemed

I watched assembling videos as well didn't seem really that bad

this will be my first 3d printer but I've built many projects with steppers so hopefully it isn't really that hard to build
>>
>>1286181
Yea I saw all of that I got the R2
The bed is double the voltage and has a lot more output watts.. heats up to 90C in less than 10 mins a few people said so hopefully that is good
how warm do you need to keep ABS so it doesn't get funky when drying?
PSU was fixed but either way I have several I've rebuilt the inverters for (those china aluminium case ones) that get around 50-60amps before getting too hot and the one they use now is only 30 so psu doesn't really matter to me
IEC socket as in just the normal computer one? Is that what they use to plug in? I'll probably just hardwire a light switch to the PSU in my shop

I saw the cr10 but ultimately the FT-5 was $100 off so I went with that. the group behind it seems very responsive as well


Someone said you need an extra fan for PLA is that true? I only read everything about how it doesn't require as much heat and blah blah but not sure why someone would say you need an extra fan on the unit for PLA only.. however I'm going to throw a fan anywhere it gets warm because cold units last longer
>>
>>1286215
When printing ABS keep the bed at 90-110C until its done printing and allow the bed to cool naturally. Also with abs do a janky / nice mod to do an enclosure, it's very prone to temp fluctuations and rapid cooling while printing.

For PLA and a few other materials I would highly suggest getting a part cooling fan, it helps with overhangs, small details and general appearance, but don't use it for ABS/ASA/ nylons.

I wouldn't say its complete garbage, it just needs some love to really bring it up and make it shine.

The hardest part of assembly other then a metric fuck ton of parts, is getting the damn mgn rails parallel.

And on the subject of PLA vs ABS, PLA has a higher tensile strength but dogshit elognation before breakage. ABS has pretty good tensile strength and good elognation before breakage and admit some nasty ass fumes while printing so find away to limit that exposure (thats where the enclosure does double duty.)

Start off with cura or torrent simplify3d and find a profile for it. Have fun with printing all the dragon dildo's brah.
>>
>>1286182

You can quickly incinerate all filament residue from a nozzle with a lighter. There's a lot of cleanup and polishing afterwards though, because the nozzle becomes charcoal-black and discolored from the high heat.
>>
>>1286235

Wait scratch that, i just read the nozzle can't be removed. For that you need a gentler approach: take off the hotend, grab it with a pair of pliers in one hand and heat the nozzle up with a heatgun until it gets loose. Then it should be easier to unscrew.
>>
>>1284240
>Atomic fillament has black PLA and ABS for 19 bucks
this was on thier website?
is this sale over?
>>
>>1286228
Why use simplify3d? cad and slicers are relatively easy. also it has a SD card slot to just plug in my product


anyway thanks for the ABS tips. I would have ventilation but seems you recommend the exact opposite which I can do as well.
The way you said it, it sounds like janky / nice mod is a type of mod? But I am assuming you just meant do an enclosure over it

would you say a breathable but smell tight mod or just one with exhaust? it won't cause temperature issues with any other parts?

I was originally going to do a overhead vacuum ventilation like on a stove however if I need to keep in the heat that is important to know. most of my designs will be shells similar to I guess an electrical/junction box type of shape so ABS sounds better for that
>>
>>1286244
https://folgertech.com/collections/filament/products/folgertech-filament-1kg-2-2lb-abs-pla-1-75mm

they're $13 right now they also have a black friday promo code
BF2017FT
>>
>>1286244
yeah the atomic filament sale is already over.

>>1286248
yeah meant enclosure, some people use a cardboard box some folks like to go nice and get a steel / plywood cabinet.

Single exhaust should do fine, could even use a 6" dryer vent to aim the exhaust somewhere else.

Simplify3d has some seriously nice toolpaths, but if you know slicers jump into kissslicer, its free, shit ton of options, good toolpaths, produces some great quality prints.
>>
>>1282407
your bed is too low and the extruder is too far above the bed. the skirt is 'smeared' onto the bed at a lower layer height
>>
>>1286272
Thanks I'll check out kissslicer, has a linux version that's nice to see

Yea I think I'll do an "ok" plywood cabinet. nothing fancy.
That is interesting it needs to remain so warm to do good work. and I was thinking of exactly that 6'' ducting just straight outside the wall of my shop attached to the cabinet.

Got any youtube to watch?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5520E3zZoI8
I watched this one it was pretty good. ABS was looking really good on that thin piece it bent a shitload I like it already. I've only done a few prints myself but I've created prints many times for other people lol

his frame was fucking garbage though.. pvc and plastic.. that doesn't melt with ambient temps? fire hazard imo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBJk3URhXAo

this dude talks about PTG being a better material.. haven't seen that in these threads o_o
>>
>>1286359
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2QNs_P_z48

never seen PETG / PTG

https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/175700615-petg-filament-heres-what-you-need-to-know

reading this stuff it seems like what I'd want for case structures more-so than abs and pla?
>>
>>1286362
PETG has worse tensile strength, but pretty good chemical resistance, and a bit worse thermal resistance then ABS. Yeah for snap fit stuff, it is awesome, for I know that it would work well in the situation I'm going to put it in, it's awesome, need it to last against a lot of stress, ehhh maybe not.

It's a good material for the right use case, plus it prints like a fucking breeze.

Only people I really watch these days, is tom sometimes
CNC kitchen (I'm worried think he's selling out) michael hackney (covers kissslicer in great detail.)
Robert cowan ( been covering mostly cnc stuff but getting back to 3d print projects soon,

Daniel Noree does some cool shit, Richard Horne hasn't post anything in ages, James Bruton does a bunch of cool things
>>
What's a good quality filament for a first time 3d printer that is having a cyber Monday sale? I'm about to do my first few prints, so I want a brand of filament I know won't be a point of failure just the get things up and running. Is coex filament any good?
>>
>>1286377
Which material would you recommend for an I guess electrical junction box type shell?
I guess this is the most similar object I can think of to what I'd be making many of:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-12-in-x-12-in-x-6-in-Junction-Box-Case-of-2-E989R-UPC/202206115

mine wouldn't have the top that screws into it though it's just the box part mostly (shape wise)

I think it's an extremely simple shape and print to do.

I have a 1kg roll of ABS and PLA and I'm going to order PETG but just trying to see what people say and I'll test them out as well

>>1286378
PLA seems to be the easiest one to print with from the videos I've watched almost anything can print it and it doesn't require heated bed etc
>>
File: replicape.jpg (126 KB, 949x730)
126 KB
126 KB JPG
Gonna turn my Hypercube Evolution into a replicator-like machine with chinky linear rails.
>>
>>1286380
PETG is my preferred choice for electronics enclosures, especially for chink electronics and my poor electronic knowledge . Petg is self-extinguishing or flame-retardant or something like that. Try burning a piece of filament. It will melt, but when you remove the flame, it stops burning. I don't know for PLA, but ABS is very happy to continue to burn. So, if temperatures won't exceed 70°C, petg is good choice.
Petg also has very good interlayer adhesion, so it doesn't break along the layers (like ABS does). It also makes support removal more difficult.
>>
>>1286380
No stesses and no heat, PLA
No stresses and low heat, PETG
Medium stresses and medium heat, ABS
No stresses and a bit hotter heat, Nylon
Stresses + heat, buy a steel/ alum one

>>1286378
I personally tend to stick with eSun, push plastic, atomic filament, toner plastics, make shaper and Essentium

Most filament makers are able to offer about the same tolerances both in diameter and roundness, it mostly falls onto consistency, location, name and colors/ blends available.
>>
>>1286380
>>1286387
Thanks for the advice, I guess ill buy a roll or two of brand name American PLA and go from there.
>>
>>1286386
Just went outside and checked: PLA does burn, but it's a slow burn, very small blue flame (and smells pretty nice).

ABS - wow. It just goes up in flames, smokes, and smells acrid.
>>
>>1286387
>>1286386
Ah thank you guys
I don't think I'll have any use cases that'll ever exceed even as low as 45C lol.
probably the hottest things I have are big LED but those I put big heatsinks on and.. a CPU in a raspberry pi or some other board but that doesn't touch the plastics

This is pretty exciting! does DIY archive threads?
>>
>>1286392
or nvm I'll just save the thread as a pdf

>>1286391
hahaha yea I saw those too ABS is oil based or something I was reading the chemical stuff of all of them a few hours ago (not that I understand it all) but seems a lot more flammable
PLA burns how sugar burns. Idk if you ever lit candy on fire or thrown candy in a fire pit but it kind of burns but is half dead while it does
>>
>>1286386
>ABS is very happy to continue to burn

ABS is actually used to make fuel grains for hybrid rockets


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kzrnGvD3W0
>>
>>1286381
>Hypercube Evolution
was that setup any better than the hypercube?
>>
>>1286546

Maybe if you have perfectly printed parts, perfectly cut frame and a ver flat table to assemble every thing and a set of precision squares.
>>
>>1286546
FDM printers in general aren't going to see much if any return from linear rails unless you had unsupported linear rods over a long distance
>>
File: maxresdefault.jpg (334 KB, 3000x1687)
334 KB
334 KB JPG
Want to make "long egg" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0TMVq3dQu4

But want custom shapes for whites and yokes

Ex, square tubing but heart shape in the middle, big round one with a finger in the middle etc...

Any heat resistant 3D filaments that are safe to boil eggs with?

How tall do hobby tier go normally?

Is it pretty smooth or would i need to sand or vapor bath it?
>>
>>1286763
The basic size is 20x20x20, but extending a printer vertically is not too hard. You'll want one with a bed that doesn't move much, either a delta or a CoreXY, on a prusa clone your prints would fuck up when they get tall.
The roughness depends on your nozzle diameter, it might be better to vapor bath. Food safety, PLA and PETG should be okay, don't know about ABS.
>>
>>1286741

I'm designing a cantilevered 3d printer as well for use with linear rails. If it turns out to be good, I'll make the conversion.

I want to convert my hypercube to a linear rail gantry just because then I will be 100% sure it won't flex or bow or twist or anything like that. Also use a simple X/Y stage rather than a CoreXY one because I won't have to worry about the belt tensions not being the same.
>>1286763
>Any heat resistant 3D filaments that are safe to boil eggs with?

Nope, you need something made from some kind of metal. Don't boil anything with any kind of plastic. That's how you get your xenoestrogens.
>>
>>1286798
Fuck. Pehaps i could use it ram in a greensand mold and cast aluminum.

Back to the drawing board. Thank u anon.
>>
>>1286803
Even if there were some kind of filament that could take the heat and was food safe, it would be one use only. Layer lines = bacteria traps.
>>
Looking to have 3 interchangeable glass beds with different coatings for different materials. What should I use for Petg, nylon, and abs? Ideally I would like something that will last for at least 10 prints before needing replacement
>>
>>1286798
Honestly you're probably over thinking it and you're going to waste money on rails. A supported rod will be good enough for a printer, even for large ones that cover like 2+ft. And you probably don't have to worry about the coreXY belts as long as they're approximately even. 3D printing isn't an ultra precise manufacturing method to begin with so you're fighting for a margin that spewing molten plastic can't really achieve in the first place.
>>
>>1287035
I-i just want my prints to be square
>>
>>1287322
Backlash from using belts is probably a bigger problem then. What you really want is ballscrew driven axes with linear rails
>>
File: replicapetor.jpg (126 KB, 1252x794)
126 KB
126 KB JPG
>>1287525

I think that's probably a joke but that would actually work very well (i.e: like the Trinus)

I want to keep at least some of my travel speed. I wonder if I can do at least 150mm/s like this (I currently do 350mm/s but print at 30-50 so whatever)
>>
>>1287322
Linear Advance works great with tuning...
>>
File: attachment.png (25 KB, 666x857)
25 KB
25 KB PNG
>>1287591
Isn't linear advance related to the extrusion itself?

BTW, does anyone know if it will hurt a GT2 idler if I attach it to an aluminum extrusion like this? Are they actually two bearings one on the top of the other, or just a single "long" bearing?
>>
>>1287596
You shouldnt need to bother lin advance unless you have bowden or printing flexible filament.

Shouldnt be a problem. There are bearings butted up. Make sure you use 2 washers between the extrusion and the idler so it only contacts the bearing and not the idler body. You can leave out the top washer.
>>
File: unwarp.png (53 KB, 916x604)
53 KB
53 KB PNG
How do i unbend a triangle mesh from stl?
For example i have a model like pic related, and i want to unwarp it to a straight column along an edge.
>>
>>1287596
It has tripled my print speed and acceleration when testing walls, only been a few days, can control slowdown so you don't need a high jerk that messes with backlash.

>>1287598
I have a very long bowden tube and a small nozzle, this change seems to work great for my setup.
>>
>>1287608

How much tuning do you need to do with linear advance?
>>
>>1287606
You could try using blender's Curve modifier but I'm not confident it'll work. Curves are a tricky thing and once done, usually can't be un-done.
>>
File: reduction.jpg (85 KB, 801x783)
85 KB
85 KB JPG
>>1287598
>Shouldnt be a problem. There are bearings butted up. Make sure you use 2 washers between the extrusion and the idler so it only contacts the bearing and not the idler body. You can leave out the top washer.

Well if they're touching at the inner race there should be no problem, since it would be the same as trying to compress pure steel with the bolt and t-nut

But if they're two bearings with some space in between, then tightening the bolt will squeeze the balls against the inner race, and they'll either wear much faster or straight up seize

Also

Arduino Mega is supposed to be able to do 10000 steps per second.

If I use a combination of 20 and 60 pulleys I'll have a belted reduction with a 1:3 ratio. I'd need 72000 steps per second to stay at the 300mm/s (at 80 steps/mm). Now, if I use a 16 pulley on the motor and a 20 pulley on the shaft, the ratio will be 1:1.25, right? Which would require 30.000 steps/s for 300mm/s and 10000 steps/s for 100mm/s, which is a pretty good travel speed, especially for a heavy gantry (Fusion 360 estimates it will weight 940g, but it's assuming the motors weight 538g, which is 200g more than what they actually weight according to my scale).
>>
>>1287612
IDK, I set the k factor to 80 in firmware and works for normal prints, but faster or thinner ones seems to need a bit more.
>>
>>1287612
Use this:
https://pastebin.com/q8gbYEzv

It will draw zigzags, with acceleration and deceleration at different K settings in the middle of the lines. The best setting should be where you dont have change in the width of the printed tracks.
>>
>>1287622
>>1287545
What software are you using here? I see a lot of people mocking up their builds like this and I'd like to do the same.
>>
File: trash.jpg (98 KB, 1135x922)
98 KB
98 KB JPG
>>1287635

It's Fusion 360, you can just download random parts in STEP/Solidworks/IGS/whatever format, stick them together and model some glue parts
>>
>>1287620
This might work, i need to fiddle with it a lot. Thank you
>>
>>1287596
They have two press fit bearings inside with a gap between them. Many of them (the chink ones) are fit with too much pressure. You need something between the idler and any other surface, and it's best if there is minimal pressure on the idler itself, else it will turn very difficult. The ideal mounting is to have a nut under the idler locking the screw in place. M5 nuts also have a better contact surface than M5 washers (the washers press against the outer rim of the idler).
>>
File: prusapack.png (2 KB, 295x92)
2 KB
2 KB PNG
My prusa is finally being prepared to be shipped! Is there anything I should know to prepare for my first printer?
>>
>>1287902
Get some hairspray
>>
>>1287902
mk2 or mk3?

If a kit take your time with the build and make sure everything is square
>>
Is there a guide to which brands of nylon filament are 645 or 618? None of the manufacturers say which kind they use, I imagine most use 645 though.
>>
>>1287921
What for?
>>1288081
Mk3 and it's a kit. The kit's pricey enough as it is
>>
Is the reprapguru v2 kit in amazon worth a buy? It would be my first time owning a printer, but I have used them in the past.
>>
File: IMG_20171130_155303.jpg (1.27 MB, 4160x3120)
1.27 MB
1.27 MB JPG
>install build plate adhesive from Aliexpress
>no bubbles when cold
>when bed os heated to ABS temps, this happens

Fuck, is this shit supposed to be for PLA only? It says i can use It for ABS in the listing

Tried it with PLA and now it is stuck forever. Fuck this shit, i'm going back to glass.
>>
>>1288161
Glass + Elmer's glue has never let me down.
>>
>>1288162
Hairspray was working just fine for both PLA and ABS, I just wanted a build surface that would let me use the inductive sensor.
>>
>>1288189
The reason people use glass is because when new it's very flat. Only double side milled metal would be close enough, extruded aluminum sheets or cast plates which regular finishing can be okay but allow for a ton of variance. Look into other ways of using that sensor like hvac tape or something, or get a bltouch even if it's worse and expensive.
>>
>>1288189
Fug you can't use a sensor on glass? My sensor just arrived but I love my glass bed.
>>
>>1288240
I actually "can" (not really because muh eddy currents), but I need to use a sheet of aluminum foil sandwiched between two 2mm glass plates, which doesn't look as good as just a sticker on the bed.

A sensor with a longer detection range should work just fine
>>
>>1288266
Try a metal spacer whose size is known precisely?
>>
>>1288268
Like CNC probes?

That would be no good for bed auto levelling
>>
What is the comfiest FOSS toolchain, and why is it OpenSCAD / Slic3r / Pronterface?
I picked up a MP Select Mini on CyberMonday when they were down to $150, and have been having the time of my life so far. I know I could have sprung for the next model up, but I like that this one fits on my tiny desk and makes tiny parts (this enhances comfiness).

Real question: is there any way to prevent filament from dripping from the extruder while idle / during heatup? I've been coping with this with a skirt, but just wondering if there is a way to prevent the filament void issue altogether.
>>
>>1288316
>Real question: is there any way to prevent filament from dripping from the extruder while idle / during heatup? I've been coping with this with a skirt, but just wondering if there is a way to prevent the filament void issue altogether.

I don't think so, but you could use a starting g-code command to make the nozzle go to a corner before it heats up (e.g: G0 X10 Y10)
>>
>>1288117
Spray on the aluminium heat bed to get the prints to stick, I'd recommend wella shockwaves 5strength as it works great for me. And doesnt coat anything you accidentally spray with a sort of sticky substance as others do, its more just a fine powder
>>
>>1288388
Doesn't MK3 come with that neat build plate you can print on without anything and then remove?
>>
Are acrylic frame printers worth using? Are they really that much worse than metal ones?
>>
>>1288277
Why? Can't you just place it at each corner and off set it by that much?
>>
File: IMG_20171201_192930.jpg (2.57 MB, 4160x3120)
2.57 MB
2.57 MB JPG
So the motions of my printer is a little jerky at times, I reckon I could improve the print quality a bit by lubing it up.

What cheap lubes are generally acceptable?

I know cooking oil and WD-40 aren't good.
>>
>>1288547
I use sewing machine oil
>>
>>1288557
Do you have to take the rods out or just put a drop around it?
>>
>>1288557
Does it collect lots of dust once oiled?
How often do you need to clean it?
>>
>>1288547
I use red lithium grease but I have linear rails. But as long as it doesn't degrade any of the plastic parts on your bearings any grease should be fine
>>
Anyone know if it's possible to use formlabs resins with the littlerp2 or any other DLP printer? I need something tough but with high resolution
>>
>>1286036
You're going to get that with any overhanging or bridging areas that the cooling on your printer can't handle. For that model you really should consider splitting it into three parts and gluing them together after printing. Add holes that you can use for alignment pins to make gluing them together easier.

The dome will be one piece upright.
The underside of the roof will be one piece printed upside down.
The foundation and posts will be the third piece upright.
>>
>>1288547
>>1288641
I use gun oil or lithium grease, works pretty well but collects a bit of grime at the end of travel - rails are clear and smooth, though.
>>
>>1288547
I just use 3in1 oil on my a8, just spray some on a piece of toilet paper and wipe the rails, lubricates pretty well and leaves a really thin coating so you only end up with a tiny little ring of dust around the ends where the linear bearings push it to.

Cheap but would recommend
>>
So I've decided to transition to a state in life where I consistently have enough projects or interests active at once to always have some cheap, easy, or fun thing I can do or tweak to advance one of my hobbies at any one time. I've decided that in tandem with some of my other projects, I'm going to build a 3D printer. Consistent with my other projects, I intend to go in depth off the bat and DIY it as cheaply but also as effectively as possible, anywhere I can trade ease of use for low cost and quality I will. Can you guys point me to the first resources I'm going to need to learn the basics of printer design and control and eventually assemble my own printer?
>>
File: 3d printer designs.png (2.17 MB, 1676x2788)
2.17 MB
2.17 MB PNG
>>1288807
>Can you guys point me to the first resources I'm going to need to learn the basics of printer design and control and eventually assemble my own printer?

Just download 3d printer models from github or grabcad, look at a lot of pictures of printer assembly manuals and "teardown"-type postings.

Even some commercial printers have the design files available for download.

What kind of equipment and materials do you have access to?
>>
Using slic3r, I'm finding that the generated support material is very difficult to remove. What setting would I adjust to make it easier to detach?
(I'm using PLA if this makes a difference in response.)
>>
>>1288815
Hand tools, a dremel and a cheap drill press. I live just outside a large city so materials and components locally are not a problem.
>>
>>1288859
Just print everything you can't buy. For everything else there's misumi
>>
http://www.news-leader.com/story/news/local/ozarks/2017/12/01/bbb-issues-warning-springfield-3-d-printing-supply-company-maker-geeks/912915001/

HAHAHAHA
tl;dr BBB issues a warning to anyone buying from makergeeks after 3+ years of pulling the same shit. Of not delivering and refusing to give refund after 4 + months of not shipping shit.
>>
File: maxresdefault.jpg (178 KB, 1920x1080)
178 KB
178 KB JPG
>>1288859
That's enough to make a MDF 3d printer with drawer guides
>>
>>1288807
Just follow a reprap guide to making a prusa i3. Then you have a list of parts and general assembly guidelines.
>>
What speed do you guys normally print at? I have cura set at 50mm/s, but I am worried that that may be too slow.
>>
>>1289140
60/ms on my i3 mk2.

Have gone higher but preffer 60ms. If its very detailed work i scale it down to 40ms.
>>
so as a complete noob I can buy a Cel Robox for a third of its usual price. Is that a good purchase? I don't like the proprietary print head that is not user serviceable and the printing area seems to be on a smaller side. is that a good deal?
>>
>>1286394
ABS is acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene copolymer so it burns a little like styrofoam (polystyrene) with some hydrogen cyanide from the acrylonitrile thrown in for good measure.
t. chemistry nerd
>>
>>1286902
A thin sheet of PEI stuck to one of side of the glass with double sided tape is my go to for ABS, and just about anything really. It also gives some versatility as you can flip it over and use the glass side. The PEI is a little pricey but near indestructible; I've scraped a hot nozzle across it many times with nary a scratch.

https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B0013HQ7B0?th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Adhesive-Transfer-468MP-Multiple/dp/B007Y7D5NQ?th=1&psc=1
>>
File: belt path.jpg (192 KB, 1102x662)
192 KB
192 KB JPG
I was trying to figure out a better way to attach the motor to the x-axis extrusion and realized I could attach the idler pulleys to the motor itself. I only need brass standoffs with long enough threads, since the aluminum plates are 3.175mm.

Then I realized something which I thought was quite interesting: if I move the motor to within the Z-axis rods and use two more pulleys, I can actually mount a second motor to the other side with ease. I can then stack the belts and add a second x-carriage, just like the BCN3D Sigma. (belt path in purple).

Does Marlin support two x-carriages?
>>
how cheap can you get with a reprap printer if you source all the non-plastic parts yourself and print the plastics yourself?
>>
>>1289528
Probably approximately the same total cost but possibly with better quality
>>
>>1289528

Often it's more expensive because you tend to go for nicer parts when sourcing yourself. Like i didn't *need* corrosion-resistant 10mm stainless steel linear rods but they were so cool...

"Oh hey let's get ball-spring t-nuts for the extrusions because they're so nice the way they stay in place when you insert them."

"E3D clone? Nah man lets get an original one, for better prints and less jams"

"if i get trinamic stepper drivers it will be so silent..."

The list goes on...
>>
>>1284086
you know the word for a plotter that uses pens is just "Plotter"?
>>
>>1289575
Not really because you also have inkjet and cutting plotters
>>
>>1289192
yeh, I'd get it for 500 if it is on sale, no more.
>>
>>1289575
>>1289645
I have to disagree, inkjet is a printer however the paper feed is.
Cutter is a cutter,I would never call a cutter a plotter
Plotter == pen
>>
>>1289700

Alright, maybe you're right

I'm curious as to how old pen plotters can be so fast and accurate and pretty much silent in comparison to 3d printers. Could it be just because they used regular dc motors rather than steppers?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iziP0cQhOFY
>>
>>1287701
>pic
this guy gets it
>>
>>1288960
Realistically how shit is this and what is the probability the owner built it purely for his amusement
>>
>>1289670
yeah, I can get for around $450, but I'm still undecided...
>>
>>1289779
>he doesn't know about /ourguy/ Matthias

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mPkwIG7og44
>>
File: wiggly.gif (1.25 MB, 440x360)
1.25 MB
1.25 MB GIF
Does this trigger you, anon?
>>
File: missing pulley.jpg (81 KB, 832x767)
81 KB
81 KB JPG
>>1289453

This is what it looks like

It's missing a few pulleys, the posts on which they will be placed and a few aluminum parts
>>
>>1289961
remember to always clean your balls
>>
anyone want a drawer slide 3drag style printer?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEK7g3o_Ens
>>
>>1290067
You'd expect a printer like that to print like garbage because of muh backlash but it turns out some of them print very well
>>
File: e91.jpg (8 KB, 200x213)
8 KB
8 KB JPG
>>1290020
>>
I just purchased a cheap chink 3D printer pen to fix broken parts and test filament that I'm planning on making with a filastrder
on that note I've got 2 questions
> What useful things can the 3D pen do other than fix broken parts
And
> Is it worth buying a filastrder? I want to experiment with recycling HDPE into filament
>>
>>1289162
Use linear advance. It makes 60ms look like 30
>>
>>1290225
You can just buy HDPE, but be warned that it's known for being a hard to use filament because layers don't stick and it warps even worse than ABS when cooling

Filastruder is only worth it if you print A LOT and have a lot of failed prints
>>
>>1290262
I print a lot so I thought that making my own ABS from raw pellets would save some money
I didn't know about HDPE not liking to stick so I guess I can use that in the pen for just fucking around
>>
>>1290301
I've gone through 6 rolls of ABS in 3 months and I want to make more of a profit selling prints
>>
>>1288557
>>1288641
>>1288727
>>1288740
Do you think something like this would work well enough?

F02002 Tarot P.T.F.E. Grease Lubricant,Antirust oil TL2350 For Trex 250-700 Metal/feathering/main shaft
http://s.aliexpress.com/vmYFfeEN
(from AliExpress Android)
>>
Has anyone here used a 3d printing pen to bond prints before?
I don't like how it looks with glue as it can sometimes come out messy and you can see the place where the 2 items were bonded together.
>>
File: maxresdefault[1].jpg (81 KB, 1280x720)
81 KB
81 KB JPG
Guys i highly recommend making lithopanes for christmas gifts.

Ive 3d printed 10+ pictures and they came out amazingly.

http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/
>image settings>positive image
>download stl

Image related is rclife or something. If you need more infomartion on how to.
>>
>>1290226
thanks man, Ive been learning about that now. Works!
>>
>>1290525
It's pretty great. I was able to get my printer up to 90ms and still have it look great but I backed it down to 60 so u don't put too much stress on the machine. I only really go balls to the wall 90+ when I'm in a hurry
>>
File: 313108794.jpg (101 KB, 590x591)
101 KB
101 KB JPG
Is it actually bad for belts to use ball bearings as idlers?
>>
Imma build a 500x500x500 hypercube. I plan to do pcb drilling and engraving too. For a 200x200x150 volume they recommend a 2020 profile.
What size aluminium profile should i use? Do i go with 2020 anyway?
>>
>>1290822
I got a 300x300 hypercube mod, the bigger issue is the rods, they start to weigh more and you have to lock your nuts to prevent vibration sag.

I raised my gantry to fit at the corners as one piece to reduce this issue. also IDK what kind of bed you plan on getting or how your x axis will fare at higher speeds.
>>
File: heh.jpg (127 KB, 321x667)
127 KB
127 KB JPG
>>1290822
>>1290869
>using rods on a large-scale printer
>using rods at all
>>
>>1290898
I didnt even mention rods cunt.

>>1290869
Ill use MGN type rails for the xy, and 4 leadscrew for the bed.
I have no ideas for the bed now, maybe ill slap together 4 200x200 pcb beds under some aluminium sheet.
>>
>>1290903
You can get 500x500 silicone heaters from aliexpress at some $60
>>
>>1290903
>and 4 leadscrew for the bed.

Not worth the trouble

>>1290822
30x30
>>
>>1290903
Does stacking heating elements really sound like a good idea to you? Just get a keenovo, or however it's spelled, AC heating pad. They even have ones that come finished with a separate control box. Keep in mind, they are still chinkpads, just higher grade ones, so use discretion.
>>
>>1291061
>AC

That's scary. Are there 24v versions of them?
>>
File: IMG_20171205_142137_HHT.jpg (452 KB, 1500x2000)
452 KB
452 KB JPG
this just happened to me when trying to get the stuck filament out of the nozzle, ugh
>>
File: smoke_nozzle.jpg (79 KB, 748x1000)
79 KB
79 KB JPG
>>1291082
smoke comes from the nozzle when I do heat it up. I'm just going to leave it.
>>
>>1291083
>smoke coming from a Teflon-lined hotend
>dismissive ugh
>just going to leave it
>>
>>1291061
>>1291079
I got a 48V 16A psu, supply is not a problem.

>>1290904
Neat

>>1290947
Wat do? 2leadscrew + 2rails?

>>1291083
Inhale it!
>>
>>1291083
PVD
Plastic Vapor Deposition
>>
>>1291130
>Wat do? 2leadscrew + 2rails?

One leadscrew + 2 rails

Some designs use even a single linear rail for the Z axis
>>
>>1291130
3 screws

>>1291193
That's just a cantilever and will be subject to more vibration than designs with more reinforcement. Of course you can argue it doesn't matter this accuracy level but it will make leveling a pain. The same goes for two screws. Rails still have play along the axis of the rail so you can push one down and the other up, two screws will be a balancing act. Makes bed leveling a pain.
>>
>>1291083
That's literally a neurotoxin chemical... Do you morons even read the safety documents before playing with miniaturized versions of industrial manufacturing tools?
>>
>>1291079
Get a gfci adapter and properly ground your chassis and you'll be fine even if something goes wrong. You already wired a chink LED psu didn't you?
>>
File: lazer canon.jpg (57 KB, 960x720)
57 KB
57 KB JPG
Wanhao i3 v2.1(prusa clone)
Prima Value PLA
205 on the hotend/60 on the bed
12.5mm/s
printed vertically
22.5% infil
no supports
no brim or raft
13,5 hour print time
135mm in total length.

how can i improve the quality? would Z braces help?
>>
File: ffs....jpg (35 KB, 519x259)
35 KB
35 KB JPG
Se we bought a BQ Hephestos and build it but there's several problems we have and we haven't been able to print anything yet.

The X axis seems to be shorter than intended, whenever we hit "level plate" and it reaches the point 0, it hits that sensor and the whole printer resets. Then, the printer shows the X axis has a range from 0 to 215, yet around 210 it hits the limit and can't go further, forcing the engine.

Then, the Y Axis, the plate, can't even reach the sensor, the metal base below the plate touches the engine and can't move further. The space it can indeed move is around 160, trying to go further either won't do.

We can't calibrate it because every time he start the "level plate" proces, the X axis hits the sensor and resets the whole thing. We also doubt we build it shorter because in both cases the distance any axis can move is determined by the metal rods in each segment, and they can't be any longer.

What the fuck is happening.
>>
File: Dolan6.jpg (74 KB, 1689x951)
74 KB
74 KB JPG
>>1291082
>The degradation by-products can be lethal to birds,[52] and can cause flu-like symptoms[53] in humans—see polymer fume fever.

>>1291154
pic
>>
>>1291298
Well first off you should get rid of the engines and replace them with electric stepper motors.
>>
Anyone know where I can get fite resistant plastic film for an enclosure
>>
>>1290225
>HDPE
similar question to this guy
I've always wanted to experiment with truly exotic filaments like PP or LDPE
Has anyone tried any of those yet?
>>
>>1291343
PP Sucks at unimaginable level.
>>
>>1291298
Pack it up and send it back.
Now you will know for the next time that you should always listen the advice from the strangers on the internet.

Although I think you didn't assemble it correctly. It has been around for a while and something like that would be fixed already. Post pics.
>>
>>1291357
Actually we've been looking at it and found a fix for most of the problems. Turns out a couple of sensors were set incorrectly, fixim them fixed their problem (X now works, Z too). The problem comes with Y.

We checked the manual back and forth, several times. Everything is build as intented, but when the Y axis moves to find it's 0 point, it goes AWAY from the sensor. We have no idea how can this happen when all the other motors work fine now.
And even then, at 0 point in the Y axis, the plate still hits the motor and goes over it, leveling a bit. Pic related is the metal part that holds the plate when it gets over the motor. This is around 1 cm before it even hits the sensor.
>>
>>1291251
>Of course you can argue it doesn't matter this accuracy level but it will make leveling a pain.

Wait until you have 4 leadscrews to adjust.

BTW, Felix prints really well, it's just overpriced as fuck.
>>
>>1291370
From the picture it looks like the bracket is kind of crooked. It looks like one side of the motor is a bit higher then the other side. If you untighten the nuts on threaded rods and the bolts on the motor, can you push a motor a little bit down?

For y axis: Look at wireing. Is it possible that you wired it incorrectly? Maybe used wrong wires?
Other wise you can change direction in firmware. Or you might be able to turn the motor around, so it would spin the other way and pull in other direction.
>>
>>1291393
We fixed the motor and it spins in the right direction now, we still can't find a fix for the motor height, though. It's just that there's no real way to change the height itself. IT seems it should be able to print small things, but bigger will have this "bumping" problem that I'm sure will greatly affect the result. We'll do some tests tomorrow.
>>
>>1291396
The motor looks rotated upwards. Maybe you should unscrew all the nuts on that threaded rod (also those on each end). I am sure there would be enough wiggle room to rotate a motor a little bit downwards. Otherwise make a holes in a bracket a little bigger with drill or a file or something. From the picture it looks like it needs to be only 1 or 2mm lower.
>>
>>1291082
>>1291083
My printer has smoked similar to this (not nearly as bad) when changing from PLA to ABS
That's normal though right?
I've also noticed that ABS lets out a little smoke too
>>
>>1291472

I never noticed any smoke when printing ABS, but then again I only print un-pigmented ABS.
>>
>>1291472
All metal? With no oil?

It might be PLA, which is burning at the higher temps. That's why cold/atomic pulls are important
>>
>>1291403
IT isn't rotated upwards, it's the pic that makes it look like that.
For now, the plate only goes above the motor in the last 4cm, so the 16 other cm are fine, meaning our work zone is just slighty reduced. We plan on calibrating with that dead zone, then print a modified piece for the motor and replace it.
>>
What are you going to print for xmas, /diy/?




Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.