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Old thread >>1280856

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute.

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
youtu.be/w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones

>SLA&DLP
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
http://www.nanodlp.com/

>SLS
http://sintratec.com/ A SLS kit.

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc
>>
Fleshlight bro where are you
>>
>>1291984
>>what programs do you make your own files with
design spark mechanical
and sketchup are very easy programs to use
design spark is very similar to sketchup but it is like a hybrid of freecad + sketchup

it's windows only. I used it before it was great unfortunately doesn't work in wine on linux.
>>
>>1292074
There's two! One for silicone and the other for thermoplastics.


Inre tpe, been too lazy to print, haven't gone for a third cast. Still haven't bought more teflon tape and still no doc/report on my end.
>>
Did anyone else buy a prusa mk3 and have this issue with it not shipping?
>>
>>1292276
Never had that issue ordering the mk2. Shipping to the states?
>>
We're trying to do our first printing with a BQ Hephestos, but we're unable to manage to make the ABS stick to the plate. We do not have a heating bed.
Is it just REALLY hard to make it stick to the plate or what?
>>
So I got my first printer, a Monoprice Mini V2. It was cheap, and I wanted one. Can't really decide what I want to print, but I want some sort of multi-part assembly that will slowly come together.

Suggestions?
>>
>>1292323
For ABS you absolutely need a heated bed. For PLA there are workarounds, but for ABS it's essential.
>>
>>1292360
Fuck.
Is there no workaround of any kind? We've been trying to calibrate it, rising it and lowering it milimeter by milimeter. Sometimes it does stick to the plate but then after some time it unsticks and fucks the entire printing.
>>
>>1292074
Have too much stuff to do atm.
Im planning to do a Christmas tree ornament for the occasion.
>>
>>1292376
You shouldn't really print ABS unless you really need it and you definitely should get a heatbed as soon as possible, it's day and night printing with one. ABS has serious problems with warping even if you do manage to get it to stick, you need a heated bed and an enclosure to get decent results.
>>
>>1292386
A printing bed is completly out of our budget right now. Unles there's a way to get a cheap one.

Would PLA fix some of the issues or at least let us print something from start to end?
>>
>>1292388
A chink heated bed is $10, but you also need a power supply at least around 240W, ideally 360W, to run it. Alternatively an AC silicone heater can be used, but for that you again need an SSR which brings you up to about the same cost (though the AC one is better).
PLA is the easiest material to print, yes, you would have a decent chance of getting a passable print. PETG is also a great material, but only easy to print on a heated bed, without it just go with PLA.
>>
>>1292389
Is there somewhere where I can get all the materials for a heated bed for 50-75 bucks?
>>
>>1292390
eBay, Aliexpress if you can wait 2-3 weeks to receive the parts, will be a total of $30. If you want them more quick, it depends on where you live. Amazon might have the same chink parts for about 50% higher cost but faster shipping.
>>
>>1292391
'Aight, we'll take a look to all options. Are heated beds comaptible between printers? we have a BQ Hephestos, which is a modified Prusa i3 so... should kits for prusa i3 be compatible?
>>
>>1292393
There are two chink heatbed sizes that might be relevant for you, the 200x200 and the 200x300. I have no idea if the mounting holes will be the same, but they adhere to some standard, at least the 200x200 should fit a prusa i3.
If you get a silicone heater, you just stick it to the underside of the current bed, should come with heat resistant tape on one side.
>>
>>1292308
Yeah
>>
>>1292410
Im in Norway so my shit went on the roads all the way. Proabubly some major jew trickery going on with your shipping options.
>>
>>1292323
It's really easy if you have a heated bed that can go to 100ºC, hairspray and an enclosed printer
>>
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I made a wood pla Majora's Mask magnet. I had the temp up too high so there was stringing and loss of detail, but it looks decent.
>>
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>>1292627
>Papa John's
>>
Sort of related, but does anyone know where I can get a large, rigid custom shape plate made? I have a print but it's like 280x280mm and I Need like 18x18". And something more rigid than plastic, like aluminum or carbon fiber filled resin, for the motherboard tray of a PC case.
>>
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>>1291984
>https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_361425.html?currency=USD&vip=760163&gclid=CjwKCAiAjanRBRByEiwAKGyjZTwsio1vDeyIS_2obEziQ9eOVmBr1rceAx6scnUvhLhDHNdX1l1gCBoCAWEQAvD_BwE
Is this a decent printer? Or is a $125 printer too good to be true? Are there any cheaper printers, or is this as cheap as it gets?
>>
>>1292742
>asking if $125 is too good to be true and if there are any cheaper printers in the same post
It's a very small and barebones printer, wouldn't recommend it as you'd immediately need to somehow add a heated bed to it and probably swap out the PSU to run the bed, and even then it only has a 100x100 print area.
>>
>>1292744
What if I dont have a heated bed?
>>
>>1292753
You're going to regret it very quickly
>>
>>1292754
Okay then, can I install a heated bed? How do I install a heated bed?
>>
>>1292768
Buy one that fits, make sure you have enough wattage to run it and that your control board supports it (it probably does), hook up the cables. I don't know if the chinks make any 100x100 heated beds.
>>
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>>1292742
No, get a Tevo Tarantula, add a second leadscrew for the Z axis and replace the acrylic parts with aluminum ones. That will make it a good printer.
>>
>>1292359
Try this T-Rex Skeleton. It's a popular design.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275091
>>
>>1292674
Got a free pizza for attending a function, so I figured I'd take it home.
>>
>>1292802
Are there any Tevo Tarantulas cheaper than $125?
>>
>>1292383
Gods bless you pervo poster. Keep making unicorn horns and strange fungi.
>>
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>>1291984
are there any more sales coming up that i should look out for?
i'm looking to buy a monoprice select mini v2 if it's going to be on sale again soon
>>
This might be a little bit off topic, but I'm looking to buy/make a 2.5D machine.

My ultimate goal is to put in a piece of paper on the print bed (foam) and have the machine run a needle (thin sewing needle) in the x-y plane and prick tiny holes in predetermined places. I only need the needle to go in the z-direction about 5mm, so it's not really 3D.
Can anyone guide me to a machine that might be easily repurposed for that end.
I have unlimited access to some 3D printers (ultimaker) at uni to pront parts for it if needed.
>>
>>1293554
Sounds like a modified pen plotter would do what you need.
>>
>>1293562
You are right, I forgot these exist.
I think that will solve my problem. thanks
>>
>>1293562
if he has access to a printer, he could just use that for pricking holes.
get a modded carriage or a holder for the needle and just home/ level, move the z axis up and you got yourself a pin pricker.
>>
Has anyone printed pp succesfully?
>>
E3d V6 clone good? I’m using my stock one and it’s working great.
>>
>>1292276
It's christmas, postal service is overloaded.
>>
>>1293891
moved from clone v5 to v6 clone, got to say it was a good move, but now that I want hotter filaments and dual extrusion, I still feed limited. I'm looking into the mini hotend or the small printerbot hotends for a interesting setup.

spend a bit more and get an all metal with the new style thermistor and block.

idk about volcano clone by itself, max I can go top speed with my (not volcano) .5 nozzle limits my temp to 190 with light fan, if I want to print with a bigger nozzle or different filaments fast, I'd buy a clone and a volcano upgrade, rather than just a volcano kit.
>>
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Just got my fourth printer setup. Have two more select minis arriving today.
>>
>>1293996
While we're at it, are there any new good hot-ends? E3D seems to be pretty complacent with theirs. Was kinda hoping to see a hotend with hotswap nozzles or something using a locking lever to insert nozzle or something.
>>
Does anyone have any advice the nozzle for the Anycubic Mega? The metal heated bit that the nozzle screws into is made of tinfoil and tries to strip every time I replace a brass nozzle. Am I doing something wrong or is it a low quality part that could be upgraded?
>>
How stable is the CR-10 bed (300x300x400)? The 400x400x400 version that has 2 support rails but feels too big for me, the Anet has too many problems.
>>
>>1292202
Design spark mechanical looks great, thanks champ
>>
>>1292376
yes, enclose your printer and put a heater on max setting blowing into the enclosure and never turn the heater off

you can get it up to like 70C if you're lucky
>>
>>1292202
You can get a lot of professional cad programs educational version for free.
I know for sure Creo is available like that.
>>
>>1294229
oh but also a heating bed is probably cheaper.
>>
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How do I keep this from happening without cranking infill way up and adding a ton of top layers?
>>
>>1294260
did you calculate e-steps?
also, modify extrusion width.
>>
>>1294263
>calculating e-steps

I did it by measuring how much filament comes out vs how much I told it to extrude and so on, but that was before I update my Marlin so maybe that value was overriden
>>
>>1294267
if the value is stored in EEPROM, then it probably did not change. its good to double check though. although, this could be the fault of having the wrong nozzle diameter.
>>
>>1293996
Thanks I appreciate the reply. I’ll use mine after I finished all my printer recommended upgrades.
I can’t print nicely with it so using my stock first right now to get the best carriage. The one I printed had some wobble and play.
>>
>>1294267
you have to measure how much filament goes in the extruder not how much comes out of it
>>
Now that 4k projectors are getting affordable, would the LittleRP with a 4k projector offer an improvement in accuracy over 1080p? Or would the extra resolution go to waste?
>>
>>1294267
>>1294283
>>1294263

Btw, two previous prints with this same filament came out perfect

>>1294315
I guess I'll have to do it again then

How about bowden tube backlash?

>>1294318
Resolution is high enough for the print size, mabe 4k would allow for bigger build volume with the same resolution as projector-based resin printers (which look really clumsy). LCD printers have a high enough resolution already.
>>
>>1294369
>Resolution is high enough for the print size, mabe 4k would allow for bigger build volume with the same resolution as projector-based resin printers (which look really clumsy). LCD printers have a high enough resolution already.

IIRC 1080p is still like 30 micron resolution or something on the littleRP, and worse on the littleRP2 I guess since it has a bigger build volume. Not good enough for absolute precision when you also add material shrinkage on top of that.
>>
>>1294260
Jesus Christ, what printer do you use?
>>
>>1294571
looks like the monoprice affect
>>
>>1294571
Home made one
>>
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I'm working on a laser projector project and a guy who will print it advised me to use metal rods to connect mirror holders to the base, the angle of mirror will be adjustable up to about 10 degrees (or might be less)

but there'll be a problem with inserting the last rod as there will be no space to place it there, because of the mirror holder on the sides

so I was thinking about making it differently, maybe even ditching the rods, but I've never printed anything before and I'm wondering if it can be done with snap fit joints or something like that

btw it might be spinning with about 1200rpm
mirror holder dimensions: 24x10x3mm
base radius: ~250mm
>>
>>1294044
what the hell do you print, and do you sell it?
>>
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>>1294681
>what the hell do you print, and do you sell it?
Scartch-built Nerf blasters. I sell the hardware sets so people can print their own. But I also sell them as kits or assembled blasters as well as accessories and upgrade parts. The link to my Etsy shop is in the description.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150

I've shipped out 180 of them since June and have orders going out to the 230th.

I just got two more Monoprice Select Minis setup on a different shelf yesterday so I'm now managing 6 printers in 4-1/2 shift intervals.
>>
>>1294686
I hoped that was going to be a gif of a reciprocating dildo
>>
>>1294044
does this cost you a lot in electricity to run them all at the same time?
>>
>>1294707
Not him, but small printers use like 70-100W on average, so they cost under $.02 per hour to run
>>
>>1294686
Have you looked into just getting the parts injection molded?
>>
>>1294719
Not him, but the cost is literally never within reach for hobbyists like us. To have the molds made for all the parts would be tens of thousands of dollars.
>>
>>1294719
Not worth the effort and not economical even if you only do 1k parts. And that gun would need around 3-6 tools to do.
>>
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>>1294719
I started off making them under the premise of casting them myself and even that was becoming too much of an investment AND too labor-intensive to do.

I don't have thousands of preorders to provide the startup capital to afford injection-molding.

With 6 printers I will be able to produce 2 to 3 whole blasters per day plus a few accessory prints in-between. After some small revisions 80% of the parts can now be printed on a 120mm build area so if I need to scale production up at some point I can just buy another monoprice select mini.

The hobby is way way larger than it used to be, but what I'm selling is still somewhat niche, I don't live in Singapore, and I'm trying to do this entirely on my own. My workspaces are a single closet full of printers, and office for assembly, and a shed where I cut all the hardware sets to length.
>>
>>1294763
Have you considered resin casting services? Some resins are on par with conventional thermoplastics
>>
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>>1294767
>Some resins are on par with conventional thermoplastics
They promise to be, but even the highest impact-rating polyurethanes I've tried have lost a significant percentage of their strength as soon as pigments are added to them. I was using Alumilite Performance 80D can it managed to have properties slightly worse than PLA.

Resin-cast parts are also somewhat labor intensive to produce. And at the pour volumes most of my parts are at the cure times are fairly long (6 to 8 hours @ 40psi).

I produced the first 12 of these with mostly pressure-cast parts and it was a ton of work and much more expensive of an investment than just printing the parts. There's also the issue of being tied down with a certain part revision because you've poured a mold. If you want to revise a part you have to repour the mold. And silicone worth using for this is fairly expensive.
>>
Are there extruders with exiting holes thiner than the default ones? My extruder's printer is 0.4mm and I was wondering if there are thinner ones for more accuracy and where to buy them.
>>
>>1294770
Look into innovative polymers, bjb, and ptm&w. They offer good industrial grade resins used in actual vehicles and machinery/tooling. But they're more expensive and toxic. Smooth-on and alumilite are for artists making disposable props
>>
>>1294778
Go on your 3dprinting supplies marketplace of choice (even amazon) and search "nozzle." Make sure you change the size in your slicer.
>>
>>1294783
Is it necessary to make any more changes or just buy the piece, replace it and it's ready to go?
>>
>>1294787
mostly, unless you got a mini hotend or something with a thermistor integrated nozzle, then you are stuck with a .4 mm nozzle for everything unless you can machine it yourself
>>
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>>1294781
Very few of the products on offer from any of those companies even list Izod impact ratings. I compared 18 different products across 5 different brands. I was considering Innovative Polymers but their system is twice the price per unit of volume compared to anything else, and it's harder to find suppliers for.

But anyways, I'm not likely to go back to casting because of how time-consuming and messy it is to have to pour molds, pot them, pull molds, pry parts, sand/drill parts to tolerance, and then have to deal with however many reject parts I produced. I didn't get anything from the cast parts that was of a worthwhile benefit over just scaling up my printing operation.

It's infinitely cheaper in time and money to buy another printer than to try to scale up casting. If I were making much smaller parts, with much finer details, and less of a requirement for dimensional accuracy it would be a different story.
>>
>>1294789
It can be unscrewed, we checked that already. do I need to make changes during printing itself (less speed or something) or the printer knows how to handel this change in size?
>>
why does Cura still not have an option for tree branch supports

I can't seem to manage to make supports that are useful while still being easy to remove so I end up needing to throw the model into Meshmixer to add supports before slicing with Cura
>>
>>1294807
As someone mentioned, just change the nozzle size in your slicer and that should take care of it.
>>
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I made a hard drive sandwich. I'm halfway considering trying to print an entire pc case now
>>
So what upgrades are generally worth it on a cr10s? I have a macewen mk8 extruder on the way as well as a swisstech all metal hot end. Is there anything else that be good to add to my meme machine?
>>
>>1295326
Fang mount, quieter fans, bed levelling thumb turns, anti strain bracket if it's not the box, enclosure, bed insulation, octopi.
>>
>>1295272
Go for it. I was thinking of doing the same but with minimal 3d printing and more 10 or 15mm aluminum extrusions and laser cut panels from ponoko.
>>
>>1292742
There's a huge-ass sale on the CR10, I just ordered mine. Still, if you're planning on a $125 printer, I doubt $320 sounds great.
>>
>>1295272
Holy shit dude, thanks so much for this idea
I have a case too small for my motherboard, my hard drive fucking sits on the table outside the computer, and I have a liquid cooler sitting freely in there.
>>
>>1295426
Thank you, the mount looks ridiculous but i'll give it a try with the rest of the stuff.
>>
there will be a filastruder sale for a duet wifi this week, wondered if it would be a good board to move from a 8bit board.
what should be the usd price I should be looking for in a quality 32 bit board?

I have octopi, so wifi and shit is an afterthought but I want some trinamic drivers (all I know is duet wifi has different ones than normal/ intelligent prusa ones) that can do the silent step features and dont care about integrated endstops as long as it can drive better than 8bit, 16step (I dont want the 32bit 32step smoothie clones ones though, I can spend more than 50$ on a good board)
>>
>>1295509
sorry I meant cool step not stealth chop with quiet running, I need the extra amps, if I wanted stealth chop I would get 2208 with my current setup, can get them for 7-8 bucks each.
>>
>>1295509
if you want the silent drivers you might as well get it. You'll need a 32-bit driver to use the higher steppings for the "silent" stepping. 8-bit is good for 1/16 steppings, maybe 1/32. But 1/128 or w/e is out of the question at any reasonable speed.
>>
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>>1295430
>10 or 15mm aluminum extrusions and laser cut panels.
not a bad idea. personally, I used an old, scrap, steel cover panel I happened to have, and reinforced with 1/2" square steel stock. Pic related(still kind of a WIP). I built this partially as a learning experience, and partially to buy into the flat board PC meme. But up until now, I was careful to fully support the hardware directly on the frame. That HDD bracket is my first attempt at a major structural piece, and is the only thing holding that HDD in place. I am really pleased with how well it turned out. But I don't think I would try to build anything without some type of metal skeleton to build around

>>1295499
yeah, you seriously need to fix that shit. If I can give you bit of advice, I would say start small so you can get a feel for it. Just try to make it work for now, and worry about making it look nice later

Also plan ahead for shrinkage and warping with your printed parts. I dont know if you can tell from that pic I posted, but I designed those HDD brackets with precise screw holes in the middle, and sliding screw holes for the rest.
>>
So whats the word on Resin printers these days?

Last I looked there were a few in development that weren't stupidly expensive and seemed like they would work decently.
>>
>>1294618
Ich got an anet e10 and Dunning kruger is fucking strong with me.
>>
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I have a few questions regarding printing and shit.

Does the 3D printer consume a lot of energy? Is it more or less than the average computer?
Do I need special paint to color printed things (PLA) or the average spray base and colors will do the job?
Also is there a way to smooth PLA printings?
>>
>>1295674
From what I've heard the heated bed is what consumes the most power when heating up but when up to temp the whole printer should tick over with double digit wattage. I've got no figures for you though.
>>
>>1295674
i recommend a spray primer as a base coat on anything, preferably on a sanded part.

when printing, it probably wont go past 400w peak, and its not like its always on. Its not really an issue.

if you're barely comfortable with the idea of acetone vapor smoothing, you wont be comfortable smoothing PLA. outdoors/fumehood territory.
>>
>>1295702
>i recommend a spray primer as a base coat on anything, preferably on a sanded part.
Pretty much what I expected.

>when printing, it probably wont go past 400w peak, and its not like its always on. Its not really an issue.
One of my roomates was being obnoxious about it because he said it could raise our electric bill too much. He sepnds more than 12h in his computer everyday, so I'm sure he consumes way more than the printer.

>if you're barely comfortable with the idea of acetone vapor smoothing, you wont be comfortable smoothing PLA. outdoors/fumehood territory.
I have space in my house to fuck around with vapors. So it works finde with PLA, right?
>>
Is there a way to improve how the printing material sticks to the plate without buying a heated bed? We've been able to print several things, but from time to time some unstick from the plate and fuck it up, and it's pretty much impossible to print anything that needs morer than 3 hours.

We're using hair fixer for now. Would an actual fixer for 3D printing improve that much?
>>
>>1295674
>Does the 3D printer consume a lot of energy?
Two incandescent light bulbs worth.
>Is it more or less than the average computer?
Roughly yes.
>Do I need special paint to color printed things (PLA) or the average spray base and colors will do the job?
No. Only laser-sintered parts really need fine-spray primers because their surface texture is that of sandpaper.
>Also is there a way to smooth PLA printings?
Sand them or acetone vapor.
>>
>>1295705
>Is there a way to improve how the printing material sticks to the plate without buying a heated bed?
No
>>
>>1295721
>Two incandescent light bulbs worth
Perhaps this would have been a reasonable explanation about 20 years ago. Although it wouldn't have since there is a huge range of incandescent lamps, the power rating more than doubles just within the most common values
>>
>>1295724
>Wah

It's going to depend on the maximum rating of a given printer.

I have small ones rated for 150 watts maximum and some rated for 300 watts maximum, but those figures assume that everything is running at full-tilt. And given how printers operate they never manage to do that. They draw 70% of their rating when trying to reach temperature, but once they've heated up and the steppers start running they're down to 50% of their rating or less.
>>
>>1295705
>Is there a way to improve how the printing material sticks to the plate without buying a heated bed?
There's nothing that will do as well as a heated bed. When printing ABS you absolutely need it IMO. But if you're having problems with PLA on glass, you could try glue stick, or a textured build surface.
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>>1295734
>glue stick
wouldn't that leave a lot of leftovers on the plate after any printing?
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>>1295736
If you use purple dissolving glue stick you can periodically rinse the plate with warm water to get rid of the residue.
Protip: have at least two glass plates so you can easily swap them out as needed.
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>>1295545
The only things I think really need metal are the motherboard mounting plate and gpu/expansion slot brackets. Since those are the only heavy items that needs a lot of support. And the frame of course. Everything else can probably printed. Fans and water cooling radiators can get distributed over large spaces so a thick enough plastic will probably be fine. Hdd cages/brackets can be plastic, 5.25" too if you're into that, PSUs sit on the bottom so those are fine too.
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HTC Vive has this accessory that costs $100. It's just a bunch of plastic, foam padding, and cheap over ear headphones. I got a 3d printer, never modeled before tho. How hard would it be to recreate something like this, and will I get sued if I share it online?
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>>1295787
If you're going for just the strap, you'd probably be fine. There are plenty of strap mods for the Vive before the DAS came out.

I have the DAS, I'd be willing to check some of your measurements when you're modeling it. I'd recommend getting a pair of calipers to make sure you're modeling the snap-in components pretty precisely.

Although at the end of the day you'd probably end up with a better result from doing one of the welding mask/bike helmet mods.
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>>1295787
If it's not 1:1, no one can really have a go at you for sharing. Plus even if it is, there's still enough components that you can't print that whatever you did share wouldn't be close to the strap anyway.
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>>1295796
>>1295787
Plus this seems to have been done already, using welding mask head gear.
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>>1295787
Well damn, certainly looks like a $100 bit of kit. Looks like the set would be all but rigidly mounted with it. Would cop.

Anyway, 3D printing accessories for VR is nothing new. I have a pair of printed clips holding a pair of PSmove controllers to a PSnavi controller each for PSmoveservice and SteamVR with my Gear VR. Modelling isn't terribly hard, and even if you're a turbo-brainlet Google Sketchup can be coaxed into outputting STL files. You'll be made fun of for using it but it's easy as shit to learn. Find yourself a scale head model and base it on that.
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Would this work?
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>>1295815
You need one way valves, besides this already exists, no reason to reinvent the wheel.
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>>1295815
Sort of. You want the melt chamber to have the same length though obviously. Why not just buy a Cyclops or something though?
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>>1295817
>valves
How? Why? There shouldnt be back flow if the nozzle is not clogged.

>>1295818
>same length though
For what reason?


>already exists, no reason to reinvent the wheel
>Why not just buy a something
Classic /diy/, never change guys
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>>1295820
It's not
>why not just buy something instead of /diy/ing :^)
it's
>why not just buy something tried and tested a million times and knocked off by chinks to be sold at $5 instead of spending countless hours trying to unfuck your shitty version of it that won't be any cheaper to make
If you want to make one just for the hell of it, go ahead, but if you just want a printer with a mixing head, this is not the way to go about it.
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could prime towers be switched with a tall, long model in any software? I think if I go dual, one hotend, this would be what I do whenever I go dual color. support with pva or hips would just be done in the dense support area for very complex models. ( would use a switch between pla and petg [works like hips and abs w/o smell] support for most other things)
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I have an old basic reprap lcd controller.

It has something silkscreened Kill, and there was 2 copper clod holes.

I soldered a momentary switch into it and it doesnt seem to do anything. How would I go about figuring out how to make it work?
Even if it isnt standard because I see a lot of LCDs without it, there should be a way to make it work right?
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>>1295925
See if your firmware is set up to handle that input.
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>>1295929
Is there a way to tell what its triggering, if anything at all when pressed?
Its obviously not hitting a kill command, wouldnt I need to know what it triggers to bind it to the kill command in firmware?
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>>1295936
I wrote long detailed reply, then i realized that you will find all that in google and deleted it. Good luck.
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>>1295939
Its ok to say you dont know.
Its also not the easiest thing to try and google, especially since all of the stuff on google about it had no resolutions and were from 2015, about the same time I built this thing.
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>>1295941
I know the answer, its on fucking google. Use it.
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>>1295944
Im sure you may convince a passerby or two that the answer is easily googlable.

Its not the discount LCD standard, hence why none of the LCDs make after 2014 have it. The STOP button is bound to the KILL command, and there is nothing in the pin configuration for the kill pins.
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>>1295948

Just trace the leads with a multimeter and see which pins it goes to on the RAMPS, it's not rocket science... You can even tell that the hole on the right is most likely Ground
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So TMC2130 or TMC2208?
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Was just given some wood filament as a gift. Any good project ideas for the stuff?
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>>1296072
Buttplug or anal dildo
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>>1295999
TMC2130, other has better/ updated silent steps but is a overall cheaper chip and cant currently communicate due to how clock sync works on it.
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>>1295999
https://www.trinamic.com/support/eval-kits/details/silentstepstick/
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Im interested in getting a 3d printer, but my budget is under $300. Looking at the reviews, it seems like buying a printer in this range has a 50% chance of the printer including broken parts or burning my house down. Does anyone know any good printers in this range?
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>>1295815
I'd say try and have the angle be equal for both (say 30 degrees) instead of one straight and one at 45. Your design looks like a recipe for jam.
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>>1296225
Monoprice select mini v1 / v2
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>>1296225
You know anyone who already has a printer that can help you build/debug one? DIY builds can come in around that
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>>1296225
Buy a monoprice printer and check the wiring. Wiring is easy and cheap to redo if something is fucked up. Just use a slightly oversized gauge and you're good to go since everything on cheap Chinese prints is screw terminals
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>>1295999
are either of these worth buying if I already have DRV8825s?
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>>1296264
This.

The only two things you must do to make it reliable are

1. Re-route the heated bed wires. Just take off the right side panel and bottom plate. Snip the four zip ties that hold the heated bed and thermistor wires together, fish them out through the shell and through the bed tray and out the back of the bed. Zip-tie the wires to the back of the bed then reconnect them to the control board through the side of the chassis. Screw the baseplate back on and you're done. Optionally you can drill a large hole or cut the corner off the side plate and fish the wires through after putting some trim or a rubber grommet on the edges.

2. Apply PEI to the build plate. I got lazy and just put mine on over the black buildtac.
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>>1291984
Anyone here using their printers to turn a profit by selling online?
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>>1296365
Theres the nerfgun guy who posts here.

A friend of mine gets occasional jobs from companies to do prototypes.
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>>1296387
How retarded would it be to print shit to sell on eBay locally?

I'm thinking flowers with LEDs in anticipation of Valentines day, and other neat shit.
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>>1296396
Not sure. It might not pay well (not worth the effort) if you do it in a respectable way, doing your own models.

There are people who do that already, but in a less respectable fashion. They get the stl from thingiverse, put a picture on ebay, print it when some fool buys it.

Pretty clever if you ask me, zero fucking effort and you get an occasional plus.
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>>1296342

I have no experience with them but everyone seems to have a hard on for the trinamic drivers recently. From what they say apparently there is a fairly substantial noise difference.
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>>1295496
Where is that?
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Buildtak bed levelled, axes checked, bed cleaned, nozzle cleaned , new filament roll, same settings I've been running.

I've found out that this happens almost always on long linear extrusions for base layers - shorter 1cm travel is usually fine. Layer wall/filling is fine, just base layer is having problems like this. Extruder is clean, nozzle degunked.

50mm/s, PLA at 200C, bed at 60. I haven't been racking my head enough for this. Is this adhesion or extrusion problems? What the hell is going on with my bed.

I need to start making Christmas gifts but I can't due to autism with bed layers.




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