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Old thread >>1291984

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
youtu.be/w_Wb0i0-Qvo [Embed]

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones

>SLA&DLP
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
http://www.nanodlp.com/

>SLS
http://sintratec.com/ SLS kit.

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc
>>
>>1304229
>thumbnail
delete thread?
i was going to post a new op pic
>>
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Leafeon for GF. I really wish i had some white pla left over. Would have looked pretty sweet in two tone. A little upset at the spot under the tail, but i was thinking of painting anyways.
>>
>>1304239
Oops I wasn't paying attention and now it's too late to delete. :(
>>
Can anyone with a moai take some close up shots of their prints? Seriously considering getting it
>>
>>1304321
oh, ill re-post my question if there is a better thread
>>
Anyone sell their printer? I have a custom one and it's too big for me now that I moved to a smaller place. Any good places to sell without getting pennies?
>>
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Hey /3dpg/ i'd like to shill a product i've started using recently that i'm happy with - Printbite.

It's a build surface like PEI that helps the first layer stick properly, but the stickyness depends more on the temperature of the bed than the material itself. At room temperature it doesn't stick, but it does pretty well at 60C for PLA, and at 80-100C for PETG. What makes it differ from PEI is that once the print is finished and you can let the bed cool down and then just pop the print off with little resistance. The finish on the bottom isn't as smooth as glass, but it's still shiny with a tiny dot pattern imprinted on it.
>>
How do I print object with a single layer wall? the print is just fine until it gets there, but then it seems to over extrude.
>>
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>>1304783
oops, pic related
>>
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After watching Tom and Torbjorn build the V3 hangprinter, I'm going to try and build one myself.

Ordered all the parts online, waiting for them to arrive while I print off the printable stuff.

The plan is to clear out my office entirely and just leave the hangprinter in there, i'm hoping startup and troubleshooting is too much of a nightmare.
>>
>>1304907
Enjoy your giant vase printer
>>
>>1304907
Thats the next level of jellyfish printing.
>>
>>1305167
Life sized body molds.
>>
>>1305237
Thats some new shit.
>>
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Any ideas for what could be causing this on my FFCP?

I have been printing 5 of these spread out on my build plate as a bed level and under/over extrusion test.

The walls on top and bottom will not bond together while the ones on the left and right do fine. Even at 30% increased extrusion this issue is happening.

What would cause this? My Y-axis pulses being fucked?
>>
>>1305369
wrong nozzle diameter perhaps?
all of the solid infill also looks wrong.
>>
>>1305408
The nozzles are set at .4mm which I believe is the standard for the FFCP. How should the infil look? I've been printing things just assuming it looked right.
>>
>>1305439
https://i.imgur.com/MZE137l.jpg
typically it should look solid, flat, and smooth enough. typically not as smooth as the bottom layer.
no gaps.

does your printer require calibrating esteps?
does your printer skip steps in the extruder (clicking)?
are you printing in abs or pla, and at what temperature?
>>
>>1305500

PLA at 230 on glass heated to 60
I've never calibrated the steps and I don't think it's the extruder(s) since the problem is consistent between both. No clicking.

The gaps seem to be consistent. Is there some kind of Simplify3D setting for this I may need to adjust?

I saw one suggestion that it could be my nozzle gap which would surprise me but I suppose I can try out some z-height offsets.
>>
>>1305675
230 is way too hot for PLA, it should be around 190-200. You could change the flowrate to compensate for extrusion, but you should go and calibrate the extruder.
>>
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>>1305675

- Calibrate your Esteps first and foremost using Triffid Hunter's guide
- 230 is too much for PLA

http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide

Be sure to recompile your firmware witht he correct values or at least try storing the settings in EEPROM
>>
>>1305679
>>1305771

I used to run it at 210c but bumped it up to 230 hoping it would help weld the extrusions together but had no apparent diffference.

Also, if my extruder wasn't calibrated, wouldn't increasing my extrusion multiplier by 30% have made a noticeable change regardless?

It seems like no matter how i change the extrusion width and height I am just getting tubes laid down next to each other as if the software is compensating for it.
>>
>>1305854

Yes, but you shouldn't need to touch the extrusion multiplier other than for fine tuning the profile for the filament that's being used. The slicer assumes a calibrated extruder, so any deviation in esteps is going to throw it off in multiple ways.
>>
I'm going to build a Hypercube Evolution. Going to use Steel rods for the Z and Y axis since they're stationary on the CoreXY design.
Would it be beneficial to use carbon rods for the x-axis for the decreased weight?
Any other Hypercube/Evolution owners here?
>>
>>1305886
Just use thicker linear rods on the Y. Carbon fiber still isn't as rigid as steel and not as hard as chrome plated steel.
>>
>>1305910
this, have a hypercube gantry
>>
>>1305910
I'm going to use steel rods on the Y already. What I mean is what material to use for the x axis rods, I heard its better to keep the x-axis light in a corexy design
>>
>>1305933
Like I said, just use thicker steel on the Y AND keep the steel rods on the X. Carbon fiber just isn't as good for this sort of stuff. If you're really worried spend more for misumi's linear rails w/ block. Compared to a rod + bearing + supports it'll be about 2.5x the cost but significantly more rigid and a better fit, and the rails have bored holes so you can just use m3 screws or something.
>>
>>1305933
>>1305886

Tech2C did a video exactly on using carbon rods with the hypercube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Pg-L1pQ6qU
>>
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How do I check the heatbed is simply not working?

The LED of D8 is on, the LED of the MOSFET is on, all except the LED of the heatbed itself and of course the heatbed doesn't actually heat, but I still receive temp data from the thermistor.
>>
>>1306569
Disconnect the heatbed and check continuity both ways (one way the led will conduct thats why you need to check both ways)
>>
>>1306497
his printer is 100mm smaller in all axis, carbon gets worse at 300mm (rods in general do)
>>
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First time printing petg, had the hotend at 240c and heatbed at 40c.
How should I improve? Also do all petg prints have this weird transparency to it? the part still feels perfectly strong though
>>
>>1306699
210-70. If your wire is not transparent, the print shouldn't be transparent either.
>>
>>1306699

Not sure what color you're using, but uncolored PETG is transparent. Even solid black PETG will have a slight transparency to it, but with more than 2 perimeters it's very hard to tell.
>>
>>1306722
>>1306700
Thanks, yeah this filament is meant to be opaque black. I'll use a lower temperature
>>
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The lowest price on the buy guide is around 200$, i could get pic related for a lot cheaper, i know it's just a chink shit so i'm not expecting too much from it but if it prints it's enough, any experiences with it? Where should i buy considering that i live in Europe?
>>
Anyone see the Kudo3d Bean?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzNw0dN-rck

Wondering if I should back it on indiegogo or just save up a little more for a moai
>>
>>1306786
>Wondering if I should back it on indiegogo
NO
>>
>>1306793
Guess you're right, found their kickstarter and apparently people aren't particularly happy.
>>
>>1306726
I just printed another thing at a lower temperature and the print is still sort of see through, I checked the box the filament came in and it clearly says "opaque black", I don't know whether I'm doing something wrong or it they sent the wrong type
>>
>>1306889
Is the filament actually opaque?
I have opaque white PETG and its fine. Maybe you got shit batch, or the brand is shit by itself. Temperature shouldn't change transparency if it clearly states that the filament is opaque.

Also, are you 100% certain you can trust your temperature readings?
I never trust mine, i usually do a test temperature sweep for every new filament i get.
Print a 1x1x5cm high brick vase and increment the temp every N layer, say from 190-230C
>>
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Do you guys have a favorite hi poly model? I've been printing some amazing models in ABS with a 0.2 nozzle at 0.08 layer height this week and I'm looking for more cool, super detailed stuff to print now that I've got my settings perfect. I also started using Zbrush to cut up models for better orientations and better quality with no supports.
>>
>>1306909
I'm printing it at 220c/70c and it still looks transparent, the print quality itself is alright now though. When I look at the filament itself it's transparent, so it should be opaque even before printing?
>>
>>1306919
Theres your problem, it definitely should look opaque.
>>
>>1306924
I've repackaged it despite using about 70 grams of it already, they should accept it still though. Where do you buy your filament?
>>
>>1306927
I live in the medieval central Europe so my sources will probably wont mean anything to you.

The brands that worked for me sofar: Verbatim, Spectrum, DevilDesign, PrimaSelect, Gembird
>>
>>1306786
I don't think you should back them, because it looks like, in that video, that they don't do a sweep of the pool after each layer which would be an improvement over others currently on the market. I think you should probably just save up for a Form 2 if your going to do SLA since they have a wipe and other cool features for maximum quality possible, but there is also some nice stuff on the Wanhao Duplicator D7 facebook page if your really set on a DIY SLA. Moai seems about the same level of ratchet DIY hood ghetto-ness of the D7 wild west chinese shit but with a bigger price tag so I would do Wanhao D7 instead. I know someone who works on 6 Form 2s for a living everyday, and it sounds to me like even at the high 3k pricetag, SLA machines are a challenge to work with, not plug and play.
>>
What colour should I print my new 3d printer (Hypercube evo)? I'll be using normal aluminium extrusions (not the black anodised ones).
I just can't decide!
>>
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Have any of you guys faced this problem before? At first I though it was bad filament yet a known good filament still does the same thing sometimes.

Here is a link (https://imgur.com/a/RIYHL) to my Simplify3D settings, could my retraction be too big? Also am printing with PLA
>>
>>1306974
I have this problem every two weeks or so. You and I share roughly the same settings, albeit mine prints at half those speeds!

Those are areas where the nozzle fails to properly push out that diameter for whatever reason. I've bent my head and boggled my wits, and the problem seems to go away when you clean the insides of the nozzle with a bit. No amount of flushing or increase in temperature seems to solve it, so perhaps it's only due to nozzle internals.

Retraction doesn't seem to be a problem. It may perhaps be due to old filament being stuck in the nozzle in repeated heating cycles. Who knows. If anyone else can chip in with info, would be great.
>>
>>1306935
What exactly does this sweep do?
>>
>>1306998
Make sure the nozzle is clean and the extruder isn't grinding the plastic into dust. Plastic dust almost like a lube and often causes slipping
>>
>>1306743
have you considered purchasing the Monoprice?

I've had mine for about 3 years it's a very reliable little printer.
>>
>>1306974
Retraction doesn't seem to be too high, but you should try to go lower if it doesn't produce stringing.
Do you have original E3D hotend or a clone? Did you use thermal paste between heat-break and heatsink?
Does it happen only with PLA or also with other materials (petg, abs)?
>>
>>1304783
>>1304784
It should be a setting in your slicer - something like "number of perimeters". Make sure to uncheck any "check for thin wall" boxes as well.
>>
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My mp select mini clone keeps spitting out tiny little metal balls, I found one under the extruder pressure disk thing, a few got fired out off into the rhubarb.

Is the extruder bearing supposed to have balls? It is just a metal circle with some kind of washers in the middle, it almost looks like it could have held a tons of the balls but works fine with none.

Any mp select mini owners know the part I mean? does yours have any balls?
>>
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>>1307189
Can... you provide pictures? I can't imagine why that would be happening unless one of your bearings asploded. I don't know what an "extruder pressure disk thing" is but the "metal circle with some kind of washers" sounds like it could be a thrust bearing. I'm not familiar with the maker select so I don't know exactly what parts it has.
>>
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>>1307189
I had parts from the pneumatic fittings clogging my nozzle. The retainer rings teeth broke off one by one. Pic related.

Id check out these first.
>>
>>1307199
>>1307208
I have had both of these happen on my shit flsun before I remade it.

linear bearing exploded due to shit cut rails, only replacement part I ever got from this shit compony (amazon has good return policy, but rep is a piece of shit tho, fuck flsun)

eventually got pla bearings (have drylin sample, but smaller length and less stable, would rather move to slide)

my bowden tube adapter broke and caused a shitty time on my extruder, had to just buy a new pack (or two because m5 ≠ m6) and clean out my hotend.

also with cheap parts:
fans like to blow out on my printer, moved to %50 pwm @ 14 volts on both fans and it seems to run more constant.
>>
>>1307066
the addition of a wiping mechanism that cleans the bottom of the tank after each layer. This reduces little boogers and blemishes but can also save prints from failing. A common way for prints to fail is when a portion of the layer doesn't peel and sticks to the bottom of the tank. Once that happens, the stuck piece will prevent the laser from making any new layers in that area, typically wrecking the whole print. With the wiper, that failed portion should get scraped off the bottom allowing the laser to continue. So rather than a failed print, you may only have a small blemish.
>>
>>1307208
The extruder end push-lock fittings have disintegrated on all of mine after a month of printing. I will be replacing all of them later this week.
>>
>>1307435
Lmao doesn't sound like a feature worth >3k m8

Anyone know of any multifilament mixers that will worth with a regular e3d v6 and a duet Wi-Fi? Like a cyclops, but with a hotend that the manufacturers actually supports
>>
>>1307563
>resin printer
>doesn't sound like a feature worth 3k
You know those things are much more accurate (and I think stronger) than filament printers, right? 2500-3k is pretty much the lower limit for a "decent" resin printer as far as I know.
>>
>>1307563
>>1307574
Resin printers are fun shit. But..

(Additive manufacturing)
>filament 3d printers
Hobby.
>resin printers
hobby 2.0
>Dmls
Godlike chad of additive manufacturing

I want my hands on a Direct metal laser sintering machine so fucking bad.
>4th industrial revelution will be driven by DMLS machines
>>
Is the e3d Titan aqua actually a necessary improvement for an enclosure? I'm thinking about enclosing my printer and if I should move from a chimera to a separate two head e3d Titan aqua set up.
>>
>>1307776
We got a dmls at the university where i work. Ive even used it a couple of times, we can print stainless and tool steel. We do mostly injection molding tooling, and research.
It has niche uses, and its pricey, i seriously doubt it will pop up in small companies, not even in medium sized ones.
>4th industrial revelution will be driven by DMLS machines
It might, give it 10 years.
>>
I got an Anet A8 for Christmas. Printed this and a replacement fan duct for it that I ended up not liking. Put down a glass bed because everyone raves about them. Leveled the bed incorrectly, started a print and scraped the brass nozzle on the glass, deforming the nozzle hole. So I've been waiting on replacement nozzles that were delayed because of the holiday. They'll finally be in tomorrow! I'm happy with the print quality for the price. To be honest, it printed fine on tape and hairspray, I didn't really need the glass despite what people on the internet told me.
>>
>>1304229
I have a tevo tornado, what slicer program should I be using?
Right now I'm using Repetier-host because that what the printer came with. But everything I'm making is very wispy.
It keeps making things mostly out of dabs of material and thinner than hair strands connecting the dabs. I've seen examples of what others have made using this model printer and they are able to make things nice and solid.
Is it the program I'm using or do I just don't know how to use it?
>>
>>1307847
just torrent s3d
>>
>>1307846
I have an A8 with glass too, it's very annoying that my inductive probe I bought won't work on it.
In my new CoreXY I think I'm going to use a Buildtak or something similar.
Your print looks good. Is that pink?
>>
>>1307800
Not to mention the understanding the science behind it and how you have to fight against forces that want to warp the part to shit and back.
>>
>>1307848
Is that the best program?
>>
>>1307863
Yeah. It doesn't give great print-time estimates, but it's the most powerful for customizing the print.
>>
>>1307847
I was wrong I have Slic3r for my program
>>1307848
How dose s3d compare to slic3r?
>>
>>1307863
>>1307865
good software, fast slicing and clean results.
sli3r (prusa is what I have used) has superfluous features and ugly results when printing with the exact settings due to shitty slicing.

cura does almost as good a job as s3d (if you have correct retraction) but cant do support well.

rep host I used for 5 min trying to print with velocity painting. absolute dogshit.

>>1307864
change your z movement speed to your print times, does nothing for print settings, just slice times.
>>
>>1307873
Thanks
>>
>>1307873
and yes I know rephost can use other slicers, the whole process was crap.
>>
>>1307873
>change your z movement speed to your print times, does nothing for print settings, just slice times.
uh... what?

The problem is that I can get pretty accurate print estimates in cura by changing the acceleration and jerk settings to match the ones on my printer, but there's no such functionality in S3D
>>
>>1307876
I've used that, it is a good feature, all I'm saying is that I can get good estimates just buy slowing the z speed setting to something that takes into account retractions, seems to be easy way on seeing accurate print times in s3d.

If you NEED an accurate time use cura, my duet has a print simulation feature for that.
>>
>>1307857
Indeed, there are problems that still needs sorting. But you can live with them, just like in machining, there are trade-offs.

Ive seen 20mm thick steel build plates warp by 3-5 mm, because the built structure pulled up one corner that hasnt been screwed down. Also the edges of the built structure likes to bend up (almost like in FDM), making the coater stuck, so you either file it down or skip layers to continue.
>>
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Where would these come from in a Mp select mini?

Are they eggs? Seeds maybe?
>>
>>1307776
>>1307800
>not building your own electron beam sintering printer out of old crts and toilet paper rolls
Wew diddly
>>
>>1308036
Balls from a cheapshit linear bearing.
>>
>>1308036
Even in real life, he is inescapable.
>>
my prusa i3 is acting weird

The plastic flow is fucked, as soon as a I manage to extrude it will only make the first layer and then the plastic just stops going out of the nozzle.

I have already increased the amps the motor gets, put the coil in a fixed position and tighten the screws of the carriage to a point that I'm starting to worry about the integrity of the plastic.

I have no idea what I'm doing wrong.
>>
>>1308121
What is the extruder stepper's temperature? If the assembly heats up, it can melt the plastic.
>>
>>1308129

Is at 175ºC I should have added that I'm using PLA
>>
>>1308134
No, that's the hotend. The extruder is the part above, specifically the stepper motor can overheat.
>>
>>1308137

Ah well, I haven't measured that temp.

It's a bit warm, the pololu actually gets much hotter(although logical I increased the amps to 0.4A).

I don't have any thermistor directly connected to the motor or anything for precise numbers tho.
>>
>>1308139
That's probably not it then, to melt plastic it would be burning hot to touch.
Other things that come to mind, temperature fluctuation can toggle safe mode that stops extrusion, are your bed and hotend temps within +-5C of target temp? If you have a fan blowing directly at a thermistor it can cause this, or the PSU not delivering enough current to drive the heaters.
>>
>>1308143


Actually I don't have fans as of yet, and yes the temps seem to be on target.

Something I noticed is that its actually easier for the plastic to go through at 200ºC, it would seem weird for PLA but might it actually be too cold to extrude?

Checking printing at higher temps now.
>>
>>1308164
210C is what I use for PLA printing, 175 seems low but apparently it varies from brand-to-brand.
>>
>>1308164
Yeah I'm build a Repstrap at the moment, I couldn't reliably Extrude PLA until I reached 210C

It'd just block up mid print, I spent a while fucking around with the Extruder before I realized temperature was the problem because everything I'd read said 175-185C is were you want to be for PLA.
>>
>>1307800
>It might, give it 10 years.
I highly doubt it.

For one, the laser power needed is an issue. And each metal used requires a different setting for refractory properties. The same reason the cost of laser-cutters that can cut anything thicker than paper haven't gone down is the reason why DMLS won't be going down much anytime soon. Higher powered lasers are more expensive to produce.

Second, the metal powder itself has to be within a 40 to 90 micron particle size and has to be spherical. These are not the cheaper morphologies for metal powder, but they are the easiest to flow consistently. Switching to cheaper metal powders requires extremely specialized equipment that the printer manufacturers simply aren't familiar with.

And then there's the third issue: fume handling and powder recovery. When you buy a DMLS printer you're not buying just the printer. You are typically also buying accessory equipment to go with it so as to avoid killing the people using it, and so that you can remove the parts from the build area while recycling the powder for reuse.

There are other deposition methods that are somewhat more likely to be able to reach a wider market and a lower price-point, but they're not as mature as DMLS.
>>
>>1308217
It's not just the cost of the lasers, it's their size and the size of the power and cooling systems required. You can mount a 2W diode laser on a carriage and cool it with a fan tied on with zipties. Try doing that with a 40W CO2 laser.
>>
>>1308139
(when your run trinamic at 2 full amps just cuz)
>>
>>1308090
>toilet paper rolls
wat
>>
>>1308309
You would prefer wood pallets?
>>
>>1308169
from ebay shit to name brand, 200C works well for me. At least for a duplicator i3 / maker select
>>
>>1308631
What is the function of a toilet paper roll or wood pallet in a EBM?
>>
>>1308219
>he thinks the laser source is physically moved in a laser sintering machine
>>
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>>1308704
No, I dont think that, but if you do think I'd try and diy a mirror system with a high powered laser system you're crazier than I am.
>>
>>1308744
You are alright.
Diy laser cutting systems use mirrors and shit. There are decent diy galvo systems out there id trust firing a CO laser at. Yeah i guess im crazy.
>>
>>1308750
Fun story: I mounted a 2W purple diode laser to one of my repraps for a brief period thinking maybe I could mill plastic. The laser was bright (painful to look at the scatter even with laser goggles) but I thought little of it. It sort of worked to cut dark coloured plastics but with much smoke and foul emanations. I then tried it on some glow in the dark plastic and I swear it was like a magnesium flare in my living room. Realizing that our eyes are relatively insensitive to purple light, and that accidental diy laser eye surgery wouldn't be all that great, I unmounted the laser and added it to my list of things not to fuck with.
>>
>>1308793
I am terrified of lasers, i use protective glasses even when im doing things below 200mW.
They are the coolest invention by far, closest thing to sci-fi stuff you can get in this age.
>>
While we're talking about lasers, have there been any top-down laser SLA/DLP printers? Resin vat suction or w/e has always been a problem so how come we haven't see any good top down designs?
>>
>>1308900
Volume of liquid required for a full build, I'd imagine, since you have to fit the whole print in the vat
>>
>>1308702
what is the function of a joke?
>>
>>1308900
they did that with the peachy printer, a saline bath kept the print from re-melting/solidifying
>>
>>1308900
You see them in professional grade machines, why they are more popular is they are fucking expensive to fill, imagine filling a 4 litter vat that always has to stay topped off
>>
>>1304229

Is pic related decent, I need a cheap 3D printer to print mainly mechanical parts for different projects. I former used a makerbot 2 at work.
>>
>>1309189
Apparently they pay off reviewers.
>>
>>1309205
I know, thats why I ask here if anyone have it, and if it's fine for the money with a bit of tinkering.

Dont know what reviewers are paid or not after doing some googling on it but it seems fine.
>>
>>1309189
Having the bed run along a single bar in the middle seems like a big design flaw; your bed will rock side to side like a seesaw, it'll never be truly level. I'm personally naturally suspicious of single motors on Z without timing on the other side (what's stopping the other side from dropping off level?). If you gotta have it, buy it on sale, use it to print a DIY printer.
>>
Has anyone considered running copper tubes between the fins of a hotend and running water through the tubes to ghetto water cool a hotend's cold end?
>>
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>try random shit as print bed
>accidentally a heat engraver
>>
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So I have a BCN3D Sigma. It has always made a high-pitched screech occasionally once a print gets loaded and it starts warming up. It's never caused any problems and it's drowned out completely by the loud-ass stepper motors so I ignored it. But for Christmas I got the stepper motor driver upgrade and the steppers are far quieter now. It's impressive how much quieter it is now but I can clearly hear the screech very plainly and it's more annoying than the steppers ever were.

The screech happens rather randomly, it's not correlated to the movement of any of the six steppers. It seems to come from the (left-hand) print head when it's warming up right before a print and then sporadically during the entire print. It doesn't screech when the printer is idle or even when it's heating up for calibration/filament changing. It still screeches if, during a print, I set the bed and nozzle temperatures way below their current temps so that they don't try to maintain temperature.

Any thoughts?
>>
Would it be possible to make molds for soap? How hot is soap when poured?
>>
>>1309643
Are you sure it isn't just the sound of your soul screaming?
>>
>>1309643
Maybe a fan binding?
>>
alright jsut got a new printer, whats the best way to get it sticky? the first 3 prints were fine on ducttape but now nothing will stick. Same material, same teperatures etc.
>>
what is the best reusable build surface for a inductive, currently non-removable bed, 12" for less than 40 money units.

I want to go dry with pla mostly so something like pei or lokbuild seems to look good.
>>
>>1309912
If you have a glass bed: either a regular gluestick (I find it chunky) or use a watered-down mix of 1:10 of glue:water of regular Elmer's glue or PVA. Apply reasonably liberally, I use a razor blade to smooth it over the surface and if your bed is heated it dries within a minute or two.
>>
How are you supposed to use 5:1 geared nema motors? They step 0.35 degrees per step, there's no microstep fine enough to get a perfect revolution for a closed-belt Z-axis
>>
>>1309912
hairspray
>>
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Does anyone here have experience in printing things for a service like treatstock? I was thinking about buying a 3d printer to print things for money (and myself on the off chance I want to make something).
>>
im interested in creating some 3d printed stencils with my wanhao i3 duplicator. im currently watching tutorials on how to use blender but im wondering if theres an easier way to do this cause it seems really complicated.

basically i have an image from photoshop with company logo and i just wanna import and make an stl file. any ideas?
>>
>>1310475
save logo as a svg, import svg into fusion 360, extrude SVG
>>
>>1310508
ty
>>
>>1310475
>basically i have an image from photoshop with company logo and i just wanna import and make an stl file. any ideas?
Shapeways has their own dorky little applet for this, but I tend to just use inkscape.
>>
>>1309916
>what is the best reusable build surface for a inductive, currently non-removable bed, 12" for less than 40 money units.
PEI

It's cheap if you don't get the adhesive-backed stuff.
>>
>>1310556
im trying to use inkscape atm. it worked well for a few images but now trace bitmap doesnt seem to be doing anything and nothing is showing in live preview
>>
>>1310000
Bumping for interest; specifically, what are the profit margins like? How's /biz/?
>>
>>1310558
what thickness, can get really cheap thin pei around here,but thicker costs more.
>>
>>1309189
A buddy recently bought one. He says it's not a bad printer for the price, but your better off spending the money for the Tornado.
>>
>>1310614
Thicker ones last longer, that's the only difference. 0.8 should be good, but 0.2-0.4 will work too.
>>
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>>1310642
inches plz
this stuff is really thin, but I can get a set of them, .003" is .08mm

thinking a thicker size than this is better though, comes with adhesive, gets very expensive after 10mil though

shipping is like 10 bucks from here, so not insignificant but not horrible
>>
Just "assembled" my new cr-10 and a 3mm solder blob fell out of the control box....
Fucking chinks.
>>
What's the best temp for generic PLA?
>>
>>1310786
Why don't you use google?
>>
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>>1310752
my 30 amp power supply had a screw, yet it only failed months later for an unknown reason.

fuse is still there, but don't wanna open if I can get a replacement from the skype chink.

sends me fucking ads after not shipping me a replacement hotend.
>>
>>1310786
200-210C

>>1310898
Cunt
>>
Can i use prusa slice3r settings for the CR10? I cant be arsed to dial in every bits and bobs.
>>
>>1310752
>>1310917
This is why you should learn to wire your own electronics. Perhaps the only dangerous part is the fact that the power supply has a mains screw terminal
>>
>>1310980
Unless you have exactly the same steppers and gearing, I wouldn't suggest it, particularly for the extruder, since I'm pretty sure each brand of stepper has its own settings.

The thing looks neat, though, what is the coloured insert / how does it fit on the printer? Coloured adhesive tape?
>>
>>1310987
>wire your own electronics
I dont want to wire up a 20$ power supply. all I want is a bit of quality control.

let me have my cake and eat it too.
>>
>>1310988
Have you ever set up a printer? How many times you had to enter your steps/mm in a slicer? Zero, because its in the printer firmware.

This place is more and more like /g/
>>
>>1310991
not that guy but there are machine codes you send to do that.

technically you could put those in a slicer
>>
>>1310991
>it's in the printer firmware
Not if you swap out motors and/or scratchbuild a printer, dingus. Not all manufacturers care enough to put it in the firmware, either, like a lot of early 3D printers back when they used to be made entirely from plywood and threaded rod.
>>
>>1311003
YOU DONT PUT IT IN THE SLICER YOU PUT IT IN THE FIRMWARE

IF THE FEATURE NOT THERE, YOU FLASH A NEW ONE. YOUR CR10 IS CRAP AND NEEDS A NEW BIOS
>>
>>1311006
I'm not even the guy with the CR10, why are you so buttmad about somebody else's printer? Chill, man.
>>
>>1311008
I'm sorry I didnt know a idot that cant send a M500 is allowed to keep pushing a shit for a feature that has no need in existing.
>>
>>1310563
>nothing is showing in live preview
It rarely does
>but now trace bitmap doesnt seem to be doing anything
The output gets dumped over the source image. Unless you highlight the image and delete it, you can't actually see if it's done anything sort of saving the file to dxf or svg and opening it elsewhere (or in another instance of inkscape).
>>
>>1310923
For calling him out on using us as his personal search engine? It's not like typing "pla temp" into the search bar is hard, it's actually easier than coming to this thread and asking.
>>
>>1311003
Why the fuck would you want gcode full of machine specific parameters?
Converting mm to steps is pretty much literally the controllers job.
>>
>>1304229
Looking to buy a new machine, should I get the mk3 kit or the tevo little monster? Never used a Delta printer but it looks fun, however don't want to waste money
>>
How do you model animals to print? I can make stuff with basic geometric features in Inventor, but I have no clue how people make animals or more complex things
>>
>>1311264
Sculpting using tools like Blender, Sculptris, ZBrush, Mudbox, etc.

Blender and Sculptris are free - with the former, there's a bit of a learning curve but you get the entire feature set and a robust environment. With Sculptris, it's been sort of marketed as "Zbrush Lite" in the sense that the tools are a little simpler and I think you can't import/export specific formats but people make some pretty neat stuff in it either way.
>>
>>1311264
Blender. It's one of these few open source software projects that's actually as good as or better than the commercial alternatives.
>>
Fleshlight bro how's progress?
>>
>>1311093
This. Calibrate your rigs lads.
>>
>>1311359
Which one?

Im depressed, didnt do shit lately.
>>
>>1309685
Yea, but the small ridges on 3D printed walls will make getting the soap out of the mould annoying. Also watch some soap making videos on youtube, pretty sure it's not a high temp process
>>
>>1311553
You won't be depressed if your dick is happy. :)
>>
Accidentally ordered this: http://gembird.nl/item.aspx?id=9273
>Material: polymer silk
Is this bullshit? What material could this really be?
>>
>>1309643
It's probably the power regulation portion of the power supply.
>>
What is a good geometry that shows the most pronounced moire effect. The ones you see at the anchor hole on pic related.

Its caused by too high stepper current, but why? Whats going on?
>>
>>1311727
if you print an inch high rectangular prism, do you get the same lines?
it seems it might be salmon skin.
TL smoothers might help, or you can just ignore it or use a less dark filament.
>>
>>1311789
Right, its salmon skin, not moire.
I dont want to get rid of them, i want to print a shape where these show up the best.
>>
>>1311794
this maybe
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1997411
>>
>>1311676
>printing temp: 190-210
>heated bed not required
sounds like basic PLA to me.
>>
>>1311831
I agree, but then i looked at the yield and impact strength, and its more than twice that of PLA
>>
>>1311676
It's a mixture of lignin and hemicellulose (wood proteins). I've found that it does indeed produce a silky finish across the layer lines and the black I used was more of a dark grey.

If you are doing a lot of retraction, you'll want to slow down your print speed, it doesn't stick to the underlying layer as nicely as PLA but can still do fine details (I ran it at 80 micron on a .4mm nozzle just fine at 40mm/s with a 50% slowdown for the outer later).

Be warned: it does occasionally (about once every 75-100m of filament) clog in the nozzle, I imagine due to improper mixing of the co-polymers. Fortunately, running the hot end up to 235C and pushing through with PET cleared the jam every time.
>>
>>1311847
>wood proteins
*polymers
>>
>>1310624
Thanks for the info, I think i stick with the tarantula thou, since it's cheaper. And i can always print a new printer when I have one,
>>
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My print quality is awful with PETG, and to make it worse I have this weird melting on the top of my print.
I'm printing at 235c on my Anet A8
>>
>>1308219
a 40w CO2 isnt big
we have 60w CO2 at the company and they are basically a 1m by 30x30 box with heatsink around the laser tube, cooled by 2 140mm fan
granted, they dont run close to 80% duty cycly
>>
>>1307846
Don't forget to print some belt tensioners, makes a hell of a diffrence.

And retraction in Cura.
>>
>>1313018
Looks lime inconsistent extrusion; Isn't PETG more like 240-250? What's your settings?
>>
>>1313034
>they aren't that big
>it's just a near 1m cubed box with a giant heatsink

What?
>>
>>1313051
nigger, learn to read
1m by 30 by 30
>>
>>1313038
0.2mm layer height, 235c, 45mm/s, retraction at 8mm otherwise it strings
>>
>>1313038
I print PETG at 205
>>
>>1313061
Holy shit that's fucking massive. Literally 900m cubed
>>
>>1313112
>I use the wrong thermistor setting in my firmware, AMA
>>
>>1313130
That wouldn't be 205 if it was the wrong thermistor setting. It's probably off because the thermistor isn't that deep seated in the block, but given that his printer is chinkshit too, he might well be better off using a lower temperature.
>>
I'm having one weird as fuck... bug?

I have a prusa i3, and using slic3r+pronterface I designed a cube of 20x20x20mm in blender and while everything seems fine, I'm getting a 20x10x20mm cube.

And trying to print anything with a circle is getting me an elipse precise in the Y axis too.

The only "weird" thing I might have here is that one pololu(the one in the Y axis) is a DRV8825 instead of the usual A4988, didn't change anything in Marlin but didn't seem to be a need for readjustment here.

For anything here, I don't know what is going on.
>>
>>1313145
The DRV8825 probably has twice the microstepping for what you have set, hence half the steps. Check their documentation and adjust the pins that short the microstepping headers.
>>
>>1313144
I'm just going to buy ABS. Can I print it without a fan?
>>
>>1313157
ABS is a million times worse than PETG. You should try lowering the temperature to 210-ish, but if you're gonna get something different, go with PLA. If you don't have a fan, get one.
>>
>>1313161
I've tried printing this PETG with multiple different temperatures and it has been awful every time. I can't find any cheap PETG filament in the UK so I just bought ABS from a manufacturer I've had good experiences with before.
>>
>>1313168
Oh and the PETG is oozing out of the nozzle and blobbing, I can also hear crackling from the filament as its being deposited
>>
>>1313169
>PETG is oozing out of the nozzle
Every filament does that, add some retraction and pre-extrusion gcode in your slicer.
>crackling
'Cause you let it sit and it absorbed moisture, dry it.
>>
>>1313157
ABS works better without a fan in my experience as it tends to warp a lot with temperature fluctuations. You may want to figure out a way to enclose your print volume.
>>
>>1313148
Took a while but turned out to be indeed a question of leaving only one jumper.

Somethings that itches me is that according to the guide I had to leave it at 1/16 steps while the A4988 area at 1/128 steps, and in every single guide I have seen say the same; put all the jumpers to set it at 1/128.

Whats the point of doing it that way and not just setting them at 1/32?
>>
>>1313170
>>1313168
Interesting.
I keep my filaments unbagged, some of the more than a year old and never had problem with moisture. No crackling sound, no surface defects.
>>
>>1313157
>>1313176
> You may want to figure out a way to enclose your print volume

This. Im currently making the ikea lack enclosure for my prusa i3 mk2. Have tried it and abs turns out amazingly. I can use abs for everything now without warping issues.

Its like printing pla now basicly
>>
>>1313205
I think I'm going to put my anet a8 in a cardboard box sat in front of the radiator, I only have to do a few prints before I haave the parts for y new corexy
>>
>>1313205
The ikea table thing?

Buy a Stuva instead. Looks way fucking nicer.
They do one, about 1meter square. What I got mine in to keep the dust off.
>>
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Titan-Aero-V6-hotend-extruder-full-kit-free-shipping/32815903993.html should i buy this
>>
Anyone know the internal height of an Ikea lack table?
>>
>>1313502
Why not get it from E3D instead of some chinese copy? I'm seeing the original for even cheaper than that link.
>>
>>1313640
Where? I'm from the UK and I can't find it at all
>>
>>1313640
Also it's only a block of aluminium right? There can't be that much difference between it and the genuine one... can there?
>>
>>1313647
>>1313650
My mistake, I was looking at the Titan, not the Titan Aero.
>>
>>1313529
you could just look it up online
external size: 550x550x450.
external height: 450
package size 750x550 means 4 legs = 200mm, 1 leg = 50mm
legs are same thickness as top, thats how they are packed
ergo internal height is 400mm.
love to be corrected, i have one upstairs too lazy to get up though.
>>
>>1313145
Same guy here.

After solving the isue yesterday, a new one arose and a very weird one indeed: I'm getting lines because the printer only moves in the X and Z axis and moves like everything else is normal.

The only thing I did since yesterday is uploading marlin again to the arduino(I was trying to decrease steps a bit) and then the whole problem started, but before that the printer was doing fine.

I have already tried changing steps in marlin and several jumper configurations(up to 1/8 steps) but the problem still persists.
>>
>>1313650

The heatsink isn't really the problem with clones, it's mainly the heatbreak. Also some cheaper Aero clones use really thin and shitty plastic for the extruder body. From what i've seen, TriangleLab's copies are good, but because of this the prices are also closer to the genuine thing's. You could try to be clever and order just a heatbreak from E3D and put it on the clone. I prefer to support E3D for designing (and open-sourcing) good hotends, but they are still quite pricy.
>>
Are there any books (pref. downloadable) that give a decent overview? The ones I've found so far are either part of an online class costing silly money or else are some idiot bloviating about his personal opinions.
>>
>>1313714
>Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker
>>
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Nothing earth-shattering to add. I remove the sideplate from my Monoprice Select Minis as soon as I get them so I can reroute the heated bed wiring. I have a few of these setup in a closet and they're close enough together that using the stock filament holder is annoying.

So I drilled a hole in the sideplate I don't use, bend the end of it, bolted it to the Z-axis tower, and mounted a conveyor roller through the drilled hole using a shaft collar.

Filament is was easier to swap, the extruder doesn't have to pull quite so hard to advance the spool, and I only had to spend $9 per printer.
>>
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Anyone know possibly why my extruder will go off the tool path until it reaches the end ofthe corresponding axis? It isnt extruding but its a big waste of time and cooling like that isnt good with ABS
>>
>>1314015
Using cura 3.10 and an anet a8 btw :)
>>
hi every1 i'm new!!!!! (holds up spork)

I figured I'd try OpenSCAD, and got my design done and exported to STL in a matter of a couple of hours.

Only question is, what units did I just do everything in? If I use a "cube([5,5,5])" is that five inches, five millimeters, five furlongs, or what?

Or do the units get determined after I try loading the STL into a 3D printer?

I looked through the online documentation in wikibooks but I can't find anything on units.
>>
>>1314245
If you use Slic3r, the grid is 1x1cm in size so if it's off by a factor of 10/100/etc. you can just keep adding or dropping zeroes until it looks right. If it fits between the lines or is weird, try doing 2.54 (or multiples of) to convert from inches to cm. I've never used openSCAD but I'd be surprised if either of the above solutions didn't work.
>>
>>1314251
Ah, thanks. Found the "--scale" option in the man page. Now I just have to get my sleep schedule adjusted so that I'm awake when the "makerspace" place is open. :-)
>>
>>1314015
SMASHED
L
A
M
M
E
D
>>
>>1314245
try fusion 360, it will be easier to learn.

>metal home printing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4UxBQ-LLsI
>>
>>1314314
>metal powder home dispenser
Interesting tho.
>>
Anytime i plug in my 12v power into ramps 1.4, my arduino heats up really bad. I replaced ramps 1.4, then arduino boardd after 5v regulator fried(but not aat same time) Why is my board heating up? I don't even have to heat my bed , extruders, or motors for this to happen. Any ideas?
>>
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So I'm in the market for getting a RAMPS 1.4 board, but I don't know who to trust and won't give me trouble. The two printers I had before came as kits and worked without any problems, so I haven't had to replace any electronics yet. I'm seeing there's a lot of packages on Amazon for a RAMPS + MEGA + some drivers and cables for about $30-$40 or so, but not very good reviews (DOA, bad solder, smoke comes out on the first go) and I'd rather not spend the extra time to resolder/deal with customer support.

Are there any specific brands of RAMPS 1.4 boards which I can get which are known-good? I can't find if there is an "original" manufacturer (like Arduino making their own boards vs. some guy in a shop slapping theirs together from bargain parts).
>>
Anyone here got silent stepsticks and can post his selection pin configuration?
Mine are louder then the A4988s for some reason. Current setting is fine.
>>
>>1315349
Iirc ultimachine or something originally designed it. If you really want quality you can try buying the RAMPS1.4 sb premium from Spain

https://www.tindie.com/products/staticboards/ramps-14-sb-premium/
>>
>>1315385
$65 for a board that was released a few years ago is a bit steep for me, probably (from Ultimachine themselves). That Spanish one seems neat, I'll look into it. A problem I'm running into is that there's all sorts of 1.4 "plus" boards which have different layouts and don't really say what the changes are. I'm not looking for specifically "premium" boards, just something that doesn't come DOA and won't burn out within a couple of months, but since the board design is pretty old I might not find many alternatives.
>>
>>1315397
I got one from robotdigg and it's worked fine but it's still a random Chinese bootleg afaik so it's luck of the draw imo. I'd get the sb premium if it's compatible with the atmega 2560 or save up for something high end like a duet Wi-Fi
>>
>>1315349
ill sell you my original ultimachine ramps 1.4. got 4 drivers too
>>
>>1315376
what microstepping are you using?

I have similar trinamic drivers
>>
>>1315545
16 with 256 interpolation. spreadCycle.
I just read it could be my voltage as I'm on 12v motor voltage right now and it says it should be quieter with higher voltage. What voltage do you run it on?
>>
>>1315886
14, moving to 24

when on 12 it does get louder on my extruder (16 with micro) but I run at 32 and didnt have any major sound issues.

all my 12v fans are running at 86% with pwm (hotend cooler is at 50%) to prevent a burnout though, a pc fan wont need it, but those small fans will bun out if at 100% all the time.
>>
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While my printer works, I have noticed that the prints are kind of inconsistent. Am I over extruding or under extruding here? I don't have a cooling fan for the prints set up yet either, and I am using PLA.
>>
>>1316164
I don't see an issue, which area do you mean?
>>
>>1304229
>re design a big mesh file for 3d printing
>add some holes for springs and guide rails
>wait 20h too see if it worked or not

I have never felt this unsafe about my designs. If it works its going to be quite awsome tho. I got the sucker ducktaped to the buildplate atm (10,5h).

What can i do to remove the ducktape safely from the heathbed? Its a prusa mk2 heated bed.
>>
>>1304428
looks nice, going to look into it.
>>
>>1316167
What even are you printing that you need duct tape to hold it down? I can tell already it will be an absolute bitch to remove, since the heated bed probably melted all the adhesive on the tape onto the bed itself. Your best chance is a razor blade, a steady hand, and plenty of goo-gone.
>>
>>1316171
Its a huge square block touching the plate. It had already started lifting a bit in the corners.

(not printing in an enclosure, live in a cold country) Im building an enclosure this weekend fyi.

Most of the ducktape is only touching the brim. Razor blade+acetone was my go-to remover for the bits outside the brim support. Was mainly woundering if cooling\heathing during removal would be helpfull.
>>
I have a DaVinci 1.0 printer and the first layer is always a millimeter or two wider than the rest . How do I stop it from doing this?
>>
>>1316181
Did you set it to print a brim?
>>
>>1316164
That amount of variation looks like inconsistent filament diameter. You could try printing outside perimeters to see if it helps.
>>
>>1316181
Get a cooling fan
>>
>>1316193
I don't think so no. I'm sure it's not wide enough to be a brim anyway, maybe it is a brim. I'll post pics when I print something. Tired of having to dremel it off after every print.
>>1316216
Ok I'll try that.
>>
>>1316181
What slicer are you using? For simplify3d you can adjust that under the layer
tab --->first layer height. Increasing the number will decrease the thickness of the first layer. In Cura go to initial layer thickness and decrease the number to make the first layer thinner. It's basically a setting to squish the first layer enough to make it stick to the bed. Hope that helps.
>>
>>1316233
It might be "elephants foot" then. Your hot end is too close to the bed during the first layers, so you're squashing the extra materials outwards. This effect lessens during higher layers. Or you're extrusion width is not property set for the first/lower layers.
>>
So guys what your secret for removing small prints from your pei or special surfaces?

I bought two, put one on my glass sheet and bam print sticked well very well. I made one of those thin leveling test and now it stucked. I could use my other glass sheet but pei surface that stick well and no need to heat it up is just too good.
>>
ducktape went well, washed the goo off with acetone and the surface has a just a think layer of sticky left, perfect for the next print im putting on.
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Someone sold me a small delta style printer a while back, and I'm finally getting around to trying to set it up. Can I just plug it into a RasPi running OctoPi and have things auto-configure? (I'm sort of assuming not.) How do I set up the configuration when I don't even know what the name was of the kit that the guy built it from?
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>>1316539 me again
It looks almost identical to picrelated, BTW.
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>>1316342
A paint scraper/razor blade, patience and steady hands.
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>>1316342
eheh, so, some ABS stuck really hard to my PEI. After about half an hour it was still stuck to the bed, so i said fuck it. It was only a 3 sq inch region.

So, i turned up the extruder temperature, and turned the first layer speeds way low. I just printed cubes over the stubborn regions. Then i just removed the cubes as usual, and it took up the stubborn bits. It was over in under 10 minutes.

I've found that using r.alcohol as a coolant helps to remove larger prints.
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>>1316642
forgot to mention, it was not taller than 3ish layers.
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>>1316342
I've found that chicken blood does wonders for loosening prints when you apply a little to your build surface.
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So what's better, linear rails, bearings, or v-slot rollers?
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>>1316830
Linear rails, they're made to the tightest tolerances and have the best load bearing capacity. They also use bearings but I assume you mean linear bushings for rods by the other bearings. I've seen v-slot rollers but they look like a bad meme. I can't imagine plastic wheels on extrusions having smooth motion. Linear rails are like $100 per rail + guide because they're made to meet pretty high tolerances and you're likely to find them most on higher end motion machinery being driven by ballscrews and the like.

For a 3D printer a linear rod and bushing (bearings) is fine though. It might only be a problem for very large >300mm machines because the rods start flexing under load when they're long enough. Rails will start flexing too but they're usually easier to mount on supports because they usually come with holes drilled through for mounting. Fully supported rods are a specialty product and while you can get good pre-drilled rods from misumi I'm not sure where you can find supports for a reasonable price.

Wheels I really have no idea, doesn't sound great but apparently there are a few popular corexy printers that use them and it sounds like they work fine. Considering most 3D printers are belt driven and usually not moving heavy loads I'm sure they're good enough anyway.
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>>1316847
>Linear rails are like $100 per rail + guide
What about the ones from Aliexpress? I'm guessing they are inferior but they are like 15$ for a 400mm rail. I'm thinking about putting them on my corexy.
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>>1304229
Will this last me long enough to print a y belt grip/mount thing?

Fucked up trying to go to the v6 hot end and lost my y belt part in the process.
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>>1316847
V slot wheels work just fine, you gotta remember we are extruding thermoplastics there is going to be a looser set of tolerances that we can expect. They just have to have a decent amount of tension / preload on them so they don't wobble and can't cheap out on bearings. I wouldn't run metal wheels on them, but the delrin wheels on my pegasus on CR10 have been holding up fucking well.

over 12k hours on the pegasus on the same delrin wheels but new bearings
and about 3k hours on the CR10 same bearings and wheels.

Now that being said, I'd still go linear rails just for the get it parallel and almost never touch it again, and if you pair it with some tmc stepper drivers, could hear a cricket fart while running at 150 mm/s
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>>1316884
it'll be fine, though it'd be better if you could put some screws into the holes that are on the x carriage (the ones visible in the picture) and hook the belt onto those
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>>1306743
I am happy with my Prusa - although it cost a pretty penny and the subscription-like "upgrade plan" grows more expensive faster than Josef's all-breakfast diet

I would have bought a chinkshit in retrospect since I really don't use it that much, because I'm primarily interested in assembling and tweaking and getting things working - and the Prusa was a letdown in that respect as it only took a few hours

You really can't go wrong with a $50 fleabay model. Even though it was assembled by chinese children and you shouldn't leave it alone on account of it being a massive fire hazard, it's worth its price tag just in parts.

Obviously this post is going to be flamebait to the locals' fragile sensibilities but that's my honest opinion and it's not up for debate.
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>>1316884
Hey I was just about to buy a set of those bearing assemblies. Do they travel smoothly?
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>>1316940
Yeah, just make sure you lube up
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Hey,
I'd like to 3D print hinges for my ancient laptop following /g/ advice. My school has a 3D printer and I'm a complete newbe to 3D printing but still I'll have one attempt to print it. Could you help me /diy/, please?

After googling I decided to order 10m of an abs fillament, is it a good material and is that enought for something that should be around 2x3cm + and 0.4cm "deep".

I can't decide on software to model it, I know only basic blender but it doesn't seem to be good for precise dimensions models. Also software for cutting is provided at school computers, so I'll contact the person who oversees printing.

Also how should I make something that by definition has an axis and two objects connected to it and one is rotating around it?

And the final question the printer has 20cm printing limit. Are there any ways to print bigger objects if they'd have to be as 1 part?
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>>1316884
If that's an A8 with stock belts, you should order a new set of fiberglass belts while you're at it. The stock belts are steel core; they'll stretch out.
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>>1304907
This is pretty amazing
It's like a trapeze printer
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>>1306743
Ok so i got the Tronxy X1 a few days ago, assembled it and this is the first print, thoughts?
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>>1316996
>I'd like to 3D print hinges for my ancient laptop following /g/ advice.

/g/ as retarded as usual
You can print them, but they aren't going to be usable
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>>1317115
Why not?
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>model a quick truss/lattice thing just to test retraction with new nozzle and new PTFE tube and new extruder (that shitty titan clone from Tevo)
>realize midprint it has bridges on the top and I've never successfully printed any bridge
>think to myself I'll slow the speed down to 20% when it starts doing the first bridge layers
>mfw it finishes the bridge layers before I can touch the knob
>mfw the bridges turn out perfect

The worm-like appendages happened because I enabled min-layer-time, so in some of the layers the hotend would park above the print, ooze, and when it resumed printing the oozed plastic stuck to one of the vertical "beams".
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>>1317126
Probably because too weak
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>>1316861
>they are like 15$ for a 400mm rail

Those 15$ rails wear out in like less than a year of usage

>>1316830
Longest lasting would be chrome plated steel rods and bushings (graphite, polymer, ptfe/carbon fiber, etc)
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>>1317147
Is that all? if then then I'll at least try, but how do I make the axis rotate? Do I print the hinge as a 2-3 parts and somehow assemble it?

And finally would printing whole bottom of the laptop's case work or would it melt? The original plastic is soft enough to be cut with a knife. I'll be using a cheap abs fillament rather than pla.
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>>1317151
Print it in place with a gap in between the parts, that way when it's done you can open/close it to get it to become an actual hinge. BTW, laptop hinges usually have metal parts because even injection moulded ABS isn't strong enough for it

>And finally would printing whole bottom of the laptop's case work or would it melt?
It wouldn't melt at all, ABS can take up to 90ºC before softening
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>>1317149
I just bought two of them for my X and Y axis, hopefully they'll be OK
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>>1309189
It's decent, just don't forget to buy a cooling fan and mosfet.
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>>1317099
Looks nice, doesn't seem to have any issues
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>>1317099

The Z-banding, obviously... Otherwise looks good.




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