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Questions That don't deserve their own thread.

There's no stupid questions, just stupid people.

Last thread >>1293191

Questioners, please namefag yourself to /q/ so that answerers can easily find your questions.

Please use a reputable search engine before asking any questions. Mainly, if your question can be answered with Google, then it shouldn't be here.

Thank You for your cooperation.
>>
>>1307512
What should i draw up in fusion and print today? Im bored of html\css courses and want to spend a few hours creating something.
>>
If you don't want your questions answered post in this retarded thread.
>>
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I'm printing my own keychains, but the metal ring is rubbing through the holes after a while. I thought about inserting a metal tube as seen in the picture into the hole, but I don't know what that kind of thing is called.
Any idea?
>>
>>1307524
>don't want your questions answered post in this retarded thread.
It's you again. Why do you hat QTDDTOT so much? I get that the board is almost dead and individual questions may help but some questions really are worthless, so why not try and get a answer here?
>>
is alibaba legit? has anyone ever purchased through it before? good experiences? horror stories?

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2012-NEW-PROCESSIG-Frozen-Surimi-Crab_481965415.html?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.86.4497cc731FG8ug
>>
>>1307673
>so why not try and get a answer here?
Because no one will answer it.
Though these people are also so retarded they post in this pointless thread when they should know already they won't get an answer.
I guess they don't deserve an answer when they post here.
>>
>>1307735
>through it before? good experiences? horror stories
Essentially the whole /csg/ on /g/ is mostly aliexpress/alibaba.
Obviously there's more scammers than most places, but at least I haven't been scammed so far.

But don't get food from there especially not 13 Tons+
>>
>>1307512
My radiator is set to 0 on the thermostatic valve but it's still belting out heat. I'm in halls of residence and the uni won't turn off the heating and they can't isolate my room. I see there's a little white cap with a screw in the top on the other side of the radiator, if I turn that will I turn the radiator off completely or will I make a geyser?
>>
I go to a dealer for repairs because I'm an apartmentfag, and they just do a better job than the mechanics in the area, and one of the mechanics told me that to defog my headlights, I should just use bug spray with DEET in it, because the DEET will get rid of the yellow shit.

How legitimate is this?
>>
>>1307735
>2012 NEW PROCESSIG
>1 year shelf life
????
>>
What are some reliable temperature sensors that I can hook up usb c to my phone?
>>
>>1307811
>temperature sensors
>usb-c
you'll probably need an adapter
>to my phone
pfft
I hope you're a software developer
>>
>>1307812
honestly just need it for cooking.

What does a dedicated thing do that a phone can't emulate? Real-time?
>>
>>1307512
If I'm pouring a concrete pad in a manicured lawn to act as a base for my garden shed, how deep should it be?
>>
>>1307512
How I should patch a big hole in drywall?

1. Make hole square
2. Cut a piece of drywall, that would fit in the hole
3. Screw support wood to drywall.
4. Screw a patch
5. Apply mesh-tape around patch
6. Apply filler or joint paste? so it is sort of flat with wall
7. Sand it
8. Paint.

Am I right? Hole is from my head...
Never dealt with drywalls, only with wood, brick or concrete walls, it is kinda new material to me...
>>
>>1307817
your phone's a computer, it does whatever the fuck you want
problem is that no one does what you want
/diy/ and phones are NOT compatible, unless /diy/ means /buyshit/
>>
>>1307820

1. Make hole square
Cut piece of cardboard that is slightly bigger than hole and
Put string through cardboard, knot at end and pull tight.
Put glue around perimeter of card.
Put card in hole, glue side out, pull string so it seals hole.
Use cardboard a base for plastering.
>>
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Who the fuck thought these were a good idea?
>try to pull it it
>doesn't seal properly because it's just chinese pot metal against chinese pot metal
>end up with a entirely useless shower and bathtub
>>
>>1307811
>>1307817
Why wouldn't you just buy a cheapo standalone sensor? There's no way it would cost more, even including the batteries you'll periodically need.
>>
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TL;DR: Is there an arduino-tier choice when it comes to FPGAs? What is generally reccomended?


I've been working on a project involving torque control of a 3-phase (PMSM/ basically a bldc) motor.
This involves measuring the current in each of the 3 phases going to the motor, keeping track of a 10 bit rotational encoder, doing a few calculations and finally producing PWM to control three bridges for power to the phases of the motor.
I made the prototype work using a teensy 3.6 (180 MHz and arduous compatible) as processor, but it seems to be barely cutting it.
I'm going to take the project next level by adding a second motor with torque control as well, and then I doubt it'll be enough with the teensy.
The trouble is also that the currents should (ideally) be measured simultaneously and at just the right moment, relative to the PWM signals.
I know I can save a lot of time by adjusting the adc as well, but I'm curious about trying an FPGA anyway, not to mention the advantages of synchronous processing.

So... any recommendations on a "beginner-friendly" FPGA that can handle 6 analog inputs, 2 interrupts and a few digital general I/Os?
>>
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>>1307512
I need to remove the knobs of various potentiometers and slide switches to be able to remove the pcb from a 80s alarm clock radio, I have not figured out how to take those off without breaking them.
Could some /ohm/ guy or anyone really assist me with this?

Picture for attention.
>>
>>1308230
Have you checked if they're held in place with grub screws?

Most potentiometers are hold in place with either that, or just friction.
Same for slide potentiometers as far as I know.

If they're glued I have no clue how to get them off safely though.
>>
>>1308232
>Most potentiometers are hold in place with either that, or just friction.

I saw no screws so I tried brute force, shit was tight but they came of intact. Thank you anon!
>>
What can I personally do about a slightly bowed foundation? When I say slightly I mean that its less than 2 inches at the furthest. I already added gutters to the house and a gradient but the updated drainage had to wait until spring.
>>
I want to get a big ass 00 cut bastard file for hardened steel. I've been looking for one for weeks now and didn't even got close. Can you point me into a direction? The bigger is the merrier.
>>
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Alright so I plan to cut some empty alcohol bottles in half to make glasses, but is there any use for the top part with the neck?

See picture if you don't get what I'm talking about
>>
>>1308372
funnel
>>
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>>1308372
pendant light.
just image google "glass bottle pendant light"
>>
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>>1307818
depends on local building codes (if any) and if there is a frost line you need to get below; for a shed - probably not. ar ound my neck of the woods sheds are usually built with wood floors up on top of some concrete peers which may or may not sit on top of some other concrete blocks set into the ground. over freeze thaw cycles the shed might shift a bit but usually no big deal. if it really starts to lean too far in one direction then you just get a floor jack or bottle jack and jack it up and 'shim' the peers to level it out again.
>>
>>1308099
even if it doesn't seal 100% it should do enough to divert water up to a shower head... the one I have leaks a bit but shower head still works fine. the old school ones were of course much much better built, better thicker metal and more accurately cast. I had to replace one that was decades old - hard to get it off but once I did you could feel the difference in weight and see the quality difference in the metal and casting. old school one had brass parts on the inside. new ones are cheap brittle plastic and cheap thin crap [pot] metal. we're in a race to the bottom for pretty much everything these days. its all about cheaper faster but definitely not better.
>>
So I'm moving on Sunday and I have this front load washer that I bought from Lowe's a year ago. It takes 3-4 bolts to lock down the drum on the machine so it doesn't get damaged in transit. Apparently it is Lowe's SOP to trash the shipping bolts when they deliver the washer, and since I was at work when they delivered it I didn't find out about this until last weekend. I ordered new bolts but the winter storm delayed the shipping so they won't get here in time. How much damage could happen if I move this thing down two flights of stairs and 18 miles in a truck without the bolts? Also, fuck Lowe's. Even the user manual says to keep the bolts.
>>
>>1309012
figure out the length size and thread, get similar bolts at store and rubber stoppers that fit inside the holes. drill though the stoppers and put the bolts through them and viola.
>>
>>1307777
toothpaste works
you will need to do it a couple of times
>>
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Can anyone give me a good guess of the type of wood here? Trying to sell this table.
>>
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Is wd-40 adequate to give this old belt sander some TLC? Gonna open and clean it, and my only options for lube are wd-40, motor oil, vegetable oil, linseed oil, or semen.
>>
>>1309059
It looks varnished and possibly stained. Unless you can get a picture of it where it's untreated, we won't be able to tell you. But holding a ruler up to the grain and maybe calculating its density would definitely help.
>>
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>>1309062
Ah, I could've done that with the top if I hadn't spot touched the areas with a felt pen beforehand.

Does this picture of the underside make it any easier or would it be layered and different? Forgive me for my inexperience
>>
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>>1309061
Here's the part I'll be greasing.
>>
>>1309079
> wd40
> grease
Make up your mind faggot. One is a lube, the other is not.
>>
>>1309082
okay, so can I use motor oil?
>>
>>1309084
Oil will run out. Use bearing grease.
>>
>>1309012

they threw them away so you would have to buy another one
>>
>>1308224
nothing out there really beginner friendly. maybe the de10-nano but i doubt it does simultaneous analog conversions. i dont know of any fpga that has adcs integrated.
google xilinx dev board or altera dev board. also check out the zynq or cyclone v soc.
>>
>>1309073
Well I don't have a clue what I'm looking at, but hopefully someone else can better see what wood that is.
>>
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What is this called. I can't find anything for this online. It's a lead acid battery pack for my electric bike. It's 6" by 14" by 4". It has a roughly 2.75" by 11.25" groove piece. I need to find a replacement case.
>>
>>1309136

Who is the maker of the electric bike?
What is the voltage on the battery?
What is the cranking amps?
>>
>>1309146
My bike says pegasus on it. Here's the logo...
36v 14ah.
>>
>>1309153

Dug around for a little bit.

I don't know anything about the e-bike market, but I am guessing that pegasus sticker is a chinese knock off of the French quality bikes. Mostly irrelevant information.

I was only able to find lithium batteries and not a direct form factor replacement unfortunately. Is the bike older?
>>
>>1309166
I have a feeling it is since it came with lead acid batteries. The number on the bike reads PLO6B078.
>>
I have a side by side charcoal propane grill. Not gonna lie it's some Wallyworld tier POS. I put it together about 4 years ago. The regulator went bad. I cannot for the life of me detach the old one from the propane line. WD-40d the hell out of it and nothing. Any clever ideas to loosen it up? If I snap the line I am going to buy some tubing and convert that side to a smoker. But its the bigger half of the grill so id like to save it if possible. Yes I'm asking for help loosening a nut. If you're going to sperg out on me don't bother.
>>
Any idea what I could use instead of a CD case that would be bigger for a hologram projector? Or just some way to get a bigger hologram without spending >$20USD
>>
>>1309234
Also a bonus weird question to this, does anyone know how I could make the holo bigger without using a bigger screen? I'm ineterested in making a bigger holo but everyone on YT seems to end up using bigger LCD's with trapezoid projectors on the screens, this kinda seems to defeat the purpose if you ask me why not just watch the screen?. I did see some guy manage to project a full size miku hatsune onto a wall (160cm) but he didn't explain it (and I can't find it anymore).
>>
how do I make a desk that won't cause my monitors to fucking wobble everywhere when I type without making it insanely heavy?
>>
>>1307735
Adding to this, how the fuck do you actually buy from Alibaba? Don't you have to havea registered business to order from there? How do people get around it?
>>
>>1309394
Are you sure? I've bought before without having a business. Also, usually the same people are selling on eBay.
>>
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>>1307512
Couldn't get ahold of a plumber due to the weather this time of year, so I'm doin' it live tomorrow!

Sewer/sink vent rotted out. Home Depot Masta Plumba said PVC was kosher.

Would y'all stop at the brass 4-way, or continue and do it all PVC? Underneath is unfinished basement. I'm in the US.
>>
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>>1309451
The good (sink drain as well as another on the other side. No issues as of yet.
>>
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>>1309453
The bad.

Apparently it's very common. It's where the vented moisture pulls and rots out.

Also, anyone see these green encrustations on the outside before?
>>
>>1309451

i'v never seen copper use for vent or a drain its basically a waste of money unless they had some unused scraps laying around

id replace vent and drain with pvc

someone used acid drain cleaner and who ever plumbed that should of known drain cleaner is corrosive to copper
>>
>>1309455
>
Ahh - thanks for the insight. The last owners were dumbasses, so I wouldn't put it past them.

The house was built around 1963, so it may not be out of line with the era - finally decided to remodel our only full bath.

>Since the late 1950s, plumbers have been introduced to a wide variety of plastic pipe and fittings to be used in drainage, waste and vents systems ...

I just replaced the other waste arm with a metal one. Figures lol. Guess those aren't compatible.
>>
If I want to make a fence for my router table or table saw, what should I use that will stay flat and true? I've heard that plywood resists warp when it is firmly secured, so maybe a piece of plywood for the fence with strips of plywood with the ply horizontal as supports? Would MDF be better? What about HDF? similarly, would I need to brace those? Just planning to buy the materials at the hardware store. Will the hardware store square this stuff up for me, or are they unlikely to have stuff like a joiner?
>>
>>1309451
>>1309453
>>1309454
copper and cast iron break down over time. if you have the walls open and access to them, remvoe and replace with pvc
>>
>>1309504
The plan is to replace the copper vent and drain with PVC. The iron is in good condition and also tied into the incoming sewer and 2 toilets. Totally above my pay grade - we're going to be here another 5 years max.

Thank you - kinda cements the idea of replacing the 4 way brass (drain - vent - sink -
sink) with PVC.
>>
Is pouring epoxy in the cracks of a oak slab strong enough to hold it together?

I dont want to use dutchmans so i was thinking about just filling all the cracks with epoxy but i dont know if this will break loose over time
>>
>>1307771
That's for bleeding the radiator, It'll make a geyser
>>
can someone take a look at my thread
>>1309737
>>
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I have one of these in my garage. It is a steel power rack with a black powder coat finish. If I wanted to write numbers next to the holes, which method would last the longest? white sharpie, stencil and spray paint, paint marker etc?
Climate varies from cold winters to hot humid summers.
>>
>>1308224
>>1309125
following up: the zynq has just two ADCs.
same as the kinetis processor on the teensy3.6... it might have many multiplexable analog input pins, but the data sheet says 2 ADCs.
so if you need *simultaneous* measurements for 6 analog then you'll have to roll your own with multiple external adcs.
>>
>>1309911
Durable clear coat over your method of choice. Stencil and paint if you want it to look neat. If you really want it to last, punch/engrave the numbers into the metal, then fill them with white paint. Sand/scrape down the overpaint to reveal crisp letters. Cover them with durable clear coat.
>>
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I have about 7 of these scattered in my attic, what do I need to do to them before adding blow-in insulation? Can I just screw a piece of aluminum or something to keep the insulation out of them and then blow?

Or what are they called so I can look it up
>>
>>1310090
Buy a real lid for them, don't just stick whatever on them. You should also put a flag there to mark their location.
>>
>>1310090
And what the fuck is with those tail splices. Do you have a cut off tail sticking out of the twist caps?
>>
I want to make a simple platform bed. What are the rules for design of the bed? Should the height be no higher than a bedside table for example? Does it even matter?
>>
>>1309911
I bought sticky numbers - idk what their intention was for. Prolly got the cheapest Walmart had.

They've held up for over 4 years' layers of dust just fine.
>>
>>1310090
octagon box
octagon box cover
>>
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>>1309504
I owe you a beer.

The vent pipe had a 100% blockage. Hopefully that's why the house smelled like shit.
>>
>>1310115
>>1310168
Thanks, very straight forward

>>1310123
I shouldn't have to, right?
>>
>>1310175
You shouldn't have hot wires flipping around in the breeze, no. Undo the nut and take out the cut out wires.
>>
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If I'd want to move a pulley/sled with a small motor, what whould you recommend? (accuracy is important, speed is wanted but not as important)
A rubber wheel and a stepper motor,
a conveyor belt,
A thread that is moved (which will likely be too slow)
or
whatever you call this (no native):
http://ram-e-shop.com/oscmax/catalog/images/categories/gear_rack_logo.jpg
>>
>>1310739
We're talking a single full glass at a time, so minimal weight requirements
>>
>>1310170
Jesus fuck. This is why you don't mix metals in plumbing. Over time galvanic corrosion does stuff like this.

I had to rip out all the supply lines in one of my rentals because the previous owner used a playful mixture of iron and copper. Every few months I was in there replacing faucet cartridges because they were full of pipe chunks.
>>
>>1309012
>How much damage could happen if I move this thing down two flights of stairs and 18 miles in a truck without the bolts?

None.
>>
>>1310740

Does it reciprocate? uh..
Does the glass have to move back and forth or just in one direction?
>>
>>1310739

I've been working on this same problem for a musical robot. Linear actuators of every kind are available, so you've got some choice.

The other thing you didn't mention but is important is repeatability. That is to say, how well to you need it to return to the exact same spot? 10mm? 1mm? 0.1mm?

If repeatability is not important, the cheapest and easiest thing to do is going to be a friction drive (as in, literally just a rubber wheel pressing against the rail) and a stepper. You'd need a homing switch somewhere and you'd need to return to it periodically, but it's a fast, simple, and reasonably precise system.

If you need it to be more accurate and repeatable, you're probably looking at a toothed belt and pulley system. Doesn't really matter if it's driven by servo or stepper. Not TOO much more difficult than the friction drive, but still definitely more involved.

If, for some strange reason, you need this thing to be very accurate and repeatable, you're looking at leadscrews/ballscrews. Significantly more expensive than the other options. Slower, too, but high-lead ballscrews can still be quite fast.
>>
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My gf was cleaning her nails and left a little cap with acetone on my nightstand, the acetone dissolved the coating and left this mark.

How do I fix? It's an old nightstand so I don't know what varnish was used.
>>
The sink and counter in my apartment is not level and so water from splashes makes it way to the right part of my kitchen. What do I need to put near the sink to act as a levee and divert water back to the sink.
t.absolute fucking retard
>>
Is is possible to build your own crawlspace dehumidifier?
>>
>>1310875
Scrape it all off and varnish again. Though if you apply more acetone and spread it around before it evaporates again you might be able to get the existing varnish to dissolve and precipitate back into the gaps. I wouldn't bet on it though.

>>1310906
Peltier devices or a compressor can be bought, and from then it's just a matter of powering them along with a fan, heat-sinks, and a water collector. A thermometer might also help to avoid icing up.
>>
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>>1308401
>on top of some concrete peers
>peers
>>
>>1309073
looks like luan
>>
>>1309171
>detach the old one from the propane line.
show a close-up pic
sometimes it's a pressed in bushing
>>
>>1310916
I always rely on my friends for support.
>>
>>1309507
please make sure you either
A: (preferably) use 2 sani-tees on top of each other and just raise/lower one of the drains
or
B: use a proper sani-tee cross and not just a cross
>>
>>1307515
The new roblox logo. Oof
>>
>>1307735
Never ordwr food from there.
>>
So, the screw that holds the rotating brush cylinder on my vacuum keeps shaking loose.

It is a metal screw that screws into a plastic recess. What is the best glue to tighten it? I cannot just upsize the screw, because it'll weaken the whole shebang. Crazy glue already failed and Loctite is only for metal on metal.
>>
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So I fucked up and drilled too large of a hole for a switch panel cut out. Any suggestions how to fit a 12mm diameter switch on a 16mm hole?
>>
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so, this is my boiler. it's from my grandpa's house, he passed away recently
for who knows which reasons he blocked it so that no warm water flows. i need to get it back to work. it was set on summer mode, switched it back to winter mode, no effects.
the pressure was at 0, opened the valve some guy said and rose it to pic related
what do? total noob, can give more info
>>
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What sort of foundation was used in the renaissance / enlightenment to build those ~6 story buildings similar to those in the pic?
>>
>>1311197
previous era buildings? probably better to ask /his/
>>
>>1311205
Alri m8 will do thanks
>>
>>1309012
>>1310813

Exactly none. One would imagine that the quashing machines suffer more during transit from the factory as they are shipped using containers and forklifts and idiots. Just check out how containers are handled in large harbours. A hit here , dent there. You won't punish it hopefully as hard as so called professionals.
>>
>>1311168
Install a two switch plate, and a second unwired switch. When people ask what that switch does, say it was like that when you moved in.
>>
>>1310834
Back and forth.
>>1310841
That alone helped a lot already! Thanks!
>>
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So there's a pole barn and frequent flooding has rotted out the base of the poles. it's still standing for now but I want to make it structurally stable again. Which of these two methods ensures better resistance against strong current from flood waters?

Method 1: cut out the rotted part and replace with a new post, connecting them at a jigsaw joint. then screw a thick ass bolt in there and use metal braces to better hold it together.
>this method would be a pain in the ass to do as I have to dig down 8 feet and i feel like it would be less strong than the concrete but i'm uneducated

Method 2: dig down as far as i can around the post before water seeps in too much and then pour in a dozen bags of concrete. ez pz
>>
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What do I have to look up to find out how to calculate voltage drop and current draw for something like this. (Please excuse the probably poor labeling.)
I want to be able to power multiple RGB LEDs from a single arduino uno r3, but I'm not sure how to do my calculations. There are three (pwm) sources, but only one ground?
Even if you guys could just point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.
>>
>>1311168
Glue a washer to the inside of the plate and drill the washer to fit the switch....
>>
>>1311492
Not an expert, but i don’t think blobbing the rotten post in concrete will stop it from rotting further....
>>
>>1311494
You can calculate them all separately, since all that matters is the total voltage across all 3 (doesn't change) and the current through each LED (is independent of neighbours).

The equation for the necessary resistor for an LED is:
>R = (Vcc - Vf)/If
Where "If" is forward current, "Vf" is (approximate) forward voltage, "Vcc" is source voltage (5V in this case) and "R" is the resistance. Rearrange this and we get:
>Vf = Vcc - R*If
"If" is frequently 20mA for low-power LEDs, and chances are "Vf" is about 3V. Assuming 20mA, Vf = 0.6V. The current is therefore much more likely to be around 10mA, which would give a forward voltage of around 2.8V.
>>
>>1311494
First find the resistor Voltage:
Lookup the forward voltage drop for the LED
Subtract it from the supplied (total) voltage to get resistor voltage (drop)
Vr = Vt - Vled

Then Calculate resistor current with ohms law:
I = V/R

Example:
If the LED voltage were 2V...
Vr = Vt - Vled = 5-2 = 3V
I = Vr/R = 3/220 = 0.014A = 14mA (when PWM is "on")

>There are three (pwm) sources, but only one ground?
For the "equalivent circuit" you posted, ground the three negative sides of the supply to show a valid circuit.
>>
>>1311528
>>1311529
Thank you!

>>1311529
When you say ground the negative sides of the supply, does this mean i can just connect the negative side of the voltage sources to one another then connect the led cathode to that common negative line?
>>
>>1311532
No. That was just to make the circuit work with a battery as drawn.
In reality, replace the batterys with arduino pins.
>>
>>1311529
It's an RGB LED, so I can't imagine that they're all 2V.
>>
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so i had my first experience with a grinder today. had to cut a structure of pipes in the garden, the work didnt come out very clean but that wasnt the main point anyway, the job is done so that's ok
pic related are 2 discs i used, did i overuse them? underuse them? they were 125mm and now roughly 105mm, changed them when i started feeling the grinder shaking, as other people said here. they really dont last much, probably 2 pipes each, thankfully they were very rusty so once i could dismantle them a bit i could break them just with the right lever
a few times the grinder gave me a good rebound, as if it got stuck, did i do something wrong? was cutting too deep? should i be the one moving around the pipe instead of forcing the tool deeper from one side?
thanks in advance
>>
>>1312291
Looks more like a grinding wheel than a purposeful one made for cutting
>>
>>1312295
it's a cutting one, i asked to the guy in the store and the label said for cutting
it's a 3mm thick one, people here said thinner ones are easier to break so a noob should avoid them for a bit
>>
>>1312291
those cant be the right discs for cutting, i've never seen cutting discs fray like that, they look like narrow grinding wheels

like this
http://www.dewalt.com/products/accessories/abrasives/bonded-abrasives/type-1-small-diameter-cutting-wheels/xp-metal-cutting-wheels-type-1
>>
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>>1312303
ok i checked and did a mistake, the disk on top is for stone, someone must have mixed them so i bought 4 for metal and 1 for stone
the one on the bottom is the metal one, which was like pic related
is it correct?
>>
>>1312317
that should be a good one for cutting
>>
UART question. Chart on left is typical AVR for 16 mhz. Chart on right is cheapo bluetooth HC-05.

The fastest rate supported by both is 57600 which has 2.1% error on AVR which is not great, but seems reliable. But it's too slow.

Does anyone know of affordable solution to use the faster BAUD rates of the HC-05 with the 16 mhz AVR? That AVR clock rate is desirable because Arduino UNO and MEGA run at that rate and are inexpensive.
>>
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Am I doing this right?

I bought some electrical equipment, and it came with a cord that was not attached. I have absolutely zero experience with, or knowledge of electric wiring stuff, so I'm worried it'll burst in flames if I plug it in. The only instructions it had was that sticker on the back of the lid...

Safe to plug in?
>>
>>1312875

what country?
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>>1312881
Does it matter? Either way, Finland.
>>
>>1312886

It doesn't matter to me personally, but different places in the world have different color codes.

It's still a bit confusing. the sticker clearly shows L (line, meaning voltage), ground, and N (neutral) which should be brown, green/yellow, then blue, (according to my pic) which is not like the motor side.

I'm pretty sure your brown wire is wrong since they show no connection there. The question is whether the blue goes there per pic related, or should the blue line up with the motor blue.
>>
>>1312891
>The question is whether the blue goes there

and by "there" I mean the N on the sticker, which is empty in your "after" photo.
>>
>>1312875
It's good based on cable colors and the motor diagram, that's how you wire a 1 phase motor. But looks like there's a mistake on the sticker, it should be L=brown, N=blue.
>>
>>1312875
I wouldn't plug it in because it's clearly wrong, your brown goes to motor black like the diagram and sticker says. Just because colors match you don't get to make the rules up.
Ideally swap brown and blue also if Brown is live. Capacitor generates lag (?) So Maybe Best to match the phase polarity
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>>1312875
I'm pretty sure this is how you're supposed to connect it
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>>1312899
stop talking like a retard
>Just because colors match
that's the whole point of the colors you imbecile
>>1312900
based on the sticker, which might not be correct
>>1312875
>I bought some electrical equipment
what you stupid faggot, the sticker looks like bullshit
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>>1312896
>that's how you wire a 1 phase motor

is that correct, that the line goes to the capacitor? I'm not a motor guy, but web has some images like pic related where N goes to the cap.

does it simply change the direction? Finnbro might need to follow the sticker to get the correct direction if it is affected.
>>
>>1312901
>the sticker looks like bullshit

1. plug per the sticker and kill motor. they will replace.

2. plug per 4chan experts (not per sticker) and kill motor. buy another motor.
>>
>>1312903
You can connect the capacitor to N. The only important thing is that the cap is on the starter winding.
But why would the wires be mismatched?
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>>1312891
Yes, it's really confusing. I think what the sticker represents, is the cables that are already screwed in at the "before" picture. They match perfectly, at least. And they have a black wire too, unlike the unattached wire.

Anyway, since this is getting conflicting answers, I think I'm just going to email the manufacturer and ask for instructions. Good thing I'm not in a hurry.
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>>1312908
>the cap is on the starter winding.
>But why would the wires be mismatched?

the cap came pre-wired, I think. "before" was before he did anything.

as I asked, does it change the direction of rotation? if so, then the sticker makes sense, and brown goes to L and blue goes to N, ignoring the colors on the motor side.
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>>1312912
>does it change the direction of rotation?
Starter wirings aren't meant to be on full load, they would burn. But it would change the rotation but we don't know what this thing is since he's such a faggot.
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>>1312916
>since he's such a faggot.

maybe you should check your privilege.
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>>1312875
WTF is this thing that OP can't tell?
>>
Nevermind! >>1312900 was correct. After referencing the color coding in >>1312891 pic, it made perfect sense. I changed the wiring, plugged it in and it worked. Thanks my dudes, and am I glad I didn't go plugging it in before asking...

T. >>1312875 & >>1312911
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>>1312922
It's just a fan.
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>>1312925
if you said it from the start you faggot it would be an easy answer
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>>1312927
I didn't think it would matter, and apparently it didn't because it still got answered before I revealed what it was. Sage for faggotry.
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>>1312901
You are rustling my fucking jimmies now dickhead, different colours mean different things in different countries. China,where this was probably made, doesn't give a flying fuck which color means what to you.
The diagram, the picture of the sticker, the actual sticker all agree with each other, >>1312900
This guy is on the money in my opinion, just as i explained first time round maybe if you weren't too busy with your head up your asshole you could tell us why that's not correct.
If you all want to sit around working out which wire goes to which coil fill your fucking boots but the instructions are abundantly clear. Anyone confused by the diagram don't go into electrical as a profession you won't make any money fannying around all day
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>>1312922
Maybe the big fucking "M" in a circle on the diagram is a big enough clue.
>>
>>1312929
>Anyone confused by the diagram don't go into electrical as a profession you won't make any money fannying around all day
If the colors are wrong then the sticker also might be wrong you retard. Don't pretend to be some expert if you follow some shitty sticker like a retard.
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>>1312933
God you are a fucking retard.
>>
>>1312937
>Don't pretend to be some expert if you follow some shitty sticker like a retard.

find evidence of a mass produced piece of electrical equipment that has passed UL or whatever they have in Finland that has incorrect wiring diagrams on a sticker or the housing.

I'll wait here.
>>
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Does anyone know what this is called? It's the part of my kitchen sink faucet that selects hot or cold. Its labeled DELTA. It's snapped inside so I need to replace it but I don't know what this is called.
>>
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>>1313090
>>
>>1313090
might be "single handle valve cartridge". every place on the internet seems to have RP50587 implying that it's used in lots of delta products, but it does not look exactly like yours.
>>
>>1313093
heres' a video from a drunken idiot that shows the other side, so it might be what you want: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcFstm8epYQ
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>>1312937
The colours aren't 'wrong', there is nothing to dictate that a manufacturer has to follow any regulations whatsoever in the colouring of their wiring. In this case it might be unfortunate but the label and instructions agree with one another quite clearly. If the instructions hadn't noted the colours then I could see a possible confusion. But they do.
>>
>>1312938
Protip: The m means its a motor.
>>
>>1311123
Loctite 480 might do the job
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>>1308224
a Psoc from Cypress will do what you want and it will be more beginner friendly than having to learn verilog.
>>
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I'm hanging a dartboard from a wardrobe door, and I want to put a ring of material around the board to protect the wardrobe from stray darts.

The wardrobe door is made from heavy wood particle board with a veneer over the top.
What material could I use that would stop a dart from damaging the door without looking like complete shit?

Yes I know there are solutions you can buy but I want to /diy/ it
>>
>>1313593
Get a 2foot by 2foot piece of lexan.. door shows through and should stop a dart without issue... hang it with 2 straps on the top that you can throw over the door top tied to a counterweight... put felt on the back of the lexan behind the dartboard to keep it from scratching against the door and the dartboard will hide the felt...
>>
>>1307512
Britbong here.

What's the most efficent lightbulb for brightness, energy saving and life I can get that uses two opposite prongs to slot into the socket and uses 40wats? (I think the wats are the deciding electricity factor for choice electricity wise, i'm not sure, it may be volts but please tell me, i'm new to this).

Thanks in advance.
>>
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Does this TV have a sound card?
If so, where is it, and are there other chips/whatever that relate to audio?
It's an LG 32LE5400.
Thanks in a van.
>>
>>1313762
No, no sound card. TVs aren't that discrete anymore.
the board on the left is the power supply. On the right is the motherboard for everything else. If the problem is in that board, the whole board will need to be replaced.
That TV has fucking RS-232 control, that's amazing. Fucking nobody has that anymore and it's incredibly useful if you want to do any kind of automation with the TV. And not just the basic shit either, every setting is controllable through that port and the protocol is described right in the manual.
Even high-end professionally installed media systems use IR emitters because so few TVs have that.
Hold on to that TV anon, you'll never find another with that feature and it's really nice.

what's the audio problem? I'd be surprised if it's actually a problem with the motherboard, it's probably something more simple. Checked all the settings?
>>
>>1313762
Best bet is to trace the speaker wires back to the board and hope you can see a broken part. My TV had a broken control circuit such that it always thought random remote buttons were being pressed, could never find that problem.

Otherwise get a replacement board (no longer available for my model) or see if you can get a compatible board to turn it into a monitor.
>>
>>1313798
Very insightful reply, thank you.
Which part(s) is the RS-232 control?
What kind of automation are you talking about?
I'll have to check this out, we got a new TV anyway so this one's mine to tinker with now.

My guess was the motherboard (now I know there's no sound card).
While TV was playing normally heard a sound like a headphone jack being ripped out, then sound went out. Reset audio, changed all the settings, turned TV off completely, tried multiple devices to input audio, Roku, cable, laptop, etc. Tried different cables, settings, sources, everything I could think of. No audio using the audio out port with headphones, so it shouldn't be a speaker issue.
I did tech support for a few years so tried everything, so I was pretty confident it was an internal thing.
>>1313803
I was considering that. Might try it, I've been googling the numbers on the chips to see which ones relate to audio and if I can get a replacement, that'd a pretty guess-and-check method though as I don't have any kind of testing equipment.
>>
>>1313806
The RS-232 is the 9-pin connector next to the VGA. Automation as in using a computer to control the TV. There's not as much of a need for that with a smart TV of course, but some people have complicated media systems with many video sources, or the TV is on a lift that drops down from the ceiling or comes up out of the floor, and they control it with one big remote or an app. there's a controller that switches the TV's input, powers on it and whatever device the input it set to, operates the lift if there is one, all with the one button press. Mostly it uses little sticky LED emitters that emulate a remote control in order to control the TV and other devices, but that only goes one way (there's no confirmation that the tv actually received the command). RS232 is nice because it's absolutely reliable and the system can make sure the command was received and take some action if it wasn't.
it's a niche case, admittedly, but having an RS-232 is fun if you're into programming and want to tinker with it. Arduinos, raspberry pis, some HTPCs and most older laptops/workstations have native RS232 capability.

so you've been thorough, it's not a good sign that it just suddenly cut out like that. it'll probably be hard to diagnose because that's a complicated and intricate circuit board, even if you tried to work backwards from the speaker wires and probe with an oscilloscope you might not be able to find out where the problem is.
Check all the wires, make sure there's no shorts, look for anything on that board that's scorched or bulged. If you get nowhere, you might check ebay for a new motherboard, or a takeout, or a cracked TV of the same model that you can pull the mobo from.
>>
>>1313813
Interesting, I'll have to look around and see if I can make anything useful with it.
I used to have a Raspberry Pi, but never did much with it, and I've done a very small amount of Arduino. I'm guessing I could get a USB to RS232 adapter and control it with my computer. Might be some interesting projects I can do using it.
I'll take a closer look and see if I can find anything that looks damaged, I have some spare wire and soldering equipment so hopefully the if that's the problem I can fix it easily. What kind of testing tools could I use, would a voltmeter or something similar be appropriate? I know the basics of electronics but haven't done anything too hands-on in a few years.
I'll check if I can find some for cheap. One with a cracked screen is a really good idea.
Thanks, this is great info!
>>
>>1313762
Here's an educated guess, and esay to do. Replace the big-ish electrolytic capacitor that is around the power amplifier chip. Often they dry out and lose capacitance. Same happens a lot on the power supply of the tv's
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>>1313821
Sorry to be spoonfed, but can you be more specific on which one it is?
I've located the audio amplifier chip. Would the power amplifier chip be something that only affects audio as well? Every other function of the TV works fine.
I may as well try that if I can find, shouldn't be too difficult.
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>>1313819
If you want to really troubleshoot that board, you need an oscilloscope. A voltmeter is a stick you can use to poke around in the dark-- A scope is like having night vision. But you can get pretty far without one.
http://www.conradhoffman.com/troubleshoottut.htm
this guy's guide on troubleshooting is a pretty good read.
>>
>>1313830
Before I read that (I'm the other anon whose tv broke), what tends to go wrong in these control boards? Would it be the passives, the small transistors, the small ICs or the big ICs?
>>
>>1313826

I can spoonfeed you all you like.
The power amp chip does audio and nothing else. Should have ONE big electrolytic capacitor near it. Try replacing that (soldering skills necessary. Anything that is in pairs around it, do not touch it ( I am assuming it is a Class-D thing)
>>
>>1313712
Watts is the deciding factor, but look at led bulbs... they’ll be advertised as “equivalent to a x watt bulb” but also will put the real amount of watts they draw somewhere on the package... they draw significantly less watts than incandescent bulbs... I brightened my kitchen by getting 4 60 watt equivalent led bulbs that actually draw about 2 watts each (making them safe for the sockets and circuit) and replaced 4 25 watt incandescent bulbs... brightness is rated on the bulbs box in lumens... I about doubled the brightness in my kitchen... do know that led bulbs take a special dimmer control so if your light circuit has a dimmer and you put leds in you’ll have to change it..
>>
>>1313863
Alright, I'll check that out, thanks!
>>1313830
That's a good read, I'll definitely have to look into getting an oscilloscope, I run into problems all the time where I wish I had something like that.
Thanks for the help, anon, it was great.
>>
>>1313866
Thanks for the information Anon.
>>
How the fuck do you solder with a torch? I'm heating stuff up and feeding it solder but the solder just beads up and falls off. What few times I can get it to stick, it just pops right off at the slightest force.

What am I doing wrong? I'm using 1.0mm 1.8% flux tin solder.
>>
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i want to use a pair of couplers to give my air compressor output a 360 degree swivel where each one gives one axis of rotation. i know there are swivels like this already but every single one has shitty 1/4 inch ends that have shitty 1/8 inch orifices and are barely good enough for a tire inflator. would this work out or be a waste of money?
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>>1314269
just realized i made the picture retarded, imagine another 90 degree bend between the 2nd and 3rd coupler
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>>1314087
>the solder just beads up and falls off
not hot enough
>>
>>1314087
>solder with a torch?
What are you soldering?
Sure there is flux in the solder?
If it's pipe you flux the pipe because flux is shi t with a torch. If it's electrical then get an iron you animal.
>>
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Not really a question, but I asked for help fixing a lamp socket in one of these threads some time ago. Using epoxy seems to be sufficient, and my favourite lamp shines again.
>>
>>1307512
Ripped out my bathroom walls, planning on insulating tomorrow.

Getting a roll of fiberglass, but considering using spray foam around the studs b/c why not? The crew that blew in my attic did that.
>>
How do I seal a painted surface to make it abrasion resistant? I've tried a brushed on primer and, spray paint; but when it dries, the slightest impact or scrape will make the paint come off like putty. What do I coat it with after to give it a hard slick surface?
>>
>>1314302
>Sure there is flux in the solder?
it says there is on the roll, and it's japanese, so it must be Quality™

>If it's pipe you flux the pipe because flux is shi t with a torch. If it's electrical then get an iron you animal.
its wires but i wanna be able to braze things together

>>1314295
fug
its pretty thick solder so i figured it could be the solder itself and not the torch or shitty irons i keep buying that instantly break
>>
>>1314521
>its wires but i wanna be able to braze things together
the flame from a torch quickly oxidizes the wire because they're thin - assuming it's stranded wire
plumbing heats more evenly and slowly due to mass
also, flux is always added for good plumbing joints to that ensures nice flow of the solder
keep the torch for brazing and plumbing soldering and get an iron for electrical work
>>
>>1314529
>to
*so
>>
>>1314519
Update: Scraped it all off and tried again in a thinner coat, same thing happens. Dragging my finger along it makes a large gouge, and it still feels putty like. I had tried again about 2 hours before this post, so it had around 3 hours to dry, and it felt dry.
>>
>>1307777
I've defogged my headlights in the past and it still comes back after about half a year. It's a quick fix but once the plastic has been distorted that's pretty much it. There's no long term fix, you just have to buy bed headlights. Just part of owning an old car
>>
I went to Mexico a while ago, and I got myself some badly done carvings made of Desert Ironwood that look like they'll slab nicely for a very reasonable price. Desert Ironwood smells awful when you cut it, but it's durable and looks very nice, perfect for knife handles. Problem is, it's extremely dense and abrasive, and the stuff has already eaten two of my saw blades. What should I do from here?
>>
>>1307818
6" is pretty standard. Some people go 4" to save money but concrete is cheap enough. The idea is if you drop something heavy you own on the floor on accident it won't crack. 6" of concrete is hard to crack. Throw a few rebar in there for good measure. Do it once, do it right, never have to do it again.

>>1307820
You got it. Drywall is for aesthetics it's not structural. As long as the end result looks nice.

>>1308372
>liquor bottle glasses
You must be poor or a batchelor. You'll never find those in a mansion. Think fancy son, not trashy.

>>1309079
You're gonna want grease on that son

>>1309171
They make drill bits for extracting screws

>>1309481
An aluminum leve is very straight, rig it up. Learn to braze aluminum together with welding sticks and a propane torch. Then braze your own brackets on the ends

>>1309795
Epoxy is pretty standard and works fine.

>>1310875
Same thing happened to my coffee table. You're fucked, all you can do is repoly it.

>>1311123
Rubber cement

>>1312291
Full retard. Get a different cutting disc.

>>1313090
It's called a faucet cartridge.

>>1314316
Gud jab

>>1314399
Seems like foam in a generally damp environment is a bad idea. Stick with the fiberglass

>>1314519
>>1314554
You need a top coat of some kind. Clear coat works fine, you can buy it in flat or gloss. Polyurethane works really good as well. Make sure you get a clear one as a slight yellow poly changes the base color drastically
>>
>>1309481
*aluminum level
>>
>>1314554

Sounds like the surface isn't prepped, it's the wrong paint for the application or it's way too cold.
>>
How dangerous is wood dust exactly?
If i am sanding an oak slab in my garden with a rotex, do i need to wear a respirator to not get cancer or what?

My coworkers are these old guys who think that its all just the goverment taking the fun out of the job and i always here the ye ol' my gramps always worked without respirator and he didnt die of cancer meme when i ask them about it
>>
Me and a couple of friends are working on a drinking game called battle shots. It will be made of wood and will be pretty fancy. I got a task to engrave something to the side of the case, but my imagionation sucks. please help, thank you, everithing is welcome.
>>
Is planting on ground still worth it? Everyone seems to be leaning towards hydroponics/aquaponics and it seems to be one of the best options for controlled growth, at least for the most part. Or is water only a medium for plants such as parsley, lettuce and kale?
>>
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Want to turn my pilot MR into a stylus.

Is there something discrete/not ugly that I can use to turn it into one?
>>
>>1314620
Sawdust/sanding dust is not going to kill you, especially if you're working outside.
If you consistently breathe it in you will get sawdusty snot and irritated lungs - maybe.
Workplace safety regs are in place so that workers can't be forced to work without dust masks.
>>
>>1314620
If it's not MDF or some other composite wood you'll be fine.
>>
What's the best way of getting superglue off my fingers? Any solvent that will work or do I just have to keep scrubbing? It's covering the tip of every finger on both hands, so scrubbing would take some time.
>>
>>1314998
nail polish remover (acetone)
>>
>>1314620
hardwoods are toxic and you could develop problems if you work with it all day and explicitly huff the dust but in general at worst you'll just cough a bunch

wear a normal paper dust mask like you can get at the dollar store
>>
>>1314647
>Is planting on ground still worth it?
If it weren't, industrial produce wouldn't be done in dirt

hydro/aqua/aero ponics is good for when you have severe space considerations but dirt is just easier and offers the same level of nutrition for the plant while also not requiring tons of extra work to keep the balance of your water medium just right.

If you're just growing berries or something, just do it in dirt. hydroponics is for weed, aquaponics is just a fancy granola/hippie/numale way to produce manure at home from fish instead of horse/cow poop, and aeroponics is for desert people who dont have enough water for farming.
>>
>>1314998
More superglue. Then wash it off before it drys again.
>>
>>1315164
I'm not sure if someone is getting memed on here but this actually works for getting permanent marker off of stuff, especially whiteboards.

If some fucker in the office used as sharpie on the whiteboard and it left a stain, scribble over the mark in more sharpie and IMMEDIATELY wipe it off. permanent markers have alcohol in them, it's how they stay wet and then it dries off almost immediately. after that then you can use alcohol or bleach or whatever for any faint marks that remain.

likewise, "whiteboard cleaner" is usually just alcohol and/or acetone. what i do at home is just mix normal rubbing alcohol from the pharmacy or dollar store with a couple drops of dish soap and it's a FANTASTIC all purpose cleaner that's still gentle enough to not strip finishes or discolor fabric. You can even use it on your hands instead of purell or w/e
>>
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I've got a lot of elastic cord. What could I do with it? Pic rel
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>>1315197
You could throw it in the rubbish bin.
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>>1315197
Go bungee jumping and post on /b/ for the lolz! Be the one OP that delivered!! Become a hero!!! Just do it!!!! Dont let those memes be dreams!!!!!
Pic related
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>>1315197

Build a bungee maze in a hall way
>>
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>>1307512
Upstairs toilet flooded bad last night and I'm seeing wet marks in the finished basement, in the drywall seams. I poked a couple drain holes with a small screwdriver and there's no more dripping at this point, but should I replace the ceiling or just wait for it to fully dry and repaint it?
>>
Bought a house and Im trying to understand how the antenna' coax cables are running to figure out what to cut (80% of them are dead and useless). But Ive come to one that has me stumped.

It froms from an amplifier inside to a splitter going "out", followed it outside through the wall to outside to the cable box, opened it up, and its also connected to the "out" side of a splitter.

What is the purpose of connected an "out" to an "out"?
>>
>>1315336
>Antenna's
>It goes from
>>
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>>1315283
>but should I replace the ceiling or just wait for it to fully dry and repaint it?

If it does not sag there's no need to replace it. even if some joint tape pops loose you still just fix that.

and don't forget to ask the guy at the paint store to shake the paint if it's something you got off a shelf. Otherwise they give you a stir stick and assume you have an hour to stir it at home. That way they will know you are a pro.
>>
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>>1315283

And be sure to spray any water stains with oil-based Kilz or they will bleed through your new paint, assuming it's latex.
>>
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I'm trying to fix the slow drain of a bathroom sink in an apartment. Long story short, I've taken apart the trap under the sink and cleaned all the parts so I'm confident it's not a clog of some sort. Here's the rub. The water only drains slowly if the pop-up stopper is installed, even if it's popped up how it should be. If I take it out, water drains lickety split. I can just leave it out and buy a rubber stopper for if it ever needs to be used as a basin, but can someone shed some light on what might be causing this and if I can keep the stopper installed and have it drain properly?
>>
if I have an old condenser fan motor from an AC unit
what would I need to do to make it generate wind energy
>>
Can old paneling support a 14x11 picture frame? It's obviously not very heavy, and I'm using the classic one nail picture hanger, but I've just never dealt with this paneling and the studs in this spot are in awkward places so it'll have to go unsupported.
>>
>>1315536
Is the panelling the fiberboard garbage from the 70s? Yeah it'll hold a picture frame.
>>
>>1315546
Thanks, yeah it's pretty much that.
>>
>>1315499
Put fan blades on it backwards
>>
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>>1315690
thanks man I'll give it a try ;)))
>>
>>1315166
Or just scribble over it with a whiteboard marker, it works just as well.
t. 6 year olds in schools everywhere
>>
>>1315499
If it's an induction motor (runs off AC, has no commutators, and has no permanent magnets) then you need to drive some power into its winding(s) before you can generate anything. If it's a brushed universal or DC motor on the other hand you can use it off the bat, and if it's a brushless DC motor you may need to swap the polarity of some transistors and add a power source for them.
>>
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>>1307512
Please explain this to me
>>
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>>1315889
>esplain

the door is keyed to keep your ass out of the utility access.
>>
>>1315894
You missed the point. There is a urinal put behind a wall and a utility access.
>>
>>1315488
adjust the mechanism so the stopper raises up higher
>>
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>>1315536
use pic related - the J hook part has a barrel that holds the nail at a downward angle
the nail can't change the angle and pull out
>>
>>1315923
I tried that but it didn't actually give it any more height. Thanks though.
>>
>>1307771

That is a shut off valve yes, it may leak if old and crappy. Better to get a new head for the thermostatic side IMO.

>>1309807

No it’s not, I hope you are just trolling and not that clueless
>>
>>1307512
How can I dissolve freshly hardened acrylic caulk?
White-spirit, other acetones, right?
Or only elbow-grease?

By the way, how to apply caulk, to prevent fuck ups?
>>
>>1316094
>fresh acrylic caulk
try warm water first with some elbow grease
then try methanol (methyl hydrate)

>applying caulk
practice. you can smooth over caulk with your finger, wetted with soapy water. or even saliva for a really small spot.
>>
>>1316106
Okay, will try water..
>>
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I'm trying to divide my basement into two rooms, what's the most cost effective way to do it without spending 50-60 bucks on one of these?
The space is about 12.5ft wide
>>
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>>1316130
Also don't want to buy a screen divider either, a decent size one costs more then just building a new wall. how2make screen divider
>>
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i found this old Kids keyboard at a goodwill.
what kind of tools do i need to modify it, connect to my computer and make it do weird sounds and shit?
>>
>>1316147
>The simplest (but not always healthiest) form of circuit- bending is the naughty act of simply opening the case of a low voltage (battery operated) sound device and stick ones hands straightway into the circuitry to temporary short electric connections by fingers to play sounds on it.

>You will certainly need a multimeter, test cables with alligator clips, screw drivers and various other stuff those are a matter of course with electronics work and those I won't mention here.
But one of the most important tools next after the soldering iron is a small low temperature hotglue gun.
>>
>>1314911
>Pilot MR
>Is there something discrete/not ugly that I can use to turn it into one?
Yeah don't do anything to the pen and just stick one of these on it.
https://www.amazon.com/Friendly-Swede-Replacement-Precision-Packaging/dp/B00CEURAWA/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1516236771&sr=1-3&keywords=rubber+stylus+tip
>>
>>1316155
cheers, that's exactly what I was looking for.
>>
>>1315889
>when maintenance has to piss and the bathrooms crowded
>>
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Anyone have any ideas for removing what once was a cotter pin?
It looks the same on both ends, and I can't even tell which side is supposed to have a loop in it.

I've broken half a dozen cheap tools trying to get it out, and besides getting out the torch and chopping off my tie rod, I'm out of ideas.
>>
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just built a wall for the first time and need to patch it up. whats the best joint compound for filling in the gaps? also is it fine if i use any wide scraper?
>>
I have some small traveling headphones to fix since cables are usually pretty bad quality and they snap like a string. Since I do small repairs like that for people rather often I thought I should stack up on some proper cables with minijack. Do you guys know anything trustyworthy like that? Something I can just order a bunch from Amazon?
>>
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I want to make a cheap Kirby figure. What what you all suggest to use for a base? I was thinking of a plastic ball, but not sure what kind.
>>
>>1316210
Off hand I can't see how it would be that hard, just use a flat screw driver or something, possibly with a mallet, to align the metal of the pin straight with the hole. Then use a punch, nail with the point filed off, or something similar that will fit into the hole to push it through. Might need the mallet there as well.

If you can turn the screw slightly at all it might help if the hole is not lined up perfectly with the dip in the crown nut.

If it's not that easy I have no idea what's going wrong, so good luck...
>>
>>1316210

Dremel is what you need.
Or maybe drill out both ends and tap the pieces trough, you can always get a new nut.

Other than that these problems give me nightmares.
Hate it when shit is stuck and been working on a company project where everything is stuck for a few days now so I feel your pain.

T. Mechanic
>>
Is there a cheap material I can get cut up and made into a keyboard and mouse pad? Like those big gaming ones.
>>
>>1316236
styrofoam covered in latex balloons like that old ZooSkool.com diy plugtail article

it will be firm but have some give, just like kriby
>>
>>1316236
Paper mache over a ball
you can cut it off the ball when a few layers are on
>>
>>1316357
>look up zooskool.com
what the fuck
>>
How can I make a plank out of a branch with no planer? I was thinking of setting up some kind of jig for my chainsaw but at the same time that seems like an awful idea
>>
>>1315904
i did miss the third pic. best guess is there is something wrong with that urinal, and they gave up on trying to fix it, so walled it off. but why they still need access? maybe still have to put some water in the trap once in a while to keep the smell down.
>>
>>1316435
Alaskan mill
>>
>>1315336
Lets try again without the extra info.

Why would someone run a coax cable from the "out" side of a splitter to the "out" side of another splitter?
>>
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Wtf are these? Some old way of hanging electrical lines?
>>
>>1316525
>Some old way of hanging electrical lines?

I think so.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knob-and-tube_wiring
>>
>>1316546
Interesting, ty for the link Anon
>>
How to get rid of fucking wasp in the garden?
No nests in me house or whatewer, somewhere on neighbors house...
>>
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Whats a cheap way to soundproof my apartment?
Thick drapes and pictures on the wall?
Would it be weird if I lined my walls with cardboard?

>apartment above garage
>cagers unfortunately have to honk while exiting to warn peds
>occasional speeders
>loud drunks on the weekend
>door slams

Cant really be mad at em... except the speeders
either learn to drive or kys
>>
>>1316403
it used to be marginally more wholesome and more of a forum than a shitty commercial porn paysite. It's where their tagline comes from.
>>
>>1316581
>How to get rid of fucking wasp in the garden?

they don't usually bother you if you are not near their nest. are they damaging your plants?
>>
I have an air filter but I threw away the instructions

if it has a carbon-coated side, which way should be facing the airflow?
>>
>>1316403
did it. regret it.
>>
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On the right is a dvi to hdmi adapter. On the left is a dvi to vga adapter. The vga adapter doesn't fit in my new display adapter because it has those four little pins around the flat part.

Are they needed for the adapter to function or can I just snap them off to make it fit?
>>
podcast suggestions?

just guys shooting the shit about projects they've done or plan to
>>
How do you pick between two chinesium products that most likely came from the same factory?

Getting a mini mill in the near future and need a cheap vise.

This brand is lauded as being decent in the budget machining world
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHARS-4-x-4-1-8-Precision-Mill-Vise-Anti-Jaw-Lifting-W-Swivel-Base-New/330717190280

This brand not so much, but this particular vise is popular on amazon
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HFS-4-Milling-Machine-Lockdown-Vise-Swiveling-Base/282534308898

Dimensions and weight are pretty much the same, price is pretty much the same
>>
>>1316718
>Posted two male ends
Are those both the dvi end? (obviously right is but not sure about left). If so, theres your problem
>>
>>1316680
Doesnt it have a brand / model number on the side to look it up?
>>
>>1316718
Yes. Those are the vga pins. I think your phone flipped your pic too.

Video cards since after the gtx 980 don't have an analog dad. Ati I think cut over a little bit earlier.
>>
>>1316744
Oh. I guess it's time to find a new display then. Thanks anyway.
>>
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Anyone know what these are for exactly?
>>
>>1316130
roll of ductape and old carboard.
>>
>>1316130
Tarp thrown over some old rope tied between the walls

It'll look like hobo-tier garbage but you'll have saved 50 bucks
>>
>>1316702
>>1316403
im surprised they still have the domain going 2bh

>>1316130
get one of those spring loaded curtain rods, or do what >>1316994 said and get one of those hook screws and literally just run a clothesline to drape your cloth divider from. make the divider out of a bedsheet or two and some punched eyelets available at any sewing store and run bath curtain hooks through the eyelets and hook it onto the line
>>
USA anon looking to start a trade at 30 as to not go postal at my desk job.

Is it a meme? Any advice? I'm pretty handy and want to actually make something for which I get paid. Thanks.
>>
>>1317010
as with any job it depends where you live. i've never heard of tradesmen making it without a lot of nepotism as entrepreneurs though. it's a lot of doing jobs for the same people over and over, like a landlord who needs apartments renovated every so often or working at some dynasty of a cabinetry company installing knobs and runners because you're not the boss's son.
>>
Yeah
>>
>>1317017
Thanks, I'm in Kentucky. Not looking to get rich, just want a stable income and healthy work environment and an honest pay for an honest day's work. $60k-$80k after a few years of training is all I need.
>>
>>1312866
Go sync serial.
>>
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Whats a safe way to plug up electrical line holes that wont fuck me over if I need to adjust the line?

As in, something that wont catch fire if the cord heats up, but not as permanent as filling the hole with silicone.
>>
>>1317083
Fire putty.
>>
>>1317083
Hot glue
>>
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>>1316867
Look like wood cutting guides to me, would work similar to the trivise.
Can't be sawhorses
>>
>>1317132
>not just using your knee to hold it up
Fucking safety fags.
>>
>>1311180
Is it gas powered? I used to have one like that. Usually, you have a black button that manually ignites the burner, and another big red button which is a circuit breaker. Keep the breaker pushed and crank the ignition.
If you don't have any spark, your burner might be dirty.
>>
>>1317123
>non-hardening and easily hand works around grouped cabling penetrations forming a re-enterable seal allowing for future work
Never heard of it before but 100% what I was looking for. Tyvm Anon
>>
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Looking to get into blacksmithing. Is this anvil a decent value for the money for a beginner? Looks a little beat up, but I don't want to spend too much before I know I'll stick with this.

Price is 300$.

>Very Old 100-Pound Anvil. Was used for over 50 years. Anvil does not appear to be manufacturer-marked and has some wear-and-tear damage to the lateral edges. Other than that, a beautiful old anvil. 15" x 7" x 7".
>>
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I'm looking for the name of this knot
>>
>>1317229
could be a sheet bend. specifically a quadruple. I usually use a double sheetbend on my boat and that looks like a beefed up one that's been there a while
>>
>>1307526
do you men like a brass or steel tube type thing?

I would call it an outer bearing race or bushing or just the bit of metal you press in.
>>
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>>1317253
>sheet bend
it looks like it's made from only one piece of rope so no sheet bend
>>
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>>1317229
>>1317272
Hangman's noose.
>>
Putting in a marble tiled shower floor in for pan and for bathroom floor surrounding shower. Anyone have advice about “grip enhancing sealer” I don’t know if it’s bullshit, if it is I might have to choose a different material, and I do not want rubber fish stickies in the floor
>>
>>1307512
Is it more efficient to have wide temperature swings, or to keep close to the setpoint temperature?
For example, is it better to turn the furnace on at 60 and let it run until it hits 65, or to turn it on at 63?
I'm thinking that for a given outside temperature, there's always a constant rate of energy being lost to the outside. The lower the temperature difference between inside and outside, the slower the energy is lost. So a house kept at constant 65 degrees should lose more energy than if it were bouncing around between 60 and 65.
Is that right, or does it work out the same?
>>
>>1317376
>The lower the temperature difference between inside and outside, the slower the energy is lost
This is correct. The relationship is linear for practical purposes. So the time-temperature-difference curve area is what matters for heat loss. So for example, bouncing linearly between 60 and 65 degrees has the same heating budget as a constant 62.5 degrees. To minimize heating costs, find out the minimum temperature you're reasonably comfortable at, and keep it there. Some thermostats let you set a schedule with different temperatures. So you might set a lower temperature while you'll be out at work to save energy, and have it turn back up an hour before you get home. However, this scheduling typically doesn't work efficiently if you have a backup heating system that kicks in if the main (extra-efficient, e.g. solar or geothermal) system isn't enough, because the change is typically larger than the backup activation threshold.
>>
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A cheapo screw in CCTV camera mount and a little camera thing (probably weighs like 200g if that) will hold fine on plasterboard, right?
>>
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>>1317543
Likely, but if you ditch those cheap chink wall plugs and use proper toggle bolts the wall will fall down before the camera.
>>
>>1317382
I'm going beyond a programmable thermostat, I'm making my own thermostat. I've got sensors in multiple locations, and depending on the time of day, occupancy, and outside temp, it changes the setpoint and also which sensors it uses.
I also need to know if there's any efficiency difference in the amount of time the (gas) furnace is running. It's probably not efficient to start the furnace and run it only for thirty seconds, but I don't know what the limits are, the furnace's manual says nothing about that. It usually came on a few minutes at a time with the stock thermostat. Since the thermometers I'm using are a lot more sensitive, this is something I've got to consider.
I've had this system running a couple of days, I'm collecting a ton of data to graph out so I can get a handle on this.
the way I have it set now (and with how cold it's been recently), it runs about two minutes every 10 when I'm home, and about three minutes every 20 minutes when I'm out or asleep.
About 45 seconds of that runtime is warmup, but it's followed by about a minute and a half of cooldown with the fan running, which the furnace does automatically.
>>
>>1309136
Can you open it? Sure normal batteries cells are stored inside. Amazon new ones (see if soldered leads) and reassemble. Cut the perimeter if you have to.
>>
>>1314622
“Battleshots” in a military stencil style font with/or a crosshair logo motif.
>>
>>1315889
Dedicated drain? Oil trap may not work or could be damaged? Cheaper to drywall around and demo to remain than replace? Could be an ADA clearance thing as well? Head scratcher.
>>
>>1316210
The metal has probably mushroomed on both ends. The notch may be enough in the way to work against you. Small punches and maybe drilling it out with a stronger bit?
>>
>>1316525
I believe so. Terminal posts or insulators.
>>
>>1317543
>>1317555
More to the point, adjusting the armature looks like it would put a lot more stress on the screws than just the weight. Anything but the cheapest drywall anchors (like the ones in the image) should be plenty. The screw-in plastic type would work, and proper molly or toggle bolts would, as the other anon mentioned, be stronger than the plasterboard.
>>
>>1317580
>I also need to know if there's any efficiency difference in the amount of time the (gas) furnace is running. It's probably not efficient to start the furnace and run it only for thirty seconds
A heater is not like an engine. It does not have to extract mechanical energy from the heat, it just has to generate it. Supposing that the furnace doesn't lose a puff of unburned gas at startup, any loss of efficiency is probably more to do with ventilation and heat distribution than the furnace itself. And that's where quickly turning on and off may run into problems. Electric motors consume a rush of current as they spin up, and depending on the particulars of your system, that may impact the electricity bill at some point (though the extra heat generated would slightly offset your gas use). It also places electrical and mechanical stress on the fan, which could shorten its maintenance interval. Also, there isn't much point in having the cycle time be significantly shorter than the time it takes the temperature to fluctuate noticeably. It wouldn't make a difference in perception, and your house's insulation will smooth out wobbles in temperature as the heat passes through it (so the total heat bill wouldn't change). The current timing is probably fine, but if you're not noticing temperature swings, you might consider increasing the activation threshold so the furnace cycles are more like they were with the stock thermostat. At this point, efficiency differences will probably be tiny, and would depend on the particular details of your system. There probably won't be public documentation with that information though. Do you have the contact information of the company that made/installed your furnace?
>>
>>1317675
>It's probably not efficient to start the furnace and run it only for thirty seconds

if the furnace has been off for very long and is in a much cooler environment, it has to heat itself first before usable heat can be delivered to the living space. so yes, in general any furnace that burns fuel will be more efficient if it runs for a while. "a while" depends on many factors, however.
>>
>>1317675
No I've got no contact information, I just was able to find the install/operation manual for the furnace. It's an Ameristar (rebranded Trane) 40k BTU.
The way I have it set up is with a setpoint and overshoot, it kicks on when the temperature dips below the setpoint and runs until it rises above the setpoint plus the overshoot value. Currently I'm running 3 degrees of overshoot when occupied and 4 otherwise.
Much less than that and it cycles very fast. The thermometer in the stock thermostat is a chip attached to the board, attached to the case, attached to the wall, so it responds slowly to changes and holds its heat a long time. It's right next to a vent, which heats up the thermostat and the wall it's on, so the rest of the place stays pretty cold unless I crank it up. That's one problem I'm trying to solve.
My thermometers are in a TO92 package hanging free in the air, so they respond very quickly to temperature changes, it would cycle very fast if I didn't have the 3-4 degrees of overshoot.
>>
Just bought a 50s house, plaster walls ceiling and wood floors. Tell me if this is a good or bad idea:

Strip wall paint down to plaster, do a subtle color wash. Skimcoat sand and paint ceiling white. Refinish wood floors and stain dark.

Or should I just skimcoat and paint the walls too? They are fucked now, I figure equal work to do either option
>>
>>1317694
>it has to heat itself first before usable heat can be delivered to the living space
Except that here >>1317580 the furnace is mentioned as cooling itself off after running via the fan, so any extra heat from warming up would get extracted and moved to the living space anyway. And with the furnace presumably being inside the house, it's not like the heat stored in the furnace would go to waste.
>>
>>1317728
>sanding the ceiling in a 50s house
Enjoy your early grave.
>>
>>1317728
I bought a plaster house from the 1880's, im going to just yank the plaster out and redo with drywall for easier behind wall access.

>>1317731
Cheap respirator and box fan out the window? Plus you could run an air purifier to catch remaining particles
>>
>>1317731
Sand the skimcoat is what I mean
>>
What kind of stuff should i read in order to learn to make stuff like better enclosure or generally better skeletons for your projects eg a robot chassis.
>>
>>1317730
>it's not like the heat stored in the furnace would go to waste.
Actually in my case, it does go to waste. The furnace isn't in a conditioned space, it's in an attic.
I guess in a way, if the attic is warmer, less heat is lost from inside the house, but still heat from the furnace does not go into the house directly.
>>
I want to build a coffee table with a hidden compartment. The table should be no issue, but I have no idea where to start when it comes with the hidden area.

Does anyone know of any resources that could show me how to build one? I have tried google, but all I come up with is pininterest crap that does not show you how to build it.
>>
>>1317899
I'd start by looking at what sort of door you want. There are cabinet doors that are just a flat panel that you push in to unlatch them; adding a stronger spring inside one of these might make for a well disguised door. I imagine similar things exist for drawers. Flush hinges are pretty common, but you may have to buy a couple of different sorts and experiment to see which ones let you minimise the gap between the door and its surroundings.

Putting the compartment itself on the tabletop is ill-advised, going for a small corner underneath or inside is probably what you'll have to do. You need to prevent it from rattling if you accidentally hit your shin on the table, and prevent it from opening unintentionally. There exist magnetic locks for this sort of thing, where you hold a magnet up to a part of the cabinet and the door opens, but making a robust and well-hidden door with this may prove difficult. If you do go this route, a reed switch will work as the magnet-sensor and will be very easy to incorporate into some part of the table, so all you need is some sort of flush locking mechanism that can be opened electronically. You may want to investigate RF energy harvesting for this as it's unlikely that you'll be able to leave any old cheap battery inside the table for a decade or two.
>>
>>1317874
>heat from the furnace does not go into the house directly
The furnace will have a time or temp (or combination of those) device that keeps the air mover blower running after the flame goes out.
This allows recovery of the latent heat accumulated during burning to be distributed into the living area.
This same device withholds the blower operation until the furnace has accumulated enough heat so as to not distribute cold air on restarting of the heating cycle.
The air mover blower is separate from the draft inducer fan which cycles more closely with the actual flame cycle.
Older furnaces may not have a draft inducer fan.




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