[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Home]
Board
Settings Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself


Name
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • There are 84 posters in this thread.

05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
06/20/16New 4chan Banner Contest with a chance to win a 4chan Pass! See the contest page for details.
[Hide] [Show All]


4chan Virtual YouTuber Contest - Submit Designs Here



File: 3dp.jpg (1.73 MB, 3264x3264)
1.73 MB
1.73 MB JPG
Babbys first 3DPG thread.

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
http://youtu.be/w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones
>Extruder
BMG or E3D

>Make collage for the next thread
https://www.befunky.com/
>>
Previous thread:
>>1432497
>>
File: boddrogon.jpg (517 KB, 995x956)
517 KB
517 KB JPG
Thanks for the models!
>>
Does that e3d chimera work for filaments with different temperatures? Eg: ABS and PLA supports
>>
>>1440461
Your welcome. They turned out pretty good, although white hides mistakes/details.
>>
Very good thread OP, I appreciate the detail and effort put into the pic.
>>
>>1440461
Nozzle size and layer height? Did you prime it or something? Some special filament? Looks a bit like those marble or stone ones. The prints look real good, beside for what they are.
>>
>>1440503
What? You dont like mushrooms and plants?
>>
>>1440507
I would say that you can stick your mushrooms and plants up your ass, but then that is what you were planing to do anyway.
>>
>>1440503
The filament is straight shitty Hatchbox white, which has popped and sizzled out of my nozzle since I got it. No primer. .08 Layer height, printed inside to out, 50 mm/s max speed with 50% outer most shell speed. 0.4mm nozzle size, stock ender 3 hotend.
Only things I've changed on my machine was add a bigger steel extruder gear, flash the firmware to TH3D, reduced my acceleration to 400 and jerk to 9 because I've been getting some nasty ghosting. Printed one of this big meme part cooler things with a blower fan that slots in, as well.
>>
>>1440529
>he gets ghosting under 6000mm/s^2
>>
>>1440531
Yeah, I'm not sure what the deal is with that. I'm still getting some z-banding on larger parts, can't figure it out.
>>
>>1440531
I have my acceleration and jerk settings super slow, am I missing a trick? Printing at 60mm/s print speed (walls and infill).
>>
>>1440535
Tech2c had to tune down his acceleration down to 300mm/s when he switched aluminum for steel rods in his Hypercube. Does any part on your printer feel loose? That causes MAD ghosting/rippling at any acceleration value
>>
>>1440549
Everything is pretty tight. Mine uses extruded rails and wheels for the x and y and a screw rod for the z, I've gotten everything as tight as it -should- be without rubbing too much
>>
>>1440557
How about the belts?
>>
>>1440560
They're tight. My X belt has some weird travel on the tensioner that I can observe as it goes from side to side and I'm not sure how to fix that, but I think I also need to fix how my dampener is affixed. Right now it's just two long screws holding it in place, because the other two are no longer long enough to reach all the way through the dampener. There's enough wiggle in that to cause me a concern.
>>
>>1440562
What do you mean by dampener?
>>
File: damper.jpg (25 KB, 512x384)
25 KB
25 KB JPG
>>1440570

Rubber gasket inbetween two metal plates, reduces the noise of printing to nearly nothing; the fans are louder than the motor movements. Translates into added heat in the motor, though, and probably puts more vibrations into the machine frame itself.
>>
>>1440461
>>1439408
Any chance someone could reupload on like, filedropper or mega or something? The settings I have flat-out won't let me download it since it's "malicious content / possible virus" (yes, I know it's been checked, but I still can't)
>>
>>1440580
Well, since your X axis is pretty rigid... how about the Y axis, meaning the bed carriage?
>>
>>1440582
I actually had to loosen it slightly because my wheels were rubbing and getting flat spots. But it's rocksolid, no wiggle in it.
>>
>>1440583
But does it flex?
>>
>>1440581
https://files.catbox.moe/yyhlu5.zip
>>
File: Galo.jpg (8 KB, 184x184)
8 KB
8 KB JPG
>>1440593
Thanks mate
>>
>>1440405
This may or may not help anyone else, but if you are using a raspberry pi zero or pi zero w as and octoprint server and would like to ditch wireless in favor of ethernet there are plenty of cheap usb-to-ethernet dongles that will work. Ideally you want one that has an external hub power port/cable. That way you can plug it into the data port of the pi, then provide power to the pi from the usb hub itself by using any generic USB ac adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L32UUJK/

I'm slowly connecting all of mine to ethernet because my wireless network was randomly kicking or changing ip addresses of my print servers. And the .local addresses stop working whenever ipv6 gets turned on. I've moved all of them to a subnet so I can easily assign static IPs.
>>
>>1440461
damn u work fast
>>
>>1440650
wow that's triple the price than the same exact adapter on ali:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Micro-USB-3-Ports-HUB-OTG-Ethernet-HUB-10-100MB-USB-to-RJ45-LAN-Adapter-Wired/32832300590.html
>>
>>1440580
You are aware that those said to be a reason for additional ghosting? Or was the ghosting problem the same before you put those on?
>>
>>1440580
Dude just buy decent drivers and set to 1/16 microstepping with x16 interpolation. Completely silent. Any other movement noise is probaly lead screws and shitty bearings.
>>
File: 20180807_224538.jpg (2.89 MB, 4032x3024)
2.89 MB
2.89 MB JPG
Printing with a 0.6mm nozzle makes functional prints so much quicker I dont see how people deal with 0.4mm nozzles at all.
>>
>>1441457
>0.6mm
But muh small parts
I'd print at .2 if the damn things wouldn't clog as often.

I don't print big stuff as often as I do small / complex components. That being said I wish there was a way to quickly swap nozzles without having to re-level the bed. And software leveling is a no, I don't like rafts.
If only I could do a .2mm print and then follow it with a .8mm print with minimal re-configuration.
>>
>>1441460
I know dem feels. I cannot do any small screwholes or decent snap-fit joints with a .6mm at the moment. I need to tighten my X-belt and lube the Z-shaft this weekend and see if that helps. Maybe I just need to print slower.
>>
>>1441457
Printing with a plated 0.8mm nozzle at 0.4mm, literally never had a clogged nozzle with it ever. For larger functional parts it is awesome, also helps a lot with ABS.
>>
>>1441470
Forgot to add: using a E3d volcano hotend, with the regular ones, it is impossible unless you go extreme slow, like below 20mm/s
>>
>>1441473
I hate how e3d pretend their hotends are gods gift. Volcano is just a sideways normal isnt it?.
>>
>>1441477
It is. Also I don't really feel like it gives that much of a boost, I had to print fairly slow at 0.8 on a normal hotend, I had to print really slow on volcano at 1.2. I need to make a bigger hotend to be able to print large objects at decent speeds.
>>
File: IMG_20180808_063854.jpg (857 KB, 971x1481)
857 KB
857 KB JPG
These z-banding issues are driving me nuts. It's a cr-10 style unit (Ender 3), but I just can't tell where along my z any kind of binding or hard vibrations might be happening.
>>
File: IMG_20180808_064733.jpg (504 KB, 977x1429)
504 KB
504 KB JPG
>>1441498
An earlier print that shows more of the issue on what should be a totally straight surface
>>
>>1441501
Getting the same issues on my Ender 3.
Find any slicer settings that help? What temps and layer heights you been using?

Haven't tried much to fix it, but I'm thinking of regreasing the z screw and printing one of those top brackets to hold the top of the z screw and prevent it from vibrating(?).
I might just buy a better quality stepper to put on the Z and see if that helps.
Until then, sanding and clear coat it is...
>>
>>1441504
I've tried going up temps and going down, not much seems to help. Small things like minis print just fine but anything bigger and it's layer city.
>>
>>1440736
Sure, but I don't have the luxury of waiting a month or so for them to show up.
>>
>>1441514
>>1441501
>>1441498
Remove your z- screws and lay them flat on a table to see if they're straight, bend if necessary.
>>
work in progress corexy with linear rails built on standard 2020 extrusions, probably too early to be asking for thoughts but anyway, thoughts?
>>
>>1441575
Oh and i forgot to mention, both the extrusions and the rails are 300mm long and the rails are mgn12
>>
Any Asiafag around here who have used Tronxy filaments before?

https://www.lazada.sg/products/tronxy-pla-filament-best-3d-printing-filament-for-arduino-3d-printer175mm1kgrollcolor-grey-intl-i116004881-s125230571.html?spm=a2o42.searchlist.list.33.5a403fc5YqWYF2&search=1

first time purchasing filaments though, any advise I should follow?
>>
>>1441537
Good idea, I hadn't thought to check the screw itself. The printer's pretty much new. How might one bend a screw / rod straight without accidentally making it worse?

>>1441590
Go for name brand stuff, even better if they publish an SDS so you can read it and see if they use any harmful additives

If you have amazon prime, Hatchbox is a pretty good brand that sells there. Not top quality, but a lot better than the usual chink shit, and their prices aren't terrible.
>>
>>1441594
The Hatchbox filaments looked pretty legit, more legit than the chink shit Tronxy.
I'll try it out
>>
>>1441594
>How might one bend a screw / rod straight without accidentally making it worse?
dude if they're causing noticeable banding you aren't gonna make it any worse, just do it slowly and carefully and always check after each bend how straight the rod is.
>>
>>1441596
>>1441594

Dont listen to this turd you cannot bend a screw back into a straight line without the proper tools and equipment. Just buy new rods, makes sure to get the same pitch.
>>
>>1441599
dude no, you can get them straight enough that they aren't making a noticeable difference in your prints, also doesn't the ender have those thick ass screws? how tf can they even get bent?
>>
>>1441599
Where can I buy a screw straightener lol
>>
>>1441636
>>1441605
>t. 45 degree bend on their willies
>>
>>1441650
more like 25 degree desu
>>
File: 20180808_202313.jpg (2.72 MB, 4128x2322)
2.72 MB
2.72 MB JPG
>>1441575
>>1441582
Might go with this setup, thoughts?
>>
>>1441720
Bit small isnt it?
>>
>>1441734
yeah i made it a bit wider, as long as it can move 213x213mm it's all ok.
>>
>>1441737
Yeah I was about to say, why aren't you using the whole span.

Did you already pick dimensions to avoid resonance?
>>
>>1441742
no idea what u mean, the dimensions are a result of using the standard 200x200 heatbed
>>
are there any desktop optical comparators for 3d printed components?
>>
>>1441720

How about rotating the X axis rail 90 degrees so it's harder to bend downwards?
>>
>>1441501
Not every z-banding is caused by the leadscrew. If the bed temperature oscilates it can grow/shrink, causing banding too.
>>
>>1441720
Nothing wrong mounting them that way. Keep posting your progress.
>>
>>1441498

>>1441873 is right, the banding is not regular, neither does it align with a thread pitch.
>>
>>1441873
>>1441905
Huh. What's a reasonable fix for that then?

Replace the bed temp sensor? Would that help, or is the flaw more likely within the bed itself or the temp controller circuitry?
>>
>>1440461
Oh look, anon is making his own chess pieces to BWAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!
>>
>>1441938
PID tuning

I wouldn't bother with it. If you fix that, it's still possible you're just getting filament width variation.
>>
File: 1445468708631.jpg (7 KB, 255x120)
7 KB
7 KB JPG
>>1440593
god bless
>>
>>1441938
If the bed is faulty you just gotta try a print with it turned off
>>
File: IMG_1789.jpg (461 KB, 4032x3024)
461 KB
461 KB JPG
I have a question, so I'm like 100% new at this, a friend of mine just gave me his old replicator 2 and some old filament he had lying around.

He said that if I print something and it jams or whatever it's probably because the filament was old and absorbed some moisture so I should go ahead and bake it.

So I did that and now it finishes the prints and doesn't jam, it's just that there's still a couple of little holes in the print which I read can still be a moisture thing, or could it be something else, should I bake it again? When I took it out of the oven the filament was a little stuck to itself but it comes apart easy enough when printing.

It's printed at .2mm and 215c
>>
>>1442110
The small holes can also be caused by extrusion settings, retracting filament on move commands. Listen to the printer when it's extruding filament, if you hear pops, then that's moisture. If you don't hear pops, it's something else.
>>
>>1442135
gotcha, retraction was set to 1 so I guess reduce it?
>>
>>1442138
Well, you can turn off retraction altogether, but on the flipside this will cause stringing. You can also try changing retraction distance, the minimum distance the head has to move to trigger retraction; but in a print like that one, you'd normally want to retract, else you'll get both stringing and holes. Another possibility is to manually slow down the printer when you reach those small parts that are at a large distance from one another, the slower the printer is going, the smaller the holes should be.
You can also use minimum layer time to automatically slow the printer down as long as the layer time would be relatively low, ie. if a layer would take 10s to print and you set minimum layer time to 15s, it will slow down the head to make it take 15s. But again if you go overboard with the minimum layer time, it will cause stopping the print altogether for a few seconds, which again causes oozing and stringing and holes. Manually slowing it down is probably better.
>>
>>1442142
can I do that in the makerbot software or do I do it on the printer itself?
>>
>>1442143
You can do it either in software or on the printer itself. If you print directly from PC via USB, it's probably easier to do on the host software, whatever you use. I don't know if makerbot has their own, I use Repetier.
>>
>>1442147
yeah makerbot makes you use their proprietary software it only takes .x3g files and it only prints off an sd card.

I found a setting called minimum layer duration, it's set to 5.0s is that what I should increase?
>>
>>1442148
Yeah, but again, be wary of the head lifting, that will be doing more harm than good. There should be a minimum speed setting near it, decrease that as you increase min layer time.
>>
File: Untitled.png (32 KB, 915x663)
32 KB
32 KB PNG
>>1442149
this is what it looks like
>>
>>1442150
I guess it doesn't have that feature, then just increase minimum layer time and see what happens with prints. Still I'd normally just manually adjust print speed as needed while printing.
>>
>>1442151
ok cool I'll play with it thanks man
>>
>>1442110
Increase retraction to 3-4 mm, increase "extra prime amount" to about 0.4mm^3
>>
Hey anons, I have had a mp select mini version 1 for a couple years now and I've gotten some good use out of it, but it's starting to crap out on me. I was looking for advise as to whether I should put more money into it (about 100 dollars in replacing the power supply and hot end with fans) or just get a different printer. My reasons to upgrade would be a bigger print area as well as quieter operation. I'm willing to buy or build, just looking for some advice. Thanks

>pic semi-related
>>
>>1442343
Mail the select mini to me and get an Ender 3
>>
>>1442402
How loud is the ender 3?
>>
>>1442248
that doesn't seem right at all
>>
>>1442418
really quiet if you get stepper dampers
>>
>>1442454
Could I get stepper dampers for the mp select mini version 1?
>>
>>1442343
>it's starting to crap out on me
What issue specifically?
I had to replace the bowden tube fittings every two months as they start to lose retaining cleats. The r1 also benefits from replacing the sheet-metal filament tensioner with a printed version which doesn't have so many gaps.

Clearing clogs out of the extruder is a real bitch, which is why I eventually tossed mine onto my lawn (your pic related).
>>
>>1442471
The power supply has this weird bug that others online too, where you turn on the machine and the supply shorts out, so you have to turn the machine on and then plug in the psu every time I want to use it. (It started doing it recently and my warrantee is expired) along with that I have to replace the extruder because some of the parts that hold it on broke, plus it's a pain in the ass to clean like you said so I'd rather spend the extra 10 dollars to replace it instead of spending only a couple bucks to temporarily fix it. And I would have to buy a glass bed for it because the aluminum is starting to warp.
>>
File: PNq866a.jpg (781 KB, 2976x3968)
781 KB
781 KB JPG
>>1440461
How sad and whimpy

debating about making a bigger special candle of one of the other models.
>>
>>1442530
unf
what ya gonna do with it?
>>
>>1442593
Call myself an artist and say it symbolizes the struggle of the mexicans who border hop
>>
File: 8Rj6Ma9.gif (281 KB, 1190x877)
281 KB
281 KB GIF
>>1442604
forgot pic
>>
Why must faggots ruin everything?
>>
>>1442692
>not knowing the dildos are the driving force behind most of this tech
>>
>>1442530
>all those polys
Come on you could have done better than that. Turn on subdivisions.
Now you're going to have to polish the shit out of that dong.
>>
>>1442693
Absolutely disgusting.
>>
>>1442696
pretty sure BD isn't going to put the high quality 3d models up can't have other's pushing in on their products.
>>
File: 1521508380614.png (413 KB, 464x700)
413 KB
413 KB PNG
>>1442717
>pushing in
>>
>>1440405
>>1438962
>how do you block the magnetic field?
mu-metal or permalloy, etc.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mu-metal
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permalloy
>>
>>1442692
How is this thread ruined?

>>1442717
The normal maps next to the obj files can be used to get a more detailed mesh.
>>
File: treeBark.png (775 KB, 1848x812)
775 KB
775 KB PNG
>>1442780
>>get a more detailed mesh
Like this.
>>
>>1442692
Insecure much?
>>
Read the sticky
>- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
>>
>>1440405
I'm having fun with using print orientation and screws to join parts into an assembly with better structural properties than a single print could manage.
>>
>>1442815
Hey thanks for posting the howto for baking in the normal maps.

Never used them before.
>>
>>1442839
I wish mods would stop pretending any board here is literally SFW.
The point of a blue board is to have a board that isn't filled with porn dumps.
>>
>>1442530
Are you going to try silicone casting that weird fruit?
>>
>>1442862
So basically the same idea as layering different grains of wood? Smart.
>>
>>1442839
>being an anally retentive rulesfag
Hey you want me to print you a fat dong so we can relax your permanently clenched butthole?
>>
>>1442980
Keep your homosexual tendencies to yourself. No one wants to see that shit except other fags.
>>
>>1443015
Keep your triggered tendencies to yourself. No one wants to see that shit except other babies.
>>
>>1443018
Keep deflecting like that and I'm sure no one will notice how you needlessly inserted your degerlnerate fetish into an unrelated thread on an SFW board with explicit rules against posting said content.
>>
>>1443052
Who molested you?
Did daddy give you an extra special tucking in?
>>
File: runners.png (409 B, 236x122)
409 B
409 B PNG
evening
im looking to print myself some runners for my table saw any programs that are easy to learn for this sort of thing. pic related is basically what i need, about 30cm long
>>
>>1443269
Blender, heeks cad, and freecad work well.
>>
>>1442815
>treebark
>>
>>1443226
I get that you're using the molestation insult as a last resort, but it doesn't reflect well on you or anyone who posts your type of content to imply that homosexuals routinely fuck children. It makes you all the more repugnant, in fact.
>>
File: mightbebigenough.jpg (157 KB, 1020x610)
157 KB
157 KB JPG
>>1443295
This printer might be big enough to print a special candle big enough to fill that gap that your father left in your bum
>>
>>1443292
thanks got it done in blender
>>
>>1443304
You're childish and disgusting.
>>
>>1443295
>>1443304

Both of you shut the fuck up or i'll turn this car around
>>
anybody use cura ultimaker on linux, cant edit the profile settings because it wont detect the printer to put the rest of the settings in.
>>
Does anyone have any good idea for making my part cooling fan quiet? Pisses me off that the only thing I can hear is the fucking blower and everything else is serene.
>>
>>1443478
>Does anyone have any good idea for making my part cooling fan quiet?
You switch to a large centrifugal blower pushing air through a duct.
>>
>>1442862
is extruded plastic not isotropic?
>>
>>1443779
Delamination and stress concentration due to the layers is commonly an issue
>>
>>1442815
unironically very useful.
>>
Where do you guys go for models nowadays?
Myminifactory is slowly turning into a wasteland of "premium" designs, and thingiverse is... thingiverse.
>>
>>1443478
Get a noctua and mount it on the blower with thin rubber.
>>
How much would I have to pay someone to model her, someone to print her, and someone to paint her?
>>
>>1443912
Find someone in /3/ to model it.
The rest should be easier.
>>
I am using this code in simplify 3d to pause at a layer height so i can add stuff to my prints
{REPLACE "\n; layer 11, Z = " "; layer 11\nG28 X0\nM300\nM25\nG92 E0\nG28 Y0 X0\n; layer 11"}

but the problem is that while paused the extruder does no longer maintain temperature and starts cooling down, so when i resume the print there is obviously no filament coming out since the extruder is not hot enough.
How can i change that script above so that the extruder maintains a temperature while paused?
>>
>>1443671
I already use a centrifugal blower but they are noisey as fuck. Are there any queit brands?.
>>
>>1443933
Why did you copy paste with linebreaks in? Jesus autism is a seriously disease.
>>
>>1443933
Use M600 instead of M25, or add more gcode to turn your heaters to temp after pause.
>>
>>1443948
Nice job making yourself look retarded. The line breaks are inserted into code by the script manager and they have to be there.

>>1443951
Will try, thanks.

It's frustrating as fuck. I tried like 10 different gcode variations and the print always pauses no problem, but then it will stop heating the hotend and never heats it up again.
If i issue the "M109 S195 T0" command (Heat hotend to 190C and wait for it to heat up before continuing)
The the printer waits for the hotend to heatup, but it doesn't heat up and after a minute or so i get a heatup error and the print fails.
>>
>>1443951
So I tried it and it worked!
But it brings one very annyoing side effect with it... the printer forces me to actually change filament (yeah i know, no shit) i have a bowden extruder so i have to wait until it pushes the whole filament out, and then push it back again, wait for to to extrude a whole bunch and then resume the print, not to mention that the risk of having a nozzle clog is much bigger when reinserting filament for no reason, than when simply pausing the print

Do you have any other idea that could work without having to change filament?
>>
hi anons
i would like to update the marlin fw in my printer

i did the fw displaying command and it says
IRMWARE_NAME:Marlin Michelangelo (Github) SOURCE_CODE_URL:https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Michelangelo EXTRUDER_COUNT: 1

do i assume correctly that protocol version means i am running marlin 1.0?
>>
>>1443293
>>
>>1443954
You don't HAVE to change filament dude, go look at the gcode page on the marlin website to see what parameters are involved.

You should use M600 E-1 L0 U0 X0 Y0 Z1 or something like that.
>>
>>1443968
Oh i see, i just used bare M600 so the printer defaulted to pushing out the fillament, i assume the E-1 means no retraction?
>>
>>1443969
>http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M600.html
This page will tell you everything, your printer may have default values it pushes out with a plain M600 call but it depends on your firmware configuration.
>>
>>1443960
I wouldn't assume anything; you're using whatever branch Tevo made of Marlin for the Michaelangelo. It doesn't look like anyone revises PROTOCOL_VERSION with the version number.
>>
>>1443972
What is the difference between L and U?
>>
>>1443993
nevermind
got it to work, all it does now is it extrudes about 20cm noodle before resuming print which is fine and desirable really, since i want to get rid of the plastic that was sitting in the nozzle while paused anyway
>>
>>1443912
Upwards of $100 or so, I'd wager.
>>
So i have 5m of fillament left on a spool, wat do? it's not enough for a print but seems like a shame to just toss i away...
>>
>>1443912
modelling would be by far the most expensive. printing cost would be about $2 in material
>>
>>1444206

Just print with it. When it runs out pause the print, insert a new spool, prime the nozzle and keep going.
>>
I can't watch Maker's Muse because his continuous grin is creepy. Why is it so creepy?
>>
>>1443993
>>1444035

U is the amount it retracts when it hits the command, L is the amount it primes with at the end of the command. At least thats how I understand the instructions on the marlin website.

E is the amount it retracts at the very start to make sure it doesn't spit shit all over when it moves to the load position. I suppose this should be set to your normal retraction number.
>>
>>1444222
because you can't stand to see someone who is 100% happy of where he is right now.
>>
>>1442530
Anyone have any idea which silicone you'd use to make these body safe? From what I've gathered you want platinum cure but not sure what brand.
>>
>>1444222
Cuz of SSRI's
>>
>>1444271
Smooth-on Dragon skin is pretty good, its designed to make wearable molds so it have to be save. I have been using the softest one at 70min cure time.

I just made a silicon fungus and it turned out great. I was doing it the wrong way all along:
- print 2 negative mold halves
- smooth it (any epoxy or XTC)
- fill it with silicone
Way too much work to fiddle with the model, and its a pain in the ass to print too, not to mention the visible mold lines.

The correct way turned out to be:
- print the fungus all in one
- smooth it
- coat it with a thin (2-3mm) layer of silicone
- remove the cured layer (negative) and fill that with silicone

Much less work with the model and printing, and you get to keep the original too.
De molding is difficult even with release agents, its like when you cant separate plastic bags but 1000 times harder. But if you get the separation going at one place its easy.
>>
>>1444293
Thank you for such a detailed answer! I've always wanted my own fantasy fungus garden and this is just the info I needed to make it a reality.
>>
>>1444305
Lurk in older threads, theres plenty more info there too.
>>
>>1440405
Fvu
>>
File: helmet paint1.jpg (87 KB, 1600x898)
87 KB
87 KB JPG
helmet anon here. happy to report that i rattlecanned the whole with with acceptable results. now off to the details+ weathering. only obstacle that i have to deal with in the future is the visor but i got myself some 1mm thick plexy that i will have to get in there somehow
>>
>>1440405
I would like to buy a 3d printer to make rapid prototypes of an item I'm working on CNC machining a few thousand of.

Because it's a complicated shape I have to make fixtures to hold it, and every time I update the model I usually need to make new fixtures to machine it.

So.. Which 3d printer is easy to operate for a noob and still has decent print quality?

budget under $400
>>
>>1444571
Tevo michalangelo
>>
>>1444582
is there a real advantage to the 220v one?
>>
>>1444585
No also order a heat bed for 20 bucks since it doesnt have one
>>
>>1444586
>5.9 inches cubed print envelope
>>
>>1444586
what filament?
does tevo sell the heated bed?
>>
>>1444588
No order 12v or 24v anet heatbed from aliexpress
Fillament PLA 1.75mm
>>
>>1444588
Also you will have to do some rigging to use the bed, it is not plug and play, you need to add a temperature sensor to monitor the temperarure. If you are a brainlet you can use glue instead of heat bed or buy a Printer with built in bed but it will cost much more
>>
File: helmet paint2.jpg (101 KB, 898x1600)
101 KB
101 KB JPG
>>1444568
and finished. end of blog
>>
>>1444593
Very nice blog. Looks awesome. Are you going to wear this thing? What did you do for comfort?
>>
I dont want to use Octopi, mainly because I object to using the NSA mindhack computers in my home. What is another way to do a nice timelapse of prints? I have a Duet3d but that seems to be low on Timelapse support n shieet
>>
File: 20180813_180455.jpg (1015 KB, 1693x1694)
1015 KB
1015 KB JPG
Anyone have an idea why these gaps are happening? Bed is level, I just did it. I already experimented with movement speed and feed rate, to no avail. It's always the first few centimeters of a new line that's being printed, same issue when starting a completely new print. About 10cm in the line becomes perfectly fine.
>>
>>1444613
Looks like it's delaminating, possibly. How are you calibrating your bed and what is the printing temperature?
>>
>>1444593
breatty neat, now make some kid's halloween great
>>
>>1444613

Looks like it's printing too cold to me
>>
>>1444593
Never understood why people like star strek so much, i mean it's okay, but not THAT good
>>
File: download.png (7 KB, 224x225)
7 KB
7 KB PNG
>>1444626
>>
File: helmet paint3.jpg (117 KB, 898x1600)
117 KB
117 KB JPG
>>1444599
was basically my first big project to see how things come together. may end up printing myself whole bodyarmour eventually but for now im just gonna hang it up a wall. (biggest problem keeping me from printing it, is the parts being too big for my printer)
>>1444621
>kid's
yeah...
>>1444626
bad bait
>>
>>1444616
>>1444624
Printing at 200°C. Calibrating with paper method.
>>
>>1444613
>>1444634
Lowering layer height help any? Also agree, it looks like it's printing too cold. Might just need a bit more feed rate / extruder temp / print speed tweaking, you never know

>always the first few centimeters of a new line that's being printed
That makes me wonder if it might have to do with retraction being set too high, could be that it's retracting and then not priming enough material back into the head before starting the next line...

Last resort, have your tried a different slicer?
>>
>>1444632
ok so if I buy this Tevo michelangelo and some filament what else would I need to know?
>>
>>1444675
I'm just gonna wait until later for other suggestions. Not many videos about the Tevo Michelangelo on youtube, which is worrying.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kxMhCFrQGg
>>
>>1444675
>what else would I need to know?
Not to discourage, but a lot. 3D printing within the sub-enterprise price range is far from plug and play. Expect to spend some time learning before you're able to get usable prints, especially for complex mechanical parts.

>>1444680
Could try something like a CR-10 or an Ender, those lines are well-known, lots of interchangeable parts. One is sub-200$, other is sub-600$. An Ender 3 with some mods could probably perform better than a stock 400$ printer from another brand, but to be honest I don't have too much experience with the brands out there today.

Check the OP, there are useful links. Also, if you have any buddies who're into 3d printing, buy them a beer sometime and see if they're willing to help you learn.
>>
>>1444689
what is the best place to buy an ender 3 with fast shipping?

Amazon has them at an inflated price, newegg has them at an even higher price. Chinese commies are really trying to fuck over these companies, I bet.
>>
>>1444680
Try looking at the anet a8. They're kind of a meme and require good amount of work an some upgrades to make it work, but they provide a good learning experience and you can find them for <$180. I find myself using mine over the MakerBot sometimes just because I like it.
>>
>>1444680
just save up and buy a prusa mk3. if you can't do that, get in touch with a local hackspace. if you can't do that, well enjoy 8 months of trying to get your shit to print correctly without burning your house down and endless other shit to deal with. Plug n Play doesnt exist at your price point except for the DaVinci baby printer which uses an inkjet printer business model (e.g. cheap printer, very expensive locked down filament).
>>
>>1444708
Not looking for a printer to be messing with, got enough junk machinery already.
>>
>>1444713
There are no printers in your price range that don't require messing with. Even if you buy a good/expensive printer, you'll still be having problems if you don't learn the ins and outs of how 3D printing works.
>>
>>1444713
If you want something that's purely plug and play, I probably wouldn't get anything under a grand or so and expect it to work perfectly. Even then, 3D printers are fickle things, no matter what you get you'll find yourself doing repairs and adjustments.
>>
>>1444710
>MK3 kit costs 750
Christ. I was going to recommend the MK1 since mine works fantastic ~3 years down the line but looks like they don't offer it anymore - MK2S might be worth considering, I don't know the details about it though
>>
>>1444726
So if your budget is 400 why not just wait more time and buy the MK3? I know for certain I would if I wanted as close to plug and play as possible.

I initially went with an Anet A8 because I didnt know if this autism was for me, but it turns out 3D printing reduces the frequency of my tantrums and help me manage my incontinence.
>>
>>1444680
That guy is an idiot.
And let me tell you why. He says the printer is shit because it has bad print adhesion when he tried to print on cold bed without tape or glue stick.
EVERY SINGLE PRINTER that has cold bed will have problems with print adhesion EVERY SINGLE ONE. This is not news. Ask anyone who 3d prints and he will tell you: Cold bed? Oh just use painter's tape and glue stick. Boom problem solved.
That is also why i recommended you buy the heatbed.
I recommend the tevo because i actually own it myself and i had nothing but flawless prints on it.
I used to use glue stick but it got tedious having to apply it every time so i installed the anet heatbed and ever since i had ZERO prints that came off.
Also tevo michalangelo is plug and play, no assembly required.
I guarantee you in your price range you won't get anything better.
If you decide to buy another printer (in your price it will very likely also not have heated bed) you will have the exact same problem this guy in the video said.
>>
>>1444757
I'm not the guy who's looking for a printer, just someone else who already has the MK1 - that would be >>1444713 probably
>>
>>1444763
Prusa is the Apple of 3D printing. Their products are incredibly overpriced pieces of completely average quality technology.
You are paying hundreds of $ for a brand name. And I am saying that as a someone who actually lives in the country as the prusa printer's HQ.
As with any electronics Ping Pong's merchandise will get you best band for the buck.
>>
>>1444765
But the pingpongs always send bent rods, substandard control boards, etc. I agree some of prusa's shit is overpriced a bit, but it's the piece of mind you have that everything once assembled will definitely not be slanty like a japs field of view.
>>
>>1444765
You're also paying for the research that goes into it, which everybody else just copies instead of improving. The guy's designed at least two golden standards of printing (Mendel and i3) so far, might as well help him make the next one
>>
>>1444773
Just a quick reminder that Prusa is a known child fondler and supreme nonce. Don't let your kids near him.
>>
>>1444773
>removable flexible bed
>resume printing after power loss
Thats about the all the useful improvements they did in the last years.
>>
>>1444775
>https://twitter.com/BenLevine33/status/1029010257211736065
LITERALLY USING CHILD LABOUR
>>
>>1444698
I got mine from Comgrow on Amazon. I don't mind paying a little more for extremely fast shipping and boss returns policy (lot of returns are accepted no questions asked). Other than Amazon, most sellers that specialize in 3d printing supplies are prolly OK. Just be sure Paypal is accepted if you don't buy from Amazon; ability to open a Paypal complaint is always peace of mind in case they try to screw you over.
I've hated Newegg for several years now, not worth shopping there ever.

>>1444708
>a8
And they've also been known to catch fire unless you replace most of the electrical components they ship with higher quality parts. Might as well just buy all the parts separate and scratch build at that point.

>>1444724
>>1444725
Truth. 3D printers =/= replicator from Star Trek, not even the >$30k enterprise machines.

>>1444762
>That guy is an idiot.
Also true, but the michelangelo has a tiny af bed.
Ender 3 assembly is piss easy if you check on Youtube beforehand.
>>
File: whosgonnawelcomeher.png (548 KB, 632x855)
548 KB
548 KB PNG
Who's gonna give her the traditional american welcome?
>>
>>1444872
....those are implants, right?
>>
File: 6i9tWFa.jpg (548 KB, 2550x1950)
548 KB
548 KB JPG
>>1444872
Dont support the fraud.
>>
>>1444883
you missed the joke.....
>>
>>1444883
>>1444872
>>1444880
Chicom party hates her, which makes me think you guys are faggoty Chink shills to care about her at all.

Fuck off.
>>
>>1445021
but they're implants, right
>>
File: peepo consumes.gif (851 KB, 400x300)
851 KB
851 KB GIF
>>1444880
>>1445028
Yes, there's even a (kind of tasteless) video about using LEDs to light them up)

>>1444883
I'm not going to touch the "cons people out of money" part, but
>taught her everything she knows
>both use same printer and live in the same place
Are you implying couples in a relationship with each other should keep their interests separate and never touch each others' stuff or something? "boyfriend/girlfriend seen at each other's homes" so scary, oh no

>>1445021
>Communist party hates her so we should hate her too
>anybody who enjoys her work is a Chinese shill
I don't even know what kind of argument this is
>>
File: chinks.png (383 KB, 1400x5552)
383 KB
383 KB PNG
>>1444765
>Prusa is the Apple of 3D printing. Their products are incredibly overpriced pieces of completely average quality technology.

t. Chang
>>
>>1445037
I order from china all the time, in fact i ordered over 100 times and never had a single problem.
But i only buy stuff that costs like $5 (the priciest thing i ordered was $250 3D printer) so even if i got scammed it's same money loss like buying a big mac at mcdonalds and then accidentaly dropping it into the river
>>
>>1445074
>I order from china all the time, in fact i ordered over 100 times and never had a single problem.

They don't generally screw you you for the small stuff. Especially if you're buying through sites like eBay, which will go "lol fuck you you get no money" to the seller if the buyer can produce even the weakest evidence they've been defrauded. Even for the Chinese, it's just not worth it to scam a few people out of a $2 USB cable.

My hobbies essentially *require* easy access to Chinese-produced goods, because a lot of what I'm after is industrial parts that have no consumer market and getting them from anywhere else is expensive to the point of being obscene. I've spent hundreds at a time on stuff like ballscrews, linear bearings, motors, electronics, etc. But there's no way I'd be comfortable doing that without some middleman (who is NOT based in China) that can provide some recourse if the seller tries to pull a fast one.

Buying in industrial quantities is a whole other ball game.
>>
>>1445082
>anywhere else is expensive to the point of being obscene.
Yeah. That shit is riddiculous.
I love how local businesses are like "Omg y u no shop here you cunts? Y u no support us and your country? Stop buying from china fuck you"
Oh yeah? You think i wouldn't rather buy my stuff here at the local store and have it right away instead of having to wait a month for the delivery?
But when i try to do that i find out they don't have 90% of the things that the chinks sell, and the ones they have literally cost TWENTY TIMES more than nearly identical product from ping pong
>>
File: IMG_20180814_104158.jpg (3.32 MB, 3456x4608)
3.32 MB
3.32 MB JPG
So my raceteam wants me to run the 3D-printers. They have pic related for storage right now, any way to improve this? The IKEA bins we have right now don't fit, I've got about 60-70 750g rolls, and a four of those huge 6kg ones.
>>
>>1445085
Why do you think prices are so high anon? Its because they take the risk and asspain of dealing with chinese "businessmen", and you dont.
>>
>>1445090
Small shops can bulk order on aliexpress and be completely covered against fraud there is little to no risk.
I could understand say 30% mark up in price, but anything more than that, they can just kiss my ass go do bankrupt greedy jews
>>
>>1445090
>Its because they take the risk and asspain of dealing with chinese "businessmen", and you dont.
No, it's because they buy from a local distributor who buys from a nationwide distributor who buys from another company that imports from China, and each company adds another 40-50% profit on the price.
>>
File: DSC_4807.jpg (2.12 MB, 3840x2160)
2.12 MB
2.12 MB JPG
Just got my CR-10s recently and seemed to print fine until I started printing tall items.
When it got a couple inches in height, the layers would sometimes delaminate (pic related), so I upped the extruder temp from 200 to 205, but it hasn't really helped.
Do you think another 5 degrees would fix it?
Also, my layer height has been .2mm
>>
>>1445091
Enjoy trying to get Aliexpress to refund you when the shit you ordered is put of spec or catches on fire. Its not as simple as people think because they have only ever ordered a handful of leds and some steppers motors. When you move to other more expensive stuff the quality requirements go up and the reliability goes through the floor.

I know a company who bought a mixer for making adhesives from chinese for 1/10th the price of local manufacturer. Turns out its completely underspecced, oil jacket leaking 200C oil, motors underpowered (measured to be below quoted rating), rust on the blades, etc. Etc.

Buy local or go live in China. Im not even Trumpian but Chinese workmanship makes me look like stradivarius.
>>
>>1445088

Get some big ziploc bags and dessicant packets to put the spools in.
>>
>>1445103

Looks more underextrudy than straight-up delaminated. No idea why it would do that for particular layers though...
>>
>>1445104
Fuck you. I order other stuff too like cables and stuff, look.
>>
>>1445110
>not a single order over $100.

Excellent quality bait. I concede.
>>
Just bought babby's first 3d printer, pretty hyped
>shipping estimate: 1 month

couldn't resist the ender 3 pricing from gearbest even if they didnt have ready stocks, used the savings to buy the creality ultrabase just because warped beds seems to be a common enough issue
>>
>>1445106
>ziploc bags and dessicant packets
Fuck why didn't I think of that. Here I am looking for air tight rubbermaid bins to put my rolls in... Actually, I'm not sure having regular PLA out in open is really a concern. I probably print frequently enough to go through a roll before the humidity becomes a problem.

>>1445120
Not sure how much the ultrabase cost but a borosilicate sheet would've worked fine clipped on top of the bed so long as the aluminum wasn't really bad bent in half. But some people don't like printing on glass so eh.
>>
>>1445106
So then I have the individual rolls covered, but how do I properly store them instead of a rack? They're taking up valuable space.

Also, I probably need to dry them before putting them in bags. They've been out there for at least two years in unkown humidity, I don't even know which ones are salvagable. Thankfully we have an industrial pellet dryer.
>>
>>1444765
>Prusa is the Apple of 3D printing.
No, Ultimaker is the Apple of 3D printing.
>>
>>1445103
I've been struggling with this problem for months, kept my brain in bad order. Please try changing: slicer, and wall line count. I've been runnIng on 1 line for a wall and it manages to underextrude like that randomly, nothing to do with retraction or anything else. Even changed the extruder gear. Try bumping wall line count to 3 or 4, inner to outer.
>>
>>1445166
I guess i'll try Slic3r instead of Cura for a bit then.

I've only ever printed with a minimum of 3 wall lines. For the last few prints (inc the print the the photo) I've had 5 wall lines.
Could it possibly have something to do with flow rates?
>>
>>1445146
was something like 20 bucks, but yeah glass seems like a doozy if i have to apply glue and wipe it off all the time. I'm expecting the bed to come warped anyway, if it happens to be flat enough i could always sell off the ultrabase at a slight loss.
>>
File: 20180814_085530.jpg (832 KB, 2901x2610)
832 KB
832 KB JPG
I often get what looks like over extrusion on the inside corners of my prints, not sure what's causing it. Tried changing temps, feed rate, flow rate, but nothing completely gets rid of it unless I print slow as shit.
Advice?
>>
>>1444786
>a8 catches fire

The replacement part is $6 and all you do is plug a wire into it. Took me about a minute. Realistically, if someone is competent with electronics, it's a great printer for the money.
>>
>>1445150
Not really, post ultimaker 2 they stopped giving a shit about the hobbyist market and started focusing on schools and business

The true apple of the hobbyist 3D printing segment would be XYZ, they give 0 shits about the buyers, DRM filament and resins, shit parts and QC, retarded users and apologists
>>
>>1445088
I don't remember which one, but there's a bin you can find at Walmart or something that apparently fits them perfectly
>>
>>1445191
It is caused by pressure build up in the hotend which leads to overextrusion when the printhead gets slower at direction changes. It can have a ton of different reasons and is often the combination of a lot little things, like bowden too long, nozzle slightly clogged, etc
>>
>>1445150
Not really, Ultimaker is opensource and there are lots of generic replacements for the parts. With the Apple, if you fry one capacitor you need to buy an entirely new product. Makerbot is the Apple of 3D printers, but pretty much every other closed-source and toy-like 3d printer (davinci, dremel ideapro, robox, etc) could be the Macbook of 3D printers.
>>
>>1445104
>when the shit you ordered is put of spec or catches on fire
I always get aliexpress refunds because I don't try to scam the happy chinese marchants. I've ordered linear rails, stepper motors, microcontrollers, programmers, tools of every kind. When I order 50 of something and only 1 of them is defective, I ask for a 1.70$ refund and either I get it quickly or the seller offers me a discount for the next purchase. I have 292 orders total.
>>
>>1445146
>Here I am looking for air tight rubbermaid bins to put my rolls in

Do that instead of the ziploc bags. They're easily punctured, pretty much worthless for keeping the filament dry. A proper air tight container will keep your silica dry for months if not years. Use indicating silica rather than the silica packets and you'll see how much of a difference an air tight container makes.
>>
>>1445175
>but yeah glass seems like a doozy i
never understood this meme
I have a mirror and did close to 1000 prints on it and never one had i use any glue or tape. I print directly on the mirror and the parts holds like if they were glued down, yet when the mirror cools i can lift them up with minimum force if any at all
>>
>>1445211
>Not really, post ultimaker 2 they stopped giving a shit about the hobbyist market and started focusing on schools and business
This.

btw. In my opinion a used Ultimaker 2+ for <1k€ is one of the best value for money deals currently.
>>
>>1445211
>>1445302
>t. Ultimaker shills
Just kidding, my school has a farm of 4 UM1s and 10 UM2+s
>>
File: SpaceBags_x.jpg (51 KB, 600x600)
51 KB
51 KB JPG
>>1445148

Looking at the pic, the rack should be fine. It just needs to be tidied up so it has only filament and not random crap mixed with it. Spools should be sorted by material and color, then organized into stacks in a way where stacks of a different type don't go behind eachother. Use that blue tape to label what they are.

>>1445264

I've never had a problem with them being punctured, and airtight containers use up much more space and the cost adds up a lot more when you have 60-70 spools. Alternatively it's possible to use those vacuum-seal bags that have a port with a valve for a vacuum cleaner to attach to.
>>
So a few things before I buy this Ender 3 in my amazon cart.

Quick rundown on PLA vs ABS?

Chinese hardware that requires some kind of micro fucking SD to use without internet connection?

Chinese software? Are people dumb enough to run this?

What uh "slicer" software or whatever is best?
>>
>>1445457

>Quick rundown on PLA vs ABS?

- PETG is preferred over ABS for me and a lot of people nowadays, it's easier to print with because it doesnt shrink like ABS and for a bunch of other reasons
- PLA is easiest to print with, ABS ideally needs an enclosed printer.
- Mechanical properties: PLA is hard and brittle, ABS is more elastic and thus less prone to snapping off. PETG is somewhere in between
- Temperature resistance: PLA will melt in boiling water or if you leave the print in a car on a hot day. ABS won't.
- Smell: ABS smells like a tyre fire, PLA is a slight hint of burnt waffles, PETG emits no smell

> Chinese hardware that requires some kind of micro fucking SD to use without internet connection?

You can wire most printers directly via USB if you dont want to bother with SD cards

>Chinese software? Are people dumb enough to run this?

There is no chinese software, only chinked versions of multinational open-source software. Most commonly the firmware (Marlin usually) is edited to have a bunch of safety alarms/features disabled so they don't go off due to questionable build quality.

>What uh "slicer" software or whatever is best?

That's a Pepsi/Coke type situation: Slic3r vs Cura. Simplify3D is popular too but its 149$
>>
>>1445487
ok well I already ordered the ender 3 with some filament (PLA) and nozzles

in a couple days I will be printing
>>
Where should I buy cheap filament for building novelty items like toys and vases aswell better filaments for building stuff that needs to look good or be sorta mechanically strong.

Also where do I source stronger stuff like Nylon or PC, stuff that needs to be very strong. I'm planning on printing gun parts for fun if it works out well enough to, mostly an AR lower, so it needs to be reasonably strong. Both require a full metal hot end so I dont kill myself and my cats, so I have that part covered I think.
>>
>order new nozzle
>it fits but is slightly shorter than old nozzle
>every time i change nozzzle, i have to manually relevel the bed and can't use auto leveling
just murderkill me ;_;
>>
>>1445170
Maybe! You may be printing too fast for your the heat the extruder puts out. If it's not, see if you can replace the teflon throat. It's just very odd that it's doing that at taller objects. I had my share of this issue on random heights. Cura should still be good, and what you just said makes me think everything should be ok. Check the teflon tube and slide some filament in by hand, grab a new tube and see how that feels, too. If it feels any different, it might be time to replace it.

Hell I just threw in a new reel of PLA from esun and my printer started throwing a fit, getting the same problem.
>>
>>1445690
>tfw I just babystep the nozzle and save that to firmware over the web interface.

Duet feelsgoodman.
>>
>>1445191

Don't use the concentric fill pattern in Cura, it's often shit
>>
>>1445714
He could also just change the z-offset in the slicer, since he needs a different profile for a different nozzle anyway.
>>
>>1445722
That's not concentric fill, that's just one of the bottom layers filling in in the pic.
But yeah, concentric usually sucks ass. Shame though; concentric and concentric 3D are meant to let you have infill without it showing through the shell when light hits it (e.g. for translucent prints) because the infill never touches the outer wall, only top and bottom.

As other anon suggested, it does make sense that it might be pressure buildup in the extruder that's coming out when the head decelerates in the corners. I'm wondering how difficult / effective it might be to replace the bowden on the ender 3 with a direct extruder.
>>
>>1445726
Thats not ideal though as you have to keep fucking around with the slicer whereas modifying firmware leaves old gcode useable.
>>
>>1445827
But you can't use that old gcode ayway when you change to a nozzle with a different diameter or material.

Unless he meant changing the nozzle with the exact same type.
But how do ruin your nozzles that frequently?
>>
>>1445833
Harsh filaments.
>>
File: layer-height-test-06.jpg (43 KB, 960x540)
43 KB
43 KB JPG
>>1445802

It can use concentric for the top and bottom layers too, you can see it's doing it in the pic. An anon was having the same issue in a previous thread where it would leave boogers wherever the lines met eachother in corners. To make matters worse the "non-concentric" option was hidden away in Cura in the big list of "advanced" features.

Normally the layers should have lines going in the same direction at 45 degrees to the XY plane and they alternate by 90 degrees every layer like in the pic here.
>>
Man, I forgot how much I hated waiting on shipping.
>>
File: 20180815_133944.jpg (3.04 MB, 4032x3024)
3.04 MB
3.04 MB JPG
My monoprice just got here
Is it supposed to make this much noise? It almost sounds like its playing music

>inb4 clean your desk
I know its horrid, but me and the wife are sharing one until we move
>>
>>1445959
cheap steppers make lots of noise, if it is quite audible I'd guess they are powerful steppers.
>>
File: 1523749720967.jpg (53 KB, 500x383)
53 KB
53 KB JPG
>>1445910
You're telling me, I've went through like $200 worth of aluminum making small changes, machining new fixtures, then machining the slightly modified part.

Bought a 3d printer to save time and money fitting these parts together.
>>
>>1445910
>got a friend in Austria
>eagerly waiting for his first 3d printer kit from china
>delivery was supposed to be slow
>1-2 month no news
>notification:"package has reached its destination country"
>Yay
>Destination country: Australia
>Wait, what?
Took him another month to get his money back.
>>
>>1445487
>PETG emits no smell
Half-true. It is smelly, like natural paper. But it only takes a short time to get used to the smell. I tend to get used to it after a day.

PLA has a smell also, but it's like a scent-free candle. You can go away from it for a few days and come back and notice it, but you get used to it in an hour.
>>
>>1446197
>smelling xenoestrogens 24/7
>>
>>1445959
Mine played the song while printing the cat too. It's pretty loud but I like that, lets me sort of monitor the prints by ear.
>>
File: Less old.jpg (75 KB, 599x576)
75 KB
75 KB JPG
I'm visiting my grandparents soon and don't a chance to do so often (once every few years). What can I print for them that they would find useful? They're very practical, hardy people, so stuff like trinkets or desk toys are right out, as are things like "coin tray" or "bag carrier". I am able to design things myself so if I can't find an exact model on thingiverse it's no problem, but I'd like to make something memorable for them that they could regularly use.
>>
>>1446303
bag holders or some of the accesiblity stuff might be helpful
>>
>>1446303
Some context: They're all from the former Soviet Union, if that helps narrow it down or if somebody here from there finds specific things useful.
>>
>>1446311
sickle sharpening jig?
>>
>>1446311
Print a winch mechanism so you can let them down one last time.
>>
>>1446311

IMO it doesn't really matter what you get them, they'd just be happy to see you. Just buying them something they'd find useful is hard enough when you don't visit them often enough to know what they actually need. Add "it has to be 3d printed" ontop of that and you've made the task even more difficult. The best gift you can give is helping them out with work and things around the house while you're there.
>>
>>1446303
>What can I print for them that they would find useful?
A cup for reading glasses. You can add a magnetic hook so they can hang on on their fridge, or make the mounting hole oblong so they can attach it to a wall where they need them to predictably be.
>>
I need to make stamps, does a rubber spray exist? I need to coat the bottom in it so it holds ink well
>>
>>1446379

I'm sure there are plenty of rubberizing sprays, but you can also print it with flexible filament
>>
complete fucking novice here. if I have some idea of a device enclosure that I want (somethung like a gameboy or 10 key pad size object), but dont want to spend on a whole printer just to see if I like it, are there any reliable services out there that will print out designs for you? what program could I use to build the blueprint/dimensions?
>>
>>1446427
>complete fucking novice here.
okay
>if I have some idea of a device enclosure that I want (somethung like a gameboy or 10 key pad size object), but dont want to spend on a whole printer just to see if I like it, are there any reliable services out there that will print out designs for you?
There are plenty professional companies, shapeways among others come to mind. They tend to be rather costy tho, meaning you could easily spent 30-60 bucks on your enclosure. There were hubs for regular people printing stuff, but those pretty much got overtaken by the print services of the original firms.
>what program could I use to build the blueprint/dimensions?
Would suggest tinkercad, works in your browser, is free and quite easy to handle.
>>
>>1446427
Go to your local library, they all have them now
>>
>>1444780
Mediocre bait at best
>>
>>1444762
>Oh just use painter's tape and glue stick
No glue stick on painter's tape, buddy
>>
File: Plastidip.jpg (43 KB, 453x741)
43 KB
43 KB JPG
>>1446379
Plastidip is pretty versatile.
>>
>>1446379
Print out the negative, fill it in with silicone caulk or 2 component silicone.
>>
File: pizza.jpg (35 KB, 720x650)
35 KB
35 KB JPG
>>1442605
That was a good day on /k/.
>>
>>1440405
>Babbys first
What do you guys think of OnShape? I was about to try it; it'd also be my first time learning 3D modeling.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sqh3FM12KVg

3d printing tips

>>1446669
I bought a Creality Ender 3 yesterday, should be here tomorrow.
>>
>>1446737
>"over the next several minutes"
>video is 34 minutes long
TL;DW
>>
File: 20180816_144835.jpg (850 KB, 3024x2526)
850 KB
850 KB JPG
RIP Skyking


>>1446748
>TL;DW
Bud, if you don't have much patience, 3D printing is not for you.

But you didn't miss much, not the best video and the guy's mic is potato. There are far better guides out there for beginners.
>>
>>1446759
I have plenty of patience, just not for shitty youtubers that stretch content 10x what it should be so they get more ad money
>>
>>1446737
I put it on 1.5 speed and skipped through everytime I got bored, finished the video in about 3 seconds. Better luck next time.
>>
>>1446427
Your best option is to find someone in your area and pay them to print it. Find a hackerspace (yes blah blah its a gay term) nearby if possible as they normally have a few printers and people are thirsty to help young supple boys.
>>
File: YouTube.png (10 KB, 497x110)
10 KB
10 KB PNG
>>1446737
>>
>>1441460
Could always splash out for a double extruder setup
>>
>>1446669
Go for fusion 360, onshape unless you are a paying license holder all your files are public + others are free to take those models and own the rights to them, and sell them
>>
>>1446823
>fusion 360
Can I get it for free?
>>
>>1446857
Yes. Go download the free trial, click subscribe now once it's running, click enthusiast/non-commercial use. wa la
>>
What color Pla should I get?
>>
>>1446857
There's a free version, but they don't make it too apparent how to get it. Here's this:
https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-activate-start-up-or-educational-licensing-for-Fusion-360.html
There they call it start-up, enthusiast, or hobbyist, but it's all the same thing.

>>1446889
Can't go wrong with black or white
>>
>>1446893
There'll be no issue using the files created with it to print stuff, right?
>>
>>1446895
So you design your doodads in fusion or whatever CAD / modeling software you choose. After the design process is done you export the files (usually as .stl or .obj) from there into the slicer software, like cura or slic3r. The slicer is what converts the object you've designed into gcode that the printer understands, and the slicer also determines a lot of the various physical aspects of the part ranging from scale and orientation on the bed, to print temperatures, support structures, infill, shell thickness, layer height, etc.
Compatibility is rarely an issue these days; most modeling software is capable of exporting to at least one file format that can be read by a slicer. And modern slicers can usually read the native file types that some CAD software saves as.
>>
>>1446898
Ah. okay. I thought they would try something weird if I made files on a "trial" version.
I have AutoCAD and 360 Desktop pirated, though. Will that be an issue?
>>
>>1446899
Hard to say.
Autodesk is weird with their software license / activator bullshit. I've had pirated versions, then had to do a clean uninstall when I switched to student versions for college, and I've had to do clean uninstall / reinstall again when I changed from Inventor 2018 to 2019 because the new installation wouldn't activate at first, and that's with a legal license...
With fusion you have to log in before you can use it and its supposed to stay logged in, but every other time I launch it I have to log in again. And of course fusion 360 tries push the A360 cloud bullshit pretty hard.
Inventor doesn't do that, which (among other features and more comfy UI) is why I'll probably pirate it when my student license runs out. I don't make any money off of 3D printing stuff at the moment, so I don't mind being less than legal about the software, but ethics is a different conversion entirely. With fusion 360 you can make up to 100k a year and still use the free license.
>>
>>1446899
>>1446895
>>1446857
Fusion 360 is free if you're a "hobbyist" (which is extremely broad) up to you profiting some hundred-thousand-dollar amount off of per year, I think. You'll be fine unless you make a literal business out of your printing/designs.
>>
Fuck in retarded
I just had to unclog the nozzle of my 2 day old printer because I left the filament loaded after I finished my print before I left for work
It was wayyy easier than I thought it would be though
>>
>>1446924
wait, you say you can't leave your fillament loaded? I've been doing this for 6 years no problems.
>>
Fusion 360 isn't free, as in freedom. Why spend all the time and effort learning proprietry software that could leave you subject to the whims of a corporation?
I'd recommend openScad for autists and blender for artists.

>>1446924
I've only been printing about a month, but I haven't had a clog.
My first spool came with a recommendation of adding at least a 10mm retract at the end of prints to avoid clogs. Requires the same amount extra extrusion at the beginning of prints. Guess it works.
>>
>>1446924
>>1446954
>>1447013
Never pulled it out. Never had a problem with it.




Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.