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File: jake_the_snake_eu.jpg (779 KB, 2894x1739)
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Previous thread >>1043316

A thread for questions about buying bikes


Got a Cannondale CAADX 105 that's otherwise great but I want a smaller frame size because trails and shit because fun.
I could buy another one with a smaller frame but also interested in the 2016 Kona Jake the Snake.

Also looked at Kona Rove (not sure about the 1x11 meme for my purposes though, for one) and the 2017 Jake (not sure about the ride of an aluminum fork).

Jake the Snake has thru-axle which is preferable.

G2gfast is very important but also usability (and fun) in places where g2gfast shouldn't go is of importance. Ability to fit wider tires would be great but not at terrible cost to g2gfast.

Rides vary in length ≈30-150 km (20-90 mi). Usually anywhere up to half of it is gravel/trails kind of shit. I ride in all sorts of places. I also ride a lot on snow and ice (4-5 months of snow coverage per winter).

Also taken a liking to occasional touring. Mostly tenting over weekends or so.

Bike of choice is CX because I'm afraid other more off roady/touring ones would be slow turds on asphalt. Also fun bikes to ride beyond their comfort zone.

Any other suggestions are welcome, too

tl;dr: which bike is gud 4 g2gfast but also adventure and shit?
>>
90s rigid MTB with semi slicks
>>
why do I wanna buy another bike when the one I have cost $1000 and is perfectly good?
>>
>>1051854
because there's an emtiness in your heart from living a meaningless life, and your bicycle is the only thing that's always there for you, and you subconsciously think that getting another bike means maybe she'll come back to you some day but you know it isn't true and you don't even feel like riding right now because that would leave you alone with your memories, you'd rather just look at pictures of bikes on the internet and pretend that you still know what happiness feels like
>>
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>>1051854
it's fun have many bikes and being able to pick whichever strikes your fancy on a given day
>>
I've had my eyes on this beauty for some time now. Redpill me on ISPs.
>>
>>1051879
You have to spend money on a proper fit
>>
>>1051822
I'm thinking of getting a new bike, looking to use it to commute to and from work, currently I have a road bike and I put all my gear in a backpack because I can't put panniers on it but that's really annoying on my back and I don't enjoy it very much whenever I have more than my shoes and clothes to carry(I work in a library, so I occasionally have to bring home a few books, usually I save them for car days but occasionally I can't avoid it).

I live in an area with a lot of hills in it but most of my travelling is on the flat leading out of the area towards and back from work(approx 15kms away), the hills are the first 2-3kms.

Is it worth buying a commuter bike in this case considering that I've been getting by pretty well with my current set-up for a few years now? My estimated budget is about $1000-$1500 in June(I'm in Australia so that's winter here), just looking at options right now.
And what are some decent components to throw onto a commuter bike?
>>
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>>1051905
>because I can't put panniers on it
Are you sure? There are tons of racks and adapters that attach to the dropouts and brake mounts.
>>
I have an old bike. The tire was sized 622*23 and the rim is 622. After inflating it to recommended pressure the tube poked out of the tire like a globe and exploded. The tires are old so I need to change them. Should I be getting a 622*25C instead? Can I get away with either? I found a pretty good deal on a pair of 25C
>>
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>>1051910
You can consult this chart to make sure but it should be fine. Your previous tube probably exploded because it was pinched somewhere or otherwise properly inmounted, nothing to do with its width.
>>
>>1051879
I'm also open to frame suggestions if you think there's something better available for the same or lower price. Black as a main color is not an option.

>>1051899
I don't see how that makes any difference.
>>
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>>1051906
I've bought it over to a few bike shops over the years and they all say the same, it isn't built for it or something and adaptors wouldn't fit.
I haven't really been bothered by it because until last year I was unemployed so cycling regularly with clothes and gear wasn't an issue.

It's a 2013 Felt F75(picture isn't mine but its the same bike). I love it but I'm sick of carrying everything on my back.
>>
>>1051913
Fucking great info thanks
>>
>>1051921
The one I posted is specifically for bikes like yours that don't have rack/fender attachment points and there are others like it if you look around online. This thread somehow turned into BQG
>>
>>1051919
If you have an integrated seatpost you have to cut it, so getting the fit right the first time is important since you cant just most it up and down
>>
Reposting from the other thread looking for entry level mountain bike suggestions. If I could feasibly find them at a local bike shop instead of paying 100 bucks for shipping from an exclusive direct only site that would be great as well.
>>
>>1051940
How is anyone supposed to know what bikes does your LBS carry
>>
>>1051906
not him but thanks anon, that shit makes my day
>>
>>1051906
>>1051936
a guy in my neighborhood has one of those gimpy racks like in the image, it flops around like mad but he needed it for his fred frame that lacked eyelets

2/10 would not buy
>>
>>1051937
I understand that. However I don't see how that would ever be a problem. I already have a bike that fits me correctly, measuring tape, hacksaw and can do math. And if cutting a >2k € frame seems too scary paying something for a LBS to do it for me isn't going to hurt much. Though I'd trust myself over some shitty LBS mechanic.

Besides there's like 2.5 cm of adjusting capability.
>>
>>1051942
You don't have to. I'm looking for recommendations on brands that are widespread more than anything. Obscure brands available only online or available only in Spain or whatever are not very helpful I'm afraid.
>>
>>1051947
So you just want people to namedrop popular brands that make entry-level MTBs? Fine:
Trek
Specialized
Cannondale

Have fun
>>
>>1051948
Models, bro. Models. I'm sorry but I can't buy a the specific bike from your small brand only available on the equinox in cisalpine Gaul. I'd really like to but it is just not happening.
>>
>>1051961
Please stop being retarded. Those are some of the biggest bike brands unless you shop at Walmart and think GMC is the biggest bike brand. If you can't even be assed to do your own research, then you're going to be buying based on price point rather than features anyways.
>>
>>1051961
How about this: go to your local bike shop, ask for which models would they recommend for your budget, then come back with a list and we'll recommend some.
>>
>>1051854
Don't fall into the trap, I had a low tier bike, bought a new one, nicer with 105 which I know It was more than enough for me and I love it...two days after the purchase I was still looking at other bikes on the web.
>>
>>1051969
>talking to people
>talking to normies
>REEEEE
What if the conversation doesn't go according to the script? He might be humiliated and he won't even be able to pedantically lecture the shop clerk!

It's very important to memorize trivia on the internet before any real-life interactions, going outside without an extremely specific plan is dangerous and can lead to unexpected things happening.
>>
Hello /n/

So I want to pull my twin boys around in a weehoo iGo 2, pictured. Daily rides, just dad handling the loading up and all that

The problem is that the thing is not free standing. Twin two year olds are tough to keep still and load up unless the bike is free standing

The thing has an optional kickstand, but it's not that strong. What I want to try is using that kickstand in conjunction with a heavy duty Ursus Jumbo kickstand on the bike itself

So my question:

What's a good off-the-shelf shelf bike that takes a kickstand (or better, has a dedicated kickstand plate), and also has very low gearing options, something like 19 gear inches at the bottom end.

Other pluses would be fat tire options.

I was looking at the Giant Toughroad and the Kona Big Rove, but I don't think either will take the Ursus kickstand.

I'm debating flat bars too. I only have owned do bars but I'm okay with going slow and I'm thinking uptight riding will be safer and more stable with some wide MTB bars

Thanks babes
>>
>>1051986
>I only have owned do bars

Drop bars*
>>
>>1051986
>my twin boys
What is this a euphemism for? I don't get it.
>>
>>1051945
Really? Because my bud decided to bring his carbon fredsled to Japan for a week-long CC tour, and one of these Axiom Streamliner racks held up just fine.

There's a guy at work who commutes 60 miles round-trip every day by bike; he hangs a single pannier off the side of one of these racks and it's lasted two years so far.

The load capacity of them isn't super high (duh, they're aluminum and mount to the brake bridge), but they're cheap and you can stick one on any road bike.
>>
>>1051946
Might be an issue if you want to sell the bike.
I'm not too into ISPs but from what I understand they are stiffer and lighter than normal seatposts.
The TCR is a cool bike, if I had to get another performance bike a TCR is pretty far up my list of what I want.

Go for it anon
>>
Anyone lug their dog around with them for day trips?

I got a 25 lb dog and am brainstorming methods to get him out for camping trips with me.

My thoughts thus far were kid-trailer or a basket for my rack.

Any luck? I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel on dog-transit.
>>
>>1052051
I've seen several people using kid trailers. Also seen people have their dog run beside them.
>>
>>1052088
>Also seen people have their dog run beside them.
How retarded are people, jesus christ.
>>
>>1052046
They're really not lighter than an ultralight post. By going proprietary, you give up the opportunity for weight weenie seatposts. They're probably lighter than a generic OEM seatpost. Stiffer isn't really an advantage on seatposts, considering people tend to like compliance.
>>
>>1052099
A lot of high end bikes these days uses proprietary seatposts anyway (the lower versions of both TCR and Propel uses proprietary seatposts), so you cant really go weight weenie on the seatpost anyway
>>
>>1052106
If you mean aero posts. But if you're looking at aero bikes you get the one with the features you like or the drag figures you're willing to pay for. You're looking at the whole package at that point, so the weight of a part doesn't matter because you need to use the entire frameset together.
>>
>>1051870
very astute
>>
>>1052125
TCR really isn't an aero frame yet it has proprietary semi aero seatpost. The TCR isn't even the ultimate weight weenie frame.

>>1052046
I'm planning on buying a frame for the next 5 - 10 years now so resale isn't really on the top of my list in priorities.

I rode the cheapest TCR frame for 1200 km in 2 weeks last summer and it seemed pretty great. I'll probably end up pulling the trigger on this soon.
>>
>>1051822

>no responses

I was probably too autistic writing that. Let me rephrase:

Cannondale CAADX has a more road-bike like geometry than Kona. How much does that affect g2gfastness? Or are they pretty much the same?

t. OP
>>
When do new bike models usually come out? Is it a bad time to buy a new bike now? It seems a lot of shops are out of the current year models in my size.
>>
>>1052240
I have a felt f75 road bike and i bought a specialized diverge last week. I'm pretty sure the felt is a bit faster, but the diverge is still pretty fast. I only average about 1-2 km/h less on the diverge and I'm not sure I've even done a fair test (only been able to ride it twice) and once with a mate who was slower and another time I spent a bunch of the ride offroad

The caadx is a cyclocross bike so i don't really get why you would want another one of the same type. wouldn't it make more sense to get a pure road bike instead of a 2nd offroad bike?

if you just want a 2nd allaround bike then i would recommend the diverge
>>
>>1052281
I'm gonna sell the old one
>>
If I'm using a friction shifter and it takes quite a bit of strenght to shift down to lighter cogs but the lightest breeze shifts up all the way to the heaviest cog, is it safe to assume they're shitty shifters? Or could it be a shitty RD?
>>
My local bike shop just offered me a Scott Aspect 950 that just came in, wasn't even assembled yet. I forgot to ask if it was 2016 or 17 but I'm assuming it's 2017 by how she talked. She offered me $600 for it. It seems to have a feature set on par with some more expensive bikes they had and the price is in my sweet spot. I'm not going hardcore into biking, just wanting to get my feet wet without breaking the bank or risking getting burned by buying a used one that is no good.

Anyone have an opinion on this bike?
>>
>>1052298
my guess is your shift cables are old and need to be replaced, or the little plastic bit that holds the cable where it goes under the bb is dirty and the cable isn't moving smoothly through there

in any case, it is usually going to take more strength to shift to larger cogs than to smaller cogs, since going to a smaller cog is just loosening the cable

also check that the rear limits are correct and its indexed properly, the indexing adjustment still matters a bit for friction shifters, because if you're near the limit of the friction shifters they're harder to move
>>
Can anyone give me names of some more recent (2010 or newer I suppose) carbon bikes that came with threaded BBs? Planning on starting a new build soon and would greatly prefer to find a lightly used frame with a threaded BB for convenience and durability.
>>
>>1052300
seems fine for a low spec first bike. i will say this though: once you catch the bug you're gonna end up buying a new bike next year with better parts.
>>
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>>1052088
Can you curl up inside that thing to sleep in?

Can I sleep in my bike /n/?
>>
>>1052356
Planet X uses threaded I think
>>
>>1052441
The alternative I saw at another store was a Rockhopper Sport 29 for 625. Same price as I see it online so doesn't seem to be a rip at least.

You may be right I have to buy a new one next year if it really gets me. I wonder which would have more resell value?
>>
>>1052273
New models at winter I think.
>>
>>1052325
The cable is new and it has full housing. I know it should take more strenght to shift to larger cogs, but in this case the difference is ridiculous. And it gets progressively harder the bigger I go. The limits are properly set up. I'm still suspecting it's the RD's fault though, it's pretty old and kind of moves around.
>>
>>1052273
>>1052462

Next year models tend to be out around june/july. If I want to get a good deal on last year's stuff I usually wait till October or so.
>>
Ok, I need some help because I am lost here. I have this bike:
http://media.gtbicycles.com/media/t/i/timberline_10.pdf

And I want to upgrade some of its shitty peripherals. Are these upgrades and especially the groupset, which is the one that I can't tell, compatible with my bike?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/gr/en/rockshox-30-silver-solo-air-suspension-forks-2017/rp-prod154232

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/gr/en/fulcrum-red-power-29-centre-lock-mtb-wheelset/rp-prod157059

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/gr/en/shimano-xt-m780-triple-drivetrain-groupset/rp-prod114930

Thanks in advance.
>>
>>1051822
G2Gfast & touring tend to conflict; the core of the (N. American) biker market has been G2Gfast ever since Lemond became famous. I recommend a classic steel road/sport-touring bike with a 650B wheel conversion, senpai

Also, when adding a rack to a frame without rack bosses, seatpost racks are your friend
>>
Using my first bike for casual riding. Looking at the cadent 3 by Raleigh. It has 8 speed and hydrolic brakes. It's blue and $420.
https://corp.raleighusa.com/cadent-106

Should I get it?
>>
>>1052522
>rack on a frame without bosses
>touring
i would strongly advise against op doing this, even seatpost racks are not going to be as good as a proper rack mounted on a frame meant to take a rack

get a touring specific bike if that's what you want. you can still go fast on one with some good tires if you want to
>>
>>1052291
i would recommend a specialized diverge then. definitely worth a look
>>
>>1052542
It's asking me to sign in, lel
>>
>>1051822

Are 135mm hub going to be around in 20 years?

I'm about to pull the trigger on a Soma Saga DC and I want it to be my main bike for a long time

I'm going to run it with v brakes for a while then switch to disc later. I just don't want to buy something that is already getting dated (no taper head tube, 135mm rear)

Surly is going "gnot boost" on the ogre. And everyone is going for fat tires and tapered head tubes

I don't want to be scouring eBay in 2037 for nos bullshit

Maybe I'll just stock up on spare parts
>>
>>1051870
Lol

2 woke
>>
>>1052580
It's difficult to predict what the world will look like in even 4 years with Trump in the white house
>>
When do you guys think Shimano will update the 105 groupset? What changes are you hoping for?
>>
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I'm looking into an entry level road-racing bike to take my casual-commuter self to the next level. my budget is around $1300.

My LBS has a deal on a MARES focus cyclocross bike, new for $1200.


Is this a bad Idea if I plan on primarily road racing? (I'm not opposed to cyclocross too but haven't looked into it at all)

I don't want to gimp myself on my purchase but I'm also curious if the differences between the two won't really mean much unless I was already a professional.


Alternatively I could just get this guy: https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bid/5993602619.html

any advice appreciated!
>>
>>1052632
Go for the CAAD10 - CX bikes are very similar to road racing bikes but designed for riding in a more upright position, so you'll have an easier time fitting yourself properly to a bike designed for the road.
>>
>>1052609
I think that since Dura Ace got an update late last year Ultegra is getting one this year and then maybe 105 will get an update too.
Otherwise the year after
>>
>>1051822
I see there are a ton of bike threads here, but I have a simple question.

I have a modern Trek carbon fiber bike, and it needs a decent cleaning. Specifically I want to wipe away the grease from the chain, and other components that gets all over places.
What is safe to use?

I normally go over with just a wet terry cotton towel, and I used Simple Green around oily areas, but it doesnt work well. Is non-chlorinated brake clean safe to use on CF? If I wipe off quickly, and dilute any leftovers with soapy water?

I got a bunch of chain grease around the crank, and the rear derailleur is dirty. Anytime I load my bike inside the car it leaves grease marks.

What is safe to clean with that gets the job done?
>>
I literally just bought a Specialized Crosstrail Elite. Tell me how badly I fucked up.
>>
>>1052684
you didn't fuck up, that's a nice looking ride
a bit expensive imo, but if you don't mind the price, its nice
>>
>>1052693
Despite being a self-described casual and novice, I realize part of what I paid for was a brand name that means little to nothing. It felt good to ride around the city and wasn't a huge price jump from the Sport model. Couldn't justify an extra additional $500 for a carbon frame given the type of bike it is.
>>
>>1052715

Resale value matters. If you take good care of it expect to knock a lot off the price when you sell it

This is why buying a respected brand name is a better idea than a budget no name bike, or building a custom vintage bike nobody will want
>>
>>1052763
Not everyone buys stuff with the intention of selling it on. Some people fully expect to keep stuff they buy until it breaks or is so out of date as to not be fit for the purpose any more.
>>
>>1052772

No shit retard
>>
>>1052715
What? I've had specialized bikes last me years. Frames are great as long as you ride as intended. My specialized cromoly frame just retired after 20 years.
>>
>>1052632
Another thing to consider is that if you commute all year long, a cx bike will be there to help you navigate rain, frost, branches, fallen leaves more comfortably than a road bike. It's why I changed from road tot cx for commuting. The speed difference is minimal
>>
What's a good bike app? I want something with GPS that will track distance and time. I dont mind paying a few bucks.
>>
>>1052832
For Android
>>
>>1052832
Everyone's on strava. It's free (with possibility of a paying premium account, but the free version has everything you need)
>>
>>1052834
Does the free version have annoying ads? Can I use spotify at the same time?
>>
>>1052835
No ads, and yes, I don't see why not.
>>
>>1052835
Zero ads. Yes, you can use spotify at the same time.

You start recording when you leave and put it in your pocket, then it tracks your GPS throughout your ride, you submit it afterwards and you can then analyze your rides.

There's a lot of pro athletes on it too. there's a social aspect to it so you can follow your friends or famous athletes and see where and when they ride

example: https://www.strava.com/activities/882808697
>>
>>1052837
>>1052838
OK I'm sold. Thanks lads. Looks legit.
>>
All city macho King minus wheels and crankset. $950. Buy?
>>
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https://www.amazon.com/Gravity-Suspension-Mountain-Shimano-Suntour/dp/B00GM1MM9I/?tag=mountainbi04c-20&th=1&psc=1

What does /n/ think of this? For casual trail use.
>>
Is this worth 45$? He says the bearings are bad
>>
>>1052949
if you can work on it yourself, then maybe
however, if you would have to take that to a shop to get the bearings replaced and do all the other work i'm sure it needs, then no, not worth
>>
>>1052928
If you really want a cheap mountain bike, then get a hardtail i.e. one without rear suspension. Rear suspension at this pricepoint is going to be shit. Bikesdirect is where that one is coming from, look on their website, they have plenty of cheap bikes.
>>
>>1052928
>full suspesion mtb
>for $300
>for "casual trail use"

I think you should run away screaming and get something with no shocks.
>>
>>1052928
that's going to be heavy, have absurd pedal bob, ride like shit, and will probably break horribly
so, pretty much the same as any other bso
>>
if lbs orders a bike and builds it for me, do I tip the shop guy?
>>
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Fat bikes:

My shop can get Apollo and Felt. I'm looking at the Felt DD30 here: http://www.feltbicycles.com/Canada/2016/Bikes/mountain/fat-bike/DD-30-17.aspx

and the Apollo Stout 20 here: http://www.apollobikes.com/bikes2017/fat-bike/stout-20

Pricing is about the same. Any reason to pick one over the other? I like 1x on my cross bike and I don't think I'd need the double for what I plan on using this for so I'm leaning towards the Apollo.
>>
>>1052993
>tip the shop guy
yeah, and if he says 'nice bike' or anything like that the only appropriate response is
>y-you t-too
>>
>>1052996
>double vs 1x on a fat bike
get the 1x one, fat bikes are pretty much only for crusing slow, you don't need all that much range in gearing
>>
>>1052993
Tipping in a bike shop is never required, but it's always appreciated since bike mechanics typically don't get paid very much for their work. Typically though, people only tip if the mechanic has gone out of their way to do something extra, or done some kind of small repair on the spot without charging for it.
>>
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>>1051822
>>1051822 (OP)
>Geometry Question!
Looking to buy a frame to complete my gravel/hardpack light tourer and have come across a good deal on a Charge Plug designed for fork with 43mm offset & axle to crown of 395mm

The fork I already have has a 50mm offset and 420mm axle to crown

Will I be able to use my fork on the new frame?
both have 1 1/8th steerer and all of the right fitments

< plug geometry chart if that helps
>>
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>>1053019
>>1053019
< most of the parts I already have, hung on the shitty frame I want to replace
>>
>>1053019
>>1053021
>Will I be able to use my fork on the new frame?
Yes - but it will give you twitchy handling characteristics. The bike will be rideable (especially with front panniers that tend to slow your steering a bit), but it won't be ideal. If you're hesitating on buying a fork, then there's really no harm in trying your current fork and seeing how you like the results, because you can always get a different fork later if necessary.
>>
>>1053019
Yes, the fork will fit.

There are three effects that fork will have:

1) Jack up the BB height by ~15mm, and therefor, move YOU up by the same amount. This will make the bike feel less stable/quicker to turn.

2) The taller fork will make the head tube angle slightly more slack. This will marginally slow down the steering by increasing trail, but...

3) The higher offset on the fork will decrease the trail, which will speed up the steering/make the bike twitchier. On the other hand, this will reduce wheel flop and make the bike handle better with a front load.

Ballparking it (and not knowing which size frame you're buying; they all have different headtube angles), you're going from 70-75mm of trail (high trail) to 60-65mm of trail, which is still pretty high. I don't think the change in headtube angle or trail will be enough to have a major effect on the bike's handling. But jacking the BB height up ~15mm will certainly make the frame feel less stable underneath you.

It'll be rideable. Like >>1053027 says, there's no harm in trying; you can always buy a new fork later.
>>
>>1052839
Only thing I'd note is that if you want to pre-map routes and get turn-by-turn nav, RideWithGPS is superior. If you just want to track your rides, Strava is perfect.
>>
>>1052919
Macho King is a damn nice 853 frame. $950 is a decent deal if those are the only parts it's missing.

Which generation? http://allcitycycles.com/blog/macho_kings_are_hitting_dealers
>>
>>1052919
>>1053037
This one?
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/bik/6018406874.html

Seems like a good deal to me, do it.
>>
What do I do. Is this bike ugly or not.
>>
>>1053104
It's the cadent 4. Its $480
>>
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I want to pick up a Raleigh DL-1 Tourist. Which one of these two is my best bet for one in decent shape?

https://houston.craigslist.org/bik/5996039337.html

https://houston.craigslist.org/bik/6007649235.html
>>
>>1053035
>>1053027
great explanations thanks!
>>
>>1052522

How about Kona Rove and the like? They any gud? Classic steel frames are probably hard to find in my neck of the woods

>>1052571

Diverge was actually the first bike I considered back when I bought my current bike. The small clearances made me look elsewhere though. My current CAADX has 35mm tires and if anything, I could go even wider, at least in winter.
>>
What's the best guide on buying cheap bikes? I'm new to cycling and I need a bike for college and for the occasional Sunday ride.
>>
>>1053462
the best guide is "90s Rigid MTB with slicks" by /n, author of the New York Times best seller "Old Ten Speed"
>>
Should I get a 2015 Specialized Secteur with sorashit for $600 or a Bianchi Nirone7 (not celeste) with Veloce/Xenon for $850?
Using it for commuting/long weekend rides with a view to do some light touring.
>>
>>1053564
>buying a bianchit that isnt le bianchit colourre

get the specialized
>>
>>1053462
i've been meaning to put a graphic together for ages but haven't gotten around to it yet

but what >>1053463
said is pretty good

>90s rigid mtb with slicks
old mountain bikes with obsolete frame geometry and no suspension make pretty good commuter conversions. they're very well made, have mtb components which tend to be more durable than roadbike components, they ride well and you can buy them for almost nothing
pros: tough, cheap, easy to work on, dope vaporwave paint schemes
cons: slow, heavy

>old ten speed
old road bikes with a 2x5 drivetrain. can dometimes be a bit uncomfortable and take a bit to get used to riding, as they usually have downtube shifters. decent commuters, can be pretty fun for road rides, look really nice if restored
pros: cheap, fast, light, cool
cons: some (especially french and italian) have odd sized parts which make them a pain to work on, less tough than a 90s rigid, usually can't take tires wider than 25mm
>>
>>1053650
>90's mtbs are slow and heavy

Not if you get a nice one

t. owner of a 1998 Stumpjumper ($60 invested)
>>
>>1053462
>>1053463
>>1053650
New as well. I'm looking for a cheap bike for recreation, short-distance errands, and possibly for the last couple of miles of my commute by train.

I have a 1995 22" GT Tequesta that I acquired from a relative. He was going to throw it out but I offered to take it for free. From what I know it's been outside for years and doesn't look like it's been maintained. There's some issues, brakes are weak and squeal badly, the gears don't work, I can't shift. It's also almost impossible to pedal without great effort and a loud clunking sound is generated with each pedal, I think the crank bearings are broken. The frame's in great shape though.

Now here's my question: is it worth fixing up and replacing parts on this bike or should I just get a new bike? I also have an old Next (model unknown) 20" MTB that is similarly broken that I can maybe use for parts. I've also thought of using an angle grinder to make my own slicks out of the tires instead of buying new as well.
>>
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>>1053666
wew I'm Satan

The bike is practically pic related, same paint job and everything, minus the handlebars.
>>
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In the market fort a shock absorbing seatpost.

I bouight a $30 supercycle POS just to see if it would impress me, it didn't do much, returned it.

I doin't mind spending maybe $100-150 but I'm not trying to get the best of the best, just comething functional.

I see there's a lot of different concepts out there, want to avoid single spring posts but what I need it for is city commuting, just want to take some of the load off my spine when I go over tracks or transitions.

Any tips ?
>>
>>1053666
that's a pretty sweet 90s rigid if it fits you
it'll probably need all new bearings, a new chain, possibly a whole new drivetrain, but 3x7 stuff is cheap as hell
you'll need to adjust the brakes and possibly replace the tires too
>>
>>1053666
>>1053667
I wouldn't sink any money into such a bike unless you'd already ridden it and found that the frame suited your needs exactly. For now I'd strip the frame, discard what is broken, and keep all the serviceable bits in your parts bin until the day comes when you need them for something else or you have everything you need to put the GT back into service with minimal investment.

As for shaving down the profile of tires, you should use a utility knife, not a grinder.
>>
>>1053667

90s GT bikes are fucking nice !

the components are probably all gone to shit.

I would ebay parts and build it up as a 1x10 with semi slicks , racekings or something.

I'm actually allways keeping a eye out for those frames.
>>
>>1053686

the specialized cg-r seems to be great.
it also has the next level looks.
>>
>>1053667
you may also consider stripping it and selling the frame
the old triple triangle frames can sell for ~100 in good shape
>>
>>1053697
>>1053698
>>1053699
>>1053702
Thanks for the suggestions, lads. I'm going to strip it and rebuild it, salvaging what I can. It'll be my first build so should be quite a learning experience. I'm thinking of keeping the 3x7 configuration if it's cheap, what's the benefit of going to 1x10? My riding is on flat terrain (Florida), paved surfaces, not looking to build a racing bike but one that would suit commuting and leisure rides.

I got some riding out of it before it broke down, was decently comfortable. The frame seems to suit me just fine, it's pretty light for a steel frame and I've taken a liking to it, though $100 for it sounds tempting.
>>
looking to buy a fixed gear for school in spring/summer
what is the best poorfag's choice,
6ku fixie or fuji's track classic ?
cost is about the same ~340 euros
>>
>>1053710
i'd recommend keeping 3x7 as well
1x10 is going to be more convenient to use and will be more like modern mountain bikes, but will cost way more

that old gt likely has a freewheel instead of a freehub, i have one similar to it and it has a freewheel. if you wanted to do something more modern with a 10 speed cassette you'd have to replace the rear hub with a freehub and rebuild the whole rear wheel. that definitely is not worth the trouble

its possible all you need is a new bottom bracket ($25, shimano still makes new square taper units), new wheel bearings (<$5), and a new chain ($10), and everything else can just be cleaned up some.

if you do need a new freewheel, that's like $20 for a cheap shimano 7 speed one, and a new square taper triple chainring is maybe $30 but you probably don't need to replace that
>>
>>1053732
Yeah, I'll just stick to the 3x7 to keep expenses down, and thanks for price quotes, I've been hoping to keep things under a few hundred dollars.
>>
>>1053721
Buy a late 20th century stiff mountaineering cycle
>>
I moved from the country to the city so I want ti put some more suitable tired in my commuter. the current tires are 26x1.5. is there anything besides the dimensions that I need to pay attention to when getting new tires?
>>
>>1053789
Them being slicks
>>
>>1053789
Also puncture protection, there's a shitload of sharp shit on the roads
>>
>>1053794
>>1053808
thanks.
so I can put any 26x1.5 tire on there and it will fit?
>>
>>1053908
Yes
>>
>>1053584
Thanks, anon. Just bought it.
>>
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What does the BBQ think of my bike? I'm sure its total shit compared to what most of you ride. But I just use it for short trips 5-10 miles and some mountain biking trails. I bought it for about $100 a few years ago and just put about another $100 for parts and bike tool set.
>>
>>1053968
old gary fisher mtb, pretty nice
might want to fix that saddle angle, that can't be comfortable
>>
I'm 6.26ft (191cm) and I was looking at frame sizes. For most of the brands I have to get a 62cm frame (xxl) but for the scott one a 58 (xl) seem to be enough according to charts. I don't understand the size difference, anyone know ?
>>
Hello I am considering buying a bike for commuting to work.

I don't really know what I should be looking out for. I've been looking at hybrid bikes though I am pretty sure 99% of the time I will be on roads.

Also in terms of pricing I'm at a loss to what sort of range I should be considering. I don't think I really want to spend more than £500 but even up to that point there is a lot of seemingly variable prices below £500.

For instance I'm looking at pic related and it's £356 and then I look at:

https://www.evanscycles.com/pinnacle-lithium-3-2017-hybrid-bike-EV275573

And it's £475 for a bike which (to my eyes) seems similar. What is that extra £125 getting me in the 2nd bike? I don't understand what I should be considering. Thanks.
>>
>>1053968

fix teh saddle and the brake lever, then get a front brake and we're cool
>>
How is 1x11 (or 10) compared to 3x7 and not using the front dérailleur?

I have a cheap roadbike, but I wonder if it's worth to convert it with a mtb groupset if I'm not planning to use the front derailleur.
I don't care about silly grams, I live in the Netherlands(flat as a pancake), will never plan to ride for much more than an hour and it's never going to be above 20 mph anyway.

The front derailleur is a microshit piece of crap but it's otherwise an ok bike.
>>
>>1053721

pre cursa, rum runner or kilo tt
>>
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qGq-2gY81os" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
>>
https://www.youtube.com/embed/qGq-2gY81os
>>
>>1054003

you'll run into trouble with the shifters.
the clamp diameter of mtb thumb shifters and the diameter of dropbars don't match up.

but in flat netherland a big 10 speed road cassette is more than enough.

I think 1x10 is the sweet spot for everyday riding.
and if you're good with ebay it's not that big of a investment.
>>
>>1053999
>bike for commuting
you are probably going to want either a more road oriented hybrid, a road bike, or something like a 90s rigid
you'll want full rigid, bike suspension isn't meant for use on a road, many entry level bikes will have really cheap shitty suspension on them and this should be avoided at all costs
make sure the bike has a place to mount a rack and fenders, fenders will make riding when the roads are wet much more nicer and a rack will be nice so you don't have to carry a backpack all the time
make sure you buy from a real brand, many cheap bikes from department stores and the like are so poorly made and assembled that they're dangerous
if your price range is < $400 then you should be buying used, there's almost nothing decent new in that price range, but you can get a nice used bike for cheap

if you want to buy new look into things like the kona dew or some of the low end treks. the main things to pay attention to are the quality of the frame and that it has decent driverain components. most of the difference in price you'll see from reputable brands is going to be in the level of the groupset and the quality and material of the frame. you should be looking for chromoly or aluminum, stay away from shitty hi-ten steel

if you want to save money look for 90s rigid mtbs on craigslist, they're cheap, tough and can handle anything
>>
I recently bought a vintage bike to see if I could get back into cycling after not owning one for 10 years and I'm ready to make a commitment to something more modern. Should I buy pic related or a cheaper, similar, aluminum bike? Is carbon fiber reliable in the long run and will a 6'5" rider fit on a 61cm bike of this type?
>>
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What do you think lads? They say it's feather light, and they took it to an expert! $55 for a slightly rusty bike frame is a great deal, right?

Did I mention it's FEATHER LIGHT?

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/6029710569.html
>>
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Did I fuck up??
>>
>>1054132
Yes, that's some awful decoration
>>
>>1054132
>drinks keystone light
>did i fuck up?
yes, badly
>>
>>1052772
What a bad post
>>
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>>1054132
>non drive side pic
>that rear brake cable
>fancy base bars good for only one hand position ever
>shitty pedals without foot retention on a quality FG/SS bike
>#fitness
>Keystone Light
Do your parents know that their son is a failure?

>>1054122
An expert said it's an excellent frame probably 54 or 56 cm... who are we to second guess an expert opinion? [/sarc]

>>1054040
At 6'5", 61cm is about the smallest frame you could be comfortable on, unless you've got long arms and a short torso in which case it would definitely be too small.

These days there's not a huge difference between carbon and aluminum in general. The main reason to go for carbon fiber is the ultimate weight savings, if that's important to you and you can afford it, there's no reason not to ride carbon.
>>
>>1054173
Yeah the bars kinda suck and the rear brake doesn't even work lol. I've put my clipless pedals on since I got it. Are flat bars actually nice to ride with or is that just a meme?
>>
is giant escape 3 for $340 a decent commute bike? (7 miles a day)
>>
schwalbe spicer any good? i can get them for a really good price. worth trying or should i just get marathons for a bit more?
>>
>>1054297
You can't go wrong with Marathons. Never even heard of Spicer before.
>>
>>1054132
get locking pedals
>>
>>1054254
Flat bars are a Particularly Awful meme. Get a Nitto drop bar or pursuit bar, senpai
>>
>>1053721
Best poorfag choice is to convert an old Raleigh Grand Prix frameset, friend. Just throw away the junky stock components
>>
>>1054325
>Get a Nitto drop bar or pursuit bar, senpai
Right, so he'll be that guy with both of his hands next to the stem and never actually use the drops
At least the bullhorn position is similar to the hoods, which is far more comfortable
>>
>>1051921
2 words: p clamps. Seriously, Google p clamps and see what turns up. You should be able to fit a sturdy rack securely.
>>
>>1052051
Wald Giant Delivery Basket?
>>
>>1054336
I'll probably go with drops since I basically have pursuit bars right now. I want to sell them because the guy said they were 900 new and get a Lighter wheelset
>>
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>>1054344
Get drops and some nice brake levers so you actually have a comfortable hood position
I suggest the TRP RRL SR
>>
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>>1054374
Wait, nevermind. I just saw the frame size. It's too small for me.
>>
>>1054271
If you want to buy new and you don't want to spend more money than that, that's about the best you can do. You could get something much better if you're willing to go used, but then you'll have to do some work on it and replace parts, so it depends how much time and effort you want to put into it.
>>
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>>1054132
Yes, anon. Yes you did.
>>
>>1054040
steel is real
80s bikes are best bikes
carbon is for freds
https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer
>>
>>1054382
This. If it doesn't have cottered cranks and 27" wheels, I don't want to even look at it.
>>
>>1054382
Ordered it. Calculator says it's a perfect fit, I'll know for sure next week!
>>
>>1054132
I like your bike. I'd go on an adventure with you anon
>Tfw anon's bike breaks as soon as you ride over anything but tarmac
>>
>>1054490
>tricking fixiefag into going on an adventure ride so he breaks his bike then leave him stranded
I like you anon, we can be friends
>>
$25 could this thing actually survive xc or trail use?
>>
>>1054530
No.
>>
>>1054530
it would make it to the trail. Thats about it

short answer - no
>>
>>1054530
if you want something that cheap, look for a full rigid, that thing will disintegrate on you completely
>>
>>1054535
>it would make it to the trail
no, it MIGHT make it to the trail
>>
>>1054531
>>1054535
>>1054536
while i'm inclined to agree with you all, I rode light xc on something very similar for a day and had no problems it was actually a decent ride.

if it failed, how dangerous would it be? like if something broke how likely would i be maimed? can anyone provide an example of how this would play out?
>>
>>1054561
and how different would it be from this?
>>
>>1054561
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3vI2bYhCrk
>>
>>1054563
that's better, its at least a hardtail, not a shitty fs
drivetrain on it looks rusted to fuck, but a new chain, some lube and a good cleaning would probably help quite a bit
it looks pretty small to me, but if it fits you then that's all that matters
check that the seals on the fork are good, if they're shot then don't buy it, as a new fork will cost more than the whole bike's worth

it'll ride light trails ok, just don't expect that much from it
>>
anyone know a good dual wielding water bottle holder for your saddle?
>>
>>1054530
My first mountain bike ride was on a similar bike. It lasted one ride. Nothing like the adrenaline rush of imminent death at every corner and/or drop
>>
A touring bicycle that can get a 105kg/2meter tall man across 5500km?

does such thing exist?
>>
>>1054676
Any decent bike could manage that.
>>
>>1054530
Not with that meme frame
>>
What's a good relatively inexpensive bike for exercise and commuting that will last me a while?

Planning on doing cardio outside because the treadmill is boring. Might travel around a bit too since no car.
>>
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>>1051822
Looking to buy my first MTB. Im a complete beginner and a decent sized guy 6'2 200lbs. I get great deals on diamondbacks so im probably going to stick to them. not sure if I should get a 29er or not. I just want a good beginner bike that i can learn on, but wont outgrow quickly. Im not sure which model/type of MTB's I should be looking at ie(xc, all mountains, downhill bikes). any suggestions?
>>
Unless you have a big budget, you're looking at a basic hardtail.

Make sure the thing fits you and has good suspension in that order of priority. Then brakes, and drivetrain and the rest.

Good suspension means avoid any cheap suntour that starts with the letter X unless you really can't afford any better.
>>
Hey I was looking for the meme 90's rigid mtb for commuting during the winter and starting to get into riding the trails during the summer. Would this be a decent bike for this? It seems like this is the only bike that would fit me in my area. Also in the posting there is a small dent in the upper tube would this be any danger/liability?

https://stcloud.craigslist.org/bik/6034956113.html
>>
>getting my new fx 3 today
>my buyers remorse for not getting a trek fx 4 w/ tiagra components

did i fuck up bad?
>>
>>1054963
Why do you need tiagra on a fitness bike?
>>
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>>1054967
>>
>>1054961
yeah, that looks like a decent ride. old gt frames are pretty good
it is a bit overpriced imo but not bad
looks like the drivetrain could use some work, but hard to tell how much from the picture
>dent in the top tube
a little dent on a chromoly frame isn't a big deal, if it were alu it would matter more, but that won't snap on you or anything
>>
>>1055004
>https://stcloud.craigslist.org/bik/6034956113.html
But it says it's an alu frame.
>>
Whats the verdict on citizen bikes?
>>
I can get a Merida Reacto 4000 for relatively cheap. How good is the brand, the carbon frame (my first) and the bike?
>>
MTB COMMENCAL META HT AM RACE 27,5" -> € 1.539,90
VS
MTB COMMENCAL META HT AM ESSENTIAL RS 27,5" -> € 1.333,90
VS
MTB KONA HONZO AL 29" -> € 1.128,90

all new and 2016 version
>>
>>1055120
i have a Merida Reacto 500, and im loving it.
I have had no problems with it so far, but then again its still very new (1500km)
Its a bit on the heavy side, but thats what you get when you go Aero
>>
is this too rusty? I can buy it for 10 bucks

i'd like to convert into fixie just for fun
>>
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>>1055256
i'm fucking retarded and didn't upload the picture
>>
>>1055257
Looks like surface rust. WD40 and a brash brush . Even for 10, its worth a shot! i'd buy it
>>
http://rate-driver.co.uk/SG07CXL
>>
>>1055257
chromoly doesn't rust all the way through usually, so that frame is probably fine
check it carefully for cracks on the welds though and check for rust near the bb since water can pool down there if it gets trapped in the tubes
looks like the drivetrani is probably pretty fucky, and that thing definitely needs new cables and probably all new bearings
>worth it for $10
yeah, i'd probably buy it for that
>convert to fixed
why though? 10 speeds are pretty decent bikes and downtube friction shifters are indestructable
>>
The fatbike meme is going to disappear pretty soon, isn't it?
>>
>>1055279
>>1055272
thanks boys, i'll contact the dude now, hopefully I'll grab it tomorrow

I want to convert it to fixed because I already have an 11 speed CX bike and a 8 speed road/beater and I want to try something new

can't go wrong for 10 bucks...
>>
>>1055292
it shouldn't take too much work to replace the rear hub, and it should be possible to cold set the rear triangle to make it narrow if you want to do it all fancy like
>>
>>1055310
I'm still undecided on the fixie conversion, what is really concerning me though is the rust, how should I go about that? I've done a fair bit of restoration and repairs on bikes before but it's always been Al, i've never had to deal with rust like this
>>
is there a sticky/faq/pastebin/etc for newfags and bikes?

i'm losing weight and i haven't ridden a bike since i was a teenager, would really like to get back into it. want to ride like 70% road 30% offroad if that makes any sense, like a dual sport motorcycle but with pedals.
>>
>>1055323
nope, just post budget, location, goals and stats in this thread and we'll help you

I'm down like 10ish kg in 3 months from riding 20mi a day yo work lmao
>>
>>1055390

5'8"
275
USA - flat land, no mountains
budget - under $350
type - hybrid/comfort/exercise

i've found a lot of bikes online but i'm not sure if my local shop frowns upon that sort of thing i.e. bringing them a box and paying them to put it together/true wheels etc, but i really don't want to pay local shop markup with limited selection.

something like this for example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vilano-Diverse-1-0-Performance-Hybrid-Bike-21-Speed-Shimano-Road-Bike-700c-/182418752127?var=&hash=item2a7901427f:m:muI5QZRj0msrBMe134FEGeg
>>
>>1055414
buy a used bike from a big brand, and have a LBS give it a full service, as cheaply made bikes aren't that strong, and you'll spend more repairing and replacing parts than what the bike was worth.

check craigslist, gumtree, ebay, or if bike shops have ex-display models, or even see if CRC has some bikes discounted without stupid shipping to the US.
>>
>>1055390
10kg in 3 months isn't losing weight, it's starvation.
>>
>>1055414
Used bike is a good idea, and i also advise you set aside money for a 36-spoke wheel build.

>>1055473
depends on one's starting point, m9
>>
>>1055414
Since you're talking about a box, I assume you're looking at new bikes. Stop that right now, there's nothing but pain and suffering ahead of you with a new bike in your budget.
Buy used, or skip a couple meals till you can afford something decent.
>>
>>1055493

so if i go down to the bike shop and get a 350-400 dollar bike i won't be happy with it?
>>
>>1055497
I'm a diff anon but I agree 100%. Buy used with that budget
>>
>>1055497
For a while maybe
>>
>>1055497
Probably not.
Certainly not, if you've ridden a used 400 dollar bike before.
>>
>>1055473
i literally eat as much as i want, still get pissed drunk and high every weekend, the only thing that changed is that my commute is now 20mi instead of 12

today I weight around 91kg and i'm 6'1", i started at around 100-105kg (i don't have a scale at home, i weight myself some fridays after having a meeting with guys from another office of my company, they have a scale in there)

people tell me i look like i lost weight but i still see myself as a fat fuck and i still don't care, i do eat healthy though (as always really), no fast food, no sugary shit, i like cooking and shit

tldr i'm anything but starving lol

>>1055414
for that budget buy used mang, you will only get shit bikes for 350 new
>>
>>1055414
>but i'm not sure if my local shop frowns upon that sort of thing i.e. bringing them a box and paying them to put it together/true wheels etc

They usually offer that as a service. The local shop I'm bringing my new-old bike to is charging $80 for an assembly+tuneup.

But I do agree with everyone else. Buy used. 90s rigid MTB might be a meme, but that seems to be exactly what you're looking for right now.
>>
>>1055521
90s MTB is a ten year old meme.
So shouldn't we recommend 00's MTBs now?
>>
>>1055528
Those are still expensive, aren't they? Isn't part of the reason 90s models are recommended is because they're still sturdy and solid, while having obsolete geometry so they aren't in as much demand?
>>
>>1055528
>00's mtbs
most of them are not rigid though, they're mostly hardtails
one of the reasons 90s rigids are still good is because suspension doesn't last well
the seals in a fork start to go out eventually, and its hard to find replacement parts once the fosk is no longer being made
there's pretty much nothing to go wrong on a 90s rigid
>>
>>1055558
Something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Clean-Classic-Mongoose-IBOC-Team-series-17-5-/302247392702
>>
>>1055521
I brought everything in boxes to my lbs and assembly was $320. This was not a bike in a box though and they had to order shock bushings and bleed brakes/dropper.
>>
>>1055694
>bike in separate boxes and maybe not all there
>have to do suspension work on top of assembly

$320 is a bit expensive, but I don't think it's that outrageously so.
>>
>>1055716
I thought it was a bit high but reasonable. I'm sure they added the "fuck you for not buying a bike from us" tax.
>>
>>1055721
Nah, fucking around with a suspension in bike assembly probably accounted for all of that easy.
>>
>>1055728
They didn't have to fuck with suspension internals-only bushings to fit the frame. It was all new. I think bleeding hydraulics is prob a bitch though. Also the wheels were pre-built.
>>
>>1055694
that's what you get for not learning how to read a manual, they have pissing assembly instructions in the bastard thing.
>>
I need a 58 cm frame but they only have 56 at store. They told me to come and try them, as they can fit me anyway. Should I go or will I waste time ?
>>
>>1055743
2cm isn't much of a difference, you can get a good fit on frames within 2-4 cm away from your ideal frame size by adjusting the stem and saddle positioning
some people actually prefer slightly undersized frames because they're lighter and stiffer than larger frames
>>
>>1055731

it can't be any harder than bleeding brakes on a motorcycle, which is as easy as turning a wrench and squeezing the brake lever while occasionally adding some fluid to the reservoir.
>>
>>1051870
Delicious pasta.
>>
>>1051822
>Bike of choice is CX because I'm afraid other more off roady/touring ones would be slow turds on asphalt.

A CX bike actually suffers a bit at high speed compared to, say, a light touring bike, due to a usually very high BB.
>>
>>1052580
Bike standards are deader than dead. There is a new standard every six months for BB or rear spacing. There is absolutely no way to be sure something will last.
>>
>>1052609
I want a gravel bike dedicated crankset with a BCD low enough for 46-30 chainrings. FSA already made one but it's FSA.
>>
>>1053732
Rule of thumb:

In old bikes, if swapping chain, check status of whole transmission (cassette/freewheel, chainrings). A badly used freewheel and chainring can destroy (i.e. damage to the point of breaking) a new chain.
>>
>>1054132
Yes, and badly.

A track bike (which is what you've got there), needs clipless pedals, and maybe triathlon bars (for more hand positions on the road).

I'm also guessing that you've made it singlespeed and not fixed (like a real track bike).

IDK what you want to do with it, but if you fucked up so badly with the pedals, I'd really want to check the rest of the bike, and see if it's not going to catastrofically break on me while riding.

As an advice, check the rear brake cable. It looks really bad like that, and it seems to be too short as well.
>>
>>1054967
Helps with ED
>>
>>1052356
A lot of Chinese garbon has the option for BSA threaded
>>
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>>1054344
>the guy said they were 900 new
>>
>>1053968
looks like a keeper if you wanna get it back into proper working order. i mean i would.
>>
what are the disadvantages of swapping my mtb tires for some slick ones? will the ride be less comfy? will i feel bumps more? will it affect grip on roads eg. when breaking hard?
>>
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>>1052356
Bianchi Intenso
>>
How's a cyclocross bike for commuting and recreational riding through the Netherlands?

Is it like a rigid mtb, but with drop bars?
>>
>>1056030
Just get a criterium bike you fucking bum.
>>
>>1055982
Offroad grip drops. On road performance will improve in every axis.
>>
>>1056030
cyclocross bikes make pretty good commuters, they're reasonably quick and can handle gravel and bad roads easily
>>
>>1055982
this: >>1056034
also, your cornering on pavement will be much much better with slicks
knobbies make cornering on pavement kinda rough
>>
>>1055982
>accelerate quicker
>less power needed for a given speed
>less resistance/ rolls farther
>smoother ride on hard surfaces at least
>better grip in all weathers on hard surfaces


if you don't want to go full slick(kojak/thickslick) you could go semi-slick(tattoo/big apple/big ben/marathon), or a very fast rolling XC tyre(race king/speed king/thunder burt/furious fred)
>>
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I'm looking for a new bike for getting around the city fast.
I found a Francesco Moser 14 gears bike with most components from Shimano for 299EUR.
I do not know too much about bikes so I would be very helpful if you guys could help me out.
>>
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>>1056197
*very grateful ofc
>>
>>1056030
I commute on a cx bike through the Finnish fall, winter, and spring. And on rainy summer days to not get my road bike dirty. The only problems occur during spring when the snow that's been packed on the roads starts melting. But the only fix for that would be the fattest fatbike you can find.

If you're commuting mostly on paved path I'd recommend swapping to road tyres. You can always change back to something wider if you want to go hit some gravel.
>>
>>1056197
looks like a decent ride, old steel frames are pretty sturdy and ride well
check that the tires are in good shape and that the wheels are true and it should be decent
i'm a burger, so i have no idea how much 299eur is in freedom money, but i'd probably pay around $150-200 for that
>>
>>1056205
It's around 310 freedom dollaroos.
Seems to be in mint condition, saddle and tires new and all componnents rom shimano.
Bad deal?
I'm someone who has never repaired a bike before, so most really good deals that just need a bit fixing are out of question for me.
>>
>>1056197
Is that a 650C front wheel?
>>
>>1056218
>$310
that seems like a tiny bit much
however, it may still be worth it if it really is in pristine condition
f.moser frames are really well respected, and that looks like its pretty high end
if it comes with that frame pump, that's an added bonus as a good frame pump is like $80 on its own
if you have the money to spend and the bike fits you well then its not a bad deal
its going to be a pretty good riding bike
doesn't look like it has rack mounts, so if you wanted a rack you'd have to make do with one of the clamp on ones that aren't as sturdy, but that's not too big a deal

>never repaired a bike before
it is always a good idea to learn how to do basic maintence tasks on your bike, as going to a bike shop every time you need a tube changed or a bearing repacked gets expensive fast
bicycle maintence really isn't all that hard, and doesn't require that many tools

check out sheldonbrown.com and rj the bike guy on youtube for anything you need to know about maintence

you absolutely need to know how to change a tube, lube the chain, measure chain wear and replace the chain if its needed
it wouldn't hurt to know how to repack bearings either
>>
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>>1056223
you tell me
>>
>>1056227
Thanks a lot for this extensive and helpful answer. You helped me a lot.
I'm not used to this from a 4chan board.
>>
>>1056230
np man
>not used to this from a 4chan board
/n/ is usually pretty chill, we just want to get more people on bikes
>>
>>1056232
>/n/ is usually pretty chill, we just want to get more people on bikes
I am not sure if this agenda is sinister enough to even be on 4 chan
>>
>>1056235
the world is controlled via the petrodollar and the flow of oil
people are trapped into a lifetime of debt based slavery by our economy
every year the average commute takes longer
people dedicate more and more of their income paying for transportation
people dedicate more and more of their lives just to getting to work
fat, heart disease and diabetes have replaced exercise and self improvement
road networks expand on and on pushing people further apart
cities are being strangled by their highways, suffocated by their parking lots
culture, community, society all disappear under pavement for the convenience of a car

we are slaves to our transportation
bicycles are a means to break free
>>
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>>1056190
which ones would you recommend?
>>
>>1056247
no this is more like it!
>>
New to cycling and moving to Edmonton from Texas for university soon
What do I need to look for in a bike to make sure that it lasts after frequent use in/on snow/icy sidewalks, and runs decently smoothly over them
>>
>>1056251
Panaracer master race desu wa yo
>>
So it occurs to me I have enough meme miles to get a Polar V650 for free. It comes with the H7 HRM strap.

Is it worth the 3000 miles? I don't see much else offered of any use to me.
>>
>>1056251
The marathons are really tough. I ran over a roofing staple with them on my commuter and didn't notice until I put my bike away that night.
However, at least on my 25mmx700 marathons, the wire bead is insanely tight. Which means that if you do get a flat on them it's gonna take some serious muscle power to get the tire on and off your wheel.
>>
>>1056312
Either you clean it meticulously after each ride, or you just buy a cheap beater.

And consider winter tires with spikes if you do the majority of your riding on snow/ice.
>>
>>1056227
I think that the geometry is too tight for any kind of rack. That bike was meant to go fast. $310 would be more than fair for it in my neck of the woods. Vintage high quality Italian steel frame with quality pantographed fork, Shimano 600, no rust, new wheels, tires, saddle, frame pump...I think that would fetch at least $400 if it were sold around here.

I really envy Europeans for having lots of nice old bikes just lying around all over the place.
>>
Any cons to buying a Hanseatic road bike made in '88? German quality for 150€. I will use it to bike to work 40km in total. I don't want to get into the "bike scene" I just need a bike so I can save money on gas and loose some weight.
>>
>>1056365
Got any pictures?
>>
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>>1056366
>>
>>1056365
It's a cheap piece of shit that's not worth 150 eur. Germans never made good bicycles. German engineering applies to things with actual engines and shit. German made doesn't mean good engineering. If it's not an industry Germany was known for, it's probably not that good. When it comes to bicycles, nothing at all remarkable about them.

Literally only buy that if you're a skinhead aryan neonazi with a fetish for German things.
>>
>>1056369
Thank you for your honesty Anon. I always appreciate advice on a subject I know nothing about. Can you generalize and say that French/Italian bikes are good or does it depend on the manufacturer?
>>
>>1056368
That's a pretty terrible bike
>>
>>1056328
Panaracers are a bit shit when it comes to puncture protection tho.
>>
>>1056342
From what I've heard about the V650 it's a good piece of hardware. And Polar's HRM straps have usually been pretty good. The only downside is that the V650 is Bluetooth only and that will limit your choice of sensors a bit. However it's not like you're restricted to only sensors provided by Polar.
>>
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>>1056369
>implying that /n/ is not pic related
>>
>>1056355
Nigga, I had 37c marathon pluses on my old bike and they were IMPOSSIBLE to fit in.
Good thing they are also indestructible because otherwise I'd kill someone already. Over 8000 km with not even half a flat and didn't even look like they've been ridden much.
>>
>>1056235
biking is fun, anon

it's also healthy and a stupidly easy way to effortlessly exercise if you have enough water
>>
>>1056251
Marathons but they are a bitch to get on, but you won't need to remove them for a few years so it's worth the fight.
>>
got my first bike yesterday and the seat is like anal torture device on my fat ass.

good comfy seat for babby's first bike rides?
>>
>>1056376
Fixie Hitlers
>>
>>1056386
As with anything that's too stiff and tight to fit, lube helps.
>>
>>1056416
This may be counter-intuitive, but lower your handlebars for a more sporty seat position. Only 1/3 of your weight should be on the saddle, 1/3 on the handlebars, 1/3 on the pedals.
>>
>>1054530
Whoa lad! It seems someone stole a part of your bike. I guess it was the infamous Framesaw gang.
>>
>>1056416
You should first concern yourself with having your bike properly fitted. An "uncomfortable saddle" is often just a saddle in the wrong position/angle
>>
>>1054561
Are you asking legit questions or are you just waiting for one anon to say "guess it can be OK" so you can rationalize throwing $25 literally into the trash?
Those bikes are OK for poor people's kids to ride on a sidewalk, but don't look at a curb the wrong way while you sit on it.

When (not if) the fork or suspension fails, you'll eat the handlebars and maybe have bike parts sticking out from your body in various places.
>>
>>1056370
High end French and German bikes are top notch. But they also mass produced awful shit, and French and Italian QC is not great. They also sometimes use proprietary parts. There's really no reason to judge a bike based on nationality.
>>
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>>1056500
Except if it's Swiss.
>>
Is this a good deal?
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/6039415201.html
>>
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Hey /n/, the hand-me-down I got from my bro finally kicked the bucket, so I'm in the market for a replacement. Pic related isn't mine, but close enough.
I used it mostly for exercise and errands so nothing too advanced would be appreciated.

Budget: $800 AU
Size: 5'10
Location: Straya' / Mostly flat dirt trails.
Type: Last one was an MTB, but I could settle for a hybrid or trail.

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-north-narrabeen-sydney/mountain+bike/k0l3004001r20?

http://www.avantiplus.com.au/

Here are the local listings, and local distributor. Cheers.
>>
>>1056610
Holy shit, Great White is selling his zebrabike?!
>>
>>1056622
go look round an LBS to gauge an idea of what you want or to try a bike out.
>>
>>1056503
Those fenders are horribly installed.
>>
>>1056610
Big ring is shark-toothed. You may have to replace it, or the entire drivetrain if you're unlucky.
>>
>>1056670
They're installed to give maximum clearance for mud, except at the front of the rear wheel, where they need to come closer to the tire to give room for the (likely standardized) storage box.
>>
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Any advise on what kind of bike I should buy?

Urban
I'm heavy (120kg)
There's winter/summer, I mainly walk to work / daily needs so it'd probably be my main means of transportation for foreseeable future.
I've previously used cheap bikes and had to maintain them quite a lot (roughly 250-400km) so I'd hope to get advise on something which doesn't require as much work.
>>
>>1056728
rigid MTB, with fat slicks 2.3inch, at least 32 spokes per wheel.

for ease of maintenance, at least 1x9/10, single speed, or IGH and belt drive.

also shimano hydro discs as they need bleeding like once a year,
>>
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>>1056729
I have no idea what those words or numbers mean
>>
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>>1056731
like this but not as expensive (this bike is £3000) and with different tyres.
>>
>>1056733
Man I have no idea where to start looking for, you think I'd be asking for advise in 4chan if I knew? As long it's from Europe I'm good to buy it I think. But yeah 3k pounds for a bike is too much for me, I'm student/doing part time jobs so I can't afford something like that.
>>
>>1056734
easiest thing is to look for a used recentish mountain bike and swap the tyres.

but as you said you're in europe, this could be worth a look if you can afford it
https://www.canyon.com/urban/commuter/commuter-3.html
>>
>>1056610
>>1056661
>great white selling his zebrabike
>anon ends up buying it
It's pottery
>>
>>1056713
Doesn't look sharktooth'd to me, how can you even tell from such low res pictures?
>>
>>1056734
you're such a stereotype
>fat
>wants something that requires little effort to maintain
>literally wiling to do 0 research by yourself

pure laziness is why you're fat i guess
>>
Hey guys, looking to get my first decent bike for commuting to work, its a long ride but I want to avoid spending all my money on a new car and insurance (young guy + accident = retarded rates)
6'0"
210 lbs
Riding on citystreets and gravel roads in canada
40km a day
Budget under $1000 (if thats possible)
Thanks in advance bros, really appreciate it.
>>
>>1057001
>210lbs
>40km a day
you're going to need to ease into it a bit and get into slightly better shape or you're going to be pretty sore
20km each way isn't too bad though, almost anyone can work up to that within a week or so

>$1000
plenty of good bikes for commuting can be had for less than that new
and you can get decent commuters for ~ $150 used if you look around
the advantage of buying new is going to be all up to date components, and if you buy through a shop you'll probably get a free basic fit and maybe a bit of free service
buying used you can get very very good deals on bikes, but you need to have some knowledge of what you're looking for and how to do basic work on a bike
either way, you need to learn basic bike maintenance, but buying used may require a bit more work up front
a well cared for bike will last pretty much forever though, so its worth knowing how to work on your bike

>city streets and gravel roads
I'm guessing the city streets aren't exactly great, and gravel can be rough, so you want something fairly sturdy
in general, you'll want something with semi-slick, reasonably wide tires
if you go with a road bike with very skinny tires you may not have the best time
your best bet is going to be either a rigid mtb, an entry level hybrid or something like a cyclocross bike

>90s rigid mtb
a bit of a meme here, but for good reason
late 80s to mid 90s mtbs with rigid forks are usually easy to find used for pretty cheap
because they're meant for mtb use they're tough
later mtbs aren't great for use on the road because bike suspension doesn't really work there and is heavy
90s rigids are pretty good on a road and can still handle gravel and dirt
cost will be $50-200 and will require some work

cont.
>>
>>1057001
>>1057004
>entry level hybrid
usually have low level road components and 700c wheels but flat bars
will be slightly lighter and a bit quicker than a 90s rigid, but not as tough
most bike shops have a decent selection
stuff like the kona dew ($400-ish) or the trek fx ($700-ish) is decent

>cyclocross bike or road bike with wider tires slapped on
if putting wider tires on a road bike make sure to check for clearance first
will be quick, and still decent on gravel and shitty bits of road
kona jake would work pretty well, but is expensive $1000-ish
pretty much anything in this category is going to be fairly expensive

overall, i would probably recommend a 90s rigid if you find one used for cheap that's already had slicks, a rack, and fenders thrown on it
>>
>>1057001
>>1057005
fuck that was a long reply
don't do drugs kids
>>
>>1057006
>>1057005
>>1057004
Really appreciate the quick and informative reply, saving to reference as i further research. The middle of the road option with the hybrid bike is what sounds immediately appealing, but more research is in order.
Ill have a couple months to work up to doing the commute since I don't have to go to the further location yet, so hopefully i can complete the ride with relative ease once I need to.
Glad I came here for some help, seems like a pretty nice community.
>>
>>1057004
Instead of a 90s rigid, you could also get a modern rigid.

The cyclocross
>>
sup /n/, I'm looking for a decent winter bike for the UK. Basically I'm thinking steel/alu frame, 25mm tires at least, mudguards, cheaper wheels etc. I'm going to buy secondhand on ebay/gumtree, probably a budget of around £200-£400. Does this sound reasonable? What sort of groupset should I be looking at? Claris/Tiagra/105?
>>
>>1057087
>200-400 pounds

You could also get one new
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-500-se-road-bike-id_8306187.html

Btwin makes great bikes for the price and 280 pounds is a tremendous deal.
The microshift is probably on par with a new claris.

It should fit 25mm tires.

If you buy 2nd hand get at least a Tiagra.
>>
https://www.leboncoin.fr/velos/1109170686.htm?ca=12_s

What do you guys think? SHould I try it?
>>
Hello /n/, I'm planning on buying this bike for 75$, but the owner says it's been sitting for a while. Any idea what repairs it might need? I asked and he said he had no idea.
>>
>>1057202
>90s rigid mtb with slicks
nice choice, looks like a pretty decent deal, and should be a good, reliable bike once cleaned up a bit

>sitting for a while
a couple things are going to need some attention, but hopefully nothing major
that should clean up nicely

>tires and tubes
the tubes are almost certainly flat, so bring a pump with you
the tubes may or may not still be good, the best way to tell is just to pump them up and see if they'll hold pressure for a couple days
the tires are probably still fine, but you should check them over because sometimes old rubber can start to crack very badly
small cracks in the tires are ok, but if there are any long tears in the sidewalls or the tires bulge when you pump them up then you'll need to replace those
getting some 26"x1.5" semi-slicks isn't too expensive, but definitely check if the ones on there are still good and maybe haggle down a bit if they aren't

>drivetrain
i can tell even from that shitty picture that the drivetrain is a bit fucked
the chain is definitely going to have to be replaced, once they're rusty like that there's no point trying to clean and lube them
that looks like a 3x7 drivetrain to me, i'd probably get put kmc 8.93 on it for like $10
check and make sure that the cogs on the freewheel are in ok shape, it'll probably need to be cleaned
also make sure the chainrings aren't sharktoothed

>bearings
you'll probably want to repack all bearings on it, but some of them can wait if they turn ok-ish
do the wheel bearings first, those are the most important
it is pretty easy to repack a bearing, check rj the bike guy on youtube for instructions
you'll probably want to repack the bearings in the crankset as well, but that can wait if it still turns smoothly

>cables
check the cables, they may or may not be in good shape depending on age
if they still move, leave them, replacing cables is more work than its worth unless they're really sticky imo
>>
>>1057202
>>1057220
>grips and handle bars
it looks like when they put those barends on they didn't put the little cap back over the end of the handle bars
you can replace that for like $2 and it helps with safety and all so its probably worth it
you may also want to change the angle of those bar ends, they're more useful lower down
the grips may require some fucking with for comfort

>cleaning
use soapy water and a rag and wipe the frame down
also use a stiff brush to clean the tires and wheels
i'm kinda ocd about keeping stuff clean though, so this may be overkill

>lube
you probably want to put a couple drops of chain lube into the ends of the pedals to keep them turning nicely
you may also want to take the pedals apart and clean and repack the bearings in there
also, put a couple drops of lube on the pivot inside the break levers to keep that from squeaking
you can also turn the bike sideways and drip lube into the freewheel mechanism (assuming it is old enough to have a freewheel not a cassette) to keep that turning smoothly
>>
>>1052684
>>1052715
>crosstrail
>riding around the city
>not getting the Sirrus Elite instead

why
>>
>>1054132
Do you support LGBT rights?
>>
https://newyork.craigslist.org/que/bik/6042030420.html

How is this bike? Looking for my first road bike to take on weekend rides and a short commute to work in NYC.

bikebluebook says its priced way more than it should be, and idk if the condition is even that great.
>>
>>1057352
that's a good bike but probably pretty overpriced
no drive side photo which is concerning, probably means the drive train isn't in good shape
i don' tknow how overpriced stuff in new york is though, if everything else costs that much then it may be fine
>>
>>1057380
yeah im gonna ask for a picture of the drive train and post it here soon. This is my first bike since having a mountain bike all through college that i just took to class, so i have no idea what i would be looking at unless there was literal rust.
>>
>>1057005
>stuff like the kona dew ($400-ish)

There's kona dew 2016 for 380€ and kona dew plus 2016 for 570€, which would be better buy?
>>
>>1057446
entirely up to you
either will get you to and from work reliably and should be decent to ride
its a bike to get you on the road, so might prefer the more basic one
better components for ~ $200 more won't make a very big difference
spending that $200 on a rack, fenders, a quality pannier and a comfortable saddle will be huge
comfort while commuting is largely the saddle, and having everything in panniers, no backpack

eventually you may get into cycling more just for the fun of it, or want to optimize your commuting setup and want a nicer, faster bike
however, the most important thing at first is to just get riding, and even though its nothing fancy the kona dew should work nicely for you
>>
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sup /n/,
I need you input for today.
I want to buy a decent roadbike and I saw an offer for this Rotwild RSR 1.0 from 2010 on ebay:
Full Ultegra, as far as I can see and wheels are DT SWISS RR1850 bladed Aerospokes / DT SWISS RR1400-Mon Chasseral.
Supposedly only 7.2kg and 3000€ original. He rode it for ~600km and wants 950€
Will look at it today but I have some questions beforehand:

Is 950€ a fair price for a 2010 bike with that specs and that mileage and how far down could I go with my offer?

Is Ultegra from 2010 lacking in any way (brakes for example) or should I buy a new Canyon whatnot for similar price with new 105? I also saw an offer for a new, light cannondale with Ultegra for 1500€.

or get something new with disc brakes and tiagra (I like reliable braking and new tiara is good, I heard)?

Thanks in advance!
>>
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Reposting because I had in wrong thread.

https://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/road-bikes/cannondale/nsw/balgowlah/cannondale-dura-ace-system-six-56cm-large/102943586

I'm a noob looking to get into cycling, 6'2 95 kg, (yes I'm fat that's the idea)

this seems absurdly cheap to me, carbon wheels, carbon front triangle.

Would the L be fine or should I get an XL for my fat arse.
>>
>>1057800
>would the l be fine or get an xl
frame size is only about your height and the length of your legs, fatness has nothing to do with it
>6'2
you're going to want a 58 cm frame or a 60 cm frame probably

>fairly agressive road bike
>carbon wheels carbon front triangle
>95kg
you may want to start off with something more upright and more solid until you lose a bit of weight
that'll hold you, but it'll be more squirrely under your weight
you may want a chromoly frame and high spoke count alloy wheels
also, you have to be fairly flexible to ride a bike with geo like that and be able to make use of the drops
you may be better off with flat bars, at least at first
>>
what kind of shit can i buy to support my lbs? besides a bike obviously. seems like prices are uniform online and lbs. i don't know how they survive.
>>
>>1057821
oops I posted in the wrong thread again.

>>1057947

what about this?

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/woodrising/bicycles/fuji-team-united-bike/1139783467
>>
I've been riding my first, fully rigid 90s mtb for close to 2 years now. I've homed my skills, took it down shit I shouldn't have and have rattled my brain. It's been a great bike and still love it, but I'm ready to make the next step to a entry/mid level hard tail with a suspension fork. I'd like some recommendations for any bike that have these qualities :

27.5 wheels
Disc brakes
1x drive train (2x will be ok, if need be)
Reputable brand
Warranty
>>
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>>1058103
Pic is my bike, which is posted in pybt
>>
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Hello friends. I'm looking to purchase a bike as my mental health has gone to hell and I attribute most of that to a lack of physical activity. Please baby me.

6'1"
140lbs
live in Toronto
hoping to get in approximately 10-20km, daily, over the next few months.

Budget is approximately $500-$600. Will mostly be sticking to city streets. What the heck should I be looking for?
>>
Few years ago, I bought a well maintained 26" Klein for $50 on craigslist. Still runs like a top. Not my pics but same bike: http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/help-me-identify-this-90s-klein-and-whats-it-worth
>>
What should I look out for when buying a mountain bike on craigslist?
Just got a road bike I'm pretty happy with but I want something to take on trails and stuff.




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