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File: 1498013417326.jpg (224 KB, 960x960)
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last thread: >>1086471

Resources:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
http://sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer
>>
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>>1088991
>fork is bent beyond repair
>bike shop replaces fork with another one that isn't exactly the same, but they assure me it will be ok
>brake caliper doesn't quite reach to the rim now, so they replace it with a new one
>now my quick release doesn't fit in the dropouts quite right
>Now I have to deflate my tire just to get the wheel out because no cable release
What do I do now?
>>
>>1088993

It sounds like they put a fork on that is too long. Maybe a 27" fork for your 700c wheel or something. This can fuck up handling if it's severe. Otherwise it's just annoying

Do you have the original fork? Measure the axle-to-crown height and compare it to your new fork

Your bike shop sounds dumb as hell. Hopefully it was cheap.

>What do I do now?

the cheapest step at this point is hunting down a long-reach caliper brake with cable release. options: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/650b/TAI6lKW-Azw

I can't figure out why your QR doesn't fit in the dropouts. Maybe as the bike shop if they have any laying around to try. You can get hex-bolt locking axles on ebay for about $15
>>
>>1088995
thanks
The QR fits in but no matter how much I tighten it down slides around when I wiggle it at the top.
I have 700c wheels. I just held the forks up to each other. From the end of the crown or whatever right above the brake to the center of the dropout, the new one is about an inch longer. I asked the guy at the shop if he was going to double check the sizing but he said "700c forks are all the same" or something like that. It didn't sound right to me because of course, the geometry of every bike is going to be different and the rake distance isn't going to be the same.
It's a 1984 raleigh super course. Can I find a reasonably similar steel fork? Kinda mad at that shop now desu. I brought it back once to explain the slipping problem and once I finally got through to the guy to show him what was wrong, when I picked it up it hadn't been fixed.
>>
>>1089000
>The QR fits in but no matter how much I tighten it down slides around when I wiggle it at the top.
Are there equal amounts of ganged axle sticking out from the lock nuts at both ends?
>>
>>1089011
Yeah I think so. At this point I'm just gonna cut my losses with them and try to find a new fork that I can use my old brakes with. I spent like $150 to have them do an accident checkover and to replace fork, brakes, new tire, etc.
>>
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>spent over 200 bongs on first road bike for commuting to work
>tried riding and get tired after 10 mins
>really scared of riding in traffic
>been taking the bus but need to start riding soon

How to get gud?
>>
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Just graduated college at a aircraft maintenance school, dont have a full drivers license so i cant really get a job yet. Is being a bike tech good? hows it like? Yes i know how to fix a bike btw
>>
>>1089039

Ride your bike.

>>1089043

Bike mechanics are the lowest-compensated employees in any field.

You would literally do better bagging groceries.
>>
>>1089045
*generic quote stating do something you like*
fuck bagging groceries ive been working on bikes since i was a wee laddie plus you get discounts
>>
Here is my dilemma new bike well over bydget generally love it but it has a few weak points.
The fork is kinda weak but not a priority. At least its super light.
The breaks however... they are crap shimano br-356 or what with resin pads.

I want to upgrade to slx ice tech rotors and breaks eventually because i love to rip down even tho its an xc bike.

The rotor blades are resin only but i think i want to try semi metalic pads. If the rotor gets chewed up i replace them to ice tech. Then i replace the brakes eventually too.

Is this a good plan or not so much?
>>
>>1089051
Oh and what i want is more snappy breaks i have to pull less hard and have more braking power but also more thermal endurance eventually.
>>
>>1089000
>Can I find a reasonably similar steel fork?

Probably. But you're going to need to hunt on eBay for a fork that has the same axle-to-crown length AND steerer length. The top of the streerer is threaded and needs to be relatively close to the same length.

The other minor challenge will be to remove the fork race and put it on your new fork. Can be frustrating the first few times you do it, especially if you don't have the tools you need for the job

Is there a bike co-op anywhere near you? They probably have the fork you need for cheap, and someone to help you with the job
>>
>>1089059

* Crown race

And as a side note, all 700c forks are not the same! 1" difference is significant. Your bike now has higher trail, which makes the handling less sporty at slow speeds, but can improve stability at high speeds. Some like more, but your bike is probably better with the correct fork length

Very sorry for your shitty bike shop experience. A lot of people here got into building their own bikes for this reason. It's usually more expensive than you expect. A bike co-op or a local friend with tools is a god-send
>>
I think something is wrong with my hydraulic brakes. It seems like I have no pressure for the front one and I had to adjust the the back ones lever so that I need to grip extremely hard but I still get no pressure. I can see some part moving where it's not supposed to but I don't know shit about brakes. Should I just take it to a shop?
>>
>>1089079
yeah probably take it in to a good shop. Those rotors are tricky to align right and brakes are not the thing you want to fail when you're riding.
>>
Do rim brake pads have to be burned in like disc brake pads? Or will they work at maximum efficiency immediately their first use?
>>
>>1089079
What do you mean by 'no pressure'? Is your lever bottoming out against the bar? Does your lever feel squishy? Are your pads worn down? Is the lever pull longer than it should be? If you are running hydraulics and you don't know much about brakes you should probably go to a LBS.
>>
>>1089039
Just ride. You'll get stronger, faster, and more comfortable. Stop being a faggot and GO FUCKING RIDE. Right now. As soon as you see this post. Turn off your computer and go ride. I don't give a fuck if it's 3am and you have to get up for work in 4 hours. Just GO AND FUCKING RIDE, faggot.
>>
>>1089043
It's good as a short-term job because it gives you experience and knowledge that you can then use on your own bikes. Not a good long-term job because the pay is really low.
>tfw currently a LBS mechanic, been LBS mechanic off and on the last two years, not gonna do it too much longer probably but it's been good for a while for the knowledge/experience I've gained
>>
>>1089051
Those brakes don't exist, do you mean M365? They ain't too bad, fairly similar to a lot of other Shimanos without servo-wave, but they could be better.

Rotors won't make much difference at the same size, Ice Techs won't heat up as much on long braking periods but that's it and honestly you probably won't benefit from it. Larger discs will also heat up less as well as giving you greater leverage.

Organic resin pads actually have more initial bite than sintered metallic pads and are also quieter, metallic pads have the advantage of fading less at high temperatures, perform better when wet, and they last longer. You can also get other compounds that behave similar to organic but have kevlar reinforcement for heat resistance and longer life.

I would suggest that to get the results you're after you should get M675 brakes (best value for money from Shimano) and try them with the stock pads, if they wear down too quick look at kevlar pads unless you ride in the wet a lot or you're a big guy (bigger riders produce more heat from braking). Similarly you can look at larger rotors to reduce heat (floating rotors even more so).

It's also important to make sure you bed the brakes in properly which you can even try with your current ones to see if there's any improvement. Lightly sand the rotor and pads and clean them well with soapy water, get up to a decent speed and apply the brakes hard but don't come to a complete stop, repeat about 5 times or so.

>>1089079
As the previous replies have said, take it to a shop. It seems like something is definitely wrong but with your limited knowledge there's not much we can do to help.

>>1089084
They're good from the first use. Disc brakes coat the rotor with material from the pad and mate the surfaces, that's not the case with rubber pads on rims (if the pads are aligned properly, if they're wonky the braking will improve as they wear to contact the rim completely flat).
>>
>>1089092
i'm definitely not small lately between 230-260 lbs. why i said the brakes are crap because i used shimano m445 before and even those were way way better.
>>
>>1089116
m446 sorry posting from the phone can't look up shit because it's awkward as hell. so the m446 with 160mm disks performed better than the m365 with 180mm disk.

it's not that i can't stop with the bike it's the muddy feel to the lever and how hard i have to pull compared to the other one. feels like a whole different category and the m446 is entry level stuff.
>>
>>1089085
sounds like it got some air if hydraulic...
>>
okay next question:
what are the benefits of center lock vs 6 bolt?
would it be worth upgrading the hub to get center lock disks if i want new disks or not?
>>
>>1089128
they are acera hubs btw, i would eventually upgrade them to deore at least in the future. it's all about schedule really and how much i plan to wear down the parts before i replace them. sadly the compatibility issues muck this initial strategy up a bit.
>>
>>1089129
from what i found is the lifespan of acera hubs can go from 5-12 years even barring some damage if well maintained but some people have broken them in 100km. hubs are not particularly expensive but the work involved in changing them seems daunting.
>>
What are some decent DT friction shifters? Mine keep loosening themselves
>>
>>1089141
try some locktite on the threads
>>
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Are tubeless tyres worth it?

My rear tyre valves keep splitting near the steam, I think the tubes are slipping and/or the valve opening is sharp or something

I ride a mountain bike
>>
Best 700x28 tires for mixed riding?
>>
>>1089116
>>1089118
I would say something is wrong with your current brakes then because the M365 and M446 are pretty much identical. Try the bedding in procedure that I mentioned, it could be that yours weren't done correctly or your pads and discs are contaminated (you may need to buy new pads).

>>1089128
Centre lock is a little bit lighter usually and it's quicker and less fiddly to install the rotor, the downside is you need a cassette lockring tool to do it. There's no difference in braking performance so no it's not worth switching to if you don't need to.

>>1089161
I haven't personally used tubeless as I don't have a compressor to seat the tyres, but for how little it costs and the huge benefits it brings I would say it's definitely worth it. It won't fix your issue though, check your rim first and get any sharp shit you find filed down.
>>
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>>1089161
>Are tubeless tyres worth it?
Yes, definitely. Especially if you're running such low pressures that you have slip. That's what tubeless excels at.
>>1089166
>don't have a compressor to seat the tyre
Airshot. Pic related. I have one. 10/10 Would buy again.
>It won't fix your issue though
Yes, it will. The valve isn't fixed to anything but the rim in a tubeless setup, so there is nothing tugging at it like there is with a slipping tube setup.
>>
Are titanium frames ever worth it?
>>
>>1089170
I could get a compressor for not much more, maybe even the same price if I look around. I'll do it at some point, probably soon.

If the guy has a sharp valve hole then it could very well fuck up a tubeless valve too by pulling on the valve when inflating the tyre. Sure it's less likely to happen and may not even happen at all, but the real issue that needs fixing is with the rim.

It could also be that he's just buying shitty quality tubes in which case he just needs to buy better ones if he wants to save some money compared to going tubeless.
>>
>>1089173
If you want it and can afford it. The problem is titanium has the same stiffness to weight ratio as steel. Some people think titanium frames are very light, but they're only ever lightish, and if they are they're also very noodly.
But there are tons of other, mostly emotional reasons than grams to want the Ti. And if you'd like to have it and can afford it, why not?
>>
>>1089173
After carbon fiber became affordable, not even close.
You only get one if you think titanium is cool. If you want to go fast you get carbon fiber.
>>
>>1089175
>>1089177
Thanks, this just keeps confirming what I already thought.

But discussions with titanium owners put me in doubt, guess I was right that they are throwing money away for placebo.
>>
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>>1089174
>I could get a compressor for not much more
Not (as) portable. Much noisier. Needs big tank.
>If the guy has a sharp valve hole then it could very well fuck up a tubeless valve too by pulling on the valve when inflating the tyre.
Pic related. Also, no. Even if there is a bit of burr it 1/ can't possibly be enough to push cut a 90 degree bore edge through a tubeless valve plug, and 2/ even if it did superficially score the rubber it wouldn't matter, and 3/ if it cut the rubber clean through it'd hit the metal beneath rubber hood and the sealant would take care of any microscopic leaks. The urban legend shitty self-asploding tube boogey man is complete bullshit.
>>
>>1089166
>Try the bedding in procedure that I mentioned, it could be that yours weren't done correctly or your pads and discs are contaminated (you may need to buy new pads).
yeah i already did that, i cleaned them with window cleaner (which is mostly isopropyl alcohol) and rubbed the surface clean. what i found in difference is that the m446 has some servo valve thing the m365 lacks if i understand correctly could explain the different feel. i also thought about what if the break fluid has some air bubbles and it's somewhat compressible but it's a brand new bike these sets are sold as closed system by the manufacturer the ones who put them on the bike don't tinker with them just screw them on.
>There's no difference in braking performance so no it's not worth switching to if you don't need to.
nice, i just want to do it eventually but it's not a priority right now because i don't want to spend $300 on the bike at this moment.
i can get new new disks for $100 i'm gonna try the ice-tech disks and increase the rear disk to 180mm from 160mm. that alone should give me better thermal performance with the resin pads.

how can you check for fluid comprehensibility in a brake system? is there a procedure to remove air from them?
>>
>>1089190
The M446 doesn't have Servo-wave, the lever is identical to the M365 other than some slight cosmetic differences. The calipers are also almost identical, performance will be the same but the M365 is actually better as it looks like it can take a banjo fitting on the side.

Air bubbles could be the cause of the issue, even with a brand new system. Take it into a bike shop and they should be able to tell you if it needs doing by the lever feel and it shouldn't cost much to have it done (it's also fairly cheap and easy to do yourself if you wanted). You may be able to tell yourself, you should be able to feel when the pads contact the disc and then if there's air in the system they'll be significant lever travel after this point, probably ending with the lever close to the grip.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COLd57jDvOE
>>
>>1089192
i realized what was the problem but thanks, the feel is much better now with a little adjustment on the mounting. i released the mounting bolts pumped up the brakes and re-tightened, because the brakes were pushing the disk sideways. i also set something on the brake handle where the cable is attached and now i get to pull less hard and it's more snappy.

feels like my old bike almost, can't wait to try it out on the trails.

damnit... so simple.
>>
>>1089193
is 7nm good torque for shimano caliper mounting bolts? i get conflicting information when i googled. i tried to measure the torque before i unscrewed them first but that's not necessarily accurate if the bolts are set in. it was definitely more than 6nm to make them move and less than 9nm.
i found 6-8nm in a manual but also found 2-4 and 8-10 wtf
>>
>>1089199
You really don't need to be anal about torque numbers in most cases, the exceptions mostly being when dealing with carbon parts like seatposts and handlebars. Just do them up tight but not stupid tight.
>>
>>1089202
interesting the manual i got for the bike says i should use the minimum torque and assembly gel if possible to get the most durability out of the bike.
>>
>>1089285
You can use anti-seize compounds on the threads to minimise the chances of getting stuck bolts in the future if you want, I've personally never used it and never had an issue but that's just me.

Torque numbers are just a way for manufacturers to cover their arses and to stop idiots either not doing things up enough so parts come flying off or doing them up too tight and breaking them. If you're an idiot or have little mechanical experience then by all means use a torque wrench, it may even help you to get a feel for things so you won't need one as much in the future.
>>
>>1089293
this assembly gel is not simply anti seize its like sand it has these particles in it silica or ceramic very abrasive. it increases friction manyfold between surfaces. it also acts as a grease to separate metals preventing a bind.
>>
>>1089309
I know what you're talking about, it's commonly called friction paste. It's not really needed with metal components as you can tighten fittings enough to clamp them, it's generally used for carbon stuff so you don't need to tighten it as much. The only places it's really of any use is seatposts and stems (from both the handlebar and the steerer tube clamps), everywhere else the surface area is just too small to matter.
>>
How often should you change your front tire with your back tire?
>>
>>1089327
Never. You shoild buy a new front tyre when the rear wears out, and move your old front tyre to the back. You should never install a worn tyre up front.
>>
>>1089329
my tire has only gone through one season, i remember GCN saying you should switch em to make em last longer
>>
>>1089330
Theyre retards and you get the exact same mileage with the Sheldon method described.
>>
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so why did they stop selling panasonic bikes in North America?
>>
>>1089346
Re-negotiation of the value of the Japanese Yen to the US Dollar, accomplished by the mid-1980s "Plaza Accord," had the side effect of steeply raising the price of Japanese-made goods overseas, which especially hit the bicycle industry. Net result was that most Japanese brands withdrew from the US market, and both Nichibei Fuji (bikes) and Suntour (components) began descents that ended in bankruptcy. Panasonic, Bridgestone, and Miyata still make bikes for the domestic market
>>
>>1089351
so that's why i can't buy a rice cooker bike i seen on the moon web.
>>
Has cycling improved anyone's upper body posture at all?

I have kyphosis pretty bad and I'm starting to get desperate.
>>
>>1089354
if anything, it probably worsens it, if you want a good posture lift and use a good program, deadlifts will help alot of they are done correctly
>>
>>1089355
it's too late for that I got x-rays , though they say it's minimal I literally have bone loss on the spine, not slippage, but where the lower middle is clearly more rounded.

I am about as skinny as I can get which makes it more noticeably but I have no back pain or issues when I dont have extra weight from fat.

maybe i can get away with some uphill cycling just to build up a little core, i really want ripped calves and a stronger hip at least
>>
I had to replace the cables on my bike and no matter what I do I can't get the front derailleur to work. I've looked at maybe a dozen videos on youtube, but I can't shift onto the larger chainring.
When I attach the cable it and shift, it only moves slightly, if at all. When I tighten the cable as much as I can with the barrel adjuster it moves a bit, but never far enough to actually get it on the chainring.

Any ideas on what's going wrong? I'd like to avoid the damage to my ego and wallet from taking it to a bike store to get fixed if possible.
>>
>>1089354
pilates might be worth a look
>>
>>1089362
limit screws?
>>
>>1089365
I didn't move their position from when the derailleur was working perfectly and it still wouldn't shift.
I did try moving them a bit, but it didn't really change the situation much.

I feel like the problem might be that the cable isn't moving as much as it should be. I wonder if I messed up the cabling?
>>
how much does it cost to sandblast and powder coat?
>>
>>1089354
Getting into a full on aero position hunched over will make your kyphosis worse. Stretch your pecs and do some fucking rowing
>>
>>1089354

You've got it totally backwards.
Crosstrain core & flexibility to improve your position on the bike.
>>
>>1089585
Depends where you live
I found a place where they'll powdercoat a frame and fork for like $15 bucks, the place isn't a bike-related business so there's no hipster tax, though I still understand this is way cheap, I'd expect to pay around $50 or so
No idea about sandblasting, I've always just used paint remover, steel wool, sandpaper and a lot of patience
>>
I bought a shitty starter single speed. If I'm still riding by next year I'm gonna get a decent bike instead.
What parts make sense to upgrade on this bike that I can transfer over to my next bike?
>>
>>1089080
>>1089085
Yeah they bled the brakes and replaced the fluid , everythings good now.

On another note, is there a particular bottle holder that can hold a tall water bottle? I'm looking to carry like 750mL through a liter in one bottle.
>>
>>1089672
Saddle and pedals
>>
>>1089673
Just get a longer metal cage with a longer bottle and bend the cage open a little bit. I think I've gotten bottles that big in.
>>
>>1089673
750ml bidons fit standard holders. The diametre and fit is the same. It's just taller. Avoid blastig:DD holders and go for the steel ones. They'll hold a heavy bottle much more securely. If you're in the EU I can recommend Rose's own holders. Very sturdy, very secure, reasonably cheap and have been tested for 750ml bottles on washboard gravel. By me.
>>
>>1089673
Larger bottles fit in the same cages as smaller bottles, notice that the notch that the cage goes into to secure the bottle is at the same height (closer to the top on shorter bottles).
>>
>>1089585
Depends on where you live. In Seattle it's like $165 for a frame and fork.
>>
>>1088991
how do i keep my faggy office clothes unwrinkled when riding to work?
>>
I'm sure it's been asked before, but any recommendations on new tires/tubes? I'm hoping to get something more durable than what I have now. I tried looking at Schwalbe Marathon Plus, but it looks like my wheel might be too narrow for them. Current tires are 700 x 23. Sorry if I'm missing any info, I'm pretty new to all this.

Thanks in advance.
>>
>>1089696
You can get them down to 25 but chances are even 32/37 would be fine. What's more likely to limit you is frame and fork clearance.
>>
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There is this bike on sale, but they don't have the recommended size for me and I'm not sure whether to go the next size up

Pic related is their sizing chart. I am 188cm so I would have gotten the L size but there is none left. Do you think I will be okay with an XL size?
>>
>>1089725
No, don't get a larger size. Honestly it's best if you don't get that bike if there's no size for you. It might be a deal but if it's not a good size for you then there's no point buying it.
>>
Does anyone make an aero road bike with direct mount brakes and an integrated seat mast?

The Giant Propel Advanced SL is close but the brakes they use are stupid... I just want standard Shimano Dura-Ace direct mount calipers.
>>
Which one of these would be the best value for a beginner? I don't really want to spend too much but I don't want a shitty bike

http://www.cellbikes.com.au/Totem-Rapid-Expert-Disc

https://www.reidcycles.com.au/reid-cx.html

http://www.cellbikes.com.au/Totem-Rapid-Comp


I was originally going to buy this, but the postage pushed the price up heaps. I would only consider it if it was still really good value and is worth it over the rest. Is there anything else I should consider? I don't really want to spend more than $700 aud really.
https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/2015-hasa-r3-sora-18-speed-road-bike/R317
>>
>>1089738
Stay way from cheap disk-brake bikes. They always cut somewhere else more important to get you those disk brakes.
>>
>>1089738
Also try contacting cyclingdeal to see if you can get a deal on delivery.
>>
>>1089744
Sorry for posting a third time but shit nigga buy a bike already. Oh here's what I wanted to say:
When it comes to big purchases, companies are usually open to negotiation. For example, if delivery costs is the difference between buying it and not buying it, contacting them and saying this (over the phone helps since you're directly negotiating with a representative) has a good chance of helping. So long as the approach is kinda fair, like expecting free delivery on shit that's like $700.
>>
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What's this tool called?
>>
>>1089773
Spinnymathing
>>
>>1089747
I'll probably end up getting the HASA. The problem is I'm a massive tightass and I don't know how this is going to pan out as a hobby. Obviously right now I am really motivated to ride though
>>
>>1089776
I'm a tightass too, but cycling is really fun. So long as you're reasonably healthy and have the time to go cycling you'll not regret it. The reason super expensive bikes sell at all is because people regret not spending more money, most of the time.
>>
I want to take cycling more seriously since I only have a shitty city bike right now, I know that road bikes are better for going vroom vroom on but I live in a place with a lot of trails and gravel roads that I enjoy cycling on.

Will I really be held back that much by getting a hybrid now and getting a road bike later or should I just buy a sporty mountain bike and use it as a commuter when it's piss poor weather and for trail riding? I'm looking at getting something like this

http://www.bikesale.com/scott-sub-cross-30-men-commuter-bike-2017.aspx

Or this, but a bit more expensive

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.crescent.se%2Fcyklar%2Fica-klassiker%2Fhelag-27-vxl%2F%3Ftab%3Dteknisk-specifikation&edit-text=

It's easier to find used road bikes for cheap here than hybrids or mountain bikes so I'm thinking that I might as well pick up a road bike later and get a bike that can handle rougher roads and conditions first, someone on my local auctioning website is selling a Scott Speedster 50 for half of what they go for new but I'm broke right now anyways.
>>
>>1089782
Nah dude get a cyclocross. They've got speed and can handle rough ground and trails.
>>
>>1089783
I want to but even entry level cyclocross bikes are expensive
>>
>>1089784
If you're broke then you should save up for a real bike instead of wasting money on a headache.
>>
Does anybody know of any "tier list" of the different Shimano gears and brakes? Or is more expensive always better?
>>
>>1089786
http://road.cc/content/buyers-guide/206768-your-complete-guide-shimano-road-bike-groupsets
More expensive usually means lighter.
Once you're above tiagra there's very little actual improvement.
>>
>>1089788
>Once you're above 105
is what I think this guy meant to say
tiagra is department store bike tier, 105 is "current mainstream" and anything above that is fred shit
>>
>>1089789
Have you actually ever used anything below 105?
The difference between the very bottom of the shimano line and the very top is the difference between good and excellent.
>>
>>1089773

it's called a fidget spinner.
go with the times , gramps
>>
>>1089789

dude , current tiagra is flatmount hydro discbrakes.

i don't know in what kinds of department stores you're shopping.
>>
>>1089789
>tiagra is department store bike tier

not really, no.
I mean, if you PUT it on a department store bike it is going to shift like garbage because the people that assemble those things are literally payed to do the worst possible job.

But if you do a clean, tight build it will perform just fine.
>>
I have a steel road bike with an Italian BB shell. So far I've been using an old style BB (separate spindle and cups, loose bearings), but every time I ride on the rain I have to overhaul the whole damn thing since water, crud, dirt and pretty much anything else gets in there and makes a mess. I haven't been able to find a sealed Italian BB on any of the bicycle stores and workshops in my town.
Recently I came across a guy selling a Campy Athena sealed Italian BB for like $35, says it's in great condition and was recently serviced.
Is it worth it paying this much for it?
Is it a fair price?
Will I need a proprietary tool for it?
>>
>>1089789
Only Tourney is department store tier. New Tiagra is great. Hell, even Claris is good, just a bit clunky.
>>
Yesterday i did my biggest ride to date, 70 miles. I had only done 50ish before that a few times. How long should i wait as to repeat it or even better?
>>
>>1089827
Use marine grease
>>
>>1089830
A day or two
>>
>>1089831
I considered this before coming across the Campy BB. I've been checking out local maritime stores' websites but none of them seem to carry it, guess I'll go ask to the actual shop
Any thoughts on the BB itself?
>>
>>1089829
Tourney is Walmart tier

Claris is shitty bike shop tier

Sora is decent budget bike tier

Tiagra/sora blend is bikes direct tier

Tiagra is decent budget bike tier

105 is real bike tier.

Ultegra is pick and choose components for racing on a budget tier.

Dura-ace is im a dentist so no budget tier
>>
>>1089845
Marine grease is sold at auto parts store.

They don't actually use it on boats.

It's for packing wheel bearings and sometimes CV boots on fwd cars.

Go to AutoZone and ask for water resistant wheel grease it's like $25 a tin

But the tin lasts forever
>>
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>>1089585
>they powdercoated the BB spindle and the cups
>>
>>1089849
Just put 105 on my bike. Used to think ultegra was just lighter, but it seems the parts are made with more attention to detail. was happy to see most of 105 was made in japan though.
>>
>>1089694
like this
http://www.wikihow.com/Roll-Clothes

but for slacks lay them out with the seams on top/bottom and the pressed creases of the pant legs laying on each other (i.e. turned 90 degrees/sideways from how they show those jeans.) unzip the zipper and fold the waist inward from the front 2 belt loops and bring the rear-center beltloop inward and you'll find that the creases and pleats all lay flat in a row. then smooth and roll as shown
>>
>>1089773
"bike repair time! but first, let me change into some appropriate clothing. shirt, tie and slacks ought to do it. now, where the hell is my fidget spinner?"
>>
What's a good middle-end 700c road tire? No longer a poorfag, but not racing. 95% road, 5% maintained dirt.
>>
>>1089782
Anyone have any other suggestions? Are hybrid bikes adequate or should I just wait until I can get a cyclocross?
>>
Hey guys, I am looking for a good cheap bicycle (poorfag here). My budget is €300. I live in the city so I don't think I need a mountain bike but I'm really clueless when it comes to bikes, so any suggestions would be really appreciated!
>>
>>1089725
>>1089726
this. I've ridden a bike that was just slightly to large for me for years. Now I've got a smaller bike those last few years feel wasted
>>
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>>1088991
I need a comfy bike seat for my new fixie. My last mountain bike had a comfy seat and beach cruiser seats are magic, but I don't know if they'll look fucking retarded on a thinner bike.

What's a good inexpensive comfy fixie bike seat for my thicc (male) ass?
>>
>>1089967
i hesitated between xl and l a long time. l frame was too small in 26" but it's perfect in 29".
>>
>>1089944
90s rigid MTB from Craigslist, then spend the rest of the money on a pair of nice slick tires
>>
>>1089994
A beach cruiser saddle won't be comfortable on a fixie since your body is shifted forward, you'll just chafe yourself
The /n/-approved budget commuter saddle is the Charge Spoon
>>
>>1090006
Craigslist ain't too popular in Italy
>>
>>1090008
Well whatever site you people use for buying/selling used junk
>>
>>1090010
It's ebay mainly... I was hoping you or anyone could like tell me the name of a bike model because (again) I'm clueless
>>
>>1090011
It's hard to say, there aren't just "best bike models" for given prices. For your low budget your best bet is to get something used, and since prices vary wildly from country to country it's impossible to say for sure.
You could also get something from bikesdirect, but I can't vouch for their quality. A lot of people around here seem to be happy with their purchases from there though.
>>
>>1090014
Thank you, I'll check it out and I'll look around I guess
>>
>>1090014
>>1090017
As expected, bikesdirect ships US only
>>
>>1089791
sure, I had a lot of tiagra bikes when I was growing up. but we aren't talking about dura ace vs tiagra, we're talking about what's the point of diminishing returns, which is 105
>>1089812
I'm not familiar with the current-generation tiagra but if it's the same fussy design that the 5700 105 had, you're better off with an older 9-speed groupset or just going for one of the vastly improved 11-speed groupsets. the 10-speeds were just an awkward step that didn't work very well, the Windows Vista of groupsets
>>
>>1089944
Just buy whatever's used and in good shape, €300 won't take you very far if you're buying new
>>
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How the HECK do I get this thing off? Do I turn the outside lockring first and which direction? Clockwise or counterclockwise?
>>
>>1090043
you need a lockring tool
>>
>>1090044
I have one, but don't know which way to turn. I tried right, but it wouldn't budge. I'm afraid I'm doing something wrong.
>>
>>1089671
is this in texas?
>>1089693
yikes.
>>
>>1090047
It should loosen clockwise, but if you're still unsure you can always look up the bike model and see what kind of bottom bracket shell it has.
Also blast it with WD-40 and let it soak for a while, it's probable you're applying force in the right direction but it's just stuck in place.
>>
>>1090043
>>1090058
Wait never mind, non-drive side loosens counterclockwise
>>
>>1089773
Well fuck you too old man
>>
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>>1090061
Now that I'm turning it the right direction, it came off the first try.
>>
>>1090024
>I'm not familiar with the current-generation tiagra but if it's the same fussy design that the 5700 105 had
It isnt. It's exactly the same as the 11spd but minus one gear step. It is incompatible with older 10spd groups.
'Hurr-durr 105 is the sweetspot' is an example of rote learning of bro engineering and mindless soundbites. Not insight.
>>
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>>1090069

"105 is the sweetspot" dates from the fucking 90's, when the Trek 1000 was literally the gold-standard for entry level road bikes.
>>
What is the board consensus on aero bikes?
>>
>>1090102

Pointless except for time trials and ultra-distance triathlons where you are conceivably in contention for victory.

Mass start: You have ten dudes motor doping and using PEDs to draft. If you don't, what are you even doing there?
>>
>>1090106
Have you ridden one? They look pretty cool but I hear they're uncomfortable.
>>
Any recommendations for spd compatible road shoes, less than 300usd? Comfort over absolute stiffness.
>>
>>1090108

I think we may be talking about different things.

You are probably talking about pursuit bikes, like the one in this picture. That's quite a bit different from an "aero" bike.

A pursuit bike is intended for a very specific, short duration type of velodrome racing in which it is super important to be able to get as low as possible to draft efficiently and to avoid letting other riders draft you efficiently. People that ride them on the street are idiots.

An "aero" bike would generally be one designed for riding in events where drafting is either prohibited or impossible (because there is nobody else on the course).
>>
>>1090120
Dude I think when people refer to aero bikes these days it's about aero road bikes. Plenty of people use these as their standard road bike

Flatter tubes, probably more integration and potentially proprietary bullshit like brakes.

If you're buying a nice bike and don't spend all day climbing hills then it's certainly not a bad option.
>>
>>1089827
Pretty sure you can get a Shimano UN55 in Italian. They're like 25 bucks.
>>
>>1090135
you can, but campy uses iso taper and shimano jis taper which are different.
>>
I'm going to be moving to an apartment soon for grad school and I'm trying to figure out a way to hang my bike to be more efficient with space. Obviously I can't drill holes in the walls or anything. Any ideas? So far the only thing I've found is something called a Clug.
>>
>>1090145
Drill holes and close them with some paste after you are gone.
Seriously what kind of place doesn't let you drill the walls to install a cupboard or similar.
>>
>>1090069
good to know
>>1090075
well, I haven't owned any tiagra since the 90s, so there you go. we were all young and poor once
>>
>>1090187
You should keep up on your shimano. A 2017 sora is better than a 90s 105.
>>
So guys and gals, the time has come for me to buy a new bike.
I have had my eyes on a canyon cf sl 9.0 disc for a few month now, and i finally committed myself to buying one.

My size is out of stock.

Do i pony up the extra £770 to go for the aero version, mavic cosmic wheels + the integrated cockpit, and get it delivered 6 weeks sooner - or just wait?
>>
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>>1089045
>mechanics are the lowest-compensated employees in any field
I think you'll find there a people who work for substantially less monetary compensation.
>>
>>1090248
what size are you? I did their size tool and it put me on a medium which seems pretty small by the geometry.

I'm a 6 foot manlet with 35 inch inseam
>>
>>1090258
Medium too, and by their charts+ external guidance i should be right in the middle of medium
>>
>>1090248
What is 770quid to you?
>>
>>1090261
One hell of a good night out.

Nah, really, i don't know. What type of question is that
>>
>>1090262
It's your money, so it's your decision. It'll make you go faster, but £770 faster?
Personally I just recommend going for a different bike entirely if you can't find one in your size. There are LOADS of bikes out there.
>>
>>1090265
Faster isn't really the issue, i mean yeah i'm not opposed to the upgrades. But i'm just being a crybaby trying to reason this to myself it's worth it for 6 weeks sooner.
>>
>>1090112
bump
>>
>>1090112
Whatever fits on ya foot
>>
what gear ratio should I get in a place that only has long hils? nothing steep. Looking to make a single speed road bike because I am gay.
>>
>>1090313
Dude, why would you limit your gear ratio in a hilly area?
>>
What are my best options for a bike on a small budget? I've been riding an old crappy city bike for years and the back brake has given out and it's honestly not even worth fixing at this point.

I would love to get a cyclocross bike because I ride both on trails and on pavement but they're way out of my budget. Is there any particular style of bike I should be looking for if I just get a commuter bike now and buy a bike for riding trails later? Do I just go on my local auctioning site and see what's available around here and go and actually give them a test ride?
>>
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>>1090332
Someone has posted this on my local auctioning site, 10 speed Shimano, are vintage bikes worth getting or will my ass wage a war on me?
>>
>>1090332
How far will you be riding on road? You could always just get a mountain bike, it will be better on road than the cross bike will be off road (fully rigid with skinny tyres, shit geometry, and drop bars suck unless you're just riding on dirt paths, in which case a cheaper road will do the job nearly as well).
>>
>>1090341
Cracked seatpost tube junction

If you're so poor you can't afford anything else I guess you can try as is until it fails

Or jb weld it like that one homeless guy that used to post here
>>
>>1090313
not hilly, just a few long rises drops. also i am a stubborn idiot.
>>
>>1090348
whoops i meant to >>1090323
>>
>>1090344
When I ride off road it's mostly on dirt and gravel so I need tires that won't break from that but I also want to start going for longer rides, at least 30-50 km and more when I start getting in better shape.
>>
>>1090350
So you won't be riding on actual mountain bike trails with roots, ruts, rocks, etc.? If that's the case you could get by with a road bike or a hybrid with some chunkier tyres.
>>
>>1090351
True, I'll probably save some money and buy something like this instead

http://www.crescent.se/cyklar/ica-klassiker/angso-24-vxl/?color=gra&tab=teknisk-specifikation
>>
After wearing baggies and a t shirt for a year and a half I finally bought Knicks and a cycling specific shirt. How do I work up the courage to step outside wearing this shit?
>>
>>1090370
you have clipless pedals and a road bike already right?

if not, reconsider the decision to step outside
>>
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i got uhh top of the line shimano claris equipped bike and when i got it (400 miles ago) it shifted fine. its shifting like shit now. if im shifting into a bigger gear i have to click the shifter twice to move once. ive setup the derailer limiters screws and the other cable adjustment and works fine in my living room, but when on the road it does not. Is this what happens to shimano claris? or is it possible the problem is in my cables maybe? its a 2015 fuji tread 1.5 btw thx
>>
Any updates on the Canyons coming to the red, white, and blue? Seems like a poor move to start selling them in the 3rd Q when summer season is about end.
>>
>>1090375

Yeah. Clipless pedals, I even have some Oakley Radars. This just feels so final.
>>
>>1090394
if you have to interact with non-cyclists just lose your expectations about what a normal interaction is

most of the time being in spandex is not a problem but any trivial confrontations that under normal circumstances would be shrugged off and forgotten can go nuclear before you even know what happened, simply because of your sexy sexy spandex. it depends on the person you're interacting with, educated folk are fine, but working class people get incredibly triggered
>>
>>1090309
spd as in two-bolt mountain cleat, right?

Shoes are always going to be very personal preference, but I've been using the giro republic and they're not bad. The pontoons around the cleat are super close though, you might need to angle the cleat a particular way or use a shim to actually allow you to clip in. Not a clever design.
>>
>>1090402

Is it permissible to stuff my shorts to intimidate normies and avoid aggression?
>>
>>1090404
it will probably just make them more triggered
>>
Looking to commute 3 miles to in from work in a city, any road bike recommendations?

Also, is 3 miles challenging? I'm not a fatass, just don't ride.
>>
>>1090384
I don't think it would be the cables, perhaps if it was happening on the downshift it could be crud in the housing preventing the cable form moving freely and fighting the spring in the derailer but it shouldn't affect shifting in the other direction (except requiring more effort to shift). My best guess would be it's cause by excessive chain and/or cassette wear.
>>
I just got a bike recently but I THINK the front brake cable is a little too long. Would a longer than required cable/housing affect braking distance/stopping power?
>>
>>1090414
More cable means more friction and more housing compression (wasted power) but it's not going to be a significant amount. Shorten it if you can be bothered and are sure you won't shorten it too much, but don't worry about it if you don't want to do it.
>>
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I just tore apart my old steel bike and greased everything with bearings and now when I apply any pressure to the drops either left or right I hear a horrible creaking. Does this mean I put the fork back on too loose or too tight or could it be because I greased where the stem slides in?
>>
>>1090430
Did you remember to greaser your rims? They're pretty much a big bearing.
>>
>>1090444
I've got a pole you can grease
>>
>>1090430
Creaking means you DIDN'T grease something you should have.

It might be coming from the handlebars, try putting force on the fork through the stem.
>>
>>1090454
I didn't grease the stem itself. I'll try that when I get off work tomorrow.
>>
>>1090430
Creaking could also mean you screwed your handlebar on too tight.
>>
>>1089725
I fell for the "I'm a big boy" meme, and got a bike that I was in the range of (for ex, I'm a 185, so got the large equivalent in that pic) I don't have full elbow extension in my right arm, so will always get a smaller bike than the manufacturers recommend from now on, its much easier to make a smaller bike fit a larger rider than the other way around
>>
>>1090475
Get a shorter stem and slam the seat forward. But yeah, if you're faced with the choice of larger or smaller, choose smaller. Ideally you want the right size though.
>>
>>1090475
>>1090478
I ended up getting a 58cm size.

Sites like these also said it was the right size for me
https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer

Hopefully I should be okay.
>>
>>1090478
>Get a shorter stem and slam the seat forward
also get a handlebar with more back curve, and you can get a seat clamp that bends less backward.
>>
where the /fuck/ do I find a 700c threaded unicrown cromoly stem? i know that isn't the standard anymore but they have to be somewhere. fuck.
>>
reverb or an other drop seatpost worth the price for an xc bike? the truth is i enjoy the downhills a hell of a lot more than the climbs but the ideal seat position is obviously totally different for the two. i would like to ride a bit more technical trails too maybe sure the xc is not made for that specifically, but i guess that just limits my speed in the end.

i'm gonna replace the disks for ice tech sm-rt99 180mm ones and the break system probably for slx in the future. when the fork kicks the bucket in a few years i'm getting a reba thru-axle fork too. the drop seat is also part of the changes i'm planning.

that should pretty much max out what a hardtail can do and it still remains an okay xc bike.
>>
>>1090603
>unicrown stem
Get a load of this n00b
>>
>>1090621
wat
>>
>>1090610
Don't bother with a Reverb, stupidly expensive for no benefit. Actually it's worse, it's less reliable and more of a pain to maintain. I can recommend the DNM ASP, cheap but decent. The remote is a bit crappy but does the job, but if you did want to change it there are plenty of replacement options (I've got an Easton Haven remote that I'm going to swap to).
>>
>>1090628
i would even be okay with a drop post with no remote just a lever to be honest. on our usual rides there are fucklong descents and climbs not much variation.

i don't want to fuck up my seatpost tho with constant changing and also don't want to waste time doing it so that's why i want a drop post.

sure remotes are convenient but i can't understand why the big brands don't make options for levers.
>>
>>1090633
KS make some lever posts but they're not any cheaper than ones with remotes. There are plenty of old models though if you're fine with going second hand. If you didn't want to take up handlebar space or can't be bothered running the cable the DNM post I mentioned can also be actuated by hand, a little fiddly to do whilst riding but easy enough if you stop. You could also just leave a short bit of bare cable hanging and tug on that.
>>
>>1090638
why is that lever and normal posts seem to go at lower drop length than stealth? they top out at 100mm.
>>
>>1090649
By stealth you mean those with internal cable routing, right? Those can drop far more than 100mm, 150mm isn't unusual and I think there are even some that go to 180-200mm now. That's because they're generally a higher end option and the higher end frames have internal routing.
>>
>>1090409
itll b hard in the beginning, but if u keep at it it will feel like nothing.

>>1090412
does the chain and shit rly wear down after 400 miles? i always clean it and regrease etc
>>
>>1090661
I honestly have no idea how long a chain/cassette/chainrings should last, I've never worn one down myself as I end up replacing them for other reasons. Riding in adverse conditions will accelerate wear as will using the wrong type of lubrication (wet lube in dry conditions will attract grit, dry lube in wet conditions won't last as long). 400 miles does sound a lot less than I'd expect though, even with my short commutes that would mean I'd get through a chain in like 6 months and I've had rusty chains that I've never relubed last longer than that.
>>
>>1090454
>>1090473
It was coming from where the handlebar connects to the stem. I hadn't messed with the bolt at all there. It arbitrarily decided that the day I take everything apart it would creak on me. Grease fixed it.
>>
I want to lower my stem. I am planing on puting a 10mm spacer above my stem. ..is this a bad idea, carbon forks needing the internal compression plug.

My question is...is 10mm to much above the stem?
>>
>>1090652
they are about the same price tho. that's what i can't understand. price diff is minimal at a certain line.
>>
>>1090726
Yeah, but their are less cheaper options for internal routing. Of course there are high end options with external routing, there were still high end frames before internal routing was common.
>>
I've been riding bikes for a long time and have performed every overhaul/maintenence I can.

I just recently bought my first hardtail with a 2007 Rockshox Reba SL fork. I want to service it with a seal overhaul kit. How hard is this process?
>>
>>1090778
Wear two condoms and have your mother on speed dial
>>
I dont really have a question this is just the best place to talk about it
Im gonna build my first pair of wheels and I'm really excited about it. Sun ringle rhyno-lite rims, shimano 105 hubs.
>>
>>1090778
this reminds me of an other question.
let's say you have a rockshox tora which is no longer produced. let's say you want to change the coil to a extra soft one because the rider weights less than 60kg.
how would you go about finding a coil that can replace the current one?
it's a bike bought used we don't know the exact production date we don't even know the exact type or travel. i guess that should be the first to determine but how? also what coils could possibly be compatible with a tora?
>>
>>1090778
If you've got a service manual to hand, all the correct tools, and the time and patience it's not that hard.

>>1090797
If you're lucky the serial number on it will be able to date it but I have no idea which manufacturers do this or where you'd look. What I do is narrow down the general year based on the shape of the lowers and then get the specific year from the stickers (they tend to change every year), then to get the exact model I match up the features such as air/coil, travel, adjustments, etc.

Finding out how much travel you have is easy, just remove the top cap so the spring can slide out and then you can easily compress the fork, put a cable tie on the stanchion and use that to mark full compression and measure from that to the dust seal at full extension.

As for the spring, you don't need a specific replacement. As long as it's the right length and diameter it'll be fine. Forks with the same stanchion size will generally have the same diameter springs so that narrows it down a bit. Spring length is more difficult as it won't be the same for every fork of a certain travel so you want to ask the seller to measure it. Just make sure you don't get a spring fork a fork with less travel even if it is the right length as it may not compress enough.
>>
>>1090798
serial is a nice tip, after some search i found rock shox should have the year as the first two number of the serial on the back of the crown thx.

worst case we measure the travel as you said. altho wouldn't spacers change this with a coil spring? it would definitely work for air springs but coil compresses differently.

we already know it's not an air fork.
>>
>>1090801
I know it's not air, just saying that's one of the things I use to identify a fork.

>worst case we measure the travel as you said. altho wouldn't spacers change this with a coil spring?
Spacers can do two things, either preload the spring to set the sag for forks without external adjusters or they can reduce the travel. Preload spacers won't effect the measurement but travel spacers will. Travel spacers don't limit how much the fork compresses but rather prevent it from going to full extension.
>>
I recently converted my old road bike into a flat-bar bike. Nothing changed with the shifting because down tube, but I needed new levers and cables. I bought some levers and cables, except that the cables came in the housing. This would be fine, except that the cable is some sort of shitty universal one with both flat and drop bar cable ends. My bike has an area under the top tube where the wire is exposed. How the fuck am I supposed to cut the cable housing with the wire inside? And I can't remove the cable from the housing because that would mean cutting one of the ends off, which leaves a frayed end that would be impossible to put back in the housing. I'm actually stuck. The only solutions I can remotely see are getting some specialized tool to cut the wire cleanly so I can remove it from its housing, or just getting cucked and buying another set of cables and housing. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>>1090851
If don't go full ape on it it's fairly easy to get a clean cut with a pair of wire cutters, the strands will separate but you just twist them back together.
>>
>>1088991
If i am building up a road bike with a 56/42 chainring combo, should i get a wider range cassette than an 11-25 or whatever so i have good climbing gears and such
>>
>>1090857
Yes.
You will almost certainly need a long cage derailleur as well.
>>
>>1090857
>planning for 56:11
>worried about useful gears
wat
>>
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what bike do i buy? i need a bike solely for transportation along my nice vancouver bike paths. i got around $600. also i am a big guy (6'4) so it needs to fit right.
>>
>>1090857

Nah, it won't matter.
>>
>>1090861
>>1090859
>>1090858
okay well then whats the widest road cassette i can fit on a 105 hub?
>>
>>1090860
Doesn't really matter. You get what you want to ride.
>>
>>1090857
>56:11
>wants good climbing gears
wtf
>>
I apologize in advance, I never post here.
I build motorized bicycles and mopeds for dumb hipsters. Current customer wants a frame like this, but I have no fucking idea what this kind of frame is called, what companies I could look at, whatever. Price isn't really an issue as long as it's under a grand.
>>
>>1090902
No idea. Looks like a custom built frame desu.
>>
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>>1090902
It's styled on a path racer
>>
>>1090787
post a thread about it I want to read about your experience

been wanting to do that for a while but I'm too much of a pussy
>>
>>1090906
>>1090903
thanks. at least i have a style to go off.
>>
>>1090384
cables usually stretch within the first couple hundred miles. Either that or lack of cleaning will affect your shifting.
>>
>>1090384
>top of the line
>shimano claris
>>
>>1090865
5800 11 speed, or older 10 speed 105?

You can get 11-32 5800 105 cassettes, but you'll need the long cage derailleur; do the math and see if it will work.
>>
>>1090926
Don't hate because you can't replicate
>>
>>1090626
Stems aren't unicrown. Forks are. Stems also aren't threaded. Headsets and forks are. What you're looking for is a quill stem of unknown diameter. They fit threaded forks. Unicrown or lugged alike.
Get a pair of calipers, get an exact measurement and unless it's one of the I'll-invent-my-own-standard-because-I'm-French diameters you'll find one at SJS/Ebay/LBS/bike kitchen in no time.
>>
>>1090384
Clamp the wheels down before adjusting the gears dude
>>
>>1090926
have u ever used it or only read abt it bru
>>1090960
what do u mean by this
>>
>$200ish budget
>looking for something to use for commuting and light-medium trail riding in the Finger Lakes of NY
>fine with used
What type of bike should I get?
>>
>>1091034
90s rigid MTB
>>
>>1090983
Claris is still low tier.

Sora is great these days but Claris is still claris.
>>
>>1090983
Not saying it's good or bad, it's just not top of the line
>>
>>1090931
According to some YT, the short would work.
>>
I rode 30+ miles no problem.

Orange soda before the ride and didnt drink or eat during the trip.

Also didnt wear a helmet, sorry but it was great.
>>
>>1090889
yeah i need a good low end to get up any hills, then a nice top end to blast my way down the other side
>>
>>1090851
A good quality pair of pliers will cut through the cable no problem. The universal cable is intended to be cut at the end you're not using. Provided you get a clean cut the cable will stay together, it'll be easy to thread it into the housing.

As for cutting housing, the same pliers will do. Almost any tool you use will leave the housing in a mess, you need to clean up the cut by using a file, wet and dry paper, or a grinding wheel. The end of the cable should be square and flat. Stick a toothpick in the plastic cable sheet and wiggle it around to make sure the cable won't snag as it exits the housing.

Remember to use ferrules and cable end crimps.

Sheldon Brown has a ton of info on this topic,, get used to using the site as a bike bible.
>>
Got a sidewall tear today.

Does that mean the tyre is kaput?
>>
>>1091308
Pics?
If it's small enough i'd say use a boot+glue and hope it stays, otherwise ya, new tyre
>>
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Uni student here, just lost my bike while on a job because I'm a fucking idiot and didn't lock my bike.

I've got around a budget of £400 and I'm looking for a decent hybrid or road bike that can handle gravel road.

My old bike was pic related, I really enjoyed the brakes being a toggle as opposed to the spinning handle one. Here are some candidates that I'm looking at, can you guys shed some light on these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BTwin-Triban-5-Road-Racing-Bike/112475833920?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1431.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Btwin-Triban-500-Road-Bike-Large-sized-Frame-Excellent-Condition/302380875520?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1431.l2649
>>
>>1091317
If it were my choice i'd go with the first link one, the triban 5. It's got a sora groupset as opposed to microshift-whatever, so is better in that respects.
>>
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>>1091317
>I really enjoyed the brakes being a toggle as opposed to the spinning handle one.
>>
>>1091317
Sorry to hear about your loss.

Like the anon underneath you said the triban 5 is the better bike.
But since these are 2nd hand bikes the condiction of them is more important imo.

Look at excessive chain or cassette wear
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fbvQueVSr0Q/TsB6IdUsktI/AAAAAAAAIYE/ZfbRVpmsLbo/s1600/IMG_5567.jpg

https://cdn-cyclingtips.pressidium.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/easy-way-to-check-chain-wear-cyclingtips-2.jpg

Look for Damaged/worn tires
https://www.schwalbetires.com/files/verschleiss_abgefahren_en.jpg

http://xl-network.com/sites/xl-network.com/files/imagecache/full/images/Schwalbe%20Durano%20-%20damaged%20sidewall.jpg

And of course look if the frame is in good order,no bent in fork or cracks around the welds

Good luck anon.
>>
>>1091321
>>1091329
Thanks, I'll keep an eye out.

Do you guys have a list of respectable brands? I've been told by my friend that I should look out for deals from Trek, Giant and Specialized.
>>
>>1090409
The distance shouldn't be a problem at all, especially after the first several rides. If you're ONLY commuting on it, not long-distance recreational riding, a hybrid bike might suit you better than a full-on road bike. What's your budget?
>>
>>1090860
> solely for transportation
Don't get some meme-level road bike with ultra-narrow tyres and no mudguards or pannier rack, because that's impractical.

>on nice bike paths
Don't get a serious offroading mountain bike with knobbly tyres and full suspension, because that's really inefficient for normal riding on nice cycle paths.

But in general, what >>1090861 says is pretty true.
>>
Just started cycling and the bike I got came with a seatpost that's too short for me, so I'm getting a new one. Thinking of getting one with suspension because some of the "bike lanes" around here are literally rock paved roads.

tl;dr: Suspended seatpost. Yes or no and why?
>>
>>1091386

>bike I got came with a seatpost that's too short for me

Hoooo, boy...

I want you to stop and think about that for a while.

>Thinking of getting one with suspension

kys

if you absolutely have to, the Cane Creek Thudbuster is the only one that isn't complete and utter trash. But I'm guessing that it costs more than your bike did, so...
>>
>>1090409
>Also, is 3 miles challenging?

3 miles isn't even a challenge on foot if you're not a fatass.
>>
>>1091386
No, you'll just be bouncing around, plus they're expensive and heavy
Get good, wide tires instead.
>>
>>1091411
Large bike, short post. It's secondhand but barely used.

>Cane Creek Thudbuster
Not more than the bike, but more than I'm prepared to pay.

Appreciate the highly informative response btw.
>>
>>1091415
>Large bike, short post.

Not really a thing.

It sounds like you are perhaps looking for a road/hybrid riding position from a compact MTB style frame?

I'm guessing you have a sloping top tube. If you don't, the bike is entirely the wrong size for you.

If you do, though, part of what you need to do is just get stronger. A lot of time spent riding on a MTB happens while riding out of the saddle in "attack position". You should be able to pedal for extended periods with a relaxed body position while standing on a frame like that. If you can't, your fitness is the main thing that needs to improve.
>>
What are some good MTB websites? I'm looking for product reviews, bike tests, and an active, helpful forum. TIA
>>
>>1091452
MTBR, Pinkbike, VitalMTB, GMBN has some good videos (helpful shit as well as entertainment).
>>
How good will it be going from a sora 3500, to an ultegra 6800 fitted bike
>>
>>1091528
Yes
>>
>>1091537
Yes!
>>
in a new city with no tools and little spare cash:

how and where to find a place to rebuild a bike on the cheap/for free?
>>
>>1091629
like you have a bike that needs work? Maybe try to find a bike co-op or something. work for work
>>
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>>1091528
>>
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>>1091450
>sloping top tube
Yeah. Pic related is the exact one I got.

Getting a longer post under the recommendation of cycling friends who got me into this whole thing. As I've said, I just started and by that I mean the first time I got on a bike in my life was less than 4 months ago. Only reason I even considered the suspended post was because all the routes to work are bumpy as hell.
>>
Plan on getting back into riding, trying to lose weight but it's hot as fuck right now. What's a good indoor trainer, main use daily cardio?
>>
>>1091660
Goddamn northhemispherian go ride shirtless or something, I wish it was hot as fuck here
>>
>>1091654
You shouldn't need the saddle much higher than in that photo, if you do then the bike is too small for you.
>>
>>1091686
Stop grilling the poor guy with the bike size, he already bought it and I doubt he'll return it any time soon, let him get a long seatpost and a long stem eventually
>>
>>1091695
That's my first post to the guy, just wanted to let him know that he fucked up in choosing the correct size so he knows for any future purchases.
>>
>>1091698
Or maybe the previous owner switched the seatpost for a shorter one and now Anon can't raise it to proper height, who knows
>>
>>1091707
Possible, but with a barely used bike I doubt it. It would actually be hard to find a post that short and there's practically no reason to hunt one down.
>>
>>1091686
Don't need it much higher, but the level in the photo is at the limit mark.

>>1091707
Don't think he did.

What about moving the saddle back a bit?
>>
>>1091714
So you also have a too short reach? Bike's definitely too small for you then. Get a longer stem. Or a bigger bike.
>>
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This is an odd question but... anyone have a better way of carrying a suit jacket on a bike when commuting? My current technique is to put the jacket in a garment bag on a hanger, put the hanger around the seatpost, then drape the bag over my rack and panniers, the whole thing gets held in place with a bungee cord. See picture for the general idea (bag is empty in this case, and normally the bungee cord goes around the outside of the panniers).
>>
>>1091742
no, i don't, but if I ever have to transport a suit jacket, I'll probably use your technique.
>>
>>1091742

Why don't you just have your dry cleaner deliver your jackets to your office instead of your home?
>>
>>1091742
Put in bag, fold in half, put bag in solid container (like a milk crate), secure container to rack, cover container
>>
>>1091742
I do the same thing that I do when I fly,.. jacket turned inside out, trousers folded inside the jacket

the entire thing goes inside a pannier. and the shoes go in the other pannier along with comb, deodorant, socks, underwear, belt, and so on. as long as you're not wearing like super 150s or something retarded like that, it's going to be fine

the bigger problem is the shirt and tie. broadcloth is out of the question, poplins are not so great either. no print ties, no ancient madder, no reppe. you need slightly textured everything and simple solid colors to disguise the wrinkles or at least make them forgiveable. for me it is royal oxford for the shirt and a garza fina grenadine tie, the slight roughness of both makes any wrinkling look possibly intentional

>>1091769
why carry anything on a bike when you can use a cage, hurr bikes are for fags DAE XD
>>
where can you score good deals on secondhand accessories such as touring racks? craigslist is a crapshoot and ebay is drowned out by listings of sponsored rice-a-roni garbage that looks like it'd break just from you having looked at it
>>
>>1091774
>why carry anything on a bike when you can use a cage, hurr bikes are for fags DAE XD


How does that follow from the premise that you could have your suit jackets delivered where you need them instead of where you don't?
>>
Is the 1X a meme? I've been seriously contemplainting on converting my 9 speed (ya, 9 speed) 3x9 to a 1X. I never use the big chainring. I think the declutter is good and honestly i think the look of it is cool. Thoughts?
>>
>>1091893
I think it makes a lot of sense for mountain biking, for road bikes it seems impractical unless you never ride up hills (crit bike?)
>>
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It's happening lads

As to maintenance on a carbon frame, what do i need to know?
I know there's specific paste/grease needed for contact like seatpost clamping, but anything else?
>>
>>1091938
Torque wrench everything
>>
>>1091937
Yes, this would be on my 2007 Gary Fisher 29er MTB.
>>
>>1091940
Really?
The bike comes with its own iffy looking torque tool, would it be a worthwhile investment to get a decent one?
>>
What are the most affordable wide MTb bars?
>>
>>1091951
i used the crap out of it with my al grand canyon. it's perfectly okay but has it's limits. for the screws it will be okay, only the saddle clamp adjustment is problematic with it because of the angles and the seatpost is in the way.

obviously you will not be replacing the bottom bracket or the center lock disks with it.
>>
>>1091955
BB is press fit so no problems there, disks are onto an aluminium hub and i'm confident enough torquing that by hand.
If the included tool is as good as you say it is i might hold off then
>>
>>1091959
everything else is well in the capability range of the canyon wrench. one thing i have to mention sometimes it gets awkward to get a read from the dial. if you practice kama sutra you should be fine.
>>
>>1089039
ride every day. even if its for half a mile. Just ride faggot. Anyone you see thats good on a bike, has been riding for years.
>>
>>1091964
i ride 2 times a week and there is a world of difference from 3 months ago. i used to almost die on some climbs i can now make without getting winded.
>>
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>>1091938
did you get an Aeroad?
>>
>>1091893
if you find yourself never using one chainring, there is nothing wrong with removing the other ones. don't think you NEED to buy specific "1x" drivetrains that are super expensive, you can DIY it if you get the chainline and shit right

I had a triple on my commuter for a while. my front derailleur broke and i ended up riding the big ring only for a few weeks, removed the smaller two and now i'm rocking a 53T 1x7 speed
>>
>>1091951
>The bike comes with its own iffy looking torque tool, would it be a worthwhile investment to get a decent one?

I've never, ever bought a quality tool and later regretted it. Even the kinda niche ones it's like, "damn I'm really glad I have this!". A good torque wrench is definitely not niche.
>>
Do you need a rockshox fork pump or with a standard floor pump do the job?
>>
>>1092003

You need a shock pump.
>>
>>1092002
Except torsion bar torque wrenches aren't iffy in the slightest and much more accurate within their range than a clicky spring loaded thingamabob that hasn't been calibrated in a year or so.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the Canyon torque wrench. Except that it is ranged for finishing kit rather than 40 N/m cassette lockrings, but we've established that already.
>>
>>1091938
You lucky son of bitch, I can't wait for them to start selling in America next month. Getting an Aeroad. They better not sell out.
>>
How ok is it to use a 29er fork on a 27.5 frame and wheels?

I intend to replace the sus fork on my hardtail with a rigid one, and here I have much better options if I pick a 29'' one.

My current frame has a 71/73 head/seat angles with a 100mm fork. Will putting a 29 suspension corrected fork really fuck with my geometry? I know its probly gonna slack up a bit but it's not gonna make my bike handle like an 18 wheeler truck. Or will it?
>>
What makes normies unable to drive on a Friday night?

Everyone just seems to drive faster and pass closer on a Friday.
>>
>>1092098
It will probably change the geometry, but whether it will be better or worse is hard to say. If it's a longer fork then you'll slacken the head angle (generally good to a certain extent), slacken the seat angle (bad), raise the bottom bracket (bad), increase the wheelbase (usually good), increase the trail (good or bad depending on who you ask, may not change much or at all depending on the offset of the forks). Depending on what and how you ride you may find some of those trade offs to be worth it, or the difference may be small enough that it just doesn't matter.

Also you can go the other way, a suspension corrected 26" fork will have enough room for 27.5 but be shorter.
>>
>>1092098
>I intend to replace the sus fork on my hardtail with a rigid one, and here I have much better options if I pick a 29'' one.
The radius difference between 29" and 27.5" is only 19 mm. That's about the error margin for suspension compensation anyway. Or the difference between the extra sag of a plush fork setup and low tyre pressure, or a pumped up or locked out fork and hard-pack tyre pressure. No one has ever claimed that to turn the bike into an oil tanker.

So in the grand scheme of things it won't even matter for a rigid fork. Choose the 29" forks if they're cheaper/better/more available.
>>
>>1092131
alcohol
>>
i have a gravel / adventure bike with fenders and a rack that i use for commuting. should my next bike be a gottagofast road bike or should i get a trail bike and learn to mtb.
>>
>>1092137
your geometry changes all the time on a suspension fork. a 100mm fork with a 20mm slag means it still has 80mm to accommodate a 29" wheel. so you would need to buy an 80mm suspension corrected rigid fork for the same geometry. if you buy a 50mm corrected it should be the same angle with a 27.5" wheel.
>>
>>1092140
I had a 120 mm fork on a 100mm frame and it fucked a whole lot of things up including the frame headtube welds while having slow steering that overshot corners.
>>
>>1089741
besides who needs disk brakes on a road bike?
>>
>>1092143
Suspension corrected just means long, you can't get forks corrected for a specific amount because even at the same travel amount fork length can vary quite a bit across models and manufacturers.

A 29" suspension corrected fork will most likely be longer than a 27.5" fork of around 100mm travel even at full extension (so not including sag) so yeah it will affect the geometry in all the ways I mentioned.
>>
>>1089782
i went from a road bike to a Scott sportster x20 sub hybrid and im never going back to road bikes for riding around town, the seatpost suspension is great for shit roads and the gear setup makes is great for climbs, The only bad thing about hybrids is you are never gonna be hitting the heavy gears unless youre riding downhill with the wind on your back because wheels are too grippy and not thin enough for speeding
>>
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I put tire for turbotrainer on spare wheel. It has 10sp cassette. Is there any risk to run it on trainer with 11sp drivetrain bike, if I won't shift speeds?
It's pain in the ass to change tires every time.
>>
>>1092166
Nop, so long as you don't shift, like you said.
Finding a meshing derailer/cassette position could be fiddly though
>>
If I want a cheap road bike is going vintage a good idea?

Let's say you want to spend only $200 would you rather have a brand new Chinese bike or a bike from the 80s that used to be expensive?
>>
>>1092229
any modern road bike you buy for $200 is gonna be shit. on that budget go vintage. The ABSOLUTE minimum for a modern road bike is like $500-600
>>
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What do you call the gold/copper/chrome piece on this brake lever? I need to replace one of mine because it is all bent up but I can't find the right word to describe it or know where I could get a replacement.
>>
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Is it a bad idea for me to heat this up, bend it back, and try to build off this frame?
>>
are you allowed to kill a bike thief in america?
>>
Is cycling a good way to lose weight?

Also how do I prevent my ass from hurting after cycling?
>>
>>1092294
If it's steel you can try. Wouldn't bother with aluminum.
>>
>>1092326
No
>>1092327
Maybe at first, and padded bibs
>>
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tl;dr: chainline fucked, ok to change BB to fix it?

I'm fixing a BMX, the chainline is way off and the chain keeps dropping. Just eyeballing it the chainring is much further out than the rear cog. I took out the BB and measured it to 123mm. I was thinking that I'd get a 113mm Shimano UN26 to bring it closer.

Does this sound like a reasonable fix or should I do something else instead?
>>
>>1092264
I'd just get new levers, you are unlikely to find that small part.

If it's some period correct vintage build.. good luck.

>>1092327
Ride more, it gets better as you get used to sitting in the saddle. Also try adjusting your position on the bike. In my experience a too low saddle height hurts your ass. Also, a bit controversial, but if your handlebars are too high it might also be worse on your ass.
>>
Need this answered as fast as possible.

What's better for a front hub? loose or caged bearings? I wanna go loose since this is the 3rd cage I've cracked in a year.

If loose how many balls do I put on each side and should I use the same ball size as the caged bearings that I've used so far?
>>
What garmin mount do you lot use?

I'm still using the out front one that came with my 820 and am wanting something of a bit higher quality.
>>
>>1092379
Both should work fine.

Let me consult my magical crystal ball and I'll be back with the measurements for your bearing balls and races without even knowing what hub it is.
>>
what's the deal with rear suspension?

Whenever I've ridden one I've found it just robs so much power from your pedal stroke.
>>
>>1092416
A decent shock and a decent suspension design (the actual frame) can pedal quite well. Of course you're always going to lose some energy and you have the extra weight to deal with, but depending on what you're riding the increased traction and bump absorption can be worth the trade off.
>>
>>1092416
Cheap ones suck ass, some of the expensive ones aren't annoying if you pedal smoothly... but those bikes cost over 2000€/$

What do you ride now, are you sure you need suspension at all?
>>
>>1088991
where should I look for used 27.5 mtb frames? I have a budget of $300 - $700 and dual suspension would be kewl
>>
>>1092142
trail bike
>>
>>1092471
A decent shock on a cheap and simple frame will usually pedal better than an expensive frame with a not so good shock, the exception maybe being frames specifically designed to pedal well with a lot of anti-squat. You don't need to spend anywhere near that much to have a full susser that pedals well

>>1092492
Ebay and Pinkbike
>>
i just bought this for 65€
i plan on losing those bullhorn things
its kinda heavy but i guess thats to be expected
any recommends what else i can do to it to make it better?

also sorry for screenshot image, i havent taken a picture myself since its dark so lifted the picture from the ad
>>
>>1092522
I'd personally replace the tyres and saddle, if you don't mind spending more than what you paid for the whole bike.
>>
>>1092614
Ill definitely replace the saddle yeah, tires are actually fairly new i think, and im clueless as to how to pick appropiate tires so i might hold on that for now
>>
>>1092522
Remove the accessories that you don't need. Find the right tire pressure for you, the tires should give a bit when riding over rough stuff so they don't rattle you and the bike to bits, but too low and it makes the bike slower and more likely to pinch the tube.
>>
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what kind of bike is this ? its a peugeot looks like a uo10 super light but the fork looks more like a uo10 course. I could be completely wrong though, help guys!!!!!
>>
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>>1092737
heres the fork
>>
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got some new disks i got impatient and put them in realized after they are "narrow type" disks while i have the standard shimano b01s pads in the br365 brakes. now the pads are obviously wider than they should be by a few millimeters what will this cause? is there a chance of my pads biting into the arms and causing a potentially fatal lockup?

if the brake pad wears out faster i don't give a fuck, i will replace the brakes to slx eventually, if the disk wear out faster that's a problem but maybe i can deal with it. if there is a chance of a bad lockup tho i would like to know about it.
>>
>>1092748
> they are "narrow type" disks
First time I've ever heard that term. Are you trying to say they have a narrow braking track? That's not really a type, just a property of the discs.

>i have the standard shimano b01s pads in the br365 brakes. now the pads are obviously wider than they should be by a few millimeters
Those are the correct pads for those calipers, they shouldn't be any larger than they're supposed to be.

> is there a chance of my pads biting into the arms and causing a potentially fatal lockup?
It should be quite obvious if there's contact between the pads and rotor carrier. I doubt there will be as the rotor will top out in the caliper before that happens (and you'd need to be using the wrong sized mounting adapter).

If that photo is the rotors you've actually got then a more likely issues would be the pads hitting the aluminium cooling fins. If that does happen you'll want to space the caliper out slightly with some washers between it and the mounting adapter.
>>
>>1092749
the g01a pad is the one i should be using with this rotor rather than the b01s, it is a few mm less tall and few mm more wide than the b01s.
it belongs to the higher end brakes.

they don't hit the alu fans thankfully, what i'm afraid of is the following:
>lower 1mm of the break pads has way less contact surface than the upper part, which will result in less wear, so the brake pads remain thicker there, and they chew into the section above the arms attachment point badly resulting in wear on the steel plating more significantly than the part that should be used for braking normally, and will also decrease the efficiency of braking. and worst case get stuck and lock up the wheel or bend the disk.
>>
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>>1092751
and of course if i use spacers to adjust the contact area on the bottom this will happen on the top.
>>
>>1092751
You must not have a 365 caliper then because that uses the smaller B01s pad, as you say the G01a pad is for higher end brakes (my old XTs had them) and the M365 is a low end system.

>lower 1mm of the break pads has way less contact surface than the upper part, which will result in less wear, so the brake pads remain thicker there
How so? If the caliper was sitting too high on the disc then it could end up thicker at the top (not a huge issue) but I don't see how what you're saying could happen.

>and they chew into the section above the arms attachment point badly resulting in wear on the steel plating more significantly than the part that should be used for braking normally
Let's pretend the cooling fins weren't there and the pads where sitting too low. The pads are a relatively soft material compared to the disc, the part just above where the arms attach would wear down the pads just like the braking surface does and the pads would wear quite evenly. There's no way it would end up causing significant wear to the rotor.

>>1092752
As I said above, that's not really a huge issue. You lose some braking performance as there's less surface area applying force but it's not dangerous. However I'm pretty sure the braking track on those Shimano discs are going to be deep enough for any Shimano pads, it'd be retarded of them to make it otherwise.
>>
>>1092754
>However I'm pretty sure the braking track on those Shimano discs are going to be deep enough for any Shimano pads, it'd be retarded of them to make it otherwise.
sadly it appears so. i have overhang either up or down, up will cause uneven wear on the pad which i have to periodically correct or risk brake failure as the pads worn down, if i don't use spacers i put the risk of excessive wear on the disks.

i see your point about resin pads being soft compared to the steel, but i can see on my old pads where they bit into them how much they worn away.
>>
>>1092755
>up will cause uneven wear on the pad which i have to periodically correct or risk brake failure as the pads worn down
It's not going to cause a failure, just some lost braking performance and a bit faster pad wear (as it's spread over less area).

>if i don't use spacers i put the risk of excessive wear on the disks
On a regular disc it would've be an issue, but on those Ice Techs you risk damaging the aluminium fins.

>but i can see on my old pads where they bit into them how much they worn away.
If there was significant wear on your old discs they were either really old, your pads were contaminated with grit, or you ran the pads down to the backing. Just think about it, if a tiny lip of pad material was enough to wear through the arms of the rotor then the braking surface would last very long at all. In fact a lip won't even form as it'll be worn away by the arms.
>>
>>1092754
i measure the difference in the tracks on the old brakes the contact area appears to be 16mm, the ones on the new rotor seems to be only 15mm.
so there will be 1mm overhang either direction i can decide put in 1mm spacer and it's safe for rotor but less braking performance and regular sanding the pads. not put in and the wear on the rotor might be more sever than it should be.

i don't know which one to pick until i get my new brakes. i wanted them for christmas or something. unless i was really displeased with the braking performance in which case right next month.
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>>1092757
>It's not going to cause a failure
i mean if the unworn part of the pads touch and it causes sever brake fade. i know it shouldn't cause serious issues unless you know the front axle moves because of a jump and the top of the disk bites right into the rims.
>but on those Ice Techs you risk damaging the aluminium fins.
the aluminium fins look further down by 2mm from the overhanging pad they look quiet safe.
>In fact a lip won't even form as it'll be worn away by the arms.
i would really like that, i guess in a few weeks it shouldn't develop any serious issues aside from aesthetics.
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>>1092760
>i mean if the unworn part of the pads touch
You'll probably be replacing your pads before that happens (especially if you're getting new brakes soon), but even if it didn't happen the pads would just pivot and begin wearing at an angle.

>the aluminium fins look further down by 2mm from the overhanging pad they look quiet safe.
I'm not talking about just the fins specifically but the entire aluminium part. I've never seen Ice Tech rotors in person, is that aluminium part not level with the steel braking surface? If it's not then I guess having the pads too low is okay, as long as they clear the actual fins.
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>>1092762
>I'm not talking about just the fins specifically but the entire aluminium part. I've never seen Ice Tech rotors in person, is that aluminium part not level with the steel braking surface?
no the steel plating is over it i think it is exactly level to the aluminium core.
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>>1092763
well i worded that weird here is a pic
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>>1092765
and the other side is like that too
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>>1092748
can't belive the fucking thing came warped. well one of them anyways. top shelf disk an its not 5 microns true.
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>>1092818
Not all that surprising really, it's gonna bend much easier than a normal disc. On the plus side it should be easier to bend it back.
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>>1092821
yeah it was easy to true it way less effort
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>>1092363
Yes, just make sure this reduction on axle length won't bring the left crank too close to the frame and bang against it
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>>1092737
>>1092741
It's a "put parts on me and ride me", they're quite common
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i just ordered a rock shox reverb seatpost for my hardtail... it was -29% on chain reaction. serious buyers remorse incoming. anyone has experience with them?
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Is cyclocross a meme?

It just seems to be based around using a road bike on terrain you're not supposed to use it on. Where a mountainbike or hybrid would be faster
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>>1093234
You've pretty much nailed it. It's like a three-legged race, purposely handicapping yourself and seeing who's best at doing something the wrong way.
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>>1093234
actually if mtb would be faster people would ride mtb on cyclocross races don't you think? there is nothing stopping you from riding a full sus mtb in a cx race.

the thing is on certain specific terrain like i think grass they are the fastest partly because of the no suspension. if you mix roads in he race the mtb again will suck ass, but there will be parts of the course where a roadbike would simply not be able to pass which an mtb would take easily but then again at other parts the cx will leave you in the dirt.
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>>1093325
People do ride CX races on mountain bikes and have won. The thing is CX courses are tamed down so that you don't need full suspension (front may help, but it better be light), the areas that you have to dismount for put an emphasis on low weight, and the restrictions on bar and tyre width (500mm and 33mm respectively) make it so you won't gain as much on a flat bar bike with clearance for larger tyres.
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>>1093349
it would really depend on the ratio of woods and dirt vs asphalt and grass for the course if mtb is a valid option. if it's balanced it's all 50/50.
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Is there a good cheap bike computer? I don't want anything fancy, no phone apps either. Just want a little digital readout of distance traveled over time and speed, basic stuff.
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>>1093325
>there is nothing stopping you from riding a full sus mtb in a cx race.
Depends where you live, I don't think USA CX follows the UCI rules but in europe you'd be bound by them.

I think the biggest gain rather than suspension would be tyres <40mm wide for a lot of the shit they have to ride over.
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>>1093487
to my knowledge all of them are crap.
i'm trying to push my company into developing an entire new line of products. or create a startup with crowdfunding. it's not the computers that are the biggest problem it's the complete system and how it works that's so last century.
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it's late at night here, but my bike which i wouldn't mind riding again has brakes that are completely fucked, they barely do anything and just make a screeching sound, is it just the pads or something else maybe?

the bike is 20 years old and is in need of some love
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>>1093835
if you haven't replaced the pads in 20 years, then the compound may have gotten old and stiff, or they might be worn-down too far, or both. replacements are stupid cheap so go for it. the /n/ recommendation is Kool Stop salmon pads in the same shape as the old ones.

screeching could also be the angle the pad is hitting. search sheldon/youtube about "toeing in brakepads."

never a bad idea to clean the grime off the rim contact area, you'd be surprised how filthy even clean-looking ones are.

also, deadthread.

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>>1093288
>>1093288
>>1093288




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