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What did you do to your bike today?

>brushed and oiled chain (didn't degrease)
>checked chain wear
>adjusted brakes
>dusted and inspected frame
>>
Im 300 miles from home in Simi Valley and theres a high end bike shop on every corner it feels like. First time ever seeing bikes north of $1800... Was mind blown seeing them above $3000. Its like.... Why not get a YZ450 or CRF450R at that point
>>
I put on my new tires that finally arrived after like five months, Schwalbe Duranos 700x28c, wiped the chain with a clean rag, and went for a little ride. They felt pretty good. Century coming up this weekend.
>>
Need new road bike tires. I want omething with grip for criteriums. Advice? Just getting into road from MTB and I really know jack shit about the road tire scene.
>>
>>1121461
GP4000S II
>>
>>1121343
>What did you do to your bike today?
Brushed the dried mud/gunk off the frame and lubed the chain.
Really hate riding in rain.
>>
>>1121343
I masturbated near my bike and accidentally got some ejaculate on the chain, do I need to replace it?
>>
>>1121474
Rain's okay so long as the roads are clean, but if they're even slightly muddy it's awful. I've got mudguards on and it still coats my bike in dirt and mud.
>>
Looked at it in admiration
>>
What's a good spray to put on my bike frame to prep it for a wash? It's pretty dirty.
>>
>>1121499
Muc-off
>>
>>1121483
This >>1121508 got me thinking, Muc-off is Cum-off backwards.
>>
Should probably get new chain but its so hard to make it shorter and connect the tiny master link thing that i dont really want to. Maybe theres some special tool for that too that i dont know about..
>>
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>>1121509
you could even say it was made "ffo cum"
>>
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>>1121536
>>
>>1121536
I shortened a shimano chain. Those chains don't have master links at all, it's regular chain the whole way through. Skillful use of the chain breaker (be really careful to line up the pin and the chain) and you're good.
I recommend some needle nosed pliers to do fine adjustments to the chain as you're pushing the pin through so you can get it lined up just right.
>>
>>1121392
>order new tires start of season
>delivered end of season
please tell me the name of the shop that is this incompetent
>>
>>1121551
PBK
Though in all honesty the most likely culprit for the delay is my shitty local postal service
>>
Set my gravélo bike up tubeless

Next is my fatty and ordered narrow wide chainrings for both
>>
>>1121536
KMC master links are pretty easy to work with. I've disconnected them by hand even after riding on the chain.
>>
Bike now all ready for winter. Changed cables, fluids, cassette, chain, and tires. Will probably end up changing the 50 tooth chainring to a smaller one I have at some point because it's useless during winter.
>>
How does cold affect aluminum frames? Can they handle arctic temperatures like -40 F easily? I'm looking to trek from Alaska to Chile and will be heading out near the end of winter so it will get pretty cold at the beginning of the trip.
>>
>>1121570

http://collections.dartmouth.edu/arctica-beta/html/EA02b-02.html
>>
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>>1121574
THANK YOU SO MUCH!


>Tests and field use of aluminum and its alloyws indicate —that they are admirably suited for extreme-low-temperature service. >Tests made to subatmospheric temperatures indicate that the tensile, yield, and impact strengths of all aluminum alloys increase at extreme low temperatures.
>Aluminum alloys retain ductility at these temperatures, corrosion resistance
is enhanced, and there is no increase in brittleness.
My penis is fully erect.
>>
>>1121499
Try water. Just spray it, wait 3 minutes and then wash.
>>
>>1121570
>>1121574
>>1121583
>aluminum gets better as temps drop
now that is sexy
>>
just finished mounting some corsas with latex. Haven't taken it for a spin yet but it'll be my first time riding on latex and anything higher than 180tpi... I'm excited
>>
>>1121343
degreased and oiled chain. been riding some sandy trails and it was sounding crunchy
>>
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I repacked the hubs on my winter bike today - took about five minutes in total.

External grease ports are fabulous, I wish all hubs had them.
>>
>>1121343
I took my bike apart so I could drill a hole in the seatpost for my new dropper post. also cut the seatpost to my perfect height so I can run it balls deep. reassembled and ran the hose through my new hole. fingers crossed I dont break the frame this weekend. sure is nice having a reverb finally
>>
the tread on my front tire goes forward, but the tread on my rear tire goes backwards. will i be able to move?
>>
>>1121372
those aren't /n/ bikes, those are /sp/ and /asp/ bikes. you know, for racing and mountain riding.
>>
>>1122250
Doesn't that get dirt inside the hub?
>>
>>1123235
spring loaded ball bearings create a seal, used forever in vehicles
>>
rode it
>>
>>1123256
Without even wiping down the chain a bit or pumping up the tires?
>>
>>1123256
/n/'s version of the italian tune up
>>
Cleaned the drivetrain and wiped down frame of my hybrid.

Bought and put new tube and front tire on my old steel roadie.
>>
Regreased my bottom bracket
Regreased suspension pivots
regreased headset
regreased hubs
cleaned cassete
rebuilt my fork lowers
put a new rear shifter cable in, haven't adjusted it yet
tried to go tubeless on non tubeless wheels, didn't work
put lightweight tubes in put a little sealant in them (schraders valves ftw)
somewhat trued my wheels with a cable tie
ordered a new chain and quicklinks (3 because you can never have enough quicklinks)
ordered new gloves
ground down my bars to fit WTB padloc grips

I can't wait to go riding again
>>
>>1123594
>somewhat trued my wheels with a cable tie
explain pls
>>
>>1123595
I'm assuming this method for makeshift truing stand
>>
>>1123595


>>1123600
Anon is correct, cable tie around fork or chainstay, spin to find parts that are out true, tighten opposite spokes, usually in sets of three, slowly to pull the wheel into true.
>>
I washed my chain real well a few weeks back and then ran out of oil while oiling it, i figured it'd be fine with the amount i mamaged to get on it but today i discovered it has quite some rust on it, FUCK.
>>
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I need advice, /n/.
Bought my bike a bit over 6 weeks ago and ride it around 12 miles every day. I live in a very rainy area and my route has loads of construction, so the entire backside is covered in dirt now.
I have never really cleaned a bike or any of the mechanics in it. Its started making a strange squeak sound around the rear derailleur. I'm sure its just the chain that needs cleaning and oiling, but what else should I check for while I'm at it?
Any other general advice about general maintenance?
>>
>>1124019
Don't just clean your chain but your entire drivetrain. Get your solvent of choice and apply it with a toothbrush and wipe clean with rags. Clean the cassette, chainrings and rear derailleur jockey wheels. Your bike sounds like it's got a lot of dirt on it, and in my experience jockey wheels love to pick a lot of dirt up.
>>
>>1124019
At the very least, I would hose it off to keep mud from rusting the metal. Once a week soap it up and oil the chain
>>
>>1124026
>>1124027
Thanks for the tips, anons.

>Get your solvent of choice
Would WD-40 do?
>>
>>1124048
WD-40 will work but always oil the chain after cleaning. Brake cleaner is better if you have that laying around. Best would be a proper degreaser
>>
Went on a 20 minute ride to this dirt area behind the local park and I got TWO flat tires yesterday. Today I replaced the rear tube, since it seriously had like 50 thorns stuck to it. The front tire wasn't as bad.... I took tube out, filled with air and held in a bucket of water... Fucker had 8 holes in it. I figured out a way to put Slime in a Presta valve and now I'm about to go see if it's held up since my roommate has the key to the garage. Wish me luck, I really don't want to buy another tube, and I'm fine with having a tire that's 4oz. heavier until it gets another flat.
>>
So just how de-greased does a chain have to be? No matter how much dishwash soap & hot water I use, touches it turns my hands black as black. Do I need to bust out some gun cleaning solvent?
>>
>>1124098
dishwashing soap is pretty good at being a degreaser. just keep washing till it doesn't turn the water black anymore.

You don't need a perfectly clean chain just a well cleaned chain
>>
>>1124095
use the slime filled tube as the rear tire. It'd have more rotational inertia holding momentum better, even if it means reducing acceleration. At least you'd have less rotational mass in the tire that provides handling... or not and I'm just pulling some crazy pseudo science out of my ass but I'd understand not redoing the job if it holds air fine

>>1124098
as long as there is no grit you should be fine. Some will argue that completely degreasing a chain is bad for the rollers/pins because it's a little hard for lube to squeeze into the tighter parts of the chain
>>
>>1124098
That must be one filthy ass chain. Remove it and soak it in mineral spirit for a bit
>>
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>>1124098
>Do I need to bust out some gun cleaning solvent?
lel I've used Hoppe's No.9 on my chain before. It does a bretty good job and I love the smell of it
>>
>>1124098
You're not cleaning it enough. Use brushes. For bonus points get a chain scrubber. And next time, clean your chain more often.
>>
>>1124048
>solvent of choice
Personally I used kerosene, toothbrush and rags last time I did my chain. The kero is to help get the dirt dissolved, the toothbrush to apply the kero deeply and the rags to catch the dirt. If you use a solvent and don't wipe it with a rag or hose it then you're not actually removing dirt. (*disclaimer: kerosene is not soluble with water, do not hose your chain with water after using kerosene).
>>
Crashed it.

Random faggot spring rainstorm made the roads slippery and I went sideways like a moron.

Rear wheel is out of true, 2 loose spokes. both brake levers bent slightly and scratched.

My other bike, all my tools, and spare parts are in storage. So this poor old thing has been ridden hard all winter without any maintenance, and now this.

Can you forgive my sins, /n/?
>>
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Heat your chain to over 1000 freedom degrees to degrease.
>>
>>1125248
That looks like it would make an excellent tool when it's time for the people to rise up in rebellion and overthrow the 1%...
>>
>>1125250

You mean the 1% that pays nearly 50% of all federal income tax?

You sound like one of the 45% of people who pay no income tax, because you're nothing more than a burden on society.

You're poor because you're lazy. It's nobody's fault but your own.
>>
>>1125252
>make 90% of the money
>pay 50% of the tax
Hmm.

Although this doesn't mean that the 45% who don't pay tax aren't worthless.
>>
>>1124484
>So this poor old thing has been ridden hard all winter without any maintenance, and now this.
>Can you forgive my sins, /n/?
Only if you get her back on the road ASAP
>>
>>1125252
>>boards.4chan.org/pol/
>>
>>1121343
Bought a dynamo hub and lights for it.
>>
>>1121583
Don't forget the part about tires shattering in to pieces and lubricants failing at low temperatures.

I suggest using a 0W10 to 0W40 engine oil as lubricant when expoesed to verry low temperatures since it is desinged to lubricate at that temperature.
Also us new soft compound tires with a decent sieze.
>>
>>1125268

I want to whine about being poor but not hear any facts: the post
>>
one thing I never do: wash my bike with water or soap.
Never put water on your bike.
>>
>>1125361
Wash your fucking bike
>>
>>1125361
Its meant to get rained on. If it cant handle low pressure water, then throw your sissy premadonna shit away
>>
>>1125442
>>1125384
it's a full suspension mountain bike. I'm not washing it. It has performed flawlessly for 3 seasons now. Never touched water!
>>
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Recently got this bike.
>Removed broken derailer and other unnecessary bits
>Bought a chain that was too short
>Decided to shorten old chain
>Bought a chain tool
>Chain tool cross threaded itself
>Master link is rubbing on the cassette
I should stop shopping at Walmart for bike parts
>>
>>1125528
>Shopping at Walmart
RIP, I have a feeling you're the kind of person who can manage to even destroy a Park Tool made tool
>>
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>>1121343
Can I kill myself yet? I dared to try to fix the front derailleur and fucked up yet another time.

I don't have a stand so I'll just give up on maintenance altogether and become a full local bike shop cuck.

COME FUCK MY ANUS LBS OWNERS.
>>
>>1127639
u dont need a stand to do bike maintenence
>>
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I just looked at my brand new bike pics because I shipped it to my vacation destination in preparation for Christmas vacation. FUCk
>>
>>1121343
my chain is squeaky every time it rains or i ride thru puddles. SHould I switch to a wet lube? its only like once every two weeks is it worth it?
>>
>>1127648
>be me
>been saving money for new hardtail
>have 3/4 of the $
>brother steps in and pays the rest of it as a christmas present
>place order from company in Uk
>expect it to take 2-3 weeks to ship to usa
>arrives at door in 4 days
>now I sit until christmas looking at pictures he sends me
>fuck.jpeg
>>
>>1127652
>MTB
Sure must be hard being a faggot
>>
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>>1127655
Im a roadie too
>>
>>1127643
I did it with the bike upside down and it all aligned perfectly. The derailleur height and both angles were right. I even measured the inner cage distance to the chain at the innermost ring and the distance of the outer cage to the chain at the outermost ring and it was within the 1-2mm (a dime) at the closest point in both cases like the park tool tutorial advised. I got the shifting from ring-to-ring to one pedal stroke by adjusting the barrel afterwards. Then I put the bike up and went for a ride and it fucking rubbed at both at 1x2 and 3x7 and switching from the innermost ring to the middle one took 3+ strokes AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA.
>>
>>1127655

How young and insecure do you have to be to shit on other disciplines in the same sport?

I mostly ride road bikes, but if you've never even tried riding singletrack you are missing out on a lot of fun and crippling the development of your bike handling skills.
>>
>>1127656
>roadie
>that thing
>>
>>1127663
American steel race maching. You must ride a carbon specialized
>>
>>1127664
>maching
>>
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Tire patch day. Fuck, patching tires is a lot harder than I thought. Or maybe my rubber cement sucks? Any pointers? I only found the holes and marked them a pen. Im going to buy that 56 piece Slime kit on Amazon. Worst tube had 11 holes in it.... Went off trail at Marshall Canyon
>>
>>1127671
just dont patch tires. buy in bulk from ebay
>>
>>1127673
I went through these 4 last month, and decided to not throw them away
>>
>new rear tire after flat in January
>cleaned chain maybe two months ago

who here shitbike
>>
>>1127661
maybe cables? if u have two book cases or something put a broomstick in between them and rest the bike seat ontop of it.
>>
>>1127671
Cheap patches and cement sucks. Even if you buy the most expensive ones it's still much cheaper than new tubes.

But woah man how do you puncture so much? I would have quit cycling entirely if I had so many punctures. Go tubeless or just pour some tubeless sealant in the tube to prevent the punctures in the first place.

>>1127680
Not really shitbike, but I don't fix shit that isn't broken. Ride until something starts making noise or problems, then fix it. Chain was lubed many months ago on all of my bikes.
>>
didn't do anything today but i'm in the process of taking an old shitty 26 hybrid and turning it into my winter bike.
I overhauled all four hubs, because i figure regular maintainence is cheaper than shitting out a nice one with all the salt i'll be dealing with. I installed decent canti brakes with suntour command shifters, though i haven't started setting up the drivetrain. Any advice y'all have would be greatly appreciated
also I'm not entirely sure what my tire clearence is but what would you guys reccomend for a winter tire?
>>
>>1127661
>switching from the innermost ring to the middle one took 3+ strokes
Shift to the lowest gear, and then keep shifting your front shifter to its lowest point, then pull the cable taunt and rebolt it. It will have generated slack while the cables were was seating.
>>
>>1127703
Yeah it really sucks, its just how certain trails are. Goathead thorns. I literally went on a 10 minute ride and got both tires filled with thorns, but its cause I venture off the trail and mob over bushes n stuff. Is the 56 piece Slime kit on Amazon a quality one? The patch kit I have is from a ghetto 99 cent store. Ill get a park tool kit for my backpack
>>
Getting my first bike in a very long time. What’s the meme chain lube? Tools to clean and maintain a bike?
>>
>>1127780
If you're doing trails like that, go tubeless. Seriously, go tubeless. You can find countless videos of people rolling over nails and such and the tire is still inflated. The latex goop that you pour inside tubeless tires is pretty great .
>>
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>>1127789
For $20, you can't go wrong with a Topeak Hexus II. It's my take everywhere with me bike multi tool. My Hexus has seen me cycle through 3 different bikes and it's still my general purpose bike tool. No doubt others can vouch for the tool. There's better tools out there but the price to durability of this thing is solid.

Now chain lube is controversial here and you just opened a can of worms... but I believe in brush chain without degreasing, wipe grime, apply 80w-90 gear oil, then wipe excess. It gets black and greasy quick but it's cheap and it works.
>>
>>1127789
Track pump
Nice set of ball end metric allen keys (not bike specific)
grease (tube of wheel bearing grease from an automotive store is fine)

Self adhesive patch kit
Multitool (bike specific)
Spare tube
mini pump
tire levers

Bucket
Bottle of Kerosene
Simple green
Sponge
Rags
chain lube

If anything is carbon, a torque wrench
>>
Pump
Extra tubes
Multitool
Dish soap
Rags
Water
Bucket
Hydration pack
>>
>>1127934
Forgot Hoppes #9 gun oil for the chain. Also, automotive products is a billion dollar industry, everything that is "bike specific" is inferior, or exactly the same, and its all jacked up in price, when you consider a 55 gallon barrel of oil costs a few dozen dollars, but when a 4oz. bottle of some fancy label shit is $9.99 youre getting raped. Not that ten bucks is a lot, its just cyclists are weird about oil and grease for stuff that doesnt ever see extreme temperatures or force applied anywhere in the system.
>>
>>1127870
>>1127842
Thank you. The bike I’m looking at has a Thomson carbon seatpost... so a torque wrench or something like a Ritchey Torque key is a must?
>>
>>1123220

Some mountain bike tyres recommend this.

You want traction in one direction on the front for the best braking, and the other direction in the back to prevent wheel spin on muddy climbs.
>>
>>1121343

>Rear brake bled
>Rear brake pads replaced
>Cleaned and oiled chain (fuck that wax bullshit)
>Checked limits
>Checked tension
>Checked pressures
Did my best Tokyo Drift impression.
>>
>>1127842
>80w-90 gear oil
That shit's too thick man, no wonder you have a black chain two seconds later. At least thin it down with a little something. Or just get sewing machine oil which is dirt cheap
>>
>>1127969
A regular torque key will do, no need to get Ritchey brand. You should also get some carbon assembly paste
>>
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>>1127701
I didn't have bookshelves and the broomsticks here are weakish so I used an wooden chair I had lying around and everything went well. It was much easier to work on it now.

I think the drivetrain is working better than when I last sent the bike for maintenance, but maybe it's my pride talking.
>>
Is it normal to have to readjust the disk brake pads every time you reinsert the wheel?
>>
>>1128015
You shouldn't need to unless it's not seating in the same spot when you throw the wheel back on
>>
>>1128014
nice see u can fix anything u dont need special things
>>
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>>1127990
I'm ok with my healthy greasy black chain. I like the streaks my right pant leg receives and wear it with pride
>>
>>1128057
...just roll up your pants?
>>
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>>1128015
Nope. Tighten your caliper mounts more. My front tire comes off and on a few times a week. No more problems after getting it adjusted
>>
>>1128063
>>
>>1128111
>schraeder valve
beta as fuck
>>
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>>1128111
>>
>>1128128
whats wrong with it? its good to have if you want to use the air pumps at gas stations.
>>
Presta valves are the APPLE IPHONE of bike world
>>
>>1128155
>leaks more than presta at higher psi
>higher rotational weight
>larger hole = weaker wheel
>>
>>1128111
So you posted a picture of a person with shitty shoes, bad taste in socks, and reasonable pants.
Why hate the pants?
>>
>>1128178
Gay
Fag
Queer

Cars use shrader
>>
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I have a Scott SUB10 and the front wheel is a little wobbly. There's play in the hub, which is pic related, a Formula CL-51, but I'm not 100% sure if my hub has adjustable cones on it.

I read on Sheldon Brown that you have to disengage the locknut first to adjust the cone. I can only access one side of the hub, since the other has a disc brake attached. So I'm trying to do this:

1. Cone wrench on cone nut, box wrench on lock nut
2. Loosen lock nut
3. Adjust cone nut inward to reduce play
4. Tighten lock nut
5. Re-install wheel

However, I can't loosen the locknut. I really heaved on it, and it just doesn't want to budge. I'm afraid to break something. I also don't have a QR lever, even though it's a QR-skewer wheel; it's just an ordinary nut on both sides that you tighten to secure the wheel. Note that I'm not actually sure the exposed side is the one to tighten, I'm not sure how I would know which side to adjust.

Any help?
>>
>>1128445
Formula has the CL 51 listed as cup and cone.

You are doing it exactly right. You can adjust either side. But since the side you want to adjust seems to be super tight, chances are that the disc-side is the one that got loose.

I'd try to get the disc off and check. Otherwise you might only have a short time to enjoy your newly adjusted hub.

Don't forget to regrease it.
>>
>>1128460
I was hoping I wouldn't need to remove the disc, since it's a centerlock rotor, with internal splines. I guess I'll have to buy a tool to do that.
>>
Ok this is probably a stupid question, but what exactly needs to be lubed vs greased vs anti seize vs loctite? In general I was just gonna grease pedal threads, seatpost and lube chain/cassette
>>
>>1121343
What should I do everyday to my bike?
I have no idea how to maintain it correctly and I'm afraid I'll fuck something up so I do literally nothing to it.
>>
>>1128809
Every day? Inflate your tires. Too much maintenance is a bad thing. If something is well adjusted, 'servicing' it will only put wear on it. Less often though;

>get a bucket of soapy water
>wash bike with sponge/ rag
>especially the brake track on the rims (if rim brakes)

>suspend bike from stand/ ropes/ whatever, put some kerosene on a rag, run chain through rag. Let it dry. Put a drop of chain oil on each link, run the chain round a few times, let it dry, then run the chain through a dry rag to get off the excess (maybe monthly, or less often)

>buy a chain wear tool (cheap), check for chain stretch
>replace chain (kmc) when worn
>replace your cassette every few chains

>scrape crud off jockey wheels of derailer
>if they're rough, remove the chain (if you have a quicklink), the cage plate (note where everything goes), clean them in a saucer of kerosene, dry, and apply a tiny bit of grease inside the plates & on the pivot before reassembling. Don't leave excess grease or oil around your drivetrain because it will attract dirt and be counter productive

>shift to lowest gear
>pull rear derailer forward so you can remove the chain from the crank
>check crank spins smoothly, if not replace/ service bottom bracket

>grip the stem & the fork legs and check for play in the headset
>check headset spins smoothly
>if not, service headset

>check wheels spin smoothly with no lateral play
>if not, service hubs

>clean derailer springs/ pivots with a toothbrush and degreaser, apply a tiny bit of grease

>treat yourself to new cables (use a bike cable tool to cut them) every year or so

>replace brake pads when they wear down, adjust them when necessary.
>>
>>1128839
>inflate your tires every day
Only if you use latex inners.
Every week is more than enough. You lose like 10% pressure a week with standard butyl inner tubes.

My 'every ride' check is headset and brakes.
Squeeze the brake levers to check that they stop the wheels.
Holding the brake levers, rock the bike back and forward to check for play or looseness in the headset/steering column.
If you got steering and brakes you should be okay.

The rest of the stuff you said I check during my fortnightly cycle cleaning day.
>>
>>1125528
I had that same nightmare.
>remove chain to properly wash drivetrain
>the pin i used the chaintool on broke during ride
>the bike shop puts on a 7.9mm wide chain where i need a 5.85mm chain and i didn't even bother to check
>rub the gears all the way home
>have to wait a week for quicklinks to come because no shop has the thin ones.

Why is life so hard?
>>
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I can't set up my shifting /n/

I have an aluminum mountain bike with 8x3 speeds that has:
-a new rear cog
-a new chain
-a new rear derailleur

I cannot set it up so that I can shift freely through all the sprockets.

This is what happens:
The sprockets 1 to 3 shift perfectly. Then it skips the 4th sprocket and shifts to the 5th. The remaining gears shift inconsistently.

The High and Low screws are properly adjusted.

I started with barely zero cable tension and added more tension till I could shift from the first gear to the second gear and then the third gear.
If I adjust the barrel adjuster so that the 4th gear can be shifted on, it fucks up the shifting on the higher (smaller) gears.
If I adjust it so that the lower (bigger) gears shift fine, it fucks up the higher gears too.
It's like I can't find the sweet spot of the cable tension.

When the cable is loose, I can manually pass and stay on all the gears by pushing the derailleur with my hand.
I inspected the shifter and it seems to be fine.
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>>1128921
Sounds like your derailleur hanger is bent, or your shifters aren't compatible with your derailleur
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>>1128921
>You're not routing the cable on the bolt correctly, altering the pull ratio. I did this once, confused me for a long time. Similar symptoms to what you describe.
>your parts aren't compatible
>you didn't cut your outer cables with the right tool/ are re-using fucked cables/ did not open up the ends of the cable/ file them smooth. The cable somewhere is catching and acting like a clutch. Try unbolting the cable, holding it and going through each shift both ways, and feel for friction.
>the guide under your bottom bracket is catching the cable
>Your cables aren't seated somewhere
>your hanger is bent (DONT try and bend it by grapping the derailer)

Try and bear in mind that THIS is the fun part. Wrenching on stuff and getting frustrated. Learn to enjoy it.
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>>1124484
here. Put on a new chain and cassette, and tightened the brakes. It's much better.
Still needs the freehub taken off and cleaned, and BB regreased, but we're getting there.

>>1125264
>Only if you get her back on the road ASAP
Rode it every day since the crash, damage wasn't that bad
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>>1128921
It sounds like you didn't replace your shifters. Different shifters have different pull ratios, to be compatible with different derailleurs.
Check that they're compatible, and if they're not, found your problem.
I find it unlikely a new derailleur is bent, but you might as well recable anyway, since it makes shifting nicer.

There is another thing; and this happened to me; your rear wheel might not be sitting in the axle straight. Maybe it's a busted wheel, or really out of true. Your eyes are a good enough judge- if it looks straight and true just by eye then this is NOT the problem at all.
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>>1128791
Chain? Lube. Threads? Grease. Metal to metal contact? Grease. Carbon to metal contact? Fiber grip. Carbon to carbon contact? Fiber grip. No need for anti seize or loctite.
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Should the seat post on a MTB be greased? I adjust mine at least 6 times during a ride.
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>>1129404
the seatpost on any metal bike should be greased
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>>1121343
Regreased my hubs after almost a year of daily riding. Was supposed to go on a fun ride today and feel how smooth it is but things got in the way of that... I'm just itching to ride
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>>1129809
Sure hope you packed new bearings in there
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>>1129814
Nop :( I regreased them impulsively when I realized how long it's been and I don't have spare bearings on hand
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>>1129814
>>1129841
Don't listen to this guy; brand new ball bearings aren't necessary unless there is visible pitting on the bearings you have.
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>>1129853
>implying there wasn't
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I've put a decent amount of miles on my bike and have been a dummy and only oiled it a few times. Now the gears are all crunchy and I feel horrible and want to fix it and treat my bike better.

Where do I start? Should I take it apart and clean and oil everything and put it back together, or just go ahead and get a whole new gear cluster (if that's what I need to replace, and if that's the right phrase for exactly what I'm trying to fix)

It's a 21 speed 90's Gary Fisher Aquila mountain bike, I can post pics later
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>>1129876
buy a 7 speed kmc chain & a chain tool
Buy some kerosene and a tub of grease (i use wheel bearing from an auto parts store)
determine if you have a cassette or a freewheel
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
Buy a freewheel tool (freewheel), or a shimano cassette tool & a chainwhip (cassette). Both will also need a large adjustable spanner to remove.
Wear on the cassette/freewheel should be apparent by 'shark toothed' points and by comparing each cog on the cassette (the more used ones will look different if the cogset is worn)
Remove your old chain with the chain tool
Remove your cassette/ freewheel & clean it with kerosene, or replace it.
Clean your chainrings with kerosene
Remove your jockey wheels on the rear derailer, (keeping note of were everything goes), clean them with kerosene, and reassemble with a very small amount of grease on the pivots & threads (excess will draw in dirt)
Clean the springs & pivots on the derailers and very lightly grease the springs
Replace cassette/ freewheel
Measure chain, remove links with chain tool, thread it through drivetrain, and connect quick link
adjust rear derailer

You should also check your bottom bracket bearing (is the crank smooth with the chain off), your wheel bearings, and re-cable the bike (buy new inners & outers, and a bike cable tool to cut them, have a file to finish the cable housing, and an awl to open up the ends of the housing)
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>>1129876
also ghetto a way to suspend the rear wheel, so you can pedal, and shift, to adjust the gears, or buy a bike stand. It's easy to make something, and hanging the bike with ropes works well too.
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Help /n/

I'm trying to remove the freehub on my gf's bike to see if it's salvageable. It takes a 12mm allen key but the short arm doesn't quite reach the freehub bolt. So I have to insert the long arm, leaving only the short arm for leverage.

I can't find a 12mm allen key with longer arms and I don't have a vice. Any ideas? Am I going to have to buy some pipe for a cheater bar?
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>>1131308
got some spare handlebars lying around?
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>>1131308
you got pliers or a crescent wrench on hand? I highly don't recommend what I'm about to recommend you but in a pinch it'll work but be careful to keep everything aligned. A small pipe would be ideal outside of long allen keys
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>>1131485
Do this but with pic related instead of a crescent wrench
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>>1131485
Sounds like a great way to loose an eye.
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>>1127639
just turn the bike upside down like every non autist does if they need to fix something on their bike.
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>>1131308
For freehub bolts I use hex sockets. Mine is an impact set, but cheap harbor freight / princess auto ones will do.
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>>1131492
Not him, but it you think that's dangerous, you are an idiot.
I've used that method multiple times and it just works.
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>>1131460
>>1131485
>>1131487
Thanks for the suggestions. Got no spare handlebars. Tried the wrench idea, but won't work as the flat parts of the hex aren't in the correct plane.

Ended up buying pic related which will hopefully give me enough leverage.
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>>1132401
>>1131674
Also thanks
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>>1121343
Not for me, but I ordered a set of pic-reladeds for my dad's old bike to surprise him on christmas.
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>Tfw my dad own a fucking racing carbon mtb
>He only rarely uses it on weekends to cruise the woods
>Came back home for a week as I didn't had finals
>Tried to ride one day
>Rear derailer tension sprocket locks up
>Had to walk back home after 1km
>It had old grease and all sort of mud and dirt clogging it up
>MFW he didn't cleaned it in OVER A YEAR
>Pic related is me thinking about suicide after seeing how he treats his bike
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Cut open the battery pack for one of my headlights since the runtime is maybe 1/6 what it should be. I tried a heat gun first but the glue wouldn't budge. I managed to dremel it apart surprisingly cleanly without nicking anything inside. Its a fairly straight forward bundle of 4 18650 cells with an external protection circuit. The trick is getting tabs or wires attached to replacement cells. That is usually done with a spot welder since soldering batteries isn't recommended.

There is a shop in town that rebuilds battery packs. I might use them if they carry decent replacement cells. I want to use 3400 mah Panasonic cells which would give me a big runtime boost over the initial capacity of the original 2200 mah cells.
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>>1134332
you're really just fucking around and playing games until you get a dynamo system
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>>1134360
Its unlikely I'd ever get a dynamo for all my bikes. And even if I did a helmet light is almost a necessity for completely dark twisting paths where you might encounter stealth pedestrians. After fireworks this year they were popping up everywhere for the first several km of my return trip.
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>>1134332
Local shop wanted twice for cells than I could get them from amazon with labor on top of that. So I ordered the cells to do it myself. Today I did a test rebuild with some cells I salvaged from a dead laptop. I need to do a few things slightly different to get everything to fit back in the case better. Ideally I should track get some flat nickel battery tabs to use instead of thicker copper wire. But I think most of the amazon sellers ship it out of china which is slow.

Last ride I did with the pack I got 48 min at 500 lumen before it fell back to low power mode. Tonight with salvaged cells it went 1.5 hours at 500 lumen and another 40 minutes at 1000 lumen and still didn't go into low power mode.
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>>1121343
I have a 3x crank that has an issue with the chain slipping on the middle chainring. Brand new chain, nearly new cassette, nearly new chainrings. It only slips when I'm pedaling hard. Anything I could try checking?
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>>1136497
There's usually a barrel adjuster for the front derailer. Turn it one way. Did it get worse? Then turn it the other way. Turn until fixed
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>wash chain
>speed goes up 6km/h

lol, my chainring is starting to wear with 4 thousand ks, its thats too low? im always putting the power down
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>>1136533
way too low. Do you have a chain wear tool, and do you check your chain?

A chain should get 2-3 thousand km
3ish chains to a cassette
3ish cassettes to your chainrings

If you don't change out the chain when it's worn, your rings will wear a lot faster. Crosschaining and riding a dirty chain also speeds wear up a lot.
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Hey /n/, it's been a really long time since I last used my bike, but recently I felt like getting it out of my basement and start riding again.
The problem is, the bike was sitting in my basement for a really, really long time (at least 6 years now) without any maintenance.

Is there any hope it's still usable and safe to ride, or should I just save up a bit and buy a cheap new one?
I don't know anything about maintenance, but I could probably manage a basic one with the help of youtube guides.
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I added air to my front tire before going for a ride.
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>>1136614
well i mean you could ride it up and down the block to see? Any cable damage, rubbing or faulty shifting?
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>>1136614
>should I just save up a bit and buy a cheap new one?
This is never the correct way to treat your baiku. Air up the tires, throw some oil on the chain, check the brakes and steering before riding. Always run your ABCs preride check.

Air
Brakes
Chain
steering

They're not like aut/o/s where sitting around for extend periods of time will cause gaskets to leak and seals to crack. Even neglected bikes will outlast you and I
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>>1136619
Thanks, I'll do just that. Hopefully I can bring him back to life.

>>1136616
>Any cable damage, rubbing or faulty shifting?
Nothing noticeable for me, aside from slightly flat tires. But then again, it's been ages since I last rode a bike so I don't have a really good point of comparison. I'll get some oil and try it out on a distance longer than just a few meters.
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Been working on the Colnago I bought last week for the past few days. Completely stripped the frame, meticulously cleaned and lubricated all parts. Polished the fork, and refreshed the headset. Now to build it back up again!
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>>1136654
Looking forward to it
Who's the signature from? I can't make it out
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>>1136657
Ernesto Colnago, they put the signature on most of their frames.
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>>1136660
>>1136654
hnnnnnggggggg god i wish i was you right now
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>>1136661
I'm excited, it's been a fun process. Going to be replacing the stupid ergo bars and stem fairly soon, but other than that the spec on the bike is ace. Luckily I'm moving to a flatter area in the next few months, so a trad crankset won't be an issue.
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I´m trying to dissassemble what seems to be a suntour XCR suspension fork, but I can´t pull it apart.
Does anyone have suggestions ?

(already unscrewed the 10mm nuts)
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>>1136685
Was rusted in place, car jack helped.
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Rebuilding an old Peugeot PX-10. It has a french threaded crankset (23.35mm vs 22mm). I can't find anyone with the proper crank extractor in my town and I don't want to pay $55 for one on eBay.

Anyone know how to remove a crankset without using an extractor without damaging anything?
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>>1136769
Sometimes it is enough to loosen the screws and pedal hard.
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>>1127678
consider getting some of that anti-puncture tape that goes between tire and tube.
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>>1127842
You want grinding/polishing wheels to be black and greasy, not your drivetrain.
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>>1129876
Get a new chain, firstly. Chances are you haven't checked wear.
Secondly, clean your cogs. Use some degreaser and some brushes and some warm soapy water to brush the grime and dirt off and ideally leave in the sun to dry. Might be hard this time of year.
Clean the rear derailleur with the same method. Brushes and degreaser.

When it's dry, relube every part that moves. All the pivots on the derailleurs, every link in the chain (brand new chains come with grease so skip this for new chains).

Then maintain your bike. Clean the drivetrain every fortnight or so. I use a park tool chain scrubber since it makes life much, much easier. Run my chain through it for a few minutes and it's sparkly clean. Rinse it with water, then run a dry cloth or paper towels over it to get water out. Then lube it.
You can find plenty of guides online on how to clean and maintain your drivetrain, and you don't need kerosene- biodegradable degreaser is fine.
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>>1136614
If it was good when it was put in the basement it's still good now. It just needs a little freshening, and a general check of parts + safety.

The most important thing to check is the brakepads. Replace those. Old ones tend to get really hard and you lose stopping power. Not good.
Tires are another thing that might need replacing, check them carefully for cracks and signs of aging. They won't handle high pressures if they're brittle due to age, or got tears or cuts in them either. Check before inflating tires.

You'll want to check general wear and tear- take a look at the chainrings and rear cassette. compare them with pictures of new chainring and cassette teeth. They should be fine though.

The chain needs checking with a wear checker. When you're buying a chain wear indicator, get a new chain while you're at it. You might as well.

All the metal and greasy bits should be just fine. It's worth giving them a clean and relube to get them nice and fresh, and going over the nuts and bolts on the bike just to make sure there's nothing super obviously loose. (don't overtighten shit)

Do a safety check before the ride. Brakes, steering. you really need those two systems working, for hopefully obvious reasons.
Your tire explodes, or your shifting sucks and you just slow down and stop, but no brakes and you get fucked.
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Just wondering. Do any of you also keep rough track of your distance driven in excel. It is quite nice to see my progress that way and to compere to previous years.
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>>1136790
No, at least not my commutes or shorter rides.
But I do use Strava on most longer trips.
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>>1136790
I use strava to keep track of anything over a mile. Good to have a mileage on my bike.
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>>1136693
I cleaned it up with chrome polish, how fucked is it?
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>>1136818
Consider replacing the fork
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>>1136818
>>1136819
This.
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>>1136819
What budget forks do you suggest for a 27,5" hardtail with hydraulic discs and a lighweight rider?
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>>1136821
A suntour
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are the chinese made chain wear indicator tools on ebay any good? looking at ones that are £1 shipped but don't want to buy crap that isn't accurate. any particular model recommended?
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>>1136825
I have a cheap silverstone one. Silverstone stuff has a reputation for not being particularly durable, but a chain wear indicator doesn't need that. It's accurate enough. I replace my chain on 0.75 since chains are £10.
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>>1136826
do you mean silverline? looks like a lot of the chinese ones, could just be a reband with a 30%+ mark up.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Portable-Bicycle-Bike-Chain-Wear-Indicator-Tool-Chain-Gauge-Repair-Checker-uk/302497098121?hash=item466e3b6989:g:Zu8AAOSwzaJX~yPh
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>>1136823
They have quite a range of different ones.
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Wtf is wrong with using a ruler or tape measure on a chain? Arent they all supposed to be exactly 12" on the dot? Are cyclists retarded or something?
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>>1136787
Thanks for the tips, I'll check these tomorrow.
If I remember correctly, there should be a small shop with bike parts nearby, so I'll go visit them after I'm done with the checkup you and the other anon recommended.
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>>1136844
maybe i don't want to fuck up my ruler or tape measure with grease?
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>>1136858
Maybe you should clean ypur filthy chain and you dont even have to touch it to measure you butt fucking roadie
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>>1136773
this will deform the taper
>>1136769
maybe a gear puller?
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>>1136829
Yeah silverline. It works. It's not high quality but for a chain wear indicator all you need is that it's reasonable.
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>>1136871
I measure my chain every time I clean it. I mean why not?
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I've never really done maintenance outside of airing up the tires, but I recently got a nicer bike and want to make all the components last. Is there a general guide for this anywhere? Or is it just clean and lube the chain every week? also can I blast my derailleur/cassette/frame with water after a muddy ride to clean or will there be issues with rust or something?
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>>1137082
Yes there are guides online. The short of it is that you should regularly clean the drivetrain.

Spraying it with water won't actually do anything, since it's not the mud you want to get out of the moving parts, it's the gritty lubricant.

I recommend a chain scrubbing device for convenience. Generally it's:
1. Degrease and scrub
2. Dry/leave to dry
3. Relube

Get a chain wear indicator and replace the chain when it shows wear. New chains wear down expensive gears much slower than worn ones.

As for the frame, you don't have to clean that, strictly, but you might as well. Shave those grams off.
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>>1137082
Don't spray it with water, you're likely to force grease out of the bearings. Get a bucket of water with a bit of soap in it and use sponges/ rags. You definitely want to clean mud off your bike esp the drivetrain if you get it dirty, dunno wtf above is on about. He's right about the chain though.

Every week for lubing is too often, biweekly at most. I just degrease with some kerosene and a rag.
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cleaned the top (smooth) part of my mountain bike fork, but wiped off some of the grease. Should I relubricate or is this not really necessary?
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>>1121536
Use a piece of "coat hanger wire", probably smaller than the one in the pic, as a "third hand", then use your fingers to undo the quick link.

>>1122203
It feels great.

I gotta have a bell on my bike, mostly because of joggers wearing headphones.

Occasionally, over rough pavement, or if the harmonics were just right, my bell would ring itself. It's the kind with a little springy hammer.

After I put latex tubes in it, I've never had an accidental ring.

I did have one of the tubes, Vredestein, spontaneously fail. I was hanging out with my riding group in a friend's garage, my bike was hanging from a rafter, and psssssssssss..... One of the seams came undone. Still worth it though.

>>1124417
>get a chain scrubber
Just use two toothbrushes, taped "face to face"/"bristles to bristles"... then use the money you saved to buy a "parts washer", like this one:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/81526/10002/-1

You can run whatever solvent you want in it, from lacquer thinner to Simple Green.

>>1127639
I always advise people to hook the nose of their saddle over a tree limb, or low rafter.

>>1128057
Still can't fathom how people ever get stains/chainring stamps on their pants or legs, in the normal course of a ride. And no, you don't have to roll up your pants leg like a turd.

>>1128184
Car tires a quite different from bike tires. Do us all a favor and go fill your car tires up to 90psi.

>>1129400
Dissimilar metals, esp those that are in contact for extended periods, or not removed/adjusted often, need antiseize. Think: seatposts, bottle cage bolts, bottom bracket threads.

Google "Loctite anti seize stick". They're like $6 and last for years.
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>>1138608
>Coat hang wire chain tool
Neato, gonna go make one of these.

>Still can't fathom how people ever get stains/chainring stamps on their pants or legs
Dunno how, but this happens to me all the time.

>Antiseize
Never seen an *stick* of anti-seize before. I just use the same bottle of Permatex 80078 that I use for everything else I work on in my garage. It's the same aluminum-based antiseize as the Park Tool stuff, except 1/10th the cost without the PT markup.
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>>1138608
>then use the money you saved to buy a "parts washer

>don't spend $15 on a chain scrubber
>spend $30 on a parts washer
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>>1138645
That's just for the bin. It'll be twice that, easily, once you put a couple gallons of fluid in it.

But then again, you're paying for something useful, instead of a mediocre, plastic, one trick pony.
>>
Why are cycling so broke if they save so much $ by cycling?
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>>1124098
just put the chain in a jar of gasoline and shake
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>>1138721
We spend what we save on drugs and bike parts
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>>1138721
It is a hobby that has an application in life.

I dropped ~$550 on gear between good lights, winter apparel, and all the commuting goodies. Bus passes are ~$100/month. 4 months into commuting I am still short vs the bus. I should come out ahead by the end of winter. I plan on spending a bit on tools and parts come spring.
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>>1138721
many people buy $1000+ new bikes on a regular basis and are constantly buying new clothes and shoes as well
many other people ride beat to fuck old steel bikes and spend all their extra money on coke and craft beer
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>>1138537
Not necessary, they should be greased internally. Continue to keep the fork stanchions clean.
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>>1138608
>latex tubes
it's been almost 2 months now since I've switched. I can't go back to regular butyl. I had one ride where I ate a nasty pothole and pinch flatted both front/rears. I switched to my backup butyl set in my backpack and felt a noticeable difference in suppleness. As soon as I got home I had to patch my latex tubes and throw them back on the bike. The speed difference isn't that big but suppleness is, it's unreal. It's worth airing up everyday, they lose like 1psi per hour so after a whole day they're down 20+psi
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I finally got a repair stand so I adjusted my rear derailleur. Couldn't use half my gears.
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>>1138893
Well done
>>
This week in maintainance:

used MTB I got for free:
>regreased head bearings
>bleeding both brakes
>replacing front pads
>bend RD hanger back
>serviced fork
>changed tires
>new FD cable
>cleaned and lubed chain
>cleand and lubed RD
>new cassette

Roadbike:
>cleaned and regreased head bearings
>new correctly siezed cranks
>changed worn out tires to GP-4000 S-II
>rised saddle about 10mm
>dropped bars and slammed stem
>adjusted FD and RD
>adjusted brakes
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I used a length of soldering lead as a derailleur mounting bolt spacer
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>>1121547
make sure it doesn't have HGX printed on the link plates, these need a special joining pin or the chain will snap.
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Finally got around to correctly adjusting my disk brakes lads. So fast now.
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Is candle wax (parrafin) mixed with 5W40 oil a useable chain lube?
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>>1138862
I'm sold. Will report back
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>>1141446
probably not, that will cake the drivetrain in shite in 5 minutes. Get some dry chain lube and follow Sheldon. I use Muc-Off C3 Dry Ceramic Lube
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>>1141457
Isn´t dry lube kind of sensible to rain?
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>>1141446
Dry lube + wax + lubbing regularly
or
Wet lube + cleaning regularly

Don't quote me on it but I think wet lube + wax is a dirty mess waiting to happen if the wax will stick to a wet lubed chain in the first place
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>>1141461
I´m not talking about applying both seperate, but mixing both while the wax is liquid with aproximately 80% wax and 20% oil to keep it from getting liquid under normal conditions.
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>>1141466
I don't see why it wouldn't work if the two will homogenate. Some people wax their chain without lube. After a quick google search, I see people combining the two as a rustproofing procedure cars, I don't see why it wouldn't hurt to try. You might even figure something out and share it with us. I use gear oil which isn't the best option but it works. Really, oiling a chain is simple but personal. You could even use cooking oil in a pinch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNIcVmE0w4w
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>>1141478
>I use gear oil which isn't the best option but it works
I use it as well, just some cheapshit 80W oil.
Problem is, it catches dirt like crazy during winter.
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>>1141480
That it does, we use the same oil weight. Since it's gotten so cold I've been thinking of using something lighter like the 5w-40 oil you mentioned. My streets are salted beyond hell and automotive oils does a great job preventing rust but the crud buildup is a mess.
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>>1141483
I now waxed my chain with a somewhat solid mixture of 5W40 and wax.
It coats all surfaces of the chain and is slightly smearable.
If rust is a issue with that, it will show on my bike since I can´t park it inside and it rains all the time where I live.

Once I broke the chain loose, it was moving verry smooth, even more than when it was new.
When I´m done cleaning the drivetrain, I`ll report how much dirt it catches.
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Should I get Swissstop BXP or Koolstop Salmons to replace the pads over winter in the UK- it's a commuter bike for riding around London, so performance in the wet is critical
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>>1121343
IDEGAF
>>
The gfs bike had an insane amount of crud buildup on all gears, idle wheels, and chain was disgusting. Its more mental than anything. She didnt notice a difference, after I spent like 2 hours detailing everything, with the chain soaking in hoppes #9 overnight.
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>>1141493
I have actualy seen worse chains than that.
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>>1141495
That's women for yah
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>>1141498
I damn well hope so. As a work bike the external appearances mean shit. Otoh the hub needs lube.
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>>1141498
Me too, but were unusuable. If that guy stops riding that bike, the inner rings will seize.

NOW YOU HAVE TO RIDE
>>
>>1141495
I've never had a gf who appreciated the work that goes into maintaining or building a bike for them.

"I saved you $500"
> But it's not vintage
"Electra bikes are not vintage"
>But it's pretty
"Honey, you have to shift"
> I don't like shifting
"Please don't ride your road bike with platform heels"
> It's fine I did it last week
> :: Crashes immediately ::
>>
>>1141503
The rust indicates a lack of lubrication, wich means the chain ran dry and therefore wears rapidly.
>>1141506
>that friction on the chainring and sprockets
>>
>>1141508
You lube your faceplates. Good for you.
>>
>>1141513
A thin layer of oil or other lubricant should be on the surface of the faceplate, since it also rubs on the FD when shifting and rubs on other plates when the chain is flexing around a sprocket.
>>
>>1141515
No FD in an IGH chum. My chain line is constant as the North Star.
>>
>>1141520
Your chain still flexes around sprockets and the plates still rub to each other due to that.
>>
>>1141523
Sprockets and rings wear to failure along the chain line as the pins and rollers wear elongating the pitch. Wear across the line is not relevant unless you're using teeth as guides for derailment
>>
>>1141480
Chain wax guy here again, I rode my bike a bit after I waxed the chain.
It is still clean as fuck, much better than with gear oil.
>>
>>1141708
I'm keen on dry lube
https://www.cyclingabout.com/best-chain-lube-touring-bikes/
>>
>>1141715
The issue is that they only tested solvent based wax lube, not melted wax.

Melted wax gets better into the small parts and gets there in a larger amount.
>>
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I have a mountain bike that I bought from the store. Spent $300 on it and the crank has always clicked and skipped. Took it back 4 times and they said they replaced the crank on the last time. Same exact problem. Took it to another bike shop and they said it just needs to be tightened. 2 days after repair, it clicks and skips again.

Let's assume the crank is NOT new, and hasn't been replaced like mentioned. How do I fix this? Do I just have to buy a new crank? What should I get to make sure I never have to touch the damn thing again?

Let's assume the crank WAS replaced. What could be causing this? Is it a bad chassis?
>>
Sanded the glaze off my disc brake pads in hopes that it would remedy the dog-whistle sound they've been making; It did not.
>>
>>1141754
replace bottom bracket and bearings
>>
>>1141717
Does melted wax last longer?
>>
>>1141754
stop throwing good money after bad. return that shitty bike and buy a better one with some named components.
>>
>>1141787
Can't do that. Would you recommend a named component that would fix the crank and bearings like >>1141774 said?
>>
>>1141754
Lots of things can cause a clicking noise
>loose chainring bolts
>improperly adjusted shifters
>pitted bearings/cones
>stiff chain link
>tiny crack somewhere on the frame
>lack of grease on a clamp
And lots of things can cause skipping
>worn chain/cogs
>improperly adjusted shifters (again)
>worn out freehub body
>bent teeth
And I'm sure I forgot tons of other things so yeah.. good luck.
>>
>>1141754
Does it click/skip on the same pedal location every revolution or is it random?
>>
>>1121372
>Was mind blown seeing them above $3000. Its like.... Why not get a YZ450 or CRF450R at that point
most of those people are probably quite happy with their 911s when they want to go fast
>>
>>1141754
would help to atleast say what kind of crank/ bb you're dealing with
try gripping the crank arm against your chainstay hard and see if it clicks then. then you can say for certain that the clicking is the bb or the crank not being tight enough.
>>
>>1141807
The clicking noise is specifically the crank. Coming from the crank housing/crank assembly itself. I unfortunately don't know enough about that inner working to say any more.

The chain doesn't skip at all.

>>1141830
It is periodic. Like, I'll pedal for a couple seconds, then it skips and clicks. Then it will be fine for 4 or 5 revolutions, then again.

>>1141845
Don't know enough about what you're asking me to post. It is just a regular crank and pedal assembly from a store. The mountain bike is a Mongoose. I'll google the assembly for what you are saying and give that a shot. But the assembly was tightened several times by people who know more about this than I do.

Can I get recommended a good part that I can install that will prevent me from having this issue in the future? R4007B is the Mongoose model number.
>>
>>1141887
>R4007B
LODON
L
O
N
DO
N
>>
Replaced RD cable and needed to adjust rear brake on fat bike.
>go to turn adjustment dial for non-fixed pad on BB7
>won't move
>ruh-oh
Just made the adjustment using the cable instead. I was in a cramped space and couldn't get a good grip on the adjuster so I'll worry about it some other time.
>>
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>>1141887
Is this the crankset? I've never seen anything like this tbqh m'lady
>>
>>1141887
Since it doesn't happen every cycle but every 4 or 5 cycles, you might want adjust your derailleurs, check your rear wheel hubs for play, and look for any damage on the cassette. I'm not saying to rule out the crank but many crank problems happens every cycle.

Another question though, does this happen all the time regardless of how hard you pedal or only when you apply heavy force? Does it still happen when you pedal gently?
>>
>>1141908
It happens no matter how light I pedal. However, If I get up and go, or if I'm in a higher gear, it skips hard and sometimes I lose the chain. So maybe you are right and it is the wheel hub or the derailer.
>>
>>1141893
Really? I see those on all the store brand bikes.
>>
Rebuilt my new MKS Urban Platform. They had an unacceptable amount of play OOTB; clearly assembled by monkeys.
>>
>>1141781
>Does melted wax last longer?
I have no idea so far, I have not even ridden 100 km so far since we had a storm where I live.
But I assume it lasts longer than solvent based wax lubricants since there is more wax in the rollers after boiling the chain in molten wax.
Also it cleans out the dirt while the chain is submerged in wax.
>>
>>1141916
Yeah, I'd most likely go with adjusting the derailleurs first. If it was a bearing issue, it'd be more load dependent. If it was a cassette issue, the problem would only happen at certain gears. At least, this is coming from limited diagnosing and experience. Still, don't rule out any other drivetrain issues and inspect it all. Check cranks and wheel hubs for play, make sure chainring bolts are torqued, check chain wear, no damage on cassette/chainring, calibrate derailleurs, etc.

Drivetrain issues are weird, what could sound and feel like the crank could stem from anywhere in the drivetrain power flow. It's like that because the drivetrain is under high tension, transferring clicks and sounds anywhere.
>>
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>>1121372
>Why not get a YZ450 or CRF450R at that point
Because I'm not a fucking faggot.
>>
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>>1142296
No you actually are a faggot

You would pay more than $3,000 for a bicycle when dirt bikes and street bikes that get Prius levels of fuel economy and 0-60 times of Corvettes don't interest you?
>>
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>>1142371
>>
Just changed all 4 of my brake pads, realising that the rear brake shoes had been put on the wrong sides by the previous owner and I hadn't noticed. They were so worn I had to tighten all the barrel adjusters and take up some more slack in the cable using the screw on the side of the brake.

I also changed the rear tyre which had a hole in it, and slightly adjusted my mudguards so they are less wobbyly going over bumps and won't hit the tyre

Next jobs:
>replace the chain
>Buy + replace front tyre with a brand/tyre that I've heard of
>Redo bar tape
>Check the wheel spoke tension/true them - I've never done this before so may get someone to help

Feels good to do this shit
>>
>>1142371
>gas
>>
>>1142855
Hell yeah its fun.

What do you guys do about bike locks and scratch prevention?

Anyone DIY chainstay protector?
>>
>>1127703
i really leave my shit alone until it's time to repair, as well. i ride it and clean it maybe once a week with dust brush, frame that is. lubed chained with heavy brushing only before the summer.
>>
>get powermeter
>decide to replace my pressfit BB before putting the new cranks on
>Wheels Mfg Ceramic
>first ride this afternoon
>Still creaks under high load

Fuck pressfit BBs man.
>>
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Not exactly work done to my bike but I rigged up this head lamp into a helmet light by cutting the top strap and securing it with paracord. I'm pretty proud of how well it works
>6061 AL
>18650 li-ion rechargeable
>6 modes
>low 12lm, medium 66lm, high 210lm, turbo 550lm, firefly 0.3lm, SOS
>with 2600mah battery run times = low 4 days, medium 12 hrs, high 2.5 hrs, turbo 1.5hrs, firefly 45 days
>ipx7
>easily removable to use as hand torch
>$20 for this version, $30 for 1000lm on amazon
>>
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Is this tire safe for light to moderate use or, should I replace it immediately?
>>
>>1143689
You'll be alright as long as the threads itself are good.
>>
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Been working on >>1142286

I took apart pretty much the whole drive train. The previous owner obviously never maintained it at all. There was this black gritty sludge all through the rear derailleur and cassette.

I also swapped the saddle and tweaked a few things
>>
>>1141453
Status report? I'm thinking of upgrading
>>
>>1143689

TIRE POLICE! ON THE GROUND, NOW!
>>
>>1136796
>strava
>centralized social network to track mileage
Imagine being this retarded.
>>
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>getting a mech back together after the overhaul.




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