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Bike Question General
Previous thread: >>1147937

I just tried to convert my OTS beater -whose rear derailleur recently broke- into a single gear, and the result has been a fucking disaster. The moment you move the pedals backwards the chain begins slipping out of the chaining. Any suggestions on how to proceed from here?
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>>1153473
Sounds like your chainline isn't straight. As it's presumably has a freewheel and not a freewheel you can't space out the rear cog (I'm going to assume you're reusing the old freewheel and just keep the chain on the desired cog) so you'll instead have to move the chainring over with some chainring bolt spacers.

Alternatively if the chainline isn't too far out of line a chain guide may keep the chain in place. You could go with either one that mounts where the derailer did (will be noisier) or one that mounts at the bottom bracket (may not be an option on such an old bike).
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>>1153483
Yep, it looks like you hit the nail on the head. For the time being I'll see if there are any combinations I can pull off as it is, hopefully with the 52.
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can someone help me pick out a good bike? I don't know anything about them
>will use it for errands, maybe 5~ mile trips or a little more
>will ride mostly on roads but occasionally over thorny/bumpy dirt paths
>Idc about speed too much
>as cheap as possible while still getting a decent quality bike. Idk what the regular price ranges are so I'll let you interpret that
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>>1153498
Kek at pic

i got one of those blue chain cleaner things on Wish app. Now what do? Park Tool video and wannabe pro cyclist videos show stupid "proprietary bike chain degreaser solvants" used. Fuck that nonsense, what is wrong with using dish soap and hot water and then letting it dry and then lube 'er up?
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>>1153502
~$150-$200 should be plenty to get something decent on the craigslists. Post your local the craigslists
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>>1153503
kerosene
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>>1153504
I don't even know what to be looking for though
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>>1153507
>>1153502
Pick out some options from craigslist or gumtree and post in the bike buying thread (>>1140887)

By the sounds of it you want something with a little bit of suspension. Since you're not worried about speed a mountain bike should be fine
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>>1153507
Post your craigslist here we'll look
Our standard rec is a 90s rigid mtb with slicks. This is a meme, but its actually pretty solid for what you want to do. It won't be all that fast, but will handle shitty roads and light singletrack no problem, can even handle pretty technical shit if you practice your handling enough. They're pretty solid and easy to work on, you can find them for around $150 in good shape usually. Stick a rack and fenders on one and they make a good commuter/grocery getter
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>>1153517
>a little bit of suspension.
He's saying he wants to ride primarily on road, and cheap as possible, so rigid is probably better. Suspension is a pita if you don't really need it
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>>1153518
>Our standard rec is a 90s rigid mtb with slicks.
what do these words mean
>>
>>1153520
>rigid
without suspension

>mtb
mountainbike

>slicks
slick wheels, not knobby
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>>1153473
Did you watch the RJ video on fixie conversion? Really good stuff about measuring chainlines on there, I almost want to make one... Almost

Here it is. Cool pic btw

https://youtu.be/sInijI1vr34
>>
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>>1153520
basically >>1153521
In the late 80s and the 90s a bunch of mtbs were sold that had fully rigid frames, a pretty comfy riding position, very sturdy wheels and hubs, and usually a 7 speed drivetrain with a triple crank. Newer mtbs are either hardtail, meaning front suspension, no rear, which is nice for keeping the front end under control offroad but adds weight complexity and cost, or fs which is great for dh type riding but shit for everything else. Because of the suspension and very slack geo, newer mtbs suck on road but are great offroad, while 90s rigids are decent all around
>>
Are brifters much nicer to have than downtube friction shifters? Can't decide whether to just keep my current 8 speed setup on life support with a new chain and cassette, or get a new groupset altogether (thinking about Tiagra 4700).
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>>1153565
Brifters are convenient, but dt shifters are maximum /comfy/ if you're used to them. I wouldn't bother retrofitting an old bike with brifters, but on a new bike they're nice
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>>1153565
compact crank & wide cassette is a bigger change imo and that's totally worth it. Unless ur a faget that doesn't climb
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>>1153565
As someone who uses and likes both systems, yes, they are. Get some cheap ass used Sora or Claris 8 speed STIs and try them with your current drivetrain
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>>1153565
You could also look at indexed Sora downtube shifters. They're about $20-30 new and have worked fine for me so far.
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>>1153524
Nice, I'm not sure if I had. I did watch him release the frozen stem on that bike while trying to do the same on mine. Love his quasi-ghetto approach.
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>>1153565
If it's a commuter just leave em. If it's a bike you ride to go fast or far go brifters.
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>>1153506
and then what? you dispose of kerosene how?

use Simple Green, >>1153503. Cheap, can be used indoors without ventilation/making your house stink, can pour it down the sink.
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>>1153647
I hope he died
>>1153663
That or crud cutter. You can find it at auto arts stores. Also keosene will eat away at the plastic.
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>>1153647
alcohol's a hell of a drug
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>>1153524
Conversion finished. 52/22 lined up almost perfectly, all that was missing is chain tightness (explained in the video). Total cost: $0.00.
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>>1153703
Hell yeah
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>>1153565
Dt shifters are better than brifters, fuck anyone that says otherwise (unless you're mountain biking, and yes drop bar mountain bikes are a thing so yes brifters on mountain bikes are a thing)
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>>1153897
I love frictions but this opinion is stupid. Better for what, is the more important question.
>>
why are there so many bikefags here on /n/?
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>>1153962
The weight more, cost more, and require higher maintenance. Those are the facts.
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>>1153996
you sound like a fixiefag
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Gonna be changing my wheels on my bike for the first time. Drivetrain wheel. Any beginner pitfalls that I should be aware of?
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>>1154049
Installing wheels is pretty simple, just remember that your end goal is to have the plane of the hub flanges align with the frame and/or fork (with reference to the forward motion vector) and that will allow you to avoid most problems, assuming that your wheels are ellipses with low eccentricity.
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>>1154053
>Ellipses with low eccentricity
>Forward motion vector
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>>1154049
the obvious ones would be
>make sure the new hub is the same width or still compatible with your frame stay width (steel frames can be "cold set" for a little extra width, though. It basically means stretched-out, but only a little bit)
>that the new hub will either accept your current cassette/freewheel OR if it's different then keep the same number of cogs UNLESS you either run friction shifting or want to switch your shifter, too.
>make sure you reset your RD limits if the number of cogs changes.
>changing the number of cogs may require a chain with a different width.
>if you have a short-cage RD your new big cog can't be over ~28 or 30 teeth or else you will need to get a long-cage derailleur, too. This is assuming road, I don't think there is such thing as short-cage MTB but anyway check what you got.

that's just what I know
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>>1154053
Jokes on you, I understood that. Make sure they spin, got it.
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>>1154049
to state the really obvious, the wheel size needs to be the same standard (i.e. 700c, 26", etc) or else you need to check the compatibility of a different standard with your frame clearance, rim brake reach, tire clearance etc.
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>>1154006
The only thing wrong with fixies is the hipster subculture around them. Friction shifters are an extremely smart and elegant thing, like drop bars or spoke wheels.
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>>1154071
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>>1154078
I dedicate this victory to Sheldon Brown (famous fixiefag).
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How tight of a fit should bike shorts have? I got a pair recently and after a couple long rides with them I noticed that the compression was making my quads burn more than usual (i.e. more than they do when I ride in loose running shorts or tights). My average speed went down as well. I have a lot of visible veins (arteries?) on the surface of my legs as well, though, so could it just be that I'm not predisposed to wearing these things?
>>
Anyone have experience with S-works shoes?
Do they run narrow at all?

>>1154108
They should be tight, but there should be no discomfort.
Stop wearing those and go up a size.
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>>1154108
Get https://www.aerotechdesigns.com/mens-padded-pro-bike-short.html

Tight enough to fit snugly, loose enough to not be sore or restrictive
>>
>First road bike
>Neck sore after very short rides because I crank it
>Try to keep my neck more neutral and leveled with my spine on the next ride
>Can barely scan ahead enough for glass, potholes, and people so I have to go back to cranking my neck

What am I doing wrong? I’m trying to relax my shoulders and hands as much as possible meanwhile. Is this something I’ll just have to get used to or is it a bike fit issue? My stem is already angled up with a few spacers and my saddle is nearly level with it as well.
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>>1154149
You probably just need to work on your flexibility. When I first started riding for fitness and not just transportation I had a lot of aches and pains, stretching and working on my core strength helped a lot.
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>>1154149
It could be fit. It could be that you're just not used to riding a bike with road geometry and drops. It could be your grip; supposedly bad hand position or bad grips can make your whole body sore.
What hand position do you usually use? (tops/hoods/drops) If you are in the hoods a lot, you could change the position of the hoods, that may or may not help.
If you ride in the drops a lot, spend more time on the hoods and tops. Reserve the drops for sprinting and climbing until your body adjusts.
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>>1154151
I currently ride 95% of time on the hoods, sometimes on the flats. If I was riding the drops moreso then I could understand the neck fatigue and soreness.
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>>1154081
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>>1154155
Have someone take a pic or video of you on your bike from the side, do your body angles look more or less like this? If your bars are level with your saddle you may be reaching too far.
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My dick is raw after this morning's ride. I've been riding a lot less than I used to (4 times a month, I've been lazy), and around 40 minutes in I'll become aware of discomfort of my dick and try to move it around. I'm not usually aware of where my dick is at, but It was 50F out and I thought it was harder to feel than usual (maybe because of the windchill?), except for the head. I think the friction of moving around in my shorts did it. When I got home and put on a pair of tighter jeans it hurt to walk, the head was very sensitive. Is there a standard place or direction I'm supposed to push my junk towards while riding? Is deep between my legs good? I was worried about that because my balls might rub against my thighs too much. Could this have happened because I gained weight from riding less somehow?
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>>1154164
tuck up and to the left. worked for speedos, works for bibs. who cares if people stare at your dick, that's on them, not you.
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>>1154166
I'll try it next time.
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I'm finally tired of my stock Kenda tires, I've had 2 flats within this week. What are my options? Spend the money on Schwalbe Marathons? Do tire liners work even with high pressure road tires?
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>>1154167
if you jerk with your right hand tuck to your right.
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>>1154173
There are people jerking it with their left now? What have I been missing out on all my life?
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>>1154177
Gotta click and jerk dude it's 2018
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>>1154172
>I'm finally tired of my stock Kenda tires, I've had 2 flats within this week. What are my options? Spend the money on Schwalbe Marathons? Do tire liners work even with high pressure road tires?

SUPREMES. NOT REGULAR MARATHONS.
For the love of God no memeskins
Tire liners are trash
P much any tire will be better than a stock Kenda
Without knowing your bike and rims I can't tell you what size to get
Get 60 tpi and consider them mid level
120 is better. Pro
>>
Do any of you use road bikes with stem lengths that are less than 100mm? Starting to think my reach is too much, but I also don't know how exaggerated people are when they say the handling gets a lot twitchier
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>>1154213
>Smallest size is a 700x32

My road bike came with 25mm. I haven't measured it but I'm guessing that at most it will fit a 28.
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>>1154155
Could be the hood position then
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>>1154214
It's not twitchy at all. Drop bar bikes tend to steer like boats because not only do they have long stems they also have a lot of added reach from the handle bars, on the hoods or drops your hands are probably at least 100mm further forward than they would be on flat bars. So, for drop bars to feel twitchy even with a 30mm stem you'd need to find flat bars with a ~130mm stem to also be twitchy, and that's not gonna happen unless you've got a stupidly steep head angle.
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>>1154214
I've used stems as long as 120mm and short as 60mm and havent had any problems with twitchyness. it's noticeably easier to get things turning but its not even remotely close to being any sort of problem
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>>1154214
>Do any of you use road bikes with stem lengths that are less than 100mm? Starting to think my reach is too much, but I also don't know how exaggerated people are when they say the handling gets a lot twitchier

I've ridden the same bike with 130mm, 60mm, 100, 90, etc. up down riser slammed

If you are tall and the numbers say your bike is the right size, try dropping the stem lower AND keeping it long. And, actually, before you do that, slam your saddle back as far as it will go.

Somehow at 6'5 on a 58cm top tube bike I was under the impression that I was "too stretched out" when it was exactly the opposite problem. I found that slamming the saddle back and lowering my stem (which extends the reach even more) is what I needed.

What I really need is a bike with a 64cm top tube but who is gonna pay for that shit?
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>>1154053
>forward motion vector
>ellipses with low eccentricity
Found the engineering dropout and /sci/ reject
>>
Ordered a new crankset today because I fucked the pedal threading on my current one by not using grease like a retard

Want to make sure I do shit right this time. Do I really need a torque wrench? I just have a simple hybrid bike, a Jamis Coda, so I don't think anything's going to have to be too particular, but still, don't want to make another $30 mistake.
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>>1154295
You don't need a torque wrench for pedals. You probably can't even physically turn a spanner hard enough to strip those. Just fucking grease the threads.
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>>1154299
For installing the crankset, not the pedals. Should have been clearer. I don't want to have to buy another crankset if I fuck up installing this one.
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>>1154300
Also I'm going to borrow a crank puller from a friend so that's taken care of already.
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>>1154300
>>1154301
They're strong threads. Don't worry about torque. Worry about cross threading, make sure it's going in smoothly before applying any sort of torque to it.
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>>1154303
Okay, thanks. Was more worried about the crank being loose or something.
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>>1154305
What I mean is it's difficult to overtorque, you really do need to screw that shit down tight.
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>>1154308
Will do.
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what road or racing bike do i get for 900 aud (700 usd) ill go up a hundred or two if i have to
>daily use
>i want to go fast
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>>1154312

At that price range, you have many new and used options. Seriously, just go with something that fits you right, has rack mounts, and time-tested components. Also, save some money for bike accessories like racks, locks, lights etc.
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>>1154312
Define your "daily use" and "want to go fast"
For 1k you can find some really good mid-tier racing bikes (2nd hand obviously).
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>>1154312
go to /bbg/ for buying bikes
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>>1154316
40ks most days and 60 when i have time
i can average 20k/hr if i try super hard but i’m on mtn bike. thanks for suggestions
>>1154317
ok buddy
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>>1154312
Look at Kona and Jamis models, they're great bang for your buck
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>>1154350
2nd hand CAAD 10
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>>1154295
In general, you should use a torque wrench whenever carbon is involved. If carbon is not involved, just don't be an idiot. Chances are high that it wasn't just lack of grease but also that you cross threaded.
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>>1154312
CAAD as other anon recommended is a good option. For performance road bikes that would be reasonable to race on, buying new you'd be looking at around 2k USD and up, but if you just want to ride for fun, 700-1000 USD is reasonable to get a pretty solid bike.
>>
the chain on my bike has reached the end of its life, its at .75 on the chain wear tool and close to 1.0 (the 1.0 side can almost fit through). i have never changed a chain and I purchased a chain that has the master link tool but my current chain i guess requires a chain tool or something to disconnect it?
>>
Just finished a long ride and it somehow fucked up my left hand. I've basically lost all my strength in the index finger and thumb of my left hand--I can't even use them to type anymore. Did I pinch a nerve or something? For most of the ride I was putting all my weight on my palms. Has anyone heard of this sort of thing happening befoe?
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>>1154428
Yes, a chain breaker. Definitely a tool worth getting, although you can open it with a nail and a hammer as well.
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>>1154428
Get a Park Tool CT-5. Make sure to properly size the new chain, you'll have to remove a few links.
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>>1154428
you'll need a chain tool initially to get the chain to the right length anyway, the master link is for getting the chain on and off the bike.
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>>1154430
It goes away after a few hours, at least it did the times it happened to me.
>>
I've already got a decaleur built into a small rack from VeloOrange but it's not really big or stable enough for my large front bag. I'm thinking of getting rid of my mini rack, getting a big porteur/"pizza" rack and a new, higher decaleur on the handlebars. Thing is, I can't find them anywhere.

Does anyone know where I can buy a handlebar/stem mounted decaleur? Preferably in Europe, but anything would be good.
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>>1154456
pic related is my current setup. Would be perfect if I could get something mounted directly to the headset or headtube.
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>>1154430
Happened to me last week.
>>1154442
it took several days for all the strength of mine to come back. probably NOT good.
>>
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>>1154459
That's pretty slick, have you considered just attaching a wider platform to your rack? You could zip tie on something like pic related.
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>>1153647
did he died?
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Could anyone tell me what any of these things are?
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>>1154584
The two yellow things are tire levers. The thing at the top is a mount for a light or something else small, the clamp mechanism is designed to fit on a variety of seatpost sizes (or handlebars) and the item in the lower right looks like a clip of some kind, also designed to work with a specific accessory. that you must not have...
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>>1154586
Thanks! I think the mount is for a tail light, but I'll have to decipher the clip's purpose.
(Friend gave me his bike+kit, but didn't explain the contents well.)
>>
>>1153473
i asked the question in /sp/ and was redirected to here, so: why do i seldom hear anything about tubless in the context of bmx? i mean if you're riding street you never know when you might find a small piece of glass or a nail and get a small puncture. i saw a guy ride a tubless trials bike -trying- to get a flat, to the point that he smashed a bottle, and bunny hopped in to the glass several times, and didnt manage to get a flat. i also saw a guy ride over a board with nails in it something like 30 times and still hold air with tubless, and with either of those i'm sure a bmx bike with a tube would be getting pushed home instead of ridden
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>>1154606
The main advantage of tubeless is that it allows for tires to be run at lower pressures, and the resistance to punctures is a side benefit. BMX riders don't see much benefit from either of those, because they have to keep their tire pressure relatively high, and punctures are rarely an issue for riders who mostly stick to prepared tracks or parks.
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>>1154612
yeah, i'll concede that people who race BMX have no need, but i'm really talking about the street riders, the ones who will be hitting sharp 90 degree angles with a single tire, or finding glass/nails
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>>1154614
Street BMX riders are too dumb for tubeless
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>>1154614
I'd be worried they'd blow the tyre off the rim with the pressure needed.
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>>1154591
the black lower right thing is the magic mystery meme machine contraption device :) super rare and highly collectable almost like delta v1000
>>
>>1154442
>>1154546

Thanks guys. I slept on it and the strength has started to come back. I'm going to look at my handlebar position and maybe get my bike fitted so that it hopefully won't happen again.
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>>1154634
If you post a picture of your bike (taken from the side) we could help you a bit figure out what's wrong with your fit.
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>>1154626
okay fair point, i once saw a group of 4 end their riding session because one of them got a flat and none of them had any tools, much less a pump and spare tube. like, legit, not a single one had a single tool
>>1154629
really? i feel like if the pressure was enough to blow them off it would do it tubes or tubless. i mean the bead is either steel cable or kevlar. burping the tires on hard landings and running out of pressure is a possibility though
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>>1154640
I'm not 100% sure on the mechanism, but it just doesn't happen on standard clinchers unless you greatly exceed the tyre's guidelines. Tubeless doesn't have the extra support from the inner tube, or something, which is why it can blow off.
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>>1154584
the little arrow shapes in the tire levers are so you can put the opposite end under the tire bead, lever it down, and hook it through a spoke so it doesn't come loose while you slide the other lever along the tire bead in one hand while your other hand is now free to grip the wheel firmly.

pretty sure that butterfly shaped orange stuff acts like a bungie so you should be able to hook it onto a variety of things, which is neat.
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Anyone ever owned a Giant SCR3.0 or similar giant road bike? I just got given one for free and I'm looking at using at as a commuter during the week and babbies first road bike at the weekend

The only other bike I've ever owned as an adult was a on old rigid mtb converted into a commuter

How the fuck do I put mudguards and a rack on this thing?
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>>1154834
Lucky you, you actually can put them in. Freds are afraid of being mistaken for casuals, so not all new road bikes come with the highlighted holes (which is where the mudguard and racks go).
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>>1154837
So this is a decent bike then? I've always been sort of wary of road bikes, but I had to leave my old bike behind when I moved, it feels super light which I'm not sure about
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I can't afford a fitting, what's the proper way to tell if a saddle works for you without buying/returning?
>>
>>1154851
Measure your sitbones
You'll still probably need to try a few though
>>1154844
It's pretty entry level tier but decent enough
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>>1154844
going from MTB to road is a little weird at first. The speed is really nice. You can actually bunny-hop them a little--up a standard curb at least. You can ride offroad a little if you're careful and slow, it's not "fun" but if you have a shortcut you can do it. just remember you can't ride your bike down flights of stairs anymore. Had to stop myself a few times at first, would have fucked my rims and pinch-flatted no doubt.
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>>1154844
You'll love it. The design of road bikes hasn't changed much in almost a century and for good reason. Once you get used to them, they feel a lot more grounded and safer than mtbs on the road, and of course faster.
Check Sheldon Brown's site before adjusting and upgrading it. It is a bit messy but it covers a lot:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com
or directly https://www.sheldonbrown.com/beginners.html
>>
>>1154853
>just remember you can't ride your bike down flights of stairs anymore. Had to stop myself a few times at first, would have fucked my rims and pinch-flatted no doubt.
Maybe with 25mm or 27mm flaccid meme tires. 23mm's at 8bars can stand that and more.
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>>1154856
well, that's what I had, but I never risked it. I'd drop off a curb at speed onto the street, but I was paranoid about running my skinny tires over the pointy edges of the stairs.
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>>1154853
>Can't ride down flights of stairs anymore
Shame, I loved doing that, was the best bit of my commute and cut like fives minutes off my travel time being able to bomb down the stairs from main street to the lower sections of the city

>>1154854
This thing doesn't feel grounded at all at the minute, and I can't say I like how bent over I am when riding, I'm not a complete beginner to cycling as a whole but I've never owned a bike that cost more than 40 quid, I found my old bike in a shed on a farm and stuck some city tires on it, do I have to actually do much to turn this thing into a commuter? I've got some flat pedals on the way, it came with clipless pedals which freaked me the fuck out when I tried them
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>>1154852
i mean entry-level tier beats the shit out of wallmart-teir
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>>1154857
Try it some time if you've got a beater. I've even done rocky trails, never got pinch flats there. The only times I've gotten them it was for riding with under-inflated tires.
>>1154858
You'll get used to it. Go practice away from traffic, into an empty parking lot or a sports field. Ride until you're comfortable, specially with the brakes. The same applies to clipless.
The bike itself looks ready to ride. All you need is lights, a good lock, mudguards if it's rainy, and a backpack to carry your stuff.
>>
>>1154869
did you not see the timestamp on his image from 2013.
why would anyone bother actually posting a picture of their bike on an image board about bikes?
>>
QUESTION:
DT Swiss doesn't make RR585 rims anymore. They're the most bomb-proof rims I've ever heard of.
What DT Swiss rim should be it's replacement?

If not DT Swiss, then what rim would /n/ recommend?
>Must be at least 32-hole, 36-hole preferred
>Must be bomb-proof
>Must be aluminum (I don't consider CF to be bomb-proof)

>inb4 ask DT Swiss
I'm already asking them. They're slow to respond. Also doesn't hurt to have more than one opinion.
>>
>>1154858
>bomb down the stairs
>on a bike
RIP in peace, wheelset
>>
>>1154888
>Worrying about the wheelset on the glorious early 90's shitbike
>>
>>1154892
idgaf if some 4chan faggot ruins his bike, he'll learn the easy way or the hard way and idgaf one way or the other
>>
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>>1154888
A few stairs is nothing compared to the cobbled classics, and they're using pretty low-pressure tires to not destroy their asses. Granted, many ruin their wheels there, but they still need to make it to the end of the race (last year's Paris-Roubaix was 257kms with 55km of pavé). Road bikes are tougher than people give them credit for.
>>
>>1154901
I've never ridden down stairs, and I've never owned a BMX bike since I was a kid, so how should I know?
>>
>>1154081
socks & sandals? what a boss
>>
>>1154888
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfjjiHGuHoc
>>
>>1154081
>sheldon rode the same brand bike as you
feels good man
>>1154942
spd sandals lol
>>
>>1154942
Only elightened tourists know this joy. Its a modular footware system that can be tuned for any conditions. Truly patrician technology.
>>
>>1154958
>waterproof socks
wouldn't these just get filled with sweat and be horrible?
>>
>>1154959
Pretty much anything waterproof does that. The point is you only wear the waterproof socks when it's wet and have other socks for different times. Like heavy wool for cold and sport socks for warm weather. You can then combine them for whatever conditions arise, just like how you layer clothing. It's light weight and versatile. Unfortunately I was told by my boss I had to wear real shoes. There is no hope for some people.
>>
>>1154417
No, I double-checked, right pedal was up/right slant. It was lack of grease and forcing that shit in that stripped shit. Original pedals broke, put on some shitty $10 ones in the meantime, didn't grease those either, then I put on new ones.

Needless to say I'm double-checking shit from now on instead of just winging it like a retard.
>>
Would bar ends be worth it for a cheap hybrid? I just want more hand positions but don't want to shell out for a new bar.
>>
>>1154995
personally i hate them but fuck it why not
>>
>>1154995
yeah
>>
>>1154995
Absolutely
>>
Hey /bqg/ I want to do some maintenance on my bottom bracket area. My left crank arm keeps coming loose every.. few weeks to a month. It's not that big of a deal I just tighten it up but it is an awkward noise to have to deal with 30 minutes from home.

The problem is.. now I want the crank arm off I can't get the fucker to come loose. How do I do that?
>>
>>1155079. Google square taper crank arm puller
>>
>>1154995
Newks were something special
The guy died though
I wish origin8 drop extensions weren't shit
>>
>>1154958
This is true
I am going full sandalmode
Cycling About convinced me, but I will not be clipping in with mine
Currently looking for teva style sandals with a hard sole
>>
>>1155083
I was actually looking at the Origin8 drop ends. What makes them shit? Any recommendations for a better type or brand?
>>
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>>1155116
The ergo bend. Honestly some people like this but I'm too snobby to allow one.

There aren't any easily found drop bar extensions. Newk is there only other I know about. If you go bar ends I would recommend ergon brand. They aren't cool but people love them
>>
>>1153502
Norco XFR 4 would do well for both street and light off road usage, and the 2017/16 models are on special at most shops that still have them.
>>
>>1155123
Still didn't say what's so shitty about the Origin8s. Ergon looks hard to find, but I could check with my bike shop to see if they can order it when I go to pick up my new crankset, I guess. By the "bend" ones do you mean the GP5?
>>
>>1154887
Wow, DT Swiss' rim lineup is a mindfuck now. I'd go with Velocity Deep V.
>>
>>1154887
Mavic a719 is popular touring option in 36. I think you'll need to run at least 28mm tires, but ideally you're using 32-38. A319 is cheaper, slightly lighter, but lower weigh capacity
>>
>>1155130
No sorry, I mean the little wiggle shape you see in the origin8 bars. That's called Ann ergo bend. Not to be confused with the ergon brand... Unrelated.... Both names coming from the root word ergonomic
>>
>>1155136
So which would you suggest? The GP4 or GP5? I got big hands. I want something comfortable.
>>
>>1154547
Why would you need a dish rack on your bike?
>>
>>1155139
To dry dishes.
>>
>>1155138
Not that guy but I rode on a bike with GP4 and it's comfy af.
>>
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>>1155140
>>
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http://2013.feltracing.com/USA/2013/Verza/Verza-City/Verza-City-2.aspx
Would this work for bikepacking across roads and gravel mainly, or should I just kill myself
>>
>>1155284
What do you think bikepacking means
>>
>>1155286
just being urself
>>
>>1155138
I never actually owned them, but I've seen them praised by everyone from tourers, commuters, and MTB guys. There is a large and small size. From what I hear, the large size is very large, and a lot of guys choose small. So, your probably good. Besides large vs small the rest it's just your preference for the horns. I think the curvy one to the far right is overkill, I'd get the second longest or one from the middle.

The grip itself will be a huge comfort gain if you install it at the correct angle. Lots of cool guys only get the grip without horns
>>
>>1155141
>>1155288
Alright, thanks. I tracked down a pair of GP4s on some shop's ebay page. The grip itself looks pretty similar to what I already have on there, shape-wise, but I assume this one has better materials.
>>
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>>1155284
>aluminium frame and fork with flat handlebars and a cheap saddle
>for touring and riding on gravel
Plus it weights almost 15kg and has shitty mudguards. Its only redeeming are the brakes and babby gears. It's a bike and I'm sure the wheels spin, but it doesn't look like a good purchase, specially for that job.
>>
>>1155123
>snobby
>riding 'drop bar extensions'
pick one
>>
>>1155296
What if I put drop bars on it, take the mudguards off, and get a better saddle? There is one for 300 bucks pls respond im poor thanks dad
>>
>>1155284
Be nice to yourself and don't get that bike.
>>
>>1155330
Pimp a 90's rigid mtb. It will be cheaper and better.
>>
>>1155330
don't
>>
I have a boost mtb fork and a non boost front wheel. Would it be safe to use a 3d printer to print a pair of caps to make it possiple to fit the wheel to the fork? I have a free acces to a 3d printer but I'm no engineer so I have no idea about the strength of the plastic. The hub end caps tend to be plastic so I'd assume that it couldn't be too deadly.
>>
>>1155131
I got a response from DT Swiss, they made a recommendation I'm taking, and it's not that rim. Thanks for replying anyway.
>>1155133
Fuck Mavic. :-) They've pissed me off a couple times now and I'd just as soon avoid their products.
>>
>>1155370
This would be a bad idea. If you have access to a lathe you could turn some metal ones up.
>>
I was going throw a storage bin of spare parts and I found a bunch of shimano cx70 parts I bought a couple of years ago on a whim. Front and rear derailleurs, cx70 cantilever brakes, and a cogset. I've got 105 10 speed shifters. I was thinking about building up a nice cross bike with it. Only problem is I never got around to getting the CX70 crankset to match and I can't seem to find one that isn't pretty roughly used.

Can anyone recommend a good 10 speed ultegra or 105 46/36t crankset or am I better off buying the chain rings I want for it?
>>
Does anyone have a preference on quality between Thule and Yakima roof racks and bike racks?
>>
>>1155417
Hitch racks that cradle the wheels are much cheaper and easier to use. Had a Thule roof rack and the fit was not great but this will depend on your vehicle. Also the locks are easy to defeat.
>>
>>1155416
>46/36t
fuck. that. maybe if you want to actually race cross ok sure, i don't know about that, but i do ride quite a lot of gravel and I like my 53/39/26 crank and 11-34 cassette.

If i was you, i'd look at the new meme super compacts, something like 46-30 or 44-28. I'm pretty sure they exist. A 36t small ring is just not small enough at all imo, unless you don't have any climbing in which case, move.
>>
>>1155422
It's a hatchback and I don't want to put a hitch on it. Besides I plan on being able to attach more than bikes on the roof.
>>
>>1155424
not very aero lad
>>
>>1155425
Yeah well I'm not towing a trailer to take a kayak with me.

I just don't know which to choose, Thule or Yakima. Your experience with Thule was negative?
>>
Does anyone here happen to be a member of CyclingTorrents? I'd kill for an invite, I have others to offer too
>>
Are cable disc brakes really that much worse than hydraulic disc brakes?
>>
>>1155445
Yes
>>
>>1155445
yes but bleeding really isn't that easy or cheap.
>>
>>1155445
Hydraulics are better if you have a maintenance team or time to work on your bike. If you're concerned about field repairs then cables are a life saver
>>
>>1155284
>Tekro mech disc brakes
LOL

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/toughroad-slr-2-2017

This is a much better bike for the money, the 2017 version is probably discounted somewhere. Otherwise get the 2018 version.
You'll have to buy a rear fender and pannier racks seperately but it's a much lighter bike.

Alternatively you can probably find a version of the https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/toughroad-slr-1 discounted somewhere.
Already has racks installed.

>>1155330
>What if I put drop bars on it, take the mudguards off, and get a better saddle?

Then get a Giant Anyroad or any of the ones I've mentioned earlier.

There are probably other options
>>
>>1155451
It also isn't that hard, if you can set up gears you can bleed a brake. DOT fluid is really cheap and a lot of brakes you can bleed with just a syringe and a bit of tubing.
>>
>>1155453
https://martyscycleonline.com/product/fuji-touring/
>>
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I got this bike off Craigslist because I want to do some casual to intermediate mountain biking once the snow goes away.

It's not in great shape. There's cracks around the tread which makes me think it needs new tires. It seems to shift through the gears okay but I haven't ridden a bike in years so I have no reference.
Are disc brakes a must?

Shimano Deore derailleurs.

What things should I look out for that may need adjustment/ repair/replace?

Im pretty handy, would I be able to do these things myself or are special tools needed?
Should I just take it to a shop and have them fuck my shit up?
>>
>>1155526
>Are disc brakes a must?
They're a meme. If you can brake hard enough to skid with the rear brake and fly over the handlebars with the front one, you've reached and exceeded perfect braking.
>>
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Is 5mm-7mm enough fork crown clearance for bombing down rocky mountain doubletrack? Soma 42mm cazaderos under a trek 750 fork
>>
Several things:
1. Still playing around with seat height. Anyone here with an inseam of about 31.5"? I'm about 70ish cm height currently.

2. Does anyone else have a problem with their heels hitting the cranks while pedaling? Not sure if it's worth buying pedal extenders or just getting new ones altogether.
>>
>>1155543
In what way are the cranks hitting your heal. How are you pedalling currently?


Side question, I’m looking for a 2x8 brifter and specifically an ultegra 600 on eBay, but alternatively I could get locally a set of new Claris 2x8s. Is 90s ultegra going to be better than current day Claris assuming same condition?
>>
>>1155550
I'm about 6'0" with a size 12 shoe. I'm just a campus commuter/weekend rider in tennis shoes, so I think that's been contributing to the cranks hitting me.I don't think I'm a toe-down pedaler, I'm probably more flat. I think I've been unconsciously trying to avoid the crank so I feel some soreness in my upper ankle.
>>
>>1155552
Oh I see what you mean, so your foot is angled in a way that they hit the cranks then. If you really have wide feet then new pedals would be the way to go. How big are your pedals?
>>
>>1155553
About 3" wide. I just got into riding so blindly got whatever cage pedals were available that were cheap that could take half clips.
>>
>>1155557
Definitely need new pedals m8
>>
>>1155543
Keep your feet straight, don't pedal like a duck
>>
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>>1155526
New tires are the single best upgrade you can make to a bike so get some online for your money and don't cheap out.
The other thing i'd suggest is some pinned flats or spd pedals. I have pic related and like them a lot. Much better than your current style and i wouldn't be surprised if those bearings were shot.
Spin the wheels, if the bearings are rough in the hubs or there is any side to side play, service them. If they are not round, get them trued. Servicing the hubs is something you can do yourself with some tools, but trueing them is harder.
Shift to your smallest chainring, take the chain off the chainring, and spin the crank. If it's rough then look into replacing the bottom bracket. That's not very hard to do.
If you want to improve the braking, get some Kool Stop pads. If you want to improve it more, get new cables.
Get a chain-wear tool and check for chain stretch, replace the chain if you need to.

Don't do too crazy, if you actually get serious about mtbing you'd want something more modern and if you want a really good commuter you'd want something with a rigid fork. It's an ok bike though. Worth buying tools and learning/ attempting repairs for imo because it's not a biggie to fuck it up and getting a shop to work on it you'll quickly exceed it's value in labour cost.
>>
>>1155532
>>1155582
Good info, thanks
>>
How badly am I about to get burnt? Pretty close to pulling the trigger on this https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/bik/d/canelli-54cm-fixed-gear-track/6476082610.html
>>
>>1155593
You're not going to decide to buy it before you've seen it in person and ridden it are you? You're not going to agree to buy it before haggling right?

It's personally not my cup of tea, if i wanted a fast track bike to ride on the street it would be threadless with an external bearing crank because you have to mash a fixie to climb, so having a flexy old-standards bike doesn't make a lot of sense to me, and if it was old timey, it would have to float my aesthetic boat slightly more than that does, which certainly looks good, but just not quite good enough. I hate straight blade steel forks. It seriously irks me that the decals have been removed. What the fuck is 'canelli' that's like pinarollo like some chinkshit copyright name or yowapedal.

Liking it is the most important thing (well and fit, and condition), if you like it, you'll like riding it. Arbitrary reasons. So go off that.
>>
>>1155550
bumping for selfish reasons
>>
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>>1155550
>Side question, I’m looking for a 2x8 brifter and specifically an ultegra 600 on eBay, but alternatively I could get locally a set of new Claris 2x8s. Is 90s ultegra going to be better than current day Claris assuming same condition?
SHIMERGOOO
>>
>>1155601
>You're not going to agree to buy it before haggling right?
Jesus, this. If you pay $700 for that you're getting scammed.
>>
>>1155688
remember that's canadollars so it's not quite as bad
>>
>>1155609
Bunch of subjective preferences to sort out. 6400 stuff is 25 years old… but serviceable. Modern STIs are shiny & new… but if something goes wrong, you basically have to trash it.
>>
>>1155533
Can somebody please encourage me to be an idiot re:
>>
Broke my left femur bone unicycling (yep, unicycling) any recovery tips? Also fuck unicycles now, I'm back to 2 wheels after this shet blows over
>>
>>1155728
Holy shit that sucks
>>
>>1155730
Shit yeah it does. At least I get free oxys murka opiates fuck yeah
>>
>>1155728
Story?
>>
>>1155728

femur? wtf how!?
>>
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>>1155734
>>1155735
>rode unicycle for 5 months
>still kinda suck
>go up this weird uphill ramp interrupted by tiny flat sections
>get caught on flat section
>land 180 lbs of amerolard on left leg
As soon as I saw that fucking leg go 90 degrees to the right I'm like "it's fucking over lads"
>>
>>1155739
Go somewhere grassy and learn to fall next time you get on a 2 or 1-wheeled vehicle.
>>
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The rear wheel on my bike (pic related) is going out after 4 years of shitty bay area roads. I think the frame is warped since I got it re-trued but it keeps throwing spokes. Does anyone have any wheel recommendations? Ideally ones that are cheap and reliable - don't need any carbon fiber ellipsoid turbowheels for this beater.
>>
Are there any good sites to order beginner urban commuters for cheap, new preferably? Companies?

https://westridgeoutdoors.com/collections/all-bikes/products/harper-ss?variant=1914646691870

I've found this company and model, but from the reviews I've gathered there's a 4% chance a pedal will snap off while I'm riding it.
>>
>>1155758
Shimano R500
>>1155766
>good
>cheap
>new
Pick two
>>
>>1155770
Cheap
Good
>simple and easy as possible maybe?
>>
>>1155775
Used steel single speed from your local craigslist
>>
>>1155739
That sucks dude.. Get well soon. If you're looking for a more stable mode of transport might I suggest one of the many fine offerings from Quality Bicycle Parts? Perfect for everyone, from MGTOW orc-men to hebraic dental surgeons
>>
How the hell do I drill the hole of the rear brake mount from the inside to fit a recessed nut? I can't fit a drill in there
>>
>>1155806
Right angle drill/drill adapter and a stubby bit. You could probably do it from an angle with a ball burr bit too.
>>
>>1155812
Ball burr sounds like a great idea, thanks
>>
>>1155814
If you can find one of the exact diameter (or really close) it'll be real easy to do, as soon as the ball fits through the hole it's the right size and round and you'll be unlikely to make it too big. Good luck homie.
>>
>>1155806
I had this same problem. I just drilled the other side and mounted the break backwards.
>>
>>1155824
Hah, I was asking because the other day I was drilling a friend's frame and had to do that. Didn't look half bad either, but I wouldn't do it on one of my bikes.
>>
How do i build endurance? How do i HTFU?
The longest distance i've done was ~60 km a couple of times, and that was torture.
That was on a fixie though. Does that make any difference?
>>
>>1155831
>going 60km on a fixie

the fuck

Yes, gearing makes a big difference assuming you're not riding on 60km of perfectly flat level ground. That's probably a big part of it. Bike fit and posture and all that shit play into it too.

As far as building endurance just keep riding because there's no other way to make your body stronger.
>>
>>1155582
What should I look for when shopping for tires? What would be considered cheaping out? Recommended brands?
>>
>>1155832
>>going 60km on a fixie
>the fuck
Is that a lot, or very short? People on /n/ often make it seem like they're doing imperial centuries before breakfast.

>gearing makes a big difference
It's relatively low geared at 42/16. I don't think i'm strong enough to really have much use for a higher gearing.

>assuming you're not riding on 60km of perfectly flat level ground.
I live near the coast where, while not perfectly flat, i wouldn't say it's terribly hilly either.

>Bike fit and posture and all that shit play into it too.
I'm very happy with how the bike feels on shorter rides ~10-15 km. It's a lot of fun running around town on it.

My other bike is a geared fatbike which i use for winter and bad weather commuting, I can't see myself doing 60 km on that either.
>>
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I took my bike to the local bike shop today. It's been in really rough shape on account of my poor maintenance, which I pledge to be better about in the future.

The back wheel needs to be replaced because a bunch of those long thin wires that hold its shape have fallen off and caused the wheel's shape to warp, so it's all wobbly. Right now I don't even have it mounted on correctly, because I know it needs to be replaced. I've taken it off before to examine it.

I spoke to the guy at the bike shop and had him investigate other problems I was having and he told me I'd need a new rear derailleur (as a piece fell off that guides the chain came off, the chain has been "skipping" while riding), new chain(that it was stretched), and a new freewheel. For all of that and a new wheel, I was quoted $110 and $30 for labor. $140 total.

I wasn't prepared to spend that much today or else I would have already, so I think I'm going to try to find the parts cheaper online in the meantime and may still even bring it all in for them to fix it up for me.

Could you guys help me find the parts I need at a good price?
The tire on the existing wheel is "26 x 1.95", so I need a new wheel that supports that. I may just buy the one they sell at the bike shop. He told me it would cost $40 for that and I'm not seeing a much better deal online.
Chain I found: https://www.amazon.com/Snaplock-Bicycle-Chain-Single-Speed-Silver/dp/B0013FBE8I/
Derailleur I found: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UWJW7W/
Freewheel I found: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CPLXL84/

I don't know if those parts I found are compatible. I really just want to get it going again without spending a bunch of money and would appreiate your guys' help and sagelike advice.
>>
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There was another thing I've had problems with that even the bike shop guy wasn't sure of. I'd have this gear shifted up and as I rode my bike it would slide back down on its own to this down position. His only solution was that the gears needed to be adjusted.
>>
>>1155832
60km isn't that much

>>1155846
Metric centuries are pretty typical for a weekend ride. Imperials aren't common unless you're training for double/triples
>>
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Here's a close pic on the derailleur I have on it already. Again, I know the tire isn't mounted on there. I intend to take it off again.
>>
I just got a fixie.

How do I start/stop on this thing without looking like a fool?

I can start up easy if I don't use foot retention, but when when I try to stop, it just lefts me off the saddle as I put literally all my weight on the rear pedal and suddenly my forward foot has nothing under it.

If I use foot retention, I have no idea how to get my second foot into the now moving pedal.

And even if I manage to, going and slowing are awkward as fuck.

No skid kidz pls.
>>
>>1155766
In the UK Halfrauds do a pretty good line of cheapish aluminium commuters, don't know if anyone sells them in the US though
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/hybrid-bikes/carrera-subway-1-mens-hybrid-bike-18-20-22-frames

>>1155854
>Remove rear wheel
>Flip wheel over onto free wheel hub
>Re-install rear wheel
>>
>>1155847
Just buy a new bike from walmart. I know it says bridgestone, but that bike is barely above Walmart tier components. At least the walmart bike will have indexed shifting
>>
>>1155858
Cheap indexed shifting is fucking awful though, I'd take old friction shifters over cheap twist or trigger shifters any day

>>1155847
He is right about just buying another bike, that one's fucked and the (fair enough) price you're being quoted is more than its actual value

Post craigslist in your area and let us have a look
>>
>>1155845
use this thread instead
>>1126179
>>
>>1155854
>How do I start/stop on this thing without looking like a fool?
Install a brake.
>>
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>>1155858
>>1155859
Somehow this never dawned on me, my mind is blown.

To be honest with you, I bought that bike for $60 on Craigslist to begin with. I guess I'm overly attached to this bike for no reason. I've been riding it for years up until this happened.

I will look on Craigslist and are $100 Walmart bikes really comparable to my yellow bike?
>>
>>1155847
>those long thin wires that hold its shape
They're called spokes.
>>
fucked up yellow bike-guy

Does this look good for $50? Craigslist ad says "great condition. 18 speed. Everything works. Nothing wrong with it. Ready to ride."
>>
>>1155863
Not really desu
Walmart bikes and others like them are often packed with "features" like massive groupsets and suspension that don't work properly and are only there to convince teenagers and idiots that they're getting something good, they often also suffer from terrible QC, shit welding and being assembled by absolute idiots

Nothing new at $100 is going to be good, you're better of looking for something preowned that was pretty good when it came out, and has only become cheap because its old

Case in point, a few years ago I got an old viking rigid frame mountain bike, made in England from proper Chromoly steel by people who knew what they were doing for £30, the cheapest thing I could have bought new would have been a supermarket brand "mountain" bike for £99, made in China by a robot from pot metal that would have fallen apart in months

Either buy used or save up $300ish for something minimalist and entry level, like a single speed or commuter with basic but good components on it
>>
>>1155869
Post the link to your areas craigslist
>>
>>1155872
http://stockton.craigslist.org/
Stay in Stockton, I'm not going to any neighboring cities.

To be honest, $60 is all I have to spend right now.
>>
>>1155863
>$100 Walmart bikes really comparable to my yellow bike?
not exactly, IMO, but they have a point. The shop guy isn't ripping you off, it doesn't sound like, but seeing as you paid $60 for it and his quote is more than double that…
I don't recommend a wal-mart bike but for that budget of $140 that's certainly an option. personally I'd try to get a good used bike on CL. I paid under $200 for a good bike with everything in good condition a few years ago, try that.
your frame is good, fwiw, but that isn't really going to help you.

>>1155869
it's worth $50 for sure as long as there are no cracks in the frame (unlikely but check anyway esp all the welds on all sides) I'd put your old saddle on it, though.
>>
I just may buy that Univega bike. Good call about keeping my yellow bike's seat. I've sat on those wide girly bikeseats and they, surprisingly, turn out being way more uncomfortable than a narrow hard seat for some reason.
>>
>>1155879
It seems to be the best of the bunch for $60 or below, if you can stump another 20 from somewhere, this is likely a lot better

https://stockton.craigslist.org/bik/d/vintage-japanese-skyway-bike/6495551442.html

But if you've only got 60 you're only got 60
>>
>>1155880
I actually saw that bike while browsing and it looked really cool. Is it safe buying a vintage bike like that? does it use standard tubes and tires?

I am tempted to drive to Tracy for that because it does look pretty neato.
>>
>>1155881
You're probably best asking the seller about that, some of the brands used pretty standard components, some of them use weird dawe's shit that's now impossible to find
>>
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While we're on the topic of Wallmart bikes, why are entry-level bikes so fucking heavy and expensive?
An aluminium Triban 500 or a Giant Defy 5 weight almost 10kg and cost around 500-600€. My shitty OTS that was never particularly good to begin with weights the same and cost one fifth of that.
>>
>>1155882
I texted them and it's sold already
>>
>>1155883
> My shitty OTS that was never particularly good to begin with weights the same
Doubt it, that's 22 pounds which is pretty light for an OTS and your's probably weighs 26-28 if not more.

22 pounds isn't particularly heavy (the Defy 5 is actually close to 21) and you shouldn't feel the need to go lighter unless you're racing, in which case if you can't afford to spend more for a lighter bike you're in the wrong hobby.
>>
>>1155883
Because you're comparing a new bike to a 20 year old bike?

That doesn't seem particularly heavy or expensive to me, for a new bike.
>>
>>1154430
This anon again. The limited mobility in my fingers wasn't going away so I went to the doctor, and I apparently have a compressed ulnar nerve. Shit sucks. Anyway the doctor said to quit biking for a while (yeah right) so I'm wondering if anyone has any tips for riding on an injured hand? I just got my bike fitted professionally, which definitely helped, and I am trying to ride on the tops with my weight shifted back onto my saddle as much as possible.
>>
>>1155845
Non-meme answer.
Foot retention is basically required
>For a lock down skid stop.
Put all you weight forward as you can to unload the rear wheel, lock the rear then ease your wieght back to modulate braking force.
>For a quick speed check
Same as before but stay forward and hop the rear up and down basically doing a mini Endo repeatedly
>Easing to a stop
Put all your weight on the pedal Durning it's up stroke switching from side to side.
Also Put a front brake on that thing. Street cred will seem like a really dumb concept when your stuck in the hospital.
I went through my fixie phase and I enjoyed it, but I use bike for more practical reasons now.
>>
>>1155888
23.15lbs pedals on. I could probably get it down to 22 with a few upgrades.
It wasn't shit (the handlebar is pretty cool, only 240g), but nothing top-tier by the 80's.
They had sub-20lb bikes in the 60's.
>>
>>1155891
what does this have to do with shopping for tires?
>>
>>1155890
Physio/Physical Therapy student here to help you out. First off, yes I would actually listen to the doc. But of course you won't so at the very least, damn well make sure you keep your wrists neutral(not cocked, flexed, or extended in anyway whatsoever) or you'll just continue compressing the shit out of your ulnar nerve. Get some padded gloves.

Worst case scenario is your nerve entrapment gets so bad that they can no longer provide innervation(signals to contract) to its specific muscles, which is a good portion of your forearm...which will lead to eventual wasting away.

If you're feeling numb right now, the nerve will decompress with rest and as the swelling goes down. As it decompresses you will start to feel it shift from numbness to PAIN which is a GOOD thing. That means you're getting better.
>>
>>1155873
Sell you bike for $60 and buy this stolen bianchi.
https://stockton.craigslist.org/bik/d/bianchi-fixie-bike/6466909318.html
>>
>>1155893
Fuck
>>1155891
This was for
>>1155854
>>
>>1155888
>>1155892
my '87 Miyata 312 has a listed factory weight of 24.8 lbs, which seemed about what I got when I lifted it on my cheap luggage scale. And the 312 was the base model. The 5,7,and 912 all had better components and presumably lighter
>>
>>1155894
Thanks for the help. I've been trying to keep my wrist straight and to avoid putting any weight on it or gripping too hard with it. I don't think it's too bad though because I haven't lost sensation in my hand, just mobility in my fingers. (I can't adduct them, or something.)
>>
>>1155873
Dude I don't care if you have to rob a gas station buy this shit.
https://stockton.craigslist.org/bik/d/canondale-for-sale/6417723680.html
>>
>>1155903
COLLECTABLE!
>>
>>1155903
I'm still lurking this thread. Is a Cannondale that good?

I'm having second thoughts about meeting up for that Univega bike. The dude lives on the sketchiest part of town and speaks in broken English, I feel like the bike was stolen. When I bought that yellow Bridgestone bike, it was from a kind old man who told me that he retired and just enjoys restoring bikes for fun. That's the kinda guy I wanna buy bikes from.
>>
>>1155905
He's memeing.
>>
>>1155905
the Cannondale Delta 1000 is one of the biggest memes on this board. It's not a bad bike but there are good reasons not to buy it. See
>>1138800
>>
>>1155856
But it's a fixie

>>1155861
I have a brake

>>1155891
>Foot retention is basically required
It's awkward to get my foot into foot retention when the pedal is spinning around.
>Put all you weight forward as you can to unload the rear wheel, lock the rear then ease your wieght back to modulate braking force.
>etc
I have a brake.

It's the spinning cranks I'm having a problem with. I'm used to push down, coast, get foot into foot retention, then coast to a stop and put my foot down.
>>
>>1155901
Adduction is the movement of bringing your fingers back in together after spreading them apart(abduction). So your sensation is intact but you can't actively move it because of pain or because they just won't respond at all?
>>
>>1155912
riding a fixed gear with no foot retention is like not using your clutch to shift a manual transmission. everyone does it because that's how they were designed and you'd rightly be called a complete idiot for not using it. you might be able to just jam the shifter but it would be dangerous and you'll wreck your shit.
tl;dr git gud
or, switch to SS if you want to coast
>>
>>1155912
>But it's a fixie
Fixies can (should) have flip-flop hubs.
>It's awkward to get my foot into foot retention when the pedal is spinning around.
Git gud.
>>
>>1155913
Because they just won't respond. At first it was all my fingers but now it's just my pinky and ring fingers. I can flex them straight but can't bend them at the knuckle without also bending the other joints (I.e. I can't bend them forwards from the knuckle while keeping them flexed straight) and I can't abduct or adduct them at all.
>>
>>1155916
I had this happen after a week long tour, it took 1.5 month for feeling and function to return and the doctor said it might not ever come back. Proper fit is no joke
>>
>>1155918
Did you stop riding during that time or just change your riding form?
>>
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>>1155905
>>1155907
>>1155911

> Is a Cannondale that good?

90'S mountain bikes have terrible terrible geometry. I was there. I rode them. Prove me wrong. Alot of them the rider is positioned over the top tube like a road bike. It was only when shaun palmer pushed the MX influence of relaxed geometry, sloped top tubes, shorter stems and riser bars did mountain bikes get gud.

Also i owned a Super V in the early 00's and you kids just dont know what you are getting yourself into with those headshocks. They ran on this this giant stack of needle bearings that were an expensive nightmare to service, resulting in them not getting serviced at all. Have no idea what state they would be in today.

The 90's mtb /n/ meme applies to well made name brand rigids that you get for close to free and ride on. Paying for big bucks for a depreciated worn out complex maintenance intensive piece of metalurgy does not make sense.

Disclaimer: I own a DAT walkman and Lancia Delta. I know of mans folly.
>>
>>1155919
I got some of those gel pads that go under the bartape and bought some handle bars that were a proper width.
>>
>>1155914
>>1155915
I'm asking for advice for gitting gud though.
>>
>>1155922
It really is just git gud. You are going to look like an idiot and you are going to eat shit at a stop light. You might as well rip the band-aid off.
>>
>>1155916
>>1155918
Listen to this guy since he's an unfortunate result of what could possibly go wrong. Important things are to limit putting your squishy bits of your palm on your bars for a long period of time. Nerve tissue is generally permanent. If severe enough, it doesn't heal well like your skin after a cut, it can develop scar tissue.
>>
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>>1155890
I've been looking into vibration dampening options for a gravel bike. You could get vibration dampening silicon tape. ESI makes some. They're are also gel inserts like pic related. Then there's the redshift stem that will save your wrist from taking big hits.

Last option if you think the pain is going to be around for a while: build a 650b fat tire allroad bike... Low pressure tires will do more than all of that stuff above... Or be combined with them.

Not sure if that will save your wrist, you should check what the mtbr.com guys say about hand injuries I suspect they know more than three road guys, could be wrong. Roadbikereview forums seem like a smart crowd

You could temporarily shift your weight to your ass instead of wrists with some fit adjustments too. Are you sure your guy didn't cause this injury? Maybe he's an idiot! I found setting my saddle really far back forced me to rely on my core muscles for support and greatly improved comfort in general. I'm no for expert but keeping weight off your hands seems like the right way to go, so in this case jacking up your stem might be counter intuitive
>>
>>1155905
>The dude lives on the sketchiest part of town and speaks in broken English, I feel like the bike was stolen. When I bought that yellow Bridgestone bike, it was from a kind old man who told me that he retired and just enjoys restoring bikes for fun. That's the kinda guy I wanna buy bikes from.
god you're a fucking pussy retard. You're buying a $60 bike and you're scared of poor people.
>>
>>1155920
>Disclaimer: I own a Lancia Delta

PICS WITH A BICYCLE PLEASE
>>
currently running a fixed ratio of 48/15,l really want to learn how to wheelie for fun but i think my ratio is too aggressive. can anyone recommend a good balanced ratio for commuting a few miles a day/doing wheelies ?
>>
>>1156001
i kinda dig this. please level and wrap your bars.
>>
Where are all the fixiefags coming from? No offence but I left the board for a few months and the contrast is shocking. They used to be pariahs and few.
>>
>>1156001
also wondering what pedals + velcro straps people use for fixed gear. i feel like normal bmx pedals would bite the ground when turning
>>
>>1156003
thanks, bars look weird in pictures, they are actually level, gonna wrap them this weekend.
>>
>>1156001
keep in mind skid patches seeing as you don't have a front brake. The number of skid patches you get is the denominator of the simplest form of your ratio
so 48/15
is 16/5
so 5 skid patches, good

you probably already know this but yeah
>>
>>1156008
i didn’t know that! thanks for the info.
>>
What sort of fitness stats do you need to start doing crit races and stuff? I mean in terms of keeping up with the pack and having a solid finish. Also at the beginner level, does having an expensive carbon bike really make a big difference?
>>
>>1156079
You need to be able to ride hard for what, 30-60 minutes? Be able to do a lot of explosive accelerating out of corners and also have decent bike handling to draft well in the pack.

An expensive carbon bike will help a little sure, but training is what's going to get you up there. The best bike is the one you actually ride.
>>
>>1156079
Since you're asking I'm going to assume you that don't have a cycling group, and recommend that you find one where you live, even if it's just for weekend rides. There's more to racing than pushing pedals, and if you join a race (specially a crit) without knowing how to ride in a pack you're likely to look like a douchebag and endanger yourself and others.
>>
>>1154459
You could just get one of Nitto's offerings. Their M1 rack sounds like it would fit your needs and can be made to fit any fork.
>>
My chain ring bolts keep coming loose and rattling around. I'm afraid I'm going to lose one one of these days.
Am I doing something wrong? is there some special technique for tightening chain ring bolts properly?
The previous owner of the bike converted it to a 1x, if that makes any difference.
>>
>>1156131
Thread locker
>>
>>1156131
I use truvativ steel bolts that have hex holes in both sides. Very easy to get tight, work with 1x and 2x
>>
>>1156131
This may sound like an obvious question, but are you holding the bolts in place from behind while tightening them?
>>
>>1156131
Btw, you using a spanner?
>>
>>1156136
>>1156137
I use a flathead screw driver from the back and an allen key from the front.
>>
>>1156131
Double chainring bolts are longer than single chainring bolts
>>
>>1156005
Cheap Wellgo pedals with cheap plastic toe cages and nylon straps,
>>
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>>1153473
>be me
>be fat
>like pic related
>pic related isn't me though
>want to learn to unicycle
>no idea how to choose a unicycle
>$100 budget, would rather go under
can anyone offer me some advice? i can pedal a regular bicycle several miles comfortably, even though i am fat, and a unicycle just seems fun
>>
>>1156209
fuck i left my trip on from /out/ again
>>
>>1156209
>>1156211
Unicycles aren't tra/n/sportation, go ask /asp/
>>
>>1156213
i'll go to /asp/ but i did see this video that begs to differ on unicycles not being transportation
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6h98gCgxyo
>>
>>1155854
You either use a brake, or you skid. Or both.

Try a front brake and then skid stop the rear.

Also, you want clips or clipless.
>>
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>>1156213
/asp/ told me to come here
>>
>>1156214
ever hear of cmd-F? it's the same fucking thread.
ask this guy
>>1155739
>>
>>1156246
It's a good transport if you're good at it and can adapt or learn your terrain very quickly. Otherwise you end up physically disabled like me OMEGALUL
>>
>>1155739
how much to buy your old unicycle?
>>
>>1156224
I have that stuff. You guy's aren't answering my questions at all. The problem is dealing with rotating cranks.
>>
>>1156268
It's literally just git gud. That or stop and start against a wall and never git gud. Also learn to trackstand and practice until it's effortless and you can do it no-hands.

If you want to read long essays on how to mount and dismount a fucking bicycle and other absurdly elaborated on drivel check out sheldonbrown.com
>>
>>1156276
>Also learn to trackstand and practice until it's effortless and you can do it no-hands.
I don't get how. Every guide says put the same foot forward every time. That means you can only stop every 20 feet or so. I don't see how I can magically end up in trackstand crank position without skidding to where I want to stop and nailing it with the handbrake. None of this advice makes any sense.

Are you seriously saying stop 20 feet away from a stop light, or figure out how to skid to exactly the right spot?
>>
>>1156279
do you put all your weight on the front when you try and skid? get out of the saddle, and basically try to hump your stem, it will take all the weight off of your back tire and let it break traction much more easily
>>
>>1156283
I use the handbrake because I like having tires.
>>
>>1156284
tires are for wimps, run empty rims like a man
>>
Stupid question. Seriously considering building up a bike from the frame up for the first time as a learning experience. Other than truing wheels and pressing in a BB, are there any other special tools I’d need?
>>
>>1156306
http://www.flocycling.com/FLO_Road_Bike_ebook.zip
None I can think of that can't be made ghetto style. Here's a pretty good guide on how to build a bike.
>>
>>1156320
*also, consider buying their wheels/rims (FLO), I hear they're excellent bang for your buck and pretty unique
t. jelly Yuropoor (would have to pay a ton to import them)
>>
>>1156306
You dont need a truing stand, just flip the bike upside down and ghetto rig a zip tie to your fork and chainstay and spin the wheels
>>
Hey guys, I could use some help finding a bike on cl. I'm an average height guy and I'm mostly going to be using my bike to commute on the road. I think a road bike makes sense.

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/search/bik
>>
>>1156446
>https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/pougeut/6453487324.html
Assuming it works and fits you. It's a racing Peugeot from the 80's with Campagnolo gruppo (pz10d). Worst case scenario you can clean it up and put it back up for $200-500 (Peugeot OTS have high meme value).
>>
Is there some sort of guide or site to give further context and insight on bike geometry? I can understand stack and reach in terms of fit, but everything else not so much. There’s broad descriptions but no included parameters/ranges that indicate ok this frame has more of a relaxed geometry while because the frame has these numbers this is more for aero and road racing
>>
>>1156507
This seems to sum thing up fairly well (didn't read it all, just skimmed), it explains what the various factors are and what they effect.

https://www.cyclingabout.com/understanding-bicycle-frame-geometry/
>>
How the fuck do people ride road bikes?
I got one for free >>1154834 and took it on a quick 10 miles ride about town to get a feel for it today and its unstable as fuck, I can't indicate without wobbling all over the road and I spent an hour setting up the brakes but they feel like cream cheese from on top of the hoods, I can only get full power by grabbing the front of the drops and using three fingers to apply them
>>
>>1156513
It's like learning how to ride a bike. You just gotta do it until you git gud. The braking part is right. Braking is where the biggest difference in quality between cheap and expensive bikes is; thankfully, it is cheap and easy to upgrade.
>>
12s group sets when?
>>
>https://toronto.craigslist.ca/tor/bik/d/cycletech-elite-mountain-bike/6487569024.html
Is 250$ a crazy price for that bike?
>>
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>>1157837
Yes, offer him 1/2 and not a cent more if you like the color.
>>
my pedal just came loose but its still stuck in the crank
like I can try and unscrew it but it just spins in place

any ideas how to get it out and inspect the bearings? hopefully it's just the pedal bearings that have gotten stripped but I guess not. Just replace the whole crankset?
>>
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So i need your help /n/
I noticed that one of the metal plugs has fallen off my chainring. Does this matter? what are their purpose, and where can i get a new one, if it does matter??
> image: the missing part is marked with a blue arrow.




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