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Any good resources on how to raise animals 100% from your own land? No salt blocks, store bought grain, no medication, etc.

Norther hemisphere specifically.
>>
>>1153609
grow corn and hay
that's it

maybe plant some radishes somewhere to feed the deer
>>
>>1153609
Feed your animals faggot. It's like 10 bucks for a 50 lb bag of chicken feed that would feed 50 chickens for 4 days which would be 150-200 eggs if they are a production breed. So it would be well worth the 10 dollars. You can skip on the medication if you just quarantine any sick animals and give them some kind of herbal medication. Oregano is supposed to do wonders for chickens.
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>>1153609
Never had the need to buy medicine for chickens. Just make sure you clean their pen once in a while and isolate and aid any sick animals (like washing/feeding them, keeping them warm, etc). Would recommend to have maximum 2 roosters so they dont scratch up each other or the chicks, open wounds are an easy way to get sick. Lots of people seem to forget that roosters scratch up the backs of the chicks when they mate, so it is important to have like at least 3-4 chicks per rooster so he doesn't scratch one of them all the time. This goes for pretty much any poultry.
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>>1153609
There's a containment thread for this. See: >>1142523
>>
>>1153609
>No salt blocks
>No medication
>Grass only
>Final destination
>>
>>1153637
No, fuck you. It's a specific outist topic. It deserves its own thread.

Self sufficiency and independence is like the most important topic.
>>
>>1153869
Those are not /out/ topics. Get the fuck out of here

>Self sufficiency and independence is like the most important topic.
>>
>>1153869
>Self sufficiency and independence is like the most important topic.

What do you think is going on in >>1142523 but also that is basically >>>/diy/ stuff too. Though, you are more than likely to get directed to the Homegrowmen threads from /diy/ anyway. lol
>>
>>1153632
Also, feed them whatever food waste you have, they'll eat most of it. the rest goes in the compost.
>>
OP, if you use your model you could only do ruminants, and then you'd have to just make sure you had enough forage for the time you wanted them. No over wintering (if you're not buying food or making hay). Seems like buy cheap goats or lambs in the spring and keep them until October.
>>
>>1154746

The plan is to over winter a breeding pair of animals while butchering the children.

How diverse do non ruminant diets need to be? Example, squash preserve for months, potatoes too etc. Could I feed pigs just those long preserving foods over winter?
>>
>>1153609
see: >>1155539
>>
Step 1: Buy chickens.
Step 2: There is no other step.
>>
Gosh anon you picked a gigantic topic, even within the larger topic of small farm livestock.

Lets just address food for now.

First you need an efficient animal. This basically rules out your standard cow. It needs to convert food well and not need lots of it. You could consider dexter cows or yaks, possibly highland cows but I'm not too familiar with them. Yaks are extremely efficient and hardy and yield quality meat and fiber also.

Next you need paddocks so you can rotate them, and you will need to either be able to grow a winter crop that they can eat (warmer areas) or harvest enough hay and forage for them during the summer months...see where I'm going with this? You would need at least several acres. And with the state of most land that is affordable to most people, you would have to improve your soil and whats growing on it which takes time to do right.

Chickens would be easy. They mostly self sustain in the summer. For winter, grow things like millet and similar plants in summer. Wrap in chicken wire to 'contain' them and keep the chickens out. You can open these up throughout the year for the chickens to eat on, and then harvest the rest for winter use. Avoid any grains you'd have to process.

My current setup is three alpacas and six chickens. Chickens free range. Alpacas have one dedicated paddock with their shed which I will enlarge next year to about a half acre or so, plus my orchard which I will be planting grass in and grazing them ocassionally. Chickens will eventually be relegated to the orchard.

My end goal is to either paddock several areas for the alpacas, and move them around, or fence in most of my 5 acres and then just build fence/walls where I _don't_ want them.

(cont)
>>
>>1159445
continuing...

Now, beyond that, alpacas are not my end goal. They were free, and they're an intermediate. I intend to have either a breeding pair of yaks or either goats or dexter/highland cows for dairy. But the alpacas are pretty self reliant, and they produce a high quality manure while they eat down my brush. As I move them around I will come behind them, cut down what's left of the brush and weeds, then burn, distribute manure/mulch, then plant a good grass mix for my soil type and help it get established. I'll be using chickens at different stages for further soil improvement and weed control. This will establish, hopefully, decent grazing for my end goal stock.

I may keep the alpacas also. I need to study grazing rotation more.

Anyway, so you see that even on my second year of livestock I still have at least two or three more years as a small land holder to even get my land capable of sustaining a small herd of anything.

I'm not saying you can't do it, but its work and you have to study this stuff.

As far as hay goes, planting it is the easy part. I could harvest hay, but I live on a hill. I'd be scything the entire harvest. Which isn't really that bad, but again, it'd take time. You would either need a scythe or a machine. Most people will find a neighbor who does haying in the summer and pay them since it's more economical than buying and maintaining your own.

As far as minerals and medication: you either have minerals or you don't. If they aren't finding it in your soil, you'll have to just get a supplement. For medication, I've never done much medicating. A free range chicken of a sturdy breed (like Wyandottes, my favorite) is remarkably hardy. The most I've done is spray them with a wound protection spray when they've gotten hurt (Blue Kote), or neem oil in their coop the time I tried to use straw and they got mites. Don't buy into chickens that are bred to be weak. Better to get a few less eggs and have them be hassle free.
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>>1159446
Also, if you have any sort of chicken or other fowl: give them shrubs and trees to hide under. Some of these will even provide a food source for them. If they are able to hide and you've bought a good breed (again, avoid any bird that's bred for 'production' in my opinion), and you just leave them alone to free range, they will be able to avoid predatory birds. I routinely have hawks and even eagles that circle my hill top all summer long, but because I let my chickens exercise instinct and give them concealment, I have never lost a single bird.




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