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File: 3835893861_f66cd015f8_b.jpg (262 KB, 1024x683)
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Is medium format + flatbed scanner any better than professionally scanned 35mm? My 35mm scanned on a v700 looked terrible so I went back to get it scanned by the lab.
>>
All film related questions and general film discussion is to take place in this thread.
Old thread >>3270135
>>
>>3275615
Has anyone done any double exposures with the fp100c?

Can someone talk me through the process? I know how to operate the gear, but I'm wondering about exposure and how much time I can have between each exposure - for instance, can I shoot some flowers or some shit, and then take a portrait a day later on the same polaroid?
>>
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>>3275615
for reference, here are some of my lab scans. contax t2 and ektar.

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>>3275622

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File: 08-028.jpg (266 KB, 716x1080)
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>>3275623
contax t2 review: it's a meme for a reason. pretty nice

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so I had a stupid idea last week...

just got my box 14"x36" xray film and sliced out a 61mm x 80cm strip to tape into a 120 roll

it was insanely awkward and took like an hour total, but the roll seems okay

will shoot tomorrow and post results

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File: img003.jpg (218 KB, 626x1000)
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>>3275622
I just shot a roll of Ektar through a TVS II, I'm scanning myself but I'm still figuring it out.

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File: img260.jpg (606 KB, 1000x632)
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>>3275631

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Bit of OG Velvia to get the thread going

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File: web.jpg (1.21 MB, 994x1500)
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>>3275660
Velvia 50 again but in little bitch baby format

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File: 001968800025.jpg (1.21 MB, 1565x1037)
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Thoughts?

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>>
>>3275707
snapshit
>>
How do you guys decide whether to use a roll of color or b/w film?

I want to do mere b/w, but im very used to to color, so, I keep just picking a color roll from the stash before going out.
>>
>>3275660
Wow, I wouldn't have guessed you can shoot something like this with slide film withough over-/underexposing some parts.
>>
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>>3275660
>>3275733
Not him, but It seems slightly underexposed though. Half a stop or 2/3.

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>>
Un-burying from the other thread because that retard OP didn't make a proper general (>>3275518)
>Bros I shot with a 100mm wide open at f2.5 for dat bokeh and half my roll came out mis-focused.
>Subjects were not stationary and I wanted to capture the moment so I focused fairly quickly. Is focusing supposed to be that hard? Does it get better with practice?
>>
>>3275746
DOF
O
F
>>
XP2 or HP5
>>
>>3275753
HP5
>>
>>3275753

XP2 is a c41 film. No reason to use it over b&w unless you can't dev the b&w yourself/can't get it deved where you are.
>>
How am I supposed to go back to 35mm once I've discovered medium format?
>>
File: IMG_20180414_204132_451.jpg (3.66 MB, 3936x3936)
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Post film stash
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>>3275766

I got 20 rolls of Natura in my desk.

That is it. Rest of the the films I like I have shot through already (400x, last roll a week ago) or is still in production.
>>
I wonder if anyone would know what the fuck is wrong with my Canon A-1

When I have the aperture ring on my lens set to "A", the display in the view finder comes up with an error code "EEEEEE".
I know it's a common problem and everyone says it can be fixed by flicking the multiple exposure lever then winding the film advance. But it still does nothing.

The only way the camera works is by having the lens off the "A" mode
>>
>>3275766
damn bitch u live like this?
when are you going to shoot all that?
post empty canisters of a week
>>
What's a good lens for landscapes on 35mm?

I have a canon 50mm 1:1.4 and anything with infinity focus looks like fucking ass
>>
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>>3275768
That's a good film to have! Not good to have only that tho

>>3275778
Hoping to not buy film for the next few years. Fuji's exit from roll film had me stocking up more than i otherwise would. Here's my current 63 roll dev backlog. All of it was shot since December. Buying an e6 kit this week.

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>>3275781
not bad. I wish I had the time/money to shoot that much. Provia ur favourite?
>>
>>3275781
>Not good to have only that tho

Everything else I buy when I need.

Mostly shoot a Premium 400. Some Provia 100F if it is Sunny.
>>
>>3275745
Yeah you're right. I usually expose off the sky when shooting out in the mountains. Snow is kinda tricky to meter as it's very reflective
>>
>>3275617
Like with any film, latent image stability is only an issue of you keep undeveloped for months or years. A day is nothing compared to that, even for sensitive processes like instant.
>>
>>3275532
>>
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I've been scanning one of the popular auction sites for beginner's MF camera. It's kind of tricky for me to know if the price is right. I was searching for the usual suspects, Rolleicord, Yashica 124 G, Mamiya 6, Pentacon Six TL.

Which camera, not necessairly listed above, could I get for $150-200, in working condition, without nasty surprises and fungus?

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Here's a recent photo. It's an old cemetery in the Australian desert; I've been taking photos of them a lot, lately.

Waaay off in the back, just left of centre, you can see 3 graves belonging to Afghan residents or passers-by who probably worked in the camel transport industry. Their headstones face Mecca and their graves are a considerable distance from any others.

Fuji GF670 - Portra 400

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>>
File: ss.png (1.66 MB, 1000x657)
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>>3275957
and here's an extreme closeup of the original scan. Currently using a Noritsu S4. I'm really happy with the results.
>>
>>3275625

Yeah, T2 is a meme and stupid expensive these days but still amazing. I'd never sell mine. You lab scans have some dust and stuff on them.

>>3275615
I find flatbeds aren't the greatest for 35mm, things usually look pretty soft. Ive seen some good results here and there, but ultimately I'd say MF + V700 is better. I think betterscanning glass helps though.

>>3275729
It's all preference. I shoot colour 95% of the time, simply because I prefer it and I have the option to convert to B&W if I want to later. I feel like you either primarily shoot colour, or primarily shoot B&W. Each follow a different shooting style, so it's a bit tricky to switch between the two and keep things consistent.

>>3275766
Nice. Natura stash is healthy, and 400VC is great.

>>3275946
There isn't a lot MF wise in that price range, definitely not a Mamiya 6. Check out the Mamiya RB/RZ or Bronica SQA. Bronica is a great option, and is always overlooked. You should be able to find a kit for $300 or so.
>>
>>3275960
V nice.

Do you own the S4, or just use a lab that has one? Either way, great scanner.
>>
>>3275961
Thanks! I wanted to avoid modular cameras, they are a bit too big and too heavy to carry them around, hence my interest in TLRs and folders mainly.
>>
>>3275984
Gotcha.

If you like the 6x4.5 format, check out the Fuji GA645/GS645. I shoot with the GA645, and it's great to carry around. I'll daily carry it and have no complaints.
>>
Looking into picking up my first medium format, is a Pentacon Six TL w/ Biometer 80mm f2.8 for 100 euros a good deal?
>>
File: color perfect scaled.jpg (736 KB, 1342x2000)
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Decided to try out Color Perfect this week. I'm pretty happy with the results I got testing right away. Decided to buy it and I'm happy with how images come out.

The user interface of Color Perfect is the worst I have used in ages.

This is some 35mm Portra 160, scanned with an A6000 and the cheap 30mm macro.

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>>
File: img322.jpg (1.04 MB, 1200x1500)
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First for GA645W snaps

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>>3276083

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Filmfriends do you use polarizers when shooting?
>>
>>3276093
Sometimes
>>
>>3276074
unreliable. get mamiya tlr or yashica.
>>
>>3275775
ASA wire?
>>
>>3276083
I like this one!
>>
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first try scanning negatives myself and starting to edit a tiny bit with lightroom

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>>3275707
uninteresting and extremely low quality scan
>>
>>3276100
It's a beautiful camera with a nice lens. For that price I'd go for it.
>>
File: DSC01189FTn55mmSuper100.jpg (1.03 MB, 1623x1080)
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yfw 40+yo 35mm camera and lense on expired film

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>>
>>3276308
mooloolaba?
>>
File: DSC01210FTn55mmSuper100.jpg (653 KB, 1620x1080)
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>>3276308
"boke is a meme" they said...

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>>
File: DSC01191FTn55mmSuper100.jpg (731 KB, 1068x1479)
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>>3276309
nah cunt

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>>
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>>3276309
never heard of the place

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>>
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>>3276316
>>3276321
hmmm

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>>3275765
You would be surprised by how many people swear they will never shoot 35mm again who do just that
>>
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>>3275615

>ga645zi

How is it? Been trying to talk myself into one as a first MF camera, but I am unsure of it.

How is the autofocus? Anything I should look our for when buying one?
>>
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Last shot on a ussr rangefinder, before it got fubar. Still can't find the problem. No editing or half-winding shutter. Thoughts?

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>>3276349
>How is the autofocus?
Slow, but accurate.

Used to have a GA645Wi. Amazing optics and compact size, but completely battery dependent. I use my GSW690III way more.
>>
>>3276421

How slow is slow? Like other AF cameras of the time? Or effectively unusable slow like the Fuji x100?

I considered that model too, bigger is better right? But I am worried it would be way too big.
>>
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>>3276427
>How slow is slow? Like other AF cameras of the time
Probably. I only used it for stationary subjects. Similar to Olympus compacts, like Mju II etc.

As fot the 6x9 Fujis; I can carry it in the same bag I used for the 645, with three 5-packs of film, lightmeter, shutter cable, a digital wristwatch for long exposures and 2 filters. You can probably cram more in there.

Pic related. The bag I sometimes use.
>>
>>3276447

That bag is only a tad larger than mine. I thought I had decided on a body and now you are making this harder.

Why the lightener? Is the built in one bad?
>>
>>3276236
would be nice if she was in focus
>>
>>3276451

Errr... that is supposed to say light meter, fucking autocorrect.
>>
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What's a good low contrast B&W film. Looking for something similar to the attached.

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>>
>>3276485
Acros. +1 stop for looow contrast.
>>
>>3276451
>>3276454
Fuji 6x9s does not have a lightmeter. No batteries required. Also

external spotmeter > built in meters
>>
>>3276485
Acros or Delta 100 in pyrocat-HD
>>
two questions: Where do y'all buy your film online?

and, is fuji c200 good? Its cheap as hell and it would be nice to have a few rolls to just use when im bored.
>>
>>3276074
It's a good deal and a good lens and camera.

The Biometar is *identical* to the early f/2.8 Planars, like the ones used in Rolleiflexes etc.
It's a quite better design than the f/3.5 Tessars and their clones used in almost every other TLR (Yashica, Meopta, slower Rolleiflexes, Minoltas, etc.).
Faster, sharper and contrastier wide open, with less field curvature and astigmatism.

Think of it like that: with $100 you could buy a good 35mm SLR, or you can go medium format with a really good lens (and also access to other amazing, and cheap, lenses like the180mm f/2.8 Sonnar).

My opinion is, go for it.
>>
>>3275615
Best Film for shooting milky way?

Any other tips for shooting? Thanks
>>
>>3276551

Depends where you live. B&H and Adorama seem like decent spots for the US. Buyfilm.ca and Downtown Camera for those in Canadaland.

c200 is fine for a cheap film. I personally prefer Kodak Gold for a budget film.
>>
Scored an AE-1 with a broken rewind shaft for $20. I have a replacement shaft already. There's a million tutorials on taking the knob off, which I've done, and removed the plastic cover off. But there are no tutorials on actually removing the rewind shaft.

How the fuck do I get it out?
>>
>>3276553
Thanks for the advice anon. I looked around and found an MC Sonnar 180mm f/2.8 and a Jupiter 36V 250mm f/3.5 for sale, each for 120 euros. Thinking about picking up the former, is that a good deal?
>>
>>3276485
Your favourite film in a low contrast developer?
Fast films in rodinal are pretty low contrast.
>>
>>3276564
fuji>>>>>>>>>>>kodak
>>
>>3276008
I was leaning more towards 6x6 which leads me to TLRs and folding cameras, if I want to keep it light.
Fuji has some nice stuff, but for now it wouldn't be wise to spend so much money. Or maybe it is only me, getting auctions mainly from Japan with exorbitant shipping costs.
>>
>>3276631
You don't know what you're talking about mate
>>
>>3276377
Get rid of it and buy similar one.
>>
>>3276648
kodakfags are the worst.
>>
>>3276377
Had a similar thing.

Check the winding sprocket is properly engaging. Had a camera where this got stuck on rewind and it advance through a full roll of film at intervals of between 1 1/2 and a 1/2 frame depending on the tension in the system.

It was only obvious when the camera kept winding on past 39 shots that something had failed inside the camera.
>>
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is this a good buy ive been seeing good reviews things for this model

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>>
is a kyocera t zoom just as good as its t3/t4 counterparts?
>>
>>3276631
So far I've almost always been happy with how my Kodak films came out. Something that can't be said for Fuji films.
I guess different people prefer different things.
>>
>>3276600
>Thinking about picking up the former, is that a good deal?
Definitely, especially if it's in good condition. Fantastic portrait lens, with one of the smoothest oof renditions.
>>
>>3276668
In my experience, kodak gold is warmer, somewhat resembling portra.

Fuji superia has fuji greens.
>>
I shot a c200 overexposed by 1.5 stop because the internet told me that I get hipster pastel colorsb but it came like shit.
I even managed to blow the highlights.
Is it the film's fault?
>>
What 120 film do you use for indoors at conventions?
>>
>>3276590
You should be able to find the service manual online.
>>
>tfw you develop your first 120 film and realize you wasted all your money on 35mm
>>
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Post ur GAs faggots

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>>
1 year old expired film should be fine right? looking at getting some since it's a bit cheaper
>>
>>3276631
my lab has discounts on kodak and it kills me because I prefer my green-biased bae
>>
>>3276725
I'll be fine. Depends on how it was stored. If you want super-accurate colours, then I wouldn't play with expired films, but for regular stuff its fine. Push it if you want
>>
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Found pic related any advice/comments on the J7

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>>
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>>3276723
Sold mine, but here's a picture made with it. E100VS

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Just got a vivitar XC-4 with a 50mm f/1.9 and a 2x-1 automatic tele-converter for $13 at a thrift store. was this a good deal?
>>
>>3276701
Is Lomo film as shit as I've heard?

What the hell is it actually based on? Is it their own or is it made by someone for them?
>>
>>3276775
it also came with a vivitar xc-a auto exposure contol
>>
>>3276786
Their film isn't that bad
>>
>>3276786
Expired old stock.
>>
>>3276698

It could be the scanning process you used.

>>3276726
Downtown Camera?

>>3276725
For one year you probably won't notice that much colour shift. If you buy a few rolls, store them in the fridge/freezer until you need them.

>>3276723
No picture of my GA645, but here's a photo I took with it.
>>
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>>3276786

Some of their shit is neat.

Lomo Purple is pretty cool.

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>>
is a v600 good enough to scan 120 & 35mm film?
>>
>>3276801
>Downtown Camera?
You know it. It was kinda nice when first getting into it, because the 15% markdown on film is nice, but now I just look at pro 400h (my current favourite) and feel guilty (when its really what I want to shoot)
>>
>>3276814
Everything from my big dumb thread is v600 scanned: >>3275334
120 turns out really well, I wouldn’t print huge from 35mm but it’s fine for web posting.

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>>3276772
Go home zenz ur drunk
>>
>>3276775
I got a very similar one also at a thrift store. Seems well built though I haven't developed anything from it yet. m42 is a good mount.
>>
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>>3276962
Not me, I haven't owned e100vs in years.

Bought some e6 chems! Any e6 home devers here?

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>>3275660
>>3275663
This guy again.

Didn't realise when I shot it, but I managed to line up 2 6x6 shots pretty well. Here it is, thought it might be of interest

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>>3276992
God damn, e6 + snow is seriously magic.
>>
>>3276992
That's a pretty good line up. You can easily fill in the rest with photoshop.
>>
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>>3276994
Yeah snow's a good subject for slide as it's often a very similar brightness as the sky cause it's ultra reflective. Also 35mm slides come out looking like all the mountaineering/skiing magazines I read as a kid

>>3276998
Yeah I think I just turned on the spot when I took the two photos. Good proof of concept, now it's something I know I can do on purpose

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>>3276992
>>3276998
not him

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>>3277002
Nice, thanks for that. I suck at photoshop - did you content aware fill the gaps?
>>
>>3276962
Got 10 rolls of E100VS in 120 and 5 rolls of it in 220 on ebay for same price as velvia. Expired, but frozen.

Not sure which film I like more. E100VS seems a little warmer than velvia, but velvia is somewhat richer.
>>
>>3277003
Yes. Content aware fill and spot heal brush. Coulde've done it better. Just wanted to try my hand at it.
>>
>>3277003
not >>3277002 either, but wand select the white pixels, expand by 3 pixels, fill > content aware. The patterns are very simple in the missing places, just sky and snow, so photoshop can do this easily.
>>
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>>3277005
>>3277006
Nice, thanks lads. Gonna do it properly once I get the slides back from the lab and can make some big dick scans

While you lot are here - anyone know if these light leaks are coming from the roll or the camera?

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>>3277004
God damn I love e100vs. If you'd be interested in selling/trading let me know.

I have Velvia 100 in 220.
>>
>>3277013
I have some Velvia 100 in 220 as well. Don't really like it. Hope to trade it for Velvia 50 or some Acros.

Meant velvia 50 in previous post.
>>
>>3276836
Yeah I know what you mean. I've shifted mostly to Kodak now anyways. Especially since Fuji is moving outta the film game. I'd rather spend my money on brands that are trying to stick around.

I do miss 400H though. Getting through my last couple rolls recently.
>>
>>3277010
I would think it's from the film back. Might need to replace the seals. Or just throw some black tape around it.
>>
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New lens arrived today.. although I was looking for a 90mm, I got a Biogon 35mm f/2 for a steal and had to test it with the rest of the roll. I'm in love with it.
Colorplus 200 at boxspeed in tetenal kit.

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>>3277071
Lovely background rendition
>>
>>3277102
Yeah, it's a nice lens. Guess I'm selling my Skopar. Thought about keeping both since the Skopar is so tiny and portable, but after seeing the results of the Biogon, there's little reason to keep/use the Skopar.
>>
>>3275615
Question for darkroomfags: I was thinking about changing the default bulb of my enlarger to LED, has anyone done this? How did you solve the colour temperature problem? Did you go for a higher lumen count LED bulb?

Pic related is my DR setup, taken with a horrible Aliexpress smartphone clip on lens because my DR is so small I couldn't get it in one photo otherwise.
>>
>>3277163
4000K and higher temperature works fine.
>>
>>3277168
Thanks. And light intensity? My guess would be 'the brighter the better', since LEDs have negligible heat buildup compared to halogen
>>
Hey /fgt/, I picked up a Kodak jiffy. The bellows and size of the film are both firsts for me. I saw that 620 is still being produced so I was planning on grabbing the variety box from the film photography project. Any tips on actually shooting with it? Can I hand hold it or do I have to use a tripod
>>
>>3277184
>. I saw that 620 is still being produced

No
>>
>>3277190
b-but anon

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=620%20film&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=
>>
>>3277215
It's not 'produced' in that sense, it's just 120 film on 620 spools, because 120 and 620 are the exact same film, they just have different spools. You could try:
>Just putting it in; sometimes you're lucky and it'll just fit, depends on the camera though, but there might be enough wiggle room. Small chance though.
>Filing/cutting down an existing 120 roll; 620 spools are somewhat shorter (the flanges are thinner) and less broad (the flanges have a smaller diameter). Also the spool center is thinner on 620 but that shouldn't matter. If you file down the flanges until they're very thin and cut the flanges to a smaller diameter (that of the film roll + paper itself) you should be good. Do blow off filing dust carefully yet thoroughly, you don't want it on your film. Use a second modified spool as take up spool or if you're lucky, use the empty spool still inside the camera.
>Rewind the film on existing 620 spools; of course you'll need 2 620 spools to begin with. Roll the 120 film on one 620 spool in its entirety. Then, attach the end (which is now the beginning) of the roll to the other 620 spool and roll it up in its entirety so the beginning is the beginning again. Needless to say, all of these steps need to be performed in absolute darkness and without touching the film emulsion (you might scratch it).

Congratulations, you saved 10usd.
>>
>>3277184
Forget about the first option I gave, I just noticed the sticker explicitly states that the camera doesn't take 120 rolls.
>>
>>3276561
Halpppp
>>
>>3277248
provia 400x (discontinued)
provia 100f
>>
>>3277179
>My guess would be 'the brighter the better'
Not really. If you go too bright, and at small enlargements, you'll be getting subsecond exposures. Not very practical for doging and burning, and depending on your timer, it might not have very fine adjustments in the sub-second region to fine tune exposure.

I'd say aim for something in the same brightness of your old bulb and a bit brighter, but not too crazy bright.
>>
Portra 400, pushed to 1600.

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>>3276528
Rest in pieces
>>
>>3277071
That lens is the main reason I'd buy an M6
>>
Are there any photographers who have put out books of just 35mm content? I know Shore's book American Surfaces was all 35mm but its out of print.
>>
>>3277311
Yeah many. Pretty much any active photographer in the 20th century who wasn't explicitly in landscape/portraiture/fashion will have
>>
>>3277251
100 Iso film for shooting the milky way?
>>
>>3277326
I was think fuji 1600, what about porta 400?
>>
>>3277326
Well how do you want it to turn out? Star trails or not?

Reciprocity failure is gonna be an issue (read up on that if you don't know what it is)

Acros 100 is amazing since it doesn't need reciprocity adjustment until 8 minutes of exposure, making it perfect for long exposures
>>
whats the best way to put my work out there? IG? Tumblr? and should i make 2 separate ones, one for digital work and the other for film?
>>
>>3277329
What would you push to 100 to?
>>
>>3277351
...to 100 and do a long exposure nigga

Acros doesn't push well (400 max and it looks like shit).

If you want a high ISO film go with Natura 1600 or push HP5/Tri-X to 1600. It'll be grainy as all shit though
>>
>>3277275

How does pushing c41 work?

Just set meter to 1600 and develop as normal? Or is there special developing for pushed c41?
>>
>>3277365
Same as dev'ing B&W. Shoot at 1600 and then you add more time in development. If you don't develop your own film your lab will charge you a bit more to push develop C41 as they'll have to develop it on it's own
>>
>>3277367
this, it's not all that difficult really.
>>
>>3277367

Okay cool, I knew c41 was a standardized process, wasn’t sure if pushing worked the same as b&w.

Haven’t gotten around to c41 self dev yet, but I can probably just get it pushed at nearby dev shop.
>>
>>3277271
Couldn't you just stop down the lens and have sharper prints? Thanks for the answer btw
>>
>>3277308
I'm using it on an M4-P, which has the same finder as the M6 and it blocks the lower right corner of the finder even without a hood. Still getting used to that and so far this isn't a real problem. As written in some reviews on the net, focus becomes somewhat stiffer when I hold the camera at 90° (portrait). I'd still recommend getting it. The results I've seen on the single test roll I shot with it are wonderful.
>>
E6 dev fags, is Sous Vide the way to go? I'd rather not fuck with trying to maintain manually. Got all this to get through >>3275781
>>
>>3277367
What effects does it produce on the final picture?
>>
>>3277508
Higher contrast and more grain
>>
Any recommendations for a autofocus camera? im interested in both 35mm and medium format.

I'm doing a series of self-portraits and manual focus is not doing me any favors with that.
>>
>>3277510
>35mm
Contax G1 or G2

>medium format
Fujifilm GA645
>>
So I recently shot a roll of real old (c. 70s) Ektachrome and got it developed. Roll was completely transparent. Seems that instead of losing all sensitivity over time it was completely exposed to light bleed so not even the linear coding remained. Sucks but I guess a warning to anyone trying to use old slide film which hasn’t been dark/freezer-stored for the duration. Luckily I’ve got a bunch more from the 2000s which should be fine.
>>
>>3277339
I’d say IG is best for publicity, but Flickr is infinitely better for actual photo hosting. Use both (or your website instead of Flickr if you have one) in conjunction if you want.
>>
I was going through the manual of my newly acquired camera and saw the pages in pic related. Didn't even knew this was a thing, but it seems really cool and I want to try it: do you guys have some suggestions or ideas on how to do double exposures? Even some good pictures might help.
>>
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>>3277553
Expose for a shot and then divide the exposure settings by the number of exposures. For example, you want two shots, you meter the scene at 1/500 @ f5.6 for ISO 200. For two exposures on the same frame you would go for either 1/1000 @ f5.6 or 1/500 @ f8.
The easiest way is to just double the ISO value and expose both shots for that instead of your actual one.

Mind you this doesn't account for dark/bright areas which would be more/less prominent so it's a bit of a trial and error thing when overlapping shots.

The usual is bright background with dark figure in the middle (portrait etc.)
This one's a cool double exposure I found and I want to try myself, covering half the frame and exposing each side correctly.
>>
>>3277505
I use my sous vide to dev my C41 stuff at 102f and I get perfect temp control every time. I'd recommend one
>>
>>3277311
pretty much all of Eggleston's most famous books are 35mm (except for 2 1/4). Guide's good and inexpensive.
>>
>>3277579
Thanks. That picture is really cool, but how to get the correct alignment with an SLR is beyond my imagination. I absolutely want to play with the scale of things, shouldn't be too difficult.
>>
>>3277071
Heard the 35mm f2.8 is in some ways even better. How would you compare it to the Skopar? I use one on my Bessa and really like it, but whenever I upgrade to a Leica I have a feeling I may also get this lens and possibly sell the Skopar.
>>
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>>3277668
The Skopar is a fine lens, but its rendering wide open is different from the Biogon (compare this shot to the previous one). The Biogon is sharper wide open. Built quality is about the same, but the f/2 Biogon is significantly larger and heaver than the Skopar (a lot more glass). Never used the 2.8 Biogon and cannot comment on it for that reason, but it's clearly smaller than the f/2 and only 1/3 stop away from the Skopar. The only reason to get the Biogon 2.8 when you already got a Skopar would be sharpness. The focus tab of the Skopar is nice and if the Biogon had such a tab, it would be perfect to me. The clear advantages of the Skopar are its size and cost - it's probably the best lens you can get for that money and really nice for travelling. Stopped down to f/5.6-8 there is probably only little difference.

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>>3277686
>>3277668
Kinda hard to compare the Colorplus 200 with your rather grainy B&W shot.
>>
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>>3277689
meh, true. Here's one with the Skopar wide open from the same roll of Colorplus. Wrote the previous post from my mobile and didn't have this shot available.

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>>3277513
Is there any cheaper option than a contact for 35mm? also thanks for the answer
>>
>>3277759
Plastic Canon EOS models probably.
>>
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aw ye it's scannin' time

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>>
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T70 Arrived.

This thing is fucking idiot proof. The only thing you can fuck up is the focus, or forgetting to turn it one.

Want to point and shoot? P for Professional.
Want shallow depth of field and fast shutter, Tele mode.
Want big depth of field or a slow shutter, Wide mode.

Push a button to select.

You have to try to fuck up.

It's perfect for the lazy, the stupid and the deaf.
>>
>>3277797
Any idea how it performs in cold? I want an FD body that can handle -10C ish.
>>
>>3277800
No idea. Probably OK

But if you want cold and FD, Canon F-1. Things were tested to fire reliably either in the antarctic, or if you somhow wanted to take a shot inside an oven while you roasted....
>>
>>3277782
>>3277787
Keep them coming. Nice colors. Post what film.
>>
>>3277804
check the exif data
>>
>>3276988
Brother, where are printfile's that price!
>>
>>3277797
the fact that this is the new film meme camera makes me so mad. Cheap plastic close to digital product get outta here
>>
Boys I think I fucked up. I was storing my film in my freezer and my chemicals in my bathroom. It gets warm everytime I shower, so I thought hey I should probably put them in the freezer too. I just pulled them out to use in developing and they are frozen solid. Currently defrosting them in a water bath. Did I fuck up? Where is the best place to keep the chemicals?
>>
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So I have an Olympus XA3 and I want to shoot the new Tmax p3200 bc muhhhh street photography. Since you can only set the ISO up to 1600 manually will this mean it only takes DX film up to 1600? I've heard that some early DX cameras only meter up to a certain ISO (Say ISO 800 for example) even if you put DX film in that's a higher ISO. Will I be good?

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>>3277983
ISO range is the same whether it's reading dx code or you're plugging it in manually

1600 is the best it'll do, just live without the extra stop
>>
>>3277989
Ehhh not always, it's not uncommon for cameras to go to one iso when set manually and another iso when reading DX.
>>
>>3277686
That does make the Biogon look better. It’s an entirely different kind of shot but still, it isn’t really the strong point of the Skopar in my opinion. I don’t tend to shoot the Skopar wide open anyway, because I’m pushing to 1600 almost always and my rangefinder is a little off.

The heaviness and lack of focus tab are kind of a turn off honestly, but probably not a dealbreaker. Will have to see once I get around upgrading my body. Hopefully I can save up before the Bessa’s shutter craps out.
>>
Can somebody help me understand the ISO setting in film cameras?
What's the point? I set my apperture & shutter speed & sensor sensitivity (film choice). What purpose does that fucking dial serve?
>>
>>3278029
It tells the light meter what reading to give you. If you set the wheel to iso 100 the 'correct' exposure reading will be 2 stops different to if you had set it to iso 400.

If your camera doesn't have a light meter, then it's just a reminder
>>
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>>3278030
Thanks anon
>>
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>>3278004
I usually shot the Skopar stopped down at least to f/4, but having the option to use a lens over its entire range is certainly nice. The Biogon weights twice of what the Skopar weights, but about the same as the Summicron 35mm ASPH. Considering the additional 2/3 stop compared to the Skopar, it's obvious that it has to weight more. I thought the same about the focus nub of the Biogon and until I handled the lens I thought about testing and selling it, at the price I got it I could easily sell it with +50% profit. However, the focus nub is actually not bad and still lets you focus by feel while it provides enough grip to make the focussing very similar to that of the Skopar. Focus throw is also about the same and a tiny bit smoother.
You think your shutter is going to break soon? I always thought those are quite tough. I used a Bessa R before and Bessa have some serious advantages over Leica M: Brighter finder, 1/125 sync and 1/2000 max. The longer base at Leica isn't really that important if you don't shoot tele and apart from that it's more about the feel of the camera, a Leica is a lot heavier and feels more solid for this reason. Before really getting a Leica I suggest looking at the alternatives.

one more with the Skopar at f/2.8

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>>3277991
>>3277989
So how would I be able to find if it will meter to 3200 or not? checked the manual and all it says is that it accepts DX film, no word about if it accepts DX film higher than 1600
>>
>>3277902
Freestyle!
>>
>>3278064
try this

https://www.flickr.com/groups/52897625@N00/discuss/72157600798818713/72157603566614492
>>
>>3278070
>https://www.flickr.com/groups/52897625@N00/discuss/72157600798818713/72157603566614492

>First I set up my XA3 on a tripod in a dimly lit room, and set the ISO manually to 1600 (with no film in the camera). I adjusted the room light levels so the click of the shutter opening and closing took about one second.

>Then I tried sticking in a film cassette with a fake code of 3200 and 5000 ISO (the last one is particularly easy since it's just bare metal across all the contacts).

>Result: no obvious change in the exposure time.

>So I have to conclude that 1600 is the limit for DX-coded film too.

Cheers lad, making those DX codes and testing manually was going to be my last resort guess I don't have to now. Oh well will probably use my Konica A4 instead then
>>
>>3277983
I thought TMax was only 1600 and needs to be pushed to 3200.
>>
>>3278134
p3200's 'actual' speed is 1000, but works extremely well at 3200. All listed development times for p3200 shot at 3200 are essentially push processing, but the product is intended by kodak to be shot at 3200.

So not really but sorta.
>>
>>3278044
>You think your shutter is going to break soon? I always thought those are quite tough.
Yeah, it jams open sometimes, usually once every two rolls or so. I then get one blank frame and the adjacent frames might get a bunch of light leak damage. I either read or heard that the shutter is taken from one of Cosina’s cheaper slr’s, and is a weak point in the camera.

I mean I’ll be keeping the R2 as a backup, but I feel like I can’t resist the Leica pull. I got the R2 for really cheap too, it is pretty beat up though and has some other minor issues other than the shutter.
>>
I have a chance to get Rolleicord V for $250, checked, from the local shop. I saw them cheaper online, but here's the real thing I inspected and it appears to be in good condition, as far as I can tell from this few minutes and not having TLR earlier.

Would you take it?
>>
>>3278187
You can get Yashica-Mats with meters for a lot less than that. Even for a Rollei V not sure it’s that worth it.
>>
Is shooting with a TLR easier if you are a socially anxious mess and don't like the slightest confrontation?
I don't even shoot people and still feel i am being watched and doing something wrong when shooting with my canonet. Maybe a larger bolder camera with waistfinder will help?
(plz no bully)
>>
>>3278220
Also is the jump from 650g to 1000g (usual MF camera) noticeable? Can you carry a TLR everyday with you?
>>
>>3278220
>>3278222
It won't help. You're trying to find a buyable solution for your social anxiety. There isn't one.

And no, an extra 350g isn't noticeable.
>>
>>3278212
I should probably add this earlier, I'm not buying in USA, but in Poland. I don't know if I saw fully working 124s below $300 here, some in less than ideal condition, i.e. no light meter, gunked light seals or untested, for ~$200. Sadly, all price advantages of buying abroad are equalized by ridiculous shipping costs. I saw them as high as $60.
>>
>>3278227
Goddamn I feel sorry for slavs and their nonexistent fgt economy
>>
>>3278182
>I can’t resist the Leica pull.
I know that all too well.

>>3278187
Get a Rolleiflex K4 3.5, costs about the same.
>>
>>3278236
Yeah, that hurts a little bit, but post-war decisions have been made and we are here.
>>
>>3278227
Find you a Flexaret. Should be plentiful in east bloc. Probably needs shutter maintenance, probably focusing glass is 10-15% rot spots. But with CLA, should still cost less than $200. Quality is czech so very good for iron curtain.
>>
>>3278244
I've heard this name before, will look for them, thanks!
>>
So I just snagged a near-mint RB67 Pro SD with 4 lenses, two backs and a load of other accessories for £400, so content with this.
>>
>>3278271
That's amazing. Enjoy the kit!
>>
>>3277927
It's donkey cheap, is idiotproof and gives great results to people who 'want to shoot film', and 'want the bokeys' or what have you and don't know what they're doing.

It also has just enough information in the manual for you to learn and some decent lenses to go with.
>>
>>3278187
Get the rolleicord. The lens are Xenar, which is very good, second only to Rollei's Planar/Xenotar.
Take it from me who have gone through a bunch of diacord, autocord, yashica mat, rolleicord and rolleiflex. Don't make compromise because others are cheaper. Buy once so you don't have to buy twice.
>>
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>>3277927
wtf one dude posts about the t70 on 4chinz and it's suddenly a meme camera?

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>>3278236
>>3278227
You'd think it would be backwards. With their slow backwards economy and large poverty you'd think film would still be principal method of photography in those countries.
>>
>>3278134
>>3278138
It's iso800 and specifically designed to be pushed to 3200
>>
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>>3278313
My Rolleiflex has a Xenar as well.

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>>3278331
You're right, my bad. It's Delta 3200 that has a film speed of 1000
>>
is kodak color plus 200 or fuji c200 better?
>>
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just got some film back, and spotted a light leak. but only in some of the photos. how do I find out where it is coming from?

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Just got my 35mm f/1.8 canon thread mount lens and it’s so fucking small. Unfortunately my Canon P is still out for repair a few states away and will be for a while, so until it comes back all I can do is imagine how pocketable the camera and the lens together will be. And, well, shoot with my SLR while wishing I had my rangefinder. Just got 10 rolls of superia 1600 as well to try out before Fuji is dead.

There is something magical about 35mm rangefinders. They feel comfortable and so easy to use, perhaps because with no prism they are pocketable, and lenses like a 35mm are pancake or near-pancake, whereas on an SLR they get as big as a Sigma Art 35mm which just looks monstrous.

They do suck ass starting in the 90mm range and above though, except on my P it might be higher since the viewfinder is 1x magnification which probably allows me to focus a bit more accurately than otherwise.
>>
>>3278425
Where's the light leak on this? All I can see is that pixel-width blue steak in the middle which is from dust on the scanner. Light leaks would never be that accurate, they always flare outward
>>
>>3278429
that's what I'm talking about, I can also see it on the photo with my loupe. could it be that they damaged/causes something when processing it?
>>
>>3278428
Big love for the Canon P. Been shooting a lot in really really cold conditions and where my SLR locked up and wouldn't fire the Canon P kept on trucking.

The 50/1.8 is also pretty micro and is awesome on digital. Need to get a 35 and a 28 too at some point. Are you going to use an external viewfinder for the 35? I know the P has 35mm lines but they're hard to see
>>
>>3278430
Either their processing machine has dirty rollers and has scratched your negatives, or the pressure plate in the back of your camera is scratching the negs. If it doesn't appear on any other rolls I'd ask the lab to clean their machine so it doesn't happen to other people's film
>>
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>>3278432
they are on both rolls and it seems like it is at the end of the roll. here is another example

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>>3278437

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>>3278431
I’m considering getting a finder for the 35mm since it’s what I intend to use the most (I’m also waiting on an Industar 22 for super pocketable nifty-fifty street at daytime, but also eventually considering a 50mm f/1.2 canon for portraits, or a good 85.)

I think the lines are hard to see too, but to be fair, pretty much everything you see in the finder will be within the 35mm lines, so unless you have to get a quick decisive moment flawlessly, it just adds an extra second of thinking. I’m honestly just trying to memorize the 35mm field of view irl, so even if I get the finder I might just carry it in my pocket while I’m taking walks and use it to guess and then check my understandings of 35mm field of view
>>
>>3276786
I really like it's look. It's got a really nice homeliness and warmth to it, kinda lofi without being terrible quality. It's pretty cheap (compared to other film around here, at least), too.
>>
>>3278220
This is coming from someone with hella anxiety. Buying a TLR won't help you get over the fear of shooting in social situations. You need to shoot more, shooting from the hip really helps but the most important thing is shoot more and to get comfortable shooting. There are still times where I'm about to take a shot then pussy out bc I feel like someone is watching me. I actually recently purchased a Yashicaflex bc it was really cheap and haven't taken it out to shoot yet bc I feel like my point and shoot is easier to conceal then a TLR but I do plan to take it out in the streets soon
>>
>>3278424
Whatever is cheaper
>>
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>>3278314
He's probably just trying to steer the attention away from the biggest 35mm meme, probably because he owns one.
>>
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Leica reenactment autist here. Got a post war IIIc. Shot some boring shit. I'm happy with it.

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>>3278612
How is the viewfinder compare to an M?
>>
my minolta xg-1's meter leds started jumping and cutting off. turns out the mirror damper decided to disintegrate and the mirror hitting the top frame messed the electronics.
now I'm sad.
>>
>>3278623
>not regularly checking the mirror's damper

Anyway, you can easily find the XG-1's service manual: if you have the tools, the time, the will, and the skill you can repair it yourself, although considering the model is pretty inexpensive, you can just buy another one and call it a day.
>>
Recently bought my first 2.5 liter Tetenal E-6 dev kit.

Is there any way I can just use some of it to make 1L? How can I get out only the solution I need, without the rest spoiling from contact with air? Fill with some sort of gas? Or marbles?
>>
>>3278623

I shot dozens of rolls through my X-700 with a non-existant mirror dampener with no issue.

Did you try replacing the batteries? When they get low shit gets weird.

And at the very least, you now have an excuse to upgrade to the XD.
>>
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>>3278616
Imagine the M like looking through a recently cleaned window and the IIIc like looking through a keyhole inhabited by a spider. The rangefinder is also haunted.

But there are external viewfinders that might improve the experience.

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>>3278629
>XD
Not him, but they seem quite pricey, especially those in good conditions.
>>
>>3278625
it looked fine and solid a few months ago. never thought it'd just fall apart like overnight so never checked it. now I'm learning the hard way I guess
got the service manual. accesing the electronics seems like no fuzz. just pop out the top. gonna go over all the solder points.
mirror damper is a little tight to reach from the mount and taking the mirror frame out seems like a near full teardown. gonna have to get some tweezers and go surgical on it.

>>3278629
got some new batteries and it's still the same. As a workaround I have to fidget the iso/shutter speed dial a bit to get it working and metter just fine, but it goes out right after releasing the shutter. most likely a loose wire or solder point.

>an excuse to upgrade to the XD
been looking for one of those mainly because of the easier multi exposure capability. it's a pain having to awkwardly hold down the rewind knob and film release while cocking the shutter just to keep the damn film in place on the xg-1 and the x-300.

>>3278631
the XD5 is basically the same sweet camera with the same sweet electronics, but without the set aperture viewable on the finder. goes for less just because of that.
>>
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Out of curiosity, what advantages and disadvantages does a medium format have? I'm only accustomed to 135 SLR and point and shoot, I've never actually seen a 120 camera IRL, let alone tried one.
>>
>>3278664
The advantages are bigger film. The disadvantages are bigger cameras to hold the bigger film.
>>
>>3278668
>bigger camera
>disadvantage
>>
>>3278668
That doesn't tell me much, honestly.
>advantages
What does a bigger film do better than a 35mm?
>disadvantages
I saw pictures of medium format camera shaped like cubes that seem pretty much as big as a SLR; sure they're not point and shoot, but when you have to carry around a SLR it's not like you're going to slide it into your pocket.
>>
>>3278684
>What does a bigger film do better than a 35mm?
More "aesthetically pleasing" because how longer focal lengths renders scenes.

More resolution and less grain.
>>
>>3278684
bigger film means less grain, more effective resolution. personally I HATE grain on color film, so I only shoot it in medium format

6x9 negatives have 5.5x the area of a 35mm negative, but you only get 9 shots of 6x9 on a 120 roll

disadvantages: somewhat more expensive cameras, bigger/heavier than 35mm cameras, fewer shots per roll, very few autofocus/modern medium format cameras

a nikon D810 + 24-70 f/2.8 zoom is like 2kg, a mamiya rb67 weighs 2.7kg, a nikon FG 35mm film camera with series e 50mm is 0.6kg

so if you're used to carrying around a large fast zoom on a big DSLR, most medium format SLRs are about that heavy
>>
>>3278684
The bigger the film the more information on it, the more detail, the bigger you can scale it up. Also I've shot on a seagull and the experience was just super neat. The viewfinder of it.
>>
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What's going on here lads?
https://www.macodirect.de/film/farbdiafilm/fujichrome-velvia-100-rollfilm-220-5er-pack-mhd-10/2019?c=12
>>
>>3278746
220 velvia 100 has been readilt available for quite some time.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xvelvia+100+220.TRS0&_nkw=velvia+100+220&_sacat=0
>>
>>3278437
>>3278438
yeah, your nugs are scratched
these are the risks of getting someone else to cook them
>>
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Apropros of nothing at all.

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bunch of $9.99 "10x shanghai gp3 120 rolls" listings on ebay from chinese sellers with no history...

>"103 sold"
>falling for this shit

that said, hope prices on it drop a little lower, for $5 I can just buy HP5
>>
Eyepiece cap?!

Just started shooting film. Camera: Minolta X300.
Took a lot of self-timer shots on a tripod in Auto mode today. I forgot to cover the eyepiece with my head or with the eypiece cap. Does it mess up the lightmetering badly? Should I throw the roll away or develop it? Thanks in advance
>>
>>3278428
>>3278431
I found a guy that's selling his collection of canon rangefinders among them a Canon P with a 35/1.5 lens for like $650. That seems like a great price for a rather rare lens, but it doesn't actually seem to perform all that well in practice.
>>
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Scanned some 35mm slide today.

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>>
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>>
>>3278875
Probably not worth it. My 35 1.8 was half that. I did a quick calculation and 1.5 is quite literally only a third stop faster than 1.8. If it were 1.2 then sure it’s worth it, but both are quite honestly so close at 1.8 and 1.5 and the 1.8 has a better reputation for image quality.

Besides, in low light situations you are probably going to want an SLR since you’re wide open and need to see a depth of field preview to understand what’s going on.
>>
>>3278915
>Besides, in low light situations you are probably going to want an SLR since you’re wide open and need to see a depth of field preview to understand what’s going on.

Aren't rangefinders better at focusing wide apertures? Or is it because in low light you have trouble seeing the focusing patch? Would increasing it's contrast, with a marker or something, remedy that?
>>
>>3278915
Yeah, the guy also has a 35/2 and a 50/1.4 which might be more up my alley. Asked him how much he wants for those.
>>
>>3278921
>Aren't rangefinders better at focusing wide apertures?
For me yes. The double image provides more contrast in low light than pretty much everything else, be it microprism collar or a fine fresnel or a split image. Under some angles or with some colour combinations it might be hard to see the patch, but when you see it you can be sure that your focused correctly because the superimposed images "snap" together clearly when in focus.

But aside from preference, rangefinders have no mirror slap so they're handholdable at least one stop slower (in shutter speed) than SLRs and this is what makes them good for low light.
>>
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>hurr slide is so difficult to shoot
>hurr slide has no latitude

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