[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Home]
Board
Settings Home
/p/ - Photography


Name
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • There are 16 posters in this thread.

05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
06/20/16New 4chan Banner Contest with a chance to win a 4chan Pass! See the contest page for details.
[Hide] [Show All]



File: 71Xp+dotHwL._SY355_.jpg (18 KB, 355x355)
18 KB
18 KB JPG
Hey /p/, what should I buy for street photography apart from a Leica? (I'm poor, probably I can spend around $1000) I already have a Sony a5000 which I got for my birthday 4 years ago, but I'm thinking about something with a viewfinder maybe. What should I buy next?
>>
ricoh gr
fuji x100(s,t,f, etc.)


but really gr is the ideal street camera.
>>
Don't bother with a viewfinder. If you're on the streets you won't be using one as you want to be stealthy and inconspicuous. When you bring a camera to your eye it triggers a thought in most people's heads that "oh shit someone is taking a photo of me". I'd even turn the rear display off eventually once you're comfortable.
Watch this, it's a master of street photography going into why a finder isn't necessary:
https://youtu.be/QC2AyMVPLh4

Get the Sony 20mm f2.8 pancake lens used on ebay, bring a spare battery and go out. The pancake lens allows in a bit more light than the kit lens and allows you to move quickly. It'll also force you to get close, which is valuable on the streets.

Raise the f-stop to f8 to f11 and pre-focus to a distance like 1m-2m in front of you so everything is in focus no matter what. Look for interesting perspectives, shoot low or high or at an odd angle. If you look at good street photography it's all about playing with perspective and contrasts to make a mundane scene look interesting.

To be honest you shouldn't worry about spending money, just go out and shoot. You already have a camera so there's nothing more you need. If possible spend the money going somewhere interesting and photographing that.
>>
>>3309668
Woah thanks a lot! I'll try to get the f2.8 lens, and I'll remember the settings, the video was really good, I'll do more research
>>3309667
Watching some reviews now
>>
>>3309686
It's no problem, don't fall into the gearfagging trap. Invest in flights to interesting places or events and your photography will improve a lot faster than buying a new lens or a new camera. An interesting subject to photograph is infinitely more valuable than a piece of gear.
>>
File: tlr kouchou.png (926 KB, 1620x1037)
926 KB
926 KB PNG
>>3309668
Holy shit, it's the principal from To Love-Ru.
>>
>>
Agreeing with this>>3309668

The 20mm Sony pancake lens is excellent for street shooting.
Another alternative is the Sigma 19mm F2,8, it's slightly bigger, but it's much cheaper.

Also if you don't know it already, you can set your Auto ISO to an Auto-Minimum, and Auto-Maximum. That should help you get more control over your camera.
>>
>>3309717
I use a 16-50 lens at the moment and I set the auto ISO from 100 to 1600, it feels way too grainy after that. Is it good for a start?
>>
>>3309722
Better than setting it on full auto.

It's something you can adjust to your liking after you get some experience with the thing.
>>
>>3309722
Stick it to 800 to 1600, that'll mean your shutter speed is fast enough to capture street moments crystal clear. I flip between the two depending on the light.
>>
>>3309780
I would recommend 100 to 800.

When the sun is bright, the camera needs to be able to reach ISO 100.
>>
>>3309945
No it doesn't. Look at the preferred camera settings of most if not all street photographers, they shoot in high ISO of 800-1200 to ensure maximum shutter speed which is much more important than muh ISO 100. If you're shooting at ISO 100 your shutter speed will be fairly slow. That's also why pushing film 2 stops is so valuable on the streets btw.
>>
Go to /b/ and ask for tips on the best way to take creep shots, Practically the same thing
>>
>>3309946
1600*
>>
>>3309946
It depends on lighting conditions.

The camera use ISO 100 to protect against over exposure.
>>
>>3309952
No it doesn't, how new are you? Your camera will automatically correct the exposure even when you're at ISO 800-1600 and raise the shutter speed as it has enough light to play with to do so. That's why most street photographers shoot in aperture priority or program mode so they can focus on getting the moment, at ISO 800-1600 they KNOW the shutter speed will be razor sharp and not blurry, at ISO 100 not so much. If you're in sunny conditions you'll be shooting at high aperture anyway so it doesn't matter, in the streets only shutter speed matters to capture decisive moments.
>>
>>3309952
Yeah, like super bright day... Not something this guy is asking about. You're usually also loosing dinamic range at iso 100, so it's not favorable in many instances.
>>
>>3309952
>what is sunny 16 rule
>>
>>3309955
>and raise the shutter speed
Shutter speed has a ceiling you dingus.
>>
>>3309956
>You're usually also loosing dinamic range at iso 100,
Not on this camera.
>>
>>3309958
I can tell you've never shot streets. On the streets it is preferable to shoot at f8 to f11, ISO 800-1600 and push the shutter speed as high as possible. I know it has a ceiling, but the faster the better. If you're at ISO 100 your shutter speed ceiling is MUCH lower as you're not allowing as much light to the sensor. This is common knowledge, listen to any street photographer, Daido, Klein, whatever. They all say this is best on streets where being fast and the moment is crystal clear is best.
>>
>>3309960
I bet you're the type of clown who use aperture priority when he should be shooting in Shutter speed priority.

Because that's what you're trying to describe, but not quite understand.
>>
>>3309961
No you're the one who doesn't understand.

Raising your ISO and putting your camera in P mode the camera will decide the best shutter speed and aperture for you. If it has daylight + boosted ISO it has a lot to play with and so will make your aperture higher from f5-f8 and also your shutter speed will be high. Most street photographers use P mode and focus on the ISO only so you bringing up shutter priority and aperture priority shows you have no idea what you're on about. Watch any street photographer give a lecture and come back here. Literally any of them.
>>
>>3309963
Sounds more like you're trying to move goalpost and describe manual mode.
>>
>>3309966
No you fucking idiot, look at your camera, I have my Ricoh GR in my hand and it is in P MODE. That automatically decides shutter speed and aperture for you, you don't decide it at all. In manual you control all of it yourself. If you're in the streets you don't want to be fiddling with settings like that as a cool moment can happen at any moment then be gone forever so with P mode all you worry about is your ISO, the camera does the rest. You feed the camera a high ISO and it then has a lot of leeway in terms of light sensitivity so and raises the shutter speed and aperture.
>>
>>3309969
This is retarded. P mode doesn't even need Auto ISO. It's the setting where you ca dictate ISO 1600 if you want to.

Auto ISO is a setting for A mode and SS mode.
>>
>>3309971
It doesn't NEED high ISO but on the streets you benefit from it as more light sensitivity = faster shutter speed and higher aperture so sharper images. Turn on your camera and turn it to P mode, at ISO 100 shutter speed won't be too fast and the camera will open the aperture wide open. Now crank it to ISO 800 or 1600 and watch the shutter speed get faster and the aperture narrow down. That's beneficial in the streets as you want moments to be crystal clear, zero blur unless that's an intended effect you're going for. Do I need to come over there and teach you how to use your camera?

https://youtu.be/hyleG6p8onI

https://youtu.be/t5sCpkTdYu8

https://youtu.be/iVJKsBhvbII
>>
File: P1010564derp.jpg (179 KB, 667x1000)
179 KB
179 KB JPG
I was gonna make a list of good street cameras, but honestly when i travel most of the time i use a beater olympus e-pm2 with a cheapo 15mm bodycap lens on it as long as there's anything close to decent light. Low balled it on ebay thinking there's no way it'd go that cheap and I won.

Whatever you get, just make sure it's simple, quick to take a shot, easy to use and carry. The most important thing is make sure it's something you'll have with you and you'll use.

The sonys are good, I have an a6000. Most of their lenses have fast autofocus, too. Important if you don't zone/scale focus.
>>
>>3309978
No, you are literally advocating Auto ISO for P mode.
You're retarded.
>>
>>3309981
No I'm not, my ISO is completely manual in Program mode you fucking dingus, read what I said.
>>3309963
I have my ISO dial set up the easy switch on my Ricoh GR, I use ISO 800 outdoors and ISO 1600 indoors so I flip back and forth at will. THAT'S NOT AUTO ISO. What about this are you not getting? I manually control the ISO, the camera does the rest.
>>
>>3309984
>No I'm not
That's what you have been arguing from the beginning.
Crippling an Auto ISO feature for other modes, because you have some personal preference to P mode.
>>
>>3309971
>>3309969
you goofs are arguing over stupid shit.

Just keep your settings in a decent range and you're fine. Use whatever ISO allows you to keep your aperture between 5.6 to 16 so you can have a good depth of field (super important for scale/zone focusing).
And keep your shutter speed between 125 - 500, maybe 1000 if there's something fast moving you're really trying to freeze.
>>
>>3309986
>crippling an auto ISO feature
Nigger you're not crippling shit. By keeping auto ISO on you're limiting your camera and not allowing the optimal settings for street photography which is FAST SHUTTER SPEED AND SHARP APERTURE. If your camera auto decides to use ISO 100 YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET AS FAST SHUTTER SPEEDS OR APERTURE. SO you manually control that yourself and let the camera have as much leeway as possible. I fully understand you love Auto ISO but it can also hold you back in some cases, like street photography. Watch the last video I linked please, fuck.

Please show me your blurry street photographs at ISO 100, shutter speed 1/30, I need a good laugh.
>>
>>3309981
Take it easy guys, you can adjust the ISO in P mode in my a5000
>>
>>3309988
>SHARP APERTURE
Except F11 isn't actually a sharp aperture. But That's another discussion.

It's very obvious you're trying to use P mode with ISO 1600.
But the thing is, that setting doeasn't need to to cripple auto ISO to 800-1600. It's a setting where you are free to actually set it to 1600.

Auto ISO shouldn't be crippled to high ISO, just because you like to use P mode.
It's meant for SS mode and A mode.
>>
>>3309991
M8 why the fuck are you hung up on Auto ISO? I don't have it turned on, my ISO is completely manual and I adjust it MANUALLY. WITH MY HAND. I've said that repeatedly and you keep coming back to this auto ISO shit. I decide that myself based on the light I have and like this guy
>>3309989
I ADJUST IT MANUALLY. I move between ISO 800 and 1600 MANUALLY. I DON'T USE AUTO ISO.

And you clearly haven't taken the dick out of your mouth and watched any of the videos I linked so I'm not going to bother debating with you anymore.

And yes I know F11 has diffraction but I try to keep the aperture as high as possible, it usually falls around f5.6 to f8 in P mode.
>>
>>3309998
>>M8 why the fuck are you hung up on Auto ISO?
Because that's what made you REEEEEEE when I posted>>3309945

Remember the thing that started this derailment?
>>
>>3309957
Older than dirt and no longer applicable.
>>
>>3309998
I'm not the one debating, that's the other guy, I'm OP, I just woke up, gonna check your videos now, thanks for the help
>>
>>3309999
Yeah, your stupidity thinking the camera "needs ISO 100" on sunny days derailed it. What a crock of shit. Just because the camera decides in auto ISO that it can use ISO 100 because there's lots of light doesn't make it the optimal ISO for a situation where you NEED faster shutter speed.
>>
>>3310003
>for a situation where you NEED faster shutter speed.
That's SS mode, where your argument is again nonsense.
>>
>>3310006
Nope. Watch the videos and educate yourself then come back, we can have a discussion then why all the street photographer pros use P mode. Hint: it's because they don't WANT to be fiddling with shutter speed or aperture as they're trying to nail a moment that will last a fraction of a second. Adjusting ISO is the least fiddly thing to change. Retard.
>>
>>3310007
P mode is fucking irrelevant in the context of Auto ISO.

You keep using the authority fallacy, but you fail at this very simple step.
We are discussing Auto ISO. P Mode doesn't need Auto ISO.
>>
>>3310008
I agree P mode doesn't need Auto ISO. Because like shutter priority you control shutter and aperture priority you control aperture, in P mode you manually adjust ISO. So... I've always agreed with this. You don't need auto ISO in P mode.

What I'm saying is that sticking with an ISO range of 100-800, in the streets, means you won't be able to achieve the shutter speeds or sharp aperture needed. That's why most pros decide that they'd rather pump the ISO high. Sticking with ISO 100 is a handicap at times, the camera doesn't need it, it's just giving you a clear image that ISO 100 gives you because that's what most people want. Street photographers would rather take a bit of grain for more speed.
>>
>>3310012
>What I'm saying is that sticking with an ISO range of 100-800, in the streets, means you won't be able to achieve the shutter speeds or sharp aperture needed.
Depends, do you mean the streets in Seattle, or the streets in Egypt.

Lighting conditions can wary like that.
>>
>>3310013
Even in those situations you pump the ISO, the camera will adjust the shutter speed and the aperture so the light will be cut out by the camera's metering. ISO, shutter speed and aperture have a reciprocal relationship so ISO being high means the others will adjust accordingly to shut out light, even in Egypt or Seattle. And by moving to a faster shutter speed and aperture like f8 because the ISO is pumped up, you get sharper moments on the streets. It's just a different way of moving the exposure triangle which is what photography is all about.
>>
>>3310016
>>Even in those situations you pump the ISO
This is too retarded. You're obsessed with high ISO under any circumstance.
>>
>>3310018
No you're just not following the exposure triangle idea and think there's ONE way to do it. If raise the camera ISO to 800 in Egypt the image won't be overexposed as the camera will then shut out the light via other means like faster shutter speed. That means you're swapping some ISO for freezing moments in the streets. If you keep the camera at ISO 100, the camera slows down the shutter speed to correct the exposure. Do you see what I mean? This is photography 101.

And no I don't use high ISO in ALL situations. Only in the streets, I adjust it up as I value the shutter speed increase.
>>
>>3310020
>>No you're just not following the exposure triangle idea and think there's ONE way to do it.
You're describing yourself. And your one way of doing it is HIGH ISO.

Whereas I actually recognize lighting siations where ISO 100 is useful.
>>
File: exposuretriangle.gif (316 KB, 500x500)
316 KB
316 KB GIF
>>3310021
There are times ISO 100 is useful, I never denied that, but NOT for street photography as you will need a slower shutter speed and a more open aperture to compensate. Which means blurry images with not much depth of field. This is exactly what most street photographers don't want. Even in Egypt.
>>
>>3310022
You need to go outside more. Maybe travel some more to the South Americas, get some experience yourself instead of refering to other youtubers then come back.
>>
>>3310024
I don't need to go anywhere. You're ignoring a basic principle of photography and think if it's sunny and the camera moves to ISO 100 it was because the camera needed to do that due to the light. It didn't, it moved to ISO 100 because there's enough light it doesn't need to boost sensitivity of the sensor. But by moving to ISO 100 that impacts shutter speed and aperture reciprocally. Watch the gif here
>>3310022
Every change you make on the triangle affects the other legs. So even if you're in sunny conditions the camera doesn't NEED ISO 100, it's giving that to you because it can due to the light and most people like ISO 100 because there's less grain. You can adjust the triangle any direction you want in sunny days to correct the exposure or let the camera do it for you. ISO 100 isn't the only solution, it's one solution. You're basically misinterpreting what your camera metering is doing thinking it moved to ISO 100 out of necessity.
>>
>>3310026
>But by moving to ISO 100 that impacts shutter speed and aperture
Not when you are in A mode or SS mode.
Remember the basis of the argument? Auto ISO exist for these two modes.

There is such a situation where the sun will push your Shutter speed to its limit, you just haven't experienced it yet. Go outside and travel some more you faggot.
>>
>>3310034
Dude it's the same in EVERY mode. This is photography at its most basic. You can't get around the exposure triangle no matter what mode you're in. If you're in ISO 100 it will always impact the triangle no matter what mode you're in, when the triangle swings to the ISO side shrinking the shutter speed and aperture in the gif
>>3310022 that's your camers at ISO 100. You're just so used to swapping to controlling shutter speed or aperture you've never considered swapping ISO on the triangle can impact the other legs too. Lighting conditions can be corrected in ANY DIRECTION. Too much light? Faster shutter speed instead of less ISO. It's all RECIPROCAL.
>>
>>3310038
>Dude it's the same in EVERY mode.
Do I really need to explain to you the camera cannot push your Aperture around when you are in Aperture mode, and it cannot push your SS around when your are in SS mode?

You're reaching new levels of dumb here.
>>
>>3310040
I know it can't move on its own when you take control but it changes the exposure triangle as you adjust the aperture in A mode or the shutter speed in S mode. You're just confusing ISO 100 AS A NECESSITY in sunny days, I'm saying per the exposure triangle, the bedrock of photography, there are other ways to adjust your exposure than just moving to ISO 100. You could be photographing on the sun, the same rules apply. I can't believe you're arguing against literally the founding principle of photography here, are you a troll?
>>
>>3310043
>You're just confusing ISO 100 AS A NECESSITY in sunny days
No, that's just the reverse of you, who claim you always need high ISO.

I'm arguing for variety of ISO, where 100 is among them. That's why I recommended a high variety in the minimum and maximum of Auto ISO.
Whereas you argued to cripple Auto ISO.
>>
>>3310045
I NEVER SAID YOU ALWAYS NEED HIGH ISO. I said it HELPS with street photography as it allows the exposure triangle more leeway in shutter speed and aperture.

Let's do an exercise, imagine your camera has no A, S or P modes, no Auto ISO nothing, and you step out to the sunniest day possible. You also want to do some street photography so you want faster shutter speed. In that situation, as you balance the triangle in pic related, an ISO range of 100-800 WON'T give you a fast shutter speed as the ISO is already at ISO 100, the shutter speed MUST slow down to compensate.

All A, S and P modes do is help automate the triangle and if you take one away, you need more of the other in all three directions. By using an ISO of 100-800 ON THE STREETS I'M NOT TALKING ABOUT ALWAYS, you're telling the camera that you value ISO and not so much the other 2. Do you see now what I mean by a reciprocal relationship?

So if you're on the streets, shutter speed is king. You can't get as high a shutter speed with ISO 100 without opening your aperture more, which isn't great. So you boost your ISO. See? And this doesn't change by location. It's a creative choice.
>>
>>3310047
>he things iso is an objective number and not the most lied about thing between camera manufacturers
>>
>>3310047
>as it allows the exposure triangle more leeway
You need to stop this shit, there is no more triangle when you set one of the parameters in stone. If shooter wants F2,8 in A mode, it's no longer a triangle, the camera can only adjust the SS and ISO, when the SS has reach its ceiling of SS 4000, it will eventually need to go towards ISO 100.
>>
>>3310049
>there is no triangle if I stop adjusting one of the legs
No, that means the other settings are forming the reciprocal relationship around the one you set in stone and adjusting to give you a good exposure. Read that image, all three elements must be balanced to give a good exposure. So when you're in aperture priority stuck at f2.8, the ISO and shutter speed are shifting to keep the exposure right under those conditions. Usually that means the ISO will drop to 100 to correct the exposure.

Now imagine your camera is stuck at ISO 800. The exact same thing happens except the shutter speed and aperture are moving to compensate and correct the exposure. And because ISO is higher, it gives the other two more room to move to balance the triangle. That means that it's beneficial in the streets.
>>
>>3310053
>Now imagine your camera is stuck at ISO 800.
And imagine the SS is stuck at its ceiling. Congrats you now overexposure all of your images because you listened to to some meme on youtube instead of thinking for yourself.
>>
>>3310056
No, if the shutter speed is extremely high darkening the image considerably as less light is going to hit the sensor when you press the shutter, the aperture would open wide and the ISO would be boosted to compensate on the triangle. That's basic logic. If you can't work that out then you're a brainlet. Try it out, put your shutter speed as high as possible and watch what your camera tries to do to compensate. Your ISO is gonna go up and your f-stop is gonna drop.
>>
>>3310058
>the aperture would open wide
See>>3310040
That's not going to happen.
>>
File: 4_DESTINY_model.jpg (36 KB, 360x539)
36 KB
36 KB JPG
>>3310058
>>3310056
Can you both like post tasteful dickpicks then fuck in 4k?
>>
>>3310059
I mean it would shut down to f5.6-f8, sorry, been a long discussion.
>>
>>3310061
No wait I'm right if shutter speed is sky high at the cost of the others then the aperture drops to low f-stop like f2 to let in more light. I'm going to go away for a bit, enjoy while I'm gone.
>>
>>3310061
This is why I recommend you travel some more to the warmer countries.

SS 4000 is nothing to the sun.

>>3310062
Aperture doesn't drop or raise at all in Aperture mode you mongoloid.
>>
>>3310063
If you aren't shooting wildlife, you don't need it at the usual apertures for that kind of light.
>>
>>3310063
You genuinely don't get what a reciprocal relationship is or understand balancing the exposure triangle at all. Fuck, what happened to /p/.
>>
>>3310065
There is no triangle in A and SS mode.

It's auto adjusting between 2 setting.
>>
>>3310066
There is a triangle, you've just set one leg in stone and the others are adjusting around it. Because you keep constantly coming back to it, I bet you mostly shoot at a wide open aperture like f2.8, ISO 100-400 and a generic shutter speed at that range like 1/60 or 1/100, whatever the camera decides for you in aperture priority. That's not a fast enough shutter speed for the streets, 1/1000 and above is preferable. To get there if you also intend to shut down your aperture to f8, also preferable in the streets, you need a high ISO or the image will be underexposed.
>>
>>3310069
>f2.8, ISO 100-400 and a generic shutter speed at that range like 1/60 or 1/100
It's summer, I recommend you go outside, you will meet a whole new reality when you do.
>>
>>3310070
Dude. Put your camera in manual mode for me and raise the shutter speed to 1/1000 and your aperture to f8. Now tell me what your camera tries to do next. I bet it raises the ISO.

Now imagine if your camera always has high ISO. It will be able to hit that aperture and shutter speed target more often. Better for the streets.

Is this really hard to understand? How sunny it is has nothing to do with this. It's roughly the same no matter what. You've just not realised because your ISO is locked at Auto and you've never thought to control it for creative effect.
>>
>>3310072
>>Now imagine if your camera always has high ISO. It will be able to hit that aperture and shutter speed target more often
That's what you have P mode for.

There is no need to sabotage the Auto ISO.
>>
>>3310075
You're why street is laughed at.
>>
>>3310075
I'm not talking about "sabotaging" it, last I checked ISO was part of the triangle and as free to manipulate for creativity as shutter speed and aperture. I choose to move it between ISO 800-1600 on the streets (NOT ALWAYS) because it allows me a faster shutter speed and a good depth of field with only a cost of some grain. It doesn't matter how sunny it is, you could shine the brightest flashlight ever at a camera and the ways you can meter out that light for creativity are the same.

We can have an argument for auto ISO kept on between 100-800 for other forms of photography but not for the streets. Shutter speed is king and so taking control of ISO and boosting it is valuable in this particular form.
>>
>>3310080
>last I checked ISO was part of the triangle and as free to manipulate
Except it's not free if you set it in stone. It's only free when you allow it to go up and down.

When you are in P mode, you don't really need the Auto ISO to be that restricted. You just use the manual ISO.
>>
>>3310083
I'm talking about I'm free to change it for creative effect. As in I'm allowed to.

And yes that's what I do, I don't use Auto ISO at all in P mode. I stick to a manual range between 800-1600 for the stated benefits to shutter speed. You can't achieve the same shutter speed at ISO 100 and I don't want my camera to go there even automatically. It will negatively impact the shutter speed and aperture I want. So I manually control it at all ranges but rarely do I go below ISO 800.

I don't mean to be rude here man, but is English your first language? Because I don't think you're really understanding what I'm saying at all. I've repeated myself multiple times and you're still not getting it. Are you that Indian dude from the other street photography thread?
>>
>>3310087
The thing I don't understand is why you are crippling the Auto ISO when you already know your P mode don't need auto ISO.

Leave the ISO to be flexible for other situations where that is useful.
>>
>>3310091
Seriously this. I shoot foxes and shit and leave the iso to whatever I've constrained it to regardless of mode. I don't do street because it's gay but I can see the value because how you take the shoot is pretty much the same.
>>
>>3310091
Okay I'll explain it one last time.

In the streets having a crystal clear frozen moment with a good depth of field is important. That calls for:
1) a fast shutter speed, as fast as possible, something like 1/1000
2) an aperture between f5.6-f11.

I've already asked you to do an exercise and put your camera in manual mode. Dial in those settings, the image will be underexposed. To get a good exposure the camera will raise the ISO due to the dark image.

Now if I'm on the street with my camera locked at ISO 800 or 1600 my sensor has more boosted sensitivity to light and is overexposed and so to darken the image the camera will automatically choose a very fast shutter speed and an aperture like f5.6-f11.

So you see, by manually sticking with ISO 800-1600, the camera is giving me the shutter speed and aperture ranges I want automatically as it has a wider range to darken the image. That's good for the streets as I will always have a fast shutter speed and a great depth of field. If my camera has an auto ISO range of 100-800 on, you will NOT get that effect or be able to rely on the camera achieving it as predictably.

So manually staying on P at a high ISO gives me the benefits of a well exposed fast shutter and deep aperture image that I want.

>>3310092
Because in nature you want a low ISO to see the animal with no grain and you can sacrifice some aperture (say drop it to f2.8) for the shallow depth of field behind the animal. On the streets you want EVERYTHING in focus so you want f5.6 to f11.
>>
>>3310096
>On the streets you want EVERYTHING in focus so you want f5.6 to f11
Here in Scandinavia the f/5,6 easily reach shutter speed 1/1250 even when ISO is as low as 200.
>>
>>3310099
Good for you, but you can't rely on that predictably as the camera is constantly adjusting settings to give you a good exposure even if you manually control one of them. I'd rather swap to a higher ISO than 200 and ENSURE I will have a fast shutter speed and an aperture like f8 than leave it up to chance. It's about having a predictably sharp photograph every single time. And in the streets you need to quickly get the snap or it's gone, no fiddling with settings like aperture or shutter speed. I'd rather not lose the moment due to my camera being at a slow shutter speed at the time so I leave the ISO high so that never happens, my camera will already be at a high shutter speed and aperture to darken the image already. That's what most other street photographers do as well.
>>
>>3310096
you can probably use 125 for 95% of street photography. That's 3 stops lower than 1/1000. I guess that means you can take your ISO down from 1600 to 200 if you really want...

A lot of classic street cameras don't even go up to 1/1000. some don't go past 1000 ISO film settings either. or even 400 in some cases.

You gotta relax, bud. Just because someone isn't doing exactly what you are doesn't mean they're wrong. It's a creative endeavor.
>>
>>3310102
Nah, I've seen their shit secondhand, it's either nice day for three months or eternal night.
>>
>>3310102
F/8 still has room for ISO 400. You're obviously being way too strict about it.
>>
>>3310104
I know it's a creative endeavour, I was called a retard for doing it this way because the person I'm explaining this to doesn't understand what I mean at all.

I don't manually control my shutter speed or aperture so they're all over the place in the exif, they rise and fall as I walk around, but they're always higher than normal than if I were between 100-400. That suits me, the images I get are insanely sharp and I rarely miss a moment anymore from fiddling. I'm trying to explain why that makes sense for street photography, that's all.
>>
>>3310106
It's not about being strict, it's about not fussing with it at all. At ISO 800-1600 there's plenty of room no matter what so I know my camera is handling it well. If I drop ISO to 400, maybe the camera will handle it, maybe not depending on the light. I just stay safe in a comfortable range and know I got the shot.
>>
>>3309657
>I already have a Sony a5000
Sony A6000, that way you use the same kit lens and save a few bucks. I prefer FF for street but the Sony A6000 actually does a respectably good job with it and has face recognition and continuous focus and stuff that pretty much nothing else has at the same price level

>>3309668
>Don't bother with a viewfinder. If you're on the streets you won't be using one as you want to be stealthy and inconspicuous
Ignore this. Almost all good street photography is composed prior to finding a subject and picking a camera without a viewfinder just because part of what you do is street is ridiculous

The rest of his advice is solid though

I'd also recommend staying in Ap and Auto-ISO for 95% of street, or at least until you know what you're doing
>>
File: DSC00706derp.jpg (106 KB, 1000x667)
106 KB
106 KB JPG
>>3310114
olympus e-pm2 dude here again.
a6000 is probably one of the best deals you can get as far as new cameras go and you'll be familiar with the menus and junk. I mostly use mine either with that <$100 meiki 35mm or my collection of pentax lenses adapted so i'm always manually setting aperture. The focus scale works well with the meike but i never trusted it enough with adapted lenses to shoot much that way. I got a button set to zoom in on the viewfinder/screen and highlight focus turned on so manual is actually real easy under all conditions.
For me, when i'm feeling lazy aperture priority with manual ISO is the way to go. If i'm actually paying attention, i go full manual though.

summary. if you just want a tool to take street pictures that you can hit the ground running with, a6000 100% is your thing. If you want a new toy, i don't know... just get what seems sexy. Also that manual meike 35mm lens is no joke, especially at 90 bucks.

pic related: a6000 with pentax m 135mm 3.5
>>
>>3310114
>>3310125
I know shilling the A6000 is all part of /p/ culture, but wouldn't he better off investing in good lenses instead? For the cost of an A6000 he could get a 35mm f1.8 which is a stellar street lens. The 20mm f2.8 pancake is good too. The A5000 is pretty much just an A6000 with a viewfinder anyway, it's not worth an upgrade in body imo.
>>
>>3310137
Without* a viewfinder
>>
>>3310137
It's a good camera for sure. Me personally, I want a real viewfinder on any "serious" camera I own.
But yea, those sony lenses autofocus FAST and look pretty good.
>>
>>3310110
Post your balls so I can just you shoot film.
>>
>>3310114
a5000 still has a screen you can compose with. Viewfinder isn't necessary.
>>
>>3310143
Don't understand what you're saying, pajeet.
>>
>>3310146
it's not necessary but I always felt like it was easier to compose through an eyepiece and that my camera was more stable with my arms in held up to my face rather than out.
>>
>>3310158
There's a neat trick to get the same stability if you use a camera strap. Push the camera out with your arms until your strap tightens on the back of your neck and you get decent 3 point stability. Really handy if you need stability in a pinch.
>>
>>3310172
A best is when you adjust the strap to where the viewfinder is up to your eye when you have the strap pressed against your elbow. It's easier around the neck than over the shoulder but can be done either way with the right strap.
>>
>>3310146
Screens are garbage compared to EVF. Even more true on the sony a5k and a6k

I couldn't shoot without an EVF these days, it's just so valuable
>>
>>3310192
I feel like the value of better resolution/size isn't as high with street photography, but ok.
>>
>>3310236
Most EVF cameras have the back screen on a tilt that makes for a nice waist level viewfinder for more composed shots. They have a very oldschool feel.
>>
File: s-l300 (1).jpg (7 KB, 300x194)
7 KB
7 KB JPG
>>3310141
>>3310237
You do realise pushing for him to blow valuable money on a brand new body just to use an EVF is a huge waste though, right? He already has a capable sony body with a presumably low shutter count, the best thing to do in that case is to get use out of it with nice lenses or spend the money going somewhere to shoot. Buying a whole new camera, even if you sell the old one, is kind of pointless. And I really don't know many of any street photographers who look through the EVF on the streets, most of them fire from the hip while looking down at their tilted screen. Sure, maybe you'll get use out of it in other forms, but OP specifically asked about street photography.

OP could also get one of those screen viewfinders instead of a whole new body, I used one with my Nex 5n and it cost about $10. Bulky but it does the trick. Better than wasting money on a new body for a single feature.
>>
>>3310313
boy look at that stealthy street shooter.

>i don't know any street photogs that use a viewfinder.
how many do you know?

he asked about a new camera so that's what we're telling him.
PS those fujis also make great street shooters. or Ricoh GRs.
Or basically any small camera camera that you're comfortable enough with to use quickly and don't mind carrying around all the time.
>>
>>3309657
Get a used Fuji X100T for $600-700. I've owned digital and film Leicas, but now use Fuji for digital. The X100 series is what Leica should've been making for years now.

Though I've heard great things about the Ricoh GR series too.
>>
>>3310451
I'm part of a local street photography crew so yeah, I know quite a few thanks.

>look at that stealthy
he can use it for times when a viewfinder is called for aka not the streets. Nobody will care if a tumour is hanging off your camera doing landscapes or architecture.

A lot of noobs think they should buy a new camera body as they (wrongly) think that's the most important thing, it's up to more experienced people at /p/ to say "hey a new body is good but quality glass is the most important thing". He can bring lenses with him through any upgrade and anything Sony releases for E-Mount. He said he has $1000 to spend and a Sony A5000, in that instance you advise on glass & travel, not a new body.
>>
>>3309657

Fuji X-T20 might be the thing for you, you can get one with a 15-55mm for around 1000$ on amazon (note; the body is 900 and the lens is 700 if bought seperately, it's a good deal).




Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.