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File: 1507585941831[1].jpg (808 KB, 1905x1201)
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Wash yo brushes edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo

http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
https://pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>This planet is ours, witch!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44

>Previous Thread(s): >>55813012
>>
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I have a problem. Send help.
>>
>>55833350
cool terrain anon! what are you going to build?
>>
>>55833653
I have an idea for a big landing pad with the bastions for the base and a sky shield topping. No idea with what else to build though. My table is going to be weathered by not ruined which is difficult with the imperial sector.
>>
>>55833961
You can get some nice buildings if you only use the non damaged panes of the imperial sectos but it's a bit of a waste cuz the damages parts alone can´t really make buildings by themselves
>>
Putting the finishing touches on my mutant. Got inspired by an old Jes Goodwin drawing.
>>
>>55834134
Chad version of creepy gasmask dude?
>>
>>55834134
Loving it anon! Is it just for display or do you plan to play something using him?
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Quick wip of plague brethren, lovely models. C&C welcomed

also i need color recommandations what should i paint the tentacles, guts, horns and tabbards in? Also how?prefarably with the GW paint range
>>
Noticed another anon was base coating his Cowl with Mournfang brown fo his mephiston red on a black primer. Would it benefit me do do that for Khorn red on a gray primer?
>>
>>55834511
Do you want it to look darker? I'd say khorn red covers grey fairly well by itself
>>
>>55834410

Thanks! I mostly paint for display although I like to keep my miniatures "gamey", so no plinths etc. GW Stockholm is having a birthday bash next weekend and I plan to enter him in their small painting competition.
>>
Any suggestions for what I should do with Saim Hann Eldar bases? I´m having trouble picking a color/theme since it can´t match the red color and all the aspect warriors at the same time
>>
>>55834134
dude, amazing! What was the original model, or did you sculpt it all yourself?
Great way of painting him, by the by!
>>
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>>55834486
Nice clean look.

I just layered Carroburg crimson with yellow pustles.
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I finished all the priming today.
Ended up having to use rattlecan primer for the board rather than airbrush one. Can't really hit it from all the degrees I would need it to. Had good wether today at least. Which is to say, only wind no rain. And as usual the wind resulted in a 45° spray of grey covering nearly everything, making me wonder why I even borthered priming black. The very reason I got the airbrush. No problems with the normal models. Not pictured, the already primed/ painted/ partly painted deamonettes and terminators, due to doing their bases separatly. Also did a little bit of work on the termis. When I'm done with them I'll look into doing something on the board.
>>
c&p my question from last thread:
I'm looking to base by dudes in a wet and muddy theme. I plan on using Citadel's mud texture with gloss Nuln Oil. Is there anything else I can add to dress it up?

related question: what's the easiest way to attach barbed wire to bases? Just carefully dabbed-on super glue?
>>
>>55834975
Supaeglue and greenstuff it in place, then mud over.
>>
>>55834851

Thanks. It's mostly the old Orc shaman with a head from the Sicarian kit. Only thing I sculpted was the fur and blending some parts together.
>>
>>55833350
>>55833961
I like bastion based terrain. Here's one from my lgs
>>
>>55834670
I'd go for sand/gravel with tufts of grass, like pic related. The beige/green combo is going to look good with red, blue and green minis all at the same time, as it's desaturated enough without just being a plain grey moon base
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>>55834538
Just tried it, it does. Thanks
>>
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I'm not too happy with this Ork, thankfully it's a test model because I messed up a lot of the painting especially the face and clothing.

I want to make an Evil Sunz themed Ork force but I'm sure about the shirt and trouser colors, I think I'll make the armor red instead.

1/2
>>
>>55834913
Godspeed anon.
>>
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>>55835347

and the back now.
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>>55834975
You can drybrush a lighter brown on top if you want but Stirland Mud and Nuln Oil is enough.

Put a tiny drop of super glue on each trough of the barbed wire where the wire touches the base.
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>>55834670
>>55835269
Alternatively, just change the aspect colours to something that would mesh well with your base of choice, black, bone or red if you're doing S-H
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>>55835269
I think I'll compromise with that. It's a shame cuz I'm used to making lava bases that really pop the green color of my marines
>>55835380
Nah, the thing that attracted my from the eldar were the color variety of the units to begin with. It'd be a shame to change them. Plus I can´t really think of a base theme that fits eldar specifically
>>
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Has anyone tried/considered using the new black paints for miniatures? I feel there could be some pretty neat effects done but IDK if the pigment size is small enough for miniatures.
>>
>>55834913

Wow it's really coming along nicely, can't wait to see more.
>>
Does anyone have a favourite tips/guide video for OSL stuff?
I'm a pretty weak painter, but I've picked up a very fire-themed crew, and it seems like a waste not to try it...

>>55833350
That's dolla for scenery pham.

>>55832106
Ah fuck, I'm sorry dude.
Did not expect that.
Doesn't happen when I do it.

Are you using neat/very high percentage acetone? Or working under a hot lamp?
Perhaps it evaporates too quickly.

>>55832367
Denatured ethanol is great for all sorts of shit.
Gentle paint stripping, propa brush cleaning, paint extra-thinning...

>>55832680
I wasn't really planning on Hoffman - he was cheap on eBay - but now I really want a stompy robot crew to play opposite my slimy lawyer crew. Against my burlesque girls, ice magicians and disenfranchised Chinese-Malifauxricans.
Fucking Malifaux.
Too easy to theme-hop.

>>55833457
Cheers for the tips.
Is the musculature sculpted, or am I going to have to try and freehand it?

Lucius got big phat bumps in the recent erratas and releases, he's decent now.
>>
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First tank I've ever painting. How am I doing it? I'm planning on add some grey stripes
>>
>>55835024
>mostly the old Orc shaman
I can't believe I didn't spot that.
Good eye for bits, that's a perfect base for that kind of pose.
>>
>>55836099
If you are going to do cammo i's probably better to do all the base colors first and then the highlights. Now you are gonna have to redo them on the grey.
It's looking good though. Are you going to wash the recesses?
>>
>>55836092

The musculature is sculpted on, but the details are pretty shallow in some areas. A wash of blue/purple would also make your life a lot easier. But with muscles you don't need to pull out every little detail for it to look solid, particularly with the Blood for the blood god because the 'blood' would obscure detail anyways in real life.

Nice to hear Lucius is better though, I've always loved his visual design. Might pick him up after Titania since I mostly collect TT/Neverborn to paint.
>>
>>55836092
This is actually a really good video that's recent and shows off several good techniques (including OSL) that don't require any special mediums or airbrushing or anything.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OVnCFq1j04
>>
>>55836231
Yes, I'll use some agrax earthsthade to add some depth. I decided to do camo after painting the brown reading the siege of vraks. I don't mind to redo some highlights. Thanks! Sorry for my bad english, I am a little bit drunk
>>
Have any of you ever used parts from Gunpla kits in conversions for your works?
>>
>>55836572
no
>>
>>55836572
I think I´ve seen detail panels and such used on an mechanicus knight but other than that I think they'd look weird
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Working on a vindicator that is old. Took it apart and stripping it. Only part I can't get off is the part that connects the dozer blade to the tank.how could I get it off?
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>>55836720
Do you need to?
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Necromancer Warband Update

Today Castrus Vile, Evil Warrior got painted and that finishes up the batch of stuff I got last week.

Now it's just the stuff from this week.

I actually really like this model, the scar over his eye is cool and so is his cloak with the fur part.
>>
>>55836572
I bought some drill bits when in Japan a few years back to make like drill arm chain fists, but that project didn't go anywhere. I am thinking of using the smaller bits on a drop bastion idea as like anchoring bits to clamp the thing down once it's on the ground.

Also, just ordered a missile battery type thing as a test bed for a missile sentinel idea. I wanted some proper big cluster of missiles with a hatch on the front and all, not that puny thing slapped to the side. I'll probably post pics once it arrives.
>>
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And the group shot of what I've finished the last few days.

They all need snow on their bases, but I'll probably just do that when I've got the other 4 or 5 guys I've got for the 'band done and do them all at once before I varnish.

Really cool bunch of models that I had a load of fun painting, especially the transitions on the Night Spectre rising out of the skeletons.
>>
>>55836952
Looks good. Where's the mini from? Thinking about getting into some Frostgrave myself.
>>
>>55837221
Everything I've been posting the last couple months is from Reaper. That dude in particular is actually what I called him in my post, I didn't make up a fancy name for him.
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>>55837084
You've done a great job with these anon! Great job. Personally I'd like for the larger bases to have a little more variation or uniqueness added to them. Tufts of grass, rock outcroppings, skulls, etc.
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How do i paint black? This is the best i can do but something feels missing.
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>>55837337
My Frostgrave board is set on the barren outskirts of Feldgast, so there isn't a lot of rubble or signs of life period (also random skulls on the ground is always something I've found very very stupid) what with the insane magical blizzards.

A lot of my more important dudes are up on rocks and things, these ones just happen to be on flat ground with a bit of rock.

There's also a more practical reason for it. These miniatures are all 100% metal and most of them are 1 piece including the basing between their legs, so it can be more effort than I think it's worth to snip it all away to make things blend.

They also look a lot more complete once the snow gets on them. Pic related.

Thanks for the feedback though, I definitely could put more effort into my basing.
>>
>>55837445
another step of highlighting with a lighter blue-grey, more focused. They look pretty god damn good as-is too
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>>55837524
Do you also think i should basecoat with something lighter than Abaddon black?
>>
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>>55837445

that's incubi darkness around the edges? do a point-highlight with a lighter teal-like color

what does /wip/ think of my thicc captain
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>>55837550
If you do that then you run the risk of your stuff just looking really dark grey instead.
>>55837564
looks cool, not sure about the base though
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>>55837564
The base could use with a bit of a wash then drybrush, it looks low detail compared to the toxic sludge and the captain himself.

Also if you're feeling adventurous you could try weathering his boots and shins. Walking through terrain that dusty definitely would dirty up his legs.

Definitely looks great as-is though!
>>
>>55837564
I honestly thought you put a tiny pickle on the base for a second there.
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>>55835767
i want to, but it does make people nausious.
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>>55837600
>>55837634
>>55837860

thanks for the feedback guys, the angle is a bit slanted but i drybrushed Screaming Skull on it, but I didn't put a wash before-hand (did it on a test model with Agrax, felt like it darkened it too much)

as for dust on his boots, i've done it on other primaris boys, but i felt like leaving this one be

here's another angle
>>
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>>55837995

last angle, really happy with how the highlight on the ridges of the cloak turned out
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>>55838009
Cloak is clean as fuck, good shit.
>>
>>55838065

thanks my dude, the primaris line is fun as fuck to paint
>>
>>55836099
Clean lines looks good so far.
>>
Hey guise, I got a damaged chaos lord for free from a friend. Since he's missing an arm, how would one go about making a tentacle arm with greenstuff? With little suckers and everything. Also know any chaos power sword bits I could use for that arm?
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I'll just leave these here
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>>55838173
To make a tentacle arm just cut a piece of paper clip with the pose, roll a sausage of green stuff and taper it towards one end around the paperclip, then for the suckers just make very little tiny sausages and join the ends together so you get a puckered ring.
>>
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Should the sides and top of the Heavy Slugger be drilled out like the barrel?

This is from the Plagueburst Crawler and I've never worked with this gun before.
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>>55838382
Ideally.
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>>55838382
Have you ever seen a M2HB?
No, leave the sides be.
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Current conversion in progress.

Ork casting smite using the energy of his fellow Orks to make a Waaagh! bomb.

I plan to green stuff the holes in the chest but would like an opinion.

Do you think I should add some hair, in the form of a top knot?

That might help to add to the Spirit Bomb reference I'm going for but I'm not sure if it looks fine enough as it is.
>>
>>55838382
>>55838577
bus speak the truth.
It's a heat shield. Just serves the purpose of preventing burned fingers. So no.
>>
>>55838626
>Do you think I should add some hair, in the form of a top knot?
I think it messes with the composition of the pose. I wouldn't.
>That might help to add to the Spirit Bomb reference
I don't have the slightest clue what you are referring to though.
>>
>>55834913
turning out really nice mate!
>>
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>>55838656
>I think it messes with the composition of the pose. I wouldn't.
Good point. I'm not that big of a fan of Orkish hair anyways

>I don't have the slightest clue what you are referring to though.
Dragon Ball
>>
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Necromancer Warband Update

Got the last set of dudes for the 'band for now based and primed, got the basecoat down on the undead wolves and will probably paint them before the night is out.

Deth and Taxxis and the Giant Worm in the back aren't really for the Warband, the Worm is just a general use mini and DnT I bought just because they're cool, but I'll find a use for them in something.
>>
>>55838626
I'll be transferring my energy to you until the conversion's finished. You better post pics when it's done
>>
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>>55832757
Finished the first beastman and onto number 2. once I've done the whole squad i'll base them.
>>
Can someone tell me why Ceramite white keeps turning chunky? There's just this giant blob of paint instead of a normal pot of it, and it's incredibly obnoxious to work with.
>>
>>55839650

Put a piece of sprue in it when you first get it to help blend it up when you shake it.

But that kept happening to me too, so it's on my GW paint shitlist. I use Vallejo's white these days.
>>
>>55839650

That color just always dries out when left in GW's pot design. It's just how it is. Use a better white like Vallejo Model Air - White, or pour it in a screw top dropper bottle.
>>
>>55836099
I rate your tank tonk out of tenk
>>
>>55839682
>>55839679
Is there a vallejo white more brighter than White scar?
>>
>>55839735
Army painter matt whites pretty good.
>>
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So I've been working on some greenstuff flames for some third party cultist meatshields, and how do they look so far?
>>
>>55837446
This skeleton is radical. A friend of mine has the exact same model - do you mean that the 4 together are metal, or this one as well? His is resin, but I'd definitely grab one of these myself if it was metal.
>>
>>55839822
g'day cobber
>>
>>55839822
they look pretty cool! they are for Nurgle? Also what are those disk like things in the back right (left if it was flipped)?
>>
>>55839844
Every model I've posted for my warband (except the huge Skeletal Colossus) is metal.

Your friend probably has the Bones version of this particular dude. Given the choice I buy metal. The Bones material loses detail and is a total bitch to clean up/reshape before priming and painting.

Plus there's just something satisfying about the heft of plopping a metal model around.
>>
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>>55839853
I feel only eternal shame, hopefully this will fix the pic.

>>55839871
Yeah I was thought getting angry, pointing, and firing warp flames would be easier for a mutated cultist then firing a stubber with his remaining three fingers.
>>
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>>55839965
:D
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>>55839550
They look great.
>>
>>55839682
>>55839679
Thanks guys
I don't have this problem with any other color from the GW line, not even White Scar
>>
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>>55839912
Interesting. I'm not really familiar with various brands/lines of miniatures, is the metal version still by Reaper but under a different product line name? I found the resin one on their website, but I'm not clear about if the other listing is for a metal one or just a painted version. Where do you generally get your metal figures?
>>
>>55839149
Oh I actually recognize that alchemist dude, don't know why I felt giddy about that.
>>
>>55840451
That's not the resin one, you can tell because of the price.

Bones minis are wicked cheap; the Bones version of that model is only $2.99 compared to the metal version being $9.79.

If you use their Search bar and punch in Skeletal Champion you'll see both versions.

The overwhelming majority of the Bones models are just cheaper plastic versions of their metal models.
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Made some more squats
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>>55840513
Also reworked the melta gun guy a bit to look less crap, just needs a little green stuff now.
>>
>>55840502
Sorry, meant to clarify the one in the picture was the version I thought could have been metal, specifically because of the price. I actually didn't know that most of the Bones models had metal counterparts, I only ever see the resin ones at my LGS. Thanks for the heads up, I'll definitely be grabbing at least a few metal ones from now on.
>>
>>55840513
neat.jpeg
>>
>>55840513
perfectly decent squats with only a little weapon swap
GW knew exactly what they were doing with the kharadrons
>>
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Necromancer Warband Update

Finished the Undead Wolves.

These'll be useful for Frostgrave AND Mordheim.

I really like the exposed skin flapping over bone.
>>
>>55836099
>renegade guard
Mein neger, I think I've seen a few of your posts before. I'm yet to work on more of my vehicles as I've been waiting for my airbrush booth to arrive. Your chimera looks good so far, I'm a sucker for weathering and making things look beaten up. (I don't know how you want to paint your vehicles though)
>>
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Built a hill for my 15mm middle east terrain.
First time in a long time since I've done something like that.
Its 3 levels of 1cm foamboard on a 3mm plyboard base coated in spackle, fine sand and crushed pebble grit. The rock is corkboard.
Turned out better than expected.
I need a few more tones of flock to add some depth and to get/make a static grass applicator so I can mess around with that too.
>>
>>55840835
If you're at all serious about terrain making, a Flock Box from Warpainter is a must own.

It's fantastic for making your own tufts and with a cheap sieve for using as a static grass applicator.

Beasts of War have a couple of videos on it and show how awesome it is.
>>
I'm starting a Catachan Tzeentchy army so I can use my big blue briefcase.

What would be an interesting model/conversion 3rd party or GW for a tzeentchy sentinel?
>>
>>55840938
I've seen a few videos on the flock box and have been considering it.
The whole thing seems simple enough I could build one with minimal electrocution.
It does seem pretty awesome and making those little grass tufts would add some missing detail.
>>
>>55840952
If that shit isn't a rubix cube with sentinel legs glued onto it, I'm going to be sorely disappointed
>>
>>55841025
You could definitely build one if you know anything about electrical work, I'd made something similar a few years back. The Flock Box is just really well put together if you don't want a Hobo Box, but it's not exactly cheap.
>>
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Just finished this malanthrope. Hows it look?
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>>55841069

Top view
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>>55841069
I think it looked better before you put the red on
>>
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Kitbashing together some flayed ones.
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Just made this guy
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>>55841348
Ugh
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>>55841348
decent paintjob, you lose lots of points for how dirty and dusty it is though
>>
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>>55841361
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>>55841382
Obviously 4chans image importer doesnt know how to talk to whatever metadata the iphone attaches to photos. Cant be my fault
>>
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>>55841398
>>
>>55841382
I'm planning on using those helmets the lieutenant has. Think it looks nice.
>>
>>55841382
>>55841398
>>55841430
I'd recommend a finer brush for your freehanding, at the moment it's way too thick.
>>
>>55841480
Im using GW's xs layer brush. Maybe im just impatient
>>
>>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
>https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

Hmm.
Have any of you guys tried this? I'm having mixed results with rattle cans and I'm thinking of trying other methods (before I end up with an airbrush/compressor).
>>
>>55841608
You HAVE to make sure to properly thin the stuff, otherwise it's a little chalky and comes off real easy.
>>
>>55835024
Dang boy, so mostly sculpted then. Good Job. Looks like a completely different model.... except the feet maybe.
>>
>>55835347
Largely tabletop passable.... except that face. It's a bit messy and un-defined Anon.
>>
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>>55839550
Fairly armless....
>>
>>55841608
Use Stynylrez
>>
>>55841348
Pretty good. Don't think that the grass tufts really match the theme of the base though...

>>55841382
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfR9iY5y94s
>>
>>55841733
I've been thinking about getting some of these for a while, but common sense dictates that I'd never get them painted. My painting backlog goes as far as 1987.
>>
>>55841825
>My painting backlog goes as far as 1987.

MY LEGEND BEGINS IN THE 20TH CENTURY
>>
>>55841751
>Stynylrez
Like brush it on?
>>
>>55834913
Niiiice mate.
>>
>>55839764
I never use it, except in mixing. If I need a white highlight, it's usually Mummy Robes.
>>
>>55840646
These are perfect, anon. Wish I could learn from you.
>>
>>55842025

Yeah.
>>
>>55841825
>My painting backlog goes as far as 1987.
Might as well then. I started in the 90s, but I have so much stuff I doubt I'll ever paint all of it.
In fact I've found that I frequently forget what I even have. Sometime I go through my things and find stuff that I have no recollection of buying.
So I figure I should probably just sell the stuff that I'm not into anymore and reinvest in the stuff that I'm motivated for.
>>
>>55842221
No you crazy nigger. As soon as you sell it you'll have an idea for it. Hoard! Always HOARD!
>>
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done some Tau for shadow war between main projects for a change
>>
Any ideas how Guardify a Baal Predator?
>>
>>55842485
They look dope. That is some fantastically clean white.
>>
>>55842493
Camo and gluing those IG accessories like fuel cans and sleeping bags on it .
>>
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I'm so excited to work on this guy
>>
>>55836952
Good job anon, he looks great!

>>55838626
If you don't paint him as Son Goku doing Genki-Dama, you're wasing your time.Make him spiky yellow hair, orange paints, and will be gr8.
>>
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I made this shitty template for choosing a color for vostroyan guardsmen.
>>
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Still can't figure out what colors to use for this.
>>
>>55843618
going with GW colors (which I don't even use)
fatigues
base demonette hide, shade druchii violet, layer warpfiend grey, highlight with slaanesh grey.
You can probably use less paints but these are the suggestions for purpleish grey I get by looking around. Maybe leave the wash away cause that is a lot more saturated than the other colors. Pick a triad or just wash black in the value range you like.
Personally I use vallejo colors, but I'd have to stand in front of a paint rack to give suggestions in good conscience, because their color charts are not really that accurate.

For the grey a straight 1:1 black and white grey would be right. So Mechanicus Standard or Dawnstone in GW terms or cold and stonewall grey in VGC.

You can of course always mix your own shades. For the cloth under the armor a medium grey with a few drops of purple would be perfect.

To add the weathering on the armor just take a sand color, thin it down into a wash consistency and apply between the cracks of the armor. You could also use pigments if you want to go the extra mile. Pigments are probably better to work on vehicles.

Not sure what you are working on though, so that's just a general idea.
>>
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Sure his face might be fucked up but I guess I could blame it on battle damage, an explosion or the likes
Maybe cover it with some'chipped' paint etc
>Brother-sergeant Erectus used a plasma gun once
>once

Anyhow, should I get some brush-on primer or just go straight to fixing the paintjob?

>>55841733
'tis but a flesh wound

>>55842485
Looking good

>>55843204
Maybe get some liquid green stuff for that (camera) left arm?

>>55836092
>>55837390
>>
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Now that my first skitarii guy and tech priest are done, I started working on the Onager Dunecrawler, is the Black Stripe straight enough ?
>>
>>55844431
thicc
>>
>>55844597
I can fix that with effects and washes, that's not a problem
>>
>>55844701

A wash won't fix thicc. Hiding it with rust/damage effects might work.

I do like the orange you got going.
>>
>>55844701
> Paints thick
> Don't worry, I'll add more paint.
Sounds like a plan, anon.
>>
>>55840682
We've talked before yes. I took a break from painting but now I am back so I hope to keep posting more frequently from now on. Of course I'll do lots of weathering, this is just the beginning my renegade friend
>>
I don't know if I'm just retarded or what but I bought a wet palette the other day. Like, an actual one with the sponge and everything. I'm surw it wont make any difference compared to my old tupperware kne but it feels good to not be a poorfriend.
>>
>>55841348
Nice. Where is the flame from?
>>
>>55840513
Where's that sword on the guy to the right from?
>>
>>55845143

Tupperware wet palettes suck because the flattest ones are for sandwiches, and thus kind of small, but most people use regular boxes which are tall as fuck.
>>
>>55837446
Where is this skeleton from?
Looks great, I like undead that looks like a worthy, dangerous villian should.
>>
>>55841348
>s simple enough I could build one with minim
>>55841361
>>55841382
>>55841398
>>55841430
What the hell is this guys?!
A free neck training day?
>>
>>55841608
I'm using exclusively that as I have no space nor the climate for spraying.
Works like a charm.
>>
>>55841382
Oh my Emperor, I love that captain.
Might just tidy up the magazine where it shows the bolt rounds with a bit of nuln oil and some highlighting.
Seriously though, looks amazing.
>>55841348
So much better then the shitty normal crozeiuz. Thanks.
>>
>>55841277
10/10 Flayed Ones.
Much better than GW sculpts.
You did well at not overdoing it at all, a very tasteful balance.
>>
>>55833350
Please build one well thought and and planned fortress with all those kits rather than slapping a load of little buildings down.
>>
An ideas where I could get this kind of flames >>55841348? Ideally something sold separately. Bitz are never available
>>
>>55846022
Dunno where you can find something like that sold seperately but the Flagellant-box is have some and is also relatively cheap and overall great for conversions.
>>
>>55846022
Zealot had a bunch of bits like that. Good for anything fantasy or 40k related.

Tabletop-art also has a set of torches amongst other fire related stuff
>>
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WIP Valdor
>>
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I don't know what happened with the paint on these guys, is the primer responsible for the grainy effect ?
>>
>>55846057
>>55846273
If only there was one with an aquila on it.

Only one I got at the moment is an old metal HE phoenix guard standard, which has a brazier with a phoenix on the side of it.
>>
>>55846318
Wew, yeah; whatever you were spraying with dried up before it hit the model. Do this, after you strip 'em; Make a hang loose with your hand. The thumb to pinky distance is how far away you should be spraying.
>>
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What would be the best way to achieve the fade-out pattern on the diamonds here? Dark glaze over the lighter harlequin pattern? Or are they just individually painted?
>>
>>55846715
airbrush
>>
>>55846735
Could you achieve a similar effect with successive layers of glaze though? Especially if the base colour was lighter rather than darker?
>>
>>55846765
if you only have a regular brush and a spraycan I'd say painting the gradient first then masking off the diamond shapes and then filling in the rest with a spraycan woud be the way to go. Same thing you'd do with an airbrush basically, but on a large smooth surface wetblending and the like it a lot easier than trying to match a bunch of diamonds.
So do the gradient, put down the pattern with masking tape and then spray your base color over the whole thing.

And yeah of course you can achieve that with successive layers of glazes. The whole point of glazes is that they are transparent. A smoother transition just means more layers with more transparency.

Different anon here, btw.
>>
>>55835347
>>55835364
It’s a good start, will look perfectly fine on the table.
What colours did you use and what were your methods/steps?
>>
>>55846318
The grainy effect would look good on stone, rock or golems.
>>
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Update on my renegade tank. C&c welcome
>>
>>55848386
>renegade
>tank
>C&C
Oh, man, now I want a Command & Conquer wargame 95 or tiberian sun, no EA

Someone still have the pictures of Nod guardsmen someone did almost a decade ago?
>>
>>55842205
I'm sorry, I'm apparently retarded. What kind of prep do I need to do on airbrush paint to brush it on? Just water thinning?
>>
>>55848732

none
>>
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>>55834486
Well for my guts/tentacles I do Bugman's glow, a violet wash, then layered with Cadian flesh, and a edge of either Rakarth Flesh or Kislev Flesh depending on the look I want. Horns and bone are Zandri Dust, Agrax Earthshade, then Karak stone or Ushabti bone. Pic is an example of some of the results.
>>
>>55843204
im curious
with the bits that come with the f.bloat drone can you build another bloat drone using the body of the one from dark imperium?
>>
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Got more work done on fatso. Trying to decide how to get the red circle and III for third company. Maybe fill in a crimson fists vehicle emblem and go from there.

Kinda want to put some checks on him too, but I'm not sure what's the most aesthetic location. Maybe the outer plate of his power fist.
>>
>>55846370
I never understand why so many cans say 30-50cm.
Is that a health and safety thing so you don't huff propellant?
Because they must know it fucks the actual application of paint in all but the most thoroughly ideal conditions.

>>55846318
My GW white did the same thing the first couple of times.
Sit the can in warm water for a few minutes then shake for two minutes continuously.
As in, literally two minutes, literally continuously, not forty seconds ah fuck it that's good enough let's spray.
Two minutes.

It's enough of a pain in the arse that I tend to prime in pretty big batches even though I don't play any system bigger than 30 models per side, but has the upside that there's always something I can switch to if I'm bored of painting X, because A through W are staring at me from the shelf, primed and ready to go.
>>
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First time painting on the left, second on the right, I think I managed to not fuck up the face this time.
Do you guys have any secret turbo hack to make face painting easier ?
Also when doing highlight, how large should be the line ? Weird question sorry in advance
>>
>>55849543
Pretty good for your first time m8
>>
>>55846888
Huh... why has never thought of doing this intentionally?
>>
>>55849543
The line thickness is basically up to you and depends on what you’re painting, but what you have on the right looks pretty good from here.
>>
>>55849543
>first time painting
Pretty damn solid attempt m8, very nice work.
>>
I've noticed a fair amount for people seem to put wire in the minis feet when they paint them, do you glue it in and bend it under the bases or just try to make it stick with friction and remove when done?

>>55849966
Texture spray is a thing.
>>
>>55849960
>>55849987
>>55849999
Really cool to see, thanks fellas. I'll keep updating my armies
>>
>>55850006
Never even considered using it for modeling. As for your question it's a technique called pinning. Most people put the pins all the way through the base then bend them underneathe. It helps with stability and allows you to paint model and base seperately which has many advantages
>>
>>55850056
I know of it for keeping heavy shit in place but like you and grainy primer, never considered it for the painting.
>>
>>55839149
Where did you get the worm ?
>>
>>55850006
I drill holes in mine, then cover the surface that's supposed to get glued with tack. Do the same for the base. Push paperclips into the drilled holes, attach them with super glue and then pull them out once you're done priming. Easy as pie.
>>
>>55850107
How I do it is finish painting the base, then put a dot of bright green paint on the bottom of the pins of the model. A well placed poke leaves two dots exactly where I need to drill when that paint dries, then I drill, dab a little super glue, and stick it on. I don't bend underneathe however, as I put a little metal ring underneathe to be able to carry it in my ghetto case, which is a plastic bin with a metal plate at the bottom to attach my models to with magnets

Just options. The thing is finding which method you prefer and what works best for you
>>
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Sergeant Fuckface here again
>>55830197
>>55832106
Face didn't get that badly melted from the acetone but the paint is still really thicc. No idea what I'm doing wrong, I usually thin my paint relatively well. Any thoughts?
Also, any tips on shaking less when doing for example eyes? Or do most people have to clean up after they've done theirs?
And yes, the paintjob is shit-tier; it's the first squad I've painted

>>55849543
Nice face, totally not jealous
>>
Do you ever start mentally outlining a ridiculously elaborate project just for fun?
I want to convert Mortarion into a Tzeentchian Daemon Prince Techmarine, with the wings from Magnus the Red and the face of a Magos Dominus.
>>
>>55850347
Well, I have the outlined plans of using the base of a 1/4 scale panzer IV to make a landa/land carrier for my orks..
>>
>tfw addicted to dumb memes
>>
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Hey everyone. How do you guys motivate yourselves to finish larger projects?
I can get infantry squads completed happily enough, but I'm struggling with pic-related.
>>
>>55850569
>struggling
Dude you've mostly assembled and painted this.
Do I need to post my backlog?
>>
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Looking to do some conversions, probably nurgle daemons and cultists.

I already have kits for Blightkings, flagellents, plaguebearers, nurglings, and skaven plague monks.


What other kits are best for nurgle conversions?
>>
>>55850569
I have the opposite problem of finishing huge ass models and struggling with squads. I guess my thing is that I focus on a by-model idea of progress, where I look at finishing a big model the same way that I would an infantry one.

Think of the leap of progress that finishing this ONE model will bring, compared to say finishing 30 Guardsmen. This baneblade has as much presence as multiple squads.
>>
>>55850698
Zombie and ghouls maybe, cultists too.
>>
>>55837084
2 spooky 4 me
>>
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>>55850698
I've found that combining Genestealer cults, AoS Ghouls, some Plaguebearers and Skitarii works well for 40K. Pic related is one I did.

as for AoS, I say playing the mutant-rabble part would work, and combine it as you have, with Skavens, Chaos Marauders (if those still exsist), Empire Flagellants, Ghouls again and so forth.
>>
>>55833350
Someone please shop whycantiholdallthese bastions.jpeg
>>
>>55850569
Why the hell those front tracks never match up perfectly.
I built my baneblade 3-4 years ago and the front tracks are not parallel to the ground on it also.
>>
>>55850860

I was 12 when I first built it, it around 5e I think.
It looked a lot worse before I came back to it, I just did work with green stuff.
>>
>>55850091
Giant Worm from Reaper, the Bones version is legit $3, amazing deal.
>>
I'm planning on starting some neurons for my first army and was planning to do a mostly silver finish with some turquoise and gold for the dynasty colors. Any decently priced paints you guys would recommend?
>>
i'm calling these done. next up, centigor
>>
>>55851020
I havent seen a single baneblade with perfectly aligned front tracks. That is probably an issue with the model itself.
>>
>>55851184
Have you EVER seen a rhino with perfectly aligned hull plating?
>>
>>55850225
Most of the time you're going to have to clean up afterwards, but a couple tricks I use to keep my hands steady may work for you.

Take a shot of your spirit of choice, and make sure you're stabilizing your wrists on the edge of your desk.

Hold the miniature with your non dominant hand and lean your dominant hand against that, basically painting with just the motion of your thumb, index and middle fingers.
>>
>>55851204
Sure. My own.
>>
>>55851316
I don't believe you.
>>
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Please forgive my dogshit photoshop skills but I want some feedback on my idea for Magnus. I just ordered the guy and like 16 new paints. I want to go full autism to make this guy look good top to bottom but I don't want to just follow the basic colour scheme, I want to make him MY Magnus.

Had the idea to give his wings a kaleidoscope feel, they are red coming out of his body but change colours constantly. Also thought I'd give them a shimmering effect by glazing the tips with metallic medium. Any thoughts?
>>
>>55851359
Gonna look Gaaaay.
Make sure to give hims a nice glossy oiled up skin for maximum effect
>>
>>55851359
People will first look at the model than they will look at you. They will proceed to nod their head and form their conclusions on your sexual preferences.
>>
>>55851359
Are you planning to do transitions between the colours on that left wing? The colours changing so suddenly kinda distracts from the rest of your paint job (which is looking fantastic)
>>
>>55841825
>My painting backlog goes as far as 1987

kek
>>
>>55848976
It comes with one body, 3 propellors, one of each choice of weaponry, 3 face options, 2 or 3 dangling tubes/ mouth options

It is assembled differently than the dark imperium box. Do you want a pic from the instruction manual?
>>
>>55851390
>>55851394
Well I'm bi and I'm not going to have him wear the chest, wingtip and shoulderpad armour. He's practically a fucking JoJo character.

>>55851397
It's... not my picture. I grabbed one from google and just photoshopped it terribly so I have a visual example of how I am planning the wings. But I guess so yeah. I don't care how long I take, I will try to glaze or wetblend so there's a constant shift of colours between the pinion layers.
>>
>>55851492
Oh I figured you'd shopped over a picture of your work in progress, like you wanted one wing normal and one funky looking, because that'd be cool.
>>
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>>55851492
In all seriousness, I'd consider maybe doing a "raven black" look, dark wings with iridescence.
>>
>>55851300
Spirit, huh? I can work with that
Thanks!
>>
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>>55851545
Ah fair enough, I would consider that if I didn't have such a hardon for symmetry. It'd bug the shit out of me anytime i'd look at him otherwise..

>>55851551
That's an option, sure. It does look good, I just want to do something different. Black wings with shimmering blue tips GW already did. Plus I saw this one Lord of Change here and it really inspired me. I want it to pop out but in a good way. Of course I can't just emulate this cause I don't want to use lots of red due to the skin. Give some contrast.

Perhaps lessen the number of paints I use for the wings to give a changing multicolour look without going so far as to have a rainbow flag on his back like he's leading Pride 2018?
>>
>>55851565
Alcohol (in small amounts) steadies your hands, it's actually considered a performance enhancer for things like shooting, archery, darts and in my experience, painting.

Plus having a couple drinks, playing some relaxing music and just banging out models is a pretty good evening. Win-win.
>>
>>55846057
I feel like Empire flagellants are the ultimate kitbash purchase.
>>
>>55851827
Or the Free Company.
>>
>>55851842
Should just rename them "Grimdark Upgrade Kit"
>>
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>>55835353
>>55835989
>>55838684
>>55842071
Thanks, but I guess the time for compliments is over, as I go into painting it all, with no time to act on advise for improving the models,

>>55834913
Only managed to finish the metal parts on my Termis and the gold doesn't show too well in these pictures. With six of them I ended up getting rather sloppy rather quickly, but they won't be viewed up close anyway.
>>
>>55851842
I hate that they stopped production on that kit.

Fuck Age of Sigmar, if only because of how many kits it killed.
>>
>>55842254
>>55842254
Recently moved and decided to consolidate my “projects” into boxes so I could more easily store the ones I’m not working on. Ended up with this small, tightly packed tower. Most projects only took one box, but a really extensive dark angles collection (that I have zero interest in with the current state of the narrative- primarines are neat but they make manlets seem super pointless) took two
>>
>>55851613
Maybe breaking up the set bands of colour for the wings or re-aranging the colours could help.
Try looking at the colour slider wheel for photoshop, something like that maybe?
>>
>>55853659
I actually did thast. I have a pair of primed eagle wings that I'll paint some tests on. I could either reduce the amount of colours used (bright orange, yellow and green follows by the big feathers being turqouise. I can then either coat the entire wings or just the edges with metallic medium for a shimmer.

OR, and this might be radical, I have all the wings jet black but edge highlight every single feather with their chosen colours. Then I can add a metallic medium coating for that shimmer. which sounds more badass?
>>
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>>55832757
Just finished painting this guy up for tonight's session.

I've probably
I've only painted about half a dozen minis before this guy, so I'm not as good as some of you guy, but this is probably my best and favorite paintjob.

I'm hosting session 1 for a bunch of newbies tonight and this guy is going to be the boss at the end of a long undead tomb.

Any tips or advice for my next paintjob? I did a lot of drybrushing with this guy and he was my first attempt at using a wash.
>>
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>>55853853
Back side.
>>
>>55853847
That could work...
It's quite hard to picture, which probably works for the entire effect. Try it I guess.
>>
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>>55853853
You can try throwing different amounts of wash to different parts to give variety in tones of bone. Eg to differentiate between the hand, the halft of the mallet, the skull, the horns etc.

Give the base a dry brush too
>>
>>55854142
I'll give it an attempt tomorrow afternoon, that said it won't look as good due to the size difference between an elite infantry-sized wing and Big Red's wing. Still, should give me an idea! If it doesn't look good on magnus, I can just... paint over it. It'll be black. I'd just have wasted a few hours faffing about.
>>
Is dry paint supposed to be so solid it has a consistency slightly less thick than jello? I bought some longbeard grey and I can't tell if it's supposed to be like that, or if it's just another case of white-ish paints being fucked up
>>
>>55854156
Base is drybrushed with a grey that blends in with the light source. Maybe a darker coat?
>>
>>55854156
Dawh, Little Ahriman~

Can't wait for the TS codex. Gonna use 30k Ahriman with a custom 40k-styled helmet. Will file off the shoulderpad and model an oak leaf cluster for his brother Ohrmuzd as in the book and will make him ride a magic floating Tomb Kings Howdah from the necrosphinx kit as his Disc. Gonna be baller.
>>
>>55854241
I don't really know what the base is meant to be. It doesn't look done and needs more contrast. Might just be the photo though
>>
So I'm sitting here, staring at a half built Knight Styrix, and I'm wanting to include it with my Minotaurs. However, as fluffy as it is to paint it in Mechanicus colors, I kinda want to go a different route. You guys have any recommendations?
>>
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IS there something like fiverr or tener for modelling?

I need some very simple things made out of green stuff, for someone that can model it'd be <10 minutes work.

does anything like this exist?
>>
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>>55854239
>>
>>55854529
NO ANSWERS FOR YOU, CALIFORNIAN
>>
>>55854738
PLEASE SIR EVERYTHING IS BURNING, I JUST WANT IDEAS WHILE I STILL HAVE THE TIME
>>
>>55854725
https://youtu.be/oo0m5ol6P2w?t=41s
>>
>>55854762
Okay yeah I think mine is fucked up
How can I fix it? I doubt I can just put some water in it like with normal paint.
>>
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>>55853853
>>55854156
As someone who also happens to love that model, here's kinda what this dude is getting at.

Horn and Hoof (which you did do a different colour) aren't quite the same as bone so they'd generally be a different colour and give you a good reason to break him up visually.

I also highlighted his hand holding the mallet handle a bit more so that it stands out as being a bone from a different creature.

You metals came out proper aged, I like them a lot.

Also when you're dry brushing, try to use less pressure, build up the highlight slowly and don't be afraid to get more paint on your bristles and wipe it off again, helps avoid that chalky look. My bone is highlighted using gentler drybrushing.

Definitely heading in an awesome direction though!
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How do you lads like my copula with rokkit launcher?
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Does anyone know where I can commission custom shoulder pads and iconography for my space marines?

I've already tried Shapeways, but none of the people there who produce marine shoulder pads are accepting commissions at this time.

Picture not entirely related.
>>
Are you supposed to prime your bases? I just had a hell of a time getting texture paint to stick to the base and not my tool
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>excited to post my first mini here
>think it looks pretty good
>at the last second notice a very visible sprue-connection moldline thing I missed
gonna kill myself lads
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>>55855544
The texture paints are finicky at the best of times. I find it helps if you run a file across the base a few times, to rough up the surface even more. Helps a little.
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>>55855770
Kinda regretting buying astrogranite debris over the normal stuff, I can barely get it to spread
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>>55854770
try to get a refund/exchange? I feel like half the gw paints I see are fucked up right out of the pot.
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>>55855447
https://www.baphominiatures.com/store/

This guy does
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What paints do you guys recommend for airbrushing purple?
I only have the GW purples currently. I hear P3 is pretty good for thinning down to airbrush so I bought some of their teal, but I haven't tried it yet and am unfamiliar with their line. Also heard good things about reaper.
Trying to paint my primarines as hawk lords, who seem to usually be a pretty dark purple, but I'm not opposed to a brighter purple either.
Bonus question does anyone recommend a gloss varnish that airbrushes well? I've used the Vallejo matte varnish and like it, but I'd like to try using a gloss varnish before washing/transfers as it seems like a good trick to get through washing alot easier.
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Necromancer Warband Update

Got a basecoat down on my Apothecary/Alchemist, had some light skin tone in my airbrush doing the skin on the next photo so I blasted his face to save me a couple of layers when I go to actually paint him.

Made him look funny.
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Update The 2nd

Got the basic skin tones down on Taxxis, have a gloss varnish curing on her now so I can glaze up and down to get some life into the skin with some Vallejo Beige Red mixtures.

>>55856178
Any paint can be thinned down for an airbrush. Get yourself some Vallejo Flow Improver and a couple drops of water, shit is liquid magic. Also their (Vallejo's) Gloss Varnish with a couple drops of Flow Improver goes through an airbrush amazingly.
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>>55856302
Got a ton of flow improver already so I'm good there. Just need to actually try it. Will order the varnish though thanks.
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>>55856354
Two biggest pieces of advice I can give you are straight out of Angel Giraldez' Masterclass Volume 1.

Mix your paints in something other than your airbrush cup and then pour it in, I use leftover blister pack plastic (coincidentally so does he).

The PSI you're using is also very important.

If your needle is .3 to .35 (which is pretty standard) and you're thinning your paints to a milk-like consistency use between 25 and 27 PSI. This gives you plenty of spray strength for paints with larger pigment, but still gives you the control you need. Just get used to only rocking your control stick back 40-50% of the way.

The PSI thing really helped me a lot and with following through his book I managed to get to a point where I can do small radial bloom highlights on individual armor panels (it's nerve wracking as hell though if I'm being honest).

Pic related.
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>>55856443
I'll have to try that. I've been running close to 40 psi, but I use little water bottle caps for mixing paint,unless I'm just doing a solid color in which case I've been doing it in the cup so I can backflow the brush to mix it.
>>
>>55850225
Sorry again for not giving more detail on the acetone thing.
I hope I haven't killed Sgt Fuckface forever.

White paints seem to be really thick across many ranges - you might just have to thin it way the fuck down to get flat even coats.

As >>55851300 said, use your own body as a stabiliser, you're less likely to slip.
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Does anyone know how to make flesh look necrotic with a blueish tint? I'm trying to use it for this guy here via experimentation but I'm really not sure what the best way of doing it is. Trying to go for the blackish dead flesh that has a bit of blue to it and yellow around wound edges.
>>
>>55856508
Been watching some of that Kenny Boucher have we?

40 PSI is a bit much, you're going to find it hard to get in close for small details and not get spiderwebbing with PSI that high.

If you're blasting out basecoats for terrain 40 is awesome though.
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>>55856705
Yea, been watching his videos since the airbrush came in. I like his style but some of his work seems a little too exaggerated for me. I bet it looks great in person though.
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>>55856443
Can you scan the pages where he explains how to paint joan of arc?
I have the actual figure but not the book so i dont want to screw it up.
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>>55854725
>Is dry paint supposed to be so solid it has a consistency slightly less thick than jello?

Yes, it's supposed to be like that. It's very thick and clumpy, and as a result, it seems like you will go through it pretty quickly, as the majority of what you get out of that pot should end up on a paper towel - and *not* on your brush or your models.
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>>55855544
>Are you supposed to prime your bases?

I always do, even if I'm only going to flock them. It makes a substantial difference, especially if you're actually going to paint them.
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>>55856747
I don't have a scanner or I totally would friend, but to be honest it doesn't actually teach you how to paint very well. It's a lot of "Draw the Rest of the Owl". The only useful parts of the book are his sort of overview at the start, and his colour schemes.

The thing I found it most useful for for painting my Pan-O is just what colours he used. Namely Dark Prussian Blue bascoat, 60:40 mix of Dark Prussian Blue to Blue Green, then work your way up to pure or near pure white by adding white to that starting mixture and highlighting smaller and smaller areas.

Then it's just shade the recesses and edge highlight the panels.

Funny thing is that's probably more words than what the book gives you.
>>
>>55856781
Old school bases for old school models.
Love that aesthetic even though i iwll never do that.
>>
>>55856854
Thanks for the colors. Painting the face of the figure is the most scary part for me because i have no idea to reach the level presented at his painting.
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>>55856924
The hardest part is the eyes. But the rest of the face is basically just Vallejo Basic Skin Tone then some glazes of Beige Red in the recesses, and a couple of brown glazes on the lips.
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>>55834913
do you have pictures of the models?
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Necromancer Warband Update

Decided to plug away at Taxxis' skin for a while tonight, I think I've got it mostly where I want it so I'm going to stop screwing with it for now. See how it looks tomorrow if I think it could use a bit more work.
>>
>>55857000
>>55858209
This is actually basically how Angel paints his skin. I used Basic Skin tone on her whole body after undercoating (not a totally necessary step, I just like deep shadows and some guidelines), then just added a bit of white for highlight areas (top of her breasts, thigh, top of her ass cheeks, a sharply angled spray to catch the top of her tummy).

After that it's just some glazes of Beige Red for the recesses (the lines of her breasts, lower parts of thighs, underside of tummy, crack of her ass).

Every couple of layers of glaze I add a couple of drops of Reikland Fleshshade to my mix to darken it a bit and shrink the area I'm glazing.
>>
>>55856603

I'd suggest using cadian fleshtone mixed with healthy amounts of Teclis Blue and Eshin grey.
>>
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Won second place at my local gw painting competition with this guy

What do you guys think of him?
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>>55859590

AWFUL.

Just kidding. I think it looks fairly solid, I'd suggest cranking up the contrast on the armor though. You're too conservative there and a lot of detail is lost because the armor just reads very dark and not very distinguished. The eyes and cape, however, are quite nice. Good work overall.
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>>55832757
how will marinelets ever compete if even guardsmen are outgrowing them?

these slav models are gorgeous but damn theyre big.
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>>55856302
>have a gloss varnish curing on her now so I can glaze up and down to get some life into the skin with some Vallejo Beige Red mixtures
You gloss coat before glazing? I've never heard of anyone doing that before. Doesn't it reduce the surface tension too much?
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>>55859946
wheres that valhallas from?
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made a bit of progress, still loads to do overall though. Trying to speed up painting the rank and file troops, i'll never get an army finished if I don't
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Finishing this up
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>>55860202
ArtelW Heroic Commisar + Aide
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>>55856158
Are you sure?

The site doesn't say anything about modelling commissions. It looks like a painting service from what I can tell.

Still, lovely pictures and models on there, so thank you for the link however it turns out.
>>
When putting a wash on a human face, do you prefer fleshshade? Nuln oil? Mix of anything?
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>>55860506
Agrax, nuln oil is too dark I think, especially on a "normal" human.
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>>55860747
Well. ..it's a chaos spawn.

But it's a bunch of humans fused together
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>>55860753
Oh okay then go for nuln oil, they're not very normal anymore lel
>>
>>55860261

https://www.baphominiatures.com/store/custom-space-warrior-shoulder-pads-10-pair
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>>55860753
Same anon, I think nuln oil is still too dark. The chaos spawn is supposed to be quite clear, nuln oil will tone the faces down a lot. Go for agrax, my bad anon
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>>55860802
You think aggrax?
Not the fleshshade?

Normally I do 1/3 of the forest green wash (dont remember name ), aggrax, and nuln oil mixed together to make a putrid swampy color on my nurgle daemons. The issue is, these spawn aren't based off of nurgle daemons (they aren't able to get the keyword ). Trying to just make them look like fleshy human transformations.
These are the boys.
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>>55860913
Those are disgusting as fuck anon.
Well done.
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>>55860792
Danke
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>>55855197
>>
>>55859590
Not a fan, Lacks play between the colours.
He looks quite-- paint by numbers with a red area, blue area, purple are, done.
>>
>>55860229
Maybe make the bolters cloths wrap a bit more different from his hand, makes it kinda blend together visually.
>>
>>55857581
Yes, but I'm not going to upload all of them here right now. A couple threads ago I asked if anybody knows a site to upload them, where I am not expected to interact with it's community. I will look into something tomorrow, when I don't get to paint.
>>
>>55855705
There's always one you don't see until you take that photograph
Don't beat yourself up over one moldline

>>55856521
Thanks anon and dw about it

>>55858209
I'm surprisingly okay with this. Where's the model from?
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>>55861410
>Where's the model from?
Hasslefree.
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Winter Skaven Guy here, working on my first horrors.
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>>55861667
Clever use of bismuth as counterweight.
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>>55861677
Thanks, i thought bismuth could make for a good Tzeentchian decor elements.
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>>55861827
and its essential with that awful pose, no idea what gw thought, you need to have him do a backflip if you want to keep the centre of gravity inside the base
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>>55861862
or you could just glue him further back on the base.
Standard bearers are always kind of unstable. Back when WHFB was still around I put magnets under the bases of my banner bearers and onto the movement tray.
>>
I found and purchased a Johnny what's wrong with my life
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>>55862201
Nothing, what legion will you paint him as?
Or chapter I guess, if you swing that way.
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>>55862259
Haven't really decided yet maybe fists or blood ravens
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>>55862321
Ah, you don't collect space marines yourself?
Well let me be the first to tell you your only mistake will be not painting him as an Iron Warrior.
>>
>>55862331
Nah I've got some marines just don't know if I want to field him or keep him on the workspace for encouragement
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>>55862201
How expensive are them ?
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>>55862343
>for encouragement
In that case the answer is obvious: Imperials Fists.
Duty above all.
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>>55862343
Why not rolling a chapter?
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>>55862359
I paid $19 3 of which was shipping
>>55862365
My yellow is still bad I'd need some more practice before I could call him done
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>>55862365
Yeah, IF, maximum visual impact, ideally suited for standing around doing nothing.
>>
Someone make a new thread I can't be bothered.
>>
>>>55863459
New thread
>>
>>55845182
It's just one of the swords that came with the kit




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