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Post your custom projects here; mods, fixes, repaints, dios, effects parts, accessories, 3D printed stuff, or whatever else you're working on.

Offer tips and advice, ask for help, post tutorials/guides, and have fun!
>>
>>6223116
Here's some tips from the previous threads:

Beginners: practice on cheap figures first.

For sculpting on figures: use 2-part epoxy putty like Aves apoxie or fixit.

For tools: try a basic carving/sculpting set like the kind arts & crafts stores have, and calipers for symmetry.
Dental tools have also been said to work well.
Also, using a Dremel is recommended. Minimites (the small $20-25 ones) are fine for starting out, but the battery life is poor. Upgrade to a corded one only if you want to get deeper into customizing. They are useful for stuff outside of the hobby though, so it's a good investment regardless.

For paints: use acrylics. Paint in multiple, thin coats. Brands like Vallejo/P3/Citadel are recommended, because of pigment quality.

Use a sealer when finished to protect your work. There are matte varieties and sealers that give a glossy look. As with painting, use multiple thin coats.

A flex shaft attachment on a Dremel is a godsend and relatively inexpensive. The grinding shield is also pretty useful, but you can improvise one using a cut open soda bottle.
>>
Also, there is a guide in the works, by mellow

http://pastebin.com/yiZV3s0R

Give feedback/critiques to help improve it.
>>
Remember those old Kamen Rider figures with removable armor that had unmasked heads? I kinda want to make some unmasked alternate heads for some of my riders, but I don't know what to use.
>>
>>6223142
What scale are the figures you have? If they're the new Shodo figures, G.I. Joe, Star Wars, Marvel and a few online stores like Boss Fight studios and Marauders Inc have 1:18 scale heads.

If they're 6 inch figs, Star Wars Black Series, WWE, Marvel and DC have a few lines.

If they're the large SIC figures, NECA and maybe the Jakks Pacific WWE figures.
>>
>>6223165
They are the 6 inch gimmick figures. I'll take a look at you suggestions. Thanks!
>>
What is Oyumaru made of? I can't find anything about it.
>>
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I've decided to make a custom removable, battle damaged mask for my new ultimate predator city.
Might try it again because the scaling looks a bit off
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>>6223292
>>6223292
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>>6223295
Thoughts?
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>>6223299
Last pic
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>>6223279
Ethylene alpha-olefin copolymer(99.9%) and pigment(0.1%)
>>
>>6223292
>>6223295
Scaling does look off, probably because his mandibles are open and the materials of the mask might be too thick.
>>
>>6223315
Yeah the open mandibles don't help.
Just waiting for the day neca actually releases a good predator figure with a removable mask that doesn't look like shit.
>>
>>6223306
Thanks, m8.
>>
>>6223116
>tfw you make it into a header image

What's the difference between Apoxie Scupt and Milliput? I've already got Milliput, but will have to order Apoxie since I can't find anyone selling it near me.
>>
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Sunflowmon is in the final stretch. I'll take photos with something besides a potato when it's done.
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How hard would it be to make a transforming figure if I'm starting with a gunpla-like frame and basing it on one of those one step beast wars figures? Would it still be hard if the transformation is at most bringing down the head to the chest and standing it up?

I'm thinking of just giving up on finding my grail since it is not only a KO but also from a line without any specific name that would often use the official name.
>>
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Can someone tell a color-blind anon what color his clothes are?
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>>6224486
grey shirt, redish brown leather vest, dark brown pants, lighter brown shoes. everything is dusty/dirty and faded looking.
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>>6224508
Thanks. I was way off haha.
>>
>>6224508
>>6224516

not sure if he's trolling or I'm color blind too because that is not a reddish brown vest
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>>6223456
Nice progress! My only critique is making it chibi/stubbier would have let it stand on its own better, but whatever works for you.


I'm working on the 'NERF' blaster for class. I just need to finish the intermittent part between the revolving parts and the firing mechanism, and finish the housing for the firing mechanism, before I can work on the shell.
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>>6224770
I know I'll have to have some of the parts laser sintered for strength and and functionality, but I intend to FDM as much as I can to save money. So far so good.
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>>6224773
I will be molding and recasting the cleaned up parts, so I'll likely ream out the barrels on the cast pieces.
>>
>>6224486
Dark grey vest with red-brown buttons, dirty light grey shirt, dark grey pants with beige mud on them, brown shoes.

>>6224508 is slightly colorblind.
>>
>>6224779
this is the correct answer
>>
>>6224770
Thanks! I'm working off the DMO model for proportions. A chibi one is a cute idea too, though. Now I kind of want to make one with the leftover fabric, haha.

The legs are a little thicker now that I've finished stuffing them, but you're right. It definitely wouldn't be able to stand without the armature.

I'm not really sure how this is going to look when it's finished. I ended up using a Chinese knockoff Minky, because Shannon doesn't make a proper #008000-type green for some reason. This stuff comes in like twice as many colors (and is unexpectedly nice fabric), but it has a vertical stretch that I didn't account for in the pattern.

I think I'm eventually going to make a second one out of real Minky, using the knockoff stuff only for the wings.

>>6224773
>>6224777
Daaaamn, do you have some sort of schematic to base the revolving parts off, or did you have to design them from scratch? I wouldn't even know where to start designing mechanism like that.
>>
>>6224486
Have some color hex codes picked from moderately-lit areas of the figure:
vest:#525252
shirt:#6B6D63
buttons on shirt:#6C4943
pants:#44403E
mud on pants;#7C665B
>>
>>6224779
>>6224932
Thanks!
>>
>>6224862
I'm not sure how Shannon became the 'official' version of a lot of fabrics, I think it's the furry fandom that gave it that status. Ether way, care to share your alternate supplier?

And I'm reengineering it all from 3-4 existing NERF blasters, so I'm learning from them.Nerf has a few different revolvers, o I'm figuring from them.
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>>6225113
I'm surprised to hear the furry fandom made it popular. It's not used for fursuits, is it? I mostly see it used for pokemon and custom artist plushies.

>https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1724559
Hopen Textiles plush fabric. It's got a 1.5mm pile and it's a little less shiny than Shannon Minky. It stretches in both directions, and light colors become a little bit see-through if firmly stuffed. It held up fine through a wash, but I did line dry it to be safe. A swatch set runs about 25 dollars.
>>
>>6225265
Nice, thank you!

Shannon manufactures the shag furs they use for fursuits. They're not good-quality fur, but it's soft, cheap, and in a bunch of colors so it gets hyped up. I would not be shocked if the furry community brought the preference over, probably through Pokemon or MLP plush makers.
>>
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>>6225294
Speaking of, do you have any recommendations for faux fur brands? I'd like to make a Phascomon plushie, but it's so hard to find good stuff.

I have some samples of Shannon's shorter pile furs and they're pretty gross. I'd rather not resort to the really pricey stuff like Tissavel, but it looks like I might have to.
>>
>>6225294
Tfw internally jelly of your work
>>
>>6225321
I've found a weird long-pile minky, but only offline and in very limited colors. Last I saw some was a year ago at Discount Fabrics in SF.

Only other thought for shortish fur is faux seal but its density is detrimental. The seams are SUPER obvious, and the pile more or less just stands on end so it makes adding facial features a pain. I'd just stick with minky.
>>
>>6225334
>>6225321
This seems about correct, but I'd have to order a swatch. http://bigzfabric.com/index.php/fabrics/minky-cuddle-fabric/minky-solid-shaggy-baby-soft-fabric/minky-solid-shaggy-baby-soft-fabric-brown-sold-by-the-yard.html
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Well there it is, the stupidest thing I've ever read.
>>
>>6223116
Where did that Rag figure come from? Or what was it based on.
>>
If I had a 3d model to use would that help?
>>
>>6225520
well if the figure had any actual value then yes he is right. These normies come into the hobby thinking it is still the early nineties or something where MISB was a huge deal.
>>
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I used a cheap handkerchief in the right color and some wire to be able to pose it. Now it's done.
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Has anyone had a caster custom scale a specific head (making it about 30% larger in this case)? Any idea which of them would do that or what it would cost?
>>
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Coming along well so far today, gotta finish the housing, THEN add the rotary mechanism, and break everything up to print. After that, if everything works smoothly, I can start on aesthetics.
>>
Are the Body-kun and Body-chan KOs any good?
>>
>>6226304
I have the KO Body-chan and it's alright. Personally I prefer the articulation Figmas use over it (that being said it's the only Figuarts-type figure I own too), but it was decent for fodder.

Only complaints:
1) The hands didn't pop off that easily (which is scary considering how tiny the pegs for them are).

2) The rod for the toes' hinges came out too easily prompting me to superglue them in their holes to keep them situated.

3) Some joints were tight to the point of risking being broken. Had to use a fresh hobby knife blade to loosen tight joints.

Personally prefer Archetype She Next, but Body-chan is decent enough for fodder still.
>>
>>6226923
Thanks.
Speaking of the figmas, have the Archetype Next figmas improved over the old Archetype KOs? I read somewhere that they worked but I had already read here that the old ones were crap and had to have all their joints replaced to work.
>>
>>6227252
I have one of the original KO Archetype Hes and maybe I was lucky, but he's still holding up well? The peg on the stand broke, but the figure's joints are still intact, even after being 'borrowed' by the furniture design class for a semester.

If the new ones are an improvement they should be pretty sturdy.
>>
>>6227292
>paying too much for school
>can't be bothered to spend $10 more on archetype
>>
>>6224486
>open file in photo editor
>use eyedropper tool
>click on color
>read RGB data

yw
>>
>>6225520
while i cringe at reading this, do have to admit theres situations where he's right

ie "i used a rare/expensive figure for a custom but have no skillsets to utilize for the project, so it came out undeniably bad"

speaking the obvious here, but still

>>6225726
greatly depends on the projects details and the resulting outcome of quality

it if comes out looking like a sonichu figure then yeah, he dun goofed.

before neca TMNT's were bootlegged to hell they were fairly expensive even loose, but good customs (various recolorings, retools, full customs such as slash etc) were expensive as all hell and sold/sell good
>>
>>6227252
I own a flesh-colored She Next KO as well as the Orange She Next KO. Joints are still intact though I've learned to be careful with bootlegs regardless after KO Snake and Saber both shattered at their joints in multiple places.

The flesh She Next had the toe-hinge pins come loose easily like Body-chan so I had to glue them too. Other issue I had was some tightness at a few joints (carefully worked the joints to be looser) and the chest diaphragm double-joint was off-centered resulting in a wide opening in bending the figure's chest backwards.

The Orange She Next KO had feet lacking a hinge that newer auctions on EBay for flesh She Next's also lack. Guess it was more trouble than it was worth for the Chinese *shrugs*. Anyways the Orange She Next had no real issues outside of mold flash in the plastic at parts and varying degrees of tightness/looseness in joints. Both are great for fodder, I even used my Flesh She's body for a custom Rei Ayanami figure (transplanted the head of an Evangelion Portraits 1/12 figure to it).
>>
Is it advisable to do some weathering/dry brushing to my star wars black series blasters without doing any sort of priming or paint thinning?

I want to add some details to the guns that are just black plastic, but I don't want the paint rubbing off onto my figures when they're holding the guns.
>>
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>>6227598
These are the supplies I have to work with.
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>>6227311
I got it when the Archetypes were new for $10 off ebay, just something to use as a structure and jointing reference. The rest of my Figma are real, just felt like a waste to buy official when I intended to cut it apart.
>>
>>6227576
Are the joints needed to replace the stock ones easily available?
I just remembered that I was going to use it to upgrade an old Sakuyamon figure and I'd need black joints if possible.
>>
>>6223419
Went ahead and ordered the Apoxie, dug out my Milliput and sculpting tools, and found my model paints.

At this point, I just need a recommendation for a topcoat that is relatively durable. I've read the Gunpla guide, and while I'd like to use a matte/flat topcoat, it doesn't look very durable in the long run (i.e. scratching/flattening if anything comes in contact). And Mr. Topcoat seems really expensive.
>>
>>6228144
You can always buy Hobby Base Joints if you wanted to replace everything except the tiny wrist and neck joints. Bootleg Archetypes new and old have yielded okay results for me so far.
>>
>>6227598
>>6227601
pls respond.

I've watched a bunch of youtube tutorials but none of them mention priming or clear coating when doing dry brushing. This is my first time painting anything.
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>>6228210

Try it out on some spare parts and see what works.
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>>6228205
Thanks.
>>
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>>6228217
My first attempts.

I think they look okay, I need to read up on proper weathering techniques though.

Also, the paint does rub off easily even when dry so I'll need some sort of finish to seal it. What's the best kind to use for this kind of thing?
>>
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Here's an update to the dark elf I'm working from the last thread. I started on the hair, but I'm out of black wire for now. I need to smooth out the tips and do something about her bangs next. As for clothing, I'm thinking of putting her in a black evening gown.
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Sunflowmon is almost finished, but I don't think I have eyes in the right size, so it's going on the shelf until I get some. It turned out pretty cool, but there's a few things I wanna tweak next time. This one's about 11" tall, I want to make the next one a little bigger.

>>6225344
Thanks for the tip, I'll have to check some out
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>>6229439
If you can find it grab Tamiya TS-80 flat, it has a great smooth finish for plastics
>>
So I have a broken Squid Girl Figma, and I'm customizing it into her swimsuit appearance. I've got most of the sculpting/modifications done (though I need some bare feet) but I decided to add some ass tech, as her default butt is decidedly unsatisfactory due to being an older Figma that's wearing a dress. This basically involved sculpting some cheeks onto her thigh pieces, and the sculpting itself is nearly done, I just need to do a bit of sanding and stuff to get them properly shaped and sized.

However, this does create a bit of an issue;the thigh pieces are going to need painting because of the putty, and even if I can mix up an exact match for her fleshtone, the thighs will look strange next to the unpainted plastic of the rest of her skin. I'm thinking of painting all the other fleshtone bits as well (perhaps giving her a tan?), though the face will be an issue. I'm not sure it's possible to paint "around" the face tampos, especially with an airbrush. I know masking is a thing but the eyes are just too finely detailed. Should I just leave her face untanned?
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The master is done so I'm in the process of breaking it up to make the assembly and create files for printing.
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>>6229691
Fuck it, here's some pics. Front view, need to spray the body white. Waist joint is pretty much borked so flexing/paint cracking shouldn't be an issue.
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>>6229720
Dat ass. In case you're wondering, her arms and head are detached for painting purposes, I only put her legs on to photo her.
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>>6229721
Back view. Still need to do some sanding before I paint her to get rid of excess putty.
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>>6225695
Very much so, did you make that yourself or did you find it somewhere?
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>>6229722
mask her face to make it look like she has tanlines from wearing sunglasses
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>>6229776
That's a good idea, I'll do that. Thanks mate.
>>
>>6223116
If I wanted to paint a Marvel Legends, would I need to disassemble the whole figure? And if I did, are there any tips on rebuilding I should know?
>>
>>6225525
Looks to be a well-modified Super Fumina.
There's several variants of her.
>>
>>6230388
Oh shit yeah I can see it now, thanks friendo
>>
>>6229647
Thanks man.

Just out of curiosity, how long would a 100ml can last me if I'm just using it for guns and maybe a couple of 6" figures? It seems kinda pricey for the amount you get but like I said I'm new to all of this so I don't know.
>>
Sunflowmon V1 is complete. I'm not sharing the pattern until I refine it and solve my fabric stretch issue, though. Here's what I plan to fix now:
>Rounder head with better neck silhouette
>Bigger facial marking
>Slightly bigger petals
>Smaller arms
>Bigger/better placed eyes
>Improved leg placement and center of gravity
Any other suggestions for improvement?

Now I need to stop procrastinating and finish Warumonzaemon's head.
>>
>>6231330
Aww, it's precious!
>>
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Is there a way to separate arm joints like these? New to these figures
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>>6232043
Is that a rivet? You'd probably have to either crimp or drill it out.
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>>6232052
It looks like a swivel joint, but not sure. All I need to do is flip it over so the arm can rotate fully.
>>
>>6232043
>>6232056
Came to me like this so I've been looking it up and that's my best guess so far.
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>>6232057
Also sorry for the spam, one last pic of the problem area
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>>6232060
Wait, is that the peg from the left arm? (see the L). What does the other one look like? Was this a knockoff?
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>>6232064
They're both L's. I'm returning it.
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Posting here while I wait for the Gunpla General as you guys would also be relevant. Sorry that this does technically go in the gunpla general but people here would know about the putty.

I'm stumped on part of a build. I am trying to show the cockpit I'm adding to this Mock, but I want to cover portions of it so it only shows the important mechanical elements, which I highlighted in the photo. I tried using Aves epoxy putty by attaching it to the edges and sanding it to the right shape but I'm guessing it doesn't grip/harden correctly because while sanding it always cracks. This is even though I've been told it should cure rock hard, and have tested some consistencies with the same result. I have plastic sheets too, but then they would need to bend. I intend to glue the clear green over the details so it shows through while not being exposed, sort of like a plane canopy.

Do I have to glue the epoxy putty to where it is staying? I feel there's some element I might get eventually, but maybe someone else here already knows that I'm screwing up somehow.

If anyone has a guide on using Aves epoxy I would greatly appreciate. Any time I build onto something I always end up crumbling the epoxy while sanding, unless it's going into a large cavity. I don't intend to make a downward cavity here, only a side to side cover which doesn't ever hold. Glue was what came to mind, but if I'm dumb for not making a beneath layer like a skeleton for the epoxy to go on then by all means point it out to me.
>>
>>6232043
That's a rivet, you have to drill it out to remove it.
>>
>>6232698
i really don't know what you're trying to do but yes Aves is brittle when it's thinner, you should try Tamiaya epoxy putty, specifically the 1 hour dry time because it is slightly more flexible
>>
Is it worth buying some common knock off figma (like magical girl madoka) to practice customization on?
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>>6232720
What I'm trying to do is make the putty replace the area I cut out of the model with a square hole in it to show the cockpit through the clear green plastic. I was told pretty much the same thing in the gunpla general, that epoxy doesn't take well to being moved unless on a stable plane so a thin styrene area it is attaching to would always render it cracked. Am I just not able to do this with Aves and forced to use solely styrene or the Tamiya putty? Already have a pound of this stuff and may as well learn to use it. Here's an attempt at explaining what I mean.
>>
>>6232729
>Beginners: practice on cheap figures first.
That could be knock offs or even "dollar store" figures.
>>
>>6232729
what >>6232755 said, It could be McDonald's toys from a yard sale and a bag of green army men. Cheap stuff, the cheapest even.
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>>6229629
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>>6231664
Thanks!

Oh, I had some questions for you, Squidanon. How much seam allowance do you use? Also do you wear a mask while trimming Minky or other fabrics that shed excessively?
>>
>>6223116
gentlemen.

what is the best rubber mold kit to buy to recast a medium detailed part on all sides?

I am recasting a transformer head that doesn't have any spikes or clear parts, just a voyager-ish sized head.

should I just get one of the rubber mold kits off of amazon or ??? I'm not huge on recasting, I've done it for detail parts on gundam kits in the past but this is a head so I can't just do one side. Would like to do it in one mold and make recasts for custom projects.
>>
>>6233366
If you're used to using a particular rubber for recasting detailed gundam parts, just use that. A kit won't help you sort out the method for doing a two or three part mold like it sounds like you need. You're going to need to spend some time figuring out the best places to make vents, the best direction to orient the head, and how to do your parts. And then when it comes down to it, you also need to determine how you're going to keep the whole mold tied together.

I've had medium success with simple pieces like guns and heads that don't have a ton of pokey parts. My downfall usually turned out to be a few things:
1) I didn't figure my vents or gates out properly, resulting in resin that didn't reach into a particular place.
2) I didn't bind the entire mold together firmly enough, or didn't make a big enough mold for ever a small part, resulting in a warped or slightly "ballooned" part.
3) I didn't de-gas my resin, so there were small bubbles in it after it'd cured, which I had to fill in after the fact.

All I ever used was the basic Smooth-On kit. For doing two-part molds, I had made boxes out of Lego or from cardboard sealed with hot glue, and modeling clay.
>>
>>6233362
I use an very small seam allowance, about 1/8". I hand-sew literally everything so I can make do with less.

I don't tend to wear masks or respirators unless I'm sanding or working with chemicals. Do people usually wear duskmasks for cutting piled fabrics? It seems excessive.
>>
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>>6234301
This reminds me I still have an incomplete Super Fumina that I lack motivation to build because of how underwhelming it was as a waifubot.
>>
>>6229722
Id like to see more progress with this.
>>
>>6234261
Oh man, I do not envy you. I can't imagine hand-sewing all those tentacles.

You don't get a sore throat from airborne the minky fibers? I read some "working with minky tips" article a while ago that suggested a mask. It definitely makes a difference for me.
>>
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>>6234682
The plush I started with had a lot of really finicky places where machine sewing couldn't work. Add trying to fill orders on the go and I had to git gud.

I don't really notice? I worked in a JoAnn's for a while on top of sewing 24/7 so I may just have a built-up resistance.
>>
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Here's a major custom I wanna do. For a Transformers Combiner Wars Helicopter team, I need a big helicopter torso. So what I'm doing here is to fuse Onslaught and the Victorion torso together and turn it into an helicopter.

The easy part swapping is done but there will be some serious modding to be done for the main combiner head. I want this to remain a fembot. On the picture, I plan to put the main rotorblade on top of the main combiner head. Ideally, it would stay attached and then fold back as a kinda "ponytail". Dunno what parts to use though. As for the tail, the one from Xover Spiderman would be perfect right here.

Finally, I'll use something to cover the wheels sections. Dunno if I'll manage to close the gap in the middle with extra pannellings. The goal is to make a copter that make sense while still being able to transform into all 3 modes. Ideally, no partsforming.
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I just baught her at yard sale for $1
Any ideas on how to fix her up?
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>>6225726
>>6227334
Unicron hips
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>>6235222
Is that a G1 Joe? If yes, it's a miracle the waist rubber band still hold. As for the nipple paint, you'll have to challenge yourself by trying to mix a color that match. As for what kind of paint, I have no idea. Maybe oil Testor?
>>
>>6234938
This is a noble goal. You'll need a heavy joint at the neck of this figure in order to keep it from drooping constantly under the weight of the rotor. And a chopper this size will have a huge rotor, too. Keep that in mind.
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>>6225344
Hmmmm... I've always thought about making fur capes and cloaks for some of my figures...
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>>6235303

I just had a brilliant idea. I'll have to get and use a DOTM Skyhammer. The rotor blades will be fixed on the combiner torso crotch plate. In torso mode, it will fold into a X below the crotch and over the hips. The rotorblades may be too small so I'll just have to glue on some plates to enlarge them.

To illustrate I'm showing off my custom DOTM Shackwave.
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>>6234938
Oh hey Kanrabat, fancy seeing you here.

Anyway, you might get some mileage out of a cheap toy helicopter for the top rotors rather than chopping up a Skyhammer. I'd like to see this done though, an all-helicopter combiner sounds cool. Alternatively, you could do something different and relieve a Movie 2007 Incinerator of his arms/rotors and make it into an Osprey/generic tiltwing VTOL.

Oh, and one more thing- you might want to consider investing in an airbrush and the space to use it. Seriously. Learn to use it well and it'll make painting that much less tedious (and also should eliminate brushmarks/globbiness/streakiness that is unavoidable with handbrushing on large areas).
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>>6234524
Thanks mate. I've gotten some fine grit sandpaper (2000 and 5000 to go with my existing 120) and I'm currently sanding down the surfaces in preparation for paint. Unfortunately I have no airbrushing setup ATM and I don't think hand painting would work for this, so until I have a proper spray booth that I can set up somewhere indoors she's on hiatus. I do still need to source some bare feet for her as well to complete the swimsuit look, as well as decide on a "tanned" paint mix to go for. Unfortunately the vast majority of my paints are Citadel, which are great for hand painting but not very cost effective for airbrushing (though the small size of the figure means I shouldn't need too much anyway). I'm also deciding on whether or not she should be matte (to match "normal" Figmas) or gloss (to look like she's been for a swim/wearing sun tan lotion or whatever). I'm worried the gloss finish could look kinda odd, and I don't want her to look like she's oiled up for her first night in a Soapland.
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>>6235697

Yeah, I should defenitely buy a airbrush kit and learn how to use it.

For now, I'm bidding on a complete Animated Leader Megatron. Just for the rotor blades If I can use other parts, it would be cool as well. My friend really want a dual rotor blades helicopter. Some partforming may be nessessary for transformation however. I'll add a mount in the front that will detatch and plug elsewhere. Also, the blades can transform so that's a must.
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>>6235702
Actually a Chinook would be a great alt mode. I don't think we've really gotten many Chinook transformers, which is a shame as they're really cool aircraft.
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>>6235704
Hell yeah! He always liked that. He have a gobot that have this altmode since childhood and he told me often that's one CD torso he regret they never did.

I told him this will be impossible to do but.... Oh, it shall be done! Sure, it will not be accurate at all, but it will follow the principle. Also, that long body of the firetruck torso is perfect for this project.
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http://nov.2chan.net/y/res/3645382.htm

>If you saw a case that made a mud doll until it became a prototype master, you must support him

Deep
If it was posted anywhere else he would surely get shitted on
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>>6236921
I can't even make fun of this.
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Do the potted Tamiya Clear and Flat Clear work as topcoats? I was thinking of using them rather than spraycan varnish but I'm not sure if they'd actually be any tougher than regular paint.
>>
Anyone knows what paint to use to get the exact black shade that the Marvel Legends Venom/Symbiote Spidey have??
>>
Pic-related is my photo-edited mockup of a Black Manta custom I'm contemplating. Thing is, I'm torn between the two color schemes, so I thought I'd ask people's opinion.

A bit of context, left is inspired from the character's appearance in JUSTICE by Alex Ross, and it's meant to have a retro deep sea diver vibe which is what Manta's helmet was originally based on. Right is inspired from his modern appearances in the New 52/Rebirth comics which ditches the silver neck in favor of adding red lines on top of black, simulating the gill slits of a Manta Ray.

Any thoughts?
>>
Can someone post pictures of the modded Lina a few threads back?
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>>6238181
I wanna see what it looks like with both the silver neck and the red "gills". I think that might be the best combination.
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>>6238286
Hm, I tried combining it by coloring the inside portion of the neck with silver while having the outside portions in black to keep the colors within the intended panel lines of the sculpt. I'll admit I'm not minding this so far, so thanks for the tip.
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I want to make a Tomoko figma. How should I go about this? There's a statue that exists that isn't too pricey. Should I just buy that and try to turn it into a figure? Should I kitbash various figma together?

I'm not sure how well pic related scales with typical schoolgirl figmas so if anyone knows let me know.
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>>6238911
Statues are generally much bigger than Figmas. I'd consider trying to find a similar looking schoolgirl Figma and using her as a base.
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>>6238911
This statue is 7 inches tall. Too bad. I was gonna suggest you cannibalize it for parts and fit them onto an existing Figma body. You might do okay with cutting it apart, dremeling out approprivate divots and drilling holes, then inserting Revolver joints. You'll probably have to do some sculpting with epoxy putty though, since some of her was sculpted in fixed poses (like her bent right arm).

However, I really doubt you'll be able to find Revolver joints that match her jacket color, and you can't paint them so...you're probably gonna be stuck with weird colored joints.
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>>6238931
Could figma joints work, too?
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>>6238201
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>>6239216
Yes, but figma joints can only be obtained for randomized lots sold on EBay or by cannibalizing existing figures. Hobby Base makes slim joints that are similar to figma joints (not identical, but close) that you can paint and seal.
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>>6239230
Oh cool. I might just suck it up in regards to scale then and just make that statue articulated? idk, i don't think i could sculpt a ton of new parts for a figma.
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>>6239233
If you don't care about scale go for it. Just make sure you REALLY don't mind.
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>>6239224
Thank you! Wonder what parts he used besides the statue.
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>>6239273
He uses a lot of 4 inch figures for his customs. GI Joe, Microman, MU, Bandai and Shodo.
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>>6239233
I used the sphere Hobby base joints for a 6inch statue of Ranka Lee from Marcos's Frontier. I don't mind the scale. Technically, Ranka is 1/4 Zentrodi so being tall could be explained as a genetic defect like Klan being a loli in micronized form.
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>>6239380
>Mari Makinami as a NEET
>That Solidus
>>
Are the Kotobukiya MSG hands in scale with 6 inch figures, or with Beast Wars figures more specifically? All I own from them is one FAG and it's closer to a 7 inch figure in size.
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>>6240627
I take it you don't have any Gundam figures, the 1/100 scale figures are about 6 inches tall, but robots can have different sized hands so it's not really an accurate comparison across toy lines, MSG also makes 1/144 scale hands.
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I'm wondering if any anons would like to go in on this lot with me. Does $50 seems like a good starting bid or is that too much for 3.75 scale parts?

>http://www.ebay.com/itm/332156633526
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>>6239380
you need to stop smoking around your toys
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>>6242146
I'd pay 50 bucks for that.
>>
After 17 days my chibi figure's here, sprue intact. If the joints fit I'll design interlocked joints for it so I can print it assembled on the Stratasys at school.

Anyone else ever get a chance to print on one of those machines? They're like a mix of an SLA machine and SLS, parts get laser sintered on a bed in I thiiink liquid nylon? The printed parts are suspended in this gelatin-like rubbery support structure and are super smooth and step free. I had a few parts of my nerf blaster printed on the school's stratysys and they're fantastic.
>>
>>6238911
Do you have examples of statues with custom articulation?
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>>6223119
>>6223118
Alright, customizers, open question:

Mineral spirits or acetone? For general, removing-paint-from-plastic usage.
>>
>>6242601
And more specifically, what's a good way to dip your toe in the solvent? As in, who has a good deal on paint thinner for the purposes of removing paint from plastic, and definitely not for the purposes of getting fucked up.
>>
>>6242601
>>6242604
Just use isopropyl alcohol.
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>>6242601
Avoid acetone, it'll melt plastic.
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>>6242541
I'm actually also interested in seeing statues that were turned into figures.
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>>6242958
>>6242541
Some guy here was working on a Shinji figure by cutting up a statue of him.

There's also some articulated amiibos out there.
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>>6242964
Here's a prize figure of Ranka Lee I added Hobby base sphere joints to. Revoltech Big Chap for size-reference.
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>>6242972
And my failed attempt at Shinji....
Learning experience nonetheless that helped me do a better job with Ranka.
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Some photos of the sprue. I'm prolly going to reprint the joints on the Stratasys, but sanding MUST be done.
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Faceplates fit great, at least.
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>>6243039
The snap-fit is good, too much friction in this material.
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>>6243048
This is dope, but...how are you going to smooth it? Sand, paint, maybe light clear gloss?
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>>6243048
3D prints suck...
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>>6243062
This is a test of fit and joints, so I only need it smooth enough to fit together. The next 'generation' will have sculpted clothes and hair.

>>6243077
If I printed it on the Strat it would have been perfect. $200, yes, but perfect.
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>>6238630
This is coolest version.
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>>6243085
200 to print it or for the printer?
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>>6243039
sculpteo does some sort of liquid polishing now
imaterialize has some wonderful materials but yeah they're fucking expensive
3d hub is good for some materials
i've had some luck sanding and then priming with mr.surfacer then sanding again on polyamaride to where it is smooth as glass. tamiya primer though is better for any parts under stress because mr.surfacer will crack
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>>6243669
200 for the print
lol, she's throwing around big words to sound cool but none of you guys know what they are so it isn't working
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>>6243669
For an SLS machine? No, but there's FDM printers like the Monoprice Mini that retail for that. SLS (and Polyjet, which is technically what the Stratasys at school uses) printing is expensive because the processes and materials are all locked in patent hell for now. Stratasys is a company that owns a lot of the better patents so they charge what they want for their materials cuz no one else is allowed to sell them. The patents are starting to expire, at least, so it may get cheaper.

I left the gun parts at school for the weekend but I'll post some photos this week. Aside from the support the prints come out of the machine looking like how people who have just heard of 3D printing imagine the results are like.
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>>6243700
I think I'm going to end up having to redrill the holes for the joints, but otherwise I may just use Bondo primer on the main surfaces and call it a day. I dunno if I want to actually make anyone out of the prototype, I kind of like just having it plain.
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>>6242972
She's a big girl. Are you going to finish it? You should use putty to finish those limbs.
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>>6243873
damn that's rough, I was gonna get a ~600 dollar printer, but if the situation's like that then I'm just gonna stick to sculpting figures
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>>6244261
A $600 FDM isn't bad for larger items, but smaller detailed things can get lost in the support material unless you're using something with a dual-extruder to print with a soluble support material. There's a lot more hand finishing you'll have to do with the prints too, so be ready for that. If what you want to print will work with FDM then getting a printer will save you money in the long run. Just don't get a printer that uses cartridges or proprietary filament. I use Argos brand PLA on my Monoprice Mini and it works fine.
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>>6244104
Sadly not for a while. Finally got a new full-time job that's CAD-centered and so what little time outside of work I have will be for sharpening my skills and the occasional prints for getting more things available for my Shapeways shop. I even had to put my commission for the curvy OC on hiatus.

I'll likely be putting out just parts for figures for now instead of full-on blanks to get things available faster (mainly monstergirl limbs and a few anthro/furry parts for swapping out on figma's and revotechs).

One complete figure is being printed right now and should it be successful this time I'll upload it to my shop for sale. All I can tell you all is that it's a dinosaur.
>>
Modified my lich King to be a little more accurate to the WoW game model. I dremeled his face down, painted it black, painted the eyes white, cut the hair off, and glued the side of the cheek guards down to make it a little more narrow.
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So I managed to get one of these for MSRP and it is super high quality for an amiibo. Legs are articulated, but I was thinking of attempting to upgrade it by adding a swivel to the "neck" and possibly going as far as trying to replace the eye with an LED.

The neck has a flat, circular mold gap between two little cogs, so I think taking the head off would be as simple as using an x-acto knife and a razor to carefully lop that shit off. After that, hollowing it out should be just as easy with some knife and file work.

So once I get that far, what should I do? I'll need:
- Some kind of epoxy/resin/clay? Something that air dries, naturally.
- A swivel, which I suppose could be as simple as a small metal rod/high gauge wire

And if I go all the way, I'd need some kind of LED rig that can be embedded in the modelling material. The figure's body could be hollowed out to make space for a battery at the top, and even a controller if need be but I'd definitely need someone else to plan it because I have no experience with electronics.

Sort of have three options for the light, then:
- Just one red LED activated by turning the head forwards, using the swivel in the neck to activate the switch (probably going to do this since it would take minimal effort and work well enough, plus the thing could be turned off by just putting a non-metal support in the neck)
- An RGB LED activated by some kind of clusterfuck contraption
- Go absolutely all the way maximum tryhard, cut apart the figure at all moldlines, dremel all of the areas with red paint and replace them with transparent resin and then rig the entire figure up with RGB LEDs (not going to do this, but throwing the idea out there for anyone crazy enough to try)
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Working on Metroid with LED. USB powered with 24 button remote.


Fucked it up but not bad first attempt
Need to find a better way to hide the USB wire and get a portable power source for fucking around.

Need to find a way to insulate the lights more, too.
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>>6245244
really nice. I like arthas but a more mysterious looking lich king is super cool.
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Working on my first custom. It's gym leader Sabrina from FRLG. It's slow going, but lots of fun learning the different tools. I have a new hair piece and face coming in the post, that might suit better. I dunno if her stocking proportions are right - maybe they need to be a tad higher?
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>>6245837
Here's her ref by the way.
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>>6242964
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>>6245720
Gotta find a way to seal the gap between the top and bottom
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>>6245881
good enough for now, i'll do better with the next one
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>>6245483
Wait, is that thing rare now? I find it every time I'm at any store that sells Amiibo.
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>>6245837
The stockings should be slightly higher to cover the knee.
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>>6246135
It seems hit or miss, some places still have it but there are online retailers trying to sell it for 200% markup.
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>>6246575
thanks anon! I reckon you're right; i'll pull them up a bit higher.
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I figure this would be the best place to ask this. I recently got pick relates and I want to use the doll body with the modern red costume, but I also want to use the "vintage mego" costume as a display piece.

So my question is how difficult is it to swap heads on the other vintage mego style toys that one might find in TRU or comic shops? I was thinking about getting a DC Flash and swapping the head and costume.
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I used hobby spray paint to color hair part for a custom. I believe it's an enamel. but it rubs/flakes off super easy.
anyway to remedy this? clear coat? or am I better off cleaning it off and repainting it with acrylic?

pic unrelated
>>
I need some purchasing advice. I have this Bastion blind box figure that I hamhandled and dropped a heavy object on, exploding all the extremities off almost perfectly.

I want to dremel out the leftover pegs and plug in some joints, but the parts are very small. Are there any decent joint packs for model kits of varying sizes? I'd like to avoid using ebay if I can.
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Making a decently poseable 1998 godzilla.
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>>6247985
I don't know the exact answer but I got the Thor. The head broke immediately after pulling it off. The next head worked ok but still badly bent the plastic. The last head couldn't fit on so I had to trim some plastic. I was horribly disappointed with the figure, especially the articulation.
>>
>>6248027
The right arm on the buck of my deadpool seems to be damaged out of box too, but not in such a way that it is unusable, it's shoulder is just loose. It can come out of it's socket, but the other side is pretty lodged in. I can't tell if it's a molding issue or actually broke, but nothin is rattling around inside, so I assume it was some kind of factory error.

On the plus side, that arm is much more posable.

Quality issues aside, I still want the spider-man set.
>>
File deleted.
my 1:18 jacket from hotline miami in sprite colours
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>>6248198
Try that again without the pixels
>>
What do you clean your brushes with?
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>>6248215
depends on what paint youre using
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>>6248012
that's cool. did you use the lizard as a base?
>>
Asking anyone who has experience customizing Marvel Legends, is it safe for the figures to shave down the sculpt on the thighs? What would be the most efficient way to do it?
Also, can epoxy putty stick to the plastic used for the feet?
I'll be working with the incoming Sunfire as a base once it's released.
>>
>>6223325

Ahab Predator is pretty cute
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>>6248262
I wanted to use amazing spiderman lizard but couldnt find one so i used a batman vs superman bat creature and sculpted the lizard details on the smooth buck.
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>>6223116
I wanna try and fix up the secondary head that came with figma Saitama, i'd much prefer to seal his open mouth and add some more fitting look to his face but i'm unsure the best method of doing either.
>>
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Working on my first custom weapon. It's the Astro Axe for the Legacy Blue Space Ranger.

It's made from assorted leftover Gunpla parts and I made a few changes to make it easier for the figure to hold, so it's not accurate in terms of proportions, but I like it so far.

Obviously still have a long way to go. lol
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>>6249025
Here's a look at him holding it, plus an image of how the original looks.

Pretty excited to get painting and to add the remaining details.
>>
does anyone know an easy way to open up the torso on the Cable Marvel Legend? his chest isn't like normal ML torsos and I don't think the few methods I know about would work.
>>
>>6223116
I wanna ask what Body and Head used on that Barbatos at that pic?
>>
Any good tutorials for learning to cast resin without having to use equipment to remove bubbles and such? I want to cast small parts to begin with but I din't want to buy any bulky or expensive equipment yet.
>>
>>6250327
Best you can do is tap or bang the bottom of your mixing cup to try to force the bubbles up, but you're going to have some bubbles no matter what unless you use a vacuum chamber.
>>
Colorblind anon here. They look almost identical to my eye and their rgb codes are similar, but is Vallejo's flat yellow a good color for Ryona's hair? If not, does anyone have another good option?
>>
>>6250646
You aren't off by much, maybe go one shade paler
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>>6250646
They're almost identical, but her hair is slightly warmer/more golden.
>>
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I brought a kemonomimi kit for shamrock and was wondering what would be the best material to thicken up the pegs a little so they wont fall out but they would still be removable?
Would Aves apoxie be good for this too or is there something else?

For now the tail fits in with a small piece of paper but for the ear pieces I'll need to make a slightly curved peg.
Sorry to ask about such a minor add on but it seems better to ask here than the daibai general.
>>
>>6250683

You can try certain kinds of nail polish, super glue (letting it dry first of course!), or /toy/'s go to for most joint tightening, future shine.
>>
>>6250679
>>6250682
Thanks, I'll try adding a touch of white before I start painting.
>>
>>6250683
>>6250702
I haven't experienced, so this might just be hokum, but I've heard that certain regular clear nail polish can damage certain plastics. If that's resin, nail polish would likely be the best and easiest since future can be a bitch to find.
>>
>>6250327
also hover a lighter or match over the top of the cast if it has an open section and that'll draw the bubbles up which you can pop

How do people remove paint from Nendoroid faceplates? I've removed one and i can't seem to get rid of the residue, luckily this one is going to be airbrushed but the other one isn't so I don't want the white residue.
>>
>>6250702
>>6250746
Thank you both!, I have a lot of ears I can test on so Ill be sure to try each method.
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>>6250913
Lacquer thinner
http://mikatan.goodsmile.info/en/2012/11/07/painting-a-nendoroid-expression-part-1-basic-knowledge-tools-of-the-trade/

>the lacquer thinner will leave the surface a big rough which will cause the colors to run, so first rub on some lacquer clear!
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>>6252427
Thanks, mate.
>>
So I want to do a little project where I replace all the plastic parts of a highly poseable/detailed figurine with metal duplicates. How would I go about doing this? Anyone have experience in this?

My idea is to make molds for all the parts, pour molten metal in said molds, and viola. Easier said than done I'd imagine, especially since I've never worked with metal outside of bending sheet metal.

First off, what material could I even use for a mold that would withstand the high heat of a molten metal? Something that would also retain finer details of a part too?

I understand different metals have different properties, so selecting a metal or alloy would probably be very important too. I know bismuth has an interesting property that when it transitions from liquid back to solid, it expands, which would make for a useful component to an alloy to cram itself into finely detailed grooves and crevices (though, that may prove to be disastrous if the mold cannot handle the forces delivered by the expansion). Another thing that may be of consideration is perhaps a metal/alloy with a low melt temp (if making a mold that will not hold up to the high heats of most liquid metals)? I could use solder for a low melt point metal in that case.

I guess the other problem would be in articulation. I'd imagine using metal would completely fuck with the poseability of a figure since it was designed to hold up lightweight plastic (given that the metal/alloy I end up using is heavier that the original plastic). I guess, a way I could mitigate that problem is by adding more friction at the joints/hinges by throwing in some rubber polymer?

Would love some advice/guidance. I know I'm a complete newbie, but I think I could pull it off with the right direction.
>>
>>6254385
Well, first off what type of figure are you going to replicate into metal form? Shinki, Revoltech/Figma, Marvel Legends, Transformer, Neca, etc? That alone will narrow down the engineering aspect for joints. If it's Figma/Revoltech/etc then you're really just making castings of the body parts and reattaching the joints for the most part. Something with sculpted joints will make it a little more complicated.

I've thought about trying this too, though my only metal option given my resources (excluding printing metals from Shapeways, which I have yet to try) is to use lead-free solder.

For molds, you could always do a sand-casting. Look that up the videos and tutorials on it for the details. I have no clue if that moldable sand stuff for kids is safe to use with hot solder but I'll give it a try in the coming month.
>>
>>6254590
Moonsand prolly isn't safe, unless I'm wrong the 'moldable' feature comes from corn syrup?

Couldn't they just do a 'lost wax' technique? Unless they use suplicates they'll lose the original figure, but it should work. I think they use plaster for molds like that, finer detail than with sand. If they use lost wax, though, bismuth wouldn't be suitable because its super low melting point wouldn't be enough to melt/burn out the original parts.
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>>6254599
http://www.instructables.com/id/Lost-Wax-Casting/?ALLSTEPS I know folks use 3D printed PLA and ABS parts with the lost wax technique, so it should be possible to do that with an ABS toy.
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>>6254590
I intend to do a transformer (beast wars line), so things may be complicated. Did not know 3d printed metals were a thing, I could very well give that a go, though you'd need CAD files of each part, and I don't think guesstimating will work out very well (add to the fact I have no experience with solidworks).

I've looked into sand-casting before, though I'd probably need to get a (few) junk toys whose parts I can melt down with high melt temp metal.

>>6254599
>>6254601
I think this idea of wax casting would work best, though I need a way of making the wax copy first... perhaps using a regular silicone mold to cast the wax?
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does anyone know if a model putt would do well with hiding bends in limbs where the pins or ball joints are, esentially making a artificial knee or elbow or does it end up looking fucked up?
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>>6255211
>putt
Do you mean the fill in the hole where the pin is with putty, like in Skeletor's elbow joint? Or the entire elbow, killing the articulation?
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>>6254835
You could cast wax in silicone molds, but that will also add a good amound to the overall cost.

For Solidworks I suggest getting a cheap pair of digital calipers for like $20 on Amazon. They're super useful for taking measurements to use in modeling.
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Hey /toy, I wanna make a custom SH Figuarts of the time force red ranger but have no experience whatsoever about making customs and don't know how to sculpt, so I was wondering what tutorials I could check out to help me?




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