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File: Hi-Nu (Copy).jpg (793 KB, 1600x1200)
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For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.

>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"

***READ THE GUIDE***

IRC Channel
>Server
Rizon
>Channel
#gunpla

The guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Tr8UyF2Xg5Ojqw0sxcO7oIG7IIsJPes3lMO5pHZKu5o

And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com
Some line art: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
http://gundma.imgur.com/


Old thread: >>6234600
>>
>>6240155
Woot! I made the cover again! Lets see If I can't knock it out again once I start work on the Jesta
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>>6240193
Jest do it.
>>
So it looks like Innocentia got delayed until April. More time to grind my backlog.
>>
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>>15323092
>>15323086
>>15323080
>>15323074

Cross posting for advice. The only thing I can think of is maybe I got too close, but I kept the can around a foot away from the pieces.

Also, working on the MG Jesta
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What are you currently working on /gpg?
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>>6240387
Gotta finish sanding then detailing my Char's Zaku MG. I built the HG Ground GM last weekend to try and get the hang of sanding since I'm still pretty new. It was easier than I thought when I figured out which grits worked best. I think it came out pretty well and I'm ready to clean up my Zaku.
>>
>>6240385
What are you needing advice for? Can't see the post.
>>
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>>6240385
I'm retarded

>>>/m/15323092
>>>/m/15323086
>>>/m/15323080
>>>/m/15323074

>>6240387
Working on figuring out my paint woes, putting together a Jesta MG, and topcoating a Vidar and a Spiegel gundam.
>>
>>6240387
first gunpla
>>
>>6240398
Good taste.
>>
>>6240398
A commendable choice
(And mustache)
>>
>>6240394
See >>6240397
I messed up the posting.
>>
>>6240398
I'm sorry.
>>
>>6240155

Thinking of buying a new airbrush, I've got the Harbor Freight Special and an IWATA HP-A that has a stupidly tiny resovoir that's a bitch to clean.

Is that badger in the guide still a good option or should I shell out the extra 15$ for this?

https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Revolution-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B000BQS3UW/ref=sr_1_27?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1489710692&sr=1-27&keywords=airbrush

I'm just using the Harbor Freight compressor right now. As far as I know it works fine and I've never had issues with it.
>>
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Trying out some metal markers and paint pens. Right arm is done up but left is still vanilla. Still got a lot of work to do so consider this wip
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>>6240513
looks pretty good to me.
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>>6240513
Looks good. I used sharpie metallics on mine.
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So I'm moving to Az in a couple days and I was going through some of my old shit from Okinawa. I won this at a event hosted by FamliyMart. I think you guys would appreciate this.
>>
>>6240387
Still the VF31. BoTW pulled me off of it, and now I need to finish the landing gear a couple bits, and do the decals.
>>
>>6240761
hobbywave no longer ships to canada, i confirmed this via email to them so guess guide needs to be updated just a lil :(
>>
>>6240778
>hobbywave
FUCK ME. MGs just got a shit ton more expensive
>>
>>6240778
I'll update it real quick.
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>>6240740
Wow, just wow
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>>6240387
RX-78-2 Revive. Only my third kit, coming after a couple years away. I spent way too much time comparing my first couple attempts to other people and wondering why I wasn't getting professional grade work right out of the gate and ended up just kinda killing any of the fun of the hobby for myself.

Planning on finishing up his legs and weapons tomorrow night and panel lining/top coating after that.

I tried to do a little more with this one than the last couple fiascos, by shaving and sanding the nubs and the like. Ended up snapping the right side of the V-fin in half getting the flag off like a fucking idiot, and had to shave both sides down. Now all the other Gundams are gonna make fun of him and his tiny fin.
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>>6240888
Fins are easy enough to do with some styrene, some glue, and primer.
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>>6240387
Gotta love the variety this kit offers
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>>6240941
I still think it was the best kit of 2016.
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>>6240387
Graze Kai 1/100 is one of my favorite kits from last year.

Just finished an HG Grimgerde, trying to get some assignments done tonight to start on Shia Quan[T] this weekend.
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>>6240962
Easily the best kit with the graze frame
>>
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Newfag still learning the ropes here. Nobell Gundam is both cute and tough looking, so I really like her. Gennerally went a lot better than Deathscythe with accurate sticker placement and only one notable hamhanding to her open left hand while Deathscythe's left armor falls apart if you look at it funny and multiple breaks to thin parts I had to superglue back. When I wanted to try and do part swap with Nobell and Deathscythe, the way all the joints and wings and stuff were designed were different. I guess different lines despite being both 1/144 scale HG.

Something is bugging me about Nobell though. The extra parts seemed to mostly make sense with a "bald" head and another set of hands, but there is this pink block thing labelled A1 I can't figure out what it is for...
>>
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>>6241030
It's a leftover from the original Nobell. It holds down the end of the beam ribbon so you can manipulate it and get the kind of swirling you want.
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>>6240398
Good choice of chest piece, just as Mead intended
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Would /toy/ rate my work

inb4:
>no panels lining
I don't like the look of panel lines

Tamiya spray can only, except the red stripe on the head and the tiny yellow spots on the back.
Should used Carmel yellow for the yellow to match the plastic and gundam marker, but it was too late to change it.
>>
>>6241106
- Paint job looks a little sloppy. Especially on those uh....I don't know what to call em. The white...things on the side of the chest. And the core fighter. Masking with a good quality tape or fluid might help.

- Did you apply primer before painting the yellow onto your shoulder pads and vulcans? It looks kinda translucent. Light colors generally don't go on well over dark plastic, which is why white/grey primer is your friend.

- This needs a nice flat topcoat, the plastic shine is rather unattractive

Not too bad overall though. I'm nitpicking somewhat since you asked for a rating.
>>
>>6241106
>I don't like the look of panel lines

That's fine, but it just ends up making your kits look like a bare plastic one.

I'm not digging the yellow, it's too vibrant and toylike. Orangey yellow is better.

>>6241111
The white things on the side of the chest are supposed to be tow cable mounts iirc. The Crossbone is covered in them, and you can see bi ones on the shoulder tops.
>>
>>6241124
Yeah, I know what they are, I was just struggling for the words to describe them. Thanks.
>>
>>6241064
Interesting.
The other one I picked up was a swole AF one with all the weapons that reminds me of ice cream. Swapping their legs makes for a UNGH THICKER Nobell which is amusing.
>>
>>6241111
>>6241124

Didn't use any primer as I tried something like that before-
partial paint job with primer and paint. It did not come out too well as the paint does not always cover the grey primed part.

Overall I am going for a more R spirit looks, so I did not use and flat topcoat. In term of the white thing and yellow on the should pads. those bitches to spray as for some reasons even with masking, the edge comes out zagged and the thickness of the tape prevented the thing being white all the way. It makes me wonder how the offical image person did it. Hand painted?

I still got the bandai exclusive X-2 version of the to work on in the future, so I guess I can do better with that.

As for the kit itself, it is pretty good. But the hand for holding the gun in the combined mode is horribly bended sideways and hard to pose to look good.
>>
>>6241131
>offical image person did it
Airbrush. They primed it too, and did a fuckton of masking.
>>
>>6241131
Use masking fluid to avoid that thick tape problem next time.

Also the hand is cocked sideways because otherwise the butt of the gun will just go straight into the forearm and not fit.
>>
>>6240387

FAG Gourai (paint curing), 1/144 Graze (preparing pieces for priming), valvrave kit whenever I don't have anything to do on the other two.
>>
Do you guys know how to order from samueldecal? I got a reply, but it's just standard copy paste text from his Facebook posts, with this section added on:

Payment for preorder:
Please kindly send payment through PayPal to receiver email: order@samueldecal.com
Payment currency should send in USD, not other currency.
Order will reserve and confirmation email will reply once payment received.

Preorder cannot be cancel, please understand. No refund, No cancel.

Postage to be confirm, for reference, for example, 1kg parcel with packing:
Asia, US, CA cost around USD$15-20
EU country, cost around USD$25-30
Just for reference, not equal to final postage!!
Final postage to be confirm after stock arrive and check with packing!
No need to pay postage now!!


Do I just PayPal him the cost of the items now, and then wait for a shipping fee, or wait for the complete price?
>>
>>6240387
Just finished priming a HG Gastima last night, so I'll probably start painting that tonight, and the HG Atlas just arrived yesterday so I might start clipping/sanding the parts over the weekend.
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>>6241310
Another anon here, I wouldn't mind knowing this too as I've just sent him a order request too.
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>>6241310
I've never purchased from him but have been tempted in the past. From what it sounds like he wants to just charge you for the item and then charge you for postage once he's ready to ship. Sounds like he calculates out the shipping fee when he goes to ship the item. Just going off of the verbiage he used.
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>>6241310
I ordered some decals from him a year ago. He sent me an invoice via email that included the price and shipping and I transferred the funds to his paypal. I don't know why that fag doesn't have a a working website anymore or a ebay page.

I wouldn't say it was a bad experience, but he does take awhile to email back, at least for me. It's like its just one dude doing everything, which is fine but not if you take a week to reply.

For my other decals I just ordered from chinks on ebay.

About the only thing Sam is good for is custom decals, which are fucking expensive. 80% of the shit he sells can be bought on ebay for about the same price.

Anyways I wouldn't pay anything until he sends you a complete invoice.
>>
>>6241310
I've bought stuff from him a couple of times, got no problems at all
got that same message for the Woundwort kit, I just sent the payment for it
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>>6241344
No ebay = no transaction fee.

Ever since ebay and paypal split, sellers have had to pay transaction fees to both
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>>6240387
Decals for the Turn X
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>>6241349
You just paid for the kit and are waiting for the price of shipping now? Did you pay as goods? The way he worded it it sound alike he's expecting me to pay as gift.
>>
>>6241363
yes, you pay as goods the preorder price only
once the stuff is released, he will ask you for the shipping payment
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>>6241371
Thanks. Do you know how buying multiple works? I want to get 2, one for me and one for a friend since he didn't get an email.

Also did you mention what you were paying for in the comments section?

Sorry for all the questions, it's just super confusing.
>>
>>6241376
after the payment I sent him another mail stating the transaction ID
as for multiples, maybe you should write him beforehand and then make the payment of both items
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>>6241401
Fuuuu

I wrote I was paying for 2 in the comments section, and sent an email saying the same thing with the transaction ID in it.
>>
>>6241409
that should be enough then, wait for his reply later
>>
Anyone got a recommendation as to what tamiya color can best matches the color of the current bandai soft plastic used for joint's color?
>>
What display case do you guys use?
>>
>>6241310
It'll probably end up being the same price or cheaper from gundammodelcenter.com

Though their packing is usually just a mail sleeve.
>>
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Anon here who painted his Schwalbe frame and it came out fucked up.
What's another good graze kit to try out? I've still got all the armor if I ever want to make a schwalbe or kitbash, so any graze is fine.
>>
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>>6241789

Detolf is standard as fuck but pretty neat. Wouldn't recommend assemblying it alone though.
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>>6241310
I sent him an email on fucking wednesday (and another on tuesday) and still haven't got a reply

he'll eventually send you an Invoice.
>>
>>6241796
Aren't they notoriously flimsy? I feel like a backboard or thicker metal frame on the back would help it a lot but I don't really want to spend the money reinforcing something that's supposed to be kinda bottom of the barrel. I like the aesthetics from the front though.

If tempered glass were cheaper it'd be easy to make a display case out of aluminum extrusions with cantilevered bases, but holy shit is tempered glass fucking expensive.
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>>6241803
He can take up to like 2 weeks dude, he's a busy chinaman
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>>6241805

They feel solid enough to me. It's possible to assemble them wrong so that the space between the metal bars that hold up the glass shelves are greater than it's supposed to be. Don't do that and you'll be fine.
>>
Is it possible to create acrylic washes for panel lining? After working on my last kit I definitely want to look into it but I want to try and leverage the materials I already have instead going out and picking up a bunch of new stuff. Especially since doing an enamel wash would require topcoats and whatnot that I definitely can't do at the moment.

Also speaking of priming and whatnot my Lupus Rex 1/100 came in and I definitely want to paint the claws yellow. Using acrylic paint won't damage bare plastic right? And if I apply enough layers will it look fine or will the black still show through?
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>>6241874
There's a section in the guide on arylic washes, actually.
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Mechanical chain bases make everything look cool.

Gonna pick up four more of the bastards.
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>>6241907
Shame that one set of floor panels can't be used in this configuration though.
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>>6241796
I assembled it on my own just fine, just had to be careful to put it together right

>>6241805
It pretty solid if you bother to actually fasten it to the wall, which I'm guessing a lot of people don't do. It was pretty shaky before I did it, but its held up really well afterwards, there's some construction going on nearby and my house shakes like hell but still nothing's fallen, and I've got some things balancing on thin air
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>>6241926
I live in a rental home so I'd like to keep any mechanical fastening to a minimum.
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>>6241929

I didn't fasten mine and they are fine.
>>
So when Samuel Decal says "Payment currency should send in USD, not other currency" that means he wants to RECEIVE USD, not HKD, correct? Paypal apparently changed stuff around a bit since I last sent a payment like this and it separates out sent/received into two options now.
>>
>>6241980
That's what it sounds like.
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>>6241907
How many chain bases are in that pic?
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>>6241897
Is future necessary for the medium? I saw some people use isopropyl alchoal which I actually have. I've also seen dish soap as well but that's from minis.I'd out the same for gunpla?
>>
>>6241480
If you mean the dark grey pieces, then Tamiya dark grey. It isn't an exact match though, the frame pieces are a little lighter.
>>
>>6242008
4 sets. 2 of the A, 2 of the B. It's the renewal one that came out no too long ago.
>>
Is the only way to darken the tone of a clear color is to add more layers? I'm painting clear blue on chrome, and I'm already at 6 layers and it's still far too light for what I want.
>>
>>6242059
I don't know i talking about the grey/part that bandai has on its Hguc kits now. Those mostly used in elbows and knees
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>>6242096
you could spray a darker clear blue
>>
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It really does look much better with matching pants.
>>
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>>6242193
A lot better. Speaking of Vidar stuff, i matte coated mine today. Does it look alright? Also, how's this pose? I don't see a lot with the handguns on here.
>>
How come there's no Build Burning Gundam MG yet?
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>>6242210

that looks nice, much better than the pure black plastic
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>>6242210
Yup, matte or flat makes that shade of black plastic look much better
>>
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>>6242215
Good question. The HG is a ton of fun, though.

>>6242216
Thanks. I wish I had a better picture setup, though. I don't feel like I'm doing my kits justice. They aren't masterpieces, but they deserve better.
>>
Fuck yeah, my option set 9 pair and mechnical ex hands showed up in the mail today. Time to start painting my rodis
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>>6242218
Word.

I kinda want to do another barbarous next. I've done the 6th form, so i guess the Lupus is the next logical step.
>>
>>6242215
Because the original Build Fighters MGs were built based on already existing kits, thus reducing the amount of work needed to put them out. To make an MG Build Burning would require making it from the ground up,
>>
I want to build a MG RX-78. Is the 2.0 the best one?
>>
>>6242257
It all depends on what you want, really.

2.0 if you want it to look like the anime and stability

3.0 if you want it to look like the 1:1 that was on display til recently, or if you want a more intense build process.

Origin if you want a bit more extra play value in exchange for not having a core fighter.
>>
>>6242263
Noted. I'll probably try either the origins or the 2.0 then. Thanks.
>>
>>6242268
I'd personally recommend the 3.0 just because it looks better than the others but hey, more power to you.

If you ARE getting the Origin, consider the special edition that's coming out soon.
>>
>>6242272
Well, I may look at some reviews of the 3.0 and see if it sways me. I've just never done an RX-78, so i felt I needed at least one in my collection.
>>
>>6242210
You did a nice job with the coating, but for some reason I liked your Vidar more uncoated. I guess this is a kit-by-kit basis kinda thing, cause I usually love matte topcoat.
>>
Some pleb questions.

1. Is there any kit where semi gloss looks decent?
2. Can semi gloss hide scuff marks like matt/flat can?
3.Why file the nub down rather than cutting the nub off when freeing it from the runner?
4. Do you need a respirator for top coating or just painting with an airbrush?
>>
>>6242193
Personally I find that a little boring even if it's clean and inoffensive, you might even call it elegant in the sense of a navy suit.

I think they did a great job with the vanilla color scheme as is. Could probably use a little less yellow like on the skirt and side skirt/thrusters, maybe keep it to accents.
>>
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>>6242215
I don't know, but I a sincerely fucking wish we'd get one. Probably one of my favorite kits despite his annoying arm joints.
>>
>>6242384
>3.Why file the nub down rather than cutting the nub off when freeing it from the runner?
This is kinda hard to explain, but when the part is still attached to the runner and you cut it out, the plastic kinda warps/frays at the cut. So by leaving some of the nub on your initial cut that warping happens on plastic you're cutting off anyways
>>
A lot of places recommend warm gray colic pens for panel lining on white models. How well would cool gray work?
>>
howdy
>>
>>6242416
Try Burning is one of my fav kits I have and getting a MG would be nice.
But would they have cockpits and shit?
>>
>>6242483
The real solution is to make a God Gundam 2.0 and then use the inner frame for a Build/Try Burning
>>
>>6242384
>Is there any kit where semi gloss looks decent?
I guess its up to your skill level and the look you're going for. Semi-gloss is basically going to make it look like plastic.
>Can semi gloss hide scuff marks like matt/flat can?
No
>Why file the nub down rather than cutting the nub off when freeing it from the runner?
You're warping the plastic from the pressure caused by the snip. Resulting in white stress marks.
Get a runner and start bending it too much, and you'll notice it becomes white as well.
>Do you need a respirator for top coating or just painting with an airbrush?
Need and should are different things.
No one at my hobby shop uses one, but we all probably should.
It really comes down to how ventilated is the area, and how toxic are the materials you are using.
At the very least get a surgical mask.

No one is going to tell you not to buy one, because no one is going to tell you smoking is healthy.
But is it going to kill you immediately? Probably not. Is it healthy? Nope. Should you do it everyday? No. Should you hotbox yourself in your parents garage with no mask to detail a 10 dollar toy? I'd say no.

It really comes down to how often do you build, how much do you care about your health.
>>
>>6242482
h-hi
>>
>>6242519
>At the very least get a surgical mask.
That's the worst advice you can give. Surgical masks and dust masks does moot against paint fumes.
>>
>>6242524
I don't think fumes what you are avoiding to inhale, mostly its the particles. For example acyrlic paint doesn't even have fumes.

And if you are using paint that omit fumes that's going to happen airbrushing or hand painting.
>>
>>6242534
Surgical masks don't have filters for particles.
>>
>>6242534
Nah man the worst thing you can do is to generalize things like that.

Paint fumes cause anything from headaches to blindness to permanent brain damage, depending on the solvent used.

Some kid-friendly acrylics have low odor, noshit. But anything that is made for airbrushing or comes in a spraycan uses solvents that can cause the above, even if they are labelled "acrylic paint"

And even if you want to avoid dust inhalation, surgical masks don't do anything, they are designed to keep your spittle and mucus within you, stuff that's visible to your eye. The dust particles generated from sanding, grinding and polishing can be a hundred to thousand times smaller.

Telling someone that a surgical mask provides "basic protection" is like telling a dude to use an imaginary condom for "basic protection".
>>
>>6241907
Which ones are you using, I have 3 Mechanical Chain Base R (A) but I think I can't build the 90 degree wall with that. Plus I have the bases for Sahelanthropus and REX & Ver Black
>>
>>6242457
It'll work fine. Honestly, you'll open up a whole new world when you realize that you can panel line in ANY COLOR YOU WISH.
>>
>>6242482
hihi
>>
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I've almost finished my first model and I've got my second already waiting for me. What would you guys recommend for a third once I get around to that?
>>
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>tfw starting to worry excessively about my experiences sanding plastic and spraying rattlecan topcoats without any protection
>>
Is it worth it to get all of the graze variants?
>>
>>6242560
There are 2 types of walls, I'm not sure which set numbers are which, though.
>>
>>6242623
Well the only ones available right now are the R (A) (that I have) and R (B) that comes with the launch pad

https://hlj.com/product/KBYMB-44

I want to be able to angle walls for a hangar but I don't really need the launcher, am I shit out of luck?
>>
>>6242589
Mega Size Zaku II.
>>
>>6242589
HG Revive RX-78-2 or one of the Origin Guncannons
>>
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>>6242284
I kinda agree. I think it looked cool being a little glossy, but I'd rather matte coat it than gloss coat.

Pre matte coat.
>>
>>6241794
>I don't like stickers on rounded corners anon
>>
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>>6242655
Do what now?
>>
>>6242653
Just ordered the RX-78-2
>>
>>6242281
The Origins is really a fantastic kit. For me personally it has just the right balance of the anime look with a realistic look. The 2.0 and the 3.0 lean too far in either direction for my taste. The Origins, imo, is the perfect balance. But at that point it just comes down to preference. They're all RX-78's so they'll all be great kits.
>>
>>6242680
Yeah, I'm gonna have to research some more. I need at least one RX-78 and one zaku
>>
>>6242680
The more I look at it, the more I like the 3.0. The more "realistic" gundams are always cool to me.
>>
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>>6240155
Spending a fortune on these collections. I have no regrets.
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>>6242731
Anyone into macross plamos? Thinking about picking up hasegawa models, but they require painting and im a total noob at plamos. Just got into it last month
>>
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>>6242731
Too lazy at this point. And just ordered vf 25-g and C. Getting too lazy to build anymore
>>
>>6242738
>>6242736
>>6242731
>My Dick-culture!
>>
>>6242731
>Spending a fortune on these collections
DX Chogokin or whatever they're called of the macross stuff are like 20-30 000 yen a pop I believe so I think you saved a lot of money :)
Can't wait to build mine
>>
>>6242763
I don't have the courage to buy a chogokin. It's just too much. Also i think the fun with any figures mainly comes from building it.

I just wonder when the vf31e (chuck's yellow) would be released if at all.

With each kit being around $55usd and super parts $15 i think I'm just under $500 at this point, but that's like 7 vf's and 5 walkure figures and accessories that I'm having tons of fun with.
>>
There's an airbrush / compressor combo nearby on Craigslist that the user said he used to use for Gunpla.

$70 for the thing

I'm new to the hobby and want to try airbrushing, it seems like a good deal even if it's not a great kit because I'll be shit starting out anyways?
>>
This is a weird question, but I need a large-ish (ideally a little bigger than a golf ball) RX-78 head for a project and I don't wanna spend a lot on it. So would you guys happen to know which specific SD RX-78 has the biggest head? I figure that's probably my cheapest option.
>>
My local store started stocking up on Vallejo acrylics...but none of their thinner.

How does it thin with water? I never had good luck thinning Tamiya acrylics with water.
>>
>>6242560
>>6242626
The mechanical chain base R set B will let you form angled walls with set A. In my picture, the left side is two set As and the right side is two set Bs.
>>
>>6242937
Oh and no, set A by itself can't form an angled wall. You'll need set B for that.
>>
>>6242931
That's because Tamiya is not a water based acrylic. It's a weird hybrid acrylic that needs to be thinned with alcohol or lacquer.

Vallejo is a water based acrylic. It thins fine with water and most water based thinners for acrylics.
>>
>>6242884
Depends on the setup.
>>
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>>6242957

I've contacted the guy and am hoping to get more information about it.

Here's an image of it. No branding that I could see to identify it.
>>
>>6242963
I use that compressor but have a different airbrush and have a tank for it. Compressor works fine, but I imagine without a tank, you'll be hearing it hum the whole time while painting.
>>
>>6242993

I can afford to buy a tank if it gets on my nerves. Since I'm an amateur I just wanted to save money and not dive into an investment that I can admittedly afford but might regret if I suck
>>
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Man, what do you guys do when you start having regrets in the middle of a paint job? The clear blue was just not getting darker no matter the number of coats or mixing, the gloss removed all the shading, and because my idea was already very unconventional, the two drastic tones of blue looks like it'll end up horrible. I'll probably just skip weathering and just apply decals and panel line it and chalk it up as a learning experience.
>>
>>6242948
Ok, that's good to know.
And I double checked, they're the Vallejo Game Color series. Not the Model line.

Are these still worth checking out for Gunpla?
>>
>>6242994
I should've replied that I wasn't the guy who said "depends on the setup", but how badly do you want to airbrush? Because as someone who really wanted to airbrush and be cheap when I started, the more I realized I spent more money replacing some parts or not buying some stuff initially. So in your case, I'd at least look at a pretty decent airbrush, like a Badger Renegade or the Iwata one everyone gets (which I wish I did because it looks to be easier to clean) instead of what I believe is the generic one that comes with that setup.
>>
>>6243002

I'm really enjoying the hobby so far, but I'm just snapbuilding HG kits right now. I used to do 40k and tried to handpaint those with spraycans and it was awful - I was admittedly really inexperienced, but still - and so I don't want to fuck these up not knowing what I'm doing with brushes.

Airbrushing seems to be a convenient way to get a solid coat and really get into painting kits instead of just a few things like painting details. I'm really enjoying the hobby so far but I feel the more I enjoy it and just snapbuild or panel line or topcoat the more I'm going to look back on my old kits and regret I didn't start painting sooner.

I've ordered some MGs after feeling pretty confident with nub removal and construction, so I want to transition into doing more with the hobby than just building.
>>
>>6243002

>Iwata one everyone gets (which I wish I did because it looks to be easier to clean)

The Neo? Having owned that brush I wouldn't recommend it. It's very little different in quality to your cheap Chinese eBay knock-offs but with considerably more expensive parts. It's also a pain in the arse to clean and the nozzle is made of fucking dust and will crack or shear as soon as looking at it.

I would always recommend an H&S Ultra considering it's only a little bit more expensive but of considerably higher quality. Also, made in Germany as opposed to China.
>>
>>6242999
Same shit, just different color mixes. If you can use it on plastic minis then you can use it on all models.
>>
>>6242998
I put it down for a day or two to think on it and if I'f I'm dissatisfied to the point I don't want to finish it as is I strip and repaint.
>>
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Hey guys, anon here who's been on a break from building for awhile, and I've finally decided to return. I've been building for a few years, and in that time I've only used pairs of Xuron 410s as my nippers. I really dislike the result the give because it makes clean-up more tedious than it should be. Anyway, to the point, are there any nippers you guys would recommend to someone who doesn't mind clean-up, and will paint their kits? Also, are MemeHands worth tracking down?
>>
>>6243021
Memehands are the best if you find a good deal. Check Amazon, got mine on there for around 50 I think. Other than that, gundam planet and tamiya make really decent ones.
>>
>>6243021
>inb4 nice blog
>>
>>6243021
I have the Tamiya cutters and they work really wonders, way better than when I had what you had. I'd imagine the Gundam Planet ones are just as good too.
>>
Hey guys, not sure if this is the right place for this. I'm looking at getting an evangelion model, and I am not sure which manufacturer to buy from, as I have never done this kind of thing. The older Bandai models are cheaper, and the smaller miniatures that come with are a nice touch, but I heard they aren't very articulate. The newer bandai evangelions seem to have more accessories, and look like they might be more detailed, but I have also heard bad things about the quality. There are also the Kotobukiya Evangelions, which are more expensive, but look high quality, though I am worried about messing them up.
>>
>>6243021

I magaed to drop a pair of memehands on a stone floor and it still does a great job while half broken.

What a waste of money though, never building in my kitchen again.
>>
>>6243032
Got my memehands for 35 on amazon. Whether theyre the best or not, theyre far better than the ones I had before
>>
>>6243032
>>6243081
>>6243095
It seems the general consensus is for the glorious Nippon steel folded over a thousand times. Hopefully these make me a master modeler. Thanks for the input guys.
>>
>>6243198

Currently $46 with Prime. Looks like that's a decent price, but what do I know. Picked some up for myself.
>>
>>6243198
The big advantage to godhands is that they're single bladed and the blade is very thin which minimizes warping, not so much that they're any sharper
>>
Does Tamiya flat top coat really eat decals?

Should I coat with 1 layer of mr hobby semi gloss or gloss for protection then spray the flat ontop if it's true?
>>
>>6243240

never happened anything bad to my decals and I've been using tamiya for years
>>
>>6243258
Guess they just want to troll by printing that ontop of the can then. Is there any truth to lacquer based coats fucking up panel lines too?
>>
>>6243260

I've had lines done by standard gundam markers go bad, but I don't use them anymore. Can't remember if that was with testors dullcote or tamiya flat though.
>>
>>6243260
The standard gundam markers can smudge and generally go belly up when used with tamiya flat in my experience.
>>
>>6243268
Would that apply to the copic multiliners too? The pen itself claims to be a pigment ink that's "water and copic proof"

If it does would the mr hobby gloss/semi gloss protect the lines?
>>
>>6243273
Personally I don't have a clue mate. It might be best just to get a spare runner and try a bit on there to see what happens.
>>
>>6243274
Still need to get a respirator so I'm not going to get around to it any time soon anyway.
>>
>>6243273

I use copic markers and I have no issues at all with top coating using tamiya.
>>
>>6242536
Theres tons of cheap surgical masks that are n95 rated.
>>
>>6243353
http://www.bsnmedical.com.au/products/wound-care-vascular/category-product-search/masks/fluid-resistant/proshieldr-n-95.html

This one is $4.70 over here. Look good?
>>
http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=328471

Thinking of buying this motherfucker. Completely newfag to this line of toys. Is it worth it? Hard to assemble?
>>
Where to buy metallic simulated rivets?
>>
>>6243066
never built a model before? buy a cheap HG gundam model to practice with first. You can easily find them for just $10-$15 on amazon, good fodder for first times.
>>
>>6243004
I felt a lot of the same things when I first got serious too. Definitely think of investing in quality supplies then. I have so many kits I wished I did after learning to paint and it just becomes a pain taking it apart and stripping anything you worked on it. I hope you post your results as you get better.

>>6243009
Oh shoot, really? I see that name everywhere, I figured it must be good. I went the Badger route and the Krome has served me well enough but I wish it had the nozzle of an Iwata so I can do that bubbling cleaning technique.

>>6243014
Man, I wish I had the discipline to do that, but I just keep going instead. Not proud of how this came out, but I'll post proper pictures later.
>>
>PG Unicorn at my local hobbytown is $210 dollars, almost the exact same price it would cost me to get it from hlj after shipping.

What is this bizzarro world?
>>
>>6243550
WTF it's also reasonable on Amazon. Also I recall my HobbyTown having it for..$250ish? I wouldn't call that a godawful price honestly.
>>
>>6243560
Plus the place offers 10% off if you join their facebook page, which brings it down to $189 before tax.
>>
>>6243009
>>6243549
The Neo isn't even a real Iwata. It's subcontracted out to some company in China. I've had one and wouldn't recommend it. Part of the lever broke after a year during a regular break down for cleaning because it was poorly welded together.
>>
>>6243009
>>6243572
>>6243549
Ah, my bad. It wasn't the Neo I was thinking of. It was the HP-CS that I see get recommended everywhere.
>>
>>6242612

Sanding plastic shouldn't worry you unless you are working with resin a lot. Just buy a respirator for painting. Its doubtful you are causing yourself much damage just topcoating but piece of mind may be worth it to you. I always wear a respirator for any painting but I paint damn near everything in my shop in the garage so I am exposed to it a lot.
>>
>>6243599
The HP-CS is great but I very rarely use it compared to my HP-CR. I get better results priming and laying down base coats and clear coats with the HP-CR. It might take getting used to but for 1/100 scale I find the .5mm tip on the HP-CR to work very well for preshading and detail work. My HP-CR is my workhorse while the HP-CS has been collecting dust for like a year.
>>
Just got the shipping notice from proxyrabbitjapan for my P-Bandai shit, including 4 WD GM Sniper IIs. Hyped
>>
>>6243607
>HP-CR
>very well for preshading
sure
>detail work
nah

If I am willing to do an extra round of touching up, I can get away without the masking step with my HP-CP
>>
>>6242612

Get a respirator for the spray cans at least. I used to spray a few pieces while holding my breath and then walk away. A lot more relaxing to actually have protection.
>>
MG When?
>>
>>6243009
Should I bother with the two in one?
How easy is it to clean the paint chamber within the brush?
>>
>check april release schedule
>think it's pretty lacking in kits
>see that there's a fucking 1/2 kit of the force awakens football droid at the end of the month

So that's where all the plastic went huh...
>>
Just placed an order. I've got an idea for a present for my girlfriend. She's a big Cubs fan, and she has a Yellow lab.
The Ashtray was to meet the $25 for free shipping.
>>
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Starting to get close to finishing my Gourai in an edgy colour scheme. The faceplate is from a Stylet kit though...
>>
>>6242963
>>6242957
>>6242884
the airbrush compressor can be bought off amazon or direct from TCP global site brand new with warranty for 70 bucks. they honor their return policy and will replace for free too.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/Airbrushing-Supplies/Master-Compressors/

there's also a new seller on amazon that sells the compressor for $60 named pointzero. for 15 bucks more, you can get 3 airbrushes https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Guns/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=sr_1_3?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1489938054&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=airbrush+compressor&psc=1 which is probably the airbrushes he'll include.

it works fine btw. if you're worried about uneven sprays all airbrushes can spray bad depending on the setting. the main thing is to grab tamiya acrylic retarder or mr leveling thinner for 5-15 bucks. 15 bucks should last you 10+ MG kits.

bottom line, you're better off buying direct for the warranty, unless you can't spare 10-20 bucks extra.
>>
I'm looking for some easy kits to practice painting on, something without a lot of ridges or sharp angles. Preferably in the sub $30 range.

Any suggestions?
>>
>>6243960
Try an SD. They're usually pretty squat and have large flat surfaces.
>>
>>6243948
Looks pretty good to me.
>>
Where is the best place to buy Converge figures? Usually my B&N carries them with the other model kits, but they haven't restocked since Christmas. Amazon only has a few available and eBay even less so.

Also any favorites? How is Ric Dom? Anyone have the newest one with Byarlant?
>>
>>6243989
You're most likely SoL if looking for older waves without paying after market prices. Bandai doesn't remake everything in converge like they do with gunpla.
>>
>>6243995
Oh yeah no worries I got the older ones I wanted. I am wanting the newer waves now.
Also tempted to get Nightingale and Neo Zeong, but not sure I have enough room (Neo Zeong especially). Nightingale could maybe fit.
>>
>>6243881

>Should I bother with the two in one?

If you feel you'll get any use out of it. It can't really hurt though and is cheaper than buying a needle/nozzle set separately. I tend to stick to a .2mm needle but that's mostly because I'm lazy.

>How easy is it to clean the paint chamber within the brush?

Not 100% sure as I have an Infinity CRPlus; but I believe they are all built on the same basic chassis.

That being the case I find it much easier than with my Neo/s and Chinese eBay jobbies. The paint cup runs directly don to the nozzle so there's no little kinks and corners for paint to get stuck in. The wiper seals are also very good and I've yet to get paint going back into the body of the brush like I did with my other brushes.
>>
>>6243960
Or some no grades. They're usually a similar price to petit guys and option packs and because they're kind of garbage and have no articulation there's no point to them except painting practice.

Or possibly some really old kits?
>>
>>6244085
>>6243965
>>6243960

The problem with old/NG/SD kits is that a lot of them are a complete clusterfuck of seam lines and often have a complete inability to be broken down into sub-assemblies.

That makes painting a bit of a chore as you're going to need to put in a lot of work into getting the surface prep right before you can start throwing down paint. Also, your masking game will need to be on point.

If you're up for the challenge then fair play, but you might just want to look at picking up something like a TT Hongli Zaku II 2.0 off of GMC. They're only about $25 or something and (apart from the inner frame) are pretty much blank canvasses when it comes to the armour.
>>
After sending the preorder payment to Samual decal for the woundwort a couple of days ago should I have expected any sort of confirmation email?
>>
>>6244214
He can be late, just PM in on facebook or mail him again, he seemed pretty behind when he returned from his japan trip a while ago
>>
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Not proud of this, but I'd hate to just not share out of any pride. MG Kampfer complete. There was a lot of issues I had, and I don't think anyone wants to hear that, but the biggest issue was that I couldn't get the blues to match how I wanted. The candy coating blue came out much lighter than I wanted, regardless of paint mix/layers, and the gloss blue came out much darker than I wanted, getting even darker and removing the shading when I added the gloss to it.
>>
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>>6244303
>>
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>>6244305
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>>6244307
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>>6244312
And last one. I hope they make a ver. 2.0 of the Alex and Kampfer so I can do them better justice.
>>
>>6244307
You did good mang
>>
>>6244321
Thanks, dude. I'm probably being too hard on myself realistically, but just feeling frustrated because I know I can do better.
>>
I'm looking for a cheapish airbrush + compressor in the UK. I have never used an airbrush before so don't really know what to look for. My budget is up to £70. Any recommendations?
>>
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>>6244312
this looks sweet anon
>>
I'm working on my Jesta MG and it's got the articulated fingers and such that come straight off the runner. Is this thing going to be a nightmare to denub, or do you guys have a trick for getting it done cleanly?
>>
>>6244407
I just shave it down with my xacto knife
>>
>>6244303
>>6244305
>>6244307
>>6244312
>>6244315

bro what the FUCK are you complaining about? Your shiny metal Kampfer is sexy as all shit
>>
>>6244360
For that price you might be able to buy just an airbrush, in US cash an airbrush/compressor setup runs around $150 or more.
>>
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I found this WIP picture online, can anyone explain something to me who knows more about plaplate? How does the builder bend the plates to the exact angle of the parts under them, like with the box-like shape of the shoulder or the whole back leg? Tutorials always show some heat usage like a heat gun or candle, does it take heating it, waiting until it's all soft, and then pressing it onto the part perfectly or is there some secret Japan-only plastic magic? I tried dunking flat sheet bits and cut runner pieces in boiling water then bending them onto a part already, mixed success.
>>
Does anyone have any experience with the TT Hongli 1/100 Tieren Ground types? I get all the general warnings about bootlegs, just wondering about that specific kit.
>>
>>6244534
After you have dunked them into boiling water and bent them, try dunking the piece quicky into ice water in order to maintain the shape
>>
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>>6244536
Alright then, I'll factor in cooling next time. What about for those pieces that are small though? The piece I intend to do is bending about a thumb length (top to bottom) worth of sheet and trying to get a specific curved angle. Across the Mock torso I want to add a layer on top of it to look like a cockpit cover, I was here a while ago asking something similar bit with putty, and then thought sheets might be better.
>>
>>6244550
Doesn't sound too small to do this to. You can always cut the sheet to be too large, hold in in the boiling water for a bit to soften it up (with tweezers or something), bend it, dunk it in the cold water, then trim it to size afterwards
>>
>>6244554
Thanks, I'll do more trial and error. It annoys me to waste so much plastic but that's the nature of this stuff. Really wish I could ask that builder what he did on the Marasai, but I'm sure Google translate wouldn't get the message across correctly.
>>
>>6244535
Why don't you just buy the real thing? It was just reissued so it's very easy to obtain, and it's a pretty cheap kit to begin with.
>>
>>6244596

Army building and cheap custom fodder.
>>
Would any of you fine upstanding gentlemen be interested in a 24 hour Gunpla challenge? Pop a Gunpla box and have to complete the build within 24 hours? Including any painting and detail work you want to do.

Wouldn't have a set date to do it just a challenge and documenting it as you go.
>>
>>6244628
>Being stupid and not caring about proper cure times for worthwhile brand of paint
I'm not dumb enough to waste cash and then intentionally skew the odds of the kit coming out well done.
>>
>>6244625
Prime92 reviewed the TT Hongli. Apparently loose joints and some loss of detail in the sculpt. If it's worthwhile to you to fix up the looseness and not look quite as good as the real thing, go for it.
>>
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Made some progress on the Jesta today. This kit is A okay
>>
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Halfway done with the inner frame of Barbatos.
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>>6244903
It's very shoddy, but it looks sexy from a distance.
>>
>>6244906
How are you painting? It almost looks too thin, like it would need another layer to get proper colour on the light grey parts

The red looks OK though? I'm a little confused. Are you spraying close or something?
>>
>>6244964
The light gray is supposed to be metallic silver and a thin layer of light gun metal over top of it. I wanted it to look like worn out metal but I guess I failed on that.
>>
>>6244303
On one hand I know what you mean, it's like getting so closer to that perfect outcome and just not getting it. But I also have to agree with this somewhat >>6244455
>>
>Brought TS 80 and TS 4 for toughness/scratch testing
>Almost nothing with fingernail besides the part when you pressed hard and making it slightly more waxing texture.
>instant scratches down to the base plastic using another piece of plastic's pointy edge

Seriously, what are the commercial paint made of?
The only thing i see to stand some real serious punishment are all mass produced toys.
>>
Is there some reason I can't find any mention of people buying from amazon.co.jp? it seems much cheaper than hlj/banzaihobby(PG strike freedom was 70 euro less) and works just the same now. No japanese address/bank account needed.
>>
>>6245068
Mostly because the whole Amazon Global thing is a recent development. I didn't know about it until I saw someone make a thread about it, and even then I still haven't gotten around to trying it because I fear for my bank account. It probably works just as well as Amiami/HLJ/etc., although not EVERY kit is Amazon Global eligibl.
>>
>>6245074
I see. well I bought my first kit off them just now, Gunpla Starter Set 2: Gundam Ver G30th, 22 euro total with shipping and 4-6 day arrival. worked just fine with a visa prepaid card.
>>
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My top edge Gourai is done. First thing I did after taking my photos was get her a base, even though I tightened the joint in her belly/abdomen it was really tricky to pose her without her upper body falling backwards and looking awkward.

Next time, I'll add less shit to the back and shoulders.
>>
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>>6245263
>>
I was just thinking about the 72 gundam frames, the name is actualy for the production number and ahab frecueci, so the armor actualy have noting to do with the gundam name, so what if they have like 20 frames using the same armor.
>>
>>6240740
that's awesome!
>>
>>6245263
>>6245264

You didn't do a very good job of breaking up those colors, bro. None of her details really pop, you know? She just looks like a big blob of red.
>>
>>6245432

Guess I could have made the collar or the shoulders black. Or inverted the colours on the knees. Maybe both. I didn't want to add another colour though.
>>
Quick question for the plamoids; I have a Stargazer that I'm customizing and adding a large weapon to (a Frame Arms Mega Slash Edge from the Weapon Assortment 1). Unfortunately it's just too damn heavy for the Stargazer to lift without bracing it's elbow on its hip armor, and I'm not sure adding another handle for the other hand is going to make any difference. Does anyone have any suggestions?
>>
>>6243936
Nice ideas, more people could use Cubs Bearguys for sure
>>
>>6245485

I can think of twenty things you could have done to make it look a hundred times better. But hey, you're the one that has to look at it every day, not me.
>>
>>6245546
I'm not that anon, but I want to hear these before I go ruining kits like a madman.
>>
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>>6245546
am I supposed to take your word for it my dude? lol
>>
>>6245546

Do tell me what those things are, and which ones I can do without an airbrush. I should have fixed the seam lines on the arms, that's one thing I can think of straight away. Didn't expect them to be quite that bad.

As for colour scheme I think I should have made the collar black, the other changes I suggested looked odd when I tried it on the lineart.
>>
>>6245574
I would
>>
>>6245546
Talk is cheap. Show us.
>>
>>6245546
Seriously, share. I'm just getting into the painting side of this hobby and would love any and all tips I can get.
>>
>>6243949

Thanks, I appreciate it. It's definitely something I'll be looking more into.
>>
>>6245584

Painting the hair the same color as the rest of the kit was a mistake. You could have at least used a different shade of red.

The angular outside edge parts and/or the flap-plates on the shoulders should have been a different color. The molded hinges connecting those plates also could have done well with some color. Steel, maybe. Lots of the smaller details should also have been painted -hinges and bolts and eyelets all over her body could have done with, say, gold or steel to make them look a lot better. Her tank treads should be a different color than the rest of the heel assembly -a deeper metal color or even flat rubber would make them look like... well, like tank treads instead of just slabs of metal hanging off the back of her legs.

A brighter color should have been used to distinguish the sensors/lights on her waist and left shoulder. Gold, maybe wasabi or a light blue? You probably didn't need to paint the radome at all, but picking one of the circles to paint red and the other black would have seriously helped to break up the colors, and there's some small areas in there that could have been done in another color; gray or some kind of metal. The ribbed assembly on the bottoms of the gun barrels probably should have been black while keeping the barrels and the piping metallic -this would have made it look much smoother and more pleasant. The missile pod should have been either all black or all red, with the doors and the octagonal plate to either side and the three small square peg areas being the other color (either way, those doors definitely should not be metal). I can't see it from your pics, but I'm assuming you just painted the vent/booster array in the back of the pod straight black and that won't ever look as good as painting metal details back there. Also, the missiles themselves should be a different, non-metal color. Yellow or light red for HE/incendiary ordinance.

But that's just off the top of my head.
>>
>>6245794
This is nice and well thought out without coming off as sounding like an ass. You're giving suggestions and it all makes sense. Please stick around, we need more people like you.
>>
Anyone here have experience making their own decals?
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Combination store gift card, and turns out it might just be a bit cheaper than my usual hobby shop and even Mandarake and similar for once(even with the current Yen to CAD, now USD to CAD exchange).
Got a MG GM Sniper II incoming through diamond to a comic shop. Yay hahaha.

Anyways was just wondering, any Anons that have the kit and are around; could you comment or show if there's been any stressing or splits in the spots circled for the Sniper II's shoulder joints? Spot 2 I'm not too worried about, but spot 1 I can see splitting fast though. If I'm just being paranoid about this, great; but if this is on enough of them. At least I won't be surprised by it.

Thanks for any help!
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>>6244906
I'm literal garbage at painting, but it looks really nice to me, m8. Good color choice for the frame accents, too.
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>>6245584
Put some pastels on the skin parts and hair
Then go paint some details some other color than red
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Anyone here have any experience working with custom decals? I'm looking to make some somehow and need to figure up where to start.
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>>6245869

not decals as in stickers or waterslides but i hope this helps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_J0JSiFH9I
>>
Borrowed friend's cheap airbrush because why not, nothing to lose. Played with some primed runners and spoons and taking the brush apart and together.

The Guide suggests the Badger Co 105 but it also mentions it's not up to date. I like the price of it right now, but I'll ask away here for other suggestions.
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>>6245925
I quite like my Patriot 105. I had to replace the needle once, and I've bought some tips, but other than that it's been totally fine.
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Working on the jesta finally. I'm happy with it so far as I think I finally nailed the way I want the grey to look on my kits from now on. Offset color is buff and its washed with starship filth. I think I might just be a decent modeler some day.
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>>6245812
I have not, but I'ill need them for a kit soon. This tutorial looks helpful.
>http://otakuonabudget.blogspot.com/2014/05/custom-waterslide-decals.html
>>
>Daizyujin and Kyurenoh minipla arrive
oh fuck which one do I build first?
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>>6246166
Hopefully it works out better than the Zyuogher kits. Fucking hated the Tousaioh
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>>6245925
>>6245975
As GG says the Patriot 105 is priced well and works, have one myself and no problems have arisen. It can even have the needle setup swapped out to be a thinner spray for details.
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>>6245794

>You could have at least used a different shade of red

Good point, my fault for only having one red at home. Is it easy to get a decent result getting another shade of red by for example having a drop of black or white in the red paint and mixing it? I'm sort of afraid that I would be unable to get exactly the same shade for each layer of paint and make it look terrible.

Using a darker metal for the tracks would have been easy and probably had looked better, you're right about that.

As for a lot of your other points, they are also good but I am not too confident in hand painting small details at the moment or in using masking in combination with handbrushing. I'm going to make sure to paint a bunch of details on my next projects and get practice for it.

I was a bit disappointed by the big gun when I realized the whole barrel was one piece, I had intended to have the colour separation you suggested but didn't dare handbrush it.

As for the colours on the missiles themselves, isn't that just down to personal preference? Maybe one option is more realistic but looking at painted projects with missiles I've seen both metal and red etc being used, seems to be a matter of what you personally think looks cooler to me.
>>
>Got F91
>Oh well i bet it won't look that bad in hand
>Look as bad as in the promo image

What were they thinking when they during the design stage for this?
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>>6246358
Gotta print cash.
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>bluray baselard has a smiling face

aaaaaaaaa
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>>6246355
he is giving you tips on how to make the model less boring, not style or preference advice. Right now your model looks technically good, with smooth paint and good execution, but it lacks creative style and and sort of character.
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>>6246358
I'm nit seeing the problem.

What's wrong with the hg F91?
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>>6246417

Most of the advice is solid and not a matter of preference. More detail = good should be quite obvious to anyone.

Part of it I feel is subjective. Why is the colour choice on the missiles "wrong"? Without a motivation I can only see it as a matter of preference, my taste against his.

He had a great motivation for why the tank tracks should have been a different colour, for example. Then it's easier for me to see it as constructive criticism and agree with it.
>>
>>6246432
Warheads on missiles just tend to look better if they're not the same color as the rest of the kit.
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>>6246435

You mean as in not present at all? I can buy that. Could have gone for orange then.
But the guy also suggested red, which I chose not to use for the same reason you just stated.
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>>6246437
>light red
ftfy
>>
>>6246437
>>6246432
Silver is ok-ish but a little weird. I imagine that missiles are painted for protection, camouflage and color coding. Some of them do have seeking heads of sorts, but I've never seen bare metal on missiles.

Of course, its all fiction here, and you're free to do as you please, but the combination of colors still looks little off. Its like mixing up your secondary and trim colors by accident. Would have been fine if the doors were black.

Anyway, if you're willing to work on it more, paint some nonsensical strips of black across the shroud of the cannons, and paint the armor plates of the body grey. If painting is not your jam, buy a box of cheapo pastels and do some "weathering" to help you break up the monotony, especially on the skin. Decals will also help a lot.

http://gunpla0079.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-544.html
>>
>>6246355
Getting the exact same shade of paint when mixing paints every time is definitely a skill that requires practice to get really good at. However you can make it a bit easier on yourself when you start out by using very precise drops in small amounts. Black or White is also easier to get a good handle on at first versus mixing let's say blue and yellow for just the right shade of green. Even if you can't get the exact right shade for later coats with a darkened or lightened color it really doesn't matter too much imo unless you have tons of parts you are trying to match that exact same shade. Since you are just trying to get the hair a different shade, then getting a slightly different shade for a later coat is fine.

>>6246432
>>6246437
I can see what he means by the missiles. You use metallic color for more mechanical parts of the kit. By being metallic it does not give the impression that these missiles are something completely seperate from the rest of the m,odel and meant to be fired out. They seem more like gear caps when their color matches the opening doors that cover them, get what I mean?

Also I almost never see a shiny metallic missile, makes it too easy to spot a shiny object hurtling through the sky.

Most model kits tend to have them painted red to signify very easily 'this is an explosive, red means BOOM' but I would probably avoid red for them in this case. A light grey or even a white is used for missiles both in real life and in media that a lot of these plamo kits are based on. It would probably work best for you in this case.
>>
>>6246463
>You use metallic color for more mechanical parts of the kit
Meant to say 'you used' normally I would let a tiny typo like that slide, but this gives the impression I meant 'in general people use' I specifically meant for this particular model based on how you used that color on other areas.
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>>6246437
I think fiery orange is a good color
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>>6246491
If not a dark reddish brown also fits well
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>>6246494
blends in too much with the rest of the red still, espceially the naturally shaded areas of the kit.
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>>6246518
Well if it were me I'll have put the cannons on either side of her hips, it'll probably look better that way
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>ape arms booster included
cool
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>>6246554
I hope they release an Option Parts set with the Half-Cowl leg parts but knowing them it'll probably be a P-Bandai release.
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also, where did he stole those new parts from?
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This new Astaroth better not be P Bandai... Can any moonrunes reader clarify? I already have an astaroth but definitely wouldnt mind this new set up.
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>>6246566
Its a kimaris trooper kneecap
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>>6246566
Katakana says it's the Gundam Astaroth Rinashimento assuming I haven't botched the reading. Can anyone make sense of the name?
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>>6246580
It might actually be Italian for renaissance (rinascimento). Which would make some amount of sense.
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>>6246566
Is that Garm Rodi's kneecap?
Also, looks like it's gonna have a new pilebunker weapon or something.
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>>6246580
>price not yet determined
>release summer 2017
>product details to be published on hobby sites at any time
>wait for follow up reports goys
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>>6246463

I can see your point, but what if I had used a darker metal for the rest of the mechanical parts and a bright metallic colour like silver for the missiles? Do you think the impression would stay the same?

I'll keep the tips about paint mixing in mind.

>>6246457

Oh yeah, a different red. Still, I think it would still fall within what GG said.

>>6246460

Yeah I just in general like metallic colours on missiles, I did it on my Heavyarms MG and liked it so it kinda stuck with me. Probably a good point about the doors.

Thanks for that link, I actually have one of those weather sets.

I'm not sure if I want to go back and add stuff to her because when I gave her the base one of the legs decided to pop off (with the ball polycap still on the hip peg) and after that it was super loose.

Can't help but be afraid of her falling apart as soon as I look at her now...
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>>6246554
that thing looks like an Armada ere transformer
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So what's the best way to remove stickers from a gunpla? I want to paint some of my older kits from back when I used all the stickers.
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>>6245836
You're too kind, anon.
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>>6246929
How old are we talking?
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Got these super minipla in from japan. Not quite High Grade quality, but still nice.
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>>6246929

Soak the pieces in Castrol Super Clean overnight. The stickers fall right off.
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>>6246929
Peel them off and soak in alcohol. Remember this will probably ruin any paint or panel lines it touches.
>>
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Dino tanker
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>>6246554

Optimus Primal, is that you?
>>
>>6247017
>>6247062
No stickers? Gonna paint em?
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>>6247062
Does it actually morph?
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>>6247088
It DOES transform, with little parts forming.
>>6247080
It has a sticker set with each zord. But i plan on painting it.
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Pretty good posability. Not as good as the Chogokin, but easily the best of any transforming megazord.
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>>6247017
>>6247062
>>6247101
>>6247102
Hey those are pretty good.
Got any HGs lying around for scale? A Tryon 3 maybe?
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>>6247322
Lemme ask the purple robot... heres the tryon robots.
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>>6247334
BEEP BOOP
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>>6247101
>>6247102
>>6247062
>>6247017
looks bretty gud even with out stickers
I'm loving the Super Minipla line
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Making some progress on the Jesta MG. It's a pretty fun kit to build so far.
>>
New thread: >>6247507
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>>6240387
1/144 acguy. need zgok next.
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>>6240398
Finished mine yesterday
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Between the MG rx-78-2 3.0 and the origin version, which one should I get?
>>
>>6252736
3.0 is roughly based on the Diver City life size Gundam, and has a lot of surface detail to look "realistic." Origin has slightly wonky proportions IMO, but it has the most modern engineering and is quite impressive from that standpoint.

Either is a good choice, choose based on which looks better to you basically. Origin does pose a little better, but 3.0 has more sculpted detail.
>>
>>6241796
Anyone know what kind of lights are in here, or any that someone would recommend putting in a DETOLF?

I got mine today (still assembling) and I'm looking for some lights.
>>
>>6253072
Those appear to be the Dioder LED strips from Ikea, which are a pretty decent choice. They also have these hockey puck-style ones that cast a single beam of light, those are good too.




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