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Scale Model General Anonymous 12/27/17(Wed)21:21:54 No.6691354▶
Scale Model General
This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs/

Previous thread >>6658503
>>
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>>6692035
I built a Tasca a while back. Went together nicely (can't really blame my attempts at dust on the kit), though one headlamp guard was short shot IIRC. Vinyl tracks.
>>
>>6692095
Until Tamiya released their new tool Shermans, Tasca was the best game in town and still is for many variants. However, they are older kits and not that easy to build. They are now under the name Asuka, but it would be best to find a Tasca one if you can as the molds are showing their age.
They include PE guards for the lights.
>>
It's about time we had a decent post as the OP
Oh, wait
>>
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Done. The vague hints of panel lines didn't really take to the wash, but something's left here and there at least.
>>
>>6692219
Preshading gone wrong
>>
>>6692223
I didn't pre-shade, so it was doomed form the start I guess.
>>
>>6692224
Really bad color modulation then
>>
>>6692230
Yeah, ended up a bit excessive. Still haven't got the feeling for that bit it seems.
>>
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>>6692241
>color modulation
>on planes
It's post shading or something
>>
>>6692246
Yeah, some lighter colour sprayed onto the middle of the main panels.
>>
>>6692224
Wasn’t this supposed to be a foreign aircraft in use by the Swedes? You COULD make the argument that it just didn’t get a good coating of paint and was simply rushed out the door with only the markings put on it with any real effort. It’s not to far from reality considering pics of foreign equipment being pressed into service. You could even do a little chipping with the “original”color showing through.mostly just bringing this up because I want to do a german captured t-34 with the same basic ideas I listed
>>
>>6692251
No, it's one we managed to make ourselves, Saab's very first own design even (and along with the Saab 18 being where all of our aluminium went, because the guys trying to make the J22 fighter didn't have enough of a challenge as it was). That said, it probably did end up sitting outdoors quite a lot, so we can perhaps explain a decent amount t of bleaching after a few years.
>>
https://doogsmodels.com/techniques/
>>
>>6692251
Or maybe it's the look that someone prefers?
>>
>>6692251
Sweden was neutral (cucked by Germany) during WWII so it wouldn't have seen any combat anyways.
>>
>>6692256
Ok I just though it looked a lot like a us naval plane and I remember a few threads back you and I talked about Swede using foreign equipment like the chez tanks and I just figured this was a foreign plane repainted. If you want to go with the idea of this thing sitting out for a while the decals will need to be faded a little to match but how this would be done is beyond me
>>
>>6692272
Except it's not going to fade unilaterally. All the middles of panels light and all the edges of panels dark. It looks like it was done by a robot.
>>
>redditor's posts deleted
Based mods
>>
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Tamiya doens't cast it thicker than they have to.
(Right thread this time...)
>>
Decent 1/35 7ztp when?
>>
>>6692828
What are the differences from a T-26?
>>
>>6692977
Completely different tank.
>>
>>6692828
Can’t tell you much about the kit itself but I’ve bought from th seller before
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-do-Sklejania-1-35-Czolg-Lekki-7TP-Jednowiezowy-Plastic-Model-Kit-7TPU/112562011233?hash=item1a3537fc61:g:nbMAAOSwGPxaKNSG

Your best and possibly only real bet is East European manufacturers the polish company RPM doesn’t do English instructions and their kits are missing a few details but build up fine and look the part but it may be difficult to track down.
>>
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I'm working on adding basic ribbed detail to the interior of the flight pods of the Battlestar Galactica, never really done anything like it before but I figured trace it, work out the dimensions, create a template etc. After creating the template I realized how flimsy it was so I made a cardboard backing to let me cut onto the plasticard easier, turns out it isn't actually that great and leads to amazingly wobbly lines as you can see on what I'm calling the "final" piece for now. Once the pod is sealed up and you can only see it through the openings you can't tell how wobbly it looks, now I need to duplicate the process (and hopefully get it a lot neater this time) for the other side. I am considering adding more greeblies to the interior or maybe extending the vertical ribs to give them more depth but I'm not sure yet.
>>
>>6692995
Even the Eastern European kits of it are awful. Best option is to convert the Riich Modles Vickers.
>>
>>6693004
cAM not Riich.
>>
>>6692996
Or you could have just, you know MAKE INDIVIDUAL RIB PIECES
>>
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>>6693058
I considered it but I didn't think I'd be able to get consistent sizes and importantly spacing where as them being attached to a bar let me control it a lot better and also bend them to fit easier, I'm not confident with small fiddly bits yet but I'm learning - the second pod has gone a lot better, still has a lot of flaws, the main one being the plasticard snapping because I'm slightly scoring the bits by mistake when cutting out the inner ones.

This is all a learning experience for me and I'm enjoying it,.
>>
>>6693120
Consistent size should be too hard. Make a long strip and get that straight. Then just chop off suitably long pieces, which are then equally wide and straight sided. Then as you glue them down you use one of them to keep the spacing between those you glue. (Perhaps a bit late now of course...)

Alternatively a needle file could probably be (have been) used to straighten up your ribs a good deal.
>>
>>6693120
>This is all a learning experience for me and I'm enjoying it,.
Words to live by, anon.
>>
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>>6693134
That sounds like a good idea, I'll have a go at it tomorrow, can always remove or build on top of the existing ones.

Do you know what kind of knife is the best for the thicker plasticard? I'm using a standard hobby knife scalpel type and it's difficult to score it without hurting my wrists (old injuries) and accuracy is as issue as I'm only able to use the point, as you can see I'm having problems getting straight lines even with a ruler. Ive seen some different types like pic related and not sure what to go for.
>>
>>6693170
I'd guess a blade with a bit of a belly would do better than the usual dead straight edge, but I haven't tried it myself. Another thing to try is to lightly score the plastic where you want to cut, and then gradually bite deeper and deeper instead of trying to cut through directly. Possibly bending it to break instead of cutting all the way through and then filing/sanding the side.
>>
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>>6693120
>but I didn't think I'd be able to get consistent sizes
>implying what you have now has consistent anything
I got bad news for you

if you want a bunch of parts of autistically same size you got 2 options
>be autistic and don't stop making them until they are exact same size
or
>be smart and use machines to cut them for you
>>
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>>6692278
>>
>>6693298
That's primer.
>>
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pic is probably my best build to date. GAZ-AAA pulling an AA gun

>>6692828
I feel like Hobbyboss will be the company to make that happen in a few years.
>>
>>6693473
Is that the hobbyboss miniart or zeveda kit? I want to do a germ captured Gaz with a small flak gun in the back. I’ve been conflicted on buying any companies model, zeveda do to reputation and hobbyboss and miniart because 45+ usd for a truck that small with a mold that can be reused for so many versions is a little bit much to me
>>
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>>6692202
Guess that was Nazi picture you were hoping for!

*laughs in panzergruppen*
>>
>>6693473
Please no, anyone but Trumpyboss.
>>
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Old friend of mine gave me this can anyone pinpoint where those soldiers come from
>>
>>6693487
Hobbyboss. Any kit with their GAZ-AAA chassis is a bitch to put together, I imagine MiniArt is even worse. As for price, I probably got mine on sale from Squadron.

>>6693637
Hobbyboss's T-26 variants are good kits, not too complicated or anything. Considering the 7tp is in the same family, I think they'd do a nice job of it
>>
>>6693920
They are flawed kits like every Trumpyboss kit. And Trumpyboss is notorious for copying resin aftermarket to fix the errors in their kits.
http://www.track-link.com/forums/site_blogs/19436/flat
>>
>>6693975
http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/151044-trumpters-132-su-27-molds-updated/
>>
>>6693975
There is no such thing as a perfect kit. Even Tamiya kits sometimes aren't all that great. Especially detail wise
>>
>>6693995
For the price they charge it should at least be somewhat accurate. Trumpeter makes major mistakes in their kits that cannot be easily fixed.
>>
>>6693981
This right here. Fucking chinks
>>
>>6693473
The aa gun looks amazing. Truck is decent
>>
>>6693995
Logical fallacy. Make an argument against what I said.
>>
>Check parts list before unsealing!

No parts list included.
>>
I guess my intrest fall within the sweet spot with trumpyboss kits that being prototype and forgotten pre war vehicles. Granted almost all of those kits are the more recent molds and it’s not really possible to criticize a paper tank for missing details. However I give the old kits a wide birth even if they are at a lower price and I have no experience with thier aircraft kits do to lack of intrest.
>>
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>>6694008
another shot of the gun, just for you
>>
>>6692996
Design that shit in a vector drawing software and glue it on your pla-plate. Then cut around the pattern.
>>
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>Trumpeter: More rivets.
>Worker: But sir, it was seam welded.
>Trumpeter: I SAID MORE RIVETS!
One of my few experiences with Trumpeter.
>>
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>>6694089
How the surface should actually look. The F8F was seam welded and not covered in rivets.
>>
>>6694053
Thx bb
>>
>>6694089
>>6694090
>you know what western devils like? Rivets
>right away sir!
>>
>>6694089
>>6694090
My guess is they saw that the actual aircraft does have rivets although difficult to see even on the real aircraft so they just said fuck it an blew the rivets up.i can see why they did it although it’s not an excuse and with more effort it could be done correctly.
>don’t include the rivets and literal rivet counters call it a shit kit and your average joe builder will think it lacks detail
>BTFO the rivets and the average joe is more likely to think it’s a detailed kit while the people who know about the thing will call your bullshit
>>
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>>6694122
95% of those rivets aren't supposed to be there. The construction of the F8F involved seam welding rather than riveting on panels which made it the fastest piston engined aircraft, though, it didn't see combat in WWII.
>>
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>>6694126
Found a better picture.
>>
>buying things because they look cool and they are cheap
>lizard goys and 1/35 hentia
I have no intention of playing warhammer but I like the lore and some of the models look cool and the clamps had THE ALL MIGHTY CLAMP written on the box
>>
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>>6694143
The miniatures I want aren't cheap.
http://legendarion.com/oblitterarium.html
>>
>>6694147
Not that expensive. Cost about as much as a 1/72 tank
>>
>>6694147
The little raccoon guy looks cool but he is definitely steep. Granted this is the definition of a luxury item no one really needs model tanks, planes, lizard bois, or raccoon guy, but I don’t know 15 Euro(18 usd) is a bit much for one figure
>>
>>6693586
har har.
I was referring more to the fucked up copypasta.
>>
>>6693785
Cant really tell you...post more pics with better definition please.
Are those soldiers from the Blaue Division?
>>
>>6694143
"The All Mighty Clamp" corrects to "The Almighty Clamp" and shows me chinese pipe clamps and woodworking tools, did you get that thing online or in a shop?
>>
>>6693785
I think the motorcycle is the zündapp ks750 from italeri
>>
>>6694215
>some how I sperged so hard I got almost every word on the box wrong
They are from amazon and the most fucking Chinese thing ever. For cheap bullshit it was worth the gamble and with just a little modification (the tape around the metal arms you can see in the picture to tighten them up) it works just fine but some people seem to be having issues with them so buyer beware I guess

https://www.amazon.com/Almighty-Airbrush-Adjustable-Flexible-Magnetic/dp/B002KJ0CBQ
>>
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>>6693120
Taking a break from ribs, now trying to cast some replacement turrets. I've never cast anything before so I did a bit of research and ended up buying some "siligum" two part moulding paste. I did a little test with one turret to see what'd happen and it looks like it holds detail really well, then I realized I'd need some way of casting the underside as well - a quick look on YouTube later and I've put together a little box tool (made from spare cardboard, a couple of matchsticks and plasticard for reinforcement and to act as guises) which I'm about to try out, I hope it works as ended but I'm not sure I'll be able to get an equal depth on both sides of the mould or whether that even matters. My plan is make the bottom mould, let it dry, then without taking the turrets out make the top mould and hope it all just works. Wish me luck.
>>
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>>6694189
>>6694225
Any Clue where this is from
>>
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>>6694323
>>
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>>6694327
>>
>>6694327
The lead guy may be one of the guys from this set but modified. I used one as a machine gunner my self
>>
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>>6694333
>>6694189
Nope regular Wehrmacht and SS
>>
>>6694339
Stop posting this, jesus. One picture is enough
>>
>>6694333
guy in the background could be one of the guys in the back from this set. his face looks more rounded and like the old tamyia figures so that may be a match to one of them
>>
>>6694360
Didn’t mean background I meant the guy in the back walking
>>
>>6694360
>>6694338
Thanks
>>
>>6694369
Alright this one took a little thinking out side the box but I think your friend may have used this set and combined the officer and the biker to get the pose seen in the final work.now we have hit a problem and I’ve done all I really can my friend the guy in the back can be from any generic germany infantry set and if my theory of your friend kit bashing is correct it could have parts from two or more kits
>>
>>6694339
Sorry, I couldnt see the eagle in the helmet, only could see something red and yellow so I thought it was the Blaue Division.
As other anons have sayed, it might be a combination of various kits (Im sure about that).
>>
>>6694228

Don't buy this, it's trash.
>>
I typically use burnt umber oil paints for panel lines, but sometimes find that it unevenly fills the lines. I’ve heard that using an enamel provides more uniform coverage, particularly model master.

Anyone wanna weigh in on this?
>>
>>6694581
That’s a picture of the box for the product I bought anon.it needed a little modifications but its worked fine for me but like I said the reviews are pretty negative so buyer beware. I like it
>>
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who else is excited for this fucker of a kit?
>>
>>6694718
>trumpyboss e-100 Krupp turret is almost a year behind schedule
>feels bad
This thing looks cool but I thing the short barrel guns scheduled for 2018 is more my cup of tea
>>
>>6694735
They do seem to have an annoying habit of announcing stuff and then completely forgetting all about it.
>>
>>6694805
My main gripe is that they already have a e-100 chaise that 3 models have already used by this point and the new jagpdpanzer e-100 came out ,but a new turret mold and maybe a rework of the turret ring is to much for them to do in a timely manner
>still no box art yet even
>>
>>6694849
2015 they said...
>>
>>6694234
Make sure your molding material doesn't stick to itself! Silicone has this problem; you need to apply a release agent to prevent it from forming one solid block. Other materials (such as Oyumaru, I think) don't stick to themselves, but I can't give an exact answer on what will and won't work.
>>
>>6694857
>1/700
Who cares?
>>
>>6694604
use enough thinner
really mix it
mix it before you load your brush
apply in small bits
>>
>>6693243
>>6693120

You can try getting a T square, a triangle, and a metal ruler. Mark out the pieces and cut them using a hobby knife and the ruler. If you want to go for a little more speed and ease, it might be easier to cut them out in individual rectangular lengths, then line it up and glue to the long piece.
>>
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The pain of 1/35 soldier kits . WHY IS THE BOLT SO SHORT
>>
>>6695582
Is that a mas36? Bolt should be on the other side
>>
>>6695602

It is yes , along with a pistol holster . I should really get an airbrush when dealing with Tamiya colours shouldn't I ?
>>
>>6694581
>It's trash
Care to elaborate?
>>
>>6695607
Yup. Tamiya cant be handbrushed for shit
>>
>>6695697

Oh well I will try my best .
>>
I frequently use an airbrush because I’ve found that I’m not very good at hand brushing. His my paint thin enough or too thin or not enough? What can I do to remove the streaking? And how many coats generally do you have to put down?
Or is there a good video/tutorial you can recommend?
>>
>>6696130
Btw, it’s Tamiya acrylic with Tamiya acrilyc thinner. Is there a better paint that I can use to brush?
>>
>>6696132
Yeah. Any acrylic paint that's not Tamiya. Like Vallejo, Ammo, AK, Italeri etc.
>>
>>6696132
>>6696130
see:

>>6695697
>>
>>6696140
Thank you, I will look for those brands. Will I need to buy the corresponding thinner? Or should those brands not be thinned?
>>6696141
I just saw that after I posted. This answers a lot of my problems that I’ve had. Thank you.
>>
>>6696142
I just thin acrylic paint with distilled water
>>
>>6696142
>Or should those brands not be thinned?

Thinning isn't about which brand, it's about what consistency the paint has and what consistency you need for whatever you're doing.
>>
>>6696144
Good to know, that is very doable.
>>6696152
This is true, I just meant if they were “ready to go” in a way. Guess I worded it kind of asinine. Some people, not on /SMG/ have told me to not bother thinning my paints at all. But I suspect that isn’t always true.
>>
>>6696164
>But I suspect that isn’t always true.
The opposite rather. You will usually need to thin to some degree.
>>
>>6695679
>guy wo actually owns it and not the guy calling it trash.
It’s cheap Chinese junk but mine works fine. I doubt the QC is great and you could easily end up with it being utter shit.
>>
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fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck. After all that work it might as well be a practice kit
>>
>>6696441
Not sure what Im looking at or what the problem with it is
>>
>>6696529
boogies are crooked
>>
>>6695697
Is there a reason for this? Other acrylic paints (e.g. Citadel and Vallejo) do just fine with multiple coats and don't really get streaky.
>>
>>6696743
Tamiya is alcohol based so it has different properties
>>
>>6696743
Tamiya acrylics are alcohol based and behave like lacquers in that the solvent (alcohol) can be used to be reactivate cured paint.
>>
>>6696763
>>6696820
Cool. Guess I'm picking up Tamiya paints at some point.
>>
>>6695679

The plastic crocodile clips are very loose on the stalks and tend to fall off. Also the clips from the stalks to the metal bars on the bottom aren't flush so they can't bear the weight of parts very well without moving.


Threw mine out within a week, but I suppose like another poster said a little modification could make it better.
>>
>>6690132
>>6695313
I don't suppose you have any references for the Chinese variant of the 222? Not entirely sure what all the differences are but they gun positions were swapped at the very least.
>>
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>>6694089
Cartograf: what kind of decals u want senpai?

Academy: lookin to flex my origami skills

Cartogaf: say no more
>>
>>6698304
>I'm too retarded to decal
>>
What are the best pair of nippers/cutters one could get?
>>
>>6698547
I just use harbor freight flush cutters and never had an issue
>>
>>6698547
Tamiya sharp pointed side cutters.
>>
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New year, time to get going on a new build. Starting so to say at the beginning, since Tamiya made a neat little sub-assembly out of the nose.

>>6698304
Should give you some feeling of sympathy for all the map makers having to deal with issues of projection, so a very suitable job indeed for a company called Cartograph.
>>
If I do chipping with paint brush/sponge using vallejo model color (german cam. black brown for example), should I be thinning the paint and if so how much?
>>
>>6698645
If it's too thick you'll get small lumps or pebbles of paint on the model, or it won't let go of your sponge properly.

If it's too thin then it may run or be too transparent.

Thin if and as necessary to end up in between those two.
>>
>>6698304

Cartograf decals can take so much abuse, get a bottle of microset and microsol and this should be no problem.

The trick is to lay decals down on a gloss coat and then top them with a matt coat for military stuff
>>
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I'm about to airbrush for the first time.
Generally, how complete should the model be before the primer and paint, since this is in a different league than just using a brush?
>>
>>6698750
You should at least clean the mold lines from the machine guns.

It depends on the model. I usually build it in several parts. Lower hull (in your case i would attach the road wheels already since they are easily reachable), upper hull (without tools) and tracks. Turret is separate anyway.
Then prime and paint everything and then put together.
Sometimes if tracks are obscured for the most part (like on a Maus for example) i put them on before painting too.

But besides, if you never airbrushed, i recommend you to test it on a plastic bottle or some cardboard first to see how it handles. Spray plain water first, then try some paint.
>>
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This sure is fun. What is everyone working on?
>>
>>6698903
Christ, you're only making it look worse. Just buy a metal barrel.
>>
>>6698907
Nah, he's done an ok job. Ain't perfect, too large and somewhat uneven, but not awfully so.
>>
How should I paint the tracks if I want the model to be "factory fresh"? Just nato black and nothing more?
>>
>>6698931
Do you even know what the tracks are made of?
>>
>>6698927
>defending your own post
Sure is reddit in here
>>
>>6698903
>>
>>6698903
Is that a pz2000 barrel?
>>
>>6698936

I just looked at track painting guides which seem to do something along the lines of

1. nato black or similar
2. rust wash
3. pigments for dirt
4. pigments or graphite for metal on contact points

From your reply I take it I should do 1 and 4?
>>
>>6698941
Yeah. 1/72 Revell
>>
>>6698903
My current backlog
>Revell 1/32 Mustang
>Hasegawa 1/32 Mustang
>obscure Japanese company 1/48 Jaguar
>Airfix 1/72 Me262
>obscure Japanese company 1/72 A-7 Corsair
>Hasegawa 1/72 Phantom
>Tamiya 1/48 Razorback with Eagle Strike decals
>Tamiya 1/48 bf109e-4
>Revell 1/72 Intruder
>AMT '70 Camaro 1/2
>Monogram 1/48 Frogfoot
>Monogram F100D Super Sabre 1/48
>Monogram 1/48 Skyhawk
>Bandai Y-wing
>Italeri 1/48 Panavia Tornado
>Tamiya 1/48 Tomcat
>>
>>6698949
>Tamiya 1/48 Razorback with Eagle Strike decals
Which decal set? Might be worth a pretty penny.
>>
>>6698949
A challenger appears
I have a bunch of started shit myself.
>>
>>6698949
Backlog:
>1/350 Hobby Boss type IX-C U-Boat
>1/48 ICM Bf 109F-4Z/Trop
>1/72 Modelcollect T-90A
>1/72 Airfix Bf 109F (going in the shit pile)
>1/48 Tamiya Jagdtiger
>1/72 Zvezda IL-2M
>1/35 Zvezda SU-100
>1/34 Tamiya M41 Walker Bulldog
>1/35 Hobby Boss T26E4 Super Pershing
>1/35 Trumpeter E-25
>1/35 Zvezda BTR-80A
>1/48 Hobby Boss T-34/76

And that's just my non-wargaming stuff...
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>>6698950
American jabos part IX
>>
Most of my stash is started. I probably have over 100 kits...
>>
>>6698966
Ahh, that's not one of the money sets.
>>
>>6698949
>>6698965

1/48 Tamiya IS-2
1/48 Tamiya Pz 4
1/48 Tamiya Sdkfz 251
1/48 Tamiya Stuka zu Fuß
1/48 Tamiya Hmmwv
1/48 Tamiya Hmmwv Cargo
1/48 Tamiya Marder 3
1/48 Tamiya M4
1/48 Tamiya Firefly
1/48 UM GAZ AAA
1/48 Hobby Boss T-34-85 (2x)
1/48 Italeri Puma (2x)
1/48 Italeri AB-41
1/50 Revell Viking Ship
1/48 AFV Club Tiger latest
1/48 Tamiya Stug 3 B
1/48 Tamiya Panzer 3 L
1/48 Tamiya russian 1,5to truck

Alot to do this year.
>>
>>6698968
Me too.

I won't buy anything new if i don't finish at least 2 things though. Otherwise it will never go away.
>>
>>6698978
I just keep buying and never finish anything.
>>
>>6698981
>local hobby store going out of business
>they liquidate their supply
>tfw keep coming home with a billion kits i got for roughly $30
>>
>>6698983
Every cloud, silver lining, etc
>>
>>6698946
>>6698936

Of course I should just paint them in a steel color.
>>
Question:
If you get a fairly expensive and hard to find kit, do you build it and test your skills right away? Or do you hold off until your skills are better so you don’t turn it into a disaster? I got a $300 1/12 Tamiya kit that’s begging to be built, but I’m wary of my skills.
>>
>>6699031
If you have to ask this question, this hobby probably isn't for you.
>>
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I've never built a model before. How fucked am I?
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>>6699035
I don’t see how it isn’t ok to ask. I didn’t know if anyone else just saves kits for another time because it’s harder to find or expensive. I’ve botched other kits before, but they weren’t $300.
>>
>>6699039
you basically just wasted whatever money you spent on this, you will fuck it up, if this is your first model im also assuming you dont have any proper tools too unless you are those warhammer guys who say they have never built a model before even though they have built thousands of miniatures.
>>
>>6699039
Why did you buy every aftermarket under the sun for something you, allegedly, don't know how to put together?
Read and watch one of the fuckton tutorials and get a general idea, you can do okay on your first but you need to pay attention and know a bit what the fuck is going on.
Or get some cheapo practice kits.
>>
>>6699209
>first kit
>makes everyone jealous
>probably better than anything they can make.
Nice.
>>
>>6699197
>>6699209
I built a Gundam once so I should be fine.
>>
>>6699225
pics?
>>
>>6699230
Don't have any. It was years ago.
>>
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>>6699197
>>6699209
>>
>>6699218
Why would anyone be jealous of buying that?
>>
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Hello. I mak. Pls no bully
>>
>>6699270
Looks good.
>>
>>6698903
Sanding the fuck out of putty all day. Its tamiya though so its not too bad
>>
>>6698983
Literally my dream
>>
>>6699218
Not holding my breath on that
>>
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>>6699039
You're literally me months ago except I got shilled into buying a Tamiya™ Leopard 2A6 tank, a bunch of Tamiya™ tools, a few Tamiya™ paints, a few Vallejo weathering shits and an Iwata airbrush plus compressor.
>>
>>6699039

I did the same thing when I first got into modelling, I wanted to make the most complex and detailed subject possible. I found out the hard way you have to practice and refine skill over time before attempting a high-detail project.

Don't let that discourage you though, put that kid and the extras to the side a choose a model which is simpler. Practice and experiment with techniques. Once you have a few models build which you are happy with then start more ambitious projects.
>>
>>6698983
I wish i had a hobby store in my area only so it could go out of business ...
>>
>>6699044
I have a couple of tanks i want to build later too.
>>
>>6699225
If this isn't bait, go to amazon and buy Tamiya M41 Walker Bulldog and Tamiya Panzer II, they should cost around $10 each and you can practice on them before you waste your expensive kit with beginner mistakes.
>>
>>6699039
If you never built a model before how the hell do you even get hold of those stuff . Only those with experience know how to acquire after market sets from suppliers .Unless you got talked into buying those by a friend which is an ass for recommending you such stuff for a beginner
>>
>>6699992
>Only those with experience know how to acquire after market sets from suppliers
Get a load of this retard
>>
>>6700002
It's a super secret club.
>>
>>6699992
Someone’s butthurt that they aren’t the only one who can buy detail parts. Have fun building your 1/48 sad violin.
>>
>>6699992
>go to facebook
>join modellers group
>ask for a good online shop
>find a tank i like
>below it the store page says
>customers who bought this also bought
>a shitton of aftermarket stuff for this kit

Its not rocket science Anon.
>>
>>6700175
>using normiebook
>>
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2018:
>Trumpeter 1/72 T-62 + variants
>Trumpeter 1/72 T-80 + variants
>Trumpeter 1/72 T-10
>Zvezda 1/72 T-14 (not snap kit)

>mfw
>>
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>>6698903
Looks a lot better now. Could have done a better job. Guess I'll have to do better on another one. We'll see what version I'll do. Depends on how well the build goes. Been looking at some builds online and found a couple of good ones. The more I look at them the more stuff I want to improve on my kit. If scratchbuilding goes fine I might not need a PE set for the other PzH2000 I have.
>>
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>>6700296
Would like to build this
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>>6700300
>>
>>6700037
I love this and im gonna start saying it all the time
>>
>>6700296
Yup. Looks fine
>>
>>6700300
If your lookin for a kit of it and got about 60 bucks meng has you cov
>>
>>6700566
>$60
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/rz4pr0aho3fpsaasrinr.html
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/hggzoqfdrk6stywwqi08.html
>>
>>6700586
>33€
Is this fucking site legit??
>>
>>6700598
>He doesn't know buying Chinese manufacturers is cheaper from China/HK
>>
>>6700608
That wasn't the question m8
>>
>>6699039
Leave this on the shelf and buy cheap old shit off of ebay and practice on that before tackling this.
>>
Opportunity to buy a 1/350 scale Tantive IV for a good price but the damn thing is almost 2 feet long. Should I go for it?
>>
>>6699039
Am currently making USS Arizona as my first model
I’ve problems fucked up the deck placement/hull alignment by using to much glue between the two hull peices meaning their are spots to which you can ssee between hull and deck
(If I fail it at least I have a tomiya m4 easy eight)
>>
>>6700919
>do you have room for it
>will you build it
>are your skills up to it
>do you have room in the stash
If no on any more then three of these then I would say no. I’m all for buying shit you think looks cool but i also only buy stuff I know I will finish
>>
>>6700942
Don’t sweat it anon unless your part of the great race of yith then your first few builds aren’t gonna be so hot. It takes time and practice to get good at anything if you learn from your mistakes ask questions and read/watch tutorials with in a year or maybe less you should move away from the mistakes your making now. Then we can get to the fun stuff such as making your buils not look shit and more realistic.
>last remnants of my first build a tamyia tiger2
>>
>>6700694
>>6699992
>>6699795
>>6699788
>>6699209
>>6699197
>>6699039
>samefagging this hard
>>
>>6701074
1/48 sad violin boy at it again I see. How’s the build going?
>>
>>6701081
>1/48
>Not 1/700
>>
>>6698547
God Hand SPN-120
>>
>>6694126
If you're feeling in a crazy mood, you can always sand it down a little bit, lay in some masking tape, scribe new panel lines using the tape as a guide, then smooth it all out. Masking tape to protect the rivets you want to keep. Patience required.
Also, you can fill in the errors with a bit of CA and polymer powder or baking soda. It's a little more solid than tube putty.
>>
Anyone have any tips for painting the stealth-paint on F117 and B2s? Flat black is just bland on models, and unless they're post-mission they're unlikely to be dirty.
>>
>>6701437
Try looking up ace combat for a few references
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>>6701437
But the coating is flat black...
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>>6701443
>>
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>>6701439
Looks like they've done theirs in a very dark grey, which kinda works. I've seen a few models done that way online, and I'm not a huge fan of the look.
Why does black have to be so difficult?
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>>6701437
Weathering Aircraft #4 has an article on painting an F-117. The basic idea seems to be paint & highlight it dark grey, then black filter to taste. Or you say fuck ti and go chase the dragon...

http://www.mediafire.com/folder/971c66wpst1pe/Weather
>>
>>6701443
I know, but often copying real-world colours directly just looks shit on models. I guess modulation could work on the F117 due to it's sharper lines.. Maybe panel lighting in a very dark grey with black shadows could work on the B2?
>>
>>6701448
Brilliant, cheers for that.
>>
>>6701449
>I know, but often copying real-world colours directly just looks shit on models.
???
>>
>>6700598
It is, but depending on your country you have to pay an import custom fee depending on the value of your order.
>>
>>6701454
Think of it this way: In reality, we don't paint real vehicles with varied colours so they look pretty. We paint them a single flat colour, in the case of military stuff especially (not counting camo of course). It's the light and shadow that makes that colour look varied. If we did that on models, they'd look flat and boring, so we add in our own highlights and shadows to make them more appealing to the eye, and deceive the viewer into believing they're looking at a (more) realistic vehicle, but smaller.
>>
>>6701484
For example: The side of this B-1 in the left image catches the light, and looks far lighter in colour than the rest of the aircraft; yet, it's all painted the same flat grey, as we can see in the right image, from the same piece of footage.
>>
>>6701484
>>6701488
Don’t forget the colors people just completely avoid doing correctly. Panzer grey is probably one of the best examples being a very deep black that loses all detail in it so people just use light blues and greys instead.
>>
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>>6701454
>he doesn't paint for scale effect
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Quite a bit a lot of stuff in the cockpit here for 1/72.
>>
>>6701515
>he doesn’t know how to read or be proved wrong
>>
>>6701539
>He doesn't know what scale effect is
>>
>>6700566
I'm building the 1/72 Revell one. Maybe in the future I'll build a 1/35 Meng one as well.
>>
>>6699270
>Pls no bully
then i'll just stay silent...
>>
Anyone have any tips to keep these glue needles from clogging up?
I got a small thingy of revell contacta with a kit my parents bought me, I've had a bad experience with humbrol poly cement and that piece of shit kept clogging every single day.
>>
>>6701646
Just use a lighter when it clogs
>>
>>6701646
i keep a small wire inside the needle when i'm not using it.
>>
>>6701443
>>6701444
>>6701437
If you look, the bodies arent just flat black. Theyre different shades of ery fark greys. Paint a base coat of black and do highlights in very dark greys and it will look a million times better
>>
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Should I worry if my thumbprint caused a big glue smudge on my fuselage or will paint cover it up?
>>
>>6701894
Plastic cement works by melting plastic, stupid weeaboo
>>
>>6701896
I know that, dingus. I just want to know if I should do something about it
>>
>>6701897
Yes.
>>
>>6701596
True I do not
>>
>>6701894
What you see is what you get usually, if you can feel it with the fingertips then sand it carefully and fill if necessary.
>>
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>>6701437
I assume the F117 uses the RAM paint everyone else is nowadays, which has tiny iron spheres in it. I remember seeing some manufacturers marketing RAM paints in other colors, which I assume trades off a little bit of detection countermeasure but not sure. The skin of the aircraft will not escape IR even if painted black...
Reportedly, the J-20's absorbing layer is cured to the panels before primer layer. Not sure if that's how it's done for other aircraft.

>>6701448
A little extra info on the Gray Dragon
https://theaviationist.com/2012/08/31/gray-dragon/
>>
>>6699270
A decent toy, a is shit scale model.
>>
>>6702299
that's a great photo
>>
>>6702299
Looks like the chinks only know how to copy shit Looks like an F22 + F 35
>>
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>>6702583
They did steal a fair chunk of the technology for the J-20 but they have made a few innovations of their own. Oddly, they still haven't managed to make a decent jet engine but have managed hypersonic missiles. I'm skeptical about their quantum radar claims.
>>
>>6702630
Impressive the small size of F-22 engine's.
>>
What ever happened to that site where you could upload a picture and the thing could spit out paints with a similar color?
>>
Badger airbrushes are all 54 dollars due to a special. Check out their facebook page for more details
>>
>>6703027
Aww, man the shipping to me is 36 bucks plus 21% VAT PLUS 8 euros (fucking piece of shit national postal jew company). So the total should be around 100 euros.
Should I do it? And which one is better: Krome or Sotar 20/20?
>>
>>6703027
This looks good. I have only ever owned a crappy Masters airbrush before. For general model painting, what model should I look at?
>>
I'm about to start putting together my first tonk, should be fun and it was cheap enough that if I royally bugger it I can get another.
>yes I know it's not actually a tonk
>I'm not particularly fussed about 100% accuracy, just want to start somewhere with a cool out of the box model, been doing lots of research and figured it's time to do it
>>
>>6703213
The 105 Patriot. Have one myself and it has served me for 6 and a half years.
>>
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>>6703222
Forgot my pic
>>
>>6703213
>>6703223
Yup, patriot is great. Im gonna try and get an upgrade today but not sure what to pick
>>
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New year, ""new"" project. Now it's crystal clear to me that the scheme for this one is the one I posted in the earlier thread for the aml-90 (https://imgur.com/KLLiY2e), this one will look really cool on this leopard I think. Still don't know what to do with the mal but something will come up I guess.
So far it's quite good but has some shit that will be a pita to get right in the turret. Also the barrel (mine at least) is misshapen, can be repaired but I'm seriously considering getting a resin/metal one, maybe put a L55 instead of the L44 it has.
>>6703122
SOTAR 20/20 is better iirc, and ~100€ straight to your doorstep is a really good price. Check reviews of both tho. Also have in mind that getting spares might get expensive or time consuming if there's no badger supplier near you.
>>6703213
As other anons said get the patriot 105, near indestructible and perfect main workhorse
>>6703226
The terminator is quite cool, if you end messing up or down the road want to re do it but with a nicer base Meng and Tiger model have it too with all the fancy stuff like metal barrels and better engineering. What scheme do you have in mind?
>>
>>6703243
You could get the RB model L44 barrel. It costs like 7 euros and is pretty good. Got one myself for a future project
>>
>>6703223
>>6703227
>>6703243
Looking at the Patriot on their site, this seems to be what I am looking for. Thanks anon.
>>
>>6703250
Will check them, quite cheap so I might try to get the l55 too and see. The thing with this armor is that the gun looks really small, and a longer one would look more balanced I think
>>
>>6703243
I see you got some AK real color paint. How are they? Are they just re-brands of something or AK's own paint line?
>>
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>>6703289
Yeah, bought four to test them: olive drab, olivegrun, clear blue and flat varnish. I think this will get me an overall idea of the range.
So far I tried the clear blue today, pic related, in the optics (irl they should be clear or smoke in the prototype but I felt like doing them blue) with tamiya x20a. I did this highly thinned to tint the clear but I can say that the pigment is really good and they mix and airbrush really well.
Tried to make clear violet for science with some tamiya clear red but got clear black/very dark blue. Seems that you can mix them but not sure if the color would work as planed. I should try it with regular solid colors and see but I think they work with tamiya and mr color.
As for the paints themselves afaik they are made by ak, or by some oem only for them, but not 100% sure.
>>
>>6703327
How do they compare to ammo or tamiya paints? Are they alcohol based?
>>
>>6703335
The clear paint is really similar to tamiya acrylic ones, yeah they are alcohol based and work with x20a. Tomorrow I'll try them with lacquer but should work out just fine like tamiya/mr color paints.
Ammo ones are polyvinyl based (like Vallejo and regular acrylic ak) so the comparison is the same as with ammo vs tamiya/mr color in this range. Ammo airbrushes okay, pigments are excellent and mixes fine with similar type of paints (Polyvinyl types) but the tamiya acrylic types are even better to airbrush and have really nice pigments and durability (worse than pure lacquers but slightly better than polyvinyl acrylics).
I think of this ak "real color" range like the "tamiya version" of the regular acrylic colors from ammo/ak/vallejo so if you're invested in tamiya acrylic paints for airbrushing but wanted the color accuracy out of the jar of ammo/ak these paints will come handy to get "late War dunkelgelb" and stuff like that. Although mr color has a lot of paints too that might cover this niche to some extent.
I still have to try the other colors and the varnish to have a solid opinion but for now as I already have the colors I need in regular acrylics I won't go out of my way to get these to replace ammo/ak/vallejo polyvinyl paints.
>>
>>6703361
Have you tried thinning Ammo/AK paint with Tamiya lacquer thinner? Read about it on a modelling blog and tried it myself. Got much better results than thinning with distilled water. The paint has a much smoother finish and sprays a lot better.
>>
>>6698965
>>6698949
you are both insane.

i have 4 in stash and that's too much.
>>
>>6703381
Nope, does it work? Usually this kind of mixes end up as a gunk but if it's supposed to work out then I'll try it.
>>
>>6703405
Yes. First time hear about it here: http://www.themodellingnews.com/2016/12/painting-weathering-panda-hobby-t-15.html
Been thinning ammo paint with Tamiya lacquer thinner ever since.
>>
>>6703243
Glad to see you back mang
>>
What is the difference between the Badger Patriot and the Xtreme Patriot?
>>
>>6703243
I have no idea about scheme, I've not even considered paint yet, it takes me long enough to build something. I'm impressed by the level of detail this thing has but my word is it fiddly, I'm not used to working with such small pieces which has revealed a big problem for me - I'm using revell contacta glue and the nozzle is too wide, I'm drowning tiny pieces in glue which is no good, I switched to citadel glue to see if it was different and it was not, so ive stopped for now. I've got brush on superglue too but I don't think that's going to work too well either, need some time to reposition things.

Am I right in thinking that this is the reason in all the videos I've watched people are using those tamiya cement cubes with the brush applicator? I see there's lots of types and I'm not sure what to get
>tl;dr what glue/cement should I be using for it
>>
>>6703515
>>6703243

Heck I see in your picture you've got multiples of the cube cement sfudf
>>
>>6703515
Post pics of the mess you made. What do you mean you're drowning parts in glue? Which Contacta are you using? The one in a tube or the one with the needle applicator?
>>
>>6703564
Needle applicator.
No matter how gently I try to squeeze it a large glob is always coming out, for the very thin joins such as the bars on the engine deck it's far too much, they're less than a mm thick at the join but I can't get a suitable thin layer of glue. The piece I'm pointing at here I wanted a tiny amount on but it ended up with almost as much glue as plastic, you can see where it's squided out.
>>
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>>6703579
>>
>>6703515
Put down a drop of glue on a piece of something. Then either dip the part to be glued into that, or dip a toothpick in it and use that to apply to the model.

Also, get some Tamiya Extra Thin or similar for your main glue.
>>
>>6703580
Ther would likely be weld seams around anything welded to the hull.
https://www.scalenews.de/bmpt-terminator-walkaround/

>>6703243
The Leopard is my favorite tank, but man is that ugly.

>>6703517
Not him, but I have two bottles of Tamiya extra thin, one new and one used which has gathered sanding dust from the brush, a bottle of regular Tamiya cement, and a bottle of Tenax-7R.
>>
>the mig shill is back
fuck off jimenez
go shill on reddit like ism/ump has started to do
>>
>>6703361
Funny how both AK's and Mig's dunkelgelb is considered inaccurate by the Nazi armor modelers
>>
>>6702922
Never heard of it but it sounds pretty cool. If you ever find it again, please share
>>
>>6703385
I'm this guy
>>6698965
I tend to just pick up a kit with a plan to use it, then never get round to finishing it. I do 28mm WW2 wargaming, so the 1/48 stuff is mostly for that. The 1/35 stuff has been sitting for ages untouched, and the 1/72 were intended to be quick projects that never got off the ground properly.

I did have dioramas planned for the SU-100 (city street in berlin, a couple of figures and some looted stowage) and the BTR (polite people/little green men) but they never got past the concept stage.

Also audio captchas a SHIT
>>
>>6704488
Get a load of this BS.
Calm TF down.
>>
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AMS is kicking in again. I thought this would be a simple build
>>
>>6704527
Autistic Modeler Syndrome?
>>
My dad used to be a tanker in the British army, he was stationed in Berlin for a while. For his birthday I'm trying to track down his tank and create an exact replica of it (or as close as I can, I'm still a novice.) It was a mk3 centurion with a 20 pounder cannom so I've gone with the tamiya mk3 kit, waiting for that to arrive currently. I know the paint used so I'll be looking for that but what I'm struggling with is the giant IR searchlight (pic related, not the actual tank but an identical one) - would anyone know where I can find one similar, or do I need to scratch build it? Additionally is the photo etch from eduard worth getting? I'd know more if I had the actual kit in front of me but it's going to take a while to arrive.

Final question, for unit markings and the like I've not found any accurate decals, can anyone recommend a decent custom service in the UK? If not I'll just hand paint it.
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>>6704144
I remember it being in the OP for a while. Time to check the archive I suppose.
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>>6704585
mk. 3 centurions didn't have IR lights

in fact i don't think any of the 20-pdr cents had IR lights (except Australian ones)
>>
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>>6703250
>Check the 1/72 barrels
>Running from 0.67 EUR
>125mm at 1.23 EUR
This is great, I never buy this kind of stuff because they go out of budget. I do hope shipping isn't retarded.
>>
>>6704651

They did, added at the end of the 60s in West Berlin to the centurions.
>>
>>6701437
Hey, I was having a conversation with someone just now and the Iranian fake stealth plywood plane came up. While digging for a reference pic, I came across an F117 in desert colors. Thought it might interest you
https://www.thisdayinaviation.com/tag/hal-farley/
>>
I’m so sick of filling gaps, sanding putty, and filling more
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>>6705347
What kind of putty are you using? I am having good luck with milliput.
>>
>>6705348
Just switched to tamiya. Its pretty good but no matter how much I sand I can still see the border between putty and plastic. Been going up to 2500 grit wet sanded
>>
I think you guys would think I’m crazy if you saw my stash. I buy them because prices fluctuate so often on 1/24 or 1/25 model vehicles. Right now vintage kits go for 30 and up usually. If I can get a recent reissue I will but most of the time the decals and unique items are issue specific. Probably have close to 50 right now. But I have the room to store them.

>working on this now.
It’s a 1970 Challenger by AMT. the roof and body are separate pieces and look like butt just glued together. So I’m puttying, sanding, repeat. The hood had a hole in it and had to be patched with styrene and filled with putty. Yes it looks like a lot but that’s the best putty I had at the moment. Anon yelled at me last time about mold lines and seams, so trying to get better about those. Thanks fella.
>>sorry for blog post
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>>6704928
broofs?

because before the IR light upgrade, there were alot of other upgrades, like upgunning to the 105 mm i.e. not a Mk. 3

even the pic you posted has a 105 mm, probably a Mk. 9/1
>>
I use Mr Surfacer 1500 for a primer thinned with lacquer thinner. Would using mr color levelling thinner make a big difference?
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>>6705928
Yes.
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>>6705936
Thank you.
>>
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The mailman couldn't be arsed to get me my canopy mask before the weekend, so this is as far as it gets for now. Really good transparency at least.

Now if I get fed up with doing what I should be doing instead of the Reisen the Combrig Boevoi (Bditelnyj was out of stock) could probably be a good little project to get started on in the meantime... except that was missing one casting block and the replacement stuck in customs until they've rubbed their dicks on it enough. So maybe Kirishima then, at least I have everythign for that one.
>>
>>6700586
Nice site.
Any other recommendation? I want to buy cheap armor online
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>>6706309
That depends on what brand you are looking for.

Ebay has usually good deals with free shipping for stuff from asia in general, Aliexpress for chinese things.
>>
>>6706228
You do the antenas with sprue or ez line?
I wanted to try rigging cords but seems pretty expensive
>>
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>>6706322
EZ line (well, Uschi's to be precise, but it's probably much the same). It's marvellous stuff.
>>
>>6706309
LuckyModel; also based in HK.
>>
Anyone used the flory/promodeller washes on top of metallics? Does it work well or mess up the finish?
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>>6706660
On top of the paint or gloss varnish?
If it's on varnish it doesn't matter what you use for a wash.
>>
Well, my putty work isnt perfect but I’m sick of doing it so good enough i guess
>>
>>6706666

I'm using AK xtreme metal which stupidly enough are enamel based so I'm looking for a non enamel based option.

I'm a bit worried about clear coats messing with the look of the finish but they appearantly do have a varnish that is supposed to be paired with it. So I guess on top of a varnish.

It would just be nice to use something that definitely wouldn't react chemically with the metallic paint itself. With the flory washes I was concerned that it would mess with the shine or something.
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1/72 revell/mpc Falcon. How I did it /toy/?
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>>6706792
Better pic
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>>6706800
Could use a pin wash for some definition
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>>6706800
>>6706792
Pretty fucking bad for a 250 dollar kit
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>>6706875
>someone is jealous that they can’t afford it.
>>
Is there an alternative to using cotton buds to wipe away a wash? Buds leave fibers everywhere
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>>6706875
Hahahaha jokes on you I got it from 30 usd
>>
>>6706875
The MPC/Revell MFs are not $250...
>>
Maybe you fine people can help me out.
Built the bandai model kit for yoda and i have applied mr hobby flat/matt coat a bunch of times but i just cant get the head of yoda to look less plastic, should i try to use a different brand of coat?
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>>6707341
pic?
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>>6707359
The weathering is not quite done yet
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>>6707366
>>
>>6707368
its unpainted plastic right?


The most matte varnish i know is AK ultra
https://ak-interactive.com/product/ultra-matte-varnish/

If that won't help then i guess you have to paint it..
>>
I'm probably in the wrong place but what other colors can I pick up that go good with these?

I'm using Vallejo olive as a primer
>>
>>6707471
That depends entirely on what colours you want to paint. But do get yourself a pot each of black and white at least for shading and highlights. Assuming plague marines are on the menu a yellow to mix in with the beige for really nasty pus and boils. Have a plan for flesh and tentacles. Black and brown washes will probably be your friend.

>I'm probably in the wrong place
I won't chase you off, but you may find yourself more at home over in >>>/tg/57283120
>>
>>6707473
Thank you anon, time to get a lot of white, black, and brown

I'll be back here one day when I get good enough to paint scale models
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>>6707478
You should start with scale models actually. They're way cheaper and you can use them to test color schemes.
>>
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Hi,

I recently played Wolfentein TNO and TOB and I really liked the design of their Horten Ho 229.
Now I am wondering if such a kit exists or if I have to scratch/bash. Scalemates has very little of the Ho 229 in general, so I think I am in a bad place to begin with. Do you have any recommendations?
>>
>>6707509
There should be a Horton by Revell in 1/72. I remember having one as a child. Probably out of production since that was 20 years ago.

There also is the DUST wargame, they have an airplane in a similar style. Scale of that game is 1/48.
>>
>>6707509
There is a Dragon kit in 48 as well as a Revell kit in 72.
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>>6707277
I misread. But theyre based on the FM kit so still pretty expensive right?
>>
>>6707527
Revell usually sells cheaper, but their 1:72 falcon still costs around 150-200€
>>
>>6707277
>>6707527
Revell's rebox of FM seems to be $250. Their own Snaptite mold is more like $60-70 by the looks of it. The onyl MPC kit I can find on Scalemates is 1/78, long out of print, hasn't been reboxed by Revell, and seems to be about $55-70 +PP on Ebay.

So fuck knows what he built, and have fun sorting out who's right about what between you guys.
>>
Have you ever added swastikas to non-nazi models?
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>>6707561
Why would I?
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>>6707561
Historically they would have iron crosses.

>>>/pol/
>>
>>6707586
Iron crosses?

Thats a badge, not a symbol. Wehrmacht used the Balkenkreuz, Bundeswehr uses the Tatzenkreuz and the Luftwaffe indeed used the Swastika on the tail of the airplanes.
>>
>>6707586
>>>/v/
>>
Airbrush is doing that thing again where everything sprayed is realy grainy and its bumming me out.
>>
>>6707627
Learn2airbrush
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>>6707627
To much pressure.
>>
>>6707627
too much pressure, the paint's drying before it hits the model.
>>
>>6707627
Check the mix, water in the system and/or pressure (too low or too high, 20psi is a generic sweet spot).
>>
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>>6700296
Down the rabbit hole I go. Decided to sand off all the raised hatches and scribe them in because they're not supposed to be raised
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>>6707277
OP Here is a modified snaptite model , forgot to mention that
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>>6707730
Also tried some terracotta. I might be crazy enough to do it
>>
New thread:
>>6707801
>>6707801
>>6707801
>>
>>6707509
They do exist but to get anything like the in game model would require modifications.
>>6707561 never put them on none german vehicles but the usage of them on capture equipment would be logical.




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