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I want to get an arcade stick for actual arcade games and not fighting games. I'm looking for recommendations, preferably not ones like in the image here where the buttons are a little too close to the stick.
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>>12211267
>actual arcade games and not fighting games
Then you want to go all Seimitsu parts, likely an LS-32 for joystick. Of course this means buying whatever controller that looks appealing to you and replacing the parts.
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>>12211375
i do seimitsu lever because of the short throw and sanwa buttons because they activate lightly

it depends on your game but this config is best at most 2d games imo
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>>12211267
I have an 8bitdo and it works great
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>>12211267
The current market's best entry level arcade stick is the Mayflash F500 V2.

If you mod it I suggest an LS-32. Avoid the LS-32-01 with a PCB and look for the normal LS-32 with fastener type spade connectors. Then order a set of spade connector to 2-pin JST connector wires. Avoid the daisy-chain 5-pin version, that's harder to work with.

You want the fastener type LS-32 because

1. you can replace any one microswitch if it fails without needing to replace the whole PCB.
2. You can replace the Omron switches with Matsushita/Panasonic switches down the road if you get really deep into lever autism.

For the buttons the Mayflash buttons are fine. They use clones of Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons for the plastic plunger and housing, and Kwanda MM9-3 clones of TKC MM9-3 keyswitches for the switches. That's a lot of words but it means the Mayflash buttons will feel like Seimitsu PS-14-KN buttons, which are "fine".

However, if you want to mod the buttons you can order Sanwa SW-68 switches and put them in the Mayflash body and you will have a result essentially 100% identical to real Sanwa OBSF-30.

Unless you want to change colors, then just buy anything you want...
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Look at this clueless idiot butchering a fairly rare vintage arcade stick

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0F6H1r7m3C8

There was no need to do any of this. The lever in these Hori sticks comes into two basic varieties, short-hinged and unhinged. This is the unhinged variety, and the oldest example I know of. Thus one could argue this is Hori's oldest version of what would eventually become the Hayabusa lever. Performance-wise it is an excellent lever and putting in a LS-33 Kai is imo actually a downgrade, and anachronistic.

The buttons are an unknown model number that was common in the 90s from Hori. It's like a PS-14-G, but the hole is sized for a MM9-3 switch instead of a MM9-4. Thus the buttons use MM9-1 solder terminal switches. The performance is absolutely identical to real arcade buttons. Swapping them for PS-14-GN did absolutely nothing and was completely unnecessary.

All the grinding and cutting is just butchery and gore. Don't do that. Respect Hori, pls.
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>>12213273
>Thus the buttons use MM9-1 solder terminal switches.
Correction: MM9-2. The performance is identical.
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Absolutely nothing insightful will be said in this thread.
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>>12211402
Practice practice practice
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>>12213301
What would you consider insightful?
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>>12213328
Whatever his favorite reddit circlejerk has already said about the subject at hand.
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>>12213348
What does the reddit circlejerk say?
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>>12213351
I have no idea, but whatever it is it hasn't yet been mentioned here. Hence his whining.
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>>12213328
Firstly, that is the correct distance for a lever and buttons. No matter how massive the stick is that how the lever and buttons will be placed unless its an extremely odd custom build. When you sit down, your arms naturally fold inwards, and this is the most comfortable position for them.

Secondly, 75% of the price of an arcade stick is the case. I have a 19" qanba obsidian that I got on sale for $125 a couple years back. Obviously this is an insane deal, because it costs $100 to get an 18" case. I like a large arcade stick because it sits securely in my lap and gives my hands a place to rest, unlike the stick in OP's picture. This means a large "budget stick" will have dollar store parts in it. You do not have to buy a case. You can buy the parts for a stick and put them in a shoe box. If you like it, you can then later buy an acryllic panel and case later. This will be much cheaper. Or you could just buy an expensive stick and use it forever and replace parts as they go bad, which are very cheap.

Thirdly, most good sticks come with sanwa parts. There is virtually no difference between a sanwa and a seimistu. For someone who has never used an arcade stick to order a seimitsu would be insanely retarded. I have gotten 1cc's with both. I have played fighting games on fightcade with both. The only use case I have ever genuinely preferred a seimitsu for is playing sasquatch in vampire savior, (this game sucks) because it makes doing rapid 664 inputs less painful. But for inputs in general I would prefer a sanwa. Sanwa and Seimitsu are both fine, all that matters is that it's one of those, because anything else will be A LOT worse and really noticable.

Do not use mayflash buttons either, they are awful and sanwa buttons are dirt cheap.
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>>12213419
>Firstly, that is the correct distance for a lever and buttons.
You're under-informed about this subject, especially as OP specified they're not primarily interested in fighting games. There have been a several different distances between the lever and buttons on control panels over the years. The most popular layout of recent times, the Vewlix layout, has the lever and buttons so close together players sometimes complain of their hands colliding.
>When you sit down, your arms naturally fold inwards, and this is the most comfortable position for them.
This is not necessarily the goal, as historical accuracy could trump comfort or objective performance.

>Secondly, 75% of the price of an arcade stick is the case.
Disagree, and you even made points against yourself about this. The parts are going to be the most expensive element, although in some cases a modern PS5 PCB can be quite expensive. There are a great many good-sized arcade sticks on the secondary market that can be upgraded to the user's demands.

>There is virtually no difference between a sanwa and a seimistu.
I don't disagree with this, and would go even further and say there's not much difference between Sanwa/Seimitsu and the supposedly inferior alternatives from Hori, or the generic levers used by companies like Mayflash or no-name manufacturers. Levers are not complicated devices.

However, they are also not very expensive, all things considered, and a person who desires period-correct controls will be interested in the (small) differences. The mounting plate of an arcade stick control panel is a very underrated element, as a person who gets into arcade gaming will inevitably want to install the levers that *are* significantly different, like a Nintendo (Asahi Seiko) MDST-14-12. And those won't fit in most consumer arcade stick panels.
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>>12213481
An example of a wider distance between the lever and buttons. On a vewlix layout even if you use the right six buttons you still won't have this spacing.
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>>12213481
>You're under-informed about this subject, especially as OP specified they're not primarily interested in fighting games
I am not, there is literally an arcade stick in my lap. To pretend otherwise is to mislead people who have never used an arcade stick before. Please do not ever reply to me again.
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>>12213419
>Do not use mayflash buttons either, they are awful
Mayflash buttons are literally exact clones of Sanwa OBSF-30 in terms of the button plunger and housing. The switch is different.
The switch is a Kwanda MM9-3, with identical performance to a TKC MM9-3. This same exact switch is used by Qanba in their non-sanwa non-gravity standard button offerings.
The Qanba Crystal, for instance, uses this exact switch. I believe it would also be found in the Qanba Drone, but have not verified.
They are not "awful".
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>>12213491
> there is literally an arcade stick in my lap.
Which means nothing? You have one example. The whole idea here is that there are many different distances between lever and buttons, and no, there isn't one of them which is objectively correct.

You didn't even specify which layout that arcade stick in your lap is using? Sega 1P? Vewlix? Noir? Sega 2P? Something else entirely? You're coming across as ignorant.
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>>12213419
>There is virtually no difference between a sanwa and a seimistu.
There's virtually no difference between a ps1 d-pad and a megadrive d-pad. Except there's actually a huge difference...
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>>12213536
It goes like this

Lever - D-pad equivalent
LS-22 - Sega Mark III
LS-25/32 - Megadrive
LS-33 - Game Gear
JLW - NES
JLF - SNES
LS-40 - Saturn
LS-56 - PlayStation
JLX - PlayStation 4
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>>12211267
I use a Mayflash F300 modded with all Seimitsu parts (LS-32 and PS-14-G)
Realistically, you can just get any cheap arcade stick and replace all the buttons and stick with any Seimitsu parts of your choosing
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>>12213579
btw, people don't tell you this but you'll want some pliers for removing the pre-installed buttons. those chinks put those things on way too fucking tight to remove with your fingers.
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>>12213536
Only non-playing retro collectors larp about seimitsu
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>>12214008
you're an idiot
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Mayflash F300 and F500 are kind of the only decent values on PC depending how full sized you want, cross shop whether the Elite versions with Sanwa parts are worth it pricing wise to you. F300 is sort of barely good enough but the F500 is just lacking all the buttons on current consoles that you only get in newer designs since 8th gen and you're stuck with the 7th gen Vewlix meme.

If you want current gen console support your options are pretty much eating a dick and eating a dick although you get more options in button and stick layouts.
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>>12214152
>F500 is just lacking all the buttons on current consoles
F500 has a touchpad button for training mode reset.

What arcade style game needs L3 and R3?
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>>12214224
They may used in things like menus or training mode commands in modern releases if nothing else, to say nothing of SF6 being an 11 button game.
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>>12211267
The Makestick series is on discount right now on ISTmall if you're okay with Korean parts. The Myoungshin Fanta is a great cheapish lever.
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>>12214984
gooks like their tekken, so they might be good
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>>12213569
>>12213419
and because the seimitsu pad has diagonals for real it means that it's better than the sanwa shitty snes like feel (and that isn't even true, it has no good diagonals, feels like shit and is cheaper than the seimitsu).

Just for minimal quality you buy a seimitsu, buying a sanwa is like buying a broken seimitsu and even the original patent of arcade japanese levers are the seimitsu, with sanwa being a mediocre clone made by sanwa becoming independent from seimitsu as the original manufacturer.

Never fall into the fgc propaganda, even a seimitsu bootleg is better than a lever with no functional diagonals and of a worse quality.
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>>12215258
You're an idiot.
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>>12211402
you dont really need fast buttons like sanwa. Might aswell get something that feels good to press
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>>12213419
>There is virtually no difference between a sanwa and a seimistu
This has to be the most retarded thing I've read on 4chan in years. You can't be serious. Even the closest Seimitsu lever to a Sanwa JLF, LS55/56/60/etc feels significantly different. LS32, LS40, Nobi all are entirely unique levers, OSBF/OSBN have no proper Seimitsu counterpart. tl;dr, shut up retard.

To answer OPs question, but a Mayflash F500. but the Elite if you're feeling like you're good with the commitment, if you want it to work with retro consoles better hope GP2040 adds support or shell out for the shitty Brook PCB and drill a hole for a panel mount RJ45 jack. You may need to solder some, don't be a pussy, just learn how to do it.
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Just build your own, it's piss easy. The components are made to be installed in whatever configuration you want. As long as you can build a box and do some basic wiring you can make it however you want
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>>12216403
the reason I like them is because you can gently rest your finger on them and it will actuate. It doesnt fatigue you at all. Great if you're playing games where you have to hold down a button for hours at a time, like shmups
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>>12212974
Same, though I went with the Xbox version which is slightly different and doesn't use quick disconnect wires for the joystick.
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>>12216572
I have a jlf and a ls32 in my hands right now and they perform exactly the same. The only difference is the ls32 has a smaller gate. (This is a huge negative in 99% of use cases btw)
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>>12211267
sega system



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