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You are a beg for at least 2 years, depending on software. Post beg related issues, concerns, and work. If you are med, or adv, remember what it was like to be a beg and DONT confuse the needy begs.
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fucked up my dough Principle BSDF but I think its okay. Learned more about bezier keyframes than I did with premiere .
i love doing 3d autism
ty ty i gotta keep it real
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What causes the jittering in rendered mode?
This didn't work unfortunately
>increased spline resolution
>subdivided the curve (12 levels)
>made an empty and parent the camera
try the second answer here

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This is what I did earlier.. subdivided to hell until my viewport is in 4 fps, still the jitter persists. What I did change was to use Eevee instead of Cycles, the jitter goes away. Is this a problem with cycles?
Are you using geometry nodes?
none, I just used a bezier circle and object constraints
try 4.0 beta and also scaling up the size of the overall animation so it covers greater area
Will try. thank you anon
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>benchmarking my pc
>open up porn scene with animation
>hit play
>2 fps viewport in solid mode
>60% cpu util, <20% gpu util
where is the bottleneck?
You can visit Anime Nyan's discord nsfw blender server. It's packed with a lotta stuff, you have support text and voice channels as well
I'm working in Blender and I wanna do a quick fix up in ZBrush, is there a way to export/import so that it keeps the creases?
Nevermind, looks like you need to have a subdivision modifier on it and export it for it to keep the creases (even if you're not subdividing)
>creasing in zbrush
Not creasing in ZBrush, I'm just planning on importing back to blender afterwards so I just didn't want to lose it
it sounds like you are trying to sculpt on a creased, hard surface asset. What are you doing?
I was trying to fix up a messy mesh I exported from a game that had clipping from animation so I thought running the smooth directional brush over it a couple of times would help, but I ended up just having to move the points around manually and figure out what's what
you ripped from a game?
Yes, Blue Archive, I wanna 3D print the cute chibis
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I made a gob

How do people learn hand painting textures, I've been trying to learn 3dcoat but it's hard :(
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Please give me a modeling tutorial for stylized game assets that goes deep into painting (with Painter preferably).
I want to make low poly assets japanese style (lots of details on textures and stuff).
Actually seconding, is there an easy way to be able to draw in Clipstudio and see the updates on the model right away?
search for dota2 guides
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rock :)
nice, do more
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box spin
>is there an easy way to be able to draw in Clipstudio and see the updates on the model right away?
Unfortunately no but you can press alt+r when mousing over the image in blender's image editor, so you ctrl+s in clip, then alt+r in blender, it's not instant but quite quick once you commit this reflex to memory
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How do you smooth out shit like picrel in OP's image? Just add support loops / more geometry to smooth it out?

Goal is to have smoother shading in the arrowed area without the 'seam'.
This is actually good advice

Bumoing this >>960961 and here's actual models to illustrate what "style" of painting I'm trying to replicate
Im a unity junior dev and want to learn a new software to improve my cv.
What do you recommend me? Blender, Maya, Zbrush, etc?
auto smooth
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So I know the grey stuff are bones cuz I tried replicating the CSGO icon pose (i couldnt get past on fingers holding the gun properly)

But what are these? I played with it, they work the same as bones but it seems to me they are easier to work with. What are they called? How do you add them?
That's just bones using bone shapes that use drivers & other shit to control parts of the skeleton in an intuitive way.

These bones using fancy shapes is what you'd call a 'rig', aka the bones animators actually use to pose the character.
A good rig would basically never have need for you to fuck with other bones.
You can generate a rig like that with riggify addon (included in blender), though it's pretty janky and if you have no idea what you're doing will probably still be pretty frustrating + usually needs manual fixing, but it does get you ~75% of the way there.
I see. thanks
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I'm trying to learn blender, so fair I can block stuff out of primitives and edit them into other shapes, and I'm starting to understand parenting and a few of the modifiers. still sometimes struggling with the 3d cursor and hotkeys.

I want to learn rigging next, and how to make tubes and shit, hopefully with some kind of 3d splines that I can move around.

Ultimately I'd like to make stls. Can those have lots of overlapping individual parts that are manifold, or do they have to be one solid manifold mesh?
Oh, and panel lines. I did the top one by making a cookie cutter shape and boolean subtracting it from the panel, but there must be a better way.
What would cause black hair to look grey under lights in blender? Is it just overexposure? I’m using the principled bdsf hair shader and I’ve tried both direct coloring and melanin concentration.
your slicer can sort it out or you can join them all together before exporting as stl.
The splines are bezier curves you can turn them into mesh for cables.
For panel lines in the mesh for 3d printing you do need to Boolean or just extrude faces along normals. Addons can help with the panel lines and tubes.
OK, but like how do I get uniform depth, especially on curved surfaces? My intuition says to do something like make a slightly smaller copy of the item getting cut, or like an offset surface somehow and use that to boolean the object that's going to cut the panel line shape, but I'm not sure if that's the right idea.
Can go in with the knife tool and cut the panel lines into faces and extrude along normals alt + e. Or can make duplicate, boolean the main one all the way through, do intersect boolean with the same cutt on erthe 2nd and scale it down slightly. I would go into the pirate thread and get boxcutter / hard ops, mesh machine and maybe look for some panel lines addon.
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How do I replicate this without using booleans? Im trying to make the edges uniform
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how do i paint transluceny correctly
>2 years
>that model
give up
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I'm making models for a game but UV design seems like pure hell, how do I deal with this? This model isn't too complex but it is going to be on the player's face at all times so I tried making it somewhat detailed but I'm completely lost on how to start the UV unwrapping so I can not have to spend weeks texturing it, and also on how to do it on other models
break that into multiple objects anon. Texturing that will be a pain in the ass to match vertices. Aso, dragging around so many vertices on a singular UV map will lag like hell if you don't have a pretty beefy rig. ALSO, if you like to change textures for a singular piece in that scene, it'll be much easier to edit smaller textures than to edit 9800x9800 files
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here I did some stuff but

hmm. Some of the model's parts are different objects already (like the joysticks, pedals and even part of the hull since those are supposed to all move separately in animations) but should I separate them more? And also, should I have different images for each object? Or should I just try simplifying the model even more and reducing complexity further?
separate that into individual objects
Noob started saturday evening reporting in.
Any tips on learning sculpting? I wanna make a video game and I'm interested in sculpting humanoid faces for starters.
Sculpt 100 heads, doesn't matter if they suck, it's all part of learning
Every head you sculpt will teach you something you can do better
By the end of 100 heads you should likely have an adequate enough grasp of the process to make something decent

dont listen to this guy. You just need to study anatomy and read books on anatomy
Watch speedchar videos on sculpting the head, he gives a lot of good advise, and it is helpful to observe his workflow
First ever rendered model. Thoughts?
great work, now just keep on working and getting better, if youre struggling with it or keeping up the habit try making things youre most interested in
blender, maya, 3d max or c4d are good to know as generalist software, for games id say blender or 3dmax are good, maya is more used for animations, zbrush is also great to know, also substance painter and designer, these are kinda fundamentals 3d programs for gamedev
both of these
Just started Blender a few days ago and wanted to ask something, I did the whole donuts tutorial and all,but I wanted to know if there's any creators of vids in particular about character modeling toons,low poly,anime,etc,saw a few vids but the time was like a year or 2 ago so wasn't sure if anything from them was stil optimal to use and don;t to get into bad habits early on,
Old tutorials are fine. You'll have lots of hands-on time with whichever editor version you're using, but not a lot of hands-on time with well-made models, UVs or rigs. If you end up doing something really tedious all the time, there's probably an automated solution to it that you just have to google correctly to learn about.
Reading Blender's changelog also helps if some tutorial looks different to yours.
Thanks king
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I started messing with 3d modelling a few weeks now. (See >>964173 )
Found "Le donut man" and messed about with a torus for an hour. Then found https://m.youtube.com/@grabbitt
Reminds me of a school teacher in 80's uk so i enjoy his vids, also been watching https://m.youtube.com/@Imphenzia lately for low poly tips.
It is all down to a teaching personality that doesn't grate on you i guess.
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still struggling with topology
When it comes to character modelling, can Maya and 3DSM videos be used interchangeably?
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started blender back on oct of 2022. i used to be a damned purist back then, i didnt want to use assets i only used stuff i modeled myself. been tinkering w blender since then on and off (i still consider myself to be a beg) and ive learned some very important things like

1.) dont be precluded from using pre-made assets
2.) commissions are such a pain in the ass and
3.) volumetric fog is god

picrel my last art piece
Really great effects, man! I'm just imagining it animated with the ambiance of waves
thanks!! i wish i could animate it, but cycles and animating dont really work well together xd
Updated to Blender 4.0 from 2.9umthin, and a lot of the shortcut hotkeys are bound to the Z axis when pressed, Extrude being the most egregious. All the forums say to just hit Z to unbind it, but is there a way to get the old unbound behavior back? The forums also seem to be gaslighting me and saying that it has ALWAYS been bound to normals, but the unbound behavior is even in a lot of tutorials I've been following...
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Blender tech support needed.
Lag when dealing with rigs outside the original blend file of the rig :(
Art discord with a 3d channel, mainly community focused, we do a lot of vying. Pretty welcoming and we will try to help crit your stuff

Hello, I have a favour to ask. I want to learn Blender. I watched the classic donut beginners guide. Personally, however, I want to try making low poly creatures like picrel. It seems to be kind of a specific task so I was wondering what features and tools of blender should I master to achieve this. Something that can do sharp edges and generally low detail, but pretty complex shapes. Any advice or guides you could provide? Thank you.
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The Donut is more about familiarizing yourself with the controls and functions of Blender. Making the Donut establishes fundamental understanding of what the program allows you to do, and creates a space for you to practice basic tasks like navigating the 3D viewport. It's really worth your time to learn some of the more complex stuff, even if your aim is lower.

That said, super-low poly is best accomplished with a reference or concept image, a handful of primitive shapes, and the Modeling workspace. Familiarize yourself with moving vertecies and edges, merging and cutting new vertecies, and studying the models you want to emulate. I'd reckon old-school modding resources may have a tutorial or two that would suit your needs.
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I made this creature today. It's my first 3d model besides the donut. I had to disguise the lack of detail with pixels, but the end result looks pretty cool and i like the idea i had. Kind of inspired by the half life stalker. What do you think, bros?
I like the silhouette but overall it doesn't demonstrate a lot of skill.
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Anyone know which setting I fucked up? I appended the meshes to a different file and the sculpting tools work fine there. So I think I might have screwed something up when I hit the wrong shortcut keys.
pajeet made globo homo goyslop commercial

There is nothing wrong with your topology

pirate some addons for hard surface, tubes/cables and panels.

Just pirate some stuff that people recommend

did you cache the animations?
Did you check if you have a texture applied to your brush?
This is also a common problem when sculpting meshes that consist of distorted quads.
To get rid of that in this case you need dyntopo or remesh.
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Ok, second 3D model of mine. I tried going for the low poly aesthetic. I now need to learn how to apply some low res lizard scale textures and draw a face for it and it will be pretty neat. What do you think?
I used this guide which was really helpful for the sort of thing i wanted to do.
Do the models have a gajillion drivers and shape keys?
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has anybody incorporated AI to their workflow?
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Yep, nice start. You'll want to look at its center of mass to make it a believable creature. I've roughly marked points on the torso and head to show it's a bit front-heavy. Look at other peoples' depictions of naga and the fix you'll usually see is to make it lean back a bit.
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is this the correct topology for intersecting bevels?
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The low poly thread is about to die so I rather post here
I decided to follow the blockbench tutorial on how to make a truck and made this.
I know it's ugly but I'm surprised that in so little time I made so much and that I didn't struggle with the project or the program, I even think making more models will be fun.
Sadly I don't have any interest in undertaking more 3d art, what drove me here is an interest in making a 3d game and I'm far away from doing that project but now I know making it 3d won't be as painful as I imagined.
Either way, I'm happy and I hope you guys are doing well, keep it up
Handpainting is bevels. Learn them, love them.
Once you understand them, you'll realize you can get pretty much everything done with bevels.

Also, there are a few free youtube tutorials to get you started on getting more interesting information into your texture. Stylized Station comes to mind .
Pinching like that might appear when some edges are too close to one another, in an area where the rest of the edges are actually some distance apart. Check the edgeflow and make sure you have even edge distribution across the surface.
Also check for loose vertices.
In a metallic-roughness workflow, tweak the alpha for transparency (but never go to 0) and the roughness.
You'll probably need some kind of texture for the transparency and for roughness because it's hard to notice stuff when everything is flat in your texture.

For example: create a square texture and create a circular gradient in it for transparency (similar to a dirty window - clear in the center, opaque on the edges). Then create some Render Clouds and use that for roughness.

You'll have to tweak everything but it should get you started to understand how to get transparent but reflective surfaces, with interesting smudges on it. glhf
That's nice and clean. Love it. Keep at it.
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Looks OK to me. Save your scene and try removing the highlighted edges. That should turn everything into quads in yer intersection.
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>pajeet made globo homo goyslop commercial
Maybe that's what he was going for, as a critique.
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Hey guys. Just started working with Blender for gamedev. This is the second real thing I've made and I think it came out pretty well. To be fair I have a lot of experience with Tinkercad.
is cgtrader legit? i want to make a kind of christmas card for a friend but i dont have the skill to model everything
My friend doesn't know how to blockout or understand why it's helpful, and I've only drawn some 2D stuff and never 3D, what's a good way to explain or help? They want to just directly make the thing they have a 2D reference of.
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im learning to love quads and not just obsess over triangles everywhere
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>struggling with texel density and UVs in general
>get the Texel Density Checker
>use 256x256 texture for 3 different objects
>apply textures
>make them all the same texel density
>it resizes the UVs and ruins it
>pic related
fuck this. UV stuff is an absolute nightmare

best vid I've seen on low poly modelling. goes over the basics and introduces new stuff at a very reasonable pace
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alright I think I got a hold of it. maybe someone could check if the texel density is consistent in this? here's the file

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someone put me out of my misery. been using Texel Density Checker to try and keep a consistent TD, but it's making texturing a nightmare
I just want to be able to make different sized objects with the same texel density, but without the bigger or smaller ones becoming a mess due to no UV space [either outside of the UV bounds or far too big for it]
I'm applying scale before attempting to texture, for what it's worth
I'm probably misunderstanding your issue here because I'm a tard, but are you sure it's not doing exactly what it's meant to be doing?
"Make texel density consistent for these meshes" literally means "resize these uv islands so the scale of the meshes they're mapping relative to each other is roughly reflected in their new scaling". If you have a really big object and a really small object and "make their texel density consistent" and pack them so they fit in the rectangle, it's obvious that the big one will cover almost the entire 0..1 uv rectangle and the smaller one will be tiny. Because it matches the amount of pixels you're mapping to the area. That's what texel density IS.
Also honestly I wouldn't bother with that shit at all. Keeping it consistent may sound like a good idea in theory, but it's really a waste of time. Just roughly eyeball the scale of each island and you shouldn't have problems. You don't even HAVE to keep it consistent most of the time. It's really only important if you're using tiling textures mapped to uvs in your materials. Feel free to have bigger islands for more important parts otherwise. Also you can't keep the density consistent if you reuse any areas on the texture, like with trimsheets.
I downloaded blender yesterday and half the /faq/ links don't fucking work.
What do you folks think of link related? will I learn anythin by just copying this?
So I’m new to modeling but I’ve been working with wood for a long time.
Are there any 3D tools that replicate the types of things you do with wood tools? I’m especially looking for a lathe type radial sculpting tool. I have no idea how I would model something like a table leg.
Literally the 'lathe' tool is ubiquitous in almost every cg program.

If you are into woodworking and also 3d I'd reccomend sketchup wich has a fucking huge woodworking community.
My fault for using blender, the spin tool sucks ass, maybe I can find an add on that works better.
This. We're all eyeballing it.
Use a checker texture with some numbers on it to make sure the texture resolution is somehow consistent across all meshes in the scene and you're good to go. It doesn't have to be pixel perfect. glhf
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maybe I'm simply retarded, but I still don't fully understand how to maintain consistency across meshes
if I make a load of objects I have to take the largest one, get its TD and then set the smaller objects to it, which keeps everything consistent, but if I make anything larger it will ruin the whole thing due to the UVs now going outside the UV box [unless the larger object is a seamless texture, since UVs outside of the box don't matter when seamless]
how the fuck can I make a scene or anything consistent at all unless I know what my largest object is going to be beforehand, and why would I want to base an entire scene around lucking out on said object and getting the TD behind the scenes bullshit to work right by seemingly pure luck?
I made 4 objects and didn't even bother with the TD shit, I just manually seamed and unwrapped everything and textured them all using 128x128 textures, but that resulted in pretty obvious texel messiness with the smaller objects being more detailed
it becomes even more of a disaster as soon as I try to introduce textures with different resolutions
the whole thing is a complete mess and I'm convinced it's borderline impossible to keep texel density consistent across meshes
even when I create a default cube, set the texture size at the top of TDChecker to 128x128 (my textures) and set the TD it immediately fucks the UVs (see bottom pic)
FUCK IT ALL. no wonder people stick to 2D pixelshit instead, where a pixel is actually a pixel. I would love to know what the proper workflow for this shit is

>top image is assets made with no regard for TD, just 256x256 textures
>2nd is after applying the TD of the basket to the other objects, fucks them up, no surprise there
>3rd is how big the UVs become after I set the texture size to 128x128 in Texel Density Checker
>bottom is the default cube with a 128x128 texel density, with fucked UV space
What do you guys think of Plasticity
I'm not sure if this is really a /3/ question at all, but are there any resources on making skyboxes from scratch?
From scratch how?
Painting them? Taking photos? Rendering a 3d scene to use as a skybox? AI generation?
There's a bunch of different avenues you can take and all of them have pretty different workflows.
I am erect
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am I fucking up with seams or UV mapping somewhere, besides spacing? this all feels rather tedious and time consuming
I was hoping if I seamed it all properly the unwrap would take care of itself, but no. made a lot of UVs overlap if they can share the same texture, pretty sure that's okay
fucked up on the model in some places by making unnecessary faces but whatever
also when should I triangulate, and do I just let blender do the whole thing automatically with Ctrl + T?
You have some unnecessary seams in some places, like the neck area (I don't know what it is, so I'm just giving it human terms), and the weird skirt thing, but for the most part your seams aren't too bad. You're clearly picking up how to lay out seams for the most part. Overlapping islands is perfectly fine, with the exception of things like baking normals and AO, but if you're not doing that it's fine. Your actual layout could probably use a good bit of work to maximize space (you're giving a lot of space between islands), and if you wanted to you can size up the bits that are larger on the model to give it a bit more even texel density.
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here's the UVs spaced a little more nicely, hopefully that's better. top two stretched out blobs are the torso and head, so the most important parts get some decent space
I need to find a way to match faces to the same UV exactly rather than just stacking them on top of each other manually; the exported UV looks like death at 128x128 or 256x256
seems like you can copy UVs but idk
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Greetings, what is the best way to go about making a convincing effect of pulled down clothes? These are the results I have so far using Sculpt mode's Grab + Nudge tools, but the results look quite shite. :\
>I need to find a way to match faces to the same UV exactly
If they're the same islands essentially, you can just use ctrl while moving it to snap it and overlap them that way. You can change the snapping mode in the UV layout from increment (which just snaps things to set values), to something like vertex, and just grab an island and align it to the top left vertex of another similar island. The snapping dropdown it found in the center of the bar at the top of your UV in >>969323, right next to the magnet icon (though when it's off it looks like a tilted "U") that toggles snapping on/off all the time instead of just when you press ctrl.
If they still don't align perfectly, but they're really close, you can also just select a point and the ones you want to overlap with it, and just scale them to zero to get them all in the exact same place. Or just snap them vertex by vertex.
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Started Blender a few days ago, I have this tiny issue: whenever I change some value to default when creating a mesh, the options disappear and I have to create the same mesh again if I want to change the rest. I don't know what's causing it, I haven't touched the preferences other than having select on RMB.
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I have some questions over here
Managed to do something, but it feels like a dumb way to do it
That's definitely not normal. I just tried it with 4.0.2 by adding a cylinder, changing the vertices, then right clicking the vertices option to reset to default value and the options stay open and usable. Not even switching to right click select makes it mess up. Sounds like you're somehow deselecting the object or selecting something else, which closes the options. Save your keymap, reset to default, and try again to make sure.
that's not a dumb way to do it; if it's a seamless texture it can extend beyond the UV space and should tile without issue
as for the rest, I'm only a novice myself but if those are planes you're using to build the environment, you might find that the texture appears on the other side
also if they're planes, you might run into issues with normals. go in object mode, hit the viewport overlays in the dropdown menu at the top-right and select Face Orientation, anything that's red is bad
as far as texturing is concerned it's up to you, there's no problem with having multiple materials on a single model. I'd recommend going to File at the top left, then External Data and Automatically Pack Resources, so that if you delete or move the image files used in the textures it won't matter and make your model all pink and textureless when opened in the future
as for the stacking UVs, the Anon two posts above you answered it. hope that helped
>Save your keymap, reset to default, and try again to make sure.
I tried that but it didn't work, even hitting backspace closes the options. For the moment it doesn't really bother me but it's weird regardless.
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thanks, wanted to export to check how it looks outside of Blender and I get this now, guess something's wrong in there
Why is it so dark when the sun is in the sky
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giving up on this little project. my workflow is absolute shit
model it all > mark seams > unwrap > UV map > export UV map > apply textures in photoshop > import
it takes absolutely ages and there's almost definitely better ways to do it. would be far quicker if ReSprytile didn't suck. I spend so much time just maximizing UV space, it's crazy
I'm thinking I should create texture atlases and just manually move UVs over the master texture, even if it means breaking the way PS1 textures were handled
wanna try vertex painting too but already been filtered by it once before
First, check out this guy's post on artstation. That explanation is pretty good and it made TD pretty clear to me: https://www.artstation.com/artwork/qbOqP

Especially make sure you check the bit about the "usual" texel density that's used depending on the camera type: first person, third person, strategic.

Second, I didn't fully understand all of that wall of text of yours (lol, sorry) but I will try to post my workflow and see if you can extract something from it.

Let's say you give me those items from your image and I need to do them:
- yellow bucket
- that blue box of tools (?)
- that diamond
- that plastic lotion bottle

I'll decide, for example, that 128x128 = 1 meter2 in real life and in my scene. I will use an external checkered texture, for example this one, and use one of those squares as a benchmark for comparison: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021068/uploads/editor/ha/7frj09nru4zu.png

The image above is 1024x1024 and I'll use it going forward in my examples.

The smallest square should be 128x128. You can now resize all of your UV islands (eyeballing) by comparing them to the small square.

For example, if your yellow barrel is 1m high, the highest part of the barrel UV island should be approx. the height of one of the small squares. Same for the other objects. That blue box looks like 0.4 m. Resize the islands accordingly.

Try not to use any "tools" for this.
I use this method because it is independent from any software and, for me, it's fool-proof.
If you say that in your scene, 1 m2 = 512x512px, I can adapt to that immediately.

You can also be flexible with these values, if you want: 128x128px can mean 1m2 or 5m2, depending on your scene.

If you have too much empty space, you can group several objects in the same texture space (like an atlas) or you can crop the texture to the smallest power of 2 size that includes all your UV islands.
Really nice for quick hard surface non-organic highpoly, in my opinion.
I did one trial month. I'm going to do another one then I'll probably buy it.
For personal projects, don't worry that much about maximizing UV space. Try to do it right, of course, but don't obsess over it.

UV work is tedious and time consuming, there is no way around it. Some tools speed up the process, but it's still there.

Making a master atlas is a good idea if you plan ahead and know exactly what you'll need in the scene. Once you've finished the atlas and you start mapping objects to it, you'll get really limited really fast. As in, you won't be able to add new stuff to it and you need to be careful when fixing stuff in the atlas as to not go over the already established boundries.

The only workaround is to create a second master atlas for the rest of the objects that you forget to add to the first one.

I had a project where I started from day one with the following planning:
- 1 atlas: road textures (tileable up-down)
- 1 atlas: walls, windows and doors
- 1 atlas: transparent things (fences mostly)

Always try to keep the transparent shit separate from all the other textures and confined to a single atlas.
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idk man. how do i mouth? the tutorial I followed just had me draw a line and I kinda hate it
gave it another try, this time carved out a mouth and tried my best with teeth and a tongue. tried to replicate what I've seen in disneyland animatronics but idk. should work on improving hair too i think
late reply but thanks for this Anon
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is there a way to change how seams work, so that I can avoid this color / tone difference even when faces are right next to each other? the seam sticks out like a sore thumb
I had to mark the seam to unwrap it properly, but doing so means said two faces are far apart in wrapping terms, despite being so close
you can see the problem on the UV on the left with the two selected faces
i heckin love recreating movie scenes in blender https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qleAYUThyU4&ab_channel=pinilandok
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what are these random ass lines? they don't show up when I do a render and I can't really interact with them much but they're still kinda annoying me. when I click the curved ones it highlights the legs and when I click the straight one it highlights the torso. other than that they don't seem to do anything
These look like rig helpers. They're basically handles for the armature bones with shapes that make animating easier.
don't recall doing anything with a rig or bones yet. gonna ignore it for now then I guess. thanks anon
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first time attempting a face could use some critique, how bad is it lads
Easiest way to identify this would be clicking one of them in object mode and looking at the outliner in the upper right. It should show you what you selected.
eyes too large (looks like the black bitch with the bulging eyes used in all the games recently - you know, THAT one). cheek shouldn't be this concave - there should be a slight protrusion around the lower corner of the eye. jaw line looks crooked, but that might be the perspective. mouth looks goofy as well, but that could be the style you want.
yeah the lips are fucking atrocious, struggled a lot with those. gonna be practicing those a lot in the future i think. went back this morning and fixed some shit, added a little more to the cheek and adjusted the jaw a little and tightened the area around the eyes and nose. going off a more stylized reference from a youtube tutorial so it's not gonna be perfect anatomy but still want to do my best with it here. appreciate the advice
Check the rotation of the uv islands
Your problem here is the texture/image region you placed the uv on. They're obviously very different in brightness and thus the threshold between the two islands is visible when directly placed next to each other. Try moving around the UV's that make up the seam to a more similar coloration and it shouldn't be this obvious anymore. You could als try manually texture painting on the unwrapped object to make the difference less obvious.
Probably just the parenting struggling to update.
Try rendering a short video. It probably won't jitter.
Crease only affects subdivision. What the fuck are you talking about?
Blender is much more versatile than fucking sketchup.
Don't listen to that guy.
What you're looking for is the simple "bevel" function. You can set a custom curve in the live options when you bevel an edge.
If you want circular sculpting you have to use radial symmetry (set in the N menu). Keep in mind that you'll need a pretty dense mesh, or turn on dyntopo if your pc is beefy enough.
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It also affects the Shade Smooth without adding subdivisions
You can flip half the uv tube onto itself and merge the verts that make up the ends. That will make a seamless mirrored loop.
Use sharpen edges (Ctrl+E) for that, not crease.
Also, you can smooth shit in blender in a myriad of ways. Why are you switching to zbrush??
Oh it's an old question so I forgot what I meant
I exported lowpoly models from a game and wanted to use the smooth brush to fix up the topology since I'm used to it
I ended up figuring it out another way
>thigh and belly handles
Why is 3d modeling so... erotic...
is there a way to view my mesh in triangles without triangulating the whole thing? I need it for vertex painting
if I need to edit a mesh later but I've triangulated it, that would be a pain
There's a triangulate modifier you can use. Then you can just turn it on in edit mode and you should be able to do shit without committing to actually changing the geometry.
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testing vertex coloring on monochrome textures. pic is untextured
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and this is just with the dirty vertex color tool, just letting it do its thing and moving the sliders a bit
this is for low poly stuff, seems really powerful, also similar to how Vagrant Story did their environments. not sure why more people don't do this for their retro throwback stuff
also fuck it while I'm here; is there a way to use dirty vertex colors on specific parts of a mesh only?
I tried selecting only the faces in the gap, inverting selection and hiding the rest, then using dirty vertex color on it, but the rest of the geometry was also affected by it
when I hide stuff and then unhide it they're still selected. wondering if there's a way around this
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I started practicing 3D modeling with Blender yesterday, and here is today's result. Next, probably to practice modeling of the body parts.

It looks pretty dumb but you gotta start somewhere I guess
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I've a question. I've done some modeling, but I've never animated before. I want to learn how to make game animations by practicing making a simple game which will have quite a few animations, so I've quickly made this admittedly shoddy model. It's this bare because I want to make modular equipment, and I also want the game to work on lower end mobile so I tried to make it on the low polygon side and with limited materials (the whole thing uses a single material with one 1024 texture) and as few bones as I could (I ended up using 73, though I'll have to make some for equippable objects too). Now I need to make the actual animations, and I don't know how to approach it. Is it fine to learn animation by only using FK? Or should I make like, a proxy armature (so I wouldn't have to clutter the main rig with useless bones) with arm IK, leg IK and what I think is called "reverse foot rigs", and then bake the animations to the main one? And should I get an animation course or something? Or is learning solely by doing (how I learned to model) realistic enough for animation? I'm at a complete loss on how to tackle this. I'm guessing the sensible answer would be "depends on how good you want it". Well, I don't care how shit this project will turn out, I know it will be pretty bad regardless, I mainly want to learn to animate for games with this project so I just want to get some good experience.
Don't worry if you're a beginner. There are experts on this board who will teach how to turn your shoddy model into this >>969395 in no time.
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trying to replicate the vertex colored enemies of FF7, really love the style
messed the wings up but it's cool

is this intentionally supposed to look like claymation work? if so good job
The first time I've looking at >>970895 I was like: "WTF this looks bad". But looking at it again I don't think it's that bad anymore. It's kind-of growing on me.
On export you can opt to only export deformation bones, so you don't need a proxy skeleton at all. All your IK motions are baked into quantized FK motions and the control bones are removed.
Oh, that's great! I didn't realize it was an option, but I see it now in both the fbx and gltf exporters. I'm guessing I just need to untoggle "deform" in the bone settings and it'll be ignored, right? Thanks!
Based FF7 enjoyer. I fucking love this, anon. Although, the thumbnail made me think is was a Zubat. Have you done any human characters in this style?
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thanks man. that's all I've done so far but this is a current work in progress, just need to finish the coloring
I'm really loving this whole vertex coloring thing
where do I go to download ripped 3d models for vidya. models resource sucks ass oh and something fbx, I'd like to learn how to take a obj and add bones to that too I Guess so if there's tutorials on that I'l try
get the game files from a game's CD / ROM or whatever using IsoBuster, then you can view the files in Noesis
I did this recently with Vagrant Story and it was easy. can convert them to fbx and other file types within noesis so you can view them in blender too
if that doesn't work then just try to look it up on a game by game basis
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I've never modeled before but I started messing around with Bryce 7 and I'm really enjoying it
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Sharing my first 3d model done from a drawing i made. I'm learning rigging right now
Good workflow
Nice, Show you your workflow Anon
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why does this always seem to happen with grid snap? just trying to line it up to the opposite side and it extrudes diagonally
only way I can keep it straight is by pressing the corresponding axis key but it's still pissing me off
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first animation, not using bones just manipulating positions of separate components of the head (top/main head, topmouth/nose jowl, and bottom jaw
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here it is without the shading (only using for blending the mesh pieces)
swear I'm going fucking insane trying to figure out the absolute hellscape that is texel density, UV unwrapping, scale etc
I could make a model with a 256x256 texture, then make another model a few days later with the same texture size but they'd look totally different because the scale / texel density might be totally different
the only semi-solution I found for making environments is using a texture atlas, but that forces you to make everything grid-like and very square
3D is a nightmare for autists that want consistency
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Well, I did it, any criticism or recs?
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You need to try a lot harder. You don't even have the bare minimum going on to resemble a donut that has been fried. You don't have texture variations on various parameters

Here is my donut I made in 2022, for reference.
and even I can admit that mine is plasticy - i didn't put enough variation on the spec roughness
Good job anon, try making whatever you want next
Not the purpose of the excercise retardo
>Not the purpose of the excercise retardo
what? He was axing for crits
That icing looks like my tarry ass diarrhea. 10/10 would eat
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not finished yet but I have a question regarding vertex coloring
left is solid, right is material preview, smooth shading on. which should I be using to show off these kinda models?
the right looks a bit better, but it also adds a lot of information that isn't actually painted on the model, it adds in shadows and such even with scene lights and and scene world turned off which is kind of annoying
also, did devs in the PS1 and N64 days have the ability to mark certain edges as sharp?
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Made an entirely new model, and i guess I'm an animator now(?)
is this real
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Does anyone have suggestions or ideas on what's making this look so bad in render? as in material/lighting. its supposed to be the interior computer of a spaceship looked at from the front. (screens are placeholders) and I don't know what to do
I always snap to vertex for that rather than grid. Seems to work better.
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I just weight painted it and it wasn't that bad. Evertone makes it out to be so hard. I found uv unwrapping way harder
Define bad. What did you expect?
Some generic things that would help: No background (scene) or HDRI means very artifical looking lighting. Nothing looks real under these circumstances, if that was what you aimed for. It's specially hard to image how the object fits into the rest of the scene.
Some of the geometry looks way too round for a machine, especially the screen. Add some more details around edges, rather than beveling it all to death. You need some smaller details anyways, as the object looks way too simple, even with your added "clutter".
Why does it have panels in front below the waistline? If anyone were to use this, what kind of info would display on those? How to control the space ship from this thing? Come to think of it... this thing reminds me of Stargate Atlantis consoles and tech; All artsy, but hardly any substance or usability for the details shown.
Oh and some of the smaller panels on the front vertically are misaligned. Unless you were aiming for that, just use a mirror modifier with something at the center of the console (an empty, another object, whatever) so you don't have to edit stuff twice.
Hey, im new here. Why does this board hate blender and shill maya?
Maya is industry standard. But to be honest 90% of what you learn (the other 10% is just stupid stuff you can get used to in a couple weeks at worst like ui and hotkeys) while 3d modeling works on every program so it doesn't fucking matter what you use unless your work needs you to use an especific program
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so I was playing around with the boolean modifier and somehow I accidentally an anime eye. Do I just go all in and start making anime porn like the rest of you retards? Or should I send my application to work on family guy ASAP? AITA? (3d btw in blender, it's free)
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thanks, the less round screen does look better but I'm going to keep all the boxes the same size roughly because I just modelled them around the reference image and it will have ui things inside them. what do you mean by detailing the edges, making them sharper or?

I changed the lighting. Discovered there was a rendering tab and it made it look much better, the way it looked totally smooth and in an undefined environment was disturbing.
Maya isnt meant for 3d modeling. Thats like saying a 7 foot 2 nba center should be the point guard. Technically they can do it for a play or two, but its not their purpose
Is there a way to toggle the UI for individual models? Like if I open the blend file for one character it has the menu on the right with settings to toggle for outfits and expressions. I append the collection for another model and everything shows up fine, but I don't know how to see the menu for that model.

Apologies if this is a dumb question, I'm super new to this and I'm mostly using it to pose figures for drawing reference.
The panel on the right of the viewport?
You press "N". There's also a little tiny arrow sticking out that you can press. It's minuscule though, so it's easy to miss.
For practicing character sculpting and modeling, what do you guys use for reference sheets? Is there a good place to get lots of generic ones online without having to use fucking pinterest? Trying to find anything on Google is giving me infinite pinterest pages or straight up furry porn.
>just draw them yourself
If I could draw 2D I wouldn't be using a computer program to draw things using math tbqh.
buy a bunch of books, read them, then buy a half life sized skeleton model from amazon then buy anatomical muscle models used for medical students. Dont use a 2d piece of paper as your only reference ffs
Yeah, I've got that panel open, but it only has the stuff for the first model in the file I initially opened. When I add a second character model, none of the options for the second model show up in there. Even if I select the second model, it still only shows the options for the first one.
I'm talking about a reference image I can put into Blender and scale everything off of for blocking out
Are you selecting the mesh, or the actual armature?
Custom properties like that would be on the armature, I'd wager.
That's it, thanks for the help. Think I was selecting the whole thing before, but it does come up when I just select the armature.
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Can you guys explain to me why I can't have a proper UV unwrap? I've seen very straight forward UVs that are a just a face stretched out in a 2D plane, like when you turn the Earth globe into a map.
Instead, what I get is this stretched out monstruosity. I don't really get if it's good or bad UV unwrapping, but it seems off to be like this. Does it even matter? It seems to me that the option that I want will allow me for better texturing.
Show your model with the seams.
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Here you go. Thanks on advance.
nobody uvs a head like that. Absolute cringe
Sorry mate, I'm just an artist that went into 3D modelling and followed youtube videos and tutorials.
Maybe you could give some pointers instead of just mocking me.
learn how to uv properly
Nice quality, speaking as a layman
While you provided areas of improvement which is good you were also belittling to the not insignificant effort that went into the basic implementation he's already done.

Constructive criticism plz
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Fixed it without changing the seams. It was ez pz, pseud.
In Blender, I get awful artifacting when I subdivide a model if I cut an edge loop down the center line of my model and then duplicate > merge vertices (which I've been doing for hard surface modeling off of reference images). It's like the center line edge loop just breaks the subdivision and I get ugly peaking on vertices all along the center line.
Is there any way to avoid this or do I have to work off of a mirror modifier instead of duplicating and joining vertices to stop it?
Also dissolving the center loop fixes the peaking on one side of the model and transfers it all to the other side, try and explain that.
Pic rel is what happens if I dissolve that center loop
>duplicate > merge vertices
That mesh definitely isn't complete and you most likely messed up merging. First of all, enable scene statistics via right clicking your status bar at the bottom. Then go into x-ray, and box/lasso select only one of those vertices that is behaving weird with subdiv. Check the status bar to see how many vertices you actually selected; bet it's not just one. To fix this, select all vertices in edit mode, merge and SLOWLY increase merge radius until it unfucks your mesh.
It's not a problem with unmerged vertices, I've checked the center loop and a few edge loops where it artifacts badly. all verts are single verts.
Upload your file somewhere (catbox.moe)? Can't imagine such a simple thing fails, and I've seen deformation like this with subdiv before. It's usually edges not merged with the rest of the mesh.
recalculate normals?
you don't have a op with links or a pastebin?
give me a modern blender tutorial. I don't know shit
Yeah, your normals are fucked, preventing subdiv to work correctly. The topo itself is clean and you did indeed not mess up any duplicate vertices. Just go into edit mode -> A -> Shift-N and it fixed it for your mesh. I think when you duplicated geometry and moved it around, you confused the normals.
Ah okay, good to know. Have never needed to fuck with the normals during modeling before.
Btw, this gun grip is a prime example of why "working smart with the mirror modifier" would be a good idea. You would have just modeled one half of the grip and the other one would have been mirrored over to the other side, making it look the same, without the problem of messing up normals.
Well that's what I was doing, I worked off one side and then put in a loop cut, deleted the side I hadn't worked on, duplicated all and mirrored it before recombining. Didn't know that would fuck up the normals, never had that problem before until now. But I'll just use a mirror modifier from now on.
Uh.. not sure you're doing it correctly here, but maybe I'm just misunderstanding; Yes, you (ideally) loop cut through the middle and delete the side you don't want or haven't worked on, but you don't duplicate anything or recombine. Once you put the mirror modifier on it, you just select the correct axis to mirror on, and the modifier should automatically create the mesh on the other side. The only thing you need to make sure is proper is the object origin, enabling clipping, and nudging the middle loop cut so it actually connects (sometimes this fails).
What I'm saying is I've been doing it manually instead of making a mirror modifier, and apparently Blender doesn't handle that well.
In Blender, is there a tool or shortcut to arrange verts/lines/faces in line between two reference points?
Like if I have 2 verts on a diagonal and want to arrange any verts between them on a straight line.
You mean loop cuts?
Ctrl+R should do what you're saying.
I don't know how you even arrived at thinking loop cuts are what I'm talking about.
>I have 2 verts on a diagonal
You have a diagonal edge and you want a bunch of verts between them.

If not, seems easy enough to just add an edge between those two points, loopcut or subdivide to add points, then remove the edges leaving the points. Any two points you select and add an edge between will be a straight line.
You can flatten loops (it doesn't have to be an entire loop) by selecting what you wanna flatten then press S to scale x,y or z to set what axis you wanna flatten them against then press 0 and it'll flatten. Or get the looptools add on (it's on the settings)
Do sets and scenes sell better than individual items?
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how exactly do i learn to "practice"? it feels like ive gone through the motions of learning to make bodies, faces hair, etc over and over for the past few weeks but it doesnt feel like ive gotten anymore consistent beyond getting things to look human shaped
>how exactly do i learn to "practice"?
You pick a reference and try to get as close as possible to it, learning how to reach a realistic copy you created. And you put what you make online so others can rip it apart and tell you how bad you are until you've eliminated all, or at least most problems. <- This part is essential. Oh, and don't feel bad about that part, this is normal.
Here's my 2 cents: If you're aiming for realism, you have to put whatever you create into a realistic environment or you'll never notice how "bad" your model is and what it lacks. Start by either finding a good scene online and paste your model into it, or at least use an HDRI background with realistic lighting. Simply adding lights in blender with a non-existant background where materials change the color and angle of the light will never get you good results.
Some feedback on what I can see: Your model looks like you've smeared vaseline all over it - roughness/glossy is too uniform. Research what material roughness you need for your clothes and skin, then give the skin more detail to wash that filthy grease off. It's unrealistic to see skin and clothes shine like they're made from the same material. [spoiler]Also, brown is a bad color. ngmi[/spoiler]
The hands look like they're from a bear - way too big. The eyes look dead, that's where your glossy/roughness settings could shine.
Make the lower part of the hair not simply hang down but bend it a bit at the end (unless you were aiming for your reference). Also natural, clean, hair usually has shine to it, depending on the angle, unless it's really damaged.
IOR tables https://pixelandpoly.com/ior.html
Free HDRIs https://polyhaven.com/hdris
Theres a million and one tutorials, guides and textbooks out there, which ones are actually worth a damn to the beginner who intends to do everything themselves?
>It's me, I'm the beginner game dev
>How do I do everything?
Question unclear, dick stuck in ceiling fan.
Dude, you're not even sure what you want or need to do and what this would entail. First of all define this "everything" and form a meaningful question. Once you narrow that down, you already have leads on the topics you need to brush up on, and someone might even be able to recommend something to you.
Thanks for the help
>be aspiring smith in ye olden days
>dream of furnishing knights with masterwork armor and swords
>first day of apprenticeship
>make fucking nails all day
>do this for years before finally being trusted to make horseshoes
what's blender's equivalent of the nail?
and dont say the fucking donut
>What's 2+2, and don't you say 4.
where can i download a bunch of varied low poly 3d models to use in blender? I don't really care for quality, i need this for a 2d project that i'm gonna draw over >:D
Check the pastebin in the /wip/ OP. There should be a list of a fuckload of shit that could come in handy.
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every time I try to import a Magica Voxel .ply file into blender it crashes instantly, and the file size is only 1.53 MB
here's the file, if someone could test it out on theirs that'd be great

is it possible to pause and resume a render? like if I don't want to melt my pc overnight.
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how to do picrel? like elastic fabric on an object. idk how to describe it.
Hard surface modeling from reference. Doesn't require even the slightest bit of creative thought, you just have to learn to think in terms of 3D topology and learn how a lot of Blender's basic 3d layout and sculpting tools work. Then you can move into texturing, materials, non-deforming animation, etc.
I'm making a mecha moth now
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First time texturing anything, thought I'd try it out on this unfinished (slightly jank) WIP.
Is the swirling and stretching in the texture something I can do anything about, or just a byproduct of using materials in place of actual textures?
Oh, it's the handle guy. Hey there. The stretching on the model is determined by your UVs. You need to either unwrap differently, or at least manually adjust if you want a different outcome. Or play around with the automatic unwrap options, but those usually don't work well (projection could help, though). Also make sure scale is applied on everything. The distortion around the the cock is most likely due to uneven topology - too many vertices around a specific place make the subdiv modifier warp the normals a bit. The distortion around the barrel is most likely due to ngons, anything that isn't just tris or quads, but something where a lot of edges merge together.
>it's the handle guy
Ditch the rgb shit, will make your model automatically twice better
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Any idea why some of these materials end up with broken lighting when rendering? Gives the same problems on Cycles and EEVEE. I assume it's where I've fucked up the material shader somewhere, but the walls and towers have the same materials and some are broken and some aren't.
Normals are probably inverted on those sections.
I'd go into it, select everything and press ctrl+n to recalculate normals.
I've tried recalculating normals, seems to have no effect
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Any feedback or critique? It's my second sculpt/character I've made in blender.
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This is probably a stupid question but I've found no way to phrase it in google that didn't give me nothing but unrelated garbage.
This is one face, I want it to be 9 seperate faces (including the vertices inside the face that aren't a part of it), is there any automatised way to do this? I'd have expected Split Edges & Faces to do it, but it doesn't. All vertices are parallel.
who is that supposed to be kek
Didn't use any reference, just some random dude lol
Biggest protip is to get some references then. Either a specific character or just general anatomy references.
Why is it bad to use imagination?
What even is that question? References teach you to account for elements of anatomy like form and proportion that you wouldn't otherwise actively think about because we imagine people as pretty much monoliths unless trained otherwise. Learning to account for finer details of anatomy will allow you to not just make more realistic and believable sculpts, but also give you real touchpoints to jump off of for stylizing your sculpts.
You can't imagine your way into a more complete sculpt, your imagination doesn't store data more accurately than real life.
I cant find good tutorials for feet.
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Hmmm. Not sure then. Maybe it's something stupid like you have vertex colors or something on it.
What does your material nodes look like? You probably don't have anything wild going on, but it might help to look.
It might also help to look at one of the fucked up towers in edit mode with the normals overlay on. Just in case they ARE inverted, but recalculating didn't fix it.

It's not "bad" to use your imagination, but using reference helps reinforce your imagination. It fills in those blank spots where your mind is just like "I'm imagining a face", and makes it more concrete and tangible. Like sure, you know what a face looks like, but do you really? It's that kinda thing.
Knowing and seeing are two different things. It's the difference between feeling things out in a sculpt/drawing until it starts to resemble what you want to make, and actually making the thing you're wanting to make.
>Just in case they ARE inverted, but recalculating didn't fix it.
Yup this is it, figured it out with the normals overlay. Thanks.
Wait, actually, I spoke too soon. Fixed all the janked normals but that isn't fixing the actual lighting problems so I assume it's a problem with the materials themselves. Pic rel is an example of one of the borked mats.
Get rid of the displacement texture.
If you don't have adaptive subdiv on, I can guarantee you that's what's causing your issues.
If you want to use the disp texture, plug it into a bump node, and plug that into the normal of your BSDF. There'll be an input on the bump node that you can plug your normal map into to use both.
I don't think you can directly plug the normal map into the normal node and get correct results, you put it through a normal map node first (unless they changed it since I last tried it)
I'll look into both of these tomorrow. I think it is the missing normal map node bugging it because I suddenly remember that being a thing I need to. Cheers.
Good luck.
I just checked to confirm, and in Blender 4.0, if you plug a tangent space normal map directly into the normal socket then it won't be correctly transformed to the surface's tangent space, essentially it will be like every face has the same normals.
Putting it through a normal map node fixes it
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Help a newfag please, so I've run a cloth simulation to the point where I like, how do I save the object with the new shape, I've not found any guide on how to do this
Ideally you duplicate the object to keep the simulation, in case you still need to adjust it later on, then just apply the cloth simulation modifer on the duplicated object. Or if that somehow fails, you just go into edit mode, duplicate the whole mesh and separate it into a new object.
Thanks anon, good advice
Do they have normal maps?
Did I capture my wife
I think you're almost there. She has very sharp facial features but yours seem much more soft, especially the lips
I unironically can't follow the donut tutorial it's too hard. I will look elsewhere
I'm trying to have the glare node only apply to an object in the foreground in Blender, is there any way to do this?
Hope she lives long and prospers.
Look in to how to use the cryptomatte. Once you figure it out, it'll be your new compositor best friend.
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3rd project ever besides THE DONUT and a glass of liquid with ice.
its a lab with geometry-node visualizers and FL studio gameviz exports im making on the screens/monitors.
ANY advice???
>ANY advice???
Do more with your screens than a texture you made in MS paint (though I'm guessing that's where you're putting the visualizers). Some glossiness and reflections on them wouldn't hurt either.

I won't comment too much on your modelling skill, since you're new at it and will improve, but the whole scene just seems very flat and without lighting. Even though there *is* lighting/shadows.
You could also think about composing your shot a little better. Attention is pulled between the tube in the center, and the big screen.
Pick one important subject that you want your viewer's attention to focus on, and compose your shot around that. So that when someone looks at it, their eye is immediately drawn towards it. Then use composition tricks like leading lines, contrast, color, etc. to lead the viewer's eye from that initial subject to other things in the scene you find important. From there, you can keep guiding the viewer's eye anywhere you want.

Obviously you don't have to go all out since you're just starting, but good composition is something to keep in mind and strive for in the future. Composition puts you in control of what the viewer looks at, and keeps them from getting lost, trapped in busy sections of your image/scene, and lets you decide how and in what order the viewer engages with elements of your scene.
Learn what emission is and apply that to your screens. Then make sure they actually emit light, either by adding lights where the panels/screens are, or fixing your texture to emit light for you.
Your main screen has a reflection on it which makes it look like there's light shining ONTO it, but not FROM it. It should be the other way around, mainly because there's no light emitter visible.
tldr fix your lighting/add more lights.
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thanks i was trying to figure out a lighting source on those planes, Ill look into that thank you

yes the random colors are placeholders for the vizualizers im making or some textures that will be responsive in geometry-node/graph timeline automation. I havent figure out the lighting i want but the room is setup to be viewed towards the large wall monitor and the camera track is left/right swaying to give a simple scope of the room, I will research how to composite the scene and techniques thanks

here is my 2nd ever thing for the /beg posts
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first attempt modeling something purely from reference instead of just following a yt vid. still followed some vids for the textures though, really need to sit down and learn nodes for textures because that shit is pretty cool.
r8 it and h8 it, would love feedback of any kind.
>really need to sit down and learn nodes for textures
Unless you're going for procedural materials, it's not too big a deal to just learn the "tip of the iceberg" when it comes to nodes. Learning how to apply PBR textures, some basic masks, and you're pretty much set.

That being said, learning the extra stuff is pretty handy. Either for when you don't want to use textures to save on VRAM, or situations where a procedural material makes more sense. Not to mention throwing on some noise and stuff onto existing textures is a great way to break up tiling and repetition.

Still, nice knife. Modelling isn't half bad. Good job, keep it up!
hey thanks man I'll keep that in mind. i do like the procedural shit, I think it makes it a bit more SOVLful rather than just downloading something and slapping it in. but i'm a retard so what do I know kek

unrelated but do you know how to adjust perspective or turn it off or whatever the word is for it? want to do an optical illusion for the next one but no idea how to go about it
Personally, I think bad procedurals just look bad, rather than "soul", but you do you.
For your other thing, in your camera's settings, you can change between perspective, panoramic, and orthographic. Orthographic is the one you're looking for. Use the scale value that shows up to adjust how much of the camera the scene takes up.
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thanks fren
gonna take a stab at this, always loved mc escher shit and the creative ways people have made it into sculptures using tricky perspective and all that. idk if orthographic will be helpful for this but I'll give it a shot as well as with normal perspective. still have some other ideas in mind. gonna try to animate the water flow somehow, a fun challenge for sure
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Yeah no problemo. I was pretty obsessed with optical illusions and shit too when I was younger. I used to have all kinds of books and stuff with them.
If orthographic mode doesn't work out, you'll probably do well to know about "forced perspective" techniques and how to pull them off. They can be done in-camera IRL (the LotR films are a great example of this in action), but they're easy enough to pull off in 3d, and even easier since you can cheat geometry to make a shot look exactly how you want (kinda like pic related).
It's not only handy for optical illusions, but has a bunch of practical uses when composing shots in 3d as well.
Can I get a reality check over here?
I just got into 3D because I want to make game assets for my envisioned boomer shooter. The idea is to make a low-poly game in vein of Quake I or Dusk, so I checked what needs to be done to do it. Because I'm a freetard on Linux I first checked if it is possible to use open source programs to do it and to my surprise "it appears" to be possible, Blender seems to be better than I remember 10 years ago, Krita also seems fine, for texture painting I found ArmorPaint, TrenchBroom for level design and for game engine there is Godot. Thankfully I'm not starting from zero because I'm a software developer and I do drawing/painting as hobby, but still I have almost no idea what I need to learn and how much effort will it take me. For game assets I know I need to:
- model
- texture the model
- animate the characters
- design the maps
Then I can actually import all that in Godot, compose it and start actually coding. How much time would it take for me to learn and produce something usable assuming I regularly devote time? A year or two, more?

Very useful thanks!
honest reality check? probably longer if you're holding down a job as well, 90s id would have had maybe 20 people on the games and it took them a couple of years to get them out. things are quicker now with better tools and faster pcs but you're trying to do the job of 20 people and these full 3d games do take some doing

if i were you as a lone gunman, i would design the levels and code the game first. worry about the art last, i think if you are experienced at dev but not an artist then you might find yourself burning out because you get stuck sometimes on the hard part (the art) and want to keep revising what you did at the start as you get better. that is a recipe for getting in a cycle that means an unifinished game, very common with hobbyists

on the plus side, if you think about it in the 90s most 3d artists would have only had six months or a years experience before they got to making the games since the technology was brand new. so once you get to that point you'll make headway faster

if you want to sell the game at some point you will have to start the art though, cos the horrible thing about games is it's the game that really matters, but the look catches peoples attention lol
>i would design the levels and code the game first. worry about the art last,
this wont work
just use placeholder assets
it doesnt work that way...you have to know what exactly assets you are using that will give you the performance that you need, and on what system specs....you cant just design for example Street Fighter 7 with static image planes and no animations and expect yourself to be able to write and figure out the logic just by looking at static image planes, its just not going to work. Same with any other game. Hell, I can guarantee this just produces slop that loses a lot of money
no dude he's making an indie boomer shooter. it would run on a toaster anyway.
anyway sorry to pull rank but i've been making games for ten years in small teams, this is how it's done. you set your coders off using placeholder assets while the artists are going along side doing what you described. but if you're only one dude and you can't do art yet, remember your game is more important than your art.
go ahead and school me on how you can completely finish the code and create Tekken 9 or Street Fighter 7 with the code first with zero artwork
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idk much about fluids yet, i get the impression it's too big to make a simulation for the whole thing because it won't give me anything unless I scale the domain down. would it be better to scale the whole model down to fit in a smaller area? or should I just abandon the animation idea and make it a still shot
Thanks for advice, but I think I'll stick to learning Blender, because I'm already on it and I think it's actually the most useful thing right now. I don't know any 3D so it would be difficult to create good levels or code if I don't have any "feel" for it.
I do think the organization of your company makes sense, but that's because people are specialized and have necessary experience.
Anyway, I think I'll take it slow and steady.

On related note, can do you recommend any book/video/article for 3D fundamentals? Something that isn't needlessly detailed and explains the concepts. The doughnut tutorial is cool, but the BlenderGuru is not really explaining the fundamentals.
is there anything to model with beyond polygon mesh, nurbs, and bezier curves
Don't even bother with fluid sims. They're a broken mess and a good way to waste several hours with zero results.

Just fake the waterfall. This is one of those cases where procedurals shines. Make a vaguely waterfall shaped plane, take a noise texture, and use that with a bump node to distort it to look like water, and then just animate the mapping node's location (X Y or Z depending on how things are set up), to make it flow. Throw in some mist or something with another cube with volume scatter with some noise driving the density as well.
If you really wanna go with fluids though, you're just gonna have to up the resolution, not the domain. Then fuck around with it for hours until you maybe arrive with what you need.
Really, I just don't think sims are worth it. Smoke sims are alright on occasion, but fluid is half-baked in Blender.
thats actually really smart, fuck
thanks again I'll get to work on it.
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gonna move the 'seam' to the bend so I can hide it with a pillar and fuck with the waterfall itself some more tomorrow. also just noticed the camera is slightly off center, need to fix that so the illusion doesn't fall apart. cool shit though, loving this program.
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Lookin good.
You can get the water to follow the stream by doing something similar to this. Where you lay out all of the bends flat on a UV, and do the same thing you did with the waterfall. So that when you animate the noise on one axis, it'll go down all of the turns since in the UV they're all flat.
There's some weird bulging sections on my UV layout, as I did a little bit to ease the transition around the corners.
ahh shit you keep blowing my mind with new things anon
>and do the same thing you did with the waterfall
what did I do with the waterfall? it looks like shit imo, the texture is all stretched out. although I suppose I can excuse all jank by saying it's a work in progress kek
>what did I do with the waterfall?
You animated one of the XYZ coordinates of the mapping node, yeah? This is the same thing, just on the scale of your whole stream. Only difference is you have to unwrap it into a straight line.
You can also adjust the stretching in the UV layout and fix things as needed.

>I suppose I can excuse all jank by saying it's a work in progress kek
Well you're also just starting out, so it's all good in the sake of learning.
did that, can't make the texture follow the path though, still looks like it did before. copied your bulges and all that. never fucked with uv shit before, what am I missing?
nvm i think i figured it out
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not really a beg but i want help with toon shading for the character. currently using the basic diffuse toon shader but it does not really fit with the rest of the scene. any tutorials or color advice? guy is a post man hence brown/khaki colors
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forgot to change from agx to standard color
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pillars really bring it all together imo
the water is still fucky around the corners I need to tinker with it some more to look like >>974496
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Are you using the "UV" socket from the texture coordinate node? It won't use it if you have something like "object" or "generated".
You also have to figure out which axis to animate. Depending on how your UV layout is rotated, it'll either be the X or Y value of the location you have to anim.

Yeah the pillars are really starting to get that illusion going.
>the water is still fucky around the corners
Yeah I had that issue too, webm related is how I solved it. Make your 90 degree corners like usual, but add a bit of a curve inside it for the water to follow. Then unwrap, select one of the square faces in the UV view, select all, then unwrap using "follow active quads". It should lay it out flat like this (though you may have to adjust the little pointy bit by hand).
After that, you can use a subsurf modifier to smooth out the transition (that's what really gets it working), and then hide the bend inside the walls of the channel.

For the record, I don't have the start and end points split into tris, they're just regular quads, but the wireframe shader splits them into tris.
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Pic related is how I had the water set up btw. It's pretty shitty, but it's for demo purposes. The "value" node just has "#frame" written inside of it, which matches the value to the current frame for ez animation. Throw in a multiply after that to adjust the speed.

Might help to adjust the X or Y size of the mapping node to stretch the water a bit to make it look more like it's flowing. And you can also change the noise to 4d, and animate the "W" value using the same method above with the "#frame" and multiply. To give the water a bit of slow change.
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ah wish I saw this earlier kek
definitely gonna try copying the frame thing, would definitely make it easier.
as far as the fuckyness goes, the pillars and camera angle actually hide it really well. gonna see if I can get a good screenshot of it to post because it's kinda weird and not like what you posted. idk how to explain it

need to put decorations on top of the pillars to complete the look and fuck with the lighting now. the waterfall looks a little weird because it's just kinda floating there and doesn't have the channel to affect the lighting like the rest of the stream. then add splashes and pretty it all up and I've got myself a neat little illusion. something so satisfying about this, I enjoy it quite a bit. more productive than rotting my brain out with vidya all day at least
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the water:
just weirdly distorted along those two lines, idk what's happening there. I'm assuming I fucked up somewhere doing uv stuff
Sorry if this is the wrong thread in advance
I've been using Blender for a bit of time now and I think I have a unique personal style and decent technical skill, how do I get more people to see my work? I do a lot of abstract ish motion graphics/stills with typographical elements and would love to work with artists/musicians/etc.
You can visualize the UVs with a color ramp, there should be a smoothly increasing gradient along the path.
If there isn't, your uvs are broken
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Yeah it's gettin there. It might just be the res, but the corners aren't too bad in yours.
Another tip I can offer is to adjust the UV for the waterfall section. Depending on how you stretch/shrink it you can make the water move faster or slower. Might be neat to also adjust the UVs for the section leading up to it, so you can make it look like the water is speeding up for the waterfall.

If you look at this example, the selected faces is the downward section of the waterfall. I've shrunk it and brought it up to stretch the UVs to make the ripples flow faster in that section (I also stretched it a bit on the X axis to even it out a bit). Using proportional editing, I also nudged up the other areas so the change is more gradual. So it's slower at the start, but looks like the water is speeding up a bit.

I'm assuming you already post on Instagram and Twitter? If not, start there. Be aware, I think you can only use 4 tags on Twitter before a post gets silently buried to where it shows up less often in people's feeds. Instagram I think is 30, but I don't think it has any impact on visibility there.
Might also drum up some interest posting on R*ddit using faggy titles and stuff.
I post on instagram a few times a week, might give twitter and r*ddit a shot
retard question but how do people record those timelapse vids on youtube? is it just sped up obs footage or is there a specialized program for that
I record my screen and speed it up after, not sure if there's a better way but it works
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lighting still isn't exactly where I want it but I'll fuck with it before putting it on the socials. too dark in the back did a sphere with a displace modifier and voronoi texture that follows an empty to make the splash.
overall this the most fun project I've done thus far and I learned a lot. big thanks to the kind anon who shared their wisdom, I owe ya one
also realizing splash is way too fast, the speed of the empty got doubled for some reason but fixed it
I'm not terribly experienced so take what I say with a grain of salt, but your light source seems to be at a bit of a shallow angle considering the time of day, and I think the absence of shadows in the rest of the piece plus the shading of the flowers is making him look out of place. That and he doesn't appear to be casting shadows on the ground, although that could just be the angle.
Hey not bad! The illusion works really well!
The splash at the bottom is a nice touch, props for going on your own to do that.

I think your stream is a bit inconsistent with it's speed, however. It's fast at the start near the pool, but slows down as it gets closer to the waterfall. I think it should be the other way around. As mentioned previously, you can adjust the speed of the different parts of the stream by changing the size of those sections on your UV layout. In your case, assuming you have the UVs arranged vertically, to make the parts slower, you'd make them longer on the UV view to cover more area (and optionally wider if the water gets too stretched). If you have them horizontally, it'd just be the opposite: wider/narrower to make faster/slower, taller/shorter to fix stretching.

But yeah, good project to learn from! Happy to help.
yeah UV stuff is by far the most difficult thing for me to understand so far and eventually I just kinda gave up and accepted what I already had. gonna mess with it some more on my own and come up with another project that specifically forces me to learn more about them. maybe a nice normal river this time that follows the laws of physics lol. gonna keep the waterfall in the back pocket though, this is definitely something that I'm gonna come back to and refine as I learn more over time. thanks again man really appreciate your help. definitely gonna lurk and post here again, probably the first time in my 15 years in this hellhole of a site that an anon was actually helpful for once kek
any recommendations for youtube shit to check out to learn basic sculpting in blender?
Yeah once you get a handle on UVs there's all kinds of cool shit you can do with them. Like shit that's different than basic texturing. It's just something you'll pick up naturally (should, anyway) by doing different projects. I think a lot of how I learned it was just trying to find ways to make effects "cheaper", since I didn't have a powerful computer at the time, so I learned a lot of fakery and tricks to try and pull things off.

But yeah, doing a river might be a good fluid sim exercise if you're set on learning that. A quick trick for fluid sims is to just sim like the upper part of the sim, since it's just gonna be assumed that the bottom has water in it anyway. So you'd just make the bottom of the domain a few feet deep, into the "river" and then sim that.

And if you run into trouble that you can't find a solution for elsewhere, just ask here. That's what the thread's for after all.
oh i meant a river with texture water to get better with the uvs to control speed and flow and all that i dont really give a shit about fluid sim lol it was just my initial idea with the waterfall because I didn't realize you could animate textures like that. looking back on my previous experiments with fluids it definitely saved me a lot of time and grief here

>I think a lot of how I learned it was just trying to find ways to make effects "cheaper", since I didn't have a powerful computer at the time, so I learned a lot of fakery and tricks to try and pull things off.
that's how I've learned with other things and it truly is an effective strat. it may seem counterintuitive at a glance but in many cases learning shortcuts often provides a deeper understanding of the system itself and allows you to approach problems with a different perspective.
yeah i tried to figure out the reason but getting shadows on the grass is confusing as hell. i assume there is some option that i turned on or the shader itself is in a wrong order
the water is bending in the angle because you plugged the uv information from the tex coord node?
Ah, carry on then.
>learning shortcuts often provides a deeper understanding
Definitely makes you think harder than "brute forcing" it with powerful hardware.

>the water is bending in the angle because you plugged the uv information from the tex coord node?
More or less, yeah. The bit at the bottom shows how the UV is laid out. Instead of it copying the bend of the actual mesh, it's flattened out into a straight line. What this means is that when you animate the texture (in my case, animating the X loc of the mapping node), it'll follow that straight line. But since the actual mesh is curved, it'll just follow the curve.
If I had used Object or Generated coordinates, the water would just be a flat texture moving in one direction uniformly. The exact same as if you had just unwrapped the mesh and kept the 90 degree bend.
ok one last thing and I'll stop pestering you
is there a way to make it cleanly loop?
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>is there a way to make it cleanly loop?
I have a node group that I made a few years ago that does it. I've got no memory of how it works under the hood mathwise though.
Here's a catbox link with a .blend of the nodegroup.

Just toss it after your mapping node, and before your texture.
Tile count controls whereabouts the texture is repeated
XYZ are the controls to animate it. As the labels say, they loop at the tile count. So once the value matches the number of the tile count, it loops. So for example, if you set the tile count to "2", every interval of 2 would be a repeat/loop (2,4,6,8,10...).
If you were to animate the X axis for example (tile count at 2), you'd set a keyframe with a value of zero on your start frame, and another keyframe with a value of 2 (or some interval of 2) on your end frame.

Lastly, a little looping tip, is to set up your start and end frames (let's say frame 100-200), and then render out one frame less. So instead of rendering frames 100-200, you'd render 100-199. This will make the loop perfectly seamless, since if you did 100-200, the start and end frames would be the exact same. So you'd have 2 duplicate frames in the anim that causes a little hitch. Chopping off a frame at the start or end fixes that.
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why is google being retarded

what color should I be aiming for here? far as I can tell green = bad and stretched? idk.
actually further testing tells me I may be wrong. just trying to clean out the weird edges as seen in >>974604 because they've made a return (although less pronounced) and pretty sure I fucked up unwrapping it somewhere. I'll be 100% honest with you bros I'm completely lost
Don't worry too much about stretching. Unless it's like how it looks at the very edges of your mesh where it's clearly stretched, people aren't gonna know, notice, or care.
I'd just unwrap that whole thing using follow active quads. Just square off one of the UV faces, select it, select all, and unwrap in UV view with the follow active quads to square the rest of them up.
That should get everything pretty uniform.
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i've been relearning blender since not using it for years and rigged this bionicle model for a personal project. just did a run cycle test, still learning shaders and how to properly light scenes but im just glad my janky ass rig seems to work for what i'll need it to do kek
that did it, thanks. why did it come out all fucky last time I tried to follow active quads? everything came out distorted I guess I have to make it a square first? this was just a plane (more or less), does that apply to more complex objects?
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idk if it will come through with the webm quality... way less pronounced than before but can still kinda see where the edges are. should I subdivide or add more edges or something? maybe I'll just put a rock or branch or something there to hide it
Yeah for active quads to work it has to be squared off. You're kinda telling Blender "look at this face, I want all the rest of the faces to be unwrapped like this". If the face you select is fucky, then the rest will follow suit.
>does that apply to more complex objects?
Abso-fuckin-lutely. Follow active quads is magic when you need UVs to be "human readable". For organic shapes, you might get some stretching issues if you're really pushing it, but for blocky shapes it's great. Works in a pinch when you don't wanna bother with seams. Though using seams is obviously better for complex objects. Still, it's a good trick for when the unwrap is a bit wonky even when you're using seams, and you'd like them squared off for ez texturing.

>still kinda see where the edges are
Yeah it's probably because you're using a lower poly mesh, and the faces are being split into tris. Something I noticed happening in the last little project when I was sending webms.
You can see it in >>974496 if you look at the corners.
I fixed it by just giving it more geo to work with by subdividing. Which is what the second example shows in >>974597 There's some pinching on the inside corner, but there's gonna be something when you're making a texture go around a right angle bend like that. For your river though, subdiv should fix the issue completely.
yeah that fixed it. god it's so obvious looking back at it sorry for the retard question. at least we're in bump limit so I'm not spamming the board kek
Good to hear that fixed it.
>sorry for the retard question
No worries. It's the beginner thread after all. As long as you learn something from it, there's no retarded questions.
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oh yeah it's all coming together now, shit aint so bad
looks way better. wish I subdivided the waterfall shit too but oh well. I'll go back to it sometime later.
S0VL !!!
am i gonna get shit for posting my trash on artstation or is that only for actually good artists
also to build off of this, the river slime is on an empty that follows a curve, how can I make only the rotation of the other slime to follow that same empty such that it looks like he's turning to watch him float along. does that make sense? I've tried explaining this in multiple ways to google but I can't quite seem to get what I'm looking for. if all else fails it's easy enough to just do it manually i guess
if you post to artstation the only thing that is going to happen is you will get scraped by multiple AIs.
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nvm figured it out
Literally nobody interacts on Artstation. You're fine. Everybody there is in it for themselves, it's an extremely selfish place.
Not in the sense that people are going to tear you down to get rid of competition, but simply because the people posting there aren't looking to engage with other artists they're just there to further their own (minuscule) chances of getting hired, or jerk themselves off if they've already been hired.

If that ain't a big deal though, go for it. If you're looking for feedback though, AS isn't really the place to post.
>If you're looking for feedback though, AS isn't really the place to post.
where then? already on yt and twitter, that good enough?

dont really give a shit lol, if some techbro wants to use my slop to train their slop then it would probably be worse for them than it would be for me
>where then? already on yt and twitter, that good enough?
post on discord.
any good ones?
just look around
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i try to learn low poly
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trying to make grass, not 100% sold on this method with the hair stuff. is there a way to randomize the height? slid every slider I could find and got nothing. looks weird. also is there a way to only make it show up on certain parts of the plane? it's in the mud and it looks wrong. maybe I'll rewatch the donut video with the sprinkles tomorrow, i recall something similar to that
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>where then? already on yt and twitter, that good enough?
For feedback? Fuck if I know. There's a reason I'm still here. This is the only place for feedback that won't just be people trying to jerk you off or trying to be critical without hurting your feelings.
I guess you could also post on the site you can't post here that begins with "R" (and ends with "eddit"), or somewhere like Blender Artists, but they're a bit more likely to pull punches. Mentioning Discord here is bound to attract schizos that lose their shit any time it's mentioned, but like the other anon said, I guess it could be an alright place for it if you can find one.

I think people have moved onto Geo Nodes for that shit, but that might be a bit of a nightmare for you to tackle right now.
>is there a way to randomize the height?
If you go into the texture settings for the particles, and add a new one, you should be able to use a cloud texture or similar to influence the velocity of the hair particles (which should change their height). Just make sure you have the "advanced" checkbox ticked.

>is there a way to only make it show up on certain parts of the plane?
That's what the vertex groups section is for (the density one specifically). You can use that to say where to put them. Either by doing an "on/off" type deal by weighting them 0 or 1, or by weight painting them to be a smooth gradient. Then using that same group to influence the length of the hair particles. The little <==> icon near the groups will invert the selection if it's wrong.

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