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Old thread: >>9468988
Image source: http://kaikousaku.tumblr.com/post/125606858258
Resin, clay crafts, decoden, fiber arts, etc, all welcome
Self-posting is encouraged
Last thread:
>soapmaking
>why are art resins not a 1:1 mix ratio
>smelly UV resin
>why is resin a girly hobby
>#galagulls is the new instagram tag
>no-name chinese UV resin
>>
I dont really know if there is anything to this or not, but I figured I'd get an answer here.

Whenever I watch UV resin videos, a lot of them tend to have a flap of paper over the UV lamp front. Is there a particular reason for this?
>>
I didnt realise the old thread had saged and replied there. I'm going to repost this regarding 1:1 ratio's here so it doesnt get lost

>>9552269

Usually if they're industrial, they can end up being used for rooftops (My dad works in rooflining and has huge cannisters of the stuff) which is amazing if you want to do a resin piece for cosplay that will just be covered with paint. It can go off in mere minutes.

Think about it, how many posts do we get here or even on youtube of crafters complaining that their resin never setting? A lot of the time its because the resin is off or they cocked up mixing the ratios, and that is not something you want with something which needs to cure quickly and you know, actually go off.
My dad can lay down the resin on a hot day, barely spread it across the flat roof he's working on, and the stuff from the start is already cured and ready for a top coat. So if he's sent on a job when its absolutely baking, he will decline to do it otherwise it can warp, crack, or just cure in the tub before he can get it down.
So with that in mind, we crafters spend a lot more time messing around getting everything just so and need that extra curing time.

Hope this helps!
>>
>>9557289
UV light from lamps hurts my eyes and gives me a headache so it could be that. Or maybe they do it because it fucks with the light levels on the video.
>>
>>9557289
Possibly to stop skin exposure to the UV, could be a filter not just paper. If you're working with it all day long you risk damaging your skin.

This is just a guess though.
>>
So has anyone made anything from the molds in this mook?
>>
>>9557586
What book is that? I'm going to try it and test it out for everyone.
>>
>>9557289
My lamp hurts my eyes, and I have a 1ftx1ft sqaure of mirror that I use to block off the entrance to keep the light inside the lamp. The extra mirrr might help it cure a bit more evenly too
>>
>>9557586

Won't have the time to make anything for a month yet, sadly. I can answer questions if you want?
>>
>>9558284
Would you happen to have any translations? I expected the book to have Otome no Sewing type tutorials, but was surprised there's way more text than images. Ofc I have seen a ton of Youtube tutorials for similar things, but still I was wondering if there is any new interesting or useful information in there.
>>
>>9557586
I haven't yet. I'm frankly disappointed in the mold. I thought it would be silicone but instead it's a thin plastic.
>>
>>9559685

My Japanese isn't good enough to translate all the instructions, if that's what you're asking. I'm going slowly on individual recipes to see what the instructions are. If you post a small, specific part I could probably try and figure that out slowly.

I'm not really sure what's new that you haven't seen on youtube. I think if you can identify every single material and every single step on pages 19-29 then you've probably seen it all before (just to confirm, none of this stuff is polymer clay, which explains why they can get away with a cheap thin plastic mold).

For me personally it's the first time I've seen anything on oyumaru, although I think I received it as a freebie from a taobao shop, so it must have been around for a while. Dying/painting styrene beads with acrylic is an interesting move, too. I also noticed that she's using fuwa fuwa puffy to make the backs of the bears -- the mold is flat, but the material puffs up, so that's how she's creating bears that look fully molded instead of one-sided. Then she dips them/covers them in Modena paste -- another move I'm surprised by, as I understand fuwafuwa puffy to be quite squishy and Modena clay not so much. But I guess it's not quite the same as a hollow object, so the Modena is still less likely to break? idk.
>>
>>9559820
Can you tell me what they call the hairties with a metal disk on them so I can find some?
>>
>>9559872

丸皿つきヘアゴム? It translates to "hair tie/ elastic with round base"
>>
>>9559820
Thank you for doing this!

Which material is being used on page 27? It looks like resin but they seem to mold and mix it like clay?

What kind of material is being used as the candy wrapper in the first two tutorials on page 42? Is it just regular wrappers? How do they get the candy piece in it.

Thanks so much.
>>
>>9559689
Also disappointed with the mold as I really like to work with clay. Someone mentioned recasting into a silicone mold so i may just do that.
>>
>>9560929

Page 27: That's the oyumaru! Sadly I'm not able to find out what it's called in English or Chinese. Really is a new material to me, sorry. おゆまる works if you want to buy it from Rakuten or amazon jp or look up youtube vids (in Japanese).

It seems to be some kind of heat plastic. In case you can't see it, there's a hot plate included in the tools (the thing that looks like a casserole dish on the previous page is labeled a hotplate). The instructions say to lay a piece of cooking paper over the hot plate, put down a silicon cupcake mold with the oyumaru pieces cut to 1/6, then heat it up to 90 degrees. Then place that into another silicon cupcake mold so you can hold it and knead it, I guess. The white cream is made with clear oyumaru and a "pinch" of white oil pastel.

There's some extra stuff about taking it in and out of the hotplate if you need to make it softer, or cooling it with cold water if you want to harden it. Personally I'd check how soft it is before trying to squish it into the thin plastic mold.

Page 42: Yes, it is just wrappers, haha. The supplies listed on Page 30 is "food bags of various kinds". Just a note that if you have a Daiso near you they do sell cute food wrappers, ribbnos, etc, or you can get them off taobao.

The first candy (left) says to cut up the wrapper to size, then use cellotape to seal left and right.

The second candy (middle) uses a bag sealer after you've inserted the candy to seal the bags, then the edges are cut with pinking shears. There's some shenanigans with how the jump ring is attached after that, if you're interested I'll take another look after I get off work.
>>
>>9561043

Page 42, continuing how to get the sour "candy" into the wrapper.

(Instructions 1 and 2 are how to make the candy)

3. Insert the candy into a corner of the food bag. Seal the open side and the top with a sealer*. Once the sealing is complete use pinking scissors to cut outside the seal (do not cut through the seal), leaving a 5mm margin.

4. Use a one-hole punch to punch a hole in the upper right, inside the sealed area, then install an eyelet on this hole. Thinly paint UV resin around the eyelet fitting, radiate for 2 minutes to set.
Repeat this on the concealed surface. **

5. Install a round jump ring and keychain fittings.

Notes:

*Sealer: plastic bag sealer, this refers to a gadget that heats up plastic bags in between two heated surfaces and seals them. Note that a lot of these kinds of gadgets also automatically cut the plastic where it's sealed, I'm not sure what she's using where it seals the plastic but apparently doesn't cut it off.

**By "concealed surface" I assume she means the other side.

Other comments: I'm somewhat confused how the packet ended up being wavy on all four sides despite only being pinked on two sides, just assuming she started out with a bag that has pinked edges.
>>
>>9561043
>>9561598
Thank you so much for this!!

Very interesting about the new material, I will have to get in on that.
>>
>>9561598
So that's what that weird transparent thing I see all the Japanese crafters sticking and water and sculpting
>>
>yesterday
>shaving down the lip of a small resin piece, as you do
>knife slips and i cut deep into my hand
It's a narrow but deep cut, like a puncture wound, but it's right on the fleshy part on my thumb and it's really slowing me down because it hurts like a deep bruise
Should I be wearing gloves? I have really small hands like child sized, and I'm worried about losing dexterity when wearing gloves or slicing right though them
>>
>>9562079
turns out you can just put words in any order you want
>>
>>9562085
maybe try a thimble?
>>
>>9561598
Miniaturesweet posted a tutorial similar to what the craft book has if anyone's interested: https://youtu.be/quS14q03Wms

Seems like the general steps are the same.
>>
>>9562085
Look for small cut resistant gloves. They're like $9 on Amazon.
>>
>>9562079

Yeah, I think the new thing from the book is how to use dry heat from a hot plate to mix two colours together. Because I imagine two wet blocks to get a bit weird when you try and get an even colour mix out of them.
>>
>>9562085
may I recommend using a side cutter next time?
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74035-Sharp-Pointed-Cutter/dp/B0131XZ92G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500144694&sr=8-4&keywords=side+cutter+Tamiya
they are traditionally used in plastic model making but I have found they are magic for trimming resin (also ripping out spillage. ect)
>>
>>9562085

Keep a close eye on it. I've seen deep cuts like this turn into massive infections because they have nowhere else to go in a small, deep space. If it starts hurting even more or if there is more redness and hardness around your thumb, go see a doctor right away.

A tetanus wouldn't hurt either if you're more than five years away. I know you probably don't leave your knife in dirt, but you never know these days.
>>
Sort of unrelated question but I figured this is the best place to ask - I'm casting fine parts using silicone masters made from Oomoo 30 and the resin that came in the pack cures too quickly; due to the heat where I live it basically starts setting up in the mixing pot and despite being "low viscosity" it's already thickening as I pour it into the mold. Does anyone have any suggestions I could use instead? It HAS to be as low-viscosity as possible because the details I'm trying to get are sub-millimetre in size. I'm planning to get a pressure pot so I can de-bubble it while it cures, as well.
>>
>>9564510

Use less activator?
>>
Does all polyester resin smell god awful? I just did my first two practice pieces today because I'm interested in resin craft but holy shit the smell. I'll also add I did them in the garage with good ventilation but no respirator, just a thick scarf over my face. I learned my lesson already, despite my boyfriend saying he had no problem when he did resin a year or so ago. I'm going to be buying one before I do another one, will that help the fume smell?

Does UV or epoxy resin have the same issues? I'm interested in UV resin but it seems far more expensive, especially those Japanese brands.
>>
>>9564928

Yup, all polyester reeks, and UV also apparently stinks too. I use it (poly) exclusively (again, outside in a garage) and as much as you may not believe me, you do get used to it. The first time I caught a whiff of the stuff I thought it was awful but now I'm used to it and its like it isnt even there at all.
Despite that it does have the massive pro in the fact that you almost never get air bubbles unless you do something really stupid. All of my pieces are completely flawless without need of a lighter or heat tool like you see other crafters. Also I have pieces a few years old and none of them have yellowed at all and look like they were just pulled from the mold and you dont get the issue of pieces never curing properly because the ratios of activator is way more forgiving. I always just eyeball the amounts I put in according to how much resin is in my cup and never had a problem. Seriously I see people weighing theirs out and measuring meticulously, and then there's me squirting in however much I think will do.
If it feels a bit tacky I just drop the molds on the ground outside on a sunny day and let it finish cooking off there.

The downside is that you cant get away with certain things being put into the resin so always test with something you dont care about as much first. Caviar beads are usually stripped of their colour and turn a yucky colour and I havent even tried things like actual sugar sprinkles.
As much as people now look down on food colouring nowadays, it doesnt incorporate into the resin at all.

Hope this helps a bit.
>>
>>9564928
For the love of fuck, do not do that again. Epoxy and UV can smell weird but they won't be anywhere near as vile as polyester.

If you want UV resin and aren't sure about the price, go for no-name brands. I found a bottle of Chinese UV resin for less than a tenner on eBay (I think it was around 60g) and it's great, really clear and cures super fast. Even if you get a dodgy batch it's still cheaper than something like Padico.

Also, UV is good to have on hand. If you need to attach charms or whatever to a piece without waiting a whole day for it to cure, or if you fucked up and need to cover mistakes with more resin, it's a lifesaver.
>>
>>9564928
I can't answer your question, but these pieces are lovely
>>
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>>9564939
I did hardly get any bubbles, had to pop a few that I saw though. I also like the catalyst ratios, I may of messed up with one piece. I tested a metal charm, a cut out piece of paper I encased in clear packaging tape, some dried clovers and pearls for one test piece. The other bigger one has an artificial rose with some pearls inside it, I'm worried the most about this one as I accidentally put a bit too much catalyst in the resin, hoping it's not too brittle. Seem to be turning out fine but I'll know for sure once they're out of the mold. Will test more objects.

>>9564947
Trust me I've learned my lesson, getting a respirator and hooking up an additional fan up there. I see some Chinese uv resin on ebay thats not too bad, still 3-4x the price of my polyester resin but I do want to try it so I'll grab a bottle.
>>
Sorry for not replying directly to posts. My phone a shit.

I love UV resin. Sure, it's more expensive, but you don't have to worry about ventilation, ratios, drying times, or any of the stuff that comes with normal resin. The price is nothing compared to the convenience. I love it. I use Padico and Daiso for emergencies (it takes a while for Amazon to ship Padico to me).
>>
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>>9564519
Honestly, I was afraid of it not curing at all and ruining the molds if I did that. I was under the impression that not sticking to the 50/50 ratio would ruin the mix and turn it into a gummy mess - am I wrong? Is this a thing I can do reliably to slow down the curing process?
>>
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Does anyone here have experience with pressure casting? I'd like to minimize the bubbles I get in my resins and have been considering using pic related. From a test setup I had before (using a mason jar inflated with a bike pump), I don't need much, just 10-20 PSI or so, but the volume of this paint tank would help so I don't have to make small batches.
>>
Zenmarket can't ship my UV resin after all since Japan post says it's flammable. They will issue you a refund though.
>>
>>9565514
Are there any SS who will ship resins? I'm willing to pay hazmat fees and such. I've bought UV resins from Japanese sellers on eBay before so there must be a way
>>
>>9565285
I don't but I recommend checking out Overworld Designs videos, I know she does a lot of pressure casting and her stuff is good
>>
>>9564928
Polyester resin is highly flammable, I wouldn't use it unless you're doing deep mold casting
>>
>>9565617
Seems others have used this brand for smaller casting too, beads, jewelry. Going to switch to Amazing Clear Cast after I use up this can though.
>>
>>9565568
I think those sellers usually omit the fact that they're shipping UV resin since most of my packing slips doesn't mention it. Maybe a smaller proxy would be willing to do it?
>>
>>9565743
Idk the customs slip said resin so I guess it was okay? Or maybe just because the seller didn't mark it as flammable. There's a brand of UV resin I wanna try that supposed to be low viscosity but I only see Japanese sites selling it
>>
>>9565568
At the risk of summoning the dumb anon from the last thread, I've bought UV resin from Rakuten and sent it to my tenso. Tenso shipped it without any indication it was hazardous.
>>
>>9565568
What are you trying to order? Is it Padico? Amazon sells Padico with free shipping. I haven't ordered it from another source since I found that out a few threads back.
>>
>>9565762
If it was Padico, I wouldn't be going to this trouble because it's all over eBay and Amazon. It's Tsurupika, which is supposed to be some of the lowest viscosity UV resin. Shame I can't find it in a refill size though
>>9565759
Never used Tenso, but I'll try that. Rakuten Japan take foreign cards? Shame about ZM not buying it because they're what I usually use since they're easy and straightforward
>customs please don't nab my package
>>
>>9566006
Yeah they're the easiest for me to use too but they seem pretty straight laced rules wise. I might check and see what Rakuten global has first. Tenso requires too much effort.
>>
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>getting molds in the mail that you don't remember buying
>>
>>9566039
Are you me? It felt like Santa showed up today. FIVE boxes all showed up one the same day. I'm so excited.
>>
>>9566006
Rakuten Japan takes foreign credit cards yes
>>
>>9566130
Oh man anon I'm gonna need to see your haul. For research purposes.
>>
My Googling skills suck. I have UV resin and coloring powders. Do I mix that into a cup and then pour into the mold or do I mix into the mold?
>>
>>9564939
Would you recommend polyester resin to a complete beginner?

I'd love to do a completely clear staff top and I've been reading up tutorials on resin casting, but I'd really like to learn more about clear casting!

The polyester resin you're talking about sounds awesome. Stinky, but mostly bubble free without pressure casting? What brand did you use?
>>
>>9566234
mix before pouring.

>>9564939
I have tried candy sprinkles with success in epoxy resin, and the piece is beautiful several years later. Its worth a shot if you have leftover active resin to burn. Be sure to let us know how it goes.

>>9564510
>>9565206
Do not use less activator. if the resin is old stock, it may just plain not be good anymore. Examine the heat and humidity levels of your working space as this impacts curing time, and if your problems persist contact the manufacturer.
>>
>>9564928
Sauce on the orbs?
>>
>>9566234

Wax paper is your friend. Pour UV resin onto wax paper. Mix with pigments. Mix well but not so vigorously that you get bubbles. Profit.

A good way of getting gradients with UV resin is not to mix after you pour, but mix various degrees of each pigment so you get a nice gradient effect, e.g. if you are mixing red and blue together, do 100% blue, 80% blue 20% purple, 60% blue 40% purple, etc. You can't get the percentages exact, but you can get a feel for how to divide up your gradient.

I included the youtuber (rina wakabayashi) I watch for a lot of UV resin videos. Just a warning, this could send you into youtube resin purgatory for a while lol.
>>
>>9566289
>do not use less activator
>heat
high.
>humidity
bone dry.
The curing time is supposed to be short, ~10min, but I simply can't mix, de-bubble, and pour in that amount of time (and it is kind of old and the heat where I live cuts it down to ~6min). Do you have any recommendations, by chance? I don't care what colour the resin is as I'm going to paint it, so the thinner the better.
>>
some starting videos I like
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQ63Fky5ca4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qX1g4_KLYyM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbVPE97W-wc
>>
>>9566259

Well, I was when I picked it up, I've never used epoxy because I was warned that it can take the enamel off your teeth.
Another bonus I noticed is that I dont get that strange cloudyness that you have to work to get rid of with epoxy (so I started with poly, but watched mostly epoxy tutorials to learn the ropes and adapted my methods later)
What you're working towards is definitely achievable though. I built my own clow staff and cast the beak from resin, and it looks perfect. The resin I used is through this link, sorry im totally green to sharing links on here and I've noticed people tend to pull off the start of their links.
ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/product/water-clear-casting-resin-inc-catalyst

Whilst in the right conditions it can go off quickly, its always better to leave it for as long as you can to eliminate chances of residual tackiness. Let it sit and degas for a while if you're cagey about getting this right, and try to pour from a height as well in a thin ribbon so less bubbles can get in. It's runny, so dont do this where I wind can pick up or you might up getting it in your face like I nearly did the first time I tried it outside.
>>
>>9566321
Anon made those.
>>
>>9566701
>I've never used epoxy because I was warned that it can take the enamel off your teeth
Maybe don't put it in your mouth?
>>
>>9566747
Well obviously. Pretty sure it was a question regarding the molds.
>>
>>9566875

Yeah because I'm totally going to do that...

My parents knew a guy who would work in dentistry and would make the false teeth for people when the orders came in, some component of it required him to use epoxy resin with zero ventilation, over time he lost all of his teeth because of this.
At least he probably got a sweet deal on a false pair.
>>
Where have you guys been getting UV lamps? I'm thinking I need to just go into a beauty supply store and get one. I've ordered two online and they've both been HORRIBLE.
>>
So I want to make a fake oversized cosmo as a display for my mom's bar for her birthday. I have never worked with resin before, but I read there is some shrinkage as it cures.
>Is the shrinkage a noticeable amount?
>Does it depend on the type, UV vs polyester vs epoxy?
>Which type would be best for a beginner?
>And I have a large glass already for the cosmo, how well would the resin adhere to it?
>>
I think this would be the thread to ask in, but what is Automatic Honey jewelry made of? I kind of want to use the same material as a ring base and do some resin with it.
>>
>>9567779
It's right there in their item description, anon:

>Our mysterious brooch is made from an antique toned raw brass, shiny enamel paint [...]
>>
>>9567626
Since you're making a cameo, I'm assuming you're making it opaque, so I would say to stay away from UV resin. >>9567485
eBay. I have a $20 salonedge one that works fine and I use it a LOT. Make sure you get at least a 35w one, I heard the led ones are really good but also pricy
>>
>tfw it's so hot today that your epoxy is already halfway cured and it's been only 4 hours
Unfortunately that means there's some trapped bubbles but I guess that's what I get for casting outside
>>
>>9568095
Cosmo... as in a cosmopolitan.
>>
>>9567626
There's no noticeable shrinkage at all.
I highly recommend epoxy.
The resin should adhere just fine. worst case scenario, it can just be taken in and out of the glass. Anyhow, I'd recommend Amazing ClearCast as a specific brand.
Keep the bottles in a small bowl of hot water for about 5 minutes before measuring and mixing to prevent heat bubbles.
Don't use any water-based dyes to colour your resin (ie food colouring). Alcohol inks and dust from chalk pastels are the best way to go.
>>
You guys remember how last thread people were complaining about the Sailor Moon molds? Well, I thought everyone was just too stupid to figure out how to use it, but now I realize that was wrong. Five failed attempts. Bendy, not cured (using UV) thoroughly, parts of the mold too tiny to actually get any resin in there. Fuck these molds!!! I just wanted to make cute phone case decorations!
>>
>>9568601
I dome mine in the mold with UV and they turn out a lot stronger... but still weak as shit compared to everything else I make. If you're making phone cases, as in you're sticking them to the case itself, the bendyness won't be an issue; if you're making charms, you should fill in as much as humanly possible. Use a bigger, more useful mold like a heart or oval to make a kawaii backdrop for your puny wands. Put in holographic film flakes and those tiny nail charms and make cute gradients and shit and it will look great, not look like a last-ditch attempt to convince yourself you made a good purchase. Dome the shit out of it once you're done and coat the wands with resin just to be on the safe side. It also means you can do more with them, since you can play around a lot with themes and color combinations.
>>
>>9568601
I just dome the backs with epoxy to make them more durable.
>>
>>9568601
Get your heat gun, quickly pass it over, bend into shape, weigh it down with a book
>>
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Has anyone ordered this kind of UV resin before? It's the kind all of the Chinese sellers are selling. It's $6 for 60g, so I'm probably going to buy it just for the price alone. I can report back with a review whenever it arrives if that hasn't been done before.
>>
>>9571926
I have that and it's great! It cures very quickly and it's not prone to bubbles, as far as UV goes. It takes alcohol ink a little too well, so use tiny amounts of ink and build up the color or you'll get a vile oversaturated mess. No idea how fast/badly it yellows since I've had it for a couple of months but so far everything I've made with it has been fine.
>>
>>9572097
Awesome! I'll go ahead and buy that 60g size then. I'll post back in a few weeks with some sample pieces.
>>
>>9571926
I just got the 60G size and I like it a lot. I think I'm gonna buy the biggest refill. One problem, I cast some pieces with it and I can't tell if they're yellow because of the flakes I added or the resin actually yellowed when it cured
>>
Any recommendations for ribbon stores on Aliexpress?
>>
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What do you all use to measure out your resins and plastics? I used to use 3mL syringes but took bad care of them and now the one with the resin is caked over and clogged. I'm wanting to get some new ones but was wondering if anyone had a better way.

I'll be using these for making silicone molds as well so I'm probably going to get some of the 6mL ones so I don't have to stop and mix every few minutes.
>>
>>9575046
Whoops, I meant 60mL. They're too big but I can't find anything between 3, 10, and 60mL for some reason.
>>
>>9574866
How much ribbon are you planning on buying? What style? I don't need specific answers, just something to work off of here.
>>
Guys I just found the best mold ever, y'all need to get in on this starfish chef
>>
>>9575046
Depending on the silicone molding you use, they recommend using a scale for accuracy.

For both resin and silicone molding I use a kitchen scale in grams instead of oz.
>>
>>9575046
Wait, how do you clean yours out? I always assumed once you got resin in it, it was done for
>>
How long should I wait before dry brushing pearl powder onto the back of pieces?
>>
>>9575428
Until it's tacky but not so much that the brush sticks to it, otherwise you get a huge mess with bristles all over the place.
>>
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>>9575046
I literally just use these. I fill it up to 10 with resin A, and continue pouring up to the 20 line with resin B. Or 15 and 30 respectively if I've got more to pour in. If I go slightly over the first line, I'll go slightly over the second line. I somehow haven't fucked up a batch yet. I have multiple little mixing cups. You can just pull out the resin once it's rock hard later, and reuse them.
>>
>>9575122
I am looking for ribbon for head bow accessories. So assorted sizes and colors are a plus. Velvet or whiney. I am sorry this doesn't help much does it?
>>
>>9571926
do you have a link for the 60g for $6 one? looking to buy some bigger bottles of uv resin

don't buy your resin off aliexpress with the luduo brand, shit just goes insta yellow and doesn't cure
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>>9575974
MiniaturesweetsHK has the 100g for pretty cheap and their shipping is a lot faster than the ebay ones.

>>9575864
Seconding this, but I've had some batches come out fucked up. I usually pour a little more of the hardener now just in case.
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>>9575857
I know that but like, how many minutes/hours is that?
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>>9575199
Mine is by volume, not weight, so that wouldn't help.

>>9575424
Soap, water, maybe something extra if I need it - I use two syringes, one for each component, and then squirt both into a mixing cup.
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>>9575195
Ha. That's cute. I saw some molds at Michaels I kind of want to get just because I tend to get a lot of kids buying jewelry from me.
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I've been trying out some ideas. Since I have a bunch of those fish nail decals I tried making a little scene in my seashell mold. First one on the right and second attempt on left.
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>>9576371
In reply to the volume or weight thing, do you mean your silicone or your resin?
Because all epoxies Ive had have stated to measure by volume instead of weight which I did in the beginning but then I read some people did do it by weight. So I gave it a go and now its what I measure with all the time. I find it way more accurate than just eyeballing the volume




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