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>OnS Vol 1, 2, 3, 5 6, 7 scans https://mega.nz/#!9PxW1IAC!W3O1fHqCC35kMI9PDV5w21C_iPDIOZEXgGlPXcrtn-U
>GosuRori scans http://chochololita.livejournal.com/#post-chochololita-1982
OnS12 is coming out soon, any thoughts on the preview? Any things in the works? Planning on any holiday themed sewing-- halloween, thanksgiving, christmas or otherwise? Talk about your current projects!
Old thread here >>9574461
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>>9650560
More previews of outfits from OnS12. I've just finished up a really pretty babydoll style jsk in this fantastic black silk velvet. I'm working on a matching bonnet too. It'll be my halloween coord. I'm still working on my mash up OP from the OP of the last thread, but it's getting close. I also bought the most beautiful green plaid to ease the pain of missing out on Holiday Collection, so I'll try and start/finish that before Christmas, but that may be a bit optimistic.
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>>9650565
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>>9650567
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>>9650569
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>>9650572
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>>9650573
That's all I have for now. I'll preorder it regardless, but I feel like a lot of these patterns look really same-y. I guess I'll just have to be patient and see what's actually in it.
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>>9650560
Who's the model in the center?
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>>9650581
Not sure exactly, but her IG is @raimu0726_official.
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where are some good fabric stores? i live in the middle of nowhere and the selection here is kinda limited to joanns, hobby lobby, etc. there are a few local places but the selection is pretty sparse at them desu.
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>>9650602
I've had some luck at upholstery places. They occasionally have some nice jacquard or damask leftovers, but it might only be enough for a skirt because otherwise they'd turn it into cushions or something and sell that instead.
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>>9650576
>>9650572

I really just like these two, might get the book for them.

On a related note, any advice for sewing lace fabric? The thing keeps bunching up under my sewing machine, I can't figure out how to get anything done. All I want to do is sew some lace around a square to make a simple veil and I can't seem to get a simple straight line going.
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>>9650639
Tissue paper. Slip a piece under the seam you're working on, tear away once you're finished.
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Has anyone here made a beret from scratch and if do would you mind sharing pics and any tips? I think I have it figured out but still, seeing other people's work would be grest.
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>>9650676

Awesome, I'll try that. Thanks!
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I’m thinking about making a cage skirt (not a hard one, something more like the h.naoto cages), any thoughts on material? I was debating premade faux leather strips, but I’m open to other ideas. Thoughts?
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>>9650576
I doubt this one is going to be a pattern, they'll probably include only the headpiece, as they did last issue with physical drop.
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>>9650847
I didn't post them all, but there's multiple photos of the dress and it does make it seem like the wa dress is going to be in it.
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>>9650847

I don't recognise the fabric print though, so I thought it might be an actual dress pattern. You make a good point though, guess I'll wait and see other people post whether that's a dress pattern or just the headpiece.
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>>9650855
I do hope they put the pattern for this one, anon! But they tend to mislead us with these pretty pics, haha
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>>9650576
>>9650847
>>9650855
We can almost make a Daydreaming Goldfish with this pattern.
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This is the only and one pattern I hoped that would be included in OnS
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>>9650866
Sweet god it's like the holy grail of patterns I've been looking for. Empire cut with no waist seam and a gathered bodice and full skirt.

God how I wish I knew pattern drafting.
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>>9651323
You can make a Frankenstein of OnS patterns to get this dress (like the bodice and sleeves of the cover dress from ONS7, a high waisted skirt from ONs1, then ruffle the front with another fabric etc.) , but it's so much trouble, it's totally not worth the time. I wish they could just release it already, geez.
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>>9650865

I figure that's why they included it. Meta is up to several prints with this cut now, right? Something cat, Daydreaming Goldfish, the rabbit print, and wasn't there a temari print with this cut at some point? Plus a few taobao "inspired-by" lookalikes. OnS staff probably took that to mean it's a cut that girls will like.

I really just want the cut and the instructions without the giant bow in front, then make it out of some really boring seigaiha print. Wa lolita is nice and all but so much of it is so garish. Fingers double and triple crossed it's an actual dress pattern that I can use.
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>>9650866
Me too! I would happily buy an entire issue just for this one pattern.

>>9651400
I've been trying to Frankenstein the shirred OP from OnS 5 with the high-waisted skirt from OnS 1 but the neckline doesn't sit right, and the back of that OP is also fully shirred so I had to wing that part. Maybe I should merge only the bust of the OnS 5 OP onto the OnS 7 OP? I want the ruffled bust to be 'open' so my bust can actually fill it out a bit, not just be a ruffle on top of a flat pattern piece.

Goddamn it just put this pattern in one of the issues please!
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>>9651729
Are you using the Snow White OP? I guess that could work fine! The biggest problem is the sleeve attached differently, but if you use the idea of a central panel of ONS5 OP and then merge with ONS7 you could get something nice.

Also, pic attached might be a good reference for the bottom part.

I even considered getting that horrendous Smplicity battern an modify the bust to get this dress... http://demandware.edgesuite.net/sits_pod26/dw/image/v2/AAWA_PRD/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-simplicity-product-master/default/dwd1bbb78a/images/product/8127/simplicity-dresses-pattern-8127-AV1.jpg

Anyway, I wish you success, anon!
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>>9648729
>>9649623
Thanks, anons! I didn't think of a satin stitch because I thought you needed an embroidery machine (?) for that. I'm still not confident I can make it look decent since I'm a fucking noob, so I'm going to just tuck the raw edges...
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What kind of fabric should I use that would mimic the quality of brand? I have some simple cotton dresses I’ve made for casual wear but I want to step my game up.
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>>9651799

Cotton twill. The better stuff sometimes has a bit of a sateen sheen to it.

....I've only been able to find various types of twill without the sheen, though. Still a step up from quilting cotton, if that helps.
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Are there any patterns for an OP like the modern AP ones? Like Misty Sky and Cream Cookie Collection?
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>>9650573
If anyone gets a pattern for this apron, this anon would love it!!!
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Hey gulls, so I found this cute fabric that would be nice for a simple jsk, what do you guys think about it? At first I thought it was too busy but now I'm starting to think it could have some more otome-like features.
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>>9653084
Love the vibrant colors and cute French words alongside the pastries. I can totally envision a cute otome JSK with that.
Where is this from, anon?
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>>9653118
I actually found it on Etsy! The seller is nekonekofabric :)
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>>9653180
Thank you very much anon. Their stuffs are cute AF.
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>>9653084
You could probably make a simple ETC-style otome camisole dress out if it, but I wouldn't use it for lolita.
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So does Hobby lobby or Michael's sell ANY good kind of lace, or is it all shit?
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>>9653382
I’ve found nice lace at JoAnns, but it’s like 5-10 bucks a yard, you’re better off buying shit in bulk off taobao
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>>9653382
Yeah don't bother with big box stores. I mean, the cotton cluny lace is alright, nothing special. Try looking for specialty/locally owned fabric stores in your area. Still gonna be spendy though.
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>>9654096
???
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>>9653382
Hobby Lobby sells some pretty decent lace, anon. Not sure how you're missing it unless their stores in different parts of the country have vastly different stock? Let me see if I can gather all of my HL lace and take a pic
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>>9654110
My HL has decent lace, but it's so similar to what I can order off Aliexpress that I don't bother unless I need it right away. (Midwest here if that makes a difference)
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>>9654104
It was a troll and the video had nothing to do with ruffles. He posted it in another thread, too.
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>>9654177
Ah. Couldn’t tell if it was a troll or if the video was nuked for having lolita in the tags,
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When is the new OnS coming out?
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>>9655774
Nov 16th-ish is what I heard. I'm surprised the preorder isn't up yet.
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Does anyone else have the problem of having too many ideas, not knowing where to start and end up doing nothing? I'm currently at that phase, I have materials for 4 blouses, 2 jsks and few other fabrics I don't yet know where to use them. This is frustrating, I want to make them all now but I can't just get myself to do them.
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>>9656000
When this happen to me, I start doing everything at the same time. Not exactly but I start doing each step for each project I have in mind : choosing patterns, tracing them and so on... and most of the time, even before starting to sew anything I have figured out the priority of each project and know which one I'm gonna do first.
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This is probably the best lace i found at a pat catans near me. What do you gulls think? I'm using it for a headbow because I recently bought a dress that doesn't come with one. The dress is chocolate and ivory
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>>9656122
Looks perfectly fine for me! Go for it, anon!
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>>9656000
I'm just holding onto a chunk of fabric waiting for the OnS so I can make some nice patterns instead of wasting it on some basic, bland JSKs.
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I'm working on a costume, and hung up on how to pattern/sew the chest details in the attached picture. I have a slightly stretchy cotton/poly blend shirt, and a bunch of beige upholstry vinyl as my materials.

The only thing I know for certain is that I'm going to sew vinyl panels onto the inside of the shirt. I have the shapes of the holes themselves measured out, but am unsure which route I should take with translating them to patterns.

Current ideas are:
1. Pinning a large rectangle of vinyl into the inverse with the pattern drawn on the back, and sewing the details through it. I'd then cut off the excess vinyl and cut open the panels on front making it a straight-up reverse applique.
2. Similar to above, but doing one detail at a time with smaller pieces of vinyl.
3. Patterning the details so that the seams fold inwards and are invisible from the front. I have no idea how to do this.

I'm not totally incompetent but I don't regularly sew, so I'm really lost on what would be the best way to approach this.
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>>9657356
This thread is specifically for lolita, so I would suggest going into the help thread to ask. You probably have a higher likelihood of someone who's experienced with vinyl finding your post that way.
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Anyone have a good DIY tutorial for a lolita veil?
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>>9657536
What makes a veil lolita? Maybe google veil tutorial and slap some lace in it?
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>>9656000

Start with the simplest project that gives you the most returns, like a onepiece that you can immediately start coording and making plans to wear out once you complete it, instead of making a jsk and then needing to make a blouse in order to wear it. Or, if you already have some jsks, make the blouse that would immediately create new coords, don't make another jsk (and vice versa).

Put yourself on a "new projects" ban and don't buy anything until you've made something. Otherwise you run a risk of turning into one of those people who watch a lot of youtube tutorials and keep buying art supplies, they think they're being immersed in their hobby, but actually all they're doing is consuming other people's content, not actually creating anything.

I've been there, you just gotta pick a project and get started.
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>>9657624
>one of those people who watch a lot of youtube tutorials and keep buying art supplies, they think they're being immersed in their hobby, but actually all they're doing is consuming other people's content, not actually creating anything
This hit home for me. I don't watch YT tutorials and come up with projects by myself, but the majority of these projects get stuck in the "bought materials" phase and never go further than that. It's gotten to the point where I don't feel comfortable telling people I sew because they'll always ask me if I made anything I'm wearing and the answer is almost always no.
I've recently bought materials and gotten started on something that needs to be finished in November so that has priority for now, but after that I'm definitely putting myself on a buying ban and going to work through the projects I have laying around. The worst thing is, though, that a few of these were started with a certain theme or event in mind and were not finished in time, so now my motivation for these projects is gone. I can probably finish up my Star Trek-inspired JSK in a week or so but my comm's ST meet has come and gone, so when would I even wear it?
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>>9657513
Ah, sorry about that. I wasn't sure if this thread was just for lolita or general sewing discussion.

Thanks, and I'll delete that post when I get a chance.
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>>9657737
Don't worry about it, anon! The OP doesn't explicitly mention lolita so it's an easy mistake to make.
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>>9657671

I've done this too. Just shelf the project. I don't mean throw it out. Fold it up neatly and put it, and the other raw materials and trim you bought for it, into a box or bag, then label it clearly "Star Trek jsk 50% complete". Then find a space where you can put that, and other half-finished wips.

After a while, you'll either come up with more inspiration, or another use for it, like if your comm decides to have another ST meetup once ST4 comes out, or maybe figure a way to repurpose it into a Harry Potter jsk for a HP meetup. After a year or something, if you still haven't made anything from it, you'll feel much better about divvying up the scraps and trim to be reused into other projects.

So the project isn't actually wasted, it's just waiting for another occasion and more inspiration to shine, plus you already got in some sewing practice even if you end up scrapping the dress entirely. And now you're also free to go make another dress for the next meetup without feeling down about what you're currently sewing.
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Sewing block -anon here. Thanks for all the replies, I'm glad I'm not the only one with this. I decided to start with the oldest project and go through them till I get into the newest fabrics I have bought. Also decided that I won't buy anything new until I get these done, which will be hard.
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>>9658589
>>9657671

Don't start with the oldest projects. Start with the lowest effort that will give you the biggest payoff. The easiest dress/blouse that you can wear at once, not something that you planned months ago and now have nowhere to wear it to.

What you want is some easy effort and the dopamine hit when you finish the project, and then the positive feedback when you wear it out and you're happy that you finished it. So you need a project you can finish fast and easily, that you can wear at once.

The positive feelings will make you feel happy, and then you'll keep on sewing.

Keep the old outdated projects but don't work on them if you don't have a use for them, that will just make you sad and depressed and then you stop sewing. You can usually repurpose the materials for another dress or another occasion. But right now, focus on the quick and useful projects for the fast positive feelings.
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Hatmaking, cute boaters, berets, etc. Any good resources?
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>>9661586
Angela Clayton has some tutorials on her channel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXRyq8f9z0o
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>>9661430
These are good tips, thank you!
(Just another sewing block anon passing by)
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Has anyone tried using the stiff bonnet pattern (14) from vol 7? My sewing skills are nothing fancy but I really want to make a bonnet for once, but I think I will have to add a bit of height to the brim(?) and attach it to a hairband so that I don't have to rely on the ribbons or the comb alone.
All the tutorials I have looked at are either floppy + have a full cap or are made using a straw hat, which looks a bit too bulky for my tastes
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>>9662123
I haven't made this one in particular, but I will say, pick your interfacing wisely. The stiff bonnet in 8 recommended what I interpreted as fusible fleece interfacing and it wasn't nearly stiff enough. Look for something intended for... stiff purses or the like.
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Any requests for embroidery files? I need practice making them so i might as well share with embroidery machine owning anon.
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>>9653771
Plugging my sale from the BST thread, figure some of y'all might be interested. Feel free to make me an offer.
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I recently bought this Innocent World Flocked Dot jsk, but it didn't come with the belt, so I was thinking of buying some fabric and trying to make a replacement myself. Would velveteen be alright? I've been looking around on taobao and I've found some that seems to be for upholstery and pillows and such. Would that be good to use since it's stiffer (I think), or would I want to use a different fabric and stabilizer? Any tips would be lovely!
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>>9663299
Or medium to heavy buckram. Which is like stiff interfacing made specifically for hats.
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>>9650866
>>9651323
>>9651729

The simplicity pattern might be the answer we've been looking for:

https://gotadebaunilha.blogspot.com.br/2017/10/costura-review-simplicity-8127-vestido.html
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>>9665855

My machine's a featherweight that doesn't handle thick fabric well, so I'm somewhat biased against using any kind of heavy upholstery fabric.

I do want to mention that a very thick fabric being used both front and back for the bow belt is going to result in a bulky belt, it might be difficult to gather the fabric to make the bow, and the belt would add bulk to your waist. I'd personally go for dressmaking fabric instead of upholstery fabric for that reason, maybe even make the back side of the belt (the side that's facing your waist when worn) out of solid plain fabric instead of velvet(een).
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>>9666073
If you actually read her post, she says that this pattern required
>a ton of alterations in the dress, sizing, measurements, finishings etc.
to get to the finished dress she posted on CoF. Just looking at the pictures it's obvious that the top of the bust sits too low, the sleeves are set too far apart, and the back is too low for it to be a good lolita pattern.

If I see it for cheap I might pick it up somewhere and try my hand at altering it, but at this point it's really no better than frankensteining several OnS patterns together. At least with OnS patterns you don't have to extend multiple pieces for modesty.
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>>9666098
Honestly, I don't see the alterations for the simplicity pattern being any more difficult than frankenpatterning the OnS patterns with the exceptions that it's one single pattern and more easily accessible than OnS back issues or even OnS to people who don't have access to Japanese bookstores but do have access to things like Jo Anns.

Maybe it's because I'm a bit smaller but honestly I don't see needing to make particularly drastic modifications to the pattern for modesty. On a 32b bust it seems to sit about the same as a MM dress I have with a gathered bust and the skirt seems like it would hit my knees as is, so I just need to adjust for a petticoat. This is some pretty basic stuff.
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>>9666098
Honestly, if you're about 5'5 and under, about regular weight and about a b cup you should be fine.

Taller girls might need to adjust the skirt to be lower, bustier girls bring the bust higher, and fat chicks... Well I'm sure they're used to butchering the OnS patterns to hell and back as is so.

We were all thirsty as hell for an empire cut dress with princess seams, a gathered bust, and a full skirt. Sucks the model dress simplicity made sucks, but making a bust higher is really not that difficult. As for the sleeves being too far apart, idk, I don't have autism so I can't imagine sleeves being too far apart is that big of a problem.
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I have a question for peoples in this thread : If someone make some dress with really pretty handmade print, would you prefer to buy the dress or buy the fabric and do the dress yourself ? And do people already sell fabric specifically for lolita ?
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>>9666116
It depends the dress quality. If it's top notch, I'd rather buy than make my own. If the dressmaker is known for poor guality I would make it myself.
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>>9666110
I don't have access to either Japanese bookstores or Jo Anns. So speaking for myself, OnS get me more usable patterns for my money and it's what I would recommend for people local to me.

>>9666112
Chill, anon. I was just repeating what the girl who actually used the pattern said about it, unless you want call her an autist too? Sleeves being set far apart is one of those thing that often distinguish sexy rockabilly dresses from lolita dresses and can be annoying to have to alter, so I thought I'd mention it.
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>>9666090
Oh, good point! I've got an ancient metal singer sewing machine that should in theory be able to handle heavy fabrics, but bulk around the waist is definitely not a look I want to go for!
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>>9666073
that's awesome! Thanks for sharing, anon. I've been eager to see the result of this pattern and this will surely help me.
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>>9666116

I'd always buy a ready-made dress instead of fabric if I can, but the cut and sizing sometimes means it doesn't fit, doesn't look good for my body type, or I still want to buy an extra yard to make accessories or something to go with the dress.

Unlike the other anon though, if the person selling it was known for bad workmanship I'd be iffy about buying fabric unless there's some pretty extensive reviews (like posting closeups of the print and weave and washing it a few times, maybe remarking on any crocking) -- someone who is willing to sell bad workmanships sounds like they'd be bad at choosing quality fabric to sell.

So far as lolita-specific fabric goes, the market isn't big enough to sustain lolita-only fabric. The best I've seen is Japanese quilting fabric, which you see a lot of in OnS. There's some companies like Harajuku Dolls that makes me think they're targeting lolitas because they make a lot of border prints, but also marketing it to other crafters to make lunchbags and kid's clothes from.
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Don't know if this has been asked before but where do you gulls get your lace trims from? I can't ever find anything besides crochet lace or lace monster level cheap stuff. I would really like soft mesh lace like what is on most AP dresses
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Which Otome no Sewing is the best for a beginner? As in, which would have the most variety of items to start with?
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>>9666665
This TaoBao shop gets linked a lot:
https://laces.world.taobao.com/

And I really love this Etsy shop, personally.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/lacetrimwholesalers

Both have the type of tulle lace you're describing. The taobao shop has shapes like cupcakes too, if you're into sweet.
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i have about 3 yards of forest green velvet

what do i do with it
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>>9666669
The later ones all have a good variety of items. It mostly really depends on what you want. They're all gonna have a few types of headwear, a skirt or two, two or three main styles of JSK or OP, and usually some sort of outerwear (cardigan, cape, coat, etc). They also alternate between "warm weather" and "cold weather" so that'll affect what kinds of items are in it. Warm weather will lean towards JSKs and cardigans, cold to OPs and capes/coats.

Here's a really thorough page with scans from each book so you can see what's available. Any part of a coord that has a number next to it is a pattern.
>https://misscarolbelle.wordpress.com/list-of-patterns/
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>>9666701
Sorry for double post, but... There's a great babydoll JSK in velvet in ONS 8 that you could do. I just finished one out of silk velvet and thought it was really nice. Pic related.
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>>9666701
>>9666745
Seconding this JSK, I made mine in royal blue velvet and it's great. It was easy to make and follow, took about 3 days and I wear it all the time since it's simple enough to wear casually but still is clearly lolita. I'm thinking about making another one in black since I wear it so much.
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>>9666669

Just wanted to bring this to your attention. The reason people recommend OnS to beginners so often is because the front of almost every issue has a mini wardrobe where they show you about ~8 individual items you can make, and then show you a few different coords using those 8 items (though you'll need to add things like socks, shoes, parasol, bloomers, petti, etc, of course). If you're totally clueless and need a hand with coordinating lolita, you can just pick out one of these mini wardrobes, make all 8 items in coordinating colours, then buy the additional things like socks and shoes and you'll basically have a mini lolita wardrobe with enough coords for a few meetups. That's honestly why almost every issue is good for beginners, there's a good starter mini wardrobe in almost every issue.

You can recognise the spreads with the mini-wardrobes, they'll have the individual items laid out seperately like this, and then the next few photos will be coords using those individual items. Then the rest of the mook tends to be photos of single coords.

I think the only exception so far is Issue 9, there's only one OP you can wear with or without the apron in that.
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>>9666701
give it to meeee

But seriously, 3 yards should be enough for any JSK that isn't a ridiculous ruffle monster.

>>9666939
Bloomers and petti are often also included, and sometimes even bags. Personally I'd rather buy the petti, though. I tried to make my own out of organza once and it was so frustrating it put me off sewing for several months.
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>>9666981
>Bloomers and petti are often also included

Oh yes, and the fluffy bunny purse was my favorite thing they included in one of the issues.

I meant moreso that even if the petti/bloomers/purse weren't included you'd still need to add them, as they equally often leave them out of the 8-item count, but you can't really wear a coord without petti/bloomers regardless of whether they're included or not, and you probably still need a purse at some point even if there isn't one shown in any of the coords photos.

I totally agree with buying instead of making the petticoat. It isn't even significantly cheaper than making it myself.
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Complete dumbass question time, how do you read the pattern/instructions if you can't read moonrunes?
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>>9667051
>>9667051
Use OCR from Google translator on your phone. Or find a guide with the translation of the main words.
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>>9667051
I just follow the pictures/drawings and memorize some of the most common ones like "front" and "back".
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>>9666981
Seconding this-- it's so not worth it to make your own petti. With the amount of time you'll spend gathering and shit it's worth it to shell out the $50 or whatever for a nice poofy petti that's guaranteed to be better than what you sewed.
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Anons, what's your favourite sewing guide for basics? I'm looking to pick up a book to get my basics down so I can finally start making my own clothes. I get distracted less with a print book, so any recommendations would be appreciated!
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>>9667103
In my high school sewing class we had the reader's digest complete guide to sewing, I think there's a newer version now but it has legitimately every technique with detailed instructions and diagrams. I found it really useful, would totally recommend.
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>>9667103
>>9668013
Seconding this, this is active reference material in my sewing room that I use fairly often.

https://www.thriftbooks.com/w/complete-guide-to-sewing_readers-digest-association/3221328/#isbn=0895770261
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>>9667103

Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.
Covers almost everything you can think of.
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>>9650560
OnS Vol12 is up for reservation on amazon.co.jp.
>https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/4834745325/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1508842879&sr=8-1&keywords=%E4%B9%99%E5%A5%B3%E3%81%AE%E3%82%BD%E3%83%BC%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0BOOK12
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Hey guys I’m having this recurring problem, when I make a skirt or dress is get this weird ‘puffing out’ right at the seam between the skirt and bodice/waistband. I want it to be smooth, but 8/10 time is get this ugly puff. What am I doing wrong??
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>>9669547

Did you press the seam in between sewing?

I don't mean ironing the skirt at the end. As soon as you've sewn the skirt to the waistband, that's the point where you break out the ironing board and press, press, press until the skirt and the waistband lies completely flat (with the seam facing the direction it's supposed to). Do it again when you sew the waistband down, in fact, do it every time you sew a seam at all.

That should help all the seams lie completely flat, giving you a more streamlined result. Don't wait until the skirt is done to press the seams, sometimes the heat doesn't really reach the fabric that's trapped in multiple folds, so the fabric keeps wanting to lie straight so it keeps puffing out.
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>>9653084
I got this in pink and made it into a jsk. The print is cute but a little too small for my taste. From far away, it looks a bit like bed-sheet kei. If I were to do it over, I would buy the version of this fabric where each pastry is larger.
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any non-basic tips for making bows? I have made a bunch and followed lots of tutorials, and they're okay but not great. I particularly have trouble getting both sides of a bow to fold/bend the same way when making longer bows with no tail.
I'm using a cotton ribbon btw, like satin ones but not shiny, so tips for the non-ribbon kind won't be as helpful.
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>>9669631

Sorry, I have trouble visualising what you mean -- I know what ribbon you're talking about, but the description of long bows without tails is kinda confusing. Photos of what you already made might help?
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>>9669609
Oh snap, I don’t do that, I always wait until the very end. Thanks for the tip!!
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>>9669647
Fair, I'm not great at descriptions. Excuse the bad quality of pics, they're from my phone.
Top pic is a bow with "tails" I don't know if that's the correct term. The second pic is not the longest/biggest bow, but it's easier to see the problem on this one. I meant long as in horizontally long.
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>>9669665

Tails is the right term. I think I get what you mean, you want the left and right sides of the bow to be symmetrical? But it's going to be hard to get perfect symmetry in a bow, ribbon or not.

This might help though: once I've sewn down the folds in the middle of the bow, I wind the thread around the middle of the bow as if the bow is a bobbin. I wind the whole area that will sit under the middle ribbon piece, so if the middle ribbon is 1cm wide, I'd wind 1cm in the middle of the bow. This thread is pulled pretty tightly, it's what holds the bow together and shapes it. If you need to adjust the left and right sides, the thread will hold it much better when it's wound like this. Then the piece of ribbon that goes on top of it is only a decorative cover, it doesn't actually hold the ribbon.

I should post a photo, I don't think I described it well, but unfortunately I'm not making any bows at the moment. I'll see if I can find an old wip photo to post tomorrow to show you what I mean.
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>>9669691
I'm pretty sure I got what you mean, and that makes sense. I did wind thread around the middle, but just in the middle, not the width of the middle ribbon bit. Thank you so much, I will try that next time.
I was wondering if I should try to gently iron it? Or if I had to like starch it or something.
I appreciate you saying it's hard to get perfect symmetry, I though I was doing something really wrong.
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>TFW you don't know if your serger needs a repair or if you just can't find the correct tension settings.
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>>9666745
is 3 yards enough for this jsk? i've been eyeing making this for a while and bought the ons it's from. i just wanna make sure i have enough fabric for it lol
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>>9670339
The table says that for fabric 146cm wide, you need 2m50.
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>>9650845
i made a cage skirt for halloween last year, i got a bunch of the plastic strapping they use around bundles of lumber at home depot/lowe's and threaded them through casings made of grosgrain ribbon. the waist just had a half-elastic waistband. i recommend wrapping the cut edge pieces in packing tape, and working with heavy gloves on because that stuff is sharp and will cut a bitch. they just throw it out so if you just ask around at the lumber area, they'll give it to you or let you take it. i would double up the pieces if you want it to be quite sturdy.
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>>9657536
not a tutorial, but it depends on the shape you want the veil. if you want it to be more "pointy", cut your fabric square, and sew a comb about 1/3 of the way between two corners, ideally so that when the comb is put in place, the shorter side overlaps the longer side. this is a hankerchief veil. or you could cut a giant circle and gather it onto the comb on one edge for an angel style veil. you could also make a two layer veil this way by sewing the comb again about 1/3 of the way across the material.
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>>9670339
I got mine + the backing of the stiff bonnet out of 2.5yds. I did do the hem ruffle out of chiffon though, and I used a different fabric for the lining. Mine was velvet, so I didn't particularly want that against my skin anyhow.
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>>9669650
different anon, but during school I would do my practicums working under the ladies at the theater's wardrobe. Oh boy do they stress pressing after every seam you sew. It's sometimes annoying but worth it.

pressing the seam flat first, like when you put the pieces through your machine, makes it easier to press open and you'll usually get a nicer looking press.

ALSO my professor stressed the difference between pressing and ironing. Pressing during construction, and regular ironing after the garment is finished. (lol but i don't usually go that anal about it)
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>>9666123
>>9666357
Thank you for answering !
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>>9670237

Glad you can understand it, it seems I don't have photos of the middle stage at all.

As for starching, I'd really rather start with a stiffer ribbon at the beginning than try starching a limp ribbon -- less hassle, less work, less waiting, overall easier. If the bow was so big no ribbon exists that is stiff enough, I'd switch over to making the bow from fabric and interfacing. It's pretty rare to find a design where I'm stuck with a particular ribbon and can't switch it out for another one in a close enough colour.

Ironing, I'd do it for those ribbons that were left folded in their packages too long to get the creases out, but the synthetic ones will melt (and some "cotton" ribbons aren't really cotton, they're listed as "cotton finish" instead). I'd suggest a lot of patience and to step up the iron gradually.

If you're talking about ironing ribbons to make bows stiffer, again, it's just easier to start with stiffer ribbons and let them hold their shape naturally.
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What is this.
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>>9672101
At least the commenters have so far been honest and trying to give her advice on how to make it look less like a parade float.

I kinda feel bad. How do you even begin trying to make something that would look good on a frame like that.
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>>9672116
I think I'm just confused because she said she was a high intermediate Lolita and a veteran seamstress; both of which seem to be false based on those photos. Like that wig and that bodice... good lord.
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>>9671478
Thank you so much for replying, that's really helpful.
Where did you get that ribbon? It looks thicker than what I have, and I have trouble finding cotton/cotton finish ribbon that isn't just twill tape.
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>>9672101
yeesh

>>9672119
Maybe she's been bad at both for a very long time? Which probably means she's not receptive to constrictive criticism.
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>>9672130

That one is actually Meta's bows that I took apart and resewed, I remake burando bows because Meta and btssb/aatp make like the weirdest skimpy bows ever.

I've found similar ribbon on both eBay and taobao. Don't search for cotton ribbon. Search for "Korean matte" ribbon on eBay. Taobao is difficult, I search for Korean ribbon and it sometimes pops up (along with other shiny ribbons).
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>>9673456
What am I doing wrong? I only get makeup results. I literally typed in "korean matte ribbon" into eBay.
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>>9673682

Ah, the search needs to be set to Crafts. On the right of the search bar, click the drop down box and look for "Crafts".

Forgot to mention that, sorry.
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>>9650560
I'm working on a chiffon blouse right now. It's my second ever blouse, and my first time working with chiffon. I was very nervous about it, since I've purposefully avoided working with chiffon for half a decade, but it's coming along very well and I haven't encountered any problems with it. It makes me wonder if some people are just dramatic when they talk about what a nightmare it is to work with.
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>>9673876
nayrt but
>????
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>>9673876
Yeah, uh same as >>9673915. Are you like using a non-US version of eBay or something?
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>>9673915
US anon and all I got were knockoff ribbon tags for Chanel and some polka dot ribbon.

Anon pls stop pussying around and give us a link.
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>>9673960
>>9673964

I’m trying, but 4chan keeps rejecting my messages. Not sure which one of the links it thinks is spam or how to get around it, but anyway, you’re all big girls, I’m sure you can make sense of this text:

this >>9673964 is the right one, you do get some other stuff in there, but it’s a much shorter list and easier to spot the matte ribbons, then follow the trail back to the shop for the other widths. You’ll end up with a shop called annielovdotcom, seller is iheartu. Search the shop for “matt” and you should end up with all 5 of their listings for matte cotton finish ribbons.

(Remember I said I wasn’t making any bows at the moment. At the time I bought mine was about 2 years back and there were more sellers, hence this ass backwards method of searching for the ribbons, it’d have found the other sellers pretty easily. I didn’t realise there’s only one seller left now, or I’d have left the shop name instead of the search terms earlier on).

I also found a Japanese company that makes them, might even the same company that supplies it to burando. I bought some (again, a couple of years ago) and this is pretty much the exact same ribbon on Usakumya. The company is called Shindo, and the exact ribbon you want is called SIC-160, the Drape Matte Satin Ribbon. However, Shindo only supplies to companies, so it’s up to you to find a retailer that stocks their ribbons.

You can type SIC-160 into either rakuten jp or amazon jp, or actually you can type it into google and it will pull up some online shops. However, I know that rakuten jp is safe to order from, and amazon jp should be relatively safe. Can’t vouch for any other sites you find through google.

Hope that clears things up a little.
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>>9674061
Does this look right? I just googled annilove matte ribbon and this was in the first 3 results.
http://www.papillonribbon.com/en_GB/products/436/Matte%20Satin.html
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is there a guide to help read the ons patterns? i've got volume 8 and am wanting to do the velvet dress but i can't figure out what all i need to do since there's only one part on the actual pattern sheet.

sorry for such a noob question lol
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>>9674138
Since everything but the bodice front is practically a rectangle, you're supposed to draft those patterns yourself. So for the skirt you cut (on the fold!) two rectangles that are 53, 56 or 60.5cm wide (depending on the size you're making) and 40.3, 42.5 or 44.7cm high. For the ruffle you cut two rectangles that are 14/15/15.5cm high and 137/145/157cm wide, etc. Pay attention to the cutting diagram to see what's supposed to be cut on the fold and what isn't.
In this case the front part of the skirt isn't a perfect rectangle, there's a little 2cm point in the middle where it meets the bust.
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>>9674109

Sorry anon, I really have no idea. The photo looks right but it's pretty blurry, the description was fine up until it mentions gifts packaging, which is pretty wrong.

I'd stick with the eBay or something off rakuten personally, rakuten should be near-burando level and the eBay one shows it being used to wrap hairclips at least.
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>>9672130

I saved someone's research on ribbon from one of the FB groups. Hope it helps.
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>>9674152
Thank you so much for explaining! Now I can get to work on it.
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ons 12 is up for preorder on amazon jp

https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/4834745325/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5
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>>9663342
no requests, but I love this example you've shown
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>>9663342
I don't have any embroidery machine but I was at a sewing and crafts expo this weekend and they were demoing how to make Christmas decorations with the embroidery machines there. That might be something for you to practice with.

I don't know what they embroidered it on but if I saw correctly they had some kind of plastic that was removed to only leave the thread.
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>>9674562
It's been up for a few days now, anon. >>9668230
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>>9674409
I've also found brand ribbons at my nicer fabric store (think for fashion design students) in the US. If you're in the city and there's a fashion design school nearby, it couldn't hurt to check out the fabric stores in that area.
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>>9674562

I'm going to have to wait until my local Kino gets them in (lower shipping fees).

Hoping those who get it early can post what patterns are in there, I'd get it either ways just for the wa dress, but I'm also really curioius about the Queen of Hearts outfit.
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I'm looking to make a box pleated skirt like some of Victorian Maiden's beautiful pieces. What is the best fabric to get those crisp pleats? My instinct is twill or a light weight wool, but I've never done something with pleats before.
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>>9678442
It's mostly going to come down to fiber content. Natural fibers, a la cotton or wool will hold a pleat better than polyester. Be mindful of the fabric thickness relative to the width of your pleats. If you're doing fairly wide pleats, you're fine with relatively heavy weight fabric, but narrower needs lighter. Also, spraying your pleats with a vinegar solution before pressing will help. And make sure you let your fabric cool before removing it from the ironing board.
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>>9676673
I've got it on preorder, I'll take (admittedly low quality cell phone snaps) photos as soon as mine comes in. It'll be here on the 20th.
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>>9678840

I thought it was the other way around? With polyester, it's plastic so if you turn up the heat a little and press it harder, it will partially go soft and when it cools again it will hold its new, folded shape better?

My first pleated skirt came unpleated in the wash, but I went back with a vinegar spray and that helped it hold its shape. afaik you need to re-apply it every 3 washes or so, though.
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>>9679238
It's more to do with the drape. Yes, you can melt the polyester in place, but it tends to drape "softly" think like rayons. I prefer the look wools and cottons get when you pleat them. You do have to reapply it every few washes, you're right. I've never found it to be too much extra work though.
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>>9679242

Ah, I see. Thank you for clarifying. It's true, the vinegar spray isn't a big deal, I guess I'm just thinking of the shock and surprise I got when I first made it without knowing about needing to spray it with vinegar, and all my pattern-matched pleats came undone in the wash.
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>>9679056

Thanks, anon. Even cellphone photos would be pretty much appreciated, really. I'll probably only receive mine a week or two after that, the anticipation is killing me already.
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https://cosplay.mccall.com/charm-school-products-53133.php?page_id=5923&utm_source=CBM20171103&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=CBM20171103

Why.

Why pleated in the front and not in the back...?

Come on, guys. Why do we still not have a good western pattern for a high waisted, box pleated, gored full skirt?

OnS is on its, what, fifth?
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>>9680130

Actually, I think the back of the skirt is a flared pattern, aka A-line skirt, which generally sits better on most women. I wonder if the front is a simple rectangle instead of a proper box-pleated A-line skirt?

Still kind of ass retarded, but when you consider it's marketed as a costume pattern I'm not really surprised if they included it as a labour-saving thing to not make pleats for the back of a skirt that's covered by the jacket. It's probably really easy for the home sewer to make the front and back the same, though. Maybe that's why they didn't bother saying "you can totes make the back of the skirt pleated if ya wants".
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What fit issues do you generally come across with OnS patterns? I was trying to make this JSK last week (OnS 8 patterns 18/47, "Pintuck JSK") and had to abandon it, it was so poorly fitting on me. My bust & waist measurements fitted pretty closely to size M (just a little smaller in the waist if I recall right) and I lengthened the bodice by 6cm before starting (nothing unexpected there). There were a couple of odd things about the pattern pieces I noticed:
1 - From the front & back photos it looked like it was higher waisted in the front than in the back. I wondered if they hadn't added extra length to the front to account for the bust. Turned out they'd actually made the back bodice pattern *shorter* than the front?
2 - Side back bodice was designed as if it was meant to be a side front bodice. It only looks like this on the pattern sheet, not on the drafting diagram. By this I mean that after the widest part (a little way below the underarm level), it doesn't curve smoothly down to the waist with a convex line, but instead curves convex for a little and then switches to concave, leaving a bump like you would have for a (small) bust.

I made up a mockup (smoothing off the side back bump on one side, which looked much better than the other) but when I tried it on there was just too much which needed altering. Bust point was too high and too close together (at least an inch off in both cases) and there was excess fabric gaping in front and back armholes. The bodice could have done with lengthening again by about 5/8" and the waist taking in but both of those would have been very minor alterations to do.

Given that a Simplicity or Mccalls pattern fits me very readily in a size 8 with minimal alteration (sometimes taking in waist a little, occasionally adjusting for slight swayback) I think I'll look at altering those in the future instead of fiddling around with the OnS.
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>>9680650

I’ve had issues with patterns from every source, to be honest.

Simplicity skirt pattern — this was too small and too tight despite picking the right size from the envelope
Gosurori OP — the bust was just right and the waist too big, the sizing table indicated it should be the other way around, plus the front rode up a lot and the armholes were too tight. No issues with the back pieces, though.
McCalls top — bust too tight. Armholes way too big, though really should have expected that as I’m Asian and have this issue with store-bought western clothes.

Only made a dress once that fit perfectly, it was a gosurori princess seam jsk.

I just got ahold of Reader’s Digest guide to sewing this year (I know, I’m late to the party) and there’s a whole section devoted to how to check if your body measurements match up with the pattern’s. I might start doing that form now on since I apparently have no loyalty and switch between pattern companies all the time, and apparently none of them ever use the same body type as mine so nothing will ever fit without alterations anyway.

In some of the previous handmade threads, some anons have said they basically use OnS for inspiration and use their own patterns/slopers. I’m not really skilled enough for that, but I guess if it fits you that badly you might keep that idea in mind. Something about OnS/gosurori being mainly aimed at younger Japanese girls, so the patterns tend to be easier, and the size “models” tend to be flat-chest, shorter girls.

As a tangent, the next pattern I’m making is a Vogue pattern marked as average difficulty. Definitely going to doublecheck the pattern measurements and make adjustments (and a mockup) before I start, I’d hate to find out at the end if the darn thing doesn’t fit me.
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The cover for OnS 12, I'm really excited! The apron comes in a heart version too, it looks like. And a full length view of the Queen of Hearts dress. It looks like an op + a detachable neck ruff thing. I wonder if the overskirt will be detachable as well. I will definitely want to make this one right away!
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>>9680650
The biggest fit issues I've run into with OnS has been length-related, like sleeves and bodice length. I often have to add a good 2 inches to both, but that's not very complicated. I also end up taking in the waist by a few cm on most pieces but that could just be a matter of me preferring things more fitted than the designers intended, since according to the chart I'm exactly an M.

Western patterns on the other hand require so much alteration that I always end up asking myself if it's really worth it to buy from Simplicity et al. at all anymore. Even when I go down a size from the recommendation I still have to significantly take in the back, the armholes, the overbust and the waist just so it doesn't look like I'm wearing my husband's shirt. With Burda I always have to take out several inches from the underbust/waist and upper back. And then I still have to add a few cm to the sleeves!
Out of every pattern company I've tried, OnS fits me by far the best even though I'm a lanky German orangutan. It's weird.

>>9681117
Definitely make a mockup! Altering fit on an almost-finished piece is super annoying, especially if you have to make any changes to the shoulders or armholes. I've done it and it's not fun.

>>9681673
That heart apron is so cute!
But the way they overlined Midori's lips in the Queen of Hearts outfit makes her look like a little kid who got into her mother's makeup stash.
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>>9681721

Quick question, what do you do with your mockups afterwards? All I can think of is if I made a mockup of every dress I'll ever make, that's a lot fo crappy unfinished bits of clothing lying around, even if I omit the skirt part (kind of unnecessary in lolita since the skirt is always so huge anyway).


>>9681673

I don't share your excited for the Queen of Hearts OP, but I gotta admit that's a really interesting dress. I had gotten to expect the same old repeat patterns from OnS by now. Glad to see they're adding some new interesting designs into their offerings.
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>>9681737
I wish I had a good answer to that, but really I just leave them lying around for a while until I toss them out. They're usually made out of scrap fabric so they're not wearable on their own. Sometimes I recycle the larger pattern pieces into smaller pattern pieces for a different mockup. If there were a lot of alterations I take them apart anyway, because it's easier to transfer changes to a paper pattern if everything can lay flat.
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This is going to be a little bit of a weird question, but for people who make quilted/patchwork panels on your outfits: do you do batting and a back to the quilted section, or do you just line the entire skirt, and let that cover your weird section with all the seams? I feel like fully quilting one section would make the garment hang weird because it would be heavier in one spot

(Mori seamstress, so patchwork ahoy)
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>>9681744

I see. Nice to know, I had a plan on saving up the mockup to recycle as stuffing for cushions once I no longer had any use for it, just wanted to hear if other people are treating theirs differently. Thank you for answering!
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>>9681737
I save them as pattern pieces for when I make the pattern next time.

I think the fabrics they chose for the Queen of Hearts OP are kind of ugly, but I think it could be made into a very pretty classic piece with the right choices.
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>>9682051

I don't think I've made the same pattern twice, I get bored too easily. I'll save this idea for when I finally find a dress cut I like a lot. Thanks for the idea.

Yeah, now that you point it out, I think I mostly dislike the flat red fabric they used for the chest, and the cheap-looking metallic lace trim. It's certainly an interesting cut, I'd like to see if other girls can make it with nicer materials.
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>>9681819

Non-mori here, taking a stab at your question anyway in the spirit of discussion.

Consider patch pockets. It’s pretty much a patch that’s only applied to one part of the skirt. The extra weight doesn’t distort anything much at all, and no one ever really bothers to compensate for adding it. So long as you aren’t doing stuff like adding triple layer of heavy denim onto a silk chiffon floating skirt I’d say you’re fine to patch just one side of the skirt and not bother doing anything to the other side.

I’ve rarely seen anyone try to add batting to a skirt unless it’s for a method like trapunto or some outright artsy creations. I mean, think about it practically. Blankets are nice and all but imagine dragging one everywhere you go, it’s going to get heavy and annoying. If you want a skirt to be warm, I think it’s easier to back/line it with fleece rather than go for batting.

I have seen quilted (with batting) vests, though, if that’s something that interests you.
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I'm going to Tokyo next spring, are there any physical stores where I can look for back issues of OnS?
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I got pic related second hand and the elastic in the shoulders is stretched out and needs replacing. Anyone done this before? How best should I do this? I don't want to just start taking a dress apart and ruining it.
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What are the best places to buy fabric?
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>>9685253

The fashion district, apparently. If you have access to one.

Alternatively, www.nippori-tomato.com/onlineshop/ carries almost all of the prints you see in OnS. You can also find a lot of taobao shops that import the print, but I don't find buying off taobao to be much cheaper, since they need to import it from Japan and then resell it on taobao at a profit.
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>>9685253
ditto to the fashion district. however i am in bumfuck nowhere so i have to order my fabric online for the most part.

mood fabrics is well known and honestly has really nice fabrics. pretty pricey though at times but the selection is amazing and they do sell some designer fabrics. definitely worth checking out imo if you haven't already.

also google fabric stores in your area. you might be surprised what you might find.
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>>9685312
>>9685845
Thanks! But I'm new to fashion and only recently became interested after inheriting a crap load of sewing stuff like a machine table everything you'd need I think from a relative who passed away, what is a "fashion district"
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>>9685863
Big cities have entire sections of the city that are dedicated to everything you need to make garments, including specialty fabrics, trims, notions, etc. (New York and Los Angeles are probably the most famous)
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>>9685872
Oh, thanks! I'm rural but will keep this in mind. I'll look up nearby cities to see if they have em.
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>>9684969
I did this more than a dozen times while buying things from Wunderwelt. Do you have any sewing experience? The best way is to memorize the way it was sewn an then replicate it later. I'm not sure how to explain since every dress is different, but I'd suggest that you record the process of "unsewing" it if you're not familiar.
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got a really nice sewing machine from my grandmother who passed away, decided getting really into sewing like she was will be a good occupation of my time and honor to her. What are some supplies I would need, other than fabric?
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>>9686701

First, get your machine in order. If it doesn't sew or is missing parts, send it to a repair shop. If you don't know how to make it sew, get lessons. Try to find/buy the user's manual and the service manual while you're at it. Make sure the thing can run and you know how to make it go where you want before you try to make anything.

Your first projects have to be simple totebags and/or pillowcases. So you'd need:
- fabric and thread (supplies)
- Scissors, maybe thread snips (Don't use your scissors to cut anything other than fabric, paper dulls scissors like you wouldn't believe).
- Bobbin (and matching thread)
- seam ripper (I mean, it's easier to just start over and chuck the fabric, it's not like you're sewing with anything expensive at this point, right? But I guess sometimes the fabric is really cute and you would rather unpick the stitches and reuse the fabric? idk)
- I suppose you might need a ruler and something to mark the fabric with (I like the fabric marking pens that wash out with water)
- An iron. You should start the habit of pressing fabric even if you're only making totebags/pillowcases.


After tote bags and pillowcases, you can try rectangle skirts, then start working your way up to more complicated things. At this point definitely get ahold of the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing as a reference book. Pick up the rest of the tools you need from the instructions for whatever you're making.

Don't start buying tools all willy nilly until you need them, otherwise you just stash them someplace and by the time you need them you'd have forgotten where you placed that bodkin or buttonhole maker doodad or whatever.
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>>9687242
No just most gulls buy stuff when it's on sale and probably don't really need the item at that time, so we stash it away in our sewing horde and forget where we put it or that we already had it.
At one time I have 15 pairs of scissors and 6 seam rippers and can usually find maybe 2 pairs of scissors and 2 seam rippers.
Then if we talk fabric I have yards of stuff I bought cause it was cute but have never used
>>
>>9687274
Don’t respond to obvious bait.
>>
What’s the best way to have an organza/chiffon/similar fabric overskirt? Should it be gathered the same amount as the main skirt, more gathered, less gathered?
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>>9687284
Eh, it's not uncommon to build up a stash that will last your lifetime and then some.
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>>9685312
Thanks for this! I'd been bookmarking those fabrics from Taobao and Chinese Etsy sellers. Do I need a shopping or forwarding service to buy from them? Even with google translate I can't find anything about shipping overseas.
>>
>>9687362
For many people working with textiles, it's a bit like how many people stock up on games when there's a steam sale and never or rarely touch them. It's not uncommon for there to be thousands upon thousands hours of playtime that goes untouched.

Difference is that fabric and yarn can actually be turned into something useful and doesn't lose worth over time. I inherited a bunch of yarn from my great grandmother and it's still as good as new.
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>>9687370
Anon please, don't waste your time. You're not going to change his mind and as long as someone keeps responding to his bait he'll keep posting it. He'll likely respond to your post with some variation of "hurhur women are stupid" no matter what you write, because that's what he's here for.
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>>9687370
They weren't talking about fabric, it was about tools, like scissors. If you're going to compare it to something at least have your comparison make sense. The way she described it would be like buying more game controllers of the same style and brand than you need because you keep losing your controllers.
>>
>>9687320
>Do I need a shopping or forwarding service to buy from them?

Yes, you do.
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>>9687399
Not her, newb as well, could you explain this to me? I have no idea what you are talking about I'm afraid. What is a forwarding service?
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>>9687401
It's a service that will receive your order from the seller and then send it to you. It's useful when the seller can't ship internationally.

I suggest you read more about it on Google before trying, though.
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>>9687418
Thanks, will do. Have a princess
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>>9666669
I would get a summer and winter one. You can probably find some easier patterns to start with. I used 11 to make some half-blouses, and I made a fleece some from a pattern in 10. Another project or so, and I'll be ready for nice fabric.
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>>9687468
Er, fleece robe, not some. Sorry.
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>>9687468
What are half-blouses? Google gives me pictures of sarees which I don't think is what you're talking about.
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>>9687684
A Blouse that ends in the middle of your body instead of going all the way down to the waist. It's great to use on hot days under a JSK.
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>>9687684
It's a blouse meant to be worn under a jsk, so the sleeves and neckline are finished nicely, but the waist hem is short and simpler. Add "lolita" to your search and one should come up.
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>>9687309
I think a bit more gathered (and thus a longer strip of fabric) would be best. will you be attaching the overskirt to the skirt itself or do you want to make it detachable? personally I prefer chiffon, as organza doesn't drape as nicely
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>>9687692
>>9687694
Ahh okay! When I google it + lolita I just get pics of regular lolita blouses from Taobao but I know what you're talking about. I never gave much thought to those because it doesn't get that hot where I live lol
I think I know which pattern you used, too. The gathered one, right?
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>>9687725
43, which is probably the one you think. And it can get pretty warm here, so half blouses are good. What anons are saying about having to add 2" length to the bodice holds true.
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>>9687697
Probably detachable to make the dress more casual if need be, what would be the best way to go about that?
>>
Reply to anon asking for capelet pattern in another thread: add http: double slash postila dot ru slash post slash 24487592

I made this with old rose wool and gold lame thread (the pink is more visible irl, might get rid of the button, add a color, and a silk ribbon to tie it.). Not sure how I fucked up this picture this hard, but for reference, the corset skirt is black, the cut sew underneath is purple (not meant to be coorded together with the capelet). Works well over a simple blouse, and for summer, go with cotton/silk blends if it's too hot for a blouse.

Here are some others from pinterest, going to make more pastel mixed with lame, as well as simple black and gray. (tried to add a bunch of links but 4chan thinks they're spam. Just mess around some on pinterest and you'll find patterns with charts galore for capelets and boleros.
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>>9688307
add a collar, not a color
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>>9688307
Crochet inspo. Sizes and styles can be altered depending on material used.
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Anyone have a link to patterns, specifically dresses? Want to get some ideas for my own custom dress patterns.
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>>9688452
Anon... assuming you mean lolita dresses, they're in the OP
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>>9688465
Not really the kind of dress patterns I'm looking for, I have been looking through em though because it's got great stuff. I'm trying to find more casual jfash. Blouses skirts shorts and overalls would also be helpful, but I've found some decent stuff through google. Just wandering if any of you know downloads or pdfs or whatever with more variety., not that the OP isn't great
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>>9687876
most detable ones I know close with ties, but you can also add a hook and eye or use snaps even. don't forget to add a waistband to it (you could do a regular waistband or elastic or if you want it with ties, you can make the waistband of the ribbon you want to use).
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>>9689400
finding J-fashion patterns is a lot more difficult if it's not lolita or very very casual loose dresses.

I would reccomend buying cheap clothes you like, inspect how they are made and if it's a very damaged piece you can just cut them apart along the seams and trace over the separate pieces.

you could also try to find patterns in western magazines that look like the pieces you want to make.
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>>9689400
They're pretty generic patterns, it's not like generic jfash is some mystical specialised beast and basic knowledge of pattern drafting would be the best way to have an idea of what patterns are being used for what
>>
>>9689415
>>9689418
Well now I just don't know lol
>>
Any tips on Frankensteining an OP (it's not a rare print that costs several hundred dollars on the resale market) into a skirt? I love the print and the width is no problem, but because I'm tall the waist sits on my ribcage, and it's looks faintly retarded/age-player-ish, as if I'm trying to dress like a toddler. It's a question of silhouette more than the print. There's enough fabric and lace in the bodice to make a waistband, and if that's too finicky I can find a complementary color. I'm just sad about the sleeves, since they're lovely and also fit well. Wondering if I can keep them as is and frankenstein a blouse or bolero with complementary fabric or thread too. The print is fairly mat.

Does anyone have any experience with this? Tips and tricks?

If anyone's mad about defiling brand: I've learned my lesson and am not buying OPs from this brand again, only skirts and JSKs with adjustable straps.
>>
>>9689427
Why not replace the bodice with plain fabric and keep the sleeves and skirt? Or does the print not suit that?
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>>9689435
The print doesn't suit it, it's rather elaborate, the fabric is textured, and it would not look like an OP without the exact same fabric. That's why I'm doubtful about the sleeves, but I'll see how it works out. If the bolero/frankenblouse doesn't work, I can turn them into hairbows. I could sell it I guess, but I really love the skirt, the print, and want to wear it.
>>
Does anyone know of a place to see the Odekake Chocolate Chan scarf pattern from the GLB? (27 JP, 4 EN)
I've been looking for this for a while and even bought an old copy of 27, only for the pattern to be missing out of it.
I'd really like to knit my giftee a scarf since she loves AP and cats.
>>
>>9689421
Check out Hey Cut Sew for patterns. And look on Etsy too for people who sell pattern books from Japan. And learn how to do curved waist bands. I like using ship hull curves for that.
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>>9689697
Thanks, especially the japan partten book thing, i never thought about ordering them from another country haha i wonder if other countries will be good for that too.
>>
>>9689704
Sorry, one more question i forgot to ask since you have to buy pattern books. What are your thoughts on someone compiling as many of these into a PDF or something for us to drop in the op? I plan of amassing a huge collection on my computer scanning and buying patterns, would you like me to share them with you?? Is that even necessary do you think? OR is this just basically stealing someones potential profit and hurting people in the industry rather than helping people?
>>
>>9687876
>>9687309

Personally I like the peplum on Day Dream Carnival, it doesn't go all the way around the skirt, so it looks built-in and not like a seperate layer. It's hanging off a couple of thread bars which are visible once the underskirt is taken off, though, so maybe not so great if you're making a simple dress and don't have anywhere else to hide the thread bars.

Most other overskirts simply button or tie together in front. If you want to hide where it buttons together you can cover that part with a large bow and put the buttons behind the bow.
>>
>>9689707
>>9689400

nayrt. I think if the patterns were from really old publications/sites that were out of date or difficult to find, most people think you’re doing a service uploading them so anons like the above can finally find that one specific pattern that they really wanted to have.

If it’s a free pattern, the right protocol is to ask permission from the author and respect their wishes. If it’s a defunct website and the author is MIA, you could probably treat it like an out-of-date publication.

Paid patterns (especially ones that you can still currently buy) are generally a no-no, I’ve seen folks do sewalongs, and they sometimes post pictures of the page with the diagrams, but that’s usually as far as it’s tolerated. Hosting the patterns and instructions in full is certainly inviting some negativity.

Though, to be really honest with you, I don’t think they’re really necessary anyway. A lot of casual jfash is the same cut as Western fashion, you just need to change up the aesthetics. Make stuff in girly pastels instead of grown-up jewel tones. Or, use tomboyish cuts with solids but add cutesy buttons and put lace along the hem. Put a cutesy cutout or lace-up on stuff. Change your haircut. Get/make some large hairbows. Style yourself/your outfit cute and feminine instead of masculine and mature.

There’s only a few fashion likes lolita or vkei that really needed specific patterns, lolita because of the skirt/waist/detailing, and vkei just likes weird cuts. That’s why OnS and gosurori can gain so much traction, while people rarely try to track down patterns for, say, nanchatte seifuku, since they can just use a normal blouse pattern + normal pleated skirt pattern for it.

By the way, there’s other jfash patterns in OnS, but only one or two in each volume. Thought you’d like to know it’s there at least.
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>>9689707
I'm pro-piracy in general. I think it lets people discover new things they never would have tried if it cost money. And in the end, I do think people will spend money to support an artist they like. I would honestly use your pdfs to decide if I wanted to buy a book or not, because I don't like pdf patterns. And yeah, there are some who will take advantage, but in the end I think it's better to have that information out there. Sage for blog post.
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>>9689707
nayrt but I would like that
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>>9689448
Why not add a waistband or sash into the op to add length?
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>>9690598
I'm not skilled enough yet to do that and not mess it up. Am going to switching out the zipper and turning part of the bodice into a waistband, with some interfacing between the fabric and lining to make sure it's stiff enough.
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>>9689564
I have the English 4, I could post a pic of the instructions for you
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>>9690723
dump incoming 1/5
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>>9690738
2/5
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>>9690739
3/5
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>>9690742
4/5
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>>9690744
5/5
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What are your favorite sew-alongs for Otome no Sewing JSKs/Skirts/OPs?

Needing some inspiration and my old go to bookmarks are dead.
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>>9690747
You mean, from the magazine or other people's?
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>>9690723
>>9690738
>>9690739
>>9690742
>>9690744
>>9690746
Thank you so much, anon! You don't know how happy you've made me.
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>>9690850
no problem, glad I could help! I'm looking forward to the pics in the SS thread!
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>>9690830
Other people's. I used to have a couple from OnS 1 and 2 bookmarked but no mas.
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>>9690738
>>9690739
>>9690742
>>9690744
>>9690746


Oh, that reminds me, I've asked for the same pattern last year and completely forgot to post my finished scarf. If you're the same anon, thank you a lot again for the pattern!
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>>9690738
i'm another anon who was interested in the pattern last year! i meant to post my FO in the thread but forgot until now. thanks a million! i'm happy to see more people knitting this
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>>9690882
It's actually for my comm's SS, not the cgl one, but I'll post a pic after they've received it!

>>9691284
Looks good! DId you have any issues with the pattern? It looks fairly straightforward, but some people online said they found it confusing.
>>
Any info out there on the construction of peaked caps?
I think it'd be a neat project
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>>9691297

The pattern was indeed a bit confusing, I'm not that happy with how the head came out due to the measurements given in the pattern, but I think I managed to fix the problem I had with it with some additional stitching. Otherwise, the body was easy.
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>>9691363
any tips? not that anon but i think i might make one now too
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anyone want a hard copy of ONS 3?
https://egl.circlly.com/auctions/otome-no-sewing-vol-3
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>>9690683
So you'd rather destroy the top? I don't get it. Why not try and if doesn't turn out, then destroy the top.
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>>9691284
This is awful...
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Does anyone have any recommendations for getting custom fabric printed, especially in dark colors? I know some indie brands use spoonflower, but I've heard they have issues with printing black.
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>>9691788
some fabric places such as mood fabrics do custom printed fabric but unless you're ordering a bunch of yards it's pretty pricey.

https://www.moodfabrics.com/custom-fabric-printing
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>>9690747
>>9691144
Would you prefer blogposts with images or videos? I’m thinking about recording some of my future projects but am not sure which way to go. It’s easier to just take photos but people keep telling me YT is ~the future~ so idk.
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>>9691843
fuck videos man. I really hate that every tutorial has to be a fucking youtube video. Gimme text and photos any day.
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>>9691850
same.

pics and posts > yt
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>>9691144
>>9690830

I really like this girl's sewalongs, she keeps up a decent amount of activity so I'm hoping she continues to sew more

http://kittykanzashi.blogspot.my/search/label/dressmaking

There's quite a few otome no sewing stuff mixed in with all the other random stuff she makes. Definitely a high-waisted skirt, qi lolita dress and I think the sailor dress at least.
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>>9691843
I'd say go with photos. I really regret not having screencapped those posts I liked because there is something convenient about being able to scroll through someone's progress and corresponding pictures.

With videos you have to keep trying to find your spot, waiting for buffering and re buffering, and it's just a pain.

With sewing in general I prefer picture books and blog posts to videos any day.
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>>9691856
This is exactly what I was looking for!

You're a god among gulls, anon, thank you so much!

Unrelated-ish since it's not progress pictures, but I'm pleasantly surprised to see the A-line princess seams dress with wide collar sctually looks good on the body. I thought it looked akward in the magazine:

http://kittykanzashi.blogspot.my/2015/04/making-dress-blue-one-piece-lolita.html

really wasn't expecting it to look so elegant! Though that center front seam seems a little... Odd.
>>
>>9691859

lol. Thank the girl herself, drop a comment on her blog and encourage her to keep sewing.

I used to follow more blogs that did sewalongs, but a lot of them simply stopped updating. I'm basically just grateful this one girl decides to keep making a few things every year and updates her blog.

I don't think the original dress had the centre seam; this girl also buys vintage tanmono (kimono fabric) and turns them into clothes. She probably had to add a centre seam because kimono fabric is only ~36cm wide.
>>
Do you think a beginner seamstress doing sew alongs would be helpful? Obviously, my target would be other novices. I'd like to talk about things like materials, resizing patterns, and using diagrams in OnS. Also, the importance of sewing correctly, like pressing open your seams, even if you're just working on a toile.
>>
>>9691970

I'd say if you were sewing at otome no sewing level, you're already a few steps up from someone who is looking at Yumi King tutorials. So yes, it's probably helpful to someone out there. Plus it at least gets word of the magazine out to people who may not have heard of it yet, and it's always pretty cool to see how someone else interprets the same pattern in different fabric.

But really, if you run a blog, I'd say do it for yourself, not for others. You might not get a lot of feedback since girls who sew their own lolita are in the minority. But, it's always nice to have a photo album or a journal, for yourself to look back on a few years from now. You'll be able to see your progress, where you started, and it'll be pretty cool if you could also add an update on what happens to the dresses you made, whether something you thought you messed up ended up being the dress you wore the most, or you ditched it asap.
>>
>>9691970
>>9692159

....And after I hit submit, I realise you didn't even mention OnS, I just assumed it since the previous conversation was talking about OnS sewalongs. My bad. most of the points still stand, though.
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>>9692161
No, I mentioned OnS. You're right though, and I hadn't thought of it, that I'm not going to get a lot of positive feedback for a blog, so I need to do it for me. I have that attitude about meets, like, no one is going to give me cookies. But with meets, there's an event where people have fun, whether they say thank you or not. It will be different with a blog. I'll have to think about it. Thank you.
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>>9691859
This girl has some from OnS, but you'll need to use the translator. https://gotadebaunilha.blogspot.com/search/label/Costura
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>>9691284
holy shit that's adorable
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Do any of you have any information on hand sewing without machines? Books or videos? I am practicing hand finishing garments or just making garments entirely by hand, can't find a lot of information with google so I am hoping someone here is familiar with what I'm talking about. Pic related is the kind of stuff I'm hoping to learn more of on my own, at least as much as I can on my own that is. I am hoping there are some really good books on the subject specifically.
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More previews for ONS book 12!
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>>9692825
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>>9692826
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>>9692620
look for older, 'all subject covering' books (like from the 50/60/70 etc), most of the time they have a section for handsewing. I had a very big and heavy book where they had handsewing in it, but I lost it.

I started out with handsewing, though I wasn't that good at it, haha. the only thing I can tell you is to make small stitches, but I guess that's pretty obvious
>>
>>9692620

The Milanese buttonhole in your pic is more of a suits thing, not to say it isn't unheard of in women's clothes, but if you're interested in that, at least you'd want to focus on suit tailoring techniques instead of vaguely googling for "hand stitch dress method" or whatever.

As far hand finishing techniques for regular clothes go, I'd still suggest Reader's Digest, it does actually cover a fair amount of hand sewing techniques (seams and hems), and a bunch of other things (buttonholes, for eg) is covered for both sewing machine and by hand. At least you'd have the names of things to google for youtube vids after that, if you have trouble following the drawings.

You could also look into historical costume re-enactment instead of lolita, some of the more enthusiastic people get really into old sewing methods,
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>>9692825
Ty! I'm really excited to get this one!
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>>9692620
Look for information on "couture" sewing too. The term was originally used for pieces sewn by hand.
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>>9691859
You know why it looks odd right? She fucked it up, that piece is supposed to be cut on the fold. You can see on the mannequin there's no flare in the centre front seam like there should be if it was intended to be two pieces, it's a straight seam because that was supposed to be lined up with a straight fold. And the example picture shows a single front piece as well...
>>
>>9693074
>>9693074
I actually am looking into suit making, I really love men's clothing because of how simple it is. So I am definitely going to learn to specialize in it because if you're good at it and know people(like I know people, my uncle is in the business and I am trying to learn more on my own before he gets really serious about mentoring me so i don't waste his time and actually come off as someone who is passionate and as well read as he is) you can easily get 2-4 grand for a custom tailored suit. Unfortunately, my uncle is really busy so he doesn't have time to teach me as much, so I gotta learn as much as I can my myself and with classes, especially stitches and the names for them.

That said, I am obviously going to make girly clothes too, because I have the most fun making dresses. I just really appreciate the art of suit making and hand sewing in general i guess lol I'm really into couture in general.
>>
>>9693149
Oh also, is embroidery a great way to practice hand sewing?? Seems like it would be awesome for it and cheap to pick up
>>
>>9692825
>>9692826
>>9692828

Thanks for posting these, I finally ordered book 12 and I'm really hyped to get a closer look at the designs (I'm the anon who has to wait for Kino above).
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>>9693149
>>9693154

If all you want is to practice hand stitches, make samplers. It's just a square of cloth and you simply sew whatever stitch you're practicing, in one line from one side to the other. The more you practice the stitch the better you get.

As for what stitches to practice, you can look through whatever sewing book for a list and practice them all (I'm the anon who recommended the reader's digest but I guess you can use another book if you prefer). I'd focus on stuff other than seams -- learn the stitching for seams and at least practice until you can do a line reliably and join fabric together, but focus more on things like blind hemming, buttonholes, that little arrow thing that goes on high-stress areas (forgot what it's called, sorry), basically anything in the book that has a sewing machine and manual version, you want to practice the hand-sewn version. A lot of suit tailors and even couture studios do use sewing machines for sewing simple seams, it's all the other stuff that's more highly valued when it's done by a skilled hand than by machine.

You might also want to hit up the local library and see if they have any books on suits in general. Knowing what items your uncle is actually teaching you to make and how it's meant to be used can help.

The other skill you definitely want to pick up, is learn how to draft patterns. Most of the value in custom tailored suit is that the suit is custom made for that person. And that means drafting to that person's measurements, spotting fit problems, and fixing them.

Now, embroidery. It is a fun and relaxing pastime, but I feel like if you want to practice buttonholes, you should make buttonholes, not sew a loopy ribbon flower. The two are kinda similar but not really the same. Still, I don't want to discourage you from picking up a hobby, just do it if you like it. Besides, watching a flower form as you sew its petals and leaves makes for a nice break from sewing lines on a sampler.
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>>9693185
Thanks, great post! Appreciate it. Have a princess.
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I'm not sure if anyone could help me, but if I wanted to make my own design print for a dress in photoshop/sai, what would my dimensions have to be? How big/wide?
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>>9693816
Spoonflower has some guidelines, maybe start from there.

https://support.spoonflower.com/hc/en-us/articles/204444610-How-big-should-my-image-be-
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So.... this is kinda weird looking, right?

I'm still hyped for the jsk though. I imagine the bolero probably looks decent on some other dress. Or something.
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>>9694272
It looks very 1890s-1910s romanticized spice road / oriental. Meaning the jacket and JSK are inspired by two different cultures, but during that era the west was really entranced with Asia collectively and would purposely mix together as many different influences as possible to project their worldliness. It was, technically, a very good time for China and Japan in terms of trade and growth and it's also the era that Japan sort of got their "stuck" image of the west; their fascination of Victorian fashion. So creating a "mysterious orient" Lolita coord seems pretty sensible; there's enough historical layers to it to play around with for days.
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>>9694292

I actually meant aesthetically -- the way it's layered leaves a white triangle shape of the blouse, it looks heavy since it's three layers and yet the blouse is kind of mandatory because a patch of skin there would look really odd, the bolero looks kinda too long to do the keyhole neckline, which looks odd for cutesy lolita anyway. Or something, idk.

I'm not writing this off yet, I think the top would look really good on another jsk with a higher neckline and plainer front so the blouse can be removed without the outfit looking too odd, and the front would look less like a geometric mess. I think. Or maybe shortening the bolero front for the keyhole neckline look, idk.

Interesting note about the mysterious orient style, though. At least I understand mixing the collar with the sleeves, and this Miho Matsuda top much better now. Thanks.
>>
>>9694272
It looks especially off because of the amount of layers under the bolero. I think it'd look better with a different jsk that ends a bit lower and an open neckline (no blouse).
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>>9694272
>Click here

Ugh I hate it. Qi mixed with Wa in shit tier fabrics & construction. Awesome. But if you replaced the bolero/bodice/waist bow with a real kimono and obi, with the skirt in a less busy pattern, it could be cute. Or just the JSK by itself in better fabric minus the hideous waist bow.
>>
>>9694292
Wow, the dress in the picture you posted as an example of orientalism is absolutely horrific. Even the actual OnS pattern isn't that bad...
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>>9694567
I picked that as the example because the more historical ones are always a drawn model alone on a fashion plate; I wanted to show the "look" in context to everyone else wearing the "mainstream" fashion of the day.
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>>9694571
Like, seriously? There are results of historical clothes on the very first page of a google search for orientalism in Victorian fashion.

The example you posted sucks as a contextual example because it looks like a costume- it's not something anyone would ever wear. That was not the "look," the example you posted is a modern costume designer and production designer wanting to make a specifically bright and garish costume that would draw attention to the actress and make her stand out from the "mainstream" crowd that was costumed specifically in greys and neutrals to make the lead actress pop.

Costume design and fashion design are two very different arenas, anon. What you posted was a costume specifically designed to be outlandish, not an example of something made to be worn.
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>>9694625
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>>9694571
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>>9694571
An example of a historical costume.
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>>9694571
-
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>>9694571
--
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>>9694571
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>>9694625
Chill.
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>>9694451

I think the jsk by itself doesn't look half bad, especially in the photo >>9650576 posted. Looks like they did pretty well with the colour combination too, it's just when the qi-loli bolero goes on that it starts to look really odd (that, and >>9694272 is a photo of a printed page, so the filter + lighting + glossy pages are washing out some of the colours/texture)

I'm still making mine without all extra bows, though. I might just be boring.
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>>9694272
This looks really frumpy
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What is that method of using both facing and lining like Mary Magdalene uses called? When I look up tutorials for lining with facing all the results I get are for lining OR facing.
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>>9698197

Like this?

https://sewoverit.co.uk/betty-dress-lowering-the-neckline-lining-the-bodice-adding-a-gathered-skirt/

Alternatively, this one doesn't change the lining, it just adds a facing over it:

http://www.sewmamasew.com/2013/08/button-front-cambie-dress-tutorial/
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>>9691294
underrated finished product

adorable, anon!
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Japanese handmade master race

https://minne.com/@chante
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>>9699199
This is kind of ugly.
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>>9699199
> one side longer than the other
> belt pieces aren't level
> lace are entirely different qualities
> Obviously bad seams

...I hope you are joking
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>>9691788
Spoonflower has gotten better about blacks, but if you've got a lot of different darker shades, be sure to make sure the colors contrast a lot with one another. I tried to do some subtle darker greys and they all just blended into each other when I printed.
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>>9699264

Actually it's the more absorbent fabrics that bleed into one another, especially if you use ink-heavy colours (like darker or more saturated colours = more ink) and the details are very fine (like 2-5 pixel width lines/dots). I did a couple of test swatches with some fine tone-on-tone background pattern. The cotton swatches came back with a solid navy blue and solid black background but the polyester fabric swatches came back with the background pattern clearly visible.

So, going high-contrast with one element using less ink than another is one idea to keep in mind, the other is to make sure your design elements aren't so delicate that losing a couple of pixels around every everything is going to obliterate the design.

To answer >>9691788's original question, though, a lot of print-on-demand places can't really handle printing black anyway. Take a look at indie brands, most of the black prints aren't actually black (some girl got roasted in the ita thread for wearing solid, opaque black with a dark grey "black print" taobao dress).
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>>9698637
You are my hero, anon. The first link is exactly what I was trying to find, but I'll be curious to try the second method too! I thought maybe this method had its own name.

Honestly one of the things I think a lot of people overlook when making their first lolita OPs and JSKs is the difference the lining will make. I really want to make a cotton sateen dress that has that wonderful body of an MM or IW piece.
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Someone just posted at the sewing group the full list of patterns available in the latest issue of Ons

https://gotadebaunilha.blogspot.com/2017/11/scan-otome-no-sewing-book-12-book12.html
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>>9700323
Looks like they aren't using Risa anymore.
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>>9700350
Probably because she's actually famous-famous now. Our little baby is all grown up now.
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>>9700323

Thanks, anon. My copy's still in the post somewhere. Though at this point I'm already considering drafting the wa dress myself instead of using that one.
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>>9700323
I'm loving the Alice set. I need to buy this.
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>>9700652
I feel like I'm better off drafting from daydreaming goldfish than using that pattern, it looks kinda wonky but i can't put my finger on why
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>>9699199
this looks like an ozz croce mess.
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>>9700323
Thanks for sharing! I was unsure whether I should or not buy this issue, but I guess I'll skip it and wait for BOOK 13
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Okay, so this is a stupid question, but I’m having trouble figuring out what a pleated lolita skirt/dress would look like laid out (like, how would one make one). I can do gathers and ruffles like a champ, and I’ve done a simple pleated skirt before, but I don’t know how to keep the lolita silhouette with pleating involved.
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>>9700808

I wouldn’t put much stock in the sample pic, Midori always looks like she’s swimming in every OnS, she must be pretty small so the clothes always sit a little wonky on her anyhow.

I originally thought like the other anon that the wa jsk was similar to Meta’s cut, but the OnS cut has a much narrower waistband. I was originally going to put the walolita bodice on top of a high-waisted skirt before I realised that the OnS version has a much longer bodice, so I guess I’ll need to draft my own after all. Oh well, at least it was useful to see how to do the facing and the front border, since I don’t own any actual walolita I can copy off.

The OnS version looks like the neckline dips really low, and the jsk probably isn’t wearable without a blouse underneath. Maybe that’s what looks off to you?

On my part I’m still pretty happy I got the book, but I have to admit I want to make a lot of changes to the patterns. I had no interest in the Red Queen's dress, but I think I can use the pattern pieces differently and turn it into a lace overdress.
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>>9701178
With regular box pleats, an a line lolita silhouette is definitely achievable. Knife pleats wouldn't accommodate a petticoat quite as well.
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>>9701216
Looking at the pattern I know why; it's the narrow waistband combined with the poor model fit - in the worn photos the bodice looks like it's wanting for boobs to fill it out because the waistband is a bit below underbust but not quite on the natural waist, and it's baggy at the sides.
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There’s a few different methods depending on end result you’re looking for.

Pic related is a tutorial for making a pattern for box-pleated A-line skirt. You do need to start with an A-line skirt pattern that’s already the right size.

For knife pleats, you can use the same tutorial and simply make all the pleats go in one direction instead of making them alternate.

Knife pleats on a rectangle skirt is also possible, but you need the space for it. You start with a rectangle that is at least 5x your waist. Pleat this down to your waist measurement — make the pleats really deep, they overlap at the back. Baste/pin down the length of the front fold of every pleat. At this point you can sew the top (waistband side) to keep it together. Then lay it down on a floor. Spread the hem side to make a circle shape (the back fold of the pleats will shift to accommodate the spread, which is why you only baste the front fold of the pleats). When you get the right flared shape, grab an iron/steamer and press all the pleats into place.

And then there’s the option of doing it like AP miniskirts, add a yoke to the top of the skirt, which takes care of the waist-to-hip flare, then you can use rectangle skirt, box pleats, whatever for the rest of the skirt.
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>>9700350
Good.
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one day, I will print this on fabric and make a cute jsk with it. Do some of you have sewing inspiration from non lolita related things too ?
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>>9699195
thanks a bunch anon! i'm happy you like it!
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I don't know how many of you are into hacking together mainstream patterns, but for those of you who are, Joannes is selling Simplicity patterns for a dollar each this week.
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>>9702050
As long as you're planning to turn it into a border print. Don't print it as a circle skirt, that'll look stupid and wrong.
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>>9702904
If I do it I will do it like you said, maybe I will make the closest to the center design into a waist tie or something like that
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Do you think it would be a good idea for a beginner to sew their own clothes withrout a sewing machine? Can I get a few tips on construction/material? I just want to make sweatshirts, and fluffy or poofy skirts.
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>>9705974
It won't be worth your time. You can pick up a working sewing machine at most thrift stores for like $20.
I've hand sewed since I was 7, and didn't learn machine till high school. I now hate hand sewing because the time it takes compared to how quick a machine can get stuff done is ridiculous.

Also while do-able, hand sewing doesn't have as strong of a hold as a machine. Items will rip at the seams easier.




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