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File: PicsArt_07-11-07.25.53.jpg (99 KB, 1024x1024)
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I'm remodeling my basement and I'm trying to replace a fixture with a ceiling fan but I'm having an issue.
There's 3 lights all wired to the same switch and I was hoping that behind the switch I'd find 3 hot wires nutted together with a tail so that I could install a 3 switch replacement but there was only one hot coming into the box. My idea is that I'll run up new wires from an existing electrical box close to the light where the fan will be and disconnect the ceiling box from the original switch
I'm no electrician by any means do y'all know if this is a good option?
Uhh... Yes. Just cap off the wires existing for the fan and run new 16/2 to the fan, fish down wall, to new switch. You can bum it off the outlet if you want, but it'd be easier to find a junction box in the attic.
Also I apologise in advance for my shitty diagram
It would be easier from the attic even though it's in the basement?
That is correct. If you reply again my denial will get hostile.
Well I appreciate the warning
If you're in the states, and it's a 15 amp circuit, you have to use 14 gauge wire or bigger (the lower the number the larger the wire).
Post a pic of the wiring for the current switch, I'll need more information before I can give any advice.
Standby taking pictures
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File: IMG_20180711_203843.jpg (1.21 MB, 3200x2400)
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Fuse box for the basement, top left is all the lights
File: IMG_20180711_203620.jpg (1.2 MB, 3200x1892)
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All 3 lights, far left will be the fan
Do you rent or own the place? If you own it or are allowed to make changes, how do you feel about wall mount wiring/electrical?
I own it, what do you mean by wall mount wiring? I don't really have any electrical experience but I can probably get something working, only thing is I don't want to remove too much drywall
>only thing is I don't want to remove too much drywall
As long as you don't mind being able to see conduit and junction boxes, wall mount sounds like what you're going to want. Wall mount is when you mount the electrical wiring, conduits, junction boxes, etc. on the drywall instead of inside of the wall, this usually isn't done on new construction, but it is frequently done when doing cheap (but still up to code) rewiring of existing structures.
Well I don't mind cutting in to mount the boxes and feed the wires I just don't want to have to rip out a lengthy piece from box to box , I was thinking just run the wire from the light box in-between the ceiling joists to the wall, taking a small piece out of the corner to make a pass through so I can slide it in between the wall joists down to a new box for the light which will be mounted on the same beam as the existing outlet so I can just drop some more wires down to it from the new box
does the cable going to the switch you posted go into a tube, or is is loose in the wall?
I couldn't see far up and it wouldn't budge out at all but it appeared to be loose
Looks like there's no avoiding wall mounting unless you want to tear down and replace drywall. Which light fixture is closest to the switch?
File: Deka Bluetooth Fan Demo.jpg (55 KB, 1280x720)
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cutting drywall and fishing wire is so last century. in 2018 you get fans with bluetooth or wifi or some dedicated remote control. if you wanna use a vintage fan, i'm sure they make controllers that you wire into the electrical box and give you the same functionality. i may have seen one such gadget at home depot last week, but i didnt investigate coz i was in a hurry.
The light on the far right of
>>1423981 closest to the door
It looked like that switch only has one wire (12/2) without a ground. It probably runs directly to the closest fixture. The incoming hot from your basement panel probably also runs to that same closest fixture and is switched there, and pig tailed to that light, then in series with the other two lights.

You need to figure out which of those 3 fixtures has that (incoming hot , switch wire). Hopefully the one you wish to replace is last in the chain.

That ceiling looks like it has the flat truss and there's a 2ft cavity above sheetrock.

Figure more of these things out.
Be sure you use a minimum of 12 gauge cable considering you have 20 amp breakers. I am assuming you live in the US.
To add, the reason I say hopefully the fixture in question is last in the chain is because it is easier to cut from the loop. Your op pic is what I go by. Leave that switch as it is, it powers those two lights. Find the middle in the chain and remove the wire between 2&3(fan). Now to find full unswitched power and create a new switch. Like in your op pic, find an outlet, make a hole for a switch directly above it so you're in the same stud "bay". Run wire up from outlet to new switch, run wire from new switch to fan. If you want lite/fan on separate switching you need 12/3 cable between switch an fan.

Your access hole needs to be on ceiling right above switch so you can drill through top plate. That ceiling cavity is prob big enough to throw it over to box.
Take down the light and take pics of the wiring going to it.
Would it be a bad idea to wire it directly to the outlet with no switch and put in a fan remote instead or maybe even just leave it on the outlet and only use the chains that are already on the ceiling fan?

pulling the cord on a ceiling fun IS a lot of fun. nice sound, nice feel; you feel like a god with so much speed and directional control.

and customizing the pull is amazing. i prefer butt plugs but aliens are good too.
>and run new 16/2 to the fan

holy fuck dont do this unless you want your house to burn down... on a 15 amp circuit yuou should be using 14/2. jesus fuck some people here are fucking stupid. you dont run a household light or ceiling fan on fucking 16/2. dumbfucks have no idea about wire sizes and amp ratings offering advice when they are fucking morons
>cutting drywall and fishing wire is so last century. in 2018 you get fans with bluetooth or wifi or some dedicated remote control

wow another fucking DIY moron. you stil have to run the electrical wires to POWER the fan, you dumb fuck.
File: wire already present.gif (30 KB, 912x394)
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> you stil have to run the electrical wires to POWER the fan

you mean these wires which are ALREADY PRESENT.

thats not what the OP was suggesting when he said all you need is bluetooth or wifi to use a fan when he suggested you dont need to cut drywall and run wires. did you even bother to fucking read the original one? hell you fucking quoted it. read before you type fucker

you're very confused. i was the one to suggest wireless control to avoid any kind of destruction/reconstruction, not OP. it would meet all his requirements with way less effort.
The problem is, even with the fan on a remote, without the lightswitch in there would be no power going to the remote to pass through to the fan which is why it needs to be hardwired wired off something else with continuous power
Incase anyone is still checking in on this thread, I changed an old light fixture out this afternoon in the basement and I didn't get any pictures because as so as it came loose it dumped some fantastic feeling fiberglass on my face and down my shirt BUUT I did get a chance to see the wiring, it was one white wire and a black/red wire coming into the box
Shouldn't there be one set of wires coming in from the switch and another going out to the other lights?
Either way here's another shitty diagram of what I think is going on behind the drywall
As soon as*
As soon as you can, get pics of the wiring, also, can you show pics of or describe the fan's internal wiring? If the fan's internal wiring allows, I have an idea that will make it so that you can have the fan's light turn on/off with the other lights, and control the fan speed with a wall mounted dial switch.

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