[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself


Thread archived.
You cannot reply anymore.


[Advertise on 4chan]


File: 20241010191336.jpg (3.7 MB, 4115x4200)
3.7 MB
3.7 MB JPG
>Wow, anon, that sure is a lot of plastic.
Last Thread: >>2855489

>Your print failed? Go to:
www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting

>Calibrate your printer.
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [32/03/90 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, these are just popular and available options.
All controversial printers and brands have been removed from the list for your safety.
DIY: reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>/tg/3dpg

>Where can I get things to print?
www.thingiverse.com/
thangs.com/
printables.com/
grabcad.com/
www.yeggi.com/
cults3d.com/
www.stlfinder.com/
google.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCAD
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

Legacy Pastebin (Last updated 1520 days ago): pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
#357
>>
File: IMG_E1398.jpg (3.01 MB, 4784x2864)
3.01 MB
3.01 MB JPG
Can anyone possibly identify what went wrong with the print in the pic? The print is Inland Hyper ABS printed at 260 C with a layer height of 0.16mm on a Creality K1 (I just used the stock profile for Hyper ABS, never had an issue like this using it before, but I also never printed anything this tall).
>>
>>2859841
Looks like warping
>>
>>2859841
That print can be saved with clamps and a heat gun.

The usual suspect would be enclosure but k1 has one so I'd try increasing nozzle size, disabling fan cooling or speed and/ or decreasing speed.
>>
>>2859841
The lid is on, right? Do those have an exhaust fan that runs constantly? If you can turn off the exhaust fan to let the heat build up better, that might be the way to go. They really should have an enclosure thermistor for this.
>>
How retarded would it be to convert my E5+ to a mercury one CoreXY but stick with marlin?
anyone here done the converstion?
I was thinking of CNC machining the towers and the stepper motor mounts
>>
>>2859391
>>2859550
have you tried moving the bad spool to a different AMS slot? could be there's a clog somewhere or the motors or feed gears(?) are worn?
>>
Thinking of trying 72d tpu which appears to be a tpu nylon composite, anyone tried that before? Seems interesting
>>
I want /diy/'s opinion on filament drying. My TPU is wet as fuck and its giving me pops and sizzles while printing, and horrible surfaces on the prints with lots of 'holes'.

I heard drying boxes have problems actually evacuating the moisture after evaporating it (and are somewhat expensive)

The other method is buy a much much cheaper temp/hygrometer and just put it in the oven or over the hotbed under a box. What are your 2 cents?
>>
File: 75-0601-W-2[1].jpg (487 KB, 1000x1000)
487 KB
487 KB JPG
>>2859893
drying boxes dont dry shit, they just slow down the moisture accumulation
get one of these. I dont know about other materials but for PLA it works great
>>
>>2859893
Sh02 has an exhaust vent you can open while the heater is on
>>
>>2859841
Looking at that pic before I read your comment my immediate thought was you probably used ABS.

Looks like the thin backing of the part contracted as the cylinder was cooling down and fucked your layer adhesion.

Consider making the back piece thicker if possible, or print as two separate pieces and implement some slot you can slide the cylinder into
>>
>>2859635
>considering they are 2K+ generally as a stand alone
A diode laser engraver? You can get a standalone engraver for under $200, or a 5W laser module for under $100. $2k can get you a 70W prosumer machine that can cut construction lumber.

>when our hs history professor said there are no new ideas the best we came up with was a language based on smell.
Making new ideas is easy. People do it all the time. Is the notion of making a new recipe, engineering a solution to an odd problem, or creating art so foreign to people these days?
>>
>>2859893
Food dehydrator/oven (depending on the filament's drying temperature), then store the filament in pressure-tight containers (something with a tightly-clamped gasket seal and IP67+ rating) with abundant dry silica gel. Print from a dry box or re-dry regularly.
>>
>>2859635

Idk, it's a big if, but if they could make it reliably print at 400-600ms that would certainly be new and boundary pushing enough and could certainly appeal to the retard print farm crowd pumping out articulated dragons twice as fast
>>
>>2859932
What kind of lens do I need for a 70w laser to cut timber from 100 meters away? Asking for a friend
>>
File: Osaka the fool card.png (1.59 MB, 1034x1366)
1.59 MB
1.59 MB PNG
'Sup /3dpg/?

I am the new owner of a resin printer. I've got two FDM printers already, but have essentially no first hand experience with resin.

What slicers would you recommend?
Anything you would tell yourself back when you were starting?
>>
>>2859944
You basically have to try lychee and chitu, just pick whichever you prefer. If you got an elegoo you can try voxeldance tango since they come with a free lifetime license but I'm probably the only one that uses it solely because I like dropping in every part of a split model and just having all of the plates on screen at the same time, if you didn't then the monetization on it is cancer. Calibrate your settings, the recommended 30-40s for a lot of base layers is way too high and you basically have to chisel the shit off the build plate, alternatively there is a magnetic flex plate you can get. Learn to do your own supports because presupports are retarded half the time and it's tiring to constantly clean up support bumps. Don't waste you money on standard resin, it's trash. Hollow everything you can.
>>
>>2859954
I'm a CAD monkey. Half the time I build the supports into the model to begin with for FDM.
>standard resin
?
>>
I'm super new to Fusion, do y'all have any tips on making/exporting a bunch of variations of a similar design efficiently? Picrel, I made a router bit holder in a few shank sizes, and someone requested another size, as well as an option for all the sizes to put magnets in the base. So far my workflow has been just changing the hole size and exporting for each size, which was fine for 3 sizes, but it kinda starts to get unwieldy if I'm now doing 8-10 variations, and uploading 3mf/stl/step for each.
>>
>>2859964
By the time you figure the scripting out you could have done it manually. I would make it two parts with diameter variation in the inner hollow cylinder with little fins/threads etc. that locks into place when you twist it. It won't look as good but it'll take up less space to store extra diameters. That would be easy enough in openscad/build123d. The few times I've used fusion I couldn't retroactively change diameters but maybe you can if the hole is the last operation.
>>
>>2859962
resin comes in different flavors, standard is the cheapest and very brittle after curing so abs-like/tough is my go-to, I can't comment on water washable or plant based resins though.
>>
>>2859944
>>2859954
>You basically have to try lychee and chitu
PrusaSlicer also does resin, and without ecosystem restrictions.
>>
>>2859964
You can set the diameter of the hole as a variable and then cut it out, that way you just have to change that environment variable.
You still need to export manually though.
I haven't used fusion in a bit, but one I remember one format for export not using cloud services and the others using it, the cloud based ones are much slower, might be worth it for faster exports.
>>
File: resinprintingisfun.jpg (1.38 MB, 3840x1095)
1.38 MB
1.38 MB JPG
>>2859944
Respect the resin. Everything bad it does to you is cumulative. Lots of people starting out get it on their hands and find, "oh this is nothing, why do people bitch about this?" Every exposure makes you more sensitive to it. The unnoticed drop today is a painful chemical burn further down the road. The smell you don't mind today becomes a headache inducing and throat-burning miasma after living with it for awhile. Don't be a lazy retard, use your gloves, wash your hands, keep the burning cancer juice off of your skin and out of your lungs. Resin is lots of fun, until it isn't.
>>
>>2859964
In SolidWorks we have "configurations" which can be set to change any and all dims via an excel spreadsheet if necessary. Way faster.
>>
>>2860004
I plan on constructing essentially a fume hood for my workspace.
>>
File: resin.png (295 KB, 277x517)
295 KB
295 KB PNG
>>2860004
>resin
>>
File: billbox.png (382 KB, 1598x836)
382 KB
382 KB PNG
just modeled this weekly pillbox for mah wife. I'll post it printed tomorrow
>>
>>2860017
Great idea, anon.
>>
Is there a way in blender to model "negative space" inside of an object, so that it won't print with infill?

I made a couple of things for my department at work, which the rest of the company now wants, but I said I'm not doing the work to print/finish/deliver everything but they could have the stls if they wanted, but I'd like to hide a "designed by: anon" inside the prints themselves so on the surface it looks plain but if you held it up to the light you could see a lithopane effect that would have my name in it
>>
>>2860024
Can't you just offset the surfaces inwards?
>>
>>2860024
Isn't that easy enough to catch and remove in the slicer?
>>
File: bba2.jpg (39 KB, 680x523)
39 KB
39 KB JPG
>>2859825
OP, can you add PTC Creo to CAD list under "Free to anyone"? They offer free unlimited Edu version, that doesn't require edu e-mail or some other bullshit. Just provide fake info and you get installer download with license key.

I've checked it and as an Onshape user I feel like at home (duh, same corp), but without (((cloud))).
https://www.ptc.com/en/products/education/free-software/creo-college-download
>>
File: chewed filament.jpg (3.92 MB, 4032x3097)
3.92 MB
3.92 MB JPG
>attempt 36 hour print
>extrusion failure after 24 hours
>turns out the extruder wheel chewed up the filament to the point it started to flatten and spit fibers which caused it to not fit through the hole and jam
>clear jam
>cut the maximum retraction count and minimum extrusion distance window in half
>attempt print again
>extrusion failure after 19 hours
>extruder wheel chewed up the filament again
The actual root cause is almost certainly that the filament I'm using has been sitting out for months and months so it's in relatively poor condition, but it works just fine for smaller prints and I'd like to use it up.
Should I just disable retraction entirely? It's only retracting 5 times per layer, but I guess even that is too much compared to how much is getting extruded per layer.
>>
>>2860102
Is your extruder gear slipping? Or slipping up? Or worn? Or is the stepper motor itself slipping from not being able to provide enough torque (voltage set way too low) . Every one of those things happened on my old ender 3 pro.
>>
>>2860109
>Is your extruder gear slipping? Or slipping up? Or worn?
How could I tell?
>Or is the stepper motor itself slipping from not being able to provide enough torque (voltage set way too low)
This doesn't seem like the sort of problem that would appear suddenly after being fine for years.
>>
>>2860087
So long as I don't forget, yes, will do.
>>
>>2860102
Have you tried drying your filament? I mean like 50°C with forced air. Even PLA can get wet.

If it's a direct extruder, I'd question if it might be heat-creep, as the print progresses it gets too warm in the extruder and the filament there gets soft enough to get chewed up. To fix this you'd need better cooling on your main heat-sink, maybe slowing down some E speeds to reduce the force on the extruder like you do when printing TPU.
>>
>>2860116
I know it's possible to dry filament in an oven at low temperature, but I haven't tried it yet. This is the first time I've experienced such an issue with old filament, the worst I've had prior was just it randomly snapping like dry spaghetti as it came off the spool.
It's a bowden tube extruder, not direct.
>>
>>2860102
It looks like you have a single gear extruder. Get a dual gear extruder. It applies pressure more evenly
>>
ok so i have an ender 3, and it works it's fine.
but, i've been wanting to get a bambu for a while. like the quality of shit that comes off it is insane and i'm tired of messing around with my ender.
i had mentioned it to a guy i work with and he was like "oh i've been interested in 3d printing" and i sent him stuff about my ender and i was so hyped i could sell this one and then i could totally have an excuse to get a bambu. but then he backed out the other day and now i dunno.
should i just buy it anyway and have my ender collect dust? maybe gift it to my dad or something? i mean its not that expensive, its like a hundred something bucks. but still.
>>
>>2860128
buy it, use the ender as parts for a laser engraver or some other cnc machine or robot
>>
>>2860128
>just two more weeks
As long as you got a working machine, i'd wait. At least till bambu reveals if their "rumoured" machine is a revision or a whole new printer. It's obviously gonna happen before christmas, so it's not that bad.
>>
>>2860139
>bambu reveals if their "rumoured" machine
i haven't heard anything about this?
>>
>>2859825
Anyone got a 3D printer to explicitly sell shit?
>>
File: wwe.png (658 KB, 856x782)
658 KB
658 KB PNG
printed this lame thing for a coworker, what the fuck happened to the supports?
it printed overnight and I woke up to this, miraculously it was able to keep layering on top of the detached shit until it ended up working as a support anyways. how did this happen and how do I stop it from happening again? if it hadn't "fixed" itself it would've been catastrophic.
>>
>>2860066
so easy that you don't know how to do it, it seems
>>
>Makerworld introducing an exclusive models program
This hobby's golden years lasted roughly 3 weeks
>>
>>2860156
Sort of. Got my printer to prototype products. Was using an ender 3 and sold it at a loss to get a bambu P1P. That was about the same time I realized I could bypass injection molds if it came down to it. When the quest 3 came out I started selling a custom adapter I built and probably made $1,500 in a month. Was getting like 6 orders per day and could only make like 7 sets per day so sprung for a P1S. That business ended up drying up which I anticipated. Now I have those 2 machines and 2 a1 minis. Currently have a couple 3d printed products that are my own designs. Two of them sell maybe every other week so I make about $20 a month profit on those products. Third product sells about once a day or every other day and brings in maybe $250 profit per month. Currently working on another product that im hoping will bring in about $750 profit per month.

So I didn't initially set out to sell 3d printed products, but now im starting to sell 3d printed products. Would like to have my machines running nonstop but the reality is that they maybe run at full capacity for a couple days until I have enough inventory for a couple months. Dont have any experience with using other peoples models and my products are super niche. The big thing keeping me from growing is creating the right products. I think theres a lot of people that get 3d printers to make money and just end up printing slop that 800 other people are making that never get sold. I think I have only seen one successful print farm of someone selling slop. All the other print farms have their own products that they dont tell anyone about.
>>
Moved my PLA embrittlement experiment to a new box. Just 3 hours of ozone rusted up some brand new bolts.
>>
>>2860182
Adapter pieces like that really are the way to go. Personally I'm planning on designing a little two-wheel bracket to bolt onto my water-blaster shaft so it has a fixed distance to what I'm water-blasting. Less force required to hold it up too.
>>
>>2860210
Really any type of functional print. Forgot I also have a B2B product im working on also that could potentially do well. Would be nice to make $100 profit per month on that one.

My goal is to just design a ton of these niche functional prints. Knocking it out of the park with one product is nice, but im thinking with enough swings a good amount will get to first or second base and a couple might be homeruns. Developed a product that wasn't 3d printed and it flopped after spending a couple grand and hundreds of hours on it. The product I developed in 30 minutes and with $50 is running laps around it and never imagined it would get this many sales.
>>
>>2860152
Why the question mark?

>>2860157
>catastrophic

>>2860176
The golden age of bots or remixed without logo? If anything it shows how desperate they were to make their site appear more populated.
>>
>>2860214
>wasn't 3d printed
Did you try to get it injection moulded? If so, what's the process of getting a limited injection moulding run done?

I've come to the conclusion that there's barely any situations where injection moulding is superior to 3D printing, besides scaleability. Injection moulding can't make thick cross-sections due to shrinkage, so even if it can nominally handle more pressure per area, you can add more actual load-bearing area to a 3D print. If you are running up against a strength bottleneck, then you can try reinforcing it with carbon strands, bolts, or other hardware. If that fails, you can do limited-scale stuff by 3D printing a plug or mould, laying carbon/glass fibre into that mould, and filling it with resin. It's also an option to do this casting with polyurethanes of a lower shore hardness than you can print, though that belt extruder looks kinda cool in this regard. You can scale up home casting a bit by making multi-part moulds, but it's not as effortless as 3D printing has become. Home CNC mills are the future.

In the future I'll be doing some TPU moulding, and for the really strength-demanding parts, I have the option of getting them milled out of metal by JLCPCB, or resin casting with carbon fibre. Carbon would look cooler for sure.
>>
>>2860185
Acetone influences PLA somewhat, maybe petrol or other organic solvents might do something too. Bleach, ferric chloride, persulfate, other oxidising agents might be worth a shot too.
Printing with carbon fibre PLA might make it easier to snap it without it just deforming, though the total strength might increase a tad.
>>
>>2860219
It doesnt necessarily have to be printed with PLA. I just have two a1 minis and only one enclosed bambu printer. If everything goes well im hoping to scale to maybe 3 a1 minis and the automatic build plate removers. The minis run PLA perfect. Also probably going to a .2mm nozzle. Could maybe do PETG but not too familiar with keeping the spools dry or how the product would behave in real world conditions.

If I cant get this PLA brittle in under a week of UVC light/ozone im probably going to be looking into different material options. Have all the equipment for production, and now just to see if it works.

>>2860218
I didn't injection mold. I 3d printed molds and poured platinum cure silicon into the molds and then coated in fibers. I get maybe an order every two weeks on that product which is like $4 profit. Dropped like $2500 for drying racks and other equipment. Good learning experience.
>>
Riddle me this /diy/.

Suppose I have a bedslinger in an enclosure and want to raise my extruder to the top and use my part fan to circulate the air to preheat it faster for ABS.

Is there a optimal spot for fan speed/amount of air being pushed around or do I just say fuck it and crank it up to 100% because more air == better.
>>
Wow, that's comprehensive.
>>
>>2860168
Cura's support blocker could turn the fancy hole into a cube.
>>
>>2860066
>>2860378
Do we have bots now? I swear to god the longer i look at this thread the less organic it seems.
>>2859825
Good to see you back. Hope you're feeling better.
>>
>>2860226
Just buy one of those little $20 desk heaters on amazon and throw it inside the enclosure
>>
I don't get why websites like Printables and Makerworld allow Al pictures to be used as the main picture for a file, it's either slop for Hueforge or straight up lies like the Deltaprints faggot who basically does 5 minutes of work in a cad program
>>
Just found this video by Teaching Tech:
https://youtu.be/PqcEz09jQ7c?si=fd47g8fJjk8Rg6S9
Where he talks about using g-code operations in the slicer to perform adaptive purge. But then a guy in the comments suggests using the same method for adaptive meshing. The only problem with that is it does the same number of points across the smaller area, wasting time. So I thought you could use division to set the desired number of points from a fixed value of desired point density.

Reading further, I found this:
https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/conditional-gcode
This page says it also can support operators from exprtk, which has division and rounding. Has anyone done this? Looks pretty easy. I'll be adding a level sensor to my printer soon.
>>
>>2859896
I have Amazon's cheapest, can confirm it will even dry Nylon.
>>2860004
>>2860018
Yeaaaa no dog I won't be touching resin printing, ever.
>>
>>2860577
PrusaSlicer was a 99% rewritten, anon. That old slic3r documentation doesn't mean shit to current PrusaSlicer and its derivatives.
>>
>>2860218
I'm not super experienced with injection molding, but from what I understand you need to keep a very consistent wall thickness, not to mention draft angles and such. It's very restrictive.
>>
I've never used any slicer but Cura. I thought I'd try Prusaslicer but there's no profile for my printer (Monoprice select mini v2 from 2017.) Should I bother with trying to find a pre-made profile? Should I be looking at other slicers?
Partly I'm curious as to what I'm missing if anything.
>>
>>2860632
I really like Orca
>>
>>2860647
I'm trying to run the appimage now but it's looking for libwebkit2gtk-4.0.so and my Ubuntu system has libwebkit2gtk-4.1.
Maybe they should use some system that packages the dependencies like libraries along with the binary, like Appimage, or something.
>>
>>2860649
I had some issues with fonts or something with orcaslicer, worked when i rolled back the dependency.
>>
>>2860403
We’ve always been here
>t.bot
>>
>>2860651
There's an existing ticket:
https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/issues/6800
Off to try the nightly / beta I guess.
>>
>>2860632
if you need anything for the MPSM look up malyan m200, or check out the wiki some guy made "mpselectmini dot com", i made great use of it when i was still fucking around with my frankenprice before i ended up swapping out so many parts that it ship of Theseus'd itself into a voron
>>
>>2860599
Damn. Looking closer, I found documentation not for Orca but for Prusa:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/macros_1775
It has a much more limited set of available instructions, but this includes division and conventional rounding. I'd rather use the ceiling instruction but I can always just add 0.5. I assume Orca is the same?
>>
Is there any reason to upload .STL's in currentyear, or do all the slicers support .3MF and .STEP?
>>
>>2859825
Please add cadquery to the paste for turbo austist's CAD options, it is vastly superior to openscad.
https://github.com/CadQuery
>>
>>2859854
This plus set your part cooling fan to about 10% of what you use for pla. The part is getting cooled too fast. Abs needs a long soak to help relieve stress between layers.
>>
>>2860795
STL are smaller filesize, and can easily load into free software like blender for modifications.
>>
>>2860798
> smaller filesize
You sure about that? And Google is saying Blender can do both .STEP and .STL.
>>
>>2860795
I always upload in .step so people can still modify parts and objects. Don't see a point in 3mf when most people will just overwrite with their own settings anyway.
>>
>>2860806
I haven't set any settings for the 3MFs I've uploaded, but they're smaller than STL files, and are the only one of the three that will show the model as a thumbnail in Windows.
>>
>>2860809
>3MF thumbnails in Windows
Didn't expect MS to actually give a fuck, but for steps and everything else try f3d. On Windows run the F3D NSIS installer and you're good to go. On Linux just use the package.
>>
>>2860795
Just use step
>>
3mf is stupid.
>Export file with helical feature
>3mf can't process it
>>
>>2860884
This isn't a 3mf problem, it's a problem with your shit-tier third-world CAD software.
>>
>>2860887
Solidworks?
>>
>>2860897
If it can't export 3MF files then yes, it's shit-tier third-world CAD software.
>>
>>2860887
>>2860903
Please enlighten us. Who pushed 3mf and why should the rest of us care?
>>
>>2859935
So how important is the dry box? I only have 1 reel of filament, obviously printing from one means it can't reasonably be pressure-tight. Trying to figure out what box I should buy to print from.
>>
>>2860934
Depends on where you life, how humid your close environment is. Anything at and after ABS should storaged dried.
Polymaker Polydryer is the fancy all in one.
Any sealing off the shelf storage box with a hole for the filament is the common cheapo option.
>>
>>2860940
I think it's just average. At worst like 60% humidity in my bedroom, but that's not where my printer is. I was quickly looking at local options and the cheaper Polydryer "box" was the cheapest option at the 3d print store which I guess is the Polydryer without the actual dryer part beneath. And a food dryer like suggested earlier in the thread.
Kinda don't want to have to figure out the correct size, drill a correct hole, balance the reel in there, etc.
>>
>>2860920
>Who pushed 3mf and why should the rest of us care?
Autodesk, EOS, nTopology, SLM, HP, Hexagon, PTC, Statsys, 3D Systems, Materialise, Siemens, Ultimaker, Dassault Systems, Microsoft, Altair, and Viaccess.Orca.
>>
>>2860660
>>2860651
Got it working on my old Thnikpad. thanks. Still no pre-built setup for my printer, but the Orca reddit had an explanation on how to set one up for any printer, so I'll try that.
>>2860671
Yah if it wasn't for that site i'd have stepped in front of a moving train long ago.
The printer's been fine for everything I've needed, but then I don't print big stuff. My son always wants someting larger than it can do, which keeps him off it, which is also nice.
>SoT
So far all I've done is make a new fan shroud for a bigger fan, trying to improve PLA bridging a bit.
The reason i'm trying a different slicer is that with PETG I'm getting some blobbing always at the exact same spots on prints. That is, I'll print something three times and get a blob in the same spot on all three. So I'm not sure it's a printer problem I don't want to dig into the G-code just yet, gonna see if a different slicer makes any difference first.
>>
>>2860903
I don't think it's SW's fault that 3mf couldn't handle a geometry that step handled fine.
But hey, maybe you make helical features projected onto conical surfaces all the time and it works, but it didn't for me.
>>
>>2859893
I recently bought some TPU that was also doing the poppin, did the ol' cheap dryer, poke 4-5 holes in the filament box, put roll of TPU on bed, set bed to 50c, cover roll with box, wait 8 hours. Prints close to perfect now.
>>
>>2860989
It's not a problem with the 3mf format, it's a problem with Solidworks failing to export the solid correctly.
>>
>>2860993
Ironic, isn't it?
>>
The UVC light and ozone caused the necessary embrittlement in PLA after 2 days. Did about 4, 3 hour ozone cycles and 48 hours of light exposure. Going to try doing just 3 days of light as I rather not do ozone treatments since they need to be done outside. Overall I would say the results have been pretty good. Now I need to do some final testing and hopefully make some sales.
>>
>>2860961
i had a similar issue with blobbing on my MPSM, ended up being a weird bend in my leadscrew, so that layer was 'shorter' on one side,
also, theres some fun bed extenders you can print for the MPSM, just add a glass bed on top of the factory heated bed and BAM, doubled bed length, and if you extend the gantry rods, and install a new belt, you can extend both your X and Y to around 240x240 before things get wobbly
then you just need to add a gantry stabilizer using either some long 6mm linear rods and a bearing, or if you're feeling fancy a second leadscrew.
then all you need to do is totally gut the machine, and install it on an aluminium extrusion frame using Voron switchwires printed parts for the motion system, then swap out the main board so you can run klipper, ditch the old motors in favour of something that can survive enclosure heats, realise you have most of the original MPSM parts sitting in a pile next to your working voron.
>>
is it too bad of an idea is it to use blender for a relatively big project? and if it is which cad is easiest to learn for someone who has only ever used blender?
>>
>>2861329
Solidworks and Fusion 360 will have the most documentation for a noob.
>>
>>2861329
What is the project?
Is it even something cad/parametric related?
For a fancy door handle might as well stick to blender.
>>
>>2861329
Onshape is a good free alternative, only issue being that your projects are technically public
>>
>>2861329
>>2861554
>only issue being that your projects are technically public
Sounds like PTC Creo is better in that regard?
>>
>>2861570
Or Solid Edgef if you absolutely want free without sailing.
>>
>>2860799
STL files encode geometry as triangles. They're efficient at hard angular geometry. STEP files use more elaborate encoding with more overhead, so they're larger than STL files if they're both encoding the same angular geometry. However, STEP files can encode curves as mathematical structures rather than a large number of triangles, which takes less data if you want high fidelity.
>>
>>2861142
How is that less work than scoring the parts with a knife?
>>
>>2861599
This is really important if you're doing your work properly and actually ADDING FILETS
>>
>>2861603
Who the fuck wants fillets? Layer lines menace and don't get me started on bringing your part even close to mill.
>>
>>2861604
Chamfers are cope unless you also fillet the edges of the chamfer.
>>
File: unknown-1.png.jpg (251 KB, 526x778)
251 KB
251 KB JPG
>>2859964
Fusion360 has a function for user defined variables. Create a variable, name it for example "TD". When sketching, and you place your circle used for the subtractive extrusion to create the hole for the tool, define the diameter as TD. The input box will also support math functions btw.. If you start a project like this, it might be a good idea to define variables for all router bits you intend to support from the start. Make use of the timeline to simply go back and change the diameter of the circle on the sketch and go forward again to the current step.. Your hole diameter should have changed. Im sure the >130 IQ CAD nerds have found ways to better automate parametric design. this is how I'd do it. Also why not make a stepped hole covering two to four sizes?
>>
File: Scrēēnshöt.jpg (38 KB, 660x228)
38 KB
38 KB JPG
I have decision paralysis and you assholes removed the recommended printers section, so now I need you guys help.
Many years ago I got myself an Ender 3 for 200€ at the time. I'm not sure which revision it was, but it probably was the second version ever or something like that. I used it for quite some time, and while it certainly wasn't very fancy, it got the job done.
I stopped using it as much eventually, and I remember a few years ago (this should have been a little before corona) that I tried to upgrade it with auto leveling, but ran into issues because the board didn't have enough space for marlin without heavy modifications. I got discouraged and since then the printer has been collecting dust.

Recently I wanted to get back into 3D printing and I figured that it was probably better to just get a new printer rather than paying almost as much to repair and upgrade my Ender 3 only to have it not print as well.
I don't necessarily want a hobby, I want my printer to work in the same way I want my soldering iron to work. I can fix stuff if I have to, but I'd prefer if I didn't need to do so all that often. Other than that: FDM, auto bed leveling is a must, preferably in the lower price brackets. Don't care about multi filament stuff.
I've looked at Elegoo, Creality and Bambu so far, picrel is a rough overview of the print sizes and prices. The ones marked in green are the ones that popped out to me in terms of value/being good options.
The Neptune 4 for being cheap as shit, the Ender 3 V3 SE for being the reasonable upgrade from what I am used to and the Bambu A1 mini for being the most "just werks" one.
I'm gravitating to the Bambu, linear rails are sexy and people are jerking it over the brand. The only downside I see is the print size, but in all the years of using my ender 3 the biggest thing I ever printed was 14 cm tall. I may want to print a halloween mask for next year, but I can just print in parts.

Am I missing some obvious alternative/option?
>>
whats the closest brand of filament i can get this kind of white? i know its all fictional from a game but i really like the aesthetic and want to do some functional prints in this style.
>>
>>2861623
Dude, you'll probably want to just paint the thing anyway.
>>
>>2861618
Fuck off.

>>2861623
Pearl white maybe. For tacticool cosplay look into anything CF. Else >>2861652
>>
>>2861618
A1 mini, I have a Neptune 4 plus because I wanted to print stuff like helmets in one piece and I have to run the autolevel and adjust the z offset every time I power it on, seems to be something fucky in the firmware and I can't be bothered to fuck with it since I print resin 90% of the time
>>
>>2861652
can i even achieve the milky translucent look with paint? not looking to print guns or anything just adapting the aesthetic to some household parts
>>2861655
thanks do you have any recommended brands from experience? i know getting the color close will involve a lot of trial and error so hoping some anons can nail it down to a smaller sample.
>>
can't go wrong with a1 mini anon it just werkz. i'm also curious to try resin myself; what would be the a1 mini for resin printers? plug and play, good value, small print footprint
>>
>>2861655
>Fuck off.
I won't and you can't make me.
>>2861657
Well that settles that, that's exactly the kind of shit I want to avoid, thanks anon. I fucking despised manual leveling my ender 3, I just want to print functional shit without having to spend my day doing maintenance.
>>2861623
Not the kind of stuff I print, but look for terms like "white silk" "pear white" etc. In German "Perlmutt" mit also bei worth a search, but the English term nacre doesn't seem to be used as a descriptor.
That being said none of those will have that slight translucency you seem to want.
>>2861660
Milky yes, translucent no. But I think white silk or pearl might look good for what you want.
>>2861662
Well I'm sold.
>>
>>2861662
Elegoo's fdm printers are shite but their resin printers are good aside from the Saturn 4, and the ultra models all have wifi so you can just pour resin in and send it. Ive heard a lot of good things about the gktwo printers but havent tried them since the mars4/saturn 3 ultras are so much cheaper
>>
>>2861666
thanks anon i'll check them out when black friday swings around.
>>
how much calibration fuckery is there with resin? looks like set and forget the grass is greener etc desu (apart from the chemical risks). do you guys have to worry about shit like resin compatability or any printer can print any resin?
>>
>>2861682
there's some shitty one that uses proprietary resin and has to be always-online that no one gives a fuck about but you can use whatever with basically any printer. You have to level the build plate once or twice a year at worst, occasionally swap out release film and for calibrating resin, you do need to tweak settings when you change resins or you have a dramatic temperature change in the printing environment but unless you buy single 1kg bottles and change resin type/brand each time it's a non-issue
>>
>>2861682
To note, there is resin compatibility to worry about, but mostly at the very high-end. Most consoomer MSLA resin printers are using 405nm UV light, and the vast majority of printing resin out there will work fine with that. However, there are some fancy laser SLA printers that produce 395nm, 385nm, I've even seen 365nm UV light sources. Some fancy (expensive) engineering resins are optimized for these printers, and may cure slowly or just fail to cure with a common MSLA printer using a 405nm light. This isn't something you have to worry about much, only if you nerd out and go looking for really fancy resin for a project.
>>
>>2861145
>weird bend in my leadscrew, so that layer was 'shorter' on one side
Interesting. This was the "Y" lead screw? I should try moving the model to the edge of the build plate and see if the blob changes.
>Wheeeee new printer
I do intend to build one from scratch, when I get the time. I want a delta, but one stiff enough to hold tools besides a print head. Specifically a rotary tool so it can cut gaskets,
>>
Anyone here using Fusion360 on Linux? What's your poison of choice? VM? Bottle? snap? Flatpak? Wine?
>>
Pp>>2859825
I'm a software dev on fusion, ask me anything
>>
>>2861801
can you leak the entire source code please
>>
>>2861801
Clawing back free features is shitty and you should feel bad doing that.
>>
>>2861815
lmao at thinking the devs make those decisions
>>
>>2861835
I've had legit shouting matches with my bosses before. I've told-off the owner of the company for doing shit wrong.
If it's something that would bother you, it would probably bother the clients. I refuse to use F360 for my work because of your shitty practices and I specifically direct people to other applications because I only see things getting worse and worse as your "fiduciary duty" to be terrible human beings continues to push you to squeeze more and more blood from the stone.
>>
>>2861839
cool story
>>
>>2861856
Feel free to forward my review to your boss.
>>
>>2861801
Is FreeCAD or Ondsel seen as an actual competitor? Are any changes coming as a result of OnShape getting popular?
>>
>>2859825
how to print a semi-circular crown? should I print it flat or directly to it's final shape? the original crown is made from flexible brass + gold plated. picrel and video related.
https://youtu.be/UFWf7OXvIKw
>>
>>2861618
check qidi q1 pro, 380 usd, enclosure, ok print space, fast, after 2 weeks of use it ez for me, everything happen automatically, you just have to upload gcode and press print. Also can print more exotic plastics. As a ender 3 v2 user im really happy with change, no more bed leveling bullshit, sd card. Bonus points for their slicer with looks like prusa's one but with built in LAN conection with printer.
>>
>>2861964
Will have a look, sadly it's more like 450€ in the EU it seems.
>>
>>2861969
INNOVATE15-CART use this coupon on their eu store, it will be something like 380 eur, i bought it for that price. If you need capability qidi is hard to beat for its price. I dont use it that much but after something like 12h of printing time i didnt have any issues. Every print goes like that: model is sliced in qidi slicer, i can press button send to printer with is on the same lan network and in printer remote control tab i press print and thats it, (if its pla and tpu top cover and front doors needs to be open), for now perfect first layers, fast printing (probably not bambu lab level fast), in my case i compared with ender 3v2 and printing time on same model was 4times slower on ender, and you need to level bed, wipe nozzel, clean glass because of dust and wait next to printer for few minuts to look if first layer is sticking correctly
>>
>>2861978
Sounds nice, thanks for the coupon. I get that speed is nice, but as a stock ender 3 user I am used to pressing print, observing the first layer and then going to bed and checking the print in the morning, so that's not that important of a factor to me.
Thanks again anon.
>>
>>2861985
print speed was not an issue for me but cant deny corexy speed advantage. It was more with all this bed leveling bullshit, i had to buy stiffer springs from aliexpress, then change z axis stop switch to be 2mm higher, and all of this fixed it but not 100%. before every print i had to heat up hotend and bed, check levels with paper page, adjust it litle bit because its never perfect and only then print. Also there was something off with my bed, after every print it had to be washed with warm water, soap and dryied with towel, otherwise next print had no chance to stick. Also im ocasional printer and enclousure prevent dust buildup on printer insides. Ender was good printer to start with, to learn how to troubleshoot this things but as a printer itself it was far from perfect.
>>
>>2861985
>>2861987
Going from an ender 3 pro to a p1s, been just over 2 weeks now iirc, God, it's so nice, even just blown away by standard 0 print quality at those speeds without having to fuck around, even at 0.12mm it gets so damn fine the finishing and painting so much easier
>>
>>2861666

There are better budget printers, but Neptune 4s were pretty great at the time for the $200 you pay for them, especially compared to an Ender.

Sure the A1 is better now, but it's also like twice the price which everyone conveniently forgets.
>>
File: end stop.png (158 KB, 1076x1026)
158 KB
158 KB PNG
Adjustable X end-stop for the ender to get more out of my bed
>>
>>2861881
No.
Maybe one day it'll be usable, but not yet.
>>
>>2862002
>p1s
Are you printing terrain with it? Or why did you choose a fdm printer if you (presumably) want to print minis?
>>
>>2861978
>after something like 12h of printing time
The absolute state of 3dpg.
>>
>>2862017
Not minis, more like 1:1 scale, printing props. If minis were my main thing I'd probably want resin, though fdm might be an alternative to avoid dealing with resin.
>>
>>2861942
Depends a bit on how your printer is fine tuned and if you wanna do the band all in one or separate, but on FDM i'd pre print whole thing vertical. With SLA, crown 45degree backwards.
>>
>>2862022
Ah props makes more sense.
I would even understand the desire to use fdm for minis because resin sucks ass to handle, but it's performance is unmatched.
>>
>>2861942
>how to print a semi-circular crown?
This is a tiara. A tiara that completes the circle is a coronet. A coronet with arches is a crown.
>>
>>2862033
it's a crown. you just couldn't see the headband. I have the original one.
>>
>>2861942
for *this* crown I see no benefit to printing it vertically as it sits in the picture. instead it is piecemeal, even if the main seems like one piece it's really a band and 3 shield pieces similar to the side pieces and comb. ergo I would print the band vertically in a circle for strength and have the 3 main pieces attach to it, allowing them to be printed in the best orientation for each, likely face up. it's possible I'd print the band to face attachment separately for strength, but that's an engineering problem I'm not going to spend energy on for a hurr durr how do 3d print.
>>
>>2861812
No I would be shot
>>2861815
>>2861839
Lol there are like 4 layers between me and anyone making those decisions
At least in the manufacturing org, AFAIK it's more affordable than ever with a recent reorganisation of extension features
>>2861881
I work more in CAM so could not say
>>
File: file.png (103 KB, 1062x739)
103 KB
103 KB PNG
>>2862177
>I work more in CAM
So are you responsible for Fusion not being able to use v-bits? Like, it supports them, you add them, but you can't actually do any operations with them, it just throws errors and fails. So for all my V-bits I have to set them up as tapered mills with 0.01mm diameter and 0.01mm corner radius. I'm going to choose to blame you for this you fucking retarded piece of shit, fuck you, get cancer.
>>
>>2862177
>Lol there are like 4 layers between me and anyone making those decisions
Okay, well when you meet the person responsible at the Christmas party or whatever, punch them in the dick for me and everyone else who wants to see your company not suck.
>>
>>2862199
>>2862177
imagine the freetards so angry they aren't getting everything. If they ever shut off the free I'm turbofucked as there are several hundred designs I'd lose.

also imagine thinking the decision chain goes UP in a corporation, god damn. there are probably multiple people in both marketing and sales making those decisions and people who have absolutely zipperfuck to do with the actual program. god damn people are fucking stupid cunts.

>>2861801
is it possible to actually export *.cad? could you see my dragon dildo files if you had my email?
>>
File: odh6je10htty.jpg (810 KB, 3072x4608)
810 KB
810 KB JPG
>>2861623
Looks like natural transparent PETG. It gets more milky when printed at high speeds.
(photo from le reddit)
>>
>>2862220
>that burn booger at F4
god that's depressing af
>>
>>2861623
I've had white that is white and white that is that translucent shit, both just labeled as white PLA.
>>
>>2861760
Not using Fusion360, but SolidWorks and others. I run it in a VM (libvirt/virt-manager), because Wine doesn't work with apps that complex. They use too much of Windows-specific APIs to work correctly.
>>
>>2860796
Nice, bookmarked. Can it also use manifold engine for fast renders? If not, are the renders fast enough?
>>
File: 1714959686027900.jpg (656 KB, 1600x1200)
656 KB
656 KB JPG
Friend of mine is assembling his first Prusa MK4s
>Yes, i know i know
But got me at this part
>Why aren't there any washers?
Told him it doesn't make a difference, but yet here i am still thinking why not. It certainly help with rednecks overtightening every screw in sight.
>>
>>2862230
You’re screwing past a steel plate into intermittent threads cut directly into aluminium. By the time a washer prevents you from denting the steel plate, you’ve already stripped the threads out of the extrusion.
>>
File: MCC-92147A031-00.png (5 KB, 300x300)
5 KB
5 KB PNG
>>2862230
>It certainly help with rednecks overtightening every screw in sight.
Unless you're talking about compressible washer, how would a flat washer prevent overtightening?
>>
File: 1710484367069425.jpg (26 KB, 500x344)
26 KB
26 KB JPG
>>2862237
I thought of nylon washers. Metal would do more harm than anything.

>>2862233
More like pic rel. I see it often from farmers with some
>gotta withstand the next storm ay
attitude in my area.
>>
>>2862242
Oh, ok. Nylon would do that. But wouldn't nylon compress with time (like PLA sags when pressure is applied) ?
>>
>>2862230
washers extend the surface are of the head against a soft surface. in this application they'd just be another variable in heating and cooling to cause loosening.

a lock washer is just one form of mitigation, proper torque and occasional checks should be sufficient but if you're going to add a mechanical washer use a toothlock so the pressure is even.

small thread loctite might be an option but it's susceptible to heat. a dab of silicone gasket material is generally good to keep screws backing out in applications with a lot of vibration.

still ultimately, there really isn't any need and unless the application is repeatedly loosening I wouldn't worry about it past the initial torque and one re-torquing after some hours of use.
>>
>>2862249
>But wouldn't nylon compress with time
nylon is forever. what happens is ni- jokers reuse nylon lock nuts thinking they are fine and they are but only most of the time.
>>
>>2862219
>angry they aren't getting everything
No, I'm angry they claw back free features. If you make a free feature and then retract it, that makes you a dick.
>>
what type of plastic that are food safe grade or is it a post-printing process?
>>
>>2862311
Most printed plastics are food-grade or food-safe, few try to advertise that fact but some do. If you're FDM printing, you need post-processing for actual food safety. The problem is that the printing process makes lots of tiny pores and crevices that hold on to food and bacteria. Dishwashers and normal handwashing can't clean out the teeny tiny pores and crevices. The easiest options are filaments that can be thoroughly vapor-smoothed, this eliminates the "teeny tiny pores and crevices" problem entirely. ABS and ASA are great for this, you can smooth them with acetone, they're dishwasher safe, easy as fuck to print on an enclosed printer, and you can even find it from brands that have it certified as food-safe in their respective countries. You can find "certified" food-grade or food-safe PETG and PLA quite readily as well, but they can't be easily smoothed. Instead you'll be sanding them before coating in a food-safe epoxy or similar, too much work in my opinion. For one-time-use stuff I wouldn't even bother with any of that. Use 7 cents worth of whatever plastic you've got loaded up to print a cookie-cutter, throw it out when you're done with it.
>>
>>2862313
Wrong. Dyes are often not food safe unless theyre labelled as such. Many additives like plasticizers, anti-microbial additives are not food safe, luvricants and stabilizers also not food safe. Brass nozzles are not food safe, you need stainless steel - best if its designated a food safe nozzle. You need filaments that specifically state theyre food safe. The base plastic being food safe doesnt mean shit.
>>
older image of my printer but should i even bother putting the 3rd stack lack on top if I dont ever plan to make a heat enclosure? ive had it off for like 2 years and am clearing space in my basement and not sure to throw it out or not
>>
File: IMG_2356.jpg (86 KB, 695x927)
86 KB
86 KB JPG
>>2862333
id have to modify it again to accommodate the cement tile and i plan to do the belted z which would further increase its height
>>
Just set off my first print with a textured PEI bed, it's some upgrade parts made of translucent yellow PETG. It sounds kinda wet, and it's stringing a bit, but it's in my heated box at 58°C so I think it will be fine. Though the desiccant in there has turned green.

I should get on printing a few tulle desiccant cages, but I want to make one with a white rectenna LED in the back. That way I can see what colour the desiccant is through the fabric, just by holding an AC coil nearby.
>>
Is there any sort of mod I can buy for an Ender 3 that would detect when the extruder turns but the filament doesn't move, or when the filament runs out, and pause the print?
It's annoying that it will just continue printing layers of nothing all the way up to the end of the print, botching the entire thing, when a detector would be so simple mechanically.
>>
>>2862347
Filament runout is an off-the-shelf sensor. I don't think the other option quite exists. It might be subsumed by checking hot end heat input or nozzle force.
>>
>>2862223
Yeah that's the conclusion I've come to, too. I suppose I will give freecad a try for a week or so to see if I will "get it" and like it as much as I do fusion and if not I'll have to just use fusion in a vm
>>
>>2862311
In all honesty, most of what we consider "food safe" won't be in 30 years.
We should be using glass, iron/steel and certain ceramics.
>>
>>2862320
>Brass nozzles are not food safe
What would the nozzle have to do with it? Brass particles getting onto the extruded plastic and then getting into the food?
>>
>>2862356
When are we getting consumer 3D printers that extrude molten glass?
>>
>>2862369
There's already a guy who made a powder bed printer that uses normal desert glass and THE FUCKING SUN concentrated with a lens to melt it.
>>
>>2862219
I could not.
>>
>>2862368
Brass nozzles often contain lead
>>
>>2861801
Please good sir, I beg for a crumb of Linux compatibility, I'll sugg yo pp if need be, just please give us a Linux version that doesn't require 80 workarounds and then still is buggy as fuck.
I'm using fucking SCAD at this point, that's how bad things are.
>>
File: IMG_20241017_221834.jpg (1.73 MB, 3072x4080)
1.73 MB
1.73 MB JPG
i just printed sone abs. its supposed to be like legos but it doesnt look like legos at all. legos are shiny and feel different.
>>
>>2862403
That's because LEGO's are injection molded into shiny molds that are probably made with plunge EDM.
>>
File: xe7j0nmpjmba1.jpg (344 KB, 1200x900)
344 KB
344 KB JPG
>>2862415
Joken er, at folk tror, at dette betyder, at Lego trækker deres forme tilbage med dette interval. I stedet erstatter de blot stålindsatserne, som kun var forbeholdt denne lille udstilling. De primære kroppe skider milliarder af mursten før udskiftning.
>>
>>2862387
Don't buy chink nozzles. That problem has been solved over a decade ago already.

>>2862393
Nothing wrong with OpenScad.
>>
>>2862426
I'm sorry, I don't speak surstromming.
>>
>>2862426
terrible mold design

t. mold expert
>>
>>2860577
https://github.com/kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging for adaptive meshing and adaptive purging
or
https://www.klipper3d.org/Bed_Mesh.html#adaptive-meshes just for adaptive meshing
You can combine the 2 and use adaptive purge/park from KAMP and meshing straight from klipper.
>>
So turns out that potentially a lot of people that had weird problems with leveling their chinkshit printers were just unlucky. Looks like there is a pretty fundamental bug in klipper that adds drift while probing that's significant enough to throw off the measurements by 0.2mm or even more. The main maintainers have sticks up their asses and there is no way of knowing when/if the fix will be merged into master branch.
https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/issues/6711
https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/pull/6712
>>
File: pain.jpg (2.47 MB, 3609x2917)
2.47 MB
2.47 MB JPG
>>2862336
Looks like I'm overdue for a bowden tube replacement.
https://youtu.be/_htnaGN8eOs?si=FdhW11KNIniKplXB
>>
>>2862427
>Nothing wrong with OpenScad.
Didn't try to imply that. It's very fun to use, but for anything that's complex I either am too inexperienced, too stupid or too slow. If the part are geometric shapes and boolean operations, fair enough, it's perfect for that. Once I want something more organic or with Bezier curves I get filtered.
I'm testing out freecad for now, but I have found solvespace to be surprisingly intuitive for the brainlets like me that prefer a GUI and sketches once it gets complicated.
>>
>>2862491
onShape is browser based and might be more of what you're looking for, however I'm a f360 fan and do everything technical with it.
>>
>>2862393
Way above my pay grade, but I don't see a desktop Linux fusion coming any time soon - lots of testing needed for really not much return
>>
Can I run Bambu Labs side by side with Orca without doing anything fancy?
>>
>>2862393
>>2862536
never in a million years. real software companies don't give a flying fuck about linux, see: Adobe. you'll never have photoshop it's why they call it's retarded half-brother GIMP.
>>
>>2862535
If I go browser based I might as well use the fusion browser version. I keep hearing about on shape that it's for "people who don't like parametric modeling" is that true? Because I love parametric modeling. The big thing I love about fusion compared to the competition is the inferred constraints, it's really good at guessing what I want to constrain where and saves me time that way.
>>2862536
That's part of why I'm suffering, I know it makes no financial sense and thus it won't happen, but I hate that that's the case.
>>2862539
I don't miss any adobe software except maybe InDesign because it has no Linux native real alternative (scribe does not count). Everything else is easy to replace, some better some worse.
>>
>>2862490
Shit I broke the heat-brake when trying to unclog the nozzle
>>
File: simplesketch.jpg (84 KB, 1280x1301)
84 KB
84 KB JPG
So since I switched to 100% Linux and thus have to use fusion in a VM I decided to have a look at freecad and solvespace today. I figured a simple modelling task like a Ikea skadis hook would be a good point of comparison:
>Solvespace
I don't really hear about this software and I'm a bit confused why, it's really quite nice. It's simple, intuitive and has sane key binds. You do run into limitations for more complex shapes, but if your project doesn't need those features it's great.
The upper pic is the hook solvespace, it was so intuitive to work with I didn't even need to consult documentation or a tutorial.
That being said, there's no fillet function, instead you're supposed to do a boolean difference with another sketch. Great for a simple cube or workpiece, not an easy option for my hook. Figuring out how to do a sketch, extruding it around the semicircle and then taking the Boolean difference took too long so I just didn't add the fillets. Pretty sure it can be done, but it's very unintuitive and complex compared to other software. On the upside, this model was fast. I took a third the time it took me to model the freecad one, though I'm willing to bet it'd be only half if I knew the freecad keybinds better.
>Freecad
Where solvespace shines with intuitive workflows, freecad is the opposite. Just starting a sketch took me a few minutes to figure out. In general all the constraints are much slower to enter, but I suppose that difference shrinks once you know the keybinds. The buttons certainly aren't very intuitive.
A lot of time was also lost due to how freecad handles dof/constraint conflicts. In solvespace finding the actual issues is much faster.
Once you finished your sketch though, it's much more powerful. Fillets are a simple operation that immediately worked, and the final part is better for it.

My takeaway: Clunky and unintuitive as freecad is, it's the better choice for anything more complex. For a quick model, I might use solvespace for the speed.
>>
File: slicey dicey.jpg (637 KB, 2184x1519)
637 KB
637 KB JPG
>>2862545
cutoff wheel comes to the rescue
>>
>>2862558
F
>>
>>2862542
Onshape is made by former SW people and so it functions very similarly. I helped a friend with an onshape model but it has the exact same problems as f360 with the free version being much better when it launched and they gradually removed shit.
>>
>>2862561
At least I had the heat-break that came with the V6 setup, which I'm printing with now, but it isn't bimetallic. Maybe I should have done a fresh PID tune...
>>
>>2862461
I know it can be done in Klipper, but I'm looking into doing it via Marlin.
>>
>>2862491
Sounds like you're doing the same ride as i did, before going back to Freecad. For future reference, think of Freecad's parts like Openscad groups. It helps a lot getting around FS's flow of boolean operations.

>>2862542
Scribus? I mean it's capable but mostly a victim of it's own target group, cause why bother when you might as well do a proper TeX document with your preferred layout?

>>2862539
>real
Read end user. With service software it's the complete opposite since WS2019. Which are becoming obsolete by Azure as well.

>>2862555
Newbs' curse. Icons become a lot more clear once you understand what Freecad is capable of/presume function. That said, don't leave part design till you do understand better. For your example look into additive pipes.
>>
Why the fuck do other people's projects even tuned for my printer never fucking work? I can design ams print all day just fine but try to do one fucking thing from makers world and I can't even get these calibration print to stick to the bed. What the fuck am I supposed to do?
>>
>>2862566
As long as f360 has a working timeline I won't use anything else.
>>
>>2862631
>>
>>2862566
I'll have to give it a try then, not like I have much to lose.
>>2862603
Freecad reminds me of when I learned blender, Bach in 2.5 (fucking 13 years ago, dear God). Back then it was borderline unusable for newcomers but once you understood the workflow and memorized the keybinds it was very powerful. Putting in the effort for freecad seems worth it though, because as I mentioned solvespace or scad are much better for simple parts, but once you want to change something more freecad is just more powerful.
>>
>>2862656
I'm a foy no doy no moy
>>
>>2862566
>>2862656
Consider PTC Creo instead of Onshape.
>>
>>2862656
freecad 1.0 is much more user freindly from noob perspective. But still its buggy or i dont know really how to use it. I had situation where i went back to previous scetch and added 3 new lines, deleted 1, and pad operation went ok but next scetch threw error because numbers on faces changed but scetch was still on old face that still existed but had new number. Should update automatically or am i done something wrong?
>>
File: IMG_20241018_152905.jpg (2.95 MB, 3072x4080)
2.95 MB
2.95 MB JPG
i told a guy id model and 3d print this. i am not sure if i bit more than i could chew desu.
i think he was quiet specific about the frog skin on one of the katana holders. i think i can pull the shape off but the texture im not so sure.
>>
>>2862663
Use blender, there's a few ways to do it in there. Model the handle without frog skin, then go into the sculpt mode and choose an appropriate texture. If that looks great, you're done, ezpz.
If not you have to do some node fuckery, should still be pretty easy though.
>>
>>2862664
yeah that what i was thinking. thank you.
>>
>>2862660
>PTC Creo
Clicking on "buy" opens a contact form for a representative. That's never a good sign. "If you have to ask how much it costs you can't afford it" type of thing kek.
>>2862661
Are those two different posts in one or are you asking someone who said he tried the software for the first time yesterday for advice? I have no fucking Idea why that is anon kek.
I'm not sure if it's easier for a noob. Scad clearly is for someone with software dev background, so fair enough there, but solvespace is explained in 5 minutes. The lack of features means finding the relevant button is much easier. Still, freecad is probably better to learn, because once you are familiar with he software solvespace will hold you back, while freecad won't (or at least less).
>>2862665
Before wasting your time with the modelling, consider doing a quick test if the texturing on a cube or ape. Might save you a lot of time to validate first. If that doesn't work, surely ZBrush should work. Not sure about substance painter, since I think that's more for games and doesn't actually affect the mesh.
>>
>>2862666
>Clicking on "buy" opens a contact form for a representative
Apparently there's a free version: >>2860087
>>
>>2862666
so he said a katana holder and i was like okay but then he showed me that and it wasnt until i got home that i realized that oh man this is might be a little tedious.
>>
>>2862671
Work smart not hard, it has nothing to do with your project, but check out Ian Hubert's lazy tutorials on blender, it's almost exclusively for visual stuff (movies and pictures), so limited relevance for modelling, but it can give you a good feel for how fucking powerful blender is if you know what to do. You could spend hours making the skin texture in the modelling window... Or you could use the sculpting mode.
>>2862667
Now that's pretty based, will check it out.
>>
>>2862663
In SW, you can apply texture maps to surfaces (including the surfaces of solids) to get any arbitrary surface texture. It basically makes fuzzy skin obsolete since you can bake it into the STEP file.
>>
File: donut.jpg (244 KB, 935x961)
244 KB
244 KB JPG
>>2862678
donut guy tutorials, you can stop before the lighting but the sprinkles are exactly what frog skin guy needs >>2862671
>>
File: bumptest.jpg (1 MB, 1924x2298)
1 MB
1 MB JPG
>>2862711
>>2862671
let me know if you want the file
>>
File: 3dhojor1.png (955 KB, 739x646)
955 KB
955 KB PNG
I think some filament from 3dhojor is sourced from eSun. Esun mint green, matte pla, and on the bottom is 3dhojor matte green, matte pla.
>>
>>2862850
Another one, eSun light blue, matte pla, and sealed one is 3dhojor light blue, matte pla.

3dhojor had other matte colors that seem to also be identical to eSun matte pla. Anyone know if 3dhojor sources from eSun?
>>
File: 3dhojor2.png (1.09 MB, 657x696)
1.09 MB
1.09 MB PNG
>>2862851
oh for fuck sakes I forgot the pic because I clicked on post and quickly aborted added the pic but still sent without pic.
>>
>>2862852
If you tried to post it with the image attached, it would take longer to post, and so you’d have been able to abort it in time.
>>
>>2862661
In general don't put sketches on faces, but separate datum planes your orientate to your base. There are some exceptions to the rule, but if you have to ask..
>>
>>2862901
>don't put sketches on faces
you can't just reassign the sketch plane to another face or plane? damn, sounds like caveman stuff.
>>
Pretty decent Bambu sale in 3 days, might pick up an AMS lite, just worried the novelty of multi-color prints is gonna wear off in a week or so.
>>
>>2862908
You can, but then you have to do that. With a datum it's much more protected against your own shenanigans.
>>
>>2862942
Likely, but it's true strength is having your three favourite filaments always ready without manual input anyway. Just way harder to sell than Pikachus.
>>
File: bowserpog.png (73 KB, 148x347)
73 KB
73 KB PNG
>buy new mat for printer
>manage to slice directly into it with the spatula less than 1 day into having it
>>
>>2862964
I wonder if it would be possible to put it into a big plastic container with a modified lid and use that as a dryer/drykeeper
>>
File: Screenshot 2024-10-19.png (118 KB, 1084x648)
118 KB
118 KB PNG
>>2862678
oh dear
>>
>>2862942
I was thinking the same but EU prices are different, we go from 270€ ($290) to 220€ ($240)
Still the same discount but worse price, I love EU taxes
>>
>>2862979
This going back and forth between freecad and blender is the workflow that works for me but its a shitty workflow... Lesson learned i should looked into fusion 360 when i said i would...
I don't think the measurements on blender are right
>>
>>2862740
yes please I should have started with that one instead of the brass one since that one is more doable...
>>
File: 2 wire lmao.jpg (798 KB, 2365x1673)
798 KB
798 KB JPG
Inductive probe holder. Yeah maybe I'm retarded for not going for a magnetically docked physical switch, but this was pretty cheap so we'll see how it goes.
>>
File: PXL_20241019_085030619.jpg (2.15 MB, 4032x3024)
2.15 MB
2.15 MB JPG
Why does my print do this, the layer height looks good and it sticks to the bed everywhere else.

>Prusa mk3s+
>Prusa petg
>Prusa slicer/ 0.15 preset
>>
>>2862994
I'm just shooting in the dark, but I'd guess those are artefacts of resonances in the X and Y kinematics, that or some other issue with the kinematics.. I'd start off ensuring the belts are properly tightened, before checking that the linear bearings are sufficiently lubed and aren't crunchy. Then I'd do a few first layer tests at significantly different print speeds to see if there are certain speeds that it's bad at. If you have mesh levelling, then it could arguably also be an issue with the Z axis, but I doubt it.

If none of that shines light on the problem, look into input shaping.
>>
I've had several failed prints on my P1s because the surface area touching the build plate is like 3.4mm x 200mm and narrow and tall.. detached from the build plate. I'm not sure why yet just since a mirrored copy of this worked last week and I've at least 20 prints as bad or worse for adhesion print perfectly.

I'm thinking it might be the new firmware is just ever so slightly less close to the build plate so that prints release better (this doesn't affect any non schizo prints) because I used the unused side of the build plate.. same issue.. recalibrate and washed build plate in warm soapy water.. same issue.. washed again and used a new roll of filament, up the build plate temp from stock of 55 to 59 and nozzle from 220 to 223.. failed at 65% instead of 45%.

Can only think the last variable was the firmware update or the build plate is now only 95% as good as new and that's enough to let go on this extremely low surface area.

Have given up and printing the remaining bit from when it failed as its a collection of a larger set of armor as I just wanna get it out instead of rolling back FW and wasting another 2 hours to see if it'll fail or not.

Anything with more surface area touching the build plate is fine.

I feel like they've tuned the z offset for the textured in the new firmware and just slightly changed it, previously some prints adhered extremely strongly to the plate and not all of them automatically popped off when cold.. so I think they may have dialed it back slightly

No time to investigate tho
>>
>>2862996
This is the surface area that adheres to the build plate.. which is basically nothing.. you're not 'supposed' to print like this but it's worked for me right up until this point.. when my printer is finally free (lol) I'll roll back the firmware and try the same piece and see if it still fails or not at this point it's got to be the fw, the plate isn't as new, or the nozzle needs cleaning (didn't see anything on it desu)
>>
File: PXL_20241018_182200311.jpg (2.07 MB, 4032x3024)
2.07 MB
2.07 MB JPG
>>2862995
I just changed and lubed all the bearings, 2 rods that had damage, charged the belts and Y stepper, and the Z screw nuts. Have done the xyz calibration. The belt tention is within the recommended value 275+-15 pic related. I guess i have to try different speeds and then look into input shaping.
>>
>>2862994
Look at your rims, offset too low or a bit of under extrusion.
>>
>>2862984
omg why did i agree to this. Please post file ;_;
>>
File: OIP (1).jpg (16 KB, 474x344)
16 KB
16 KB JPG
>>2863010
omg I'm fucking up. I sent an stl with the wrong dimensions, then I sent the correct dimensions but I think it might be off by a few mm. Should I cancel it? He gave me a bad review on google business. I didn't advertise custom cad I just advertised 3d printing.
>>
>>2863023
my family is telling me to cancel it because he gave me a bad review maybe he's screwing with me.
>>
>>2862942
it never gets old but what will really get you is when you mix PLA and PETG and the supports peel away like you're cracking an oreo cookie of plastic.
>>
>>2863023
>>2863033
you should have said no in the first place. here hope this helps.

https://file.io/33wWdgjuvZpn
>>
>>2863077
one thing im jaelous as qidi user is ams unit
>>
>>2863078
thank you but it didn't work. I'm going to try zbrush and if that doesn't work I'm just going tell the guy i can't. I think zbrush has perlin noise.
>>
>>2863096
how much is this gig paying?
>>
>>2863103
not enough desu i give up
zbrush is so weird
>>
>>2863023
>>2863010
>>2862984
Honestly, i still don't get what you're trying to achieve. A katana handle, a blade, the whole sword. What specific part are you struggling with?
>>
>>2863077
How much does that add to print times though? Like if I'm running PLA @ ~210c and PETG @ ~250c, won't it spend a lot of time waiting for the nozzle to cool down every interface layer?
I suppose I'm thinking more of curved surfaces, for flat ones it'd only be a single layer.
>>
How come no slicer has an "Automatically orient this print in the best orientation for optimal visual quality on a chose face" feature yet?
>>
>>2863168
They do, it's called resin printing.
>>
File: 20241019_140952.jpg (1.72 MB, 4032x1960)
1.72 MB
1.72 MB JPG
>>2863167
>waiting for the nozzle to cool down
that's seconds if anything, and why you match filaments - PETG and PLA or ASA and ABS (iirc), because the temps are similar.

no the time comes in switching filaments which for a 15 min print easily becomes over an hour. no difference if it's filament type or color, every color change adds FUCKING FOREVER. plus you can get bleed if you set up the purge wrong with a darker support, pic related an early upscale of a test piece with green petg. still, all worth it for those smooth undersides.
>>
>>2863168
because that's up and it's subjective depending on what you want.
>>
>>2863174
I see, perhaps it'll be a nice quality-of-life thing to have, plus I'll have an excuse to actually use Hueforge
>>
>>2863139
the handle. I can't concentrate. I'm going to show the guy pic related. I might space a little a little closer or something. If he doesn't like the idea then I'll tell him that's all I can do. I kind of want to get rid of that bad review. I used the array modifier but still. I can't pick up this stuff each program is a sea of tutorials.
>>
>>2863196
Listen anon you're way over your head. Each of the programs you tried could do this, but you are panicking and jumping from one to the other so much you're not learning anything. If you are expecting there to be a magic button that does the work for you, no program has it.
For the future, be more specific with what services you offer and don't offer services you can't provide. A bad review is just a bad review (and if we are honest you do somewhat deserve it for claiming to be able to do something you can't). Just get back to work, get better at what you offer and you'll slowly start diluting the bad review with more positive ones.
>>
File: why is this a problem.png (23 KB, 1512x642)
23 KB
23 KB PNG
Was constraining a sketch in inventor and it gave me this? the point I'm trying to constrain to is the origin, but apparently it doesn't like the idea of using a coincident constraint between that and another point that is constrained to the midpoint of another line for some reason.

Purely out of curiosity, why?
>>
>>2863196
Honestly, write down what the fucj he actually wants from you, including "basic" sizes like blpqde diameter. I might not be able to help to help, but i'm going through the phase of more motivation than projects, so might test your luck.
>>
>>2863294
>write down what the fucj he actually wants
yeah I want to make it now.
>>
>>2863168
Cura has a "select face to align to build plate button".
>>
>>2863168
Bambu and orca iirc have auto align and also align to face, best visual quality I'd typically standing up where the most viewed/important part is on the side walls and not a top surface
>>
>printables has a halloween contest that ends a week after halloween
They do this with every seasonal thing, are they genuinely retarded?
>>
>>2863403
People are really bad at time management, and plenty will finish their Halloween projects after Halloween and then just use it next year. This ensures those goobers can enter. Makes sense desu.
>>
>>2863294
Damn, thank god i was only a little drunk when writing this.

But yeah, my offer still stands. If someone has some projects i could use to get better at Freecad, I'd be happey to take a look.
>>
File: iamseething.jpg (157 KB, 1280x961)
157 KB
157 KB JPG
>>2863196
Anon please I beg you, the very first advice you got in >>2862664 explained how to do it, what the fuck are you doing with array modifiers and spheres ffs. You're making me seethe.
- model part with CAD software for the functional parts. Export to Blender.
- Add appropriate levels of subdivision to the faces so you have some resolution to work with. Make sure you apply the modifier or the sculpting won't work.
- Download "lizard texture.png"
- Make it black and white in gimp (see top left)
- switch to sculpting mode
- load that texture into the brush, play around with the brush strength, normal radius and more importantly the cropping settings in the texture panel
- click on the part to apply brushstroke
- voila here's your part with lizard texture, see bottom left of pic.
- bottom right is just to show that it's changing the geometry, not just appearance
There you have a lizardskin on your part with minimal effort and no understanding of nodes required.
It's not elegant, it doesn't tile well, it can't be edited easily, but you can do it in 5 minutes with a roomtemp IQ.
>>
Just figured I'd ask before wasting time and filament prototyping, anyone got some good resources on 3d printing springs? I'm particularly thinking about constant force torsion springs, but an extension spring would also work since it's trivial to convert to rotational force.
>>
>>2863421
Tl;dr. I'm adding more arrays
>>
>>2863423
>3d printing springs
Don't. Just buy piano wire and print a wire bending jig.
>>
>>2863426
Piano wire would work for an extension spring, but not for a torsion spring. I could still buy some metal strips and bend them, but I'd kinda like the idea of printing the entire thing for easier sharing. Well, I'll probably print a quick prototype and see if it's enough and get some proper hardware if it isn't.
>>
>>2862225
It uses OCCT instead of CGAL so it is already much faster. I don't know how it stacks up against Manifold.
>>
>>2862225
>>2863455
Here's a bunch of resources. https://github.com/CadQuery/awesome-cadquery?tab=readme-ov-file
>>
>>2863449
Piano wire is exactly what they use in commercially made springs. It's also sold as "music wire".
>>
>>2863196
Who would win in a fight a CAD poser or one bumpy boy?
>>
>>2863423
>>2863449
I'm assuming you already did google and came up empty. Look for "wind up" models for ideas.

You're going to want to print the spiral flat obviously, I would start making it 3 walls no infill (not 0%) and see what that gets you. concentric infill might be useful for thicker springs but I think you'll have to kind of eyeball the layers to see the results.

I don't know of any guides, I'm assuming everybody just wings it for their application. That said there are a lot of compliant machines being designed and printed and I'm wondering if there are better properties of 3d printing to exploit than spiral. Maybe not. Also you could always use a rubber band. Let me know what you come up with.
>>
>>2863471
skin is not uniform, it's irregular. >>2863196 lacks both skill AND talent.

which is ironic that he's the dipshit out there getting paid to make things he can't.
>>
File: had a bad day.jpg (255 KB, 1473x905)
255 KB
255 KB JPG
t-th-thanks bambu
>>
>>2863457
The type of spring made from piano wire would be a helical torsion spring, but the type that would likely be better for my application is a spiral torsion spring, thus the reference to using a strip rather than wire. The big advantages are more constant force and further travel compared to the helical spring. My project needs a lot of travel, probably so much I'll have to add some gear reduction in the meantime anyways. But 3d printed parts are already limited in the forces they can withstand without using exotic filaments, so a weaker more constant force of a spiral spring sounds a lot better.
>>2863474
For some reason I haven't considered wind up models but those sound pretty perfect - basically what I need, storing energy easily and releasing it in a small constant amount. A windup car does basically the same.
Thanks for the advice. I guess I'll just wing it myself to some extent, but it'll probably take a lot of time until I have something approaching functional, it's been a long time since I designed something more complex and I just recently switched to freecad. When I have something I will post here though.
For now the likely solution will be a spiral spring and some gears to trade force for travel time.
>>
>>2863482
Gave me a healthy chuckle, kek. Didn't know bambu studio had that feature desu, do you need to enable it somehow? I remember it being a thing on octoprint back in the day.
>>
I need something cool to make my Nephew for Christmas. Any one got any suggestions?
>>
>>2863499
https://makerworld.com/en/models/594789#profileId-516668

the main carriage is 9h at least. I'm in the middle of christmas production.
>>
>>2863495
It's an X1C exclusive feature, it's their only model with the right camera to utilize it. If you have an X1C then it's very easy to enable, just one check-box and it's running: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/studio-handy/print-options
>>
>>2863518
Well that explains why I never stumbled upon it and it does make sense that with the 90's snuff film tier camera on the A1 it wouldn't work well kek.
>>
>>2860796
cadquery is unironically easier than openscad (for me), it's also faster but I guess with the new python module, it should be a little faster than before.

>>2863456
cool, I didn't know about this. I want to find a library to make fucking bolts and nuts.
>>
>>2863537
modeling threads in f360 is the fucking jet. if they had offset it would be perfect but I'm fine with doing it manually.
>>
>>2863539
I personally prefer programatically cad because I am more used to programming, I use linux and I run a potato PC.

I hope the new Freecad version is worth using.
>>
>>2863474
>Let me know what you come up with.
Well I'm at fork in the road:
I can buy a spring that basically does what I need perfectly under the name "constant force spring" (used for car seatbelts)
or attempt to design something that can be printed, but will work worse. I'm printing a few prototypes rn to see how different parameters affect the potentially stored energy and how that energy is released. A spiral with 2mm walls, 1mm gaps inbetween the walls, and 6 windings out of PLA seems to store half a rotation before compressing fully while taking up ~4cm (with attachment point in middle) of diameter. Power delivery should be possible to smooth with a small gearbox.

So basically I have to decide if I want to go the cowards way and buy a commercial solution or the autists way and spend hours and days of my life optimizing just because I can. I'm positive it can be done, but unsure if I should kek.
>>
>>2863548
The thing that pisses me off about most foss cad kernels is the inability to properly present circles and arcs as smooth lines. In Onshape I can draw a circle in one plane, and then project that circle in to a perpendicular sketch anywhere along that circle and draw another feature that results in solid geometry. In Freecad, that circle cant be closed because the segments don't line up to the circle radius except in certain places.
>>
>>2863758
aside from hobby projects and simple stuff, is it possible to use programmatic cad software for anything serious?
>>
>>2863641
Wise designers prefer COTS for convenience and easy replacement.
>>
>Bambu skip object feature only works on the app for A1 machines
It's so retarded to hide features behind companion apps
>>
I hate supports so God damn much. How much better is pla/petg support combo? Sale is on tonight thinking of getting ams solely for support interfaces
>>
>>2863834
Pic rel
>>
>>2863835
You should first try different settings for the supports you are using because tree supports shouldn't be hard to remove. AMS isnt really great for changing filament for interfaces, unless your supports will be on flat plane you'll end up with a lot of purged material for interfaces that will also go to trash.
>>
>>2863825
Water is wet.
>>
>>2863846
Interface only should minimize changes, but petg is cheap as chips, anything that saves significant post work and improves quality at the same time is worth it. Also it's default settings I should probably change it to 0.25mm from 0.2 easier accessible areas remove fiddly areas are a pita. Just watched a video on pla/petg that seems so much better.
>>
>>2863834
>not modding your printer to draw on top of your supports using a sharpie
ngmi
>>
>>2863862
It's true that it's better, I so that at work and can just nicely peel off the interface. But we use Prusa xl so the interface is made with 2nd extruder. We tried to do it with Bambu ams but it was producing so much poop we stopped.
>>
Eurobros, where do you get your filament from? I've been using 3djake but they're kinda pricey with PLA being 20€+/kg
>>
>>2863834
I design my parts specifically to avoid using any supports and if I *NEED* them I generally just bake them into the CAD file instead of relying on a slicer.
>>
>>2863897
amazon, sunlu PLA, PETG and abs are sometimes for lest than 10 euro per 1kg spool on specific colors, you kinda need to follow them because sometimes promo is only for specific color etc, shiping is from china. If you need larger batches i think sunlu etc have stores on aliexpress and with coupon codes it will be even cheaper per spool, someting like 8 euro. Sunlu works fine for me but there is other brands at similar price, probably same chink company selling stuff under few brands
>>
>>2863897
Is Polymaker not available in Europe?
>>
>>2863903
How does import tax work with stuff from China these days, I've heard people mention that it's not a thing with some stores and under/over a certain amount of cash but I don't know the details.
>>2863905
Only through resellers and then it's still as expensive as the rest.
>>
>>2863906
There are cheaper filaments where I live (Canada) but I honestly don't think I'm going to bother with those anymore because I just get much better results with the Polymaker stuff and a couple bucks more per kg are worth the time spent not swearing at shitty filament that won't even complete the test prints without going full spaghetti.
>>
File: supports.jpg (111 KB, 875x873)
111 KB
111 KB JPG
>0.12mm layer height
>297.69g total
>237.901g model
>14h 17m

PETG support interface (with primer tower)
>371.24g
>pla 344.48g
>petg 26.86g
>18h 33m

no prime tower
>334g.21g
>pla 304.73g
>petg 24.49g
>16h 25m

Thats not bad at all
>>
>>2863906
every pruchase under 150euro on sites like aliexpress and temu is already with vat and every customs, you simply buy stuff and its delivered usually around week these days. Only if you buying stuff above 150 euro things are staying on customs and you have to pay any custom taxes, vat and i thing you have to give perrmision to shiping company that they can do all that stuff under your name. So for any kind of cheap fillamnet, even it 10kg batches you have nothing to worry about, just make sure you choose good seller on aliexpress because thats scamy site. I bought pack of PLA, ABS and 0,5KG of tpu from sunlu on amazon for 28 euro shipped from china, arrived in less than a week. Not all colors are that cheap, you kinda have to look for it because sometimes sale pops for one specific color for 8euro per spool and ends after couple of hours, i think amazon have some kind of automatic pricing system that changes prices depending on current demand
>>
>>2863914
Awesome, I'll take a look and hopefully pick up some neat stuff, thanks for the help.
>>
gonna get a a1 from the bambu sale, what else should I get with it, any filament recommandations or any Accessoir?
>>
File: 3d waifu.jpg (540 KB, 1536x2048)
540 KB
540 KB JPG
Which one?
>Bambu P1S and upgrade hotend and extruder gear to get "X1C"
>Bambu X1C
>QIDI Plus4

I know Bambu is somewhat reliable but you become dependent on their parts/support.
I don't know anything about QIDI, it's not a new Creality/Ender like where you have to print parts for the printer straight away is it? Not planning on AMS/QIDI box.
>>
>>2863972
i would go for qidi but wait for few months when they iron out every problem with early models. if i need printerr today q1 pro or p1s
>>
>>2863972
What are your requirements? If you don't know what to do with it might as well buy a proper, decorative paper weight.

>>2863897
I know it's not the price range you're looking for, but after my last bigger projects i started to opt for azurefilm after previously using DasFilament, filament4print and Formfutura. Maybe i'd be more concerned if my median wasn't 800g a month, outside of bigger project, but alas, i can tell myself it's a bit less chink shit in my household.
>>
>>2863972
>Individually articulated toes
I KNOW WHAT YOU ARE
>>
>>2863963
I know everyone mentions it, but you are going to regret not getting the AMS combo, so if budget allows be sure to get it
I'd recommend getting one or two rolls of Bambu filament if it's your first printer just to have presets already there and not have to fiddle too much with settings, but it's generally quite overpriced, just be sure it's a spool and not a refill.
>>
>>2863972
Bambu. Just look at the qidi prints posted in these threads. I want planning on the ams but I ordered one so I could do support interfaces easily.
>support
Again, bambu, there's way more in third party parts than Qidi since it's more popular. Both bambu slicer and orcaslicer are open source iirc, and iirc tye x1c even supports open source firmware if it exists yet, not that i would get rid of the magic sauce.

The brand you have to worry about being left with a doorstop is HeyGears since you literally have to log into their cloud to even use the slicer and nothing else works with it, so if they go down = no printing.

What do you actually want to print btw and a lot or infrequently?
>>
File: IMG20241022110719.jpg (710 KB, 1116x1200)
710 KB
710 KB JPG
Switched from Bambu PLA Basic to eSun PLA+ and I'm getting these weird, small.. imperfections. What could be the cause?
The eSun roll was opened around a month ago. Moisture? I did keep it in the bag with a desiccant pouch.
>>
>>2864198
In printing mainly with esun pla+ on a p1s and don't get these.. so not sure, are you using the esun pla+ profile? Though I'm not sure any other pla profile is vastly different enough to cause something like this
>>
>>2864198
Looks like popping due to moisture, desiccant pouch won't draw any moisture out of the filament if it's already gotten in.
>>
>>2864221
i had cheap pla in open air for 6months in winter and after getting blasted with air compressor to remove dust it printed just fine. And i was really worried about moisture, i guess air is really dry in my home
>>
>>2864227
The moisture could have gotten there during manufacturing, I've started drying every roll I buy, especially PETG because they seem to absolutely drench that stuff, just to be on the safe side and haven't had moisture issues since.
>>
>>2864228
>>2864227
My year+ only petg printed perfectly... though I still might get a dryer
>>
>>2864229
If it's just the occasional roll you can get away with just drying on the print bed, set it to 50c and place a box with a few holes in the top over the roll and leave for ~8 hours
>>
File: Capture.png (72 KB, 442x825)
72 KB
72 KB PNG
>>2864060
Okay I will definitely get it with the AMS I also added som nozzles and 4 filaments with spools + a 2nd plate. And dont I already get a spool with the printer? Should I also get the bambu glue thers a liquid one and another one? And for the TPU can i just get a cheap one for around 25usd locally?
>>
>>2864276
You could save a bit of cash and skip the second plate since you can just flip the first one if you need to for some reason. They're dropping a new build plate on November 12th, I believe it's a "cool" plate that functions at 30c but I haven't read into the function of it so I'm uncertain of its value.
You're gonna get a metal scraper with the printer, DO NOT USE IT, you'll ruin the plate if you try to scrape it like a windshield, either print a plastic scraper or just bend the plate when removing stuff, you can use the metal scraper to lift corners and edges but I'd recommend just letting the plate cool.
You really don't need glue when it comes to PEI plates, especially not on a bambu machine. If things don't stick it's because you got oils on it with your fingers and you just wash it with soap + a sponge. Maybe it's necessary for things like ABS but that requires an enclosure and that's a completely different beast.
I haven't tried bambu TPU so I can't speak to the quality of it, but you can't use current market TPU with the AMS. Also on November 12th they're going to unveil a special bambu TPU that does work with the AMS, so you can either wait with the TPU purchase until then or just use it without the AMS, no big deal really.
>>
File: 1726343262938944.jpg (327 KB, 1600x1200)
327 KB
327 KB JPG
>tfw first prints on our upgraded MK4s
The longer i stare at pic rel, the more meme it becomes. It's such a weird overkill. Two aluminium side brackets, heck maybe even plastic or just stamped altogether would've done the job with enough rigidity. Would've been less work as well. It's like they got a bending and suddenly had to use it for "something".
>>
>>2864300
*a bending machine.
Guess it's time to go home.
>>
>>2864287
Recently some cryo plates showed up from BIQU. They have one specifically for PLA/PETG. You can get away with very low heating(30c) or no heating for PLA on them, they are not great for anything else because adhesion will rip the special coating they have. Glue isn't used for better adhesion, it's mainly used as release agent for materials that stick too much, TPU/PCTG/ABS those are the main ones you shouldn't print w/o gluestick on textured plate. Prusa has a decent table for printing recommendations.
https://help.prusa3d.com/materials
>>
File: s-l1600_webp_92.jpg (319 KB, 1599x1200)
319 KB
319 KB JPG
Wanna make a low CG chassis for my RC truck. Not my pic, same vehicle. Twin vertical aluminium plate with printed supports or fully printed tub? Probably gonna use either CF-PETG or plain PETG.
>>
File: IMG_20240503_154531410.jpg (235 KB, 1272x954)
235 KB
235 KB JPG
>>2864316
ABS? it will be kinda hard to bit stock traxxas chasis, they are rather light and tough. I printed stuff like skid plates, bumpers etc for rc crawler but crawler are more like pickup trucks, with 2 axles on link suspension, 2 metal or carbon rails going along vehicle and braces beetwen them for storing ESC and batteries
>>
>>2864358
It's not a Traxxas, it's an ECX. Discontinued Horizon brand, competed with ARRMA back when they were new on the scene. There's no off-the-shelf LCG conversion on the market for this thing. And I'm not gonna print out of ABS cause 1) dimensional accuracy and 2) I don't have a fume hood or the means to install one
>>
I threw my printer into a tent and put a space heater in it. Chamber temp caps out at 49C if the bed temp is maxed. My garage is very cold rn so its the best I can do. Is there anything i should be concerned about like my mobo catching fire at 50C. I moved my pi outside the tent but the camera was already running hot in the chamber before the heater.
>>
>>2864390
Tents have always sketched me out for this reason. I’d want to upgrade the heat sinks on your stepper drivers if nothing else. For the camera, either run it cooler if you can (lower framerate) or try to stick/clamp a heat sink to it, assuming you can’t just point it through a window in the tent.

Watercool your printer.
>>
I started working with resin 2 days ago and used my printer again today. I've worn eye protection and a mask both times yet once I open the hood and the fumes come out my eyes and face get itchy. I still feel a bit itchy about half an hour later. Assuming this isn't normal, what's wrong?
>>
>>2864536
you're wearing gloves? put a fan on or open a window and leave some time between opening in and grabbing stuff?

short story you're allergic. long story check with >>>/tg/3dpg they are resin fags and might have better advice
>>
>>2864390
what printer? like a coleman tent? you can't put it in a closet or something? what is garage ambient? is this a noise vs your parents thing? theoretically I think you're good to 60C that's when anything made of PLA will start to deform. Still it seems like a bad idea overall since space heaters are not exactly something you can regulate. If you're using a propane heater you deserve all the horror that is coming to you, lol.

Despite that, I would try just a cardboard box over the printer no external source of heat. I pointed a space heater at my printer once to make it handle nylon, but it wasn't enclosed.

oh yeah, and most importantly: are your prints actually fucking up because of the temp or is this a worry wort situation where nothing actually happened?
>>
File: 20241022_203229.jpg (444 KB, 980x2016)
444 KB
444 KB JPG
>>2864379
>I don't have a fume hood
it's abs, it smells bad but it won't hurt you if you're not huffing the fumes and probably not even then. still PETG is fine and it's easy to print, pretty sure prints are less brittle than PLA. I wouldn't bother with -CF until your design is right and you cannot go stronger any other way. Orientation matters a shit ton as does infil and size and even the color PETG. If it does shatter rarely (as in not under normal use) you can just print another easily or have backup parts.

pic related this is indestructible, I changed the fill by 20% and used black and it tears like tissue paper.
>>
File: IMG20241023095226.jpg (384 KB, 800x600)
384 KB
384 KB JPG
White is Bambu PLA Basic
Black is eSun PLA+
Tried varying the nozzle temperature, from 190 to 225, no luck
Also tried increasing the retraction length to 1mm and z-hop to 0.6mm, no luck either.
Can't be because of bad/wet materials because because the Bambu PLA was opened just yesterday
>>
>>2864566
>Can't be because of bad/wet materials because because the Bambu PLA was opened just yesterday
Awww, he's so adorable.
>>
>>2864520
>Watercool your printer.
2030 goals. Truthfully I could move the mobo outside the tent as well but id be a good bit of work that might not be necessary. But Ill probably do it anyways. Qidi plus 4 has me wanting a heated chamber.
>>2864560
>PLA
>>
>>2864379
oh im sorry, i thought it is traxxas slash chasis. ABS will be good choice but u need to have enclousure and preferably heated one. PLA in my test is too brittle but its ez to print so its good for prototyping, maybe PETG. i was limited with material choice with open bedslinger and changed to core xy in enclosure
>>
So I have a part that looks like pic related. It needs to be printed standing up in this orientation so that the layer lines are parallel with that parting line in the middle of the part.

The backside of this part also looks like the front. Im wanting to reduce support material for the sake of cleanup. Wondering if I could make some type of break away support in the file itself. This part is about the size and thickness of a quarter and im printing with a .2mm nozle.
>>
File: orientation.png (87 KB, 494x400)
87 KB
87 KB PNG
rip in peace, it didnt post the picture
>>
>>2864566
I've never printed a tower or bench or test print, only parts. This is black esun pla+ came off this morning. I've gone through maybe 8 rolls of this. The only real issue I had is 1 tangled roll which I returned.
>>
>>2864600
>>2864601
Any reason you can't bevel those ridges so they can print overhanging? Even 30° might be fine. Tree supports are probably going to be the way to go for something so tall, but I'm no expert. You definitely could bake some sort of support structure into the STL if you knew what you were doing.
>>
>>2864566
>Can't be because of bad/wet materials because because the Bambu PLA was opened just yesterday
That is 100% wet filament, iirc it gets a water bath at the factory at the end of manufacturing and if it's not properly dried soon enough it's shipped quite wet
>>
File: pic.jpg (48 KB, 1280x521)
48 KB
48 KB JPG
Recently started using FreeCAD and got an issue with it, maybe some anon in here can help:
I want to create a sort of shape similar to a centrifugal pump, left part of the pic is a rough sketch of the cross section of what i want to make.
The issue isn't this specific part, but moreso an issue I have run into multiple times, so I wanted to ask here:
I have created the shape on the right, fully constrained and parametric.
The variables for the different dimensions I want are all stored in a spreadsheet and referenced as expressions like <<Variables>>.B4 or something like that.
Now I created the circle in a sketch in the right picture. I reference the outer diameter of the shape as a constraint to place the circle correctly based on the parameters. Now I want to extrude it and then do a boolean operation with the main part.
I have two options to do this:
The pad function in the part design workbench or the extrude option in the Part Workbench.
The extrude option does what I want (create a separate new body), but doesn't take expressions and thus none of my variables in the spreadsheet, so I can't parametrize it.
The pad option does take expressions, but for some fucking reason rather than just extrude the sketch it adds it to the whole body, so while I can add the outer part of the pipe, I can't add the inner part this way (that I want to carve out) since I can't do a cut boolean operation with it or I delete the shape again.

So is there either a way to extrude by a way that is parametric and easy to change, preferably with expressions, or is there a way to pad a sketch without it adding the body the sketch is attached to to the newly created padded part?
>>
>>2864646
It is I, king of the retards, who shouldn't ask questions late at night before going to bed it seems.
Turns out there's a pocket function that does what I want it to do perfectly right next to the pad function, so nvm.
>>
>>2864561
>I wouldn't bother with -CF until your design is right and you cannot go stronger any other way.
That was indeed the plan, the finalized peitns would be CF but I'd use regular PETG or even PLA for prototyping. There's no way PLA would hold up in actual driving though.
>If it does shatter rarely (as in not under normal use) you can just print another easily or have backup parts.
Breaking parts is just part of the hobby, wouldn't surprise or bother me
>>2864589
>i thought it is traxxas slash chasis.
Same style of truck, looks similar.
>u need to have enclousure and preferably heated one.
I don't have an enclosure and I don't plan on printing anything heavy duty enough to require one anytime soon. Open bedslinger too atm (Ender 3, who coulda guessed) and as long as it just werks I have no intentions of upgrading anytime soon. Like you mentioned PLA would be far too brittle but it's also piss cheap so I'll likely use it for prototyping. CF-PETG isn't too terribly expensive and from ehat I hear it helps with pronting accuracy as well as stiffness, both of which are good things in RC parts. Only downside is that it may be more brittle than regular PETG but I have no idea *how* brittle. If it's not a significant amount, I'll consider it.
>>
>>2864701
desu ive used cheapest PLA i could find and ender 3 for rc crawler part and unless it tumbled down really hard nothing broke. But chasis was made from chink carbon rails and aluminium tubes
>>
>>2864566
>He trusts manufactures to ship dry materials...
Time to cook plastic in your oven, Anon-san! Your shit cant be more wet.
>>
File: 1338070721503.gif (498 KB, 286x203)
498 KB
498 KB GIF
>>2864130
>Bambu. Just look at the qidi prints posted in these threads
The Qidi Plus4 seems to be on another level of Qidis though, on par with Bambu.
>What do you actually want to print btw
Functional parts, never toys. ABS/ASA and sometimes CF. Qidi +4 has heated chamber which will definitely help. If X1C had one it would be a no brainer choice, otherwise you need a blanket over X1C to get stronger CF prints. I haven't seen anyone print something like PPS-CF with +4 yet though...
>>
File: 1729557349398696.webm (2.62 MB, 482x640)
2.62 MB
2.62 MB WEBM
>>2859825
OP, please don't forget about >>2860087 and >>2860796
>>
>>2864843
Don't forget Solvespace: >>2862555
>>
File: IMG_20241024_105312_014_1.jpg (560 KB, 2879x1995)
560 KB
560 KB JPG
hello fellow plastic squirters
im printing picrel (a 22 magazine)
the bump in the walls (on each side of the arrow) keep printing at the same width, almost a full mm below the cad width (6.1 in cad, 5.2 mesured with calipers on the print)
it is printed in the orientation pictured, so im wondering if maybe the walls collapse inward before the top can be printed and stabilize the width, locking it at the wrong spacing
all other dimension follows the cad changes
id like it to be 5.6mm for obvious reliability reasons
any ideas ? im printing in pla+ with a 0.6 nozzle
i can post pics of the print this evening if it helps
>>
>>2864843
>>2864871
We're at page 6. Calm the fuck down.
>>
>>2864942
Assuming Orcaslicer, have you tried Walls printing order: Inner/Outer/Inner? I've had dimensional accuracy fixed just by that, but you might also try changing Wall generator to Arachne and see if it makes a difference. Seeing as it is a big print though maybe just do a small slice to see if the settings to anything.
>>
>>2864961
im running prusa-slicer
i didnt try printing the outers walls first (is that what you are suggesting ? i do print inner first i believe)
i am running arachne since it was released (hence the 0.6mm nozzle)
ill try with a small segment to see if it fixes my problems (but if it is a collapsing issue, the smaller should be worst)
>>
>>2864942
Your magazine looks like a penis on the inside
>>
>>2864950
But 367 posts. Usually OP creates a new thread around that number.
>>
>>2864978
i know
turns out the penis is the best profile for feeding 22lr rounds
>>
>>2864950
+ it's auto-sage currently.
>>
how do we get fa/g/gots to jailbreak bambu's firmware? they run linux on fridges for fun, for sure they can hack bambus to run doom, sorry, klipper.
>>
>>2864987
>/g/
Nu-gee can only assist you in brand wars, sorry.
>>
File: bassi_3d_printer.jpg (302 KB, 1280x720)
302 KB
302 KB JPG
>>2864987
Usecase for hacking Bambu when you can buy opensource Prusa?
>>
>>2864987
Bambu already allows you to install third party firmware on the X1C with a waiver iirc
>>
>>2864990
prusa is shit
>>
>>2864990
I'd rather support a sketchy chinese company than that smug pompous asshole
>>
>>2864990
All the jokes aside, i wish we would see more of that form factor again.
A 200x400 bed for those edge cases would've been welcomed more than once in my household, but alas everything has to be corexy these days..
>>
>>2864964
i found out why the dimension is fucked up
the plastic warps at the ledge, pulling it inward and making the outer walls convex
im not sure how i will unfuck that
>>
>>2865041
Why not just print it standing upwards?
>>
>>2864990
What the fuck is that A.I generated abomination?
Did it automatically want to put a smug bearded man next to an orange 3D printer?
>>
File: Fabstodies.jpg (36 KB, 695x391)
36 KB
36 KB JPG
Don't suppose anyone has these Fabulous Pillar Guardian files from back in the day?
>>
>>2865104
1. you need to call your mom
2. >>>/tg/ is the correct board for this
3. lurk more next time

file.io/OXNMr1Ojd26R
>>
>>2865107
It's already gone?
>>
>>2863786
I've seen it done. I don't personally, but I maintain interest in case some suite does it well enough to make it easier.
>>
File: 20241007_184052.jpg (1.92 MB, 4032x1960)
1.92 MB
1.92 MB JPG
>>2863834
amazing like a 20 year old hooker. swapping filaments adds a LOT of time to any print so I don't always use them but when I do the results are amazing.
>>
>>2863972
wait, what the fuck is that and where do I get one?
>>
File: 1729610077024482.png (11 KB, 1005x392)
11 KB
11 KB PNG
>>2865079
He's a very famous and wise use case warrior.
https://web.archive.org/web/20240426141427/https://wiki.installgentoo.com/wiki/Emmanuele_Bassi
>>
>>2865183
ok that was a good waste of 10 minutes
did installgentoo get erased like the murdercube?
>>
>>2865072
it is under spring tension and the follower rides along the layer lines
if i printed it standing i may have less quality on the feed lips (the business end), worst relability (layer lines locking between the follower and the magazine walls) and perhaps fracture along the layer lines from spring pressure
>>
>>2865219
i did managed to make it work with the curling inward
i reckonned that the curling wouldnt impact to much the interface with the spring guide (as it is warped, only the final dimension matter) so i bumped it again a bit and voila, no more locking and i have reliable magazine :)
>>
>>2865193
I don't know what is murdercube.
installgentoo has been offline sometimes. Someone didn't pay for DB.
>>
File: 1703610286617130.jpg (132 KB, 1486x1114)
132 KB
132 KB JPG
Given nothing is happening anyway, why aren't we seeing CNC cut kits anymore? All holes are perfect, minimal squaring needed, semi enclosed by default. I sometimes feel they were ahead of their time.
>>
Anyone else watch Bad Obsession Motorsport’s latest Project Binky video? They made a 3D printer that spits out solder so they could rapidly iterate and modify a circuit board design. Seems fundamentally flawed but still fascinating. I wonder if you could do so with it as one tool in a toolchanger printer?

>>2865621
I think the rigidity just isn’t there, especially with continuous vibrations. The sensible method for connecting corners and edges together would involve blocks that the plates bolt into, while existing printers seem to use finger-joints and captive nuts because they’re easy. But the big thing is using extrusions gives you both a place to mount your enclosure AND a place to mount your linear rails or v-wheels. I guess it matters less with guide rods.
>>
File: crash.gif (3.43 MB, 569x320)
3.43 MB
3.43 MB GIF
>>2864710
>rc crawler part and unless it tumbled down really hard nothing broke
Crawlers don't typically experience nearly the amount of stress that faster trucks do. I'm not particularly rough on my vehicles and I don't expect invincibility but these aren't parts I'd wanna replace with any regularity. I'll stick to breaking control arms and caster blocks please.
>>
>>2865635
>I think the rigidity just isn’t there, especially with continuous vibrations
Are you referring to zip tied constructions like replicator 1 or in general? On the later i would be quite confused as the whole market is swamped by certain sheet metal designs and ultimaker has been doing walls as frames for years now.
On the contrary, I'd argue a markforged or pantheon like top plate is basically the end game oif rigidity regarding XY.
>>
>>2865635
>Seems fundamentally flawed but still fascinating
If it makes functional prototypes I don't see the issue. Haven't seen it yet but I don't suppose they plan on using it for the "final" version of the boards. Check if the board you wanna make works as you intend then get today's video's sponsor pcbway™ or some shit to make a real board once you get it right.
>>
>>2865694
Designs like what you posted an image of, though I haven’t seen many acrylic frame printers that aren’t just open bedslingers. The advantage with sheet metal is you can bend it with precision, that bend adds a lot of rigidity, but still probably not enough local rigidity to mount a linear rail to. Perspex and plywood just can’t compete.

>>2865696
I’m not sure if they’ll use it as their final board, but they’ve spent the time and soldered all their shit to it as if it’s going to be.
>>
How do i line up someone else's model files by the hole cut in them? I want to cut a larger hole
>>
>>2865773
Make a sketch with a circle on the face they cut into, constrain it to the hole they cut, that way you found your center, draw a bigger circle that you want to cut, extrude it and then do a Boolean difference.
>>
File: 1709619121320582.jpg (63 KB, 1024x1024)
63 KB
63 KB JPG
>>2865702
As i said, ultimaker did it for years and they only dropped it to entrench themselves further into professional territories.
>>
File: asdadd.png (83 KB, 1118x845)
83 KB
83 KB PNG
freecad chads, i want to make hole along that line thru that ring, how am i supose to do that, only way that came into my mind was switching to part workbench, adding cylinder and moving it into place and then boolean but its pain to move that exacly where i needed (and i need specific angle, specific diameter) (that one is 45' but i need also similar holes going thru ring along different angles
>>
im designing a machine to respool old plastic spools with new plastic.
one thing i cant figure out for the life of me is how to start the spooling process, i.e. how do i fix the filament end to the spool? any solutions i find either use one type of spool and thus the fixing tab is always in the same location (this wont work for me, since i have different sizes and types of spools), or theres a chink threading the end of the filament by hand (i want to automate this).
can anyone point me to something similar to research? how do people solve similar issues with wire or cable spooling?
>>
File: thewheel.jpg (638 KB, 1897x976)
638 KB
638 KB JPG
>>2865850
the question is more how you want it to run out. bambu spools just have a few mm in a hole and pop right out. Others lock it in fully so the printer just stalls trying to pull it out. I've seen the end just taped down.

The problem you haven't mentioned is internal spool diameter isn't fixed so you need like a 55mm, 60mm, 65mm and 70mm axle adapters just to cover "most" spools and that's a set for each side. Obviously you could use stepped rims or cones or some fancy expansion to solve this but you didn't mention.

In any case the simplest is to drill a hole thread the filament lock it with your axle adapter spool the roll then release. You're automating drilling a hole at that point and if you're not a filament company I'm gonna get confused as to why you're doing this.

For hobbyist I'd suggest printing an internal adapter s.t. fit to the diameter of the spool the inside wrapping diameter is consistent (73mm) and contains a compliant mechanism to retain the end of the filament. In this way your chink in a tesla robot suit will always insert the filament end in the same place in the same way.

Again, with $9 spools and you not being a major filament company I question why you would pursue no touch automation beyond the actual spooling, but retards gonna retard. I mean it all exists but you can't afford the actual equipment to do it right.

There are sub $30 respoolers available and dozens if not 100s of prints that have already been designed with all kinds of wack ass tension and guiding bits so I'd love to hear why you think reinventing this particular wheel is such a needful thing, especially when you can't even understand how to tie the filament into the spool end.
>>
File: collagehq.jpg (2.56 MB, 4000x3000)
2.56 MB
2.56 MB JPG
I love the idea of priting your own phone case and customizing it exactly how you like it.
has anyone ever made phone cases that don't suck? in my experience they always
>feel like shit
>are slippery af with every material
>are somewhat ill fitting and pull away from the screen
>look bad becasue TPU looks bad
I'm thinking maybe it's a skill issue and you can get perfect walls and overhangs with TPU and maybe lower shore hardness TPU variants are more grippy but I'm just guessing.
picrel is the one I made from petg and tpu since the case I bought is still due to arrive in a couple of days. Sticker is so it doesn't slip as much
>>
File: baby-mobile-phone.jpg (75 KB, 700x500)
75 KB
75 KB JPG
>>2865873
bigger print lines?
better tpu?
try fuzzy skin?
try matte PLA?
sculpt actual knurls into design (essentially emulate print lines going vertically)

I've never done a phone case but I've also never had trouble holding on to my prints. then again I haven't opened my spool of TPU so I only have experience with the PLA-like-TPU on my old printer. I would say normal matte PLA is the best for grip and black PETG is the worst, but I have a big 4x4 knob in my toyota that is black PETG and I can roll it with 1 fingertip. then again I don't have weak little girl hands either.
>>
File: 20241021_145959.jpg (2.12 MB, 4032x1960)
2.12 MB
2.12 MB JPG
Having my first of a dozen 3DHojor rolls shitting the bed in the AMS. It's not even the cardboard spool it's loosely wrapped on one side and keeps digging into the spool and stalling the motor.

The weird thing is this is the exact problem I had with the last spool from anycubic (pic related) and I've never had the problem with 3DHojor spools.

Fucking maddening.
>>
>>2865848
You can still use partdesign. The attachment editor can place a sketch such that the line is a normal, and then you can make a pocket or hole from the sketch. You can repeat pockets using a polar pattern, but I don't think you can specify a list 45, 82 so instead you would need multiple polar patterns unless it's a regular arithmetic sequence.
>>
File: three-jaw-chuck.jpg (99 KB, 1080x1088)
99 KB
99 KB JPG
>>2865850
I like this design. You can reassemble it with the jaws facing outwards. For printing, an inside-out nylon cable gland might be an easier design, since I think the rotating joint between the upper and lower rings of the printed three jaw chuck will be hard to get right, whereas the cable gland just needs matching (say) acme threads that can be pretty loose.
>>
>>2865871
im not worried about runout action, as long as the end is fixed somehow so i can actually spool the roll..
I didnt mention different internal spool diameters, because i solved this issue (with simple cones youve mentioned).
i really cant drill holes in the spools. this should be repeatable many times and im not going to hit the same spot everytime, thus drilling a new hole every time doesnt sound viable.
honestly, im pursuing this more as an exercise, thus some requirements might sound wack.
>For hobbyist I'd suggest printing an internal adapter s.t. fit to the diameter of the spool the inside wrapping diameter is consistent (73mm) and contains a compliant mechanism to retain the end of the filament. In this way your chink in a tesla robot suit will always insert the filament end in the same place in the same way.
could you expand on this. not sure what you mean.
also, im not really short on cash, so feel free to suggest any expensive solutions too.
>>
Guess regular OP is still sick, but i think we had a good run.
>>2865900
>>2865900
>>2865900
We're even starting with double digits this time.
>>
File: 20241027133666.png (3.92 MB, 1800x1659)
3.92 MB
3.92 MB PNG
New Bread Faggots
>2865911
>>2865911
>>>2865911
>>2865911
>2865911
The anti-spam measures don't like these posts.
>2865911
>>2865911
>>>2865911
>>2865911
>2865911
Pretty gay if you ask me.
>2865911
>>2865911
>>>2865911
>>2865911
>2865911
>>
>>2865914
I started up the threadripper and collage maker, made some coffee, made a sandwich, and I come back to this. Disastrous~
>>
>>2865919
What am i supposed to say? I had black bread with gouda.
>>
File: pink.jpg (1.34 MB, 3434x1593)
1.34 MB
1.34 MB JPG
>>2865873
I did a pure TPU case, it isn't that slippery, it fits well (but is a bit too small so the edge is a bit deformed)
>>
>>2863972
i want this model.
does the guy that made this selling it anywhere?



[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.