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Hello Everyone,

I'm not the best solderer but I'm trying to improve.

I recently bought an old camcorder and am using a cheaper non proprietary method of powering the camera.

I got two drone batteries that's are the same voltage as the original manufacturer battery but just have a question.

In the photo, if I snip the plug off one of these batteries and solder ground to ground, and positive to positive, would both batteries charge and they would have double the capacity since they would be parallel?

I snipped one of the charging cables and wired it directly to the camera battery pins, so I could use the two pin connector. Tested it out and it does work so far.

It charges from a two pin female plug to USB. Just wondering if it would charge, being in parallel.

Thanks,
N
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>>2862902
May we see it
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File: 1000032180.jpg (2.99 MB, 3072x4080)
2.99 MB
2.99 MB JPG
>>2862904
Sure, here ya go.
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>>2862902
The charge controller looks for voltage, so there's no reason why it wouldn't work.
Just don't solder directly to the batteries unless you hate having fingers.
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>>2862902
>>2862907
So did you rip out the original battery? Or by two batteries, do you mean you’re going to use one of those purple guys parallel with the old camcorder battery?

If that’s the case, I would remove the old camera battery assuming it’s shot. If you have one old shot battery and one healthy battery in parallel like that, some wonky stuff can happen and could lead to an early death of the purple cell.
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>>2862902
yup, just wire the other battery in parallel so you have double the battery capacity
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File: dual_par_18650_holder.png (573 KB, 1115x677)
573 KB
573 KB PNG
>>2862902
why are you messing with that RC/drone shit?
just get picrel and get regular 18650s and charge them in a regular 18650-capable charger like regular AAs as god intended.

It’s not like your camera is gonna draw enough current to drain the battery in 10 minutes like power tools do.
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>>2862902
Not a good idea. It would charge at least once, but it won't be able to balance between the two batteries. Unless their capacities are extremely close to each other (unlikely due to manufacturing tolerances) you might end up overcharging one. With Li-Ion batteries, that can cause an explosion depending on how much overcharged it gets.
I'd just put in one battery and live with the reduced capacity.
>>
use flux it melts like butter. Also if you're soldering for really tiny things you'll need a needle head. I still suck at soldering though.
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>>2863056
Those wires can be soldered with anything, you'll just destroy more of the insulation if you use something very oversized.
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>>2862902
if you're gonna have dangling shit, just solder a DC connector and power it off of a usb power bank with some buck voltage adapter. or plug it into the wall later since it's more versatile to power now with that plug.
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>>2862998
He's wiring them in parallel, not series. They'll naturally stay pretty close. If that weren't the case, all those parallel configurations out there would be blowing up all damn day.
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>>2862902
This seems like an appropriate place to ask. I got a nice robot vacuum (ecovacs T30S) from one of those Amazon return pallets for next to nothing. I didn't expect it to work without some tinkering.
I can get a few minutes of functionality with the bot connected at the dock, but get a quick shutdown to "protect" the battery. The unit needs to be powered on to begin charging and I think this is where I'm fucked since its too dead to initialize charging. I do suspect the battery is the primary issue and wanted to know if there is a way to test these and apply a charge on the cheap. A replacement battery is about $80. I'll get one if I need to, but I'd imagine there's a /diy/ method.
14.4vdc/4800mah
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>>2866697
Forgot pic and I did verify 20vdc off the contacts on the charging station if anyone was gunna ask
>>
>>2866697
>>2866699
So what is the battery pack at? Did you measure that?

This is why I love muh power supply, you could try to recover the low cell(s) enough to get it to charge. I bet those wires are balancing wires for the 4S (14.4V) pack. If you stick a multimeter on pin #1 and pin #5, you should get the 14.4V (~16,5V fully charged). If you measure between 1/2, 2/3, 3/4 etc, and that’s giving you the voltage for each cell and the four readings add up to the total, then those are balancing wires. Ideally you would want to go cell by cell with the power supply and try to bring each cell up to like 3V and then toss it on the charger.

As a crapshoot, you could maybe rip apart a USB cable and if those are balancing wires, stick the 5V from the USB charger on each individual cell to bring them up enough for the charger to recognize it, but you need to watch it with the multimeter. Also if the cells are super dead, normally you recover them with a very small current until you hit like 2V, then crank up the charging current, so not sure how they will like a 5V/1A+ USB power brick going at it.
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>>2866725
I'm getting hard 0s on 1 & 5. I'm making good contact with the pins, I can see them get pushed down a hair.
It's hard to see in this picture, but there is some type of circuitry involved. I'm unsure if that's what's giving me bad results. There's also no continuity between 1 and 5 or any other combination of pins.
I do want to avoid cutting the heat shrink around these cells if i can. I'm not above electrical tape, but the tolerance for the battery tray are those you'd see in a rocket. I'm afraid I'll never get it back in if I use tape.
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>>2866738
>pic
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>>2866738
>>2866739
So it feels like there’s circuitry in there? Then that board probably shut all power off when the voltage got too low.

Thay happened with the Ryobi battery in this pic >>2866725 so I couldn’t even charge it from the main 18V + and - contacts because the low voltage protection built into the board cut the power. I was getting like 80mV at the main + and - contacts even though the pack was around 10V. So I had to rip the tamper proof cap off and go straight to the cells, and once I brought the low cells back above some threshold, the board let power through again and I was getting ~15V at the + and - contacts. Some battery-tool combos either have most protection circuitry in the battery while others have the circuitry built into the tool and charger.

Do you get anything like >1.0V DC between any of the other 2 pins?

I mean if you really want to try and save it, you only need to cut a tiny slit in the plastic at the ends of each cell to poke them with a wire or probe and then can hit it with electrical tape, but there’s no guarantee the cells are all going to be good and the pack will work.
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>>2866767
I'm gunna cut it open this evening when I get home, ill figure something out with re-wrapping the cells. I'm a little concerned with tampering with a Chinese Li ion battery; we've all seen the videos. I'm hoping there is a way to bypass the circuitry without removing any solder joints. I'm not exactly the best at soldering but that just comes down to lack of experience.
Messing with it again last night, I ran into a forum post on an identical model stating to "reactivate" the battery after a depletion by a series of connect/disconnects to the charger. No luck, but the charge indication through the app went from 1% to 100%. I don't trust the app and will definitely need to get a true reading on each cell.

Also, while we're somewhat on the topic, my work supplies us with Klein clamp meters. I love it, but recently saw a fluke clampmeter (347 FC) added to the catalog. What's the boner everyone has for fluke multimeters and should i get one (the fluke would stay in my home collection of company bought tools)? They both look like they have the same features and any tiny improvement on accuracy isn't THAT important with what I do.
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>>2866899
Each cell is reading 3.5V and 14.6V at the top terminals on the board. There is a p+/- solder joint on the board correlating with pins 1/2 & 4/5 that were suggested to be tested. The reading is .009V at those joints. I'm no expert with identifying board components by just looking at one. It's attached with adhesive and don't think I can remove it without risking damage.
>>2866767 what do you make of this?
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>>2867030
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>>2867030
Looks good.
The “planned obsolescence” timer probably went off and disabled them so you buy a new one.
Lithium ion is like inkjet printer ink.
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>>2867030
If you’re getting 3.5V per cell, then the cells are probably still good. So if you’re getting 0V at P+ and P-, there’s something going wrong in the board. A 14.4V pack wouldn’t go into a low voltage protection with that.

Does anything look burnt up or exploded or corroded that you can see?

>>2867030
The little yellow wire hanging in the cells here might be the temp sensor. You might be able to try and read resistance wherever that connects to the board to make sure you get a good reading on that. The electronics thread would probably know more if you could get good pics of the board. I’m curious if the NTC2 is a temp wire or communication.

>>2866899
As for the Flukes, they’re super reliable and should be accurate out of the box. It’s another one of those tools where the premium isn’t worth it for the average DIYer at all, but you could justify it if you’re using it 40hrs a week and don’t mind spending an extra $300 to guarantee your safety and be reasonably sure it will work every day after being bounced around in a tool bag. That 347 looks straight, it does AC and DC current which is good and has inrush. If I had an extra $1200 to spend, I would grab an 87 MAX and a clamp like that one. They have a neat clamp that can actually read AC voltage fairly accurate with the clamp, not sure which model # but it has some yellow at the tip of the red clamp. But that Fluke 347 has the functionality of like a $100 Klein or Uni-T. There’s also Amprobe which is Fluke’s little brother and not as much of a premium.
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>>2862907
>>2862904
>>2862902
Op, odds are you can't charge your drone battery wired the camera, you have to take them out.

The camera probably has a nicad charger, you'll ruin your lion or lipo cells if they don't just blow up

This thread is half a month old, I probably won't check back, good luck.
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>>2867090
Nothing looks bad visually but I can't see any individual component until I figure out how to remove the board without risking damage. Everything is connected with adhesive. From what I've read up on, the NTS circuitry is connected to thermistors for temperature sensing. I may see about disabling/bypassing that just to verify functionality if those are the culprit.
Unfortunately I get off work late and have a needy gf, so I don't have much time to fuck with it during the week. At the end of the day though, it looks like I'm going to have to replace the battery as a whole. I can't see much sense in trying to repair that board if it is just a bad thermistor or FET, although i probably will try to get it functioning in the future just for the learning experience.
I'm gunna move this over to /ohm/ if further troubleshooting is needed. I appreciate your help with finding a good starting point.
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>>2867274
If the blue wire is for the thermistor, you can measure resistance between the blue wire and probably the ground and you should get a resistance that correlates with the room temperature where you are. It could be between blue and the + wire as well. I think those sensors are pretty generic so you could probably do some googling and find what the value should be for like 70F or whatever the room temp is. If that’s all out of whack, that’s an easy fix because you can bypass it with any resistor that mimics a good working temp, although you lose a layer of protection for the battery.

I wonder what kind of data is on that board and if there’s any communication between the battery and charger/vacuum. If there’s no communication and assuming it would fit, you could order a 4S BMS board for a couple dollars on Amazon or Ebay and solder that in. I did something similar with a jumper pack and a fried charging board. If you do that though, you have to make a decision on whether you’re trying to learn and mess around or you want to get the vacuum working, because a new battery online might be easier if you don’t give a shit about the learning experience.



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