What's the purpose of a lap joint in pliers? Is it only to cut cost? Why do side cutters usually have a lap joint, but combination/lineman's pliers have a single joint? Should I buy pic rel long nose Irwins or pay extra for the regular ones with a single joint?
Lap joint allows for more force to applied at the handles, but at the expense of more pinch points and gaps where small wires in tight spaces can get hung up, like inside a telephone or similar equipment box.Single joint is smoother operating and better for that kind of precision work that doesn't take a ton of input force.
>>2873982>irwin>premiumpick one
>>2873982This >>2874024Are those even manufactured in Japan or Germany? That’s all we care about over here!>>2873982For single joint, are you talking about like cheap channellocks and slip joint pliers with a nut and bolt? Because if you’re talking about that, the single joint pliers never really have cutters or precision tips that need to line up closely. Most real linesman pliers would be like a lap joint so the jaws close precisely and the cutting edges line up. The single joint pliers like cheap channellocks and slip joints only exist for closing force, some side to side movement is ok with those pliers. But even then, the higher quality versions of those tools are often box joints like most of the German water pump pliers. And not many are held together with a threaded fastener unless there’s a specific purpose because a quality company can rivet a smooth and tight joint on pliers.
>>2874024>>2874036I just want a cheap beater long nose for yanking screws out of the wall in hard to reach places, etc. for precision work, I already have a shitload of pliers, like small engineer with a spring and long ass knipex and some flat ones, etc.,. I was using 4$ pliers for this purpose and it was fine but it rusts just from looking at it. I'm also considering pic rel Milwaukee, but they're twice the price and look somewhat nice, so beating them too much would feel kinda bad>For single joint, are you talking about like cheap channellocks and slip joint pliers with a nut and bolt?I'm talking about the joint combination or lineman's pliers usually have, like the middle one in your pic
>>2874040Just get some beefy long nose pliers or linesmans you like then. Going with the cheapest is iffy because soft steel always sucks when you need to grab and bite onto something, but you may not need premium premium if you don’t need the best cutting edge or precision tips.Some 8” long nose from any of the usual suspects will probably work for your purpose. Tbqhwy, I never really cared for typical slip joints, but I’ve been using my Twingrips for stuff like that because they designed the tips of those for grabbing and twisting, unlike lots of precison long nose pliers that will bend and snap. The twingrips are more usefull all around than the Engineers IME.If you want to try something new and quality without dropping $40+ on Knipex, go on Amazon and check out Tsunoda or however it’s spelled. Fujiya as well, their Japan stuff is a couple bucks more but I got a pair of their Vietnam-made Engineer style screw grippers for like $14 and it’s real nice.But I also got some Wiha 8” long nose pliers from Lowe’s and those are beefy enough for yanking, they seem pretty solid and were on clearance at Lowe’s for like $15. They’re pliers, get what you think fits your application and spend enough to get the quality you expect.I think Icon has some Snap On Talon Grip knockoffs coming out soon, those might fit your application as far as more precision nose but able to be beat on a little.
>>2874040>>2874046If you’re thinking about the non-USA Milwaukees like your pic, I have 3 or 4 different pliers from them. They’re straight, about what you would expect from a Home Depot or Lowe’s name brand. On par with Channellock maybe. The Knipex Cobras are way nicer just in jaw design and little things compared to the Milwaukees, but cost an extra 30%-40%. The one thing I will say is this Milwaukee grip might be my favorite of any pliers.
>>2874046>but I’ve been using my Twingrips for stuff like that because they designed the tips of those for grabbing and twisting, unlike lots of precison long nose pliers that will bend and snap. The twingrips are more usefull all around than the Engineers IME.I'm talking about stuff twingrips are too bulky for. I've been running into situations when I have to extract a screw a bit before I can use twingrips and every single long nose pair I have, other than cheap old rusted ones, seems way too delicate and precision-oriented for it. I don't think knipex has any sturdy long nose in their listing. I tried buying extended flat nose ones (pic rel, 30 16 160, VDE, because they were cheaper, same price as Irwin without a lap joint), because the tip is much bigger and seems considerably more durable, but the teeth are more oriented towards not damaging the material and were slipping a lot.
>>2874053Yea those are closer to 6” long.I know picrel I eyed, I believe these are the ones they had at Lowe’s and I was really tempted because they claim they have some special design where they do good twisting stuff unlike most other long nose pliers. Never bought them, but for $31 it’s tempting, even if they’re not exactly what you wanted, that’s only a few bucks more than Milwaukees and Irwins.The Wiha long nose I got have a diagonal slot pattern on the jaws, IIRC the top and bottom are opposite directions so they grip pretty well no matter which way you’re pulling, so sounds like you may want to look for some pliers advertising “crosshatch” jaws.The Tsunoda yellow grip duckbill pliers are like that as well.The reason I mentioned the twingrips, the one issue inherent in most pliers is when you grip something hard, the angle of the jaws is always trying to push it out the end of the jaws. If you get a slip joint like the twingrips, then you can open the jaws so they’re parallel with eachother when you’re grabbing stuff.
>>2874053>>2874068Here’s the Wiha ones I got on clearance at Lowe’s. If you look at em online, you can probably find a pic of the teeth on the jaws and see what I mean about the crosshatch. I honestly got them on an impulse buy because they were cheap, but they’re pretty damn solid long noses that can hold up to a little force.
>>2874053>>2874072…and here’s the 8” Tsunoda duckbills. I got these because why not try some Japan made pliers for <$15, and I love the things. That flat jaw is super useful in certain spots, they do a good job twisting, and the crosshatched teeth on them are great. Some other anon shilled these pliers and I snagged them and they’re always in my go-bag.
>>2874074>>2874053….maybe these ones aren’t crosshatched like the Wihas, but they’re sharp and really well machined teeth. Can’t go wrong for the price, still temped to try more from the brand.
>>2874068I ordered them recently on amazon for the equivalent of 18$, not even on sale, also bought Knipex pliers wrench and Stanley panoramic tape measure, unlocking some prime deal, so I got 15% off the whole order, but I live close to Germany. I'd be afraid to use them for any harder yanking and twisting, even if they're better designed for it, considering how long they are
>>2874078It sounds like you want picrel then. I’m not sure how wide these jaws are, but assuming they’re thinner than typical linemans, that’s probably the perfect application.Otherwise look at linemans that aren’t fuckhueg. And look how wide the jaws are, because “high leverage” will mean for a given jaw opening, you need to open the handles wider than standard leverage pliers. There’s so many damn plier options from quality brands so it’s hard to recommend stuff since only you have an idea of where you’re actually going to be sticking those jaws.
>>2873982is this is one of those samefagging tripfag tool threads ive read about?
>>2873982I ordered lap joint ones, but for some reason I actually received the regular model (the one tested by Project Farm) I didn't want to pay extra for. the problem solved itselfthey look sturdy and the tip seems strong enough
>>2874040
>>2875851I have TwinGrips, but I'm talking about running into cases where there's not much wiggle room, but still a lot off yanking and twisting is involved. I need something that's basically long nose lineman's. So far I found two pairs that fit my bill: Irwin and Milwaukee long nose. I've bought both (and also yet another Knipex, 26 11 200, which have too long and delicate tips, but their uniquely long jaws will be great for other things) and both are fine for what I need them for, but Milwaukee is much better made (no wobble, unlike Irwin, etc.) and they're my go heavy duty long pliers now, even though Irwin is supposed to be more durable according to Project Farm.
>>2876417*my go to heavy duty long nose pliers
>>2875851I would never buy these from no name Chinesium brands. If there’s one tool where you really need the jaws to be sharp and stronger than the hardware, it’s those things. And I’ve never had cheap pliers that could get a good grip on anything hardened:
>>2876417can't think of any place you can use a plier that you couldn't use a screwdriver (or ratchet wrench)>>2876444>thinking chinese is inherently shit (and smerican is inherently quality); must be the new russian means rustyyeah, there's shit, but also:got picrel for free (two, actually, because both times they sent me different model from ad); they're absolutely top notch.cutter in pic came in a set of three different ones for 5 € total, same brand; also absolute top notch.my (fused) multimeter cost me just over 10 € and is as accurate as a fluke, tested with a bench multi, well under 0.5% error.many such casesfuck meme brands
>>2876457Go cut some steel wire with those pliers, or grab some grade 8 nuts with it and try to turn it. I say the heat treatment specifically because that and the grade of steel is the easiest place where the ant people can cut costs but the pliers will still look just as good as the $30 pliers. Even reputable companies who make companies meant for the trades like Channellock or Irwin still can’t get their stuff to bite and cut nearly as good as a brand like Knipex, and those pliers are $20+ with a brand name that cares about maintaining their image.Pircrel is an example of pliers that look nice, but the one on the left is shitty heat treat and steel after it comes in contact with the hard steel shaft of a medium sized electric motor. When the teeth are rounding off like that, you can’t grip shit
>>2876463>says home series for a reason...>have an actual wire cutter for that, btw.anyway, picrel is german (actual Made in Germany from decades ago (it's from the 60s; lost (hammered, iirc) paint and labels long ago); as you can see, that didn't stop it from breaking (still in the 60s, from simple home work, btw); it was welded back, and has kept going since then, though.name brand and cost means nothing. chinese business model is completely different from western:western (traditionally...) prizes vertical integration: companies aim to control as much of the business cycle as possible, from design and production (even raw materials...) to retail and aftermarket, if not 2nd hand, if they're so allowed. and you pay development, production, qc rejects, advertisement, event, pro/celebrity sponsoring, retail chain placement, warranty provisions, etc., etc.Chinese, you could call it horizontal business model: manufacturers (maybe even designers, before that) offliad to as many wholesalers as possible, and these to as many retailers as possible; at each stage responsibility is also offloaded to next guy. spend zero on qc, advertisement , sponsoring, spokesmen, placement and warranty.un the end, quality may be exactly the same, but one you're paying all the extra guarantees (needed/warranted or not...,), the other you (may) be on your own, if anything goes wrong.it's a choice you have to weigh.
>>2876478oh, sorry; just noticed it says Peugeot there; so it's french lolmust've mistaken it for another one.
