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File: IMG_4441.jpg (8 KB, 273x185)
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I’m pretty close to switching to an older bike, if there an objectively best era for vintage steel bikes?
>>
>>1941180
80s ones are nicer to ride I'd say, just because they've got some better components on them. Later on companies starting figuring out how to make designs less retarded for the brakes, derailleurs, wheels, etc.
>>
>>1941180
late 80's early 90's. Albeit they are making good steel frames right now.
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>>1941180
90s mtbs
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>>1941199
yeah good steel frames nobody can afford
>>
that might depend on your objective

1980s to 1970s 1020 plain gauge steel frame, costs 1$ or maybe 50$ never used and dusty or poorly adjusted and rusty, somehow still works
>weighs 13 to 15 kg (10 kg if you can into thin gauges of 4130 and small frames)
>the brakes suck
>high gear's only
>flexy wet noodle frame and fork
>more tire clearance, random chance of 32
>longer chain stays + less toe overlap
>slightly more upright posture and sleepy handling

1990s frame made of what's pretty much stainless steel, frame alone may be 300 to 400 $ either a spotless museum peace or so badly worn its unusable
marginally lighter, most of the weight is still the wheels and drive train still
weird gimmicky tube and lug geometry
stiff bouncy frame, you'll feel every tiny pebble
maybe 25 mm tires fit, probably not
only slightly less buzzy than a 7000 series alloy frame
tucked rear wheel for twitchy handling, no time to chill the bike will steer wherever it wants too
still may have annoying overlocknut distance on the rear axle, 7 speed jammed into 126 mm .etc
at least get 8 or 10 speed desu, its the same chain width and makes gear selection less of a compromise
>>
>>1941222
If you’re buying something that old, why not a nice Columbus tubed race bike with 600 or better? Costs the same.
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>>1941240
mainly its the tendency of later steel framed bikes to be so stiff, particularly fork blades
you get the downsides of a modern performance bike and few of the benefits of steel as a material
I have a Columbus tubed bike but I dont ride it much, its faster for the same effort as my worse bikes, but its really fatiguing to use.
>>
>>1941252
I mean if you buy a 1980s bike and it’s not even branded chromoly tubes, just why?
>>
>>1941252
it's either geometry/fit, or placebo. you can't tell the difference between two bikes with the same geo/build made of two different kinds of tubing
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>>1941300
extreme cheap 1020 steel for when 2 extra kg ain't a big deal to you
most chrome molly frames aren't all that light anyway, and if its from the 1980s and listed as chrmo its likely a little high end
get 0.9 0.6 0.9 its reasonably light and cheap and usable
and if you really have to lift your bike over multiple fences a day go alloy
>>1941302
>two bikes with the same geo
its unlikely, like a beach cruiser in 0.7 0.4 0.7
>>
>>1941252
>I have a Columbus tubed bike but I dont ride it much, its faster for the same effort as my worse bikes, but its really fatiguing to use.
A race bike that's fast but tiresome, who would have though huh?
>>
>>1941206
>yeah good steel frames nobody can afford
I don't know, a complete steel bike from Cinelli starts at 800 Euros and that's Columbus tubing. Frame alone is 450.
>>
>>1941199
agree
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>>1941180
it's really all about Hetchins
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>>1941252
Give it to me, I'll ride it
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>>1941180
80's japanese is optimal for price to performance, 90's stuff you get more performance but costs more.

Honestly my favorite bike is an old 80's moser since I weigh probably 80lbs over the recommended weight it's nice and smooth. I wouldn't get a stiff mountain bike for road riding, I would get something that can take 28's run em at 60-80psi and just go fast.

My dad got custom columbus slx and spx bikes made and they are harsh like a mountain bike, except they can barely fit 28's.
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>>1941460
F. Moser is sexy as fuck and many use old Mannesmann tubing. Hard to find nowadays, but real nice quality.
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>>1941460
>80s japanese is optimal for price to performance
Word. 80s Fujis are sexy. I'm looking for one to rebuild.
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>>1941466
Yeah I might post mine, Dad got it shipped from europe back when ebay was smaller(15-20years ago). The picture of Moser's face is great on the seat tube.
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>>1941180
Look for this lil nigga. It was ubiquitous on high-spec classic bikes.
600 tricolor is the platonic ideal of a vintage groupset (although to boomers, it was one of the first modern groupsets, and is not vintage).

It easily allows you to address the two major problems with vintage road bikes

>narrow gearing
>poor braking

And you can buy decent parts off the shelf for it, cheaply.

Tricolor came in the late 80s. You have this tech trickling down through 105, exage 500 and exage 300 until the late 90s.
Basically you want a cassette rear wheel and indexed downtube shifters. Bonus for dual pivot brakes.

Many decent club level cromo bikes specced exage or 105 and those are also often very good buys.

The major thing to avoid, when you start out, is STI shifters, or campagolo ergopower. Even 10 year old sets of those can have issues. It can be possible to bring them back to life, but IME, your chances of success are around 50%, lower if they don't work at all, and higher if they do and you just want an improvement.
Going for a bike which is old enough to still have downtube shifters is important if you don't know what you're doing.
I would say the same thing for vintage mountain bikes if you want to keep them stock, thumbies are far superior to STI on old XT groupsets.
>>
This talk of old race bikes being too stiff is slightly ridiculous. In my experience they're also likely to minmax into light weight and be quite pleasantly noodly, even in the late 90s, and i've had late 90s bikes that i've loved the ride of.

It also heavily depends on what size bike you're looking at. There's a line in the sand between 56 and 58 where you're far more likely to get stiffer tubesets for big lads and whether that suits you or not will depend.

I have done a lot of riding on maybe half a dozen high end classic steel bikes and don't really feel qualified to make that many generalizations. I can talk about each one but it still feels quite random. I say just take a chance on something you like for other reasons.

I'd only trust generalizations from some boomer who had ridden hard their entire life and been through dozens and dozens of bikes and even then.

>>1941222
what the actual fuck are you talking about this whole post is chock full of nonsense
>>
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>>1941466
I've had this photo on multiple devices for atleast 10 years. Love the F. Moser colors.
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>>1941565
hello that is my bike lol
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Traded this in to a bike shop when I move out west. Bought back a year later when I moved back.
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>>1941466
damn. put regular 3 cross wheels on that thing and i will marry it
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>>1941783
Just returned from the local Crit race, so much bike porn. Have another Moser.
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>>1941180
80s is when mass produced ones started getting good, I'd look for a frame from late 80s/90s from a small boutique builder like Serotta and put modern components on it

I've done that to a Serotta CDA, Ciocc Mockba, Colnago Master...
they make fun rides but don't believe the shit that they are magical or better than some cheapo generic carbon frame.

IMO Tange is shit. Modern mass production steel are shit.

Columbus and Reynolds tubing is something to look for.

You should be able to fit 25s in most vintage of this era, I remember running 28mms in the Ciocc I had no problem.
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>>1941810
>Ciöcc
IFTFY,YW!
>>
>>1941810
That looks terrible. Brifters look like ass, the stem adapter is obnoxious, so is the black seatpost, rims and modern groupset. All in all terrible taste.
What do you mean that modern steel is bad? What's your experience with it?
>>
>>1941567
lol, your tire looks like it says foreskin.
cool paint
>>
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In my limited experience, the mid-80s to early 90s is a pretty sweet spot for old steel road bikes. This is my PDG 7 that I keep saying I'll build wheels for to replace the Mavic Aksiums currently on it.
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This miyata was 1987 and gave me great joy
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>>1942087

I have a Miyata from the early 1990s and it's bretty gud. The paint job isn't nice so I don't use it much but it's still a solid bike.
>>
>>1942100
Had a Miyata from 79, bought it cheap, sold it for a fat profit. I didn't ride it because I got better bikes and I didn't like the steerer, but than it had those hand sticked leather tubes on and everything perfectly matching, so I wouldn't change it and just thought it'll make somebody else happier.
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i don't know about best, but i have a 1999 bianchi campione that i've had since new. it sat for like 5-7 years without being ridden after i got a new spandex-ride bike. i've recently been daily riding it again, though, because my new commute has a hill way too steep for my single speed and i have to say, i've fallen in love with it again. it was kind of at the tail end of when you could still get a near-race level steel frame before they started gaining in popularity again. it's a little heavy, but i just love the ride. it feels reasonably relaxed when you're just tooling around, but the hard you push it, the racier it feels. i've kept it pretty much stock aside from downgrading to downtube shifters. i've got the original front wheel but it's on another bike at the moment. i don't see too many bikes like this around. they weren't too popular when new and i think most have gone to the great rustpile in the sky by now
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>>1941466
>>1942066
Love both of these. I'd die here on my local roads with those gears on the pink bike but doesn't really matter when it comes to admiring. Nice photo for it too. Being the poorfag I am I actually like the Aksiums, they'd be an upgrade for most bikes I've owned. Solid wheelsets from what I've heard constantly. Totally fits the neo-retro thing you have going on- awesome frame as if it needs to be stated.
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This is from a Fuji.
Anyone know what this decal says? Is it the frame material?
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>>1942188
yes its the frame
Fuji VALite 414 single butted
after some quick googling its apparently carbon manganese steel with some vanadium and aluminium
as for its description the mid 1980s catalogue says "ask your local fuji dealer"
but it seems to be an upgrade from High Tension 1020 steel and a legit attempt at providing an affordable product with some redeeming quality's
kind of reminds me of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mangalloy
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>>1942197
Awesome, thanks, bro!
>>
>>1942066
the wheels look fine, mostly because of the black stem and seat post. but if you got a nice silver quill stem and silver seat post, that thing would look extremely tight with some traditional looking wheels. but aesthetics should always be secondary to ride. well, unless aesthetics is the thing that gets your butt in the saddle more. whatever gets you on the bike. it's a real pretty frame, in any case. i dig it.
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>>1941567
beautiful. my friend found a de bernardi frame on craigslist years ago for a really good price, back when there were still people who didn't know what they had. he was a tall dude, but the bike was just a little too big for him. it was a beaut, though
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>>1941540

I've never seen someone ride a tandy alone
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my darling.

got it for cheap too, 250e before I changed the handlebar and shifters to the ones in the picture, came to me with a normal straight bar and thumb shifters. need to get new rims front and back, but have been keeping it off since the shops near to me want like 300 euros per rim just to lace them and spooped about installing them myself. might give it a shot over the winter though.
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>>1943056
Spiderman?
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>>1943057
Yes, the previous owner put it to hide a big scratch. I have since removed the sticker and changed the saddle. It's currently disassembled awaiting a new sealed bb and clean parts.
>>
>>1943068
Looks sleek.
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>>1942207
The black stem and seatpost are original to the bike. I just want to replace the Aksiums because they aren’t very good wheels. They work fine enough, but I don’t like the proprietary spokes or the fact the rear hub supposedly uses a bushing on one side instead of an actual bearing. The rims are also pretty narrow. I have a number of wheels and tires I can audition to get an idea of what I actually want when I get through my backlog of other bike stuff to get done
>>
ive had a lot of steel road bikes thru the years always looking for one as good as my 84' schwinn peloton. never really found one, tried to buy another last year but now they are "collector classics" and priced too high and good luck even finding one in your size. decided to keep vibrating down the road on my old but still solid ti seven axiom sl
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>>1941252
sounds like you're just a bitch
>>
do you want
650b wheel?
28mm max tires?
misterious bb?
cotter pin crankset?
rear hub distance that gives you really no option (120mm anyone?)?
seatposts with diameters impossibile to be found?

if yes, then go for anything prior to the 90s.
>>
>>1947995

This is up there. Fly down to Atlanta and cop it
>>
80s my friend... 80s it is. The tubing, the lugs, the paintwork, the attention to detail, the fully featured road bikes, the wild geometries. It is the 80s.
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>>1941205
>>
What are some /n/-approved mudguards for rigid vintage MTB? I'm sick of getting rocks in my face.
>>
>>1948589
Beach cruiser fenders are probably your best bet
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>>1941180
80s/90s Miyata, SSTB tubing, accept no substitutes
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>>1948589
oh man i just went on a mini-odyssey doing this. i spent so much time on the SKS website, downloading owner's manuals and stuff. there's not a whole lot in 26" anymore, and the mtb specific ones i saw there won't work with rim brakes. and if you have a suspension fork, as i do, there were one or two that would work on the rear wheel but not on the front and they don't sell them individually. i wanted a more traditional fender but i couldn't find anything that would quite work, so i finally settled on a set of SKS Beavertails. not really a full fender but i'm hoping it'll work okay. we'll see i guess. i can update when they arrive if you want.
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>>1948589
Velo orange make fancy stainless ones if you don't mind dropping money on them, depends if polished metal goes with your bike or not I suppose
>>
Just ordered a 130mm rear wheel, time to see if cold setting is as easy as the bike guy makes it look
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>>1948737
Here it is btw, waiting on a RD as well but after that its pretty much done. What should I do to make it look better?
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this one is mine.
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>>1948808
Really sweet bike anon! The only thing I would do is getting proper clamps for the brake cable on the top tube instead of tape.

>>1948835
Love the paint!
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>>1948737
That's gorgeous

you don't necessarily have or even want to cold set the frame. See how hard it is to just jam it in there first. Also see if you can't re-space your rear axle by removing some spacers.

>upgrades
Seatpost. Will make a tangible difference in ride quality, weight, and adjustability. Is it some meme size?

I love that you've stuck with the centerpulls. Those brakes look beautiful. The pad upgrade is fantastic. Check how much the front hanger flexes. Often those flex pretty badly and that is an area where you can improve the system.

I think you probably want a more relaxed bar/stem. If you have 25.4 drop bars you can just use a mtb stem, even one with a canti brake roller. Pic rel is a nitto noodle & nitto specialized 26mm dirt drop stem. You can get a technomic off the shelf for 26 bars.
You also do lose power with old non-aero levers, but well, they look cool.

Your bar tape is wrapped too loosely.

I would look for a smaller inner ring for that crankset. It's clearly physically possible. The cutouts are incredible. Is that a home drillium job? Either that, or a nice old road triple like a TA one if you can find it.

Top tube cable clips as mentioned. Lots of nice oldschool ones floating around.

Also it's not a lightweight race bike. You should run a rack or basket or something. You can actually get MAFAC miniracks for centerpull brakes. I have one. They're extremely dainty but work well for handlebar bags. Easiest is just run a rear rack with p-clips for the upper stays. If you want to splash cash look at those Tubus Fly etc the really svelte ones. When you get p-clips try get the ones with nylon coating, not rubber, they're more rigid.
>>
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Here's the only truly vintage bike in my collection, I used to have a bunch but downsized considerably a few years ago.

>>1948808
Needs a silver rear derailer, matching tires, brake cable clamps as other anon said, and I would replace your derailer housing stop - you don't need that barrel adjuster anyways and it looks out of place. Also, your bar tape is terribly uneven and loose - redo it, but this time, remove the brake levers and wrap tightly around the clamp that stays on the bars, then bolt the lever back on (it will compress the tape when you tighten the bolt).
>>
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>>1948866
And here's my retro-mod bike. The shifters are 11sp downtube shifters.
>>
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>>1948866
>replace your derailer housing stop
I second this
just a basic oldschool one would look much better

that bike of yours is gorgeous. I love to see a vintage bike with $$ tires.

although fuck vintage brake pads, why
>>
>>1948867
those are bar end shifters aren't they? How are the ergonomics?

Honestly i like Giant but having ridden a few 'good' classic Giants I think that frame is pretty fucking lucky and does not really deserve what it's wearing. The fastback seat cluster is cool though.

Also the threadless stem spoils neo retro builds for me.
>>
>>1948869
Yeah, I meant to type bar end shifters. As for ergonomics, I think they'd be tolerable, but not great, if you used the same style as friction shifters since they're so stubby. But when indexed they're perfectly fine since there's no longer any real need to be so accurate with your positioning.
>>
>>1948737
>>1948808
Odds are your can just jab the 130mm wheel in there. Look at a metric ruler and tell me if you can notice 2.5mm, no you can't it's a cunts hair
>>
>>1948877
usually yeah.
his bike is old enough that it might be 120.
also sometimes it's a bit of a fight and then it's better to spread it so you're not struggling so much changing a flat.

Also spreading it 'properly' is a pretty big job, if you took a frame to Waterford to spread (RIP) they would re-braze a slightly longer seat stay bridge.
>>
>>1948842
>>1948865
>>1948866
>>1948868
>>1948877
>>1948879
Thanks for all your comments, absorbing the knowledge and will redo the wrapping. Its 127mm so ill try without cold setting first. Silver RD is on the way
>>
>>1948879
Came here to post this
>>1948887
And good to hear it's 127 OLD. If it were my bike I'd just shove the 130 rear hub in there, I've done that for bikes with 8 and 9 speed indexed shifting and they were completely fine, with friction shifting there's even less concern for anything potentially not "lining up" (but to be honest, the bellyaching I've read on the internet about the dangers of not cold setting your stays and realigning your rear dropouts when going from 126 to 130 is, in my opinion, extremely autistic)
>>
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this one's doin me head in
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>>1951363
>>
>>1951363
eh so it's an internal hub gear in the rear with some kind of old automatic electronic shifting. Electronic shifting came in with mavic in the 80s remember. It's not a new thing.

The single piece ashitabula style crank signals it as a relatively crappy meme bike.

It's a casual shitter, albeit with some curiousity to it, and in quite good cosmetic condition. I wouldn't call it classic or vintage. It's just old.

It's the kind of bike that's perfectly fine if it runs, but if i saw it with issues i'd steal the stem/bar and scrap it. It's practically worthless and not very good.

and the front drum brake makes me want to throw up, just why
>>
>>1951363
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ig8JsXRiqqw
>>
>>1951369
it got me to read a park tool article. the shift points are adjustable with a flathead screwdriver.
>>
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>>1941222
the dust was settled in the 60s

pic rel rides so sweet and is such good quality, made by NSU in Germany the factory still exist and is now a Audi plant.
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>>1941180
Lol80s road bikes, lol90s mountain bikes. Remember that like CRT monitors, there is a HUGE range in part/build quality, and the market's been poisoned by scalpers and retards that know nothing and pay any price because they think they have to. Do your research and be wary of anyone advertising their sale with too many "VINTAGE!!!!!!!!!11" buzzwords, don't be afraid to lightly haggle, and you'll find something genuinely high quality for 100-300 bucks
>>
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I miss it so much bros
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>>1951623
Looks like shit
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>>1952358
What's with the low saddle and crazy stem length?
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>>1952410
it's mainly the grandad bars
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>>1952426
It's the pump between the rear fender and seattube, the shitty brakes, the steel seatpost, the saddle, the steel cotter pin cranks, the steel fenders, etc. It's ancient trash.
>>
>>1952426
>>1952428
It ain't a racer, but a reliable city cruiser that goes on an on
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>>1952462
>reliable
>cotter pin cranks
Choose one
It also sucks in every other way
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>>1952479
>>cotter pin cranks hurr durr

i feared removing them but with a hit of a hammer they went out alright. after 60+years. put them back in greased should go out in another 60.

>>1952428
front brake is shit indeed, but the rear still works good.
>>
>>1952524
nta
>people only need to service their bottom bracket every 60 years
not if you actually ride your fucking bike you faggot
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>>1952538
maybe they did thing of that back in the day? and put a oil plug here, same for the rear freewheel/brake and front axle. just put some oil in it once in a while.

also its super easy to service, pop out cotters unscrew take all out and wash the balls and cups, grease and put back in.
>>
>>1948075
He's right you know
>>
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>>1941180
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>>1955218
That’s carbon though.
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>>1955218
what bar?
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>>1955243
LOL didn't notice, I just liked the handlebars
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>>1955243
hardest metal known to man
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>>1955218
i have such a boner for those old lugged carbon frames. i just think they're so cool, though i'm not sure if they are particularly safe at this point or even ride well
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>>1941180
82 specialized sequoia. Other than downtube shifters this thing is a dream. It supported my 200+ pound body and a shit ton of gear for thousands of miles last year, and never complained. On and offroad it was a beast. Maintenance has been easy, and size fit really well for a very tall guy. Getting wheels has been hard, because the axle is different, but man, OP, I can't recommend an old bike enough. Nicer than anything new I've ever ridden.
>>
>>1956338
more pics?

and what's the widest tire she'll accept?
>>
>>1942135

needs yellow tape to match the seat highlights
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>>1956953
nah, he needs a saddle with pink highlights, or just plain black
>>
>>1941252
I've only had aluminum frames, but I want to try steel. Can you really feel the flex and rigidity on diff frame materials?
>>
>>1957079
it can depend heavily on the individual frame. the only alu bike I've ever ridden is a 1990 trek and the tubes seem really overbuilt. it doesn't feel any different than my steel bikes but that also could be me just not being good at differentiating. and of course modern alu stuff is going to be more refined.
but still, different frames are going to be built differently and your experience is going to be subjective to some degree, although I'm not trying to deny there's an objective difference, either.
not sure that helps but that's the only input I can give
>>
>>1957079
I can tell the difference, but I am over 200lbs and can ride multiple different bikes to learn mixed in with reading has helped me understand it a little more.
Something like a ridgid steel mtb will be stiff most of the time. If you get a bike frame with thinner and stronger tubing it CAN be flexier depending on the design, frame size, and other stuff.
The issue is it's a complex subject and I have found the only way to tell is to ride a bike, also if you are in the 150lb range they might all be stiff unless you are really strong.

If I were you, and had a normal budget look for an older steel frame that is quality. Try it, and if you have another bike ride that over the same road.
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Rode one of my dads bikes today. Currently I am too fat/inflexible to be comfy on this. Might swap out the 130mm stem to a 110 or 100mm stem and maybe go up if the minimum stem insertion length is there, but really just a shorter stem will help a ton. 55st and 57tt, really better setup for my dad, but a couple changes and I will fit better.
>>
>>1957079
It doesn't flex in the sense that you feel it bend during the ride or something. But I do have chronic back problems due to an old injury and a day on a steel frame causes me way less stress than a day on alu. like all the hits and kicks you take are a little less sharp and a wee bit damped. that accumulates.
>>
>>1957912
respect to your dad if he can ride that crazy stem. it's beautiful, too, what's the make on that?
>>
What exactly counts as "oversized" steel tubing? Also and separately, is there some kind of centralized database for bike models? Like motorcyclespecs.co.za or something? (mostly just interested in frame construction and country of origin.). Google just gives me various "for sale" listings.
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>>1958145
I find a model for sale, search it, find multiple posts on bikeforums.net and learn.
I also find catalogs for brands or websites like the centurion one.
https://www.vintage-centurion.com/models/competition/prestige.shtml
Sheldon brown has some info on different vintage bikes.
Not sure about oversized tubing definition for steel since the tube size is based on era, and application. Like how mtb tubing is all "oversized" compared to road tubing, and how aluminum is larger too.
I think larger tubing became more popular in the 90's and 2000's to compete with aluminum and carbon.
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How much do you think I should ask for this bike? It's a '91 and a 46 cm frame.
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>>1958263
Deore cranks and disks (text worn off)
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>>1958264
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>>1958266
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>>1958267
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>>1958268
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>>1958269
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>>1958270
>>
Next to no rust on the frame.
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>>1958145
This image should help. 1" vs. 1-1/8" just denotes the diameter of the steerer tube.
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>>1958263
in my market you should be able to get more than $200 easy. not sure if that's applicable to other markets. maybe ask $300 and haggle down or relist lower until if it doesn't sell.

during covid I got $200 for a gaspipe shitter that I got into like-new condition . I put new tires, pads, bartape and washed, waxed the frame and precision tuned the brakes and derailleurs, but I had to relist it for months until the right buyer came along. a noob girl. I think the market has cooled off since then. your bike is nice but I don't see getting more than 3 for it.
>>1958264
>Deore cranks and disks
those are chainrings. the only "discs" on a bike refers to brakes and not only do you not have them, they hadn't even been invented then.
>>
>>1958319
>those are chainrings. the only "discs" on a bike refers to brakes and not only do you not have them, they hadn't even been invented then.
Thanks for the help
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>>1941449
Holy shit that's a beauty.
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>>1941180
90s mtb

Bulletproof and reliable, cheap and beloved.
>>
>>1959498
Lel whoops

My camera on this phone is amazing but I had to compression
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>>1959501
Another with other phone cam
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>>1959503
this setup is completely retarded but I just can't bring myself to dis someone who obviously enjoys his bike so much
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>>1948075
>>1952555
One of my favorite bikes is from 1989 and it has
700c wheels
38mm max tires
bb-un55 (from 2016)
fc-mt60 Deore cranks
135mm rear spacing
26.8 Nitto seatpost (not original, wanted the 2-bolt style)

But yeah
Sorry you had a bad experience bud
>>
>>1961624
my bike from 87 doesn't have anything he's complaining about. the seatpost diameter might be weird but I found a cheap new one no problem a few years ago
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>>1941180
They are unironically great
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Bought this 10 years ago for around 50 dollars, it was my only mode of transport for years and I used it rain or shine year round. I have a lot of bikes now, but I still like to attack hills with this.
>>
lugged > tig'ed
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>>1959503
disgusting rusting junkie bike
I'm gonna puke
>>
>>1959503
seriously fuck, are you homeless or something? even so, fix your fucking bike it's a disgrace
you don't need much money to simply care
>>
>>1959503
based frankenbike bro, keep on making the normies seethe
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>>1943056
Well, now that I'm cleaning it up I've found more rare vintage parts. It has TranzX CENTERON 1996 jockey wheels which apparently are made out of titanium.
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>>1962389
Lol ESL poojeet seething
>>
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I don't see a retro mtb thread, so I'll post project pics here.
The other day I bought an old atb. Good price, my size, not beat to death, probably from 83-84. Just a frame/fork/headeset, 26" wheels, 22" frame.

The headset lower was in rough shape. Old Tange Levin. Knocking out the upper race was the most trouble I've ever had with a headset--for a moment I considered buying 'the actual tool', but the solution was a heavier hammer.

One of the front canti posts caught a nasty ding while there were no brakes installed, so I cleaned it up with a file. Test fit w/ a throwaway pair of cantis, and they went on smooth, no gouging the bushing, no unusal play on the post.

Then I plugged all the holes w/ silicone plugs (vinyl tape for the little weld gas holes), and poured in some evaporust. The fork is sitting next to the toilet, the frame in the stand. The fork doesn't look bad, but the bb shell... isn't great.
>>
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>>1962118
>suicide levers
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>>1952524
>i feared removing them but with a hit of a hammer they went out alright. after 60+years.
You're lucky mate, I've had two cotters cosplay as Excalibur last year, and one of them was so stubborn I had to drill through the whole crank to get it out. Woved to replace every cottercrank I had with at least square taper BBs.
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>>1959535
big-hearted, big-brained take. strive to be this person, everybody. take heed.
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>>1962701
strive to be what? disgusting bum?
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>>1948867
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>>1958051
Late to get back to you, but it's from a custom builder in santa cruz.
Some history here
https://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f22/lighthouse-cycles-19636.html
My dad had a custom bike made back in the late 80's/90's and so he would sometimes look for other versions used around CA.
Both of these are what I would call "oversquare" with a short seat tube+long top tube. The red one is a 53cm seat ctc and 57cm top ctc.

He has some neck issues so I put on a taller and shorter stem recently so both of us can easily ride it. Old stem is a 130mm 26.4 cinelli. Currently has a nitto technomic 100mm.
>>
>>1963007
what the fuck is this???
>>
>>1961624
Sounds like you got a cyclocross bike, which isn't exactly the same as what he's talking about (he's talking about roadies)
>>
>>1959498
LOL I saved the motorcycle fairing anime bike too
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>>1948075
>650b wheel
stop being 5ft tall. If you mean 27" wheels then sure. Many brakes can fit 700c with a simple adjustment anyways, then you get larger clearance since 27"s are 8mm bigger.
>28mm max tires
refer to above, touring bikes, older 70's bikes(had more clearance generally).
If you don't want a 80's crit/triathlon/ road bike don't buy one.
>misterious bb
most are related to manufacturer, worse the older you get, but that's easy to figure out.
>cotter pin
same as above except age related
>120mm rear
you are thinking pre 80's, and many cold set to 126mm.
I am used to riding single speed, so any gears=enough.
>impossible seatposts
china makes all the common sizes.
26, 26.4, 26.6, 26.8, 27.0, etc.

I can make a list of annoying shit with each bike era. Modern mtb's and road bikes are no exception.
>>
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How much would ya'll pay for a minty Schwinn Premis 1988? Some dude around me is selling his resto, and I kinda am craving an old roadie. Seems to be a nice mid-tier bike? Not sure why it warranted a full resto, would it be a bad idea to ride it hard?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/393017369132
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>>1965152
Couple hundred. Maybe 300 if the resto is really nice+paintjob and you REALLY like it.
If you haven't seen this already.
https://bikecatalogs.org/SCHWINN/1988/LightWeight/FULL/1988_16.jpg
If you are not that interested around 150 or so would be my go to.
>>
>>1965152
That bike hasn't been restored, it's just been superficially cleaned. There are no nice parts hiding on it whatsoever and it's not setup well to ride now. It's a bad buy.
It's not 'rare'. It's an entry level nice bike. The frame is cool.

The value and utility of the Dia Compe AX stuff with gross dirty white hoods, and the awful white Suntour Cyclone, is very minimal.

Bikes like that are fantastic to transplant slightly newer road parts onto. So you buy it for the frame. I would want to pay 1/10 the price.
>>
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what about something like this?
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>>1965162
what about it?
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>>1965134
thought it might be cinelli, the way they hide the bolt and clamp is really nice looking. but thank god for the technomic. biggest stack of any quill stem and available in any reach you want. just put one on my new build.
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>>1965149
super sweet. I love the decals and logo on this era Miyatas. what model/year? 91? it's a mtb/hybrid with a drop bar conversion? probably STB tubes? very choice.
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>>1965152
this nigga wants $650 plus shipping!? he is smoking. a. rock.
I love the frame, Columbus tubing, great paint and graphics and condition.
that's it.
the components were meh even when new.
I've gotten a Miyata triple butted steel bike which is near Columbus quality, and a Miyata STB bike in cherry condition which is better than plain triple butted, and I paid less than $200 each.
this is a terrible deal.
like anon said, put modern/better components on it and it's a great bike. ride as-is, it's kinda neat. but jesus, don't pay that much for it.
>>
>>1965149
>Sounds like you got a cyclocross bike
I did not. It's a 1989 Miyata 1000LT, an old touring bike.
Came with all of the original parts, in good condition. No dents, chips, scrapes, nothing. Still had the original radial tires, etc.
Some guy bought it, with 'aspirations' then hung it in his garage. His wife donated it to a local charity, and I paid what they asked for it, $600, partly because it's rare to find one in my size (63cm).
And there is no indication that the other poster was "talking about roadies".

>>1965162
Those old Peugeots, with the 'internal brazing' (can't remember their term for it) are beautiful. They're not lugged, but the joins are so clean.
>>
>>1965162
>solid axle bolt-on wheels
it's a bso. worse, it's a bso with weird french sizes.
>>
>>1965158
>>1965341
Sorry the ebay link is a random one I found online for reference, don't have any pictures of real one. I thought I said it but I didn't. I'm a retard.

The nigga I know is asking $280 for a truly minty version.

Picrel is basically as clean as the one I could buy
>>
>>1965333
Not mine, but it's an alumicross. Dunno the year pulled it off google, once i saw one parked at my gym and gawked at it for about 10 minutes. I wonder if the owner knew what they had. The bars on these things are so cool. True dirt drops.

>>1965349
Cool, old tourers are pretty much peak bike. And I only got the implication of "road bikes" a) from the contents of the thread and b) tourers are a lot less common than roadies when searching for "classic steel"
>>
>>1965495
Buy it you dumb faggot. I have this one and the purple/blue one. Both are mint and ride nice. Plus the 80s paint just looks nice when it’s just hanging out in my bedroom with me. I think you’ll really like it. $280 isn’t bad.
>>
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>>1965137
short chainstay
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>>1966452
Bici Corta from RiGi, rare beast. Does it ride as agile as it looks?
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>>1966452
Looks really harsh riding.
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>>1966472
Yes, but makes a hell of a city bike I'd assume
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>>1966452
T W I T C H Y


Christ look at that head tube angle
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>>1963007
>>1966452
big brain af, the geo looks so tight I bet that bike flicks so fast, maybe even snappier than most track bikes.
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>>1966452
This frame should be excellent for climbing
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>>1941180
Probably 70s, 80s, and 90s but idk
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>>1941205
this
It's so simple.
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Is this part, Dia-Compe 1281-F available anywhere in the US?
It's a fork crown-mounted canti hanger. I don't want to pay $60 to have one shipped from merrye olde England.

Yes, I know Origin8 makes a similar thing, but it is ugly.
Yes, I know Tektro makes a similar thing, but I can only find UK sellers--and if I'm paying $$ I'll just get what I want instead of some substitute.

Not gonna ask in /bqg/ because obviously no one there would know.
>>
>>1967858
For Dia Compe stuff if Merry Sales doesn’t have it I don’t think any large seller in the US will have it. You might get chance upon one on eBay but I’d suspect those will also be from UK sellers. If you just really fucking hate British people and can’t find it on Merry’s website, you could try emailing them. Maybe they have some tucked away on their warehouse shelf not listed online. Good luck bro
>>
>>1967858
Try eBay might be some old school part you're looking for. Origin 8 one is indeed heinous.
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Sheeeeit, I always forget to take & post pics.

Yeah, I evaporusted the frame & fork.
What I use is a squirter bottle from the local restaurant store w/ the WD40 red straw on it & vinyl tape. That particular straw has oddball dimensions, but it's perfect for this.
Put the juice in the squirter, and blast it into the weld gas exhaust holes. They'd be a pain to fill otherwise.

I wouldn't say this frame was "bad" in terms of rust, but it's maybe the worst of my bikes. Most was in the bb shell. Not so worrying since it's singularly the thickest bit of steel & the threads are in good shape.

That's the top pic. Middle is the red straw setup.
Bottom is the evaporust after vs before. This stuff turns black as it undergoes the reaction. Residual oils are what cause the 'clinging' effect on the RH.

After I 'drained' the frame & fork and let it dry, the inside got a blast of rust inhibitor.
Different people like different things. We use CRC SP-350 at work, and it works well enough. I borrowed a can... add $0 to the build total.

Next pics will be parts from... CL, Somafab, a bmx shop, Rene Herse, Bluelug.
>>
>>1968284
Does that actually take care of all the rust or just the easy outer stuff? I seem to recall using some sort of rust removal on a knife once and it didn't really get the deep pitted stuff at all.
>>
>>1970316
pls respond
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>>1970316
>>1972306
i think even if there was some rust left it woudnt matter since he used a oil/grease based rust inhibitor, which penetrates the rust and stops it from proceding.

if he would paint over it it would be important to remove every tiniest bit of rust.
>>
>>1972306
I have used eastwood rust encapsulator paint on a bike. Not a ton of use but here in a low rust area it's as solid as it went on 2-3 years ago.
More of an exterior thing, but.

I have used evaporust on car parts. I found steel can take it, but aluminum the evaporust ate through, but I left the parts in there for too long. Like one night for the aluminum.
>>
The bicycle frame peaked with the Nashbar aluminum cyclocross frame 132.5mm rear spacing version. Fits 700x42.

Steel is simply too heavy. Fat tires and steel fork on aluminum is the way. V brakes, nothing better
>>
dura-ace, clip pedals Specialized Transition. 350$. But it's 56cm and I'm 5'9 and three quarters. Should I get it?
>>
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i just bought one of these queer-mobiles for $65
>>
how hard is it to sweat out old dropouts and braze in new ones?
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>>1974053
>specialized tranny
sigh
>>1974590
Great deal
>>
>>1974638
yeah, I'm happy. she had it listed $250 lol
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>>1974744
Maybe I should lowball more.
I tend to only go for prices that are good enough and finding hidden gems.
Looks like a 53/54.
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>>1974745
I'm pretty shameless about it, but this area is weird and bikes don't move easy here. I got an old 80s Haro Impulse for $35, and a 90s GT Tequesta for $50 in the last 6 months. Right now there's an 80s aluminum Trek 1200 listed for $80 that I'm sure I could get for under <$40, but I need to stop buying and start restoring.
>>
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>>1974744
This is sweet. These are great frames - I had one for several years and it ranks highly in my memories of best bikes I've owned.
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>>1974787
nice job on that one
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>>1974053
I'm not really into spesh normally but I'd be into a bike that tells everyone to take hormones and file for a name change
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>>1974744
ooo now you have to decide if you upgrade practically everything or not as you have a frame with high spec enough tubing and impractical enough parts to justify it while on the other hand is all still quite good kit for certain uses.

I would get it going as cheaply as possible first and see if you like it enough, but wider gearing, better brakes, faster rolling bits, and new touchy things would all be very nice to have.

At the minimium I would look for a 39t chainring to gear down slightly. You can buy (good) new hoods for those levers on aliexpress.

Got the seatpost free yet?
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>>1974053
>vintage aluminium fork
absolutely not.
The colourway/graphics also are disgusting.

I would buy it to part out and at that price it's not really worth it.
>>
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1985 Panasonic touring deluxe
>>
I have a 1985 Schwinn voyageur I'm ready to give up on, has felt like floppy shit to me, although i thought maybe I should try it with some new wheels before I sell it
the rear canti bosses are fucked and I'd have to grind and braze some new ones on? I have a caliper in the fender hole rn. Idk it's tange champion supposedly but it ghost shifts and I hate the ride feel
I had a 1987 schwinn sierra (high sierra? Idk the one with roller cams) that i really liked the ride quality of, but I crashed it. It was probably fine actually but it felt cursed. But yeah didn't feel like cold stretching either of them to 135 from 120 and the voyageur is 27" too even, converting to 700 just sounds like a nightmare. I'm about to give up and just get a state 4130 all road. Flat mount, thru axles, all the modern memes. 650b. It says it's double butted, how bad can it be?
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>>1977228
maybe earlier ? pretty sure it would have canti's on it if an 85.
>>
Anyone help me identfy this bike? Its on FB marketplace and i kinda like it but don't really want 70's steel. Prefer 80s. Victoria modell 100 I think but can't find more info past 1960s. Located Central EU.
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>>1977303
That's a medium-smol frame. No idea on the bike besides that stem shifters=cheaper here in the states.
Also the claw derailleur mount says the same thing.
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>>1977244
could just be one of those sport tourers, but then again it does have a triple so idk
i know trek made not low end bikes with triples but were not necessarily marketed as touring bikes in the late 80s/early 90s, could just be that niche.
>>
>>1977206
yea boiii

Cables are in ok shape, so I'm going to service everything then see how it rides on 28s.. after that I'll probably fixie it out with parts I already have so I don't have to sink any cash into it until I figure out what I want to do with it.
>>
>>1977437
>fixie it out
just leave it stock instead
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>>1977439
I might, but probably not. I'll ride it around stock for a while just to see how it performs as is, but I have another set of 700s with a track hub on it and a half-link chain, so it'll probably end up fixed gear for a few months while I figure out what I want to do and acquire parts.
>>
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>>1941180
I love my sort of franken 89 Miyata 312. Here's an pic from last year.
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>>1977244
>>1977424

No cantis! https://www.panasonicbikemuseum.info/product/1985-panasonic-bicycles-catalog/
>>
Any guesses on the year?
>>
1983 trek 720 that was bought then put in storage, never ridden supposedly.
800 bugs but it's been listed for 30 weeks, maybe i should lowball him and nag him occasionally while it still hasn't sold.
i mean i have the money, but i could never justify it nor can i really afford it.
>tiny bike
i'm 5'1, yes.
>>
>>1977509
>>1977509
83-84
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>>1977518
no I'm way off, that's like a 76
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>>1977519
that old with shifter braze ons and a square taper bb? high flange hubs always make me think late 70s, though.
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>>1977521
>1976 high-tensile steel frame,10-speed Front Derailleur: Suntour SL Rear Derailleur: Suntour V-GT Luxe Shifters: Suntour Barcons Freewheel: Suntour Pro-Compe Cranks: SR Apex Brakes: Dia-Compe Centerpull Rims: Araya Hubs: Suntour Sunshine Bars: Sakae Road Champion Randonneur Seat: Elina Super Pro

>1980s (Early) 12-speed with a Tange Infinity tubeset and a mix of Suntour and Sugino components.

Yes, I think you're right.
>>
>>1977524
i think the wheels are not stock, those totally look like campy hubs which would put it around late 70s early 80s. there is really not a lot of info on models between 76-84. but i think im gathering that le mans, not rs, had either bacons or stem shifters after 81 or so? but the graphics don't match up between those years. i am really not too sure....
>>
>>1977530
look what i found for u baby

https://www.vintage-centurion.com/years/sn-deciphering.shtml
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>>1977532
too bad im not the guy going to look at this in person LOL
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>>1977519
That would have been an absurdly expensive machine in 1976 with that spec. Well worth getting if true.
>>
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Yeah I drink a lot and forget that I ever post pics online.
I also got a screen printing setup, and have been obsessed. I now have this 1 of 1 Elizabeth Fraser t-shirt that I've been dreaming about for a few decades.

>>1970316
>Does that actually take care of all the rust
Yeah, completely gone. Understand that the material (the rust) will dissolve & dissappear. If it's deep pitting, etc, that will be completely 'on display'. That's why I mentioned the thickness of bb shells--most bike tubing is really quite thin. You might find you have some pinhole that goes all the way through, etc.
Someone at work told me about evaporusting a cast iron part, and it left this black sludge on the surface. He had to scrub it off & do it again. What kind of steel was your knife?

>>1977228
Those VO candy cane seatposts. Can't stand how they look. Or that 'butthole sticker'. But they come in the odd sizes.
The atb I bought was specced for 26.6. I also have an old Panasonic that's similar, can't remember the year, early 80s.
But for this burgundy bike I bought a nice 26.8 Nitto S83 on Craigslist for 30 bux, box & everything. It was just too short for the guy's Rivendell (lol), with a supremely nasty gouge from the test fit.
Then I spent some $$ on a big fucking tap handle (has to take 1/2" square) and an adjustable reamer, to enlarge the seat tube ID by 0.2mm. I swear I'll post some pics, they're just on my camera camera.

>>1977493
Nice. I fucking love Miyatas.
I was nerding out recently with a guy at the coop, and accidentally revealed that I have two of the same year, same model/spec. One set up as fixed gear, one as a road bike.
I can't believe I'm living this life.

Don't think I've posted this pic, a set of ders for the burgundy bike. FD came w/ box, very good, RD is good, but has some scratches near the one roll pin.
Had to make a custom tool to take the damn thing apart. Weighs 173g? Very unlike the olde Shimano Deore/II I usually go with.
>>
>>1977500
>https://www.panasonicbikemuseum.info/product/1985-panasonic-bicycles-catalog/

both the tourers have canti's in that catalog though. the sport 12 lx is the closest maybe, sidepulls on that, but it doesn't have a sugino crank.
>>
>>1941180
Objectively, the 1980s/early 90s.
Almost no bikes of this era aren't brand-name chromoly (Tange, Reynolds, AVR, Columbus, Vitus) and most of them are still made in USA, England, Italy, Germany, Japan, though some are made in Taiwan.
Even the lowest end you're looking at HLE, Mangalloy or something comparable to Reynolds 501 or basic 4130 that's 'internally brazed' or whatever. This as commonly found on Fujis, Miyatas, and Peugeots. That said I still find all of those frames heavy and even slightly unpleasant to ride.
If on a tight budget, Tange Infinity is genuinely as good as Tange 2. Same tube thickness, double-butted, and CHEAP. Tange really did crack the code, and doesn't command the same price as Reynolds/Columbus. AVR was also quite pleasant, as were the Mississippi Schwinns (Columbus 'Tenax' tubing, basically Cromor, or SL if you got a Premis or better, but Schwinn as a brand is worth little now, so often you can snag these great frames for cheap, often with Suntour componentry). Tange Infinity is EVERYWHERE by the mid-late 80s.

Subjectively, and in my opinion, the basic, 1970s bikes with friction shifting has a far more relaxed geometry, and they're great for a nice, sporty ride. A literally bygone era of bike design- an old Schwinn World Sport or something can be genuinely great to ride. It's not full Chromoly, but it soaks up bumps and rides so smoothly.
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>>1977511
$800
this asshole is smoking a rock.
it's not really worth more than $200 unless you really want it .
problem is they think it's worth so much that offering a fair price will be taken as an insult.. there's no winning move here but yeah go ahead and try to apologeticly offer a fair price I guess
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>>1977560
>it's not really worth more than $200
yeah, but try telling that to someone who looks at ebay and thinks this is the approximate value. I totally get that it's virtually unused, but yeh. New tires and tape don't really add much value either. small bikes are a hard sell as well.
i think i'll have better chances if he lowers the price again, i'm in no rush.
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>>1977547
Thanks, I absolutely love it. I was looking for something a little more utilitarian originally, the 90s MTB meme I guess, but the moment I took it for a test ride I fell in love with it. Guy I bought I from had grabbed it from a basement and cleaned it up, replaced some missing parts etc.
>>
are the State 4130 SS frames worth the 250 bucks? I have been wanting to build a budget fixed gear for a while, but it's been impossible to find a frame in my size. I could throw something together for under 400, just dunno if the frames are just super heavy crap or not.
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>>1977816
>45c tire clearance max
dang. That would be why I would buy one. Thats probably more clearance then my old cyclocross bike has.
My dad got a scattante frame for sub 100 when performance bike was clearing them out. heavy, but strong which he needs at over 200lbs standing up climbs.
You could always look at older bikes with the long semi-horizontal dropouts too. I run an old bike single speed like that.
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Steel is real.
As others have said you cannot go wrong with a well built 80s - 90s mtb with good tubing, especially if you can find one with low mileage.

The earlier the bike the closer the geometry is to what we now call a hybrid, a bike suited to both on and off road riding.

All my bikes are from between the early 80s amnd early 90s, all steel accept one 1986 Klein, which I bought because it was so cheap, was in barely ridden condition and had a roller cam brake set up, more of a novelty than a daily rider, but fun to take out once in a while.

I have a preference for hand built rigid British steel frames with fillet brazing, Chas Roberts, Overbury's, Dave Yates, Dave Hinde - but I also like early Amercian ATBs, Fat Chance, Breezer, Ritchey and I'm still searching for the holy grail - an early Steve Potts or an early Brodie (Canadian).

I love their versatility, a couple of minor changes to set up and their ride characteristics can be radically altered, even just switching out the tyres to slicks and popping on a shorter stem turns a race bred trail bike into a fun street rider, but old ATBs in particular, due to their closeness to road geometry are great for touring, bikepacking, commuting, shopping etc with barely any major part changes required.

Ultimately though it's all about the feeling you get from a well made steel frame, especially one built from the best steel for the job by someone who really understood how to exploit the materials qualities.

Picrel cost me £100 and is still waiting a complete restoration.
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Lovely old Saracen ATB with Reynolds 531, great example of a British built 'do anything, go anywhere' steel framed bike from the 1980s. Not from the top tier, a consumer model albeit from a then small company, but the quality is obvious. Compare and contrast to a similar mid range consumer hybrid today.
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>>1977560
>not having 16 sockpuppet facebook accounts to shoot absurdly low offers for the week and telling the lister he's out of his mind listing it so high then swooping in on your main account with a reasonable offer
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>>1941449
Beautiful but the brake wires look like absolute torture
>>
for me, it's 1980s motobecane. i love my 1987 bianchi giro, but my motobecane champion is my favorite bike and my motobecane jubile sport is sovl

this youtube channel taught me the most about restoring old bikes the correct way, small bike shop in the UK with a sound philosophy that includes retaining as much originality as possible

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGueCpEI14c
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>>1977854
very nice build.
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>>1974590
I also have a Biopace. It's supposed to be better for your knees. It feels a bit different. Shimano was right to discontinue it.
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>>1981517
I've never seen anyone say anything nice about them.
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>>1981517
My parents who rode in that era hated them. Crazy thing is even though I have 40+chainrings stashed they must have chucked the biopace ones.
I suspect it's fine once you get used to it, but just like modern oval rings you need to ease into it over time.
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>>1981528
Chances are they had the more eccentric biopaces. Mine is fairly round like the pink bike's.
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I was trying to install a Shimano 600 bb into a frame, and it didn't fit right. Insufficient threads on the adj cup side, couldn't put the lockring on.
When I first got this frame & fork I measured the bb shell real quick with a pocket rule. It was less than 73, so it must be 68. Surely there is nothing wrong with this assumption.

Shout out to Sutherland's. It's full of useful info for people who are into (or dealing with?) old parts. There's some info on Sheldon's page, but it wasn't enough for me to figure out a fix.
Turns out 70mm shells wwith English/BSA threading exist, and they take a 5xx spindle, which I previously thought was reserved for "Italian Stuff".

Why am I seeing this on an old Japanese bike? Probably because Sugino were straight ripping other parts, and didn't realize they were copying the nonsense too?
>>
>>1982395
Yeah i've had a couple 70mm bsa frames.

Really you're best installing a decent 73mm cartridge unit, with metal spacers. That also allows you to adjust for asymmetry. The spacers are the same size as cassette spacers.
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>>1948835
i want to do a wheelie on this
>>
I really want to grab this new old stock univega, but she wants $300.
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>>1982444
I thought about perhaps doing that.
I also had a look on a few parts sites & ebay, and there are old spindles that would work for me, pretty cheap too, but that's kicking the can down the road.

Earlier today I took a trip to a shop that's not local to me, but the guy is in his 60s (good sign) and does repair/restoration with old bikes. He was happy to geek out about old parts, and when I showed him the frame, said it was reasonable to face it down to 68mm.

I had to make an appointment though. Kind of silly, but it's one guy, and I guess this is the time of year when bikes start piling up.
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>>1982729
That's a lot, but I think the alpina uno was decently high up in the range.
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>>1982729
what a horrible way to open an old box. Don't pay $300 just for the principle
>>
>>1956338
I remember your thread of your coast to coast trip and basically all your photos were of brick walls or junk food shops. Epic thread though
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>>1982994
>but I think the alpina uno was decently high up in the range
Anon's pic is a later model than the Alpina Pro I have, but in general the hierarchy was:
- Alpina Ultima (later replaced by 'Alpina Team'/some years didn't have this tier)
- Alpina Pro
- Alpina Sport
- Alpina Uno

>>1982729
Catalogs are hard to find, but check out these two sources were helpful when I was looking for info on mine:
https://univegacatalogs.wordpress.com/
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1166680-1985-1986-univega-catalogs.html

The decals on that bike are the same as in that 1989 catalog at the first link.
FWIW, I would buy that if it was the right size for me. It's still decently specced, and there's not really anything that needs swapped out except the rubber bits.
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>>1982729
I mean, I'd definitely offer $200 but if she was firm I don't think $300 is a horrible deal because it's brand new.
I'd service all the bearings straight away because it's rock hard now, and the grease in the shifter pawls may be frozen which is kind of a bitch to flush out but it's doable, I've done it.
use these necessities as bargaining chips, if the shifters are seized, you can demonstrate. paying a shop to service all the bearings would be $$$ even your own time is going to be a lot of effort but if it came to it I might still pay full price. new Walmart bikes are currently over $200 for some of them , so viewed that way it's still a deal
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>>1983123
>bearings straight away because it's rock hard now,
*the grease is rock hard
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>>1983123
oh and I guess those thumbies aren't sti so there's no pawls to worry about
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>>1981517
I used one for a while, it felt no different to me, other than if I spun out.
>>1981526
Sheldon Brown likes them.
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>>1983123
I just want the frame. it's been listed for over a month. i'll wait another month and offer her $100.

i could probably recoup the $100 if i clean and polish the wheels and components and put them on ebay as NOS
>>
why did schwinn stop making these types of bikes? the new ones are just cheap crap that look like ass
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>>1983779
the old ones were cheap crap too

t. old
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>>1983779
i always wanted one of the motorized ones of these
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bridgestone 500 that i found in the dumpster. the wheels were stripped, so i replaced that but it still has a ton of og components. just got cross brakes added on top to give me an upright position on the road
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>>1984338
neat.
bottle is perfect
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>>1984338
Those 27” rims?
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>>1984379
not him but good eye.
I bet you're right based on how they look proportional to that large frame, and that Paselas are still made in 27
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>>1984379
>>1984382
yeah they're 27"

it's a fun ride. currently looking at fender options.
>>
why did bikes in the 80s and 90s always have like 13-21t cassette/fws and 52/42 chainrings? why the absurdly high gearing? tdf average speeds have only gone up as the gearing has moved to a much wider range.
and yes i understand the want/need for small tooth gaps between gears, but i think a 110bcd crank with a 36/52 would have been much more ideal, idk.
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>>1984903
Emulate what the pros rode, people weighed less, and grinding/slow cadence was common.
FD's weren't setup for large tooth gaps in the front chainring. Some people back then did compact gearing like a 48/36.
I can see the issue.

With only a 13th out back you need a big chainring to be able to pedal and ride downhill. It's crazy how much harder the gears get when you go from say a 13 to a 12, 11, or 10th like modern cassettes have.

I ride a lot of single speed with a 48-18 as my only gear, and you just end up standing on climbs, and grinding. You adapt to the equipment.
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>>1984903
they had triples, even occasionally in the pro tour.
Giovanni Battaglin won the 1981 Giro on pic rel

Triples were reasonably common on nice road bikes all through the 80s and 90s.
53/42/30 type thing.

The compact and subcompact double also did exist back in the day, mostly french equipment, i have a stronglight 48/32 that is around 40 years old.
Less exotic, SR and Sugino 110bcd doubles were pretty common, but oddly they always seem to just have std chainring sizes (52/42 etc), not compact rings.

As for why tight cassettes, yes, gaps in gearing, also, for older stuff, freewheels often had a small wobble, you weren't getting modern ramping on the cogs for shifting, and the derailers of old were much worse than they are now and sat further away from the cogs. It just wasn't desirable to mess up shifting when a close block and a short cage derailer is just inherently much smoother.
The shift on a std double is also butter compared to going across a bigger range, and the shift patterns of old involved more front shifting and less cross chaining, the small chainring wasn't a bailout, you spent more time in it rather than escaping down the rear block in the big ring.
>>
>>1984903
a lot of campy triple setups with 30-27 low gear in the 90s.
the way ergopower shifters work too, with micro ratcheting for the front shifting, meant campag bikes were all compatible with triples, and many had them as OEM equipment.

You also had DA/ Ultegra etc triples for a long time, although they're part of a kind of midschool dark ages.

The nice old triples would also usually take a granny chainring down to 24t and shift it well enough and many did this mod for serious hill gears.
>>
>>1984903
>>1984953
>Emulate what the pros rode
this was always my assumption.
the pros had legs like brick shithouses and could mash through anything anyway, and the dudes who bought the ten speeds of the day wanted what the pros rode. but if you approached the pros with data about how lower gearing is better? they were all french and Italian, everything is about machismo. they show up to the race with a 36t ring, everyone else is going to call them a pussy.
nobody wants to show "weakness." even if it is better
impossible to say for sure, but this was always my headcanon
>>
>>1984971
well yeah and you could watch them on tv smashing it up 20% climbs in the big ring like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnX4uaDYyIU
>>
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>>1984903
>why did bikes in the 80s and 90s always have like 13-21t cassette/fws and 52/42 chainrings? why the absurdly high gearing?

Which bikes? Lets say you have:

>Shitter tier (gaspipe bsos)
>Sport tier (entry level)
>Club tier (decent good-value stuff)
>Race tier (exotic, high end)

The high gearing makes sense on club and race tier bikes because
>they're bought by strong riders many of whom basically just time trial on the flat
>they're made to be aesthetic
>customizing them makes sense

The one that really annoys me is how most of the nicer womens/step through/mixtes, (usually just a variant of an ok 'mens' bike) still spec around a 52/42 crankset.
Women who wanted fast road bikes bought fast road bikes, these things were solely beaters, usually ridden by weaker riders.
At the shitter end it was just BSO things, a shitter masquerading as a serious bike, but many companies had a sport or club mixte that was a reasonably nice bike and taiwan/japan had many 110 doubles that they could have specced.
Refusal to adopt unracer values is patriarchal oppression of women.
>>
>>1984971
I know someone who was scoffed at for running "compact" gearing back pre 1984. It probably wasn't as bad since she was a woman, but it was definitely a macho thing back then. My dad ran triples early back then since he has always been about 30-50lbs over the optimal climbing weight of a cyclist back then.
>>1984973
It's wild watching that. Only time I pedal that slow intentionally is on a single speed or standing for a short effort. never giving up my 14-28 Freewheels.
>>
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Got a package w/ a bunch of stuff, and wanted to share a pic. Sorry about the lighting, it's night.
New cranks for a 40 year-old bike, 46/30, square taper.
Love the look. Gonna try them on tomorrow.
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>>1986274
made by who?
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>>1986308
Well other than "172.5" there aren't any marks on them. But I would bet Blue Lug contracted Dia-Compe make them to their tastes. They've done similar in the past.

Compare to this page from their 2023-2024 catalog. Several differences--no logos, no polish finish, a different mix of existing rings, and available in one more size. Kind of lower spec, similar function.
They also have a five-arm crank with the same pattern of similarities.

Test fit the other night w/ an olde Shimano 600 bb. 113mm spindle, 130mm old rear looks good. The crank bolts had the black snap-on dust caps w/ the brass autex-style rings were included separately. They look good though.

I have a pair of those VeloOrange TA-clone cranks, and the arms are dead straight. Makes it a pain to set up a front derailer such that it doesn't rub the backside of the DS arm. That's with an olde flat outer plate fd. These cranks flare out subtly, it's a huge qol improvement.

The other thing with those VO cranks--the DS crank shipped assembled, but I could perceive relative movement, so I tightened the chainring bolts... and deformed half of them. 4mm hex on both sides, some oddball size. Quite soft, looks like some kind of stainless.
The kicker is these new cranks cost less.

Someone else (BikeForums? RBW Owners Bunch?) speculated that these aren't sold in the US, because a German in Seattle who sells an incompatible but aesthetically similar crank is... very aggressive, in a legal sense.
>>
>>1986560
>there aren't any marks on them
I don't get it, you said you opened them from a package, so who did you order them from ? or if it was a store, what did the webpage say? even the shitty ali stuff has some made-up brand name on the webpage.
>>
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>>1986588
Checked, but poor reading comprehension.

>not sold in the US
>Japanese manufacturer, Japanese bike shop
global.bluelug.com/blue-lug-ymc-w-crank-set-silver.html
>>
>>1986596
some of the prices on bluelug are actually pretty good, but isn't the shipping expensive? do they have a discount if you buy a certain amount?
>>
Yeah, they have good prices for parts from Japanese companies. And I'm going to buy Nitto, Dia-Compe, MKS stuff anyway... so that works for me.

I'd say a discount isn't necessary. Incl. shipping I'd estimate that I paid about 1/3 less vs buying from the usual US importers. Plus I was able to get some stuff that I didn't see elsewhere.

There are a lot of variables with shipping, and I won't pretend to know all the laws about taxes, fees, etc. I'm in the US, ordered on a Friday, and DHL dropped it off the next Tuesday. There weren't any extra fees or complications.

But I think it's a situation where ordering more at once kind of amortizes the shipping cost. Like, ordering one tiny thing might be $30, but for me a 20lb box was just at $100.
>>
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>>1941205
This was true
However 90s hybrids are the new 90s mtbs
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>>1987181
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>>1987182
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>>1987183
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>>1987184
>>
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>>1987185
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>>1987187
>>
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>>1987188
>>
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>>1987189
>>
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any peugbros?
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>>1987207
>peugeot
>tange sticker on seat tube
looks like a nice japanese bike.
>>
>>1987181
are all these yours? why do you have 15 of the same bike?
>>
>>1952524
The trick is to heat them up with a heat gun/torch before hammering. It loosens the corrosion or something, idk.
>>
Bought this for 50 dollars a few years ago and fixed it up. But I was too fat to ride it at the time so I left it in my dad's garage.

Gonna go get it now that I'm fit.
>>
>>1987843
>too fat to ride
man you must have been a UNIT
Looks like reynolds 531 or 501, a nice bike.
>>
>>1987873
Wasn't that I couldn't ride it, it was just uncomfortable and embarrassing so I didn't want to. Now I know why a lot of americans hate biking.

Lost about 70lbs since then and biking is actually fun.
>>
>>1987843
that paint looks right off the showroom
>>
>>1987843
absurd aggressive fashion fit with the track drops, brake levers way too low, and slammed stem

no wonder you couldn't ride it.

I like drops but you should consider even running swept risers or some kind of meme bar. It's a fucking beater.
>>
>>1987843
It's also a massive upgrade to retro brakes simply running flat bar levers.

And if you do stay with drops, slamming quill stems was never really a thing. It doesn't even look good.
>>
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What up
>>
i want to replace the front brake on my old eurotrash cruiser bike. can i basically choose any modern side-pull caliper brake/lever as long as the reach is correct?

also the wheels are old and they're angled, that means I need something they had a ball pivot adjustment for the pads, right?
>>
>>1987951
yo
>>
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>>1987954
pads are pretty much universal (some older brake calipers will have slightly narrower slots but can easily/safely be filed open to fit pads)
all nice pads now have toe adjustment so you can angle the pads.

So yeah, reach/ clearance

there's also the recessed vs nutted mounting.
You can get around this. A fork can easily be drilled on the back to accept a recessed nut. I do this a lot.
Drilling the rear is difficult as you need a right angle drill. The easier solution is just to run a modern caliper in the front only (front is 80% of your braking), or, you can run a front recessed brake in the rear (longer), with a traditional nut.
>>
>>1987951
uhhh wtf aero brakes are those lol

I would get a smaller granny on that crank, 26t or something.
also a technomic for higher bars or if you can find something similiar used.
>>
>>1987957
I never touch the granny gear

Idk, what’s wrong with the brakes? Bought the bike from some boomer. And I think I can raise that stem a little more
>>
>>1987957
>>1987971
Brakes are campy, I know that much
>>
Just spent 2 hours drilling out a stuck cotter pin on my 70s touring bike with the help of another dude at the bike collective. At least it has cotterless cranks now. I unscrewed the bb cup on the other side and pulled the non-drive crank, cup, and spindle out as one assembly. Thank god they had another french bb cup laying around.

Oh the joys of old bikes.....
>>
>>1987181
But anon, 90s mtb's ARE hybrids
>>
>>1988007
Shut up bitch
>>
>>1987181
>>1987182
You have some taste, my man.
>>
https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/d/brooklyn-vintage-peugot-single-speed/7731664117.html

80 bucks?
>>
>>1988185
>https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/d/brooklyn-vintage-peugot-single-speed/7731664117.html
Rusty peugeot uo8(carbolite) in a SMOL frame size with NO FD and a 2 speed chainring.....
For 80?

nah brah
>>
>>1988187
ghetto singlespeed (leaving a chainring or leaving a cluster or both) is totally valid for old shitters.
>>
>>1988195
A complete uo8 is sub 100 in decent to nice condition.
This.... is missing most of it's drivetrain, bars, and a fuckhuge stem.
Pretty cringe for 80 usd. Maybe OK for 0-40usd
Buying a hi-ten steel frame in that shape is wild for that price
>>
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Sergio Zanardo frameset. Still getting use out of a 105 groupset.
>>
>>1988204
classy
>>
>>1988204
>mid 80's biopace
>36 spoke wheels
>chrome stays and most of fork
>fade
>a size i could ride
would ride
>>
>>1987941
this
>>
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i have a nice 80s jap tange frame but i don't really like road bikes and just do city commuting so i'm thinking of doing a condorino style build with upright bars and 1x7 drivetrain. good idea or nah?
>>
>>1989295
Can be cool.

swept or flat bar conversions massively reduce reach so it's a good idea if the bike is all round too big, especially too long for you.
If it's small for you all around then it's not a good idea because it will be super cramped.
>>
>>1989295
that's exactly what I did except for 1x. it's hilly here so I was forced to get a compact crank and a megarange freewheel, particularly for big grocery runs.
I love my setup BUT, without the spinacci extension on the bar for a forward position, I could never put down any real power, which annoyed me. with it, it's perfect. can literally do everything, including go fast when I want.
>>
>>1989402
gangster
>>
>>1989320
>swept or flat bar conversions massively reduce reach so it's a good idea if the bike is all round too big, especially too long for you.

this is good advice that i wish i would've known on an earlier build where i sunk a lot of money into something that didn't feel right even after buying the longest stem i could find
>>
Just got some Panaracer Col De La Vie tires for my 650b Randonneur bike. Don't think they even make them anymore, just such an unpopular size in the USA that there's lots of backstock from 2015.
>>
>>1989434
those are popular in that size. they come in 650a, which is even rarer, too.
>>
>>1967516
smexy
>>1987181
i still dont know wtf a hybrid actually is
are they literally just mtbs on road tyres?
based regardless
>>
>>1987207
i almost bought a very pretty old pug for my gf but it was too far away so i got her an alu dawes instead
what couldve been...
>>
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>>1941180
my solid steel hardcore 2000s crosscountry bild
its come a long way since this pic but still not done yet
im so exited though its gonna ride like a dream
>>
>>1990347
A solid frame should weigh 300 lb.
>>
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Do I buy it?
>>
>>1991281
fuck it I bought it
Downtube shifters will take some getting used to but it rides nicely otherwise
>>
>>1991414
yeah, you get used to it and it becomes second nature.
I've got the opposite problem: I switched my fast bike to brifters and I'm still reaching down to nothing when I want to shift sometimes.

looks pretty neat. the big downside of old Peugeots is the obsolete french sizes but if it's running Shimano group then it's probably late enough model that uses regular stuff. hopefully . what's that steel decal say?
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>>1991473
its late 80s/early 90s so it doesnt have the French sizing
Mangalloy HLE, it's not some super high end bike Truth be told I'm a dummy that just likes the way this looks and wanted a roadbike to go along with my 90s pug mtb, I didn't want to spend big money on some high end bike
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>>1991568
radical !



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