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Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
previous: >>1974274
>>
New hope hub came in the mail today. Nearly puked when I saw "made in uk". Am I going to die?
>>
>>1977053
It's a bongish company, wtf did you expect? I always look into the details of a company before I buy. Even if it's made in a real country like taiwan, if the parent company is bongish I avoid like the plague
>>
how do i know if my sealant has dried/absorbed before i get a puncture that doesn't seal
>>
>>1977065
remove the valve core and stick the injector in there like a dip stick in a cage (you DO have a drivers license, right?)

another method is just to spin the wheel and listen for the sloshing noises but that only works on the front wheel because the rear wheel is gonna be too noisy (also if you have legacy metal wheels it will damp the sound much and you won't be able to tell)
>>
>>1977053
>be retard
>buy well known UK brand product that prides itself being made there
>complain on basket weaving forum
>>
>>1977065
Take wheel off
Shake wheel
No slosh, no sealant
>>
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>>1977069
>injector
the way i mounted them i just poured sealant into the broken bead, i'll find something to stick in there i guess.
>>
>>1977074
I've got something I can stick in there if you need it bb, if you need I can even inject some white stuff for you
>>
Anyone point me in the direction of a nice set of 2xl or 2xlt chamois lycra shorts (non bibs).

I currently use my Pearl Izumis and their great but it's a new season time for new shorts. I have a pair of aero tec designs 2xlt ones as well but those are kinda basic.
>>
>>1977080
I can't speak to the hamplanet sizing but I've
>non bibs
wait what? why would you even do that?
>>
>>1977081
I'm 6 ft 4 bro. Unless you buy nice bibs that are "tall" like from Aero tech designs they cut into your shoulders.

I'm also not so fat I need to wear the equivalent of human spanxx (bibs) under my club fit jersey, bro
>>
whats the n bqg trooncord
>>
>>1977078
no....no!!
>>
I lost a bearing in my front wheel hub but everything seems cool.. am I going to damage anything?
>>
>>1977131
just get another one desu, a big pack of various sizes is not really that expensive.
>>
>tire measures 52mm on the edge knobs
>3mm on each side on the front, maybe .5mm on the rear
>rene herse rtp is ~53mm toobless
>will def fit on front, unsure on rear
53mm rat trap pass on the front and 42mm naches pass on the rear? naches pass all around? not like i am going to have room for fender or anything regardless. Is running different tire sizes ever advisable?
I measured the "G-Height" between the shelf and the hook lip, and it seems to be within the spec so I guess they will be fine tubeless, but like they say, if they seat easily at a low psi then it's a no go.
But I really don't know if I should get the normal or extralight casing?
>>
>>1977131
Get another one
>>1977179
I run different tire sizes a lot. small in front big in rear is good for bump absorption. Big in front small in rear is better for front end grip/rolling resistance.
At least that's my theory.
>>
>>1977053
I fear its worse Anon, You are now gay
>>
Road racer build questions:

I got a Spez Tarmac F8r from 2012 i believe, 10sp 105 with the 5 arm FSA crankset 52T-36.

I already changed the seat, the brakes for Ultegra, and the wheels for Mavic Cosmics.

Im in the process of converting the transmission to Dura Ace 7800 (already ordered most of it)... and here come the questions:

Will the current 52T36 fit on the DA7800 cranks both being 5 arm?

Would you buy the DA7800 levers considering the curren 105s only weight 35g more and look better (7800 had outer cabling) imo? Pic rel
>>
>>1977270
>both being 5 arm?
the other thing that has to match is the bolt circle diameter - BCD.
>>
>>1977048
how do you motivate yourself to go for a ride when you don't have a reason to?
>>
What is the firmest rim tape one can get? It seems like the one I am using lets my TPU innertubes bubble out in certain spots under the nipple holes
>>
>>1977288
well have you tried the schwalbe non tubeless hi pressure rimtape, since you use tubes?
>>
>>1977288
I think your rim tape may just need to be replaced since it was either old or not installed correctly. Velox or Schwalbe stuff is fine.
>>
>>1977270
>Would you buy the DA7800 levers considering the curren 105s only weight 35g more and look better (7800 had outer cabling) imo? Pic rel
no
If it shifts good I would keep what's on it.
>>1977283
I have fitness goals, and I just love riding. I also notice my mentality slip in the wrong direction when I don't ride or do other positive things.
>>
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does this look weird?
>>
>>1977385
Yeah, you got a pie plate around your axle and no qr's.
>>
>>1977283
I can't ride right now. Otherwise I would simply for the sake of riding. Get out and ride for me anon
>>1977385
Looks like a bike in a public bathroom or someplace..? Wdym
Pedals look like cheap shite for a trash bike, front brake cable is scooted to be a bit long by the caliper,something alien mounted to the bars. Looks pretty normal what are you asking to hear??
>>
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>>1977385
First off your bike is brown, gross.
Second off those pedals, YUCK! Get some fookers if you want flats
Third, that tire gap. SHEEEESH, eat a cheese burger skeleton! Running out of belt holes!

Forreal though it does look weird from the front like this, but it's fine. If you can fit bigger tires I would though unless you're the racer type. I just love 38mm slicks.

those pedals are absolute ass though
>>
>>1977385
Yes. I had the same issue when I switched my 40 mm grabel tyres to 28 mm slicks. Didn't take me very long to go back to the 40s. The marginal increase in speed wasn't worth the hit to comfort, versatility and how dumb the bike looked.
>>
>>1977282
Thanks, doesnt match it seems, so im going to buy new rings, 53T38 probably.

>>1977323
Ill keep de 105s and the Ultegra brakes, yep.
>>
those of you that carry a dslr on a bike, how do you do it? especially when navigating rough and bumpy terrain.
>phone
my 100 dollar phone takes very poor photos
>>
>>1977385
Yeah, with that angle sure. The flat pedals almost bother me more though, I mean that style of flat pedal especially just looks out of place.
>>
>>1977385
I would've gone with the pink granite tile, personally.
>>
>>1977390
>Looks like a bike in a public bathroom or someplace..? Wdym
it's an apartment building hall

>>1977399
>First off your bike is brown, gross.
it's teracota
it looks cool in other light than this shitty hall leds I promise
>Third, that tire gap. SHEEEESH, eat a cheese burger skeleton!
that's what I'm talking about
>>1977413
>The flat pedals almost bother me more though
SPDs are on their way
>>
>>1977399
>>1977401
maybe I'll just buy other fork? damn
black one would probably look nice...
>>
>>1977385
ahahahaha every bike manufactured after 2006 or so makes me want to vomit
>>
>>1977399
>>1977443
what is wrong with you people
>>
>>1977442
dont be stupid

your bike is ugly
you have an ugly bike
narrow tires do not help but the aesthetics of them are inconsequential and you should ride whatever tires you have and or like not worry about such trivial things.
>>
>>1977447
it's sad since I've spend a lot of money on it
well, maybe some mudguards?
but they're unaero as fuck
>>
>>1977444
>>1977444
I don't think it's ugly because of any gay reasons like the other fag.. reasons like the pedals aren't the right brand, or it's painted brown after labor day.. I just hate the way modern bikes look. Nothing personal.
>>
>>1977442
dude, you have a fork that matches the awesome color of your bike and you don't even know if you'll stick with that size tires yet. chill out, buddy. nobody cares that your fork has way more clearance than your current tires. nobody can even notice unless they're looking straight on, and even then, they have to be a bike nerd, and most of the bike nerds here didn't even notice.
you're wayyy overthinking this
>>
>>1977453
maybe you're right
it looks awesome from the side
>>
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>>1977450
the best way to make a bike look cool is have fun riding it somewhere cool and then you will look cool
>>
>>1977454
iunno where all the hate itt is coming from.
remember when you first got it, everyone said it was cool. go by that .
>>
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>>1977451
>gay reasons
>pedals

Nice pedals are the best value upgrade you can do on any bike to make it actually nicer to ride. That style of pedal causes hotspots and foot pain and has poor grip.

>brown

Brown clashes with black. Nice brown bikes have to be exceptionally classy and laden with shiny silver parts.
See the various disgusting colorschemes of eternal french losers AG2R.
Imo you can do an ironic neopolitan icecream style with faded pink highlights, or, a pinterest terracotta style with deep blue highlights.

I wouldn't rush to do it though. A nice new bike like that should last you 5-10 years and you can rebuild it annually to maintain it. The colourscheme should be refreshed at a whim and alongside maintenance, not gratuitously to a fresh bike.
>>
>>1977442
>maybe I'll just buy other fork
why
you bought a gravel(?) bike with big clearances so just get big tires
get gks or rh tires, good on pavement, good on grabbel
>>
>>1977460
gp4k are good on pavement and good on gravel
>>
>>1977462
yeh, true. but he just seemed concerned that it looked silly.
>>
>>1977459
type that up in your silk nightgown, did ya? hope it doesn't clash with your the comforter on your bed.
>>
>>1977477
You, or the giant owner should go and get toe straps for those pedals. Would be a pretty big cheap upgrade if it can take them, just kinda looks like they could.
>>
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What’s wrong with my derailleur? It makes a clicking / grinding noise when I pedal and the chain seems loose or something

Yes I’m retarded
>>
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>>1977482
I changed my bike tire yesterday
>>
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>>1977483
**bike tire
>>
>>1977483
it looks like the cage is contacting the cassette
>>
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>>1977484
it didn't occur to you that the stationary derailleur shouldn't TOUCH THE FUCKING SPINNING SPROCKETS ON HUB?! c'mon now, son... give your head a shake
>>
>>1977482
>campagnolo treated like that
feels bad man
>>
>>1977485
>>1977489
>>1977485
Ok, how do I fix it? Also it seems really loose. Normal?
>>
>>1977492
>seems really loose
might be time to replace. i've had an rd get sucked into the spokes and explode. just shorten your chain.
>>
>>1977492
Seems like a nut fell off or something? So the derailleur won’t clamp to the arm hard enough not to rub the cassette?

It was never like this until I changed my tire
>>
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>>1977496
>>
>>1977496
O shit I think this piece just fell off the place the derailleur is screwed to. So the screw won’t catch right now. Corroded or something?? New bike time?
>>
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>>1977498
>>
>>1977499
I want to call you names, but I'm trying to be a nicer person, so I'll just say that you should've done some basic research before attempting whatever repair or maintenance you tried, and then did a lot of damage by choosing to continue to ride it even though you clearly knew you did something wrong.

How many miles did you put on it after the "tire change"?
>>
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>>1977489
>campagnolo
fanged out entry level campagnolo isn't precious at all it's at best useable and typically garbage
>>
>>1977507
I literally rode it like 50 feet and realized something was wrong
>>
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I'm looking for an an affordable ($400 - $500 max) Electric bike.
I would need to buy one where the store accepts PayPal, so Amazon is out of thr question.
Does anyone recommend any e-bike shops? Preferably ones that have foldable bikes too.

Thank you.
>>
>>1977499
Do you know where the part came off of? I can't tell from the pic. Usually the derailleur has a little adjustable nub that sits against the protrusion on the hanger (it's there so not broken off). That nub can be adjusted to increase or decrease the distance of the pulley to the cassette. Best to look up the manual for where the adjustment screw is on the derailleur.
>>
>>1977606
I know of this one. There are other deals out there.
No idea what they accept in payment.
https://www.royceunion.com/rme-electric-comfort-bike-e4719/
>it's over my budget
look around on other sites and see what you can or can't get for your money.
You are asking a lot for an e-bike for that price.
>>
>>1977454
I think your rear tire is on backwards, not that this actually matters much.
>>
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>>1977610
If I got to save a bit more and get a $550 or $600 bike, that's fine. I just need something that can carry some groceries too.
>>
>>1977606
>>1917453
>>
>use bike in trainer
>setup is comfy, no saddle sores or pains anywhere
>go for a 50mi ride
>everything is FUCKED

This anecdote is making me wonder if I could use my bike trainer to get my cleats all set up when I buy pedals and shoes. Common sense says no, but maybe it'll be different since my bike is all dialed in fit wise now. I mean I guess it's better to ride 10-15mi at a time and make adjustments while I bring tools along since the trainer isn't indicative of the real world environment.
What about buying shoes online? From what brick and mortar retailer can you get shoes from in the US? There is a REI 80mi from me and a Dicks about 40mi. Bike shops in my state have no inventory. I'm not making a 20mi trip to the closest bike shop because they ordered a pair for me just to go back and forth until I get a pair that fits.
>>
>>1977641
Most of my shoes were bought online but I have very average feet. My dad has a wide left foot so he got specific shoes. There are good sales going on right now, just check the return policy and reviews to see how they fit. Anecdotally my shimanos fit a little tight, and my sidis fit a little better. I have an average foot size 10 or 9.5 depending on shoe.

I don't use a bike trainer so I have no idea how the fit compares to your normal riding. I just get on the bike and adjust it if it feels bad.
>>
>>1977607
I think that little piece is from the frame itself. Maybe the notch that the derailleur hanger is supposed to latch onto
>>
>>1977482
What you've lost, on a shimano derailer, would be the tension which the b-screw adjusts.


>Most derailers have an angle adjustment screw (Shimano calls it "B-tension adjustment"). This adjusts the tension of the upper ("b") spring of the parallelogram, and thus the height of the jockey pulley. The looser this screw is, the closer the jockey pulley will be to the cluster.
>The angle adjustment will need to be set according to the size of the largest rear sprocket. If you change to a cluster with a larger or smaller low-gear sprocket, you will need to re-adjust this setting. You will also need to adjust this if you change the length of your chain.
>If the angle adjuster is set too loose, the jockey pulley will bump into the largest sprocket when the bicycle is in the lowest gear (large rear, small front). This is the gear you should check the adjustment in. A larger low-gear sprocket may require a different rear derailer, for enough angle adjustment to clear the sprocket. In extreme cases, such as with a Shimano 36-tooth sprocket, a longer angle-adjustment screw may be needed -- some people even install the screw backwards.
>Since a derailer shift is caused by forcing the chain to run at an angle, the greater the angle, the sooner it will shift. The closer the jockey pulley is to the cluster, the sharper the angle will be for a given amount of sideways motion of the derailer. Thus, the looser the angle adjuster screw is, the better the shifting will be.
>Campagnolo Rear Derailers
>2001 and later Campagnolo rear derailers don't use a "b tension" adjustment. Instead, they have an "a tension" adjustment. Spring balancing is done with this adjustment, but in the opposite direction. That is, loosening the "a tension" has the same effect as tightening the "b tension."

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
>>
Your derailer hanger is just part of the frame. It's steel. That part isn't from it.
I would guess it's something around the mounting bolt which affects spring tension.
I would try to take the derailer apart in that area, clean every part thoroughly, and apply some (not a lot messily) grease on re-assembly. You may be able to work out where that part should go. Maybe it's just that a spring is not sitting in a hole.
Roughly like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgiNuJNynMc

Your derailer hanger is also bent.
>>
>>1977482
post the whole bike. If it's a shitter you can fix $$ old campy inexpensively by janking it like you could just put whatever shimano mech and a friction shifter
you also want to work out how worn it really all is, shifters, hoods of shifters, cassette life, chainring life, slop in derailers, rear wheel brake track, wheel bearings & spokes, cables
>>
>>1977606
>I'm looking for an an affordable ($400 - $500 max) Electric bike.

~$500 barely gets you a new regular bike.
You should be looking on craigslist.
Second hand e-bikes can be had for that price. I would try to buy one which has problems as a bicycle (wheel buckled, brakes suck, gears suck), which can all be fixed/improved on, rather than that has e problems (battery doesn't last/dead or fucky electrics) so basically hasn't been ridden much and isn't that old. Otherwise you're just buying someone else's e-waste.
>>
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>>1977651
Idk if it’s a shitter but kinda gets treated like one. I ride it pretty hard. But I’m just getting into working on it myself so idk what I’m doing
>>
>>1977672
that's a nice bike
you've -already- got friction thumbies

It's a no brainer to swap to a shimano derailer if your campy one is broken. Straighten your hanger with a crescent wrench. Eyeball it.

I would also look for a smaller granny chainring, currently probably a 30t, look for 26t.
And I would also upgrade the front brake.
>>
>>1977672
That's a decent bike. I agree with>>1977675
anon, just make sure you get a derailleur with the same cage length. Probably a medium or long cage since you run 3x crankset.
Those pedals look nice.
>>
>>1977675
>>1977677
Thanks for advice yall. Pedals are aliexpress lmao

I want to go down to 2x tho. I only use like 6 gears probably
>>
>>1977672
Could just remove the smol chainring+limit the FD movement. would be a good way to learn more about bike wrenching. Park tool videos are good for that.
>>
>>1977679
kinda pointless just to save what, 50g?
>>
>>1977680
I agree but if would be a ghetto/free 2x conversion.
>>
>>1977684
one day this guy will be so tired from doing his first century that he can barely pedal, really missing that granny gear
>>
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do i get the koi, hana, or haru if my bike is white with red lettering/decals
>>
>>1977690
koi so you have fish on your bike.Watch out for landsharks.
>>
>>1977675
friction? i think they're indexed (they click when I shift)?
>>
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>>1977440
The gap doesn't matter bro im only teasing you. Look like a bike. If it bothers YOU the solution is wider tires.
>>
>>1977454
I just wanna say all my hate is ironic, your bike looks good. You need to keep your chin up dude if some retards on 4chan making fun of your bike pits you down you need to toughen up. Literally the only reason anyone made fun of you is because you acted insecure to begin with.
>>
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>>1977646
This is the protrusion I'm referring to. Maybe Campagnolo does something different, I've never used it.
>>
>>1977048
I got SPD pedals and I dont even know where to begin from to solve the odd feelings they give me, I see no indications on the internet on how to set them to lessen the stress in the inner/back part of the ankles
I'm just trying different set ups to see what works at this point
anyone who had a similar experience can give some suggestions?
>>
>>1977740
Back part of the ankle tells me your cleats are too close to the toe, or your seatpost is too high, or both
>>
>>1977741
it's not the achille's tendon, it's more in the inner part, if that makes a difference
>>
>>1977740
Start by positioning the cleat as inwards and back as posible, and level de the seat if its tilted and lower ir 0,5-1cm.
>>
Is there any reason to go with a road shoe other than off road shoe? I can get a pair of PD-M250s for like 38 bucks new, and depending on who you look at off road shoes seem to be cheaper. Say if I bought a pair from lake, someone who makes stiff shoes, are their off road shoes going to be just as stiff as road and they just have some extra tread? Not as light maybe?
>>
>>1977741
>>1977754
alright I'll try that and report back
>>
>>1977757
There are more walkable/flexy MTB shoes than there are road shoes, but the major difference between road and MTB is just historical shit. Back in the day ultra-thin-sole carbon fiber road shoes weren't a thing, so the best way to have a lot of surface area and minimal hotspots was to make the pedal itself as large as possible

/n/ has a hissy fit every time I say this but the unpopular truth is that with today's technology, road shoes are more a matter of tradition and culture, kind of like shaving your legs

I say this as someone who used to have MTB shoes and went to road and decided to stick with road just for the A E S T H E T I C S, MTB is objectively a better user experience but ultimately it is a >skill issue and road is fine if that's what your tribalism tells you to do
>>
>>1977761
I mean I am leaning more towards MTb because...cheap entry when considering pedal and cleat prices. two bolt pedals and cleats are generally cheaper than three bolt it seems. i was just wondering if I was actually losing anything by going the off-road route and if that's the case then I suppose not.
>>
>>1977758
We not even the same person, if that counts.
>>
>>1977763
yeah I could tell, but your advices aren't clashing
(I'll be trying tomorrow, by the way)
>>
>>1977762
what you lose is access to three-bolt pedal types. there tends to be more float adjustment in road pedals but that's not always true. there tend to be stiffer soles for three bolt but that's not always true. the main thing is honestly just the way it looks and the signal it sends to other cyclists
>>
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>>1977757
Road pedals/shoes do offer a more planted/stable feel than 2 bolt systems, even when you've got a shoe with a very stiff sole. 2 bolt is fine and will get the job done on the road, but road pedal systems are more comfortable in the long run since they're distributing force across a wider area of the sole.
>>
>>1977767
>>1977765
I'll take this into consideration then
>>
>>1977768
personally I can't stay clipped in when I sprint on the trainer with SPD, my feet pop out, and I stay clipped in fine with SPD-SL
>>
>>1977706
Yup, bike shop confirmed I need a new derailleur. Should I stick with campy or go Shimano?
>>
>>1977789
>Should I stick with campy
if you have a co-op near you, try to find something shimano 600, 105, tiagra - will be a lot cheaper than anything campy. any road rd will work, if it says max 28t, you can likely run a 32t max even with a short cage rd.
suntour stuff can be good and reliable as well, so keep an eye out for that if you can score something cheap. but if it's floppy and loose, i wouldn't spend any money on it.
alternatively, you can get some microshit rd, they're fine for how much they cost and you can get them new. i cant attest to longevity, but the one i had on a bike i sold was solid and seemed pretty well made.
>>
where can i get a tubus tara in stainless that i know for a fact is real? not sure how much i trust amazon/ebay, and none of the retailers i would go through normally have it in stainless, only black.
>>
>>1977791
where are you located? if authenticity is your primary concern, you can try to look at Tubus's international distributors and go down the chain from there to find a source that you can either order from or shop that can special order if for you.
>>
>>1977799
Forgot to mention US. Yeh, JBI has it so I guess I'll have to get my lbs to order me one.
>>
>>1977789
As I said in my previous post, I have no experience with Campagnolo. If your shifters are indexed you'll have no choice but to stick with them since afaik Campagnolo spacing is incompatible with other shift systems. If it's friction you should be able to choose whatever.

From personal experience I've never had a Shimano component fail but ultimately most options are viable.
>>
>>1977791
I got my tubus and my panniers from wayne at the touring store, it cost a little more than amazon/ebay but I know it's legit
>>
>>1977803
When I asked him he was acting pretty pushy, said he would give me a pretty hefty discount if I would fuck his wife in front of him. Had to decline, though. That's pretty weird even if I am saving a few bucks.
>>
>>1977806
You must be better looking than me
>>
>>1977790
>>1977801
Yeah I saw some shimanos on eBay for like $40

Wait, if they click when I shift they’re indexed right? Bike shop guy also said to make sure the cage is the right length
>>
>>1977813
>if they click when I shift they’re indexed
Did the rd move one single gear per click? Or did you have to move it along for multiple clicks to change gear? Find out what shifters you have, model, pics etc. Should be some sort of engraving/marking somewhere.
>>
>>1977790

i think this is the part i need. is it compatible with any derailleur?

https://www.amazon.com/Campagnolo-Derailler-Pivot-Sleeve-RD-RE116/dp/B001GSQX4C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
>>
>>1977813
>Wait, if they click when I shift they’re indexed right?
If it's one click per gear, yes.

>Bike shop guy also said to make sure the cage is the right length
Since you're running 3x I'd say medium is right.

>>1977839
>is it compatible with any derailleur?
Nah

I'd recommend trying to get a cheap used x9 Campagnolo rd as a direct replacement. Trying to find replacement parts for older components isn't worth the hassle imo.
>>
>>1977801
Not exactly true about compatibility. You can see people running Campy shifters with shimano cassetes. Its tricky, but can be done in some cases.

For example 10sp campy road shifters work with 8sp shimano cassetes.
>>
>>1977842
Right. Looks like that part (a single tiny washer essentially) is 50 bucks AKA the price of a whole derailleur? Seems crazy
>>
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anyone got a serviceable cup and cone square taper bb? suggestions on what to get?
>>
>>1977843
Sure, but tellling the anon that you can mix and match or run a short cage rd if he finds the right parts to save a few bucks is terrible advice.
>>
>>1977849
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meErJdr_fUI

they're all serviceable.
>>
>>1977606
>Electric bike
wrong thread
>affordable ($400 - $500 max)
lol, lmao
>>
>>1977849
>anyone got a serviceable cup and cone square taper bb
yes. I have one.
>>
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If your options are between the Surly front rack and the Tubus grand expedition, both of which are the same price, which do you get? The GE is lighter, has a fifth mounting strut, half the weight but half the carrying capacity. I thinking having upwards of 70lbs on your bike sounds fucking terrible, so clearly it's never going to be pushed to that respect. But the 38lbs capacity of the Tubus is still more than my current rack (15lbs) which doesn't have lowrider mounts.
The Tubus also looks like it can go mid fork and rear lower eyelet, I don't have eyelets on the front of the dropout, and am going to be using clamps in lieu of a mid fork eyelet so I should probably not load up so much on the weight to begin with. I really wish I could get a Nitto 34F since it's a polished steel, but it's also $300 compared to about $140.
Has anyone used the GE? How does it hold up with abuse? I'm getting a front rack with a platform as my only rack so I can have a rando bag up top and I like having the weight on the front rather than the rear. I am planning on going on some short tours (300-500mi) and traveling lightly...and am on a budget! I already have a set of panniers, next is just making a rando bag when I can get a decaleur to build it around.
>>
>>1977895
I have the Surly and love it, but my load capacity is probably more than yours. it does require mid-fork bosses so ironically I had to buy clamp-on adapters made by Tubus. I used p-clamps for several years but due to my heavy loading they broke.
>>
how much would it cost to have your bike professionally painted? Kinda want to change my bike to a panda scheme or full grey.
>>
>>1977906
>I had to buy clamp-on adapters made by Tubus
Yep, that is what I was going to get rather than either make my own clamps or use the crappy hardware store ones, or try brazing on my bike. How does the silver finish look irl? In photos it lookes kinda matte. Also does the fork stabilizer thingy help? Also I didn't realize that the Surly came with bracketry fior mounting so I was concerned about flexibility with mounting but I think either should mount fine.
Have not found anyone comparing how robust they are. How long have you been using yours?
>>1977909
prob not more than a couple hundred usd for a strip and powdercoat at a local shop.
>>
>>1977912
>How does the silver finish look irl? In photos it lookes kinda matte
yeah, the silver finish is not metal, it's silvery paint with flake in it. I think it's actually powdercoat. but that's because it's tubular cromoly steel like a frame, it needs paint. so it's not shiny like metal.

>does the fork stabilizer thingy help?
yeah, a lot. I had to modify mine so I could mount it upside down because the fender was in the way. it's called a "wheel stabilizer," they used to be cheap at VO but price is higher now. I assume you could get a good one one off ali, the design is decades old and VO just gets generic ones and puts them in a bag with their logo on it.

>How long have you been using yours
like ten years -ish. no issues.
>>
>>1977917
Yeah, I wanted something in a polished stainless, but that is not happening within my budget, i think I could settle with the silver if I end up with the Surly. Powdercoat implies finish durability so that's good. The VO stabilizer I had planned on getting previously, just didn't since i never carried much of a load on the front, and I want to order their decaleur when it comes back in stock and I'm probably paying shipping on whatever, so nbd if it's a couple bucks more.
>decade of use
Ok, I think that's a pretty good testament to longevity.
My only concern is that it's double the weight of the Tubus, but considering that its weight limit is pretty high, I guess it makes more sense to go with the Surly based on headroom? At least that's my thought process.
>>
>>1977849
I haven't encountered a non-serviceable one. Get a shimano one since they are cheap and good.
>>
>>1977927
I bought Surly because it had the highest load limit for something I could get in the US. I don't know about tubus because I wasn't finding them in the US online stores back then but maybe that was my failing. when I bought the tubus adapters they were on US scamazon but that was several years later and I think it was through a 3rd party seller? I don't remember.

when I pulled it out of the shipping box, it felt extremely light for it's size, but I don't remember the actual spec. my feeling is that surly will satisfy every need but if you don't need the load limit then a lighter tubus may be better for your use case. I've loaded those side baskets up with bricks I found on the roadside to decorate my garden. the Surly is probably stronger than most people will use but OTOH better to have and not need than to need and not have. I don't think a few extra grams is a big deal but lol you see the rest of the bike, it's not a weight weenie build
>>
>>1977938
>OTOH better to have and not need than to need and not have.
yeh, that's what I'm thinking
I was only concerned about weight because my thought process was to shave where it's not warranted since it's about 1.5-6lbs more than the Tubus and I think that is pretty considerable. I feel like I would rather have that weight taken up by gear, but then again the bike I'm using now will probably not be my permanent touring bike. I mean shit, I haven't even decided if I want to go with my longer rake/wheelbase mtb over my shorter wheelbase road bike, so handling differences are going to vary anyway.
Maybe the Surly is just a better buy for the aforementioned reason and the weight wont make any appreciable difference on a loaded bike. idk.
I think if I buy the Tubus and decide to go with something heavier duty, I can probably resell it for around the 120 bucks I will pay for it considering the $240 list price in the US. The rack and mount is ~150 usd shipped from Germany, and the Surly will be ~160 with the LM-1.

Prob just gonna go with the Surly desu
>>
Looking at a bike on Craigslist (pic rel.). Seller says it's 2010ish. I'm trying to dig up a little history on the SystemSix nameplate and it sounds like they stopped making the first generation of them around 2008 before they brought the name back for the aero bike, and the online sources I've found also refer to an aluminum rear triangle. Is that true? Is it glued/lugged, or bonded some other way, or my sources are wrong and it's not a carbon/aluminum mix? Pic doesn't look like there are any lugs in there, but I could be wrong.

(I'm also a bit on the heavy side at ~90kg bodyweight, don't think that's pushing it too far on this frame/wheelset but I could be wrong.).
>>
>>1977961
Like, there could be some kind of glued lug under there, but it doesn't really look like it to me
>>
>>1977961
>>1977962
Yeah, the System Six was launched in 2006 I believe, and was gone after 2008.
>>
>>1977962
>>1977961
And yes, the rear triangle is aluminum. They made a model without paint on the joints, so you can see it pretty clearly. Here's a recent vid of a guy building one up and you get some good shots of it near the beginning.
https://youtu.be/gS3e50WrsGw
>>
>>1977972
oh shit thanks
hmm I wonder how those joints held up
>>
>>1977961
cannondales used to be renowned as the stiffest aluminum road bike made. I weigh 105kg and have done alright on older racy frames so the cannondale should be fine for you.
>>1977977
I wouldn't worry about it too much. in the 2000's companies had around 20 years of glueing carbon/aluminum experience so it should be decent.
Generally you want to look for white powder dust, that would mean the aluminum is corroding and turning into dust and the frame is on it's way out.

I have a mtb with glued carbon/aluminum from that era and it's been fine.
Looks like a nice bike. Mavic wheels, carbon post, carbon crank and modern group.
Stem looks weird, but it's a modern piece.
>>
>>1977288
use mach tape. you can get it at the hardware store under the 'gorilla tape' brand
>>
>>1977985
Thanks this is good info. I was watching the video in >>1977972, looked like quite a bit of surface corrosion on the aluminum but guy only talked about it as a cosmetic problem. Is there a straightforward way to distinguish between cosmetic and structural aluminum corrosion?
>>
>>1977985
>modern group
>10 speed SRAM from 15 years ago.
>>
>>1977743
you might have them set up too straight, if you walk with your toes pointed out your shoes should be toes out slightly while pedaling also
this will also fuck with you knee if not corrected
maybe try flat pedals again too and see how you like your foot position and angle. it shouldn't be any different, just locked in
>>
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/single-speed-city-bike-500-carbon-grey/_/R-p-306292
I've been thinking about getting this one strictly for commuting. Does it have any obvious flaws? Any not so obvious? Will the spare parts availability be limited or something?
Looks like it's impossible to adjust saddle tilt, so that's a bummer.
44x18 ratio seems good enough, it's not that hilly around here, no exploding knees. I pump lots of km on my road bike so I'm fit enough.
Why single speed? I want the least maintenance overhead possible. I guess the only improvement could be if it had a belt instead of a chain.
>>
Any recommendations for used bikes to watch out for with modern parts (disc brakes, carbon fork) but steel tubing? Some guy is selling a Soma Smoothie near me but it's a tad too big. I just want something relatively affordable (<$1K) that I can modify and keep up with the freds.
>>
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why arent frame surfaces faced from the factory?
>>
>>1978126
44x18 would give you theoretical maximum speed of 19.5mph@100rpm
>>
>>1978137
Because the headtubes and BB shells they’re buying from Taiwan already are
>>
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I'm in between the Lake CX219 and the CX177, the main difference being that the outsole is 100% carbon vs injected fiberglass nylon, price difference being 70 bucks. I'm a cheap asshole, but I can afford either.
Is it worth it to spend the extra 70 for a carbon sole? I ride like 5k miles per year, and my rides are usually 3-4 hours. How much life can I expect from a cycling shoe before it begins to collapse or something?
>>
>>1978165
It's not worth it.
>t. had carbon sidi's now use cheap shimanos.
>>
>>1978165
I have been wearing giros on the same last since forever and getting the ones with the easton carbon sole has been very noticeable and very nice. how much life you get out of it depends on your riding conditions and if you insist on swapping out cleats all the time
>>
the bearing cages in my shitty old bike are roached, so i just threw'em away. i should probably add another bearing or two eventually, right?
>>
>>1978177
more balls=stronger. Cage is there for ease of removal and assembly. Make sure you measure them with a caliper in fractions of an inch, since many balls are that size.

If your bike is vintage french then it may use metric balls.
>>
what do i do if i love my bikes frame and almost everything except for the derailleur, cassette, chainring and shifters
i am totally new to this and just got jealous of a friends bike components feeling much smoother when riding and climbing compared to mine
>>
>>1978165
anyone know if the lake womens wide is going to be the same as the mens wide? they don't have this model in a 38w on their site, and they have no denomination of women's and men's on their site either so...are these real? price just seems way too good to be true.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204508044640
>>1978196
make sure everything is set up correctly and not worn out before you change anything.
>>
>>1977842

https://www.ebay.com/itm/134915270914?hash=item1f6993a902:g:ucQAAOSwnoplusrN&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4IPg%2FH%2BTknfMe8m5lA0TVxiK8FNn7U703bBoi2tSOJjjvC4gO2I%2FlXpcNuTjgOJaVcUsULWskKQVy0LNSV8AvlImVEd7flw8GNa9AVQVEtWGdQtBsbVQ9M4YeLdThVD%2FwnWGmvZv57N004VHfcDp6jkuoaouBxMG6MY7IjXPmZChbvXIZuAaQi%2FERWpRHinUBOVdXDmzDIbET%2BUwTx%2B%2BnVTXkKCWZUsjoIB0mDruhiylIGRROk7ijRlKlcZ3amSlFQEiZHJ13zXpEspZeBCTwMr7YbyNrcV67l5tzflpFVZg%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Dk78avYw

i think this would be compatible?
>>
>>1977672
I rode one of those, they're great.
>>
>>1978228
yeah man, i love it. pretty fast but also seems really durable and tough
>>
for the purpose of riding my fat ass on a loaded bike across cobblestone (say, 140-150kg for bike+me+cargo), should I go for a bike with clearance for 55mm tires, or would the bike that costs half the money but can only fit 40mm suffice?
>>
Can I fit a 8-46 on my 8speed bike? It uses claris and I wanted to improve the range for climbing
>>
>>1978242
probably not, those high range cassettes require different shifters. if claris supports 36t cassettes, maybe it can work with 40t.
>>
>>1978243
Even with a wolf link and longer cage?
>>
>>1978242
Much easier to fit a 3x at that point.
>>
>>1978247
Even if I did something like that
https://youtu.be/4s-4dwOGbaA
>>
>>1977048
Can I fit a Predator 212cc 6.5 HP on a Huffy beach cruiser? (12 or 10 ga spokes, ofc)
>>
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>>1978226
Google tells me old 8- and 9-speed have the same pull ratio so they're compatible. However post 2001 they changed things up for 9-speed.
I'm not 100% sure where exactly your rd falls but apparently you can tell the pull ratio by the position of the b screw. Old Campagnolo derailleurs have it directly at the mounting point, yours with the screw on the cage (picrel) would be the new pull-ratio. The b screw is the thing I previously told you to adjust to set the distance to the cassette.

So that rd wont work as far as I'm concerned.

I guess you learn something new every day.
>>
>>1978255
So I did some digging and you were right this (>>1977839) is the correct part. The RD-RE116 is the successor to the RD-VL009.

So if you can get it cheaply replace it otherwise refer to >>1978255 for finding a fitting rd.
>>
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>>1978247
wtf i don't think this derailleur is feeling good. are all 1x like this? this looks extremely niggarigged to me, as you can see he had to fit a derailleur extansion and probably you will have too, unless you change rear derailleur.
do you have a 1x crankset? 8 speed cassette are now super cheap, you can get a shimano 3x crankset and 11-30ish cassette for the price of that zitto probably, so unless you are allergic to front shifting i agree with the other anon change crankset it will shift better.
>>
>>1978249
>>1978264
post just over was for you sorry
>>
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good nuff to lock up a 90s mtb?
>>
>>1978264
looks good to me, only needs a slightly longer chain. But maybe you cant fit a longer chain... (may rub the rear derailleur when on smallest cog)
>>
>>1978264
derailleurs always look stretched out on big-big, or in your case, big-only.

>>1978272
probably overkill if anything. getting a cable instead of a chain for the front wheel would save a lot of weight and money. you can get cable cut to length at the hardware store and they sell the metal things to make the loops at the end, you just thread the cable and smash it down with a hammer . but kryptonite etc sell them, too
>>
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>>1978274
>>1978279
kek nope this is how it should look. that stretch is over breaking point you can't go around like that. that video is criminal, derailleur is going to snap on someone balls
>>
and btw i'm not suggesting to buy an eagle, but there's a limit on frankenrigging and "just try and see if it works"
>>
>>1978264
1x shills will defend this
>>
>>1978303
you think the tensioner arm should stick to a small portion of if total range of travel? why?
>>
>>1978313
I think when cassettes hit 450g and $500 and started requiring proprietary narrow-wide chains and ultra-stiff derailleurs almost the length of the entire chainstay with a computer actuated clutch contraption to keep it from flopping around like it wants to and a metal contraption bolted onto the seattube that sits where the FD would sit if it was a normal bike but its sole purpose is to prevent the chain from flying off in front, and you're still supposed to never stop pedaling too fast because the cassette has enough stored momentum to power a small city for an hour and will attempt to overcome all the safeguards and fling itself into your spokes, someone should have stopped and asked how the fuck things got to this point and whether it was worth it for just not having to adjust a FD once a year

at the same time, I do love rube goldberg "engineering solutions" because it's funny, so carry on, I'll be here taking bets on how much worse it can get (so far it has surpassed all my expectations)
>>
>>1978264
That is a 2x 32/22.
Yes this is kinda normal but it looks like an old shimano deore xt derailleur with a wolftooth goatlink on it to fit the huge cassette.
Not entirely sure why he did that since a trek 930 is a 26in bike with a 3x stock.

I would have kept the 3x and run a 32 or 34 cassette, with 26in wheels you can climb a ton of shit with 22-32. Even at 110kg I don't use that gear a ton climbing uphill on steep offroad terrain.

I have 2 bikes with 1x. One, my dad built up with modern tech and a skinny 12speed chain. Another is a dh bike that can do enduro now with a larger cassette. It's never my first choice.
>>
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>>1977048
I've unscrewed the brake from the frameset and aligned it multiple times but it always rubs just a bit. What are my other options? Is there a way to increase the gap between the calipers?
>>
>>1978249
>>1978264
>>1978297
wtf I am going to do something similar to my bike because I have trouble going uphills at certain places, my knees hurts so can't do it. won't the chain be too short?
>>
A friend of mine told me you can turn a 2x into a 1 by just removing the larger chainring and keeping the smaller one. But when I am looking at it I don't see how that is possible or am I dumb? Every video about these conversions seem to add a separate chainring and not the ones that was originally there
>>
>>1978344
What happens when you do that is you just ride with a slightly inboard chainring+smaller cassette.
It's still 1x, but when bikes are designed for 1x they have longer crank spindles so the chainring has the best chainline for as much of the cassette as possible. Many of them run the narrow/wide chainring to stop chain dropping issues. Back in the day we ran chain guides that were just fixed FD's essentially.

Depending on your setup you could move the chainline out or in via spacers or spindles.


OTOH it doesn't really matter a ton and if you run the whole cassette fine in your small ring removing the FD+outer ring will still allow you to run the small ring fine.
Then if you get a larger cassette that your RD can handle it will work.
>>
>>1978329
>That is a 2x
oh yeah that's right didn't even get a proper look sorry. what was the point of showing this gear then.
>>
>>1978348
Maybe why not to run big/big gear ratios?
>>
>>1978323
This is the most reddit thing I’ve seen all day and I just got back from reddit
>>1978264
Your derailleur is fine, obviously not the “normal” chain length but like you said, it’s just a spring stretched out under normal conditions plus a little friction plate that has nothing to do with cage position, it shouldn’t be causing problems.
But your ghetto 1x conversion might, part of a proper 1x system is having narrowwide chainrings and chain that mesh together really securely and basically stop chains from dropping
>>
>>1978347
I actually tried this right now and it seems to fit everything but the bolts are spinning I think there should be a spacer between? or is there a narrower bolts to buy?
>>
>>1978360
You may have to get 1x/track bolts since the female part that the male bolt threads into could be too long so there is slop.
You could cut them down as well. Could also fit a washer as a test fit.
>>
>>1978366
I will buy some washers don't have any available at home.
A thing I was wondering since I am going to install a larger cassette and ordered a derailleur extender, do I attach this on my derailleur hanger? Looking at both of them it doesn't seem like it would fit
>>
>>1978367
If you buy the extender you install that first on your bike derailleur hanger, then install the derailleur to it.
>>
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>>1978371
This is how the extender looks like
>>
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>>1978371
This is how my hanger looks like
>>
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Will I make cycling friends if I join my LBS road group rides?
>>
>>1978406
if u want to hang with 60yo retired dudes, probably
>>
>>1978373
I mean it should still work.
>>
Do I buy the cone wrench I need from amazog or from the LBS down the street with a groomer flag in the window?
>>
>>1978341
help meeeeeee reeeeeeeeeeee
>>
I have a good clearance when using 700x40 tyres on my gravel bike and I am thinking about getting 45mm tyres. Do I need to buy inner tubes that are 42mm or 45mm?
>>
>>1978341
>>1978419
https://streamable.com/du25xo
>>
>>1978414
Bezos. Greed is a simpler motive.
>>
>>1978420
nah your tube should span that.
I have run 18-23c tubes up to 28c all the time.
butyl, of course. tpu or latex could be a different ball game.
>>1978414
amazon or your online retailer of choice that may be cheaper.
>>
>>1978420
If you can't get the right size go smaller, not bigger.
>>
>>1978423
>>1978438
Alright, tips on good tyres around 44-45mm that aren't too heavy with good grip on most surfaces
>>
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>>1978341
easiest way for me is to loosen the whole caliper where it's bolted to the frame, use pic related to pad the width of the disk, squeeze the lever using a ziptie, tighten the bolts, and then cut the ziptie and remove the tool from the disk.
>>1978414
just buy it from aliexpress or something, why pay glorified dropshippers when you can get the exact same stuff cheaper directly from china?
>>
>>1978455
gavelking
>>
>>1978406
you can always give it a try and see but i personally wouldn't, you're probably better off making your own group and inviting people your age.
>>
Is there a best inner tube I can buy that has slime or anti-puncture shit already in it? I have a new kitten and he is going wild on my bike tires. Deflated them three times already. Luckily I have a second bike to use but I want to keep them both in good condition. The tires themselves are good just the innertubes. I could go tubeless I guess, but that's a whole other can of worms and if my lil dummy is gonna keep clawing shit, it would just leak again anyway. Suggestions?
>>
>>1978461
Those don't work worth a shit and even if your tires are fine they won't be for long. Just get a squirt gun and train your cat to keep the fuck away from it.
>>
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>>1978457
>chinkshit tools
yikes and cringe
>>
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my bearing races are shot, how hard is replacing a hub with a new one on a wheel
>>
>>1978484
or can i just change the bearing race
its a deore m510 hub
>>
>>1978484
Replacing the entire wheel will be cheaper than trying to rebuild it, plus if the hub's shot the rim and spokes probably aren't going to be worth reusing.
>>
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>>1978486
its on a nice mavic 26 inch dh rim with great braking surface
>>
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>>1978372
That looks janky why not get a road/goat/wolflink that replaces the top link of the derailleur?
>>
>>1978487
Shop: ~$100 labor plus parts
Proper DIY: ~$150 tools plus parts plus you'll almost certainly fuck it up if you've never worked on wheels before
Hack DIY: ~$10 tools plus parts plus you'll 100% fuck it up
>>
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>>1978484
>>1978485
oh, you can just beat the races out of these things
>>
>use same tube for 3 years, no punctures
>dont ride bike for 2 weeks
>hear tsssssss one night as it lets all the air out
had a pin prick hole where it goes up to the valve, checked the tire and nothing. id call it defective if not for having 3 years of use
>>
>>1978471
>paying 5x the price for a tool that comes from the same exact factory
>>
>>1978488
I am not a smart man so I did not think about it. I will try with what I bought and see how it goes and can always buy that
>>
>suddenly front derailleur becomes very hard to shift mid ride
>brifter does a loud CLACK
why would it get suddenly stuck? It's not freezing outside, so cable is not frozen.
There's initial rersistance when I manually push the chain guide towards the big chainring. I guess a pivot point is stuck? I'll wash it and make it move.
I'm worried about the brifter though, I hope the internal mechanism didn't crack
>>
>>1978522
lube everything. Probably some old grease or gunk that's been building up over time.
>>
>>1978529
or you know, find documentation for your component and actually clean, inspect and service the fucking thing..
>>
>>1978522
Cable might be fraying
>>
I can't decide between Continental Contact Plus or WTB Raddler TCS Light Fast Rolling
>>
>>1978492
this
>>1978487
but take some measurements of your new hub and get some spokes. you will probably fuck up building the wheel, it's a process. you are probably not getting a good wheel for the 100 dollars you are paying for a hub, spokes, and nipples.
>>
>>1978550
toss a coin
install the tire gloriously chosen by chance
enjoy it
if you don't enjoy it, use the other choice
>>
>>1978556
I am mainly looking for wider tyres to replace my wtb nano but I don't want them to be too heavy but still decent on asphalt and gravel
>>
Been looking to add a titanium bike to my collection. Looking for something that goes fast and also can carry bags for overnight trips. How does this look?

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/bik/d/montgomery-village-2011-lynskey-cooper/7708687744.html
>>
>>1978557
gravelkings
>>
>>1978561
Which one? I want something that is wider than 40-622 so 42-622 and below 47-622
>>
>>1978550
schwalbe g-one
>>
>>1978559
no doubt a nice bike but i do not like the build on it, functionally or aesthetically and would rather buy more of a project and set it up how i prefer than:

> $900 Tune up new parts
which is included in the price.
So you're paying for shit like $80 ugly bartape and a new crankset which isn't wide enough.

the velocity rims are a bit of a neat throwback.
>>
>>1978562
slicks come in a 43
>>
>>1978566
Panaracer Gravelking Sk+ TLC Folding Tyres ordered these
>>
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>>1978500
>thinks park tool is made in china
>retarded "muh same factory" talking point
https://youtu.be/c04Fl9TvxRg?t=810
>>
>>1978568
A lot of park tool tools are made in china now.

that being said the difference in quality between a $10 cone spanner and a $3 cone spanner is pretty obvious.
These are thin tools which are easily damaged and being made of pot metal very obviously doesn't help.

Seeing as you only really need 2 sizes and once you have them, pretty much every older bike that passes through your hands can be easily improved with a hub service, it's a no-brainer to spend the still nominal amount of money nicer ones cost. Doesn't have to be park though, imo, icetoolz ones are as good.

The big mistake imo is buying the unwieldly dual sided ones or a large set with like 10 different kinds you'll never use.
>>
>>1978577
I like one of my dual sided cone wrenches. Think it's a 14/17 where the 14 is commonly used and the 17 is sometimes used for the locknut. Shimano does weird stuff(for me) and ends up with a 50/50 chance I need a different size cone wrench. Had to get a 24 or 23 recently for 15mm hubs. Think the 7410 hubs used 2 15's which was odd.
>>
>>1978567
i wud generally recommend the regular slick but you can't really go wrong with any of them desu. sk+ rr is preddy gud for a gravel tire if you ride on pavement a lot anyway.
>>
>>1978580
>17 is sometimes used for the locknut
you don't have a set of regular metric spanners?
>>
>>1978257
thanks for all the info! there are some good people on this board. that particular part was online for like $50 lol

so i bought this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/296196582063

hope it works
>>
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>>1978585
I think the nut has a raised portion that touches the dropout so you need a thin wrench. This one took two 14's which I have as a 13/14 and 14/17.

I have just had good experiences with double sided ones since you can get more sizes for cheaper, or like on my italian motorcycle I can carry a 10mm/13mm and it fits most nuts(unless they are 17's).
>>
https://www.youtube.com/@bkefrmr
Are all bike "mechanics" like this?
>spray bike down with pledge
>squirt tri-flow all over cables and chain
>twist a spoke nipple or two
"That'll be $200 for yer tune-up!"
>complains his time is only worth $20/hr
Working on a bicycle has to be the most unskilled profession. He says he refuses/hates working on anything with suspension or disc brakes because it's "too complicated". This is all a farce, right?
>>
Shill me a 32mm tire for mostly asphalt touring on a road bike.
I'll be doing a 500km tour over six days in the summer. So far I've been riding 28mm 4-seasons but wanted to go 32mm for comfymaxing.
Problem being 32-622 4-season is sold out mostly and expensive af. I don't see myself blowing 100 bucks for a pair of tires.
Are there any equally performing (good rolling resistance, good grip, moderate puncture protection) but cheaper options?
>>
>>1978609
U gay
>>
>>1978611
go huff more furniture polish
>>
>>1978612
U made that rivendell thread a little bit ago too didn't you

I can tell by how gay u sound

Tis a farce bla blah this man uses oil blah blah lol just shutup
>>
>>1978613
i did not.
he's just not doing fucking anything, charging a decent chunk of money, then bitches incessantly about it? bro gets paid for nothing and complains he doesn't make enough and isn't treated correctly by his customers. what is he expecting from working in the service industry? and offering such a low skill service at that?
>>
>>1978614
Bro stop saying all this gay shit wtf wrong with u, go ride ur bike and stop posting
>>
>>1978615
mofucka mad he got called out about being a nigger
>>
>>1978616
There u go, that better

Nigga got mad at a YouTube video and start talkin bout "uhh guys this totally farcical, like omg he gets the cable housing greasy and charges $200!!!” lmfao
>>
>>1978618
its ok bro im sorry you got fired at jiffy lube for incompetence and this was the next best thing
im sure the geriatric population of wisconsin loves you
>>
>>1978610
I enjoy a panaracer gravelking ss(slick version) in 32mm.
Seems like a great comfy tire. I weigh as much as most touring rigs(105kg not including bike or packs).

Admittedly I haven't done a gajillion miles with them, but the 100 or so have been alright.
>>
>>1978619
now u got it homeboy.. keep that up, don't let me hear u talkin.gay again after I fixed it for you
>>
>>1978620
Yeah, but he wants something cheaper. GK's are like 50-60 bucks.
>>1978610
Schwalbe marathons? Look at bicycle rolling resistance.
Good tires are worth spending the money on, unless you just do not have the money at all.
>>
>>1978624
>gk's are like 50-60 bucks
I found a couple sites with them cheaper like amazon, universal cycles, and planet cycles. Around 30-40 a tire.
Much cheaper then that and he might as well send it with chink tires+pray.
>>
>>1978625
Any cheaper and he's just going to get a heavy commuter tire with high puncture resistance. Won't be great but it'll probably be fine if he's not expecting too much.
But he says in the summer so I'm sure he can save up for some good tires by then.
>>
>>1978609
You overestimate the intelligence of the 'average' person and underestimate their willingness to throw money at problems instead of spending 5 minutes learning skills like "turn the small knob until the grinding noise goes away". Then add in that most factors correlating with bike ownership also correlate with low IQ and relative to the customer base bike mechanics actually are "skilled" to some degree.
>>
>>1978620
Gravel King SS look promising but they cost the same as 4-seasons. People seem to ramble about getting punctures with them. So I'd rather opt for 4-seasons at that price.

>>1978625
I'm stuck to German prices unfortunately

>>1978624
With Schwalbe Marathons (non Plus) I think of good puncture protection but high rolling resistance and high weight. Looked it up and they weigh twice the 4-seasons. They are cheap tho

>>1978626
yea, I'll propably set up some price alarms and wait til summer
>>
>>1978593
Hope it works for you! Post an update if you get it running again.

>that particular part was online for like $50
Replacement parts are always a nightmare when dealing with old components lel
>>
>>1978630
>German prices
So you're German? GP5ks are 38 euro on bike24. Those roll well and resist punctures. GK's are pretty puncture resistant ime, but I run them tubeless, but they're 28 euro. Paselas are 20 euro.
>>
>>1978630
>People seem to ramble about getting punctures with them
you can't shop tires by zeroing in on people who got unlucky with punctures. This just leads you down the path of boring tire purchases and occasional punctures are inherent qualities to pretty much all nice tires.

i suggest you actually don't research tire purchases at all just buy ones you think seem cool and hopefully are expensive and or discounted.
>>
>>1978632
>GP5ks are 38 euro on bike24. Those roll well and resist punctures.
They 'resist' punctures about as well as you resist a cock up your ass.
>>
>>1978641
skill issue
>>
>>1978632
>GP5ks are 38 euro on bike24.
nope

>Paselas are 20 euro
link?

>>1978636
>don't research tire purchases at all just buy ones you think seem cool
based fred approach
>>
>>1978644
wire
https://www.bike24.com/p290972.html
folding 25 euro
https://www.bike24.com/p2185514.html
38 euro gp5k
https://www.bike24.com/p2305167.html
gk slick 26 euro (i like these more than gp5k)
https://www.bike24.com/p2325607.html
>>
>>1978645
Why are the tires on bike24 half the price of any american retailer? I would order so many different sets to offset the 40 euro shipping charge if I had the money.
>>
>>1978645
thanks for the panaracer links.
I still get 46€ for the GP5k 32mm folding when I click your link. My screencap was also folding ("Faltreifen")
>>
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>>1978649
huh, that's weird. i saw the Faltreifen ones and they were more, but the standard gp5k were 38 for me.
Still, get the GK's imo
>>
>>1978621
>vocabulary of 100 words
>can only spell in internet abbreviations
you're retarded
>>
>>1978646
nta but I'm united statesian and ordered a headlight from bike24 in the winter and it arrived in the summer when I barely even use lights, there's a reason they're cheap
>>
>>1978655
A few years ago I ordered some tires when shipping was only 20 euro to the US (I think?) and delivery time was pretty reasonable desu, maybe 3 weeks or so? It wasn't bad.
>>
Is waxing the chain worth it? Do I still need to clean and lube my chain? I wanted to buy some wax for waterproofing, and I thought I could probably find some cheap pot at the thrift store so I thought I could try it maybe.
I just fucking hate cleaning my chain.
>>
>>1978530
so I did.
>take it off
>ultrasonic clean it
>dry it witha hair dryer
>relube pivot points
>give it a bit of wiggle-wiggle
>reinstall it
and that's when I noticed the L screw is way off. Too low. It didn't have enough leverage to overcome the resistance. I tightened the screw and now it's good.
weird
>>
>see theres slr, super slr and NEW super slr but they're different and then you've got slr EV..
>>
hello my /n/uggets. i'm buying an headset that comes with a 1 1/8 crown race. i need a 1 1/5, can i buy another crown race? they are all pretty much interchangeable right?
>>
>>1978699
the headset is zero stack semi integrated with sealed bearings, and i'm wondering if there are different crown races for different bearing angles. the bearings would be your average chinesium so i think 45 degrees and the headset would be an fsa but I see there are different models..
>>
>>1978693
Damn even Freeza is getting in on the Ice Technologies
>>
>>1978666
wax is not good for waterproofing. If you hate cleaning your chain then it may be good to try out, however.
The benefits are reduced wear, cleaner chain, and reduced friction.
I don't ride enough for wear to be an issue. I do training rides 99% of the time so reduced friction doesn't matter to me. Cleaner chain is cool too, but IDC.

People have been waxing chains for a century(my parents did it in the 80's). If you have cleaning your oily dirty chain try it out. Do your research.
>>1978689
Monitor it. Shit happens.
>>1978699
>>1978700
Good luck
>>
>>1978699
>i need a 1 1/5
do you mean 1.5"?
>and i'm wondering if there are different crown races for different bearing angles
yes

also, if the headset you're buying comes with a 1-1/8" crown race, i would assume the bearing is 1-1/8", in which case a 1.5" crown race wouldn't fit into the headset.
>>
>>1978609
>Working on a bicycle has to be the most unskilled profession.
bit of an exaggeration, it's not like picking fruit or factory assembly line work. you actually need to have a pretty broad knowledge of different tools and parts.
>He says he refuses/hates working on anything with suspension or disc brakes because it's "too complicated".
i agree that's retarded
>>1978627
>most factors correlating with bike ownership also correlate with low IQ
you mean in the US? most dutch people own a bike and dutch average IQ is slightly higher than that of the states.
>>1978610
you can probably go a bit wider than 32-622 if your frame allows it, you'll hardly notice the difference. for a road bike on asphalt you probably want slick tires, schwalbe kojak/one maybe?
>>
>>1978666
you have to clean it really good and then let the solvent evaporate and then dunk it in the wax.
waxing is cool in theory but when I used to do it it would wear off quickly so you have to do it a lot. but if you keep up with it maybe you don't have to clean it, just dunk it?
for rainy conditions, wet lube is recommended. dry lube is for if you are a fairweather rider or you live in the desert.
but if you like it, it's probably fine, that's just the recommendation.
>>
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This confuses the chinkshill.
>>
It’s widely known that shop monkeys are the most retarded of all ambitionless dropouts but I agree, getting mad at a YouTube video isn’t productive. Why would you even watch a video of someone trying to sell you their skills isn’t that just advertisement
>>
>>1978666
chains are too cheap to worry about prolonging their life too much. worry when you spend more than $100 worth of chains per year.
>>
>>1978735
>park tool
>good
>>
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>>1978765
>ching dong happy super bicycle tool explosion for awesome lucky speed
>good
>>
>>1978767
you wrongly assume i'm the chink shill.
>>
>>1978767
is this the next thing? did everyone get tired of tranny tranny poo in loo pajeet?
>>
what do you think of xyz cargo bikes and their design approach
>>
>>1978775
The price seems absurd to me for bikes that don't even list the full specs, use shitty brakes, and most of all don't have real fucking frames. They're just made of fucking square stock bolted together.
>>
>>1978780
yeah the point is to build yourself locally and the joints are stronger than welds so much so you don't even need triangles
>>
>>1978781
great, i hate it
>>
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Anyone make their own bike bags?
I'm trying to decide on materials for something like a rando bag. Do the really expensive ones come with say plastic internally on the bottom for stiffness, or what? I have canvas and can get some leather and strapping from the fabric shop down the street.
I'm trying to come of with something similar to pic rel. I have a good idea of how to make the fasteners and pockets, as well as a good idea of what the pattern should be at least.
i member some poster here a while back was making their own stuff

https://www.acornbags.com/collections/front-bags/products/medium-rando-bag?variant=9071568846892
here is the bag i was taking inspo from
>>
Lads,
I have a bike with a seat tube that measures 25.2mm internal.
Can this even be right, and if so, where do I get one that size? Can I just open the clamp a bit and jam in a 25.4mm?
>>
>>1978790
yeah i want to make caddarice style bag don't know how to make the saddle rails reliably though
they do have supporting materials in various places also around the part where the strap hooks to your bike
>>
>>1978797
Some bikes ran smoller seatpost sizes due to the thickness of the tube. According to sheldon brown nice bikes like the vitus 979 was around 25.0. 25.4(1inch) is a standard size too of way back.
I tend to check the spread at the seat clamp. If it's pinched at 25.2 then yours takes a 25.4. If you have junk in the tube/grease/etc I would recheck after.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes-m-z.html
>>
Anyone ever try ultradynamico tires? Kind of want to try the cava race, but it's between these and the rh naches pass extra lights. No one else seems to make a fast rolling tlr 26er. there is just a shitload of trepidation about spending almost 200 fucking dollars on tires.
>>
>>1978801
Thanks, appreciate the link.
I may have to try a few sizes at the local bike co op and bring the vernier with me.

>>1978803
They look like rebranded panaracers desu. What are you using them for? Do they need to have tread?
>>
>>1978803
kek, you have been looking for tires for what seems like weeks now.
>>
>>1978804
>They look like rebranded panaracers desu
They're probably made by panaracer, like the rh tires. Mixed gravel/pavement, I want something like the GK slick in a 26" so no, I don't need tread.
>>1978805
I CAN'T DECIDE
I WANT MY OBSTINENTELY EXPENSIVE PURCHASE TO BE VALIDATED

But yeah I've been looking and everything is so fucking mixed review-wise. Maybe I'll just stop being a little bitch a pull the trigger desu.
>>
>>1978806
>I want something like the GK slick in a 26" so no, I don't need tread.
Then get the schwalbe kojak 50mm slicks, they're cheap, are a good compound, and have relatively supple sidewalls.
>>
>>1978808
I think if that's the case, I might just get paselas between the two. Lighter, lower RR (i guess?), 28 bucks so even cheaper. Can't get the folding Kojak in a 50mm, and the folding 35mm are like $45-55.
I'll buy a set of rh tires one day, probably later this year when I get paid.
>>
This might be a stupid question but how do I get good climbing uphill? Just ride more to train my body? Riding 1*11 btw if that matters.

t.newbie
>>
>>1978814
>Just ride more to train my body
jes
>>
>>1978814
>Just ride more to train my body?
Beginner's mistake. You need to go full carbon, aero everything and most importantly shave all body hairs. Saving watts wherever possible is KEY to improving your climb.
>>
>>1978816
>shave all body hairs
shaving the gooch especially, minimal friction on the saddle is very important. why do you think all cycling bottoms are made of very slick materials?
>>
>>1978814
Riding more helps, but also accepting that going up is slower than going down. If it's a short climb then you can just increase your effort and maintain your speed but that's not sustainable. Same goes for headwinds, at some point you just need to accept that your maximum effort isn't going to change physics.

Unracers and batavophiles will never get it because they don't ride, but stuff like tires and aerodynamics make an immediate and noticeable difference in quality of life. They get upset at the idea that hills exist. Someone must be larping! Hills? NJB doesn't talk about this!

So good on you for accepting that they are a thing and that they are one of the pleasures of riding.
>>
>>1978814
Slide forward on your saddle, drop your heels a little more than usual, always have a bail out gear in case you redline or misjudge the pace of a climb early on.
Also, do lots of zone 2 riding to condition yourself and keep weight down in general, as weight is the key and inescapable factor in being able to climb well.
>>
>>1978782
that's ok not looking for pleb opinion
>>
>>1978841
>asks for opinion
>doesn't want someone's opinion that he doesn't like

fuck off then
>>
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Is changing a single pivot caliper pad from a big chunky pad to something like the shimano pad/shoe style system going to hinder performance? The ones I have are like the Tektro p475-p477. Won't the decreased depth cause it to contact the rim at a weird angle? The ones I have don't have the width nor do I have a longer bolt to add spacers. I also have some threaded kool stop v brake pads i could try, as well as some br-4600 style pads as well.
Right now I have those $1 sunlite block pads. I would try but I don't feel like taking the ultra turbo 75mm reach dual pivot brakes off because it's bed time. I just wanted to know if that would make a difference, because I really don't feel any sort of upgrade going from a shimano br-6207 to a tektro r559.
sorry if this sounds silly, im very tired.
>>
>>1978903
the cartridge pad holders don't do anything for performance, the compound you choose has some variation but the same performance as block style for any given compound.
the advantage of cartridges is you can change them quickly and you don't have to readjust anything, whereas blocks you have to do a lot of fiddly adjustments and toe-in every time you change them
>>
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>>1978903
>going to hinder performance
The thicker the pad, the more squish it has when it's being pressed against the rim. Some of your effort at the lever is always being used to deform the pad, but it's a greater amount w/ 'tall' vs 'short' pads.
Maybe there's some situation where you want that squish. But for me, on an old touring bike w/ cantis I swapped from the tall/thick pads to a thinner Koolstop one. It greatly improved the braking feel.

>cause it to contact the rim at a weird angle
With some canti types where you would have to swap out the standoff/spacer when changing pad thickness.
But a pretty typical road shoe (pic), you just tighten the cable a bit, and use the spherical washer to get the angle/rim contact you want. Though there are some cheapshit shoes/pads that don't have any kind of adjustment--just don't buy them.
>>
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>>1978809
Brudder, I mounted these up earlier today (63F in Feb!), and they feel good.
Just for tooling around town on an old mtb w/ 26" wheels. I normally don't do shit like ride down steps... but I couldn't resis.
>>
>>1978861
its not really valuable if you hate diy is it
>>
>>1978929
The only reason there’s so many oddball cargobike brands popping up with the “built/welded locally” bit is because they don’t want to tell anybody that shipping a real cargobike from a real cargobike company is +$700 on top of the (often reasonable) price of the bike itself
You want a real cargobike with a real frame design that holds up to intellectual property laws as well as more than 4 years of usage and those aren’t sold by these startup brands
>>
>>1978947
most durable bikes have always been made locally
>>
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>can't get cantis to pull evenly
>no adjustment screw on the side
>frame only has one hole for the spring
>tried bending them outward to increase tension
>still pulls unevenly
hmm, I do have a cable hangar on the headset, and it's possible that isn't fully straight I suppose, but I am having the same problem with the rear. I have the hangar set at about 90 deg but the one side will pull to contact the rim first.
what do
>>
>>1978969
see if your model has manuals online. for my 90s Shimano cantis , they make a plastic thing that hangs onto the cable to allign the cable length and angle perfectly but if you don't have that the manual has a section explaining how to do that stuff manually. I made a thing out of cardboard based on those specs to make my own hanger
>>
>>1978903
i changed them out, and put the tektro shoe/pads on them
the single pivot calipers are worse from the amount of leverage that is required to lock up the wheel, and the modulation isn't any better
i forgot how much single pivots suck to adjust
i am retarded and this was a total waste of time....
>>
BROS I NEED HELP I am worried my chain might be too short for my upcoming change on cassette. Currently using a 11-36 8speed and upgrading to a 11-46 8speed cassette and using a KMC Z8.3 NPGY chain. Can I use Shimano CN-HG40 7/8 chain to add a few extra links if needed?
>>
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>>1978919
Yeah, fuck it. I got a surprise uni grant and I'm going clipless for my road bike so it'll be nice to have something nice to cruise around town for getting groceries, etc. Too bad I am like 2mm shy of fitting a 53mm tire, AND they don't come in black for the standard casing reeee
I would have gone extralight, but I'm probably not going to run these tubeless. $20 more for these over gk sk's, so yeah. that's fine.
>>
>>1979084
the width should be the same, so yes. why not just replace the chain and keep the other one as a back-up for something else? especially if it's not too worn or anything.
>>
>>1978969
On mine they have a fixed side with a barrel end like on your brake handlebar cable. So on the other end I saw there was housing of a similar length, I matched that with new stuff, and that helped. Found I grabbed a weak spring on one side so I switched that, then I used the fixed side as is and dialed in the "adjustable" side with the cable itself(tighter led to the brake pad close to the rim).

Maybe I am retarded but I didn't worry about brake angle or anything. I would check to see if the springs feel the same, if not I would get one that matches the other or do more bending.

Sorry I don't have much to help ya. Both of my canti's are shimanos, one is a deore lx and the other is xtr from the 90's.

>>1979010
My single pivot brake has good modulation but that's due to it being stiff as a rock so I just squeeze harder from the drops. I found dual pivot to give easier braking.
Take a break, and come back tomorrow if you can.
>>
>>1979124
>My single pivot brake has good modulation but that's due to it being stiff as a rock so I just squeeze harder from the drops
i think that is the problem. i switched to ergo trp levers from the non-aero stock ones, and they are a bit harder to manipulate from the hoods for my tiny hands. plus running non aero levers i feel like forces you or makes you more apt to use the drops mainly just due to comfort, so it's not as much of an issue.
i swapped them back but accidentally screwed up the front brake threads, and changing the stud was way more difficult than it should have been. with the grub screw removed and a hex socket on the mounting stud, it stripped due to being insanely tight and just soft, i had to clamp the head in the vise to get it out. on the plus side due to the longer stud i can change and re-mount my rack strut so it's not like 1mm away from the fender.
they really did not want these calipers taken apart i guess
totally made things worse before they got better.
>>
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How many merkel-bucks is a good tire worth? I have lost so many tubes that i now want to replace my tires with thicker ones. But they all seem so expensive. Am i getting scammed? This is the price for one tire btw, i obliviously gotta buy two and i need them to withstand shit like gravel and the occasional offroad trip.
>>
>>1979146
look on bike24 or bike discount rather than on amazog
>>
>>1978815
>>1978818
>>1978827
I see. Thanks. I did my first 50km ride the day before and it was great. But I couldn't complete the ride back and had to stop at 30km and hitch a ride for the last 20km as my legs were completely jello. Even with 15-30 minute rests, I just couldn't pedal anymore.

Should I have eaten a light snack or something to get my energy up?
>>
>>1979118
My current chain is kinda new just less than a year old. Should I replace it? But the new chain won't be long enough for the new stuff or will it?
>>
any reqs for a cheap first time road/gravel bike? preference for trek, cannondale or merida due to employee discount, and space for tires over 37-622
>>1979146
€80 really isn't all that expensive for a set of good tires, it's one of the most important parts of your bike. bike discount has a marathon plus set with inner tubes for €60.
>>
>>1979150
that's the thing , 46t cog is greater circumference than 36t which means when you accidentally shift to 46 when in your big (or only) ring, current chain length will catch one tooth on the 46, it won't be able to wrap around, and your pedal stroke will tear your derailleur apart, break your hanger, or throw the der into you spokes, or all 3.

obviously you aren't supposed to use big-big but accidents happen and chain sizing is done to prevent that ever from happening.

if you have the extra links from when you sized your current chain, add the links you need and you're good. if not, you're going to have to spend $8 on a new kmc. big deal.

the standard formula is wrap the chain around big-big without putting it through the der, then add a full link to cover the threading through the pulleys but someone was arguing about that here recently and I don't want to get into it with him so just look it up on Park or Sheldon
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>>1979146
I think $30 US each is about the bare minimum for anything remotely reputable. I used to run regular Marathons (aka Green guard/bottom tier) for about that price, and my Pasela PTs are in that range. plus there's inflation, europe costs more, etc. you probably don't need what you pictured. the Marathon Plus and Supreme are for people doing transcontinental touring and like in e.g. the US southwest they have nasty goathead thorns on the road. your pic says "E" for e-bike so they add an idiot tax to e-bikers
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>>1979149
yeah man, when you're laying down kms like that you need to have a granola bar, power bar, trail mix, peanut butter crackers etc every like 25 to45km thereabouts.
bring at least 2 40oz water bottles for that and make sure you drink them . I'd go way more, personally. if it was a hot summer day, I do probably 2 bottles in like 30miles but in winter it's just half that
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Can anyone suggest a good but useful item to buy off amazon for my bike? I want to hit that free shipping limit but can't think of anything to buy
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>>1979209
m3-m5 stainless round hex head bolt, washer, and nut pack
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What's the most versatile stainless rack going to be for my setup if I have fender eyelets, canti bosses, and a crown hole? The Nitto F25 is out of stock everywhere but is exactly what I want even if it is a bit out of my price range.
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>>1979211
just take an aluminum one in silver. no one is going to know it when you post your old ass steelisreel bike photograph on /n/pybtd
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>>1979209
spare tube
bar tape
bungee cords
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>>1979211
you can buy Tubus bolt-on adapters to add mid-fork bosses and then you can get a rack that takes them if that widens your options
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>>1979301
>no one is going to know it when you post your old ass steelisreel bike photograph on /n/pybtd
lmao
i will know, anon, i will know
>>1979305
Hm, that's true. I could always get something like the Soma Porteur, but \i'm not sure if that would work on the rear fork mounts or if my panniers would fit on the lower mount. Still pretty expensive, but I mean anything stainless is going to be, unless I get one of those constructeur style racks, and add canti struts with compression hardware to act as lower pannier mounts? idk.
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>>1979209
chinese tpu tubes if they are ~$5-8 otherwise get them on aliexpress. ive had them arrive in a week
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i need to replace half of the spokes on the drive side, do i just replace a spoke, tighten until the rim is straight and then do the next one
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>>1979327
not too much experience with doing that many spokes, but i'd say just replace them one by one, just tightening them adequately and only trueing the wheel after they're all in place.
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>>1979327
lace all the spokes in and get a nipple on, tighten the nipples until the corresponding spoke feels nearly as tight as the rest of the wheel's spokes. then squeeze the shit out of all the spokes with hands around the neighboring spokes to pre stress them.
THEN you true the whole wheel. work around the wheel and stress all the spokes every once or twice around
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>>1979358
pay attention to the lacing patern, it's important. observe how the spokes cross closely on the existing spokes. a spoke will usually cross another along the hub flange, then cross the next one on the other side, and another on the opposite side of the previous before reaching the rim hole. that's a 3 cross pattern which is most common but figure out what you've got. watching the park tool video would probably be helpful
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>>1979128
It is what it is.
>>1979146
That's the average price for a decent tire. I can find stuff cheaper but you have to buy quick on ebay, or search for it, and it will generally be an older tire that isn't the "meta".
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if I currently have 2x9 tiagra shfiters, and want to change to 2x10 or 11. Can I just get the right hand 10s or 11s brifter? is there any reason to get the matching 2x left brifter? I have no problems with shifting with the current left hand shifter.
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any reason i shouldn't just cram a 26mm bar into a 25.4 stem? apart from scratching the bars, or stretching the stem far enough open that it gets damaged?
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Best products to carry extra water bottles?
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>>1979428
I have the minoura saddle bottle cage mount, sbh-300 and it's fine I suppose. I wouldn't use it offroad, but on road it is fine.
rivnuts and jb weld, if your bike is steel, to add one of those 40oz bottle cage holders to the underside of your downtube.
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>>1979187
>40oz water bottles
shit I meant 24. dunno where I got 40oz.
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>>1979428
Larger water bottle
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What makes one canti better than the other as far as breaking performance is concerned? what if I used a centerpull instead of a canti? Do they use the same mounting system? or would that just be a downgrade all arouND
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>>1979487
Centerpull brakes sometimes mount using one bolt in the center of the fork crown or on the center of the rear brake bridge, just as a sidepull brake would mount. Other centerpull brakes mount on posts like a cantilever would, but the post is in a different position. For a cantilever or v-brake, the post is below the brake track of the rim, and for a centerpull it's above. So they're not interchangeable. But cantilevers and v-brakes are. However, most cantilever brakes use short-pull brake levers, while most v-brakes use long pull, so you may have to get different levers if you switched brakes.
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>>1979497
>but the post is in a different position. For a cantilever or v-brake, the post is below the brake track of the rim, and for a centerpull it's above
ohhh, ok. i wasn't sure if the mounting system was interchangeable
>most cantilever brakes use short-pull brake levers, while most v-brakes use long pull, so you may have to get different levers if you switched brakes
yeah, i was aware of at least this much, i hadn't intended to swap to v-brakes. and if i did, i would rather one of those pull adjuster pullies as i quite like my levers and setup now.

i was really wondering if say if you swap from a dia compe 980, cyclocross style, to something with a similar cable geometry to a paul's touring brake, what happens to the brake feel and modulation? do the leverages change? obviously two products is vastly different price ranges, but i am asking from a design stand point.
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>>1979471
Mine are already 1 liter
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>>1979421
It probably won't clamp properly all round leading to creaking and gradually slipping down as you hit little bumps in the road. Would it kill you to buy another stem? It's not like it's the most expensive part you could look for.
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>>1979537
>Would it kill you to buy another stem?
Yes.
There really aren't too many 26mm stems with a 60-70mm length. The most affordable one is a Technomic, but those are insanely long and would have to be cut down. Origin8 makes cheapie ones, but then again are far too tall. The new bars would be shortening my reach by about 15-20mm, getting an 80mm stem would nullify part of the point of getting new bars, apart from going down to a 36cm width.
>bike too big
I am 5'1 with short arms, every fucking bike is too big.

The other option is using a threadless quill adapter. VO has a 31.8 quill stem, which is $90(still too tall, not the angle I want). How much am I going to be spending on a new pair of bars? The ones I have picked out are $45.
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Is a bit of fork flex normal? When holding my front wheel in place with my legs and turning the handlebars, I notice that these DNM USD8s twist a little bit too.
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>>1979557
>inverted fork with no arch
yes
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>>1979558
Okay thanks
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>>1979539
uh, maybe you could shave a little bit off the clamping surface of the bar by gripping it with like 60 grit sandpaper and spinning the bar?
maybe that's retarded, I don't know
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>>1979504
Canti brakes have adjustable MA. That's why there's so much noodling about the length of the straddle cable/where you put the yoke.
The the types (narrow, mid, wide) also play into it because of where the key bits are, relative to each other.
Because of multiple variables, most discussions get mired in the details.

I figure you've already read the Sheldon page, but also search for/check out these things:
- chapman cycles maitoy (pic is from the pdf there)
- brucey canti brakes uk

I've only used three kinds of canti, Tektro CR720, Shimano CX-70, and Dia-Compe DC988.
Maybe that progression shows me getting lost in the sauce, going from foolproof to fiddly.

But of these, I like the Dia-Compe ones the most, because I can set them up to have a very snappy feel, they come in multiple colors, and spring tension is individually adjusted (doesn't use the little holes on the canti mount).
They don't have the look of the Paul Touring cantis, but they function similarly, and it's $70 to equip a bike.
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new
>>1979652
>>1979652
>>1979652



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