Touring Edition Resources:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-helpRJ the bike guy on youtubeprevious>>2028416
>>2031441incorrectly tilted handlebars edition
>>2031446literally a pro cyclist
>>2031447he won't be a pro for long after slipping off those hoods when hitting a bump, the levers are supposed to be aligned vertically, not backwards.
Guy at my local specialized dealership told me that spindle length doesn't matter on square taper bottom brackets. It matters, right? Why would velo orange offer seven different spindle lengths if it didn't matter?
>>2031449It's not that it doesn't matter exactly but more that if it works, it works, and there is usually a fairly wide range that can work with any given setup and given that square taper cranks are usually on cheap bikes and cheap themselves it's not worth overthinking. Beyond that it's fairly complicated. I like having a narrow q-factor (pedals closer together) and so do most people so really you want to try and get it as narrow as you can. The original or mfg recommended width is usually conservatively wide. Given repeated and bad installs crank tapers can wallow out. The bottom bracket tapers, even within one 'standard' are often different sizes. So how far a crank even sits on one width can be quite random. Obviously you can't have the chainring or the crank arm hit the frame but you also can't exceed what the limit screws of the derailer will allow, and sometimes derailers can shift badly at their extreme limits, for example the spring might be worn out or the pivots a bit stiff and so the derailer won't return all the way against a wound out low limit, or, your shifters might not enjoy fighting to the end of a stiff spring. Before you pull a crank to replace a bb, you should work out how much clearance it has to the frame and how much adjustment is left in the limit screws so that you can guess at going narrower or just what available sizes might work.
>>2031449also consider that many older cranks (campy), or mismatched cranks require asymmetric spindles In a standard 68mm frame, you can get the asymmetry with a new cartridge unit, just use a 73mm mtb one and then you have 5mm of spacers that can go either side under the cup.
>>2031449There's also chainline, which depending on setup largely doesn't matter / is quite forgiving, but chainline can be optimized, and what the spec sheet says to use is not necessarily optimal
why are gravel bikes so fucking expensive, road bikes as wellit doesnt have suspension, just fancy handlebars desu
>>2031458drop bar brifters cost more to manufacture, aside from that the extra cost for road bikes and especially gravel bikes is because the consumer is apparently willing to pay more. the industy also has been hiking up the prices like crazy, even just 10 years ago entry level bikes were way cheaper.
>>2031458If you want to be cheap just buy an older hybrid, rigid mtb, or hardtail. The new ones cost what they do since they sell at that price. Road bikes are way cheaper on the used market, so if you want to try out curly bars get a vintage one.Oh, and the walmart ozark gravel bike is supposedly alright, so that's one way to get a cheaper one.>>2031449Other anon is right again.Your constraints of the spindle is too short=crank hitting frame, too long=cross chaining like a retard. Then there is standards (ISO vs JIS).After that is q-factor which is kind of a bigger issue long term with clipless. WIth flats you can deal with it fine, but really narrow q-factors are bad for big or fat people who need a wider q, and the reverse is true for narrow hipped people.
>>2031458>why are gravel bikes so fucking expensive, road bikes as wellbecause they're actually good Your frame of reference for cheap bikes, mtb, hybrid etc, those usually come out of the box with out of true wheels and wild tension, terrible alignment on the brake calipers and all kinds of other cheap fuckery because the price point demands lack of care in the factory. If you buy one from a bike shop it may be assembled by a mechanic who fixes some of these things and if you buy one from a big box store it probably just comes fucked. Drop bar bikes are aimed at people who actually ride and are usually higher quality, beyond how good you'd think they'd be on paper. That's true for higher tiers of mtbs and some entry level or hybrid bikes from fancy brands. And if you compare prices on -those- then they're kinda close to drop bar ones. You may have an idea of what specs you want but it's also worth considering that bikes are often just bad quality beyond the level of the components. >>2031463also yeah, cost of brifters, and meme tax
marin four corners 1 2025 changed from sora 3x9 to microshift sword black 2x9 with a shitty square bracket. the latter group set is compatible with a lot of shimano stuff, and so my question is, what is the best route for upgrading this gearset? some online have recommended shimano cues to do something like 46-32 crank with an 11-45 or 11-50 cassette, for instance.
>>2031489'upgrading' a groupset, especially a new one, ESPEICALLY a new one you haven't evne bought yet, ESPECIALLY ESPECIALLY to something also cheap like cues that isn't even much better, it's just completely retarded, and the best reason to do it would be to get wider gears, but the 46-29 & 11-38 stock gearing is very sensible already. I don't see why you'd want wider unless you were doing some pretty specific form of offroad touring in hills and i think you should try that first. Square taper is a small weight / stiffness penalty and on a gravel bike like that, changing it would probably not even be perceivable. As long as a cheap groupset is running smoothly, which is usually always possible, even with tourney, upgrading it is disappointing. If you want to spend money pay more for a bike with GRX off that bat. Because the big limitation of that bike isn't the gearing, it's the cable disc brakes (though spyres aren't bad) and upgrading away from that requires hydro STI levers and it'd be cheaper just to buy something higher spec straight up. If you wanted to throw money at that bike, you'd do fancy racks, tires, and then nicer wheels maybe with a dynamo hub. But i'd wait on the wheels to see if those don't hold up because if they do then they're fine.
>>2031490this is good advice, thanks. it'll be my first real bike which ive limited to a budget of 1k so im kind of gung-ho about it. the major upgrades i do plan on right away are the tires and saddle. it is nice to know that the microshift groupset is compatible with shimano, however. i wanted to gauge interest in that compatibility (whether or not it's justified).
>>2031493the stock tires and saddle are probably fine man. Id wear out the tires before changing them. you're gonna find -any- saddle uncomfortable if you aren't used to riding, until you break your ass in. Don't try to upgrade away from muscular pain. If you get benis pain then that's bad but its often a fit adjustment you need rather than a different saddle.
>>2031489i thought cues for drop bars hadn't even dropped yet? it uses it's own cable pull ratio of 1.2, so it wouldn't work with other shimano brifters
>>2031493different guy here,fwiw, I bought my first set of brifters about a year ago to put on my 2x7 roadie with a blown downtube shifter. obviously nothing top of the line is even made for 2x7 and even if it were, wouldn't make sense to put on an aluminum frame from 1989. so I somewhat arbitrarily got microshift because between them and sensah/any other cheap chinese brifters it seemed like MS had been in business the longest.so anyhow, I put them on and they're legit. I push the levers and the gears shift. not the snappiest performance but not what I personally would call laggy, either. plus I don't compete so it doesn't really matter anyway. they haven't gone out of adjustment or any problems whatsoever. I assume Sword is better quality than mine.I'm not the most demanding customer but I've ridden a lot of bikes over the years and I cannot find any fault in my MS. just werks.
>>2031496ps the entire existing drivetrain is old Shimano 105 derailleurs, Shimano cassette, and suntour cyclone crank. no problems.
>>2031493for saddles, you gotta try a lot of stuff but I wouldn't get an expensive saddle until 1) you break your ass in like he said, and 2) you get your width dialed in by trying different cheap saddles. before you know that, upgrading to an expensive saddle doesn't make any sense. this chart gives you an idea but there's different charts/everyone's different. measure sit bones by mashing ass into corrugated cardboard.
>>2031494well the bike is going to be a commuter for a short while so i wanted to invest in puncture-resistant tires with mezcals in the front and either pathfinder or gravelking in the back. anon has also shared similar sentiments in regard to the saddle >>2031498 it is more sound advice>>2031495the polish guy who made the remark got too excited>>2031496ive read similar feelings toward ms which makes me more comfortable with the stock gearset
>>2031499seems like you're overinvesting in memes and 'research', most tires do a reasonable job of puncture resistance and punctures are usually bad luck, snakebites due to low pressure, or because a tire is old. plus nice tires (including gravelkingz) are not super puncture resistant because a sturdy sidewall and a thick kevlar belt makes tires uncomfy and sluggish. I got a puncture in my gravelkangz last time i went touring lol, i don't know why you think they'd be amazingly durable. Maybe get a puncture first before you invest in puncture resistance.
>>2031500i just dont want to get a puncture on my way to work, and there is nothing wrong with researching the countless testimonials, as well as inhouse data from sites like bicyclerollingresistance, on a tire's puncture resistance. do you have experience with vee tire? also i dont care if the ride is sluggish it's not why im interested in a touring bike
>>2031501>countless testimonialsyou're gonna find someone crying about getting flats online with pretty much every nice common tire, usually due to poor install or bad luck. 'Researching' puncture resistance is just an exercise in gaslighting yourself and heading down the path of buying Marathon pluses, which are awful to ride. BRR is basically astrology for bike nerds. Take it with a grain of salt. >i dont care if the ride is sluggish it's not why im interested in a touring bikeyou wanted something with wider tires because it's 'comfortable' and decent offroad right? If you buy the tires that are super beefy then they are not comfortable or good offroad. A pure road bike with nice road 28s is nicer to ride on gravel than a touring bike with marathon plus 35s.
>>2031502how many vee tires have ridden the gdmbr?
>>2031501keeping your eye on the road several yards ahead of you and picking your line, learning to use your hips to throw the bike around sketchy shit is the way to avoid flats. any flat protection on the tire is insurance but like anon says too much is a bad thing. I rolled some normal marathons thinking I needed the insurance and I still caught a few flats. the marathon plusses and supremes are for people who have like goathead thorns where they live. the regular ones rolled just fine but anything stiffer or deader is not a trade-off I personally would make. I switched to paselas on that bike and I'm not catching any flats beyond one bad luck situation. comparitively, the ride on my gp5ks on my other bike is plush and much grippier than both of them. I caught a flat on them because I took a familiar route for granted, wasn't looking and a bottle had been broken the night before.paying attention has paid off for me moreso than flat protection, but I think a little bit is fine if it doesn't interfere with the ride quality.
>>2031503iunno man, maybe not none
>>2031502a lot of the "user error" shit is true, but that doesn't mean it's all the same
>finally snowed good and the temp wont go upi hate this part of winter. now it turns to brown salt slush mud that i don't want anywhere near my shit. i stopped riding for now
>>2031509ok
>>2031509>his rides are dictated by the weatherMTB chads win ONCE AGAIN
>>2031531who needs hills when you can get resistance via riding through thick mud......
did anyone have a fucking question?
>>2031551yeah pls respond to >>2031552I am extremely braindead, its my first bike and I dont know how the cable and the shield over it works, why did they leave a little piece of unprotected cable like that? are the frame mounting points not big enough for the shield? if thats the case what do I do? detach cable, remove last shielded part, insert new shielded part, insert last shielded part, attach everything back together?
>>2031553It's fine and that looks correct. You run exposed cable since it has no resistance in the cable liner, and you want a section near the rear derailleur so you can remove it easy, clean, lube and replace it easily.less cable liner the better imo. It's why old vintage road bikes have only a short section
is it possible to just bend/replace a derailleur hanger without the tools?, I don't want to do the trip to the bike mechanic, also my rear hydraulic brake has been spongy ever since I left the bike upside down for a week
>>2031559Yeah steel ones bend okay, aluminum.... maybe not.
>>2031500Tires are the single most important and differentiating component on any bicycle that has ever existed. If there’s ever a time to sit on your ass and research for a week, it’s with tires
>>2031559Grab an adjustable wrench and be aware that you only get a certain number of re-bends before it snaps off
>>2031559your bike has hydraulic brakes but it doesn't have a replaceable derailleur hanger? I thought they became standard around the same time.I've heard something about turning upside down fucks up hydro. in any event, if they feel spongy you'll probably have to bleed them.
>>2031565it does but I am the kind of guy that uses shit until it breaks and yes I injure myself every 3 months
>>2031568If it's an aluminum hanger just slowly bend it to where it needs to go. With steel go a little beyond and let it bounce back.
>>2031448>reddit expert™ doesnt know about aero hoods position
>>2031458just buy a mountain bike
>>2031504>>2031506ive changed my mind. ill be choosing a muirwoods just so i can chuck large ass grippy 2.35" tires on it. the idea of having an all terrain bike appeals to my soul. plus, i can get it for $650 used.
>>2031572they're great but man that is not cheapMuirwoods are US$570 -new- in NZ atm , though i prefer the older spec ones with deore triples.
>>2031568ok, go nuts, I guess.an adjustable wrench is the tried and true tool, the handle allows for good leverage and ease of moving it in tiny increments.the last time I did it, I left the derailleur on and used a jorgensen clamp: one jaw on the inner hanger surface, around the whole derailleur mount, and the other jaw on the mounting bolt. the handles gave pretty good leverage but it was really easy to see how it needed to be moved and line it up with the derailleur still on it. this was a welded steel hanger, though. I still think you should be able to bend yours, though, but I just can't speak from experience.
>>2031570jfc this is not comfortable looking, but if it's fast, it's fast.
What kind of tool is needed for this?
>>2031581Almost looks like a 5mm bolt was shoved in there to stop someone from undoing it...........I would spray it with penetrating oil, and try and pry that thing out. If it didn't work i would just cut the stem since it doesn't look like safety torx or safety hex.
>>2031581not really visible but it's gonna be a 5 or 6mm allen key. the bolt draws the wedge up and jams it in the steerer, so what you do is loosen it a little (not all the way, you want the bolt still threaded into the wedge), and then hit it to knock the wedge down.
>>2031583yeah but there's something covering the opening >>2031581that bolt takes an allen wrench probably 6mm but it looks like there's a dust cap or something over the head. should pry off somehow .
>>2031582The person undoing it is me. This is a nice set of bars that’s been on a rusted out bike locked outside for years >>2031583I tried my smallest Allen key and nothing. There’s no grooves or anything to catch on to
>>2031585I know you are undoing it, I meant someone before you jammed a hex bolt in there to stop it from walking away(imo).That's why I would just chop the stem in half, pound the quill out of the steerer and get another stem.Or pry at whatever is in the bolt for a while.Could try a drill bit but that's a fuck ton of hassle.
>>2031581ok so if that's just some janky fucky thing someone jammed and maybe glued inside the head of the quill bolt for some retarded reason then if you can get it to turn you can get it out. It might be possible with some needlenose pliers. Otherwise, cut a slot in the head of it with an angle grinder. Or, the very end of a bare hacksaw blade on an angle with 2 cuts. Then you can turn it and break it loose with a scrap chisel or flathead.
>>2031585it looks like a nut that the previous owner has glued into the stem bolt so nobody could steal the stem/bars/shifters by loosening one bolt while it was locked up.if I'm right, the inside of the hole is threaded. try straightening a paperclip, sticking it down there, and pulling the end along the inside, if you feel ridges that's threads. you can buy super glue solvent, pour it down the hole and edges, thread a bolt into the hole, and yank it with pliers.at least, I hope so. that's what I would do. even if it's not threaded, put solvent in there, stick like a drill bit or something the size of the hole and rock it back and forth to loosen the glue.if not, the destructive methods anons said is your only options.
I’ve only ridden rim brake steel bikes and I’m looking to rent while abroad. I’ve got an option of a Cannondale Synapse or Super Six Evo. Would I find a modern endurance bike “boring” to ride coming from vintage geometry? It will be social riding with a club so it probably makes sense. Another bonus with the Synapse is it has mechanical Ultegra rather than Di2. But I also feels like an opportunity to ride a modern race bike with decent wheels (the Synapse has Fulcrums).
>>2031602It won't be "boring" but it'll lack "character," but modern bikes are nice so it'll still be fun, especially in your context of a club ride, it's the right tool for the job.
>>2031581Looks like a security screw sorry Jamal
I'm a marathon runner and I'm just starting in the cycling world. This weekend, if the weather is good, I'll take a train to a village about 50km from where I live and I'll cycle back to my town from there (I live in Europe).I've never done rides like this, so what should I take with me in terms of maintenance? Later I'll go to the bike shop and I'm thinking about getting:- Tyre repair spray can (idk how good those are, but they look very handy to use instead of a puncture repair kit)- A pair of those plastic things to take out the outer tire if necessary- Mini hand pump - Spare inner tube- Oil spray (maybe not to take with me, but to lubricate before I go)What do you guys think about this list? Should I worry about anything else?
>>2031624you should take a multitool with 4 / 5 mm allen keys and every other major fastener on your bike so that if something slips, a cable snaps, or you crash and your steerer rotates (as it should) then you can fix it. tyre repair spray is nothing don't get thatyes tire levers, pump and tube, get a glueless patch kit too, those are small and easy to use don't get 'oil spray', get chain lube if your chain is loud otherwise don't worry about it but yeah you should have chain lube, and a tub of grease but get that from an autoparts store.
>>2031489Get the right drivetrain in the first place. >>2031494>>2031498Saddle is VERY personal. That one is fine to change, as soon as you figure which one you should use.>>2031501Consider sealant. Also remember that tire conditions vary from place to place. Action packed trip to detroit, vs Southwest desert goatheads, vs french pastoral pave and cobbles. You probably don't need to go any more durable than basic training tires, unless your commute is in the Gaza strip or New Jersey.
>>2031573it is 28% off retail price here in the states and it also comes with the padded wolf tooth grips and aluminum pedals. it seems like a really good bike for the price relative to what is on the market, in particular the bigly tire clearance.>>2031626the four corners 1 doesn't come with tubeless compatible rims. neither does muirwoods.
>>2031627https://store.marinbikes.com/products/marin-alloy-mtb-rims-27-5-or-29-32h>Tubeless compatible
Why do bike riders mostly seem to be either peak CONSOOMers who think a bike is antique if it's over 2 years old, or hobos who do shit like reuse cable housing and can't afford tools that cost like $7?Damn near everyone is either a Fred or a crackhead.
>>2031629don't be defensive just because you're a shit mechanic I bet i have more nice tools than you.
>>2031624you better get your fit sorted out before you go, and bring the allen wrenches for seat post frame clamp and saddle clamp, all your stem bolts, and the brifter clamp bolts; on your first long ride you will definitely feel what needs to be adjusted. realistically they are 4,5, & 6 mm but check.have you done any fitting yet at all? the stem height will be the hardest to do on a ride since you need to add/remove spacers. (unless you have an old bike with a quill stem.) if you're new you probably want it high-ish but I'd play around with it (and all aspects of fit) by riding circles around my neighborhood trying it high, low, and medium so you aren't just guessing.if you don't know what your correct saddle height is you NEED to get it before you do 50k. also have the saddle level and centered in the clamp and move it only micro adjustments if you're getting e.g.wrist pain. do NOT use the saddle clamp to adjust your reach. adjust reach by buying a different length stem. many stems can be flipped which effectively makes them a different reach but also affects stack (height) so you also have to play with the spacers.there's a lot of fit advice, too much to type but we can narrow it down with your feedback and questions.
Do threadless headsets always come loose especially if you use the front brakes? Or do I need to replace them and the fork race?
>>2031651not him but are there even races on threadless? I thought everything was cartridge bearings.
>>2031602Pick the one with the better paintjob.Both will be a new experience so you can't lose.>>2031611good call. Never seen that before.>>2031624Allen/hex tools to adjust parts on your bike as you notice (seat seems low, handlebars seem high, x is loosening).Chain breaker is always important.Enough water and food. bonking running low on energy/carbs is bad.>>2031629I can afford 100 dollar tools AND reuse cable housings that are in decent shape>>2031651No your shit is loose. Go tighter on the top bolt before you clamp the stem on. If you run a carbon steerer figure it out yourself.
>>2031651>>2031652>>2031653Woops, meant threaded headset.
>>2031655If it's a threaded headset with loose balls you generally have to do one adjustment after riding it a bit. Remember you are using the first ring to preload, and the second to lock it down. So if you don't have enough preload/grease leaks out then you have to tighten it again.I find a little tighter is better then looser since loose and you get clunk,clunk feelings going over road bumps.
>>2031655is it a new bike? you can just tighten the adjustment.if it's an old bike, especially a used bike, the play over the years can have fucked the bearings. but not necessarily.you gotta open it up and check the bearings, races and grease. even if they're ok and just need a tighter adjustment, you should be prepared to clean and put fresh grease on every time you pull any bearing assembly apart.
Anyone have one of those bike trainers from Wahoo? I haven't ridden in months, I just got burned out, but now the urge to ride has come back. It's consistently below 32F outside and I aint tryin to ride in that shit, I've ridden in cold weather before and it's miserable even with the proper gear and I don't want to eat shit on ice. I was considering getting a trainer and maybe Zwift and seeing how it goes but that's a lot of money to drop on something to find out it's shit. Pic is probably the model I would get, with the mat. If I'm going to go the trainer route I'll go all in.
>>2031679canyon owners need not apply
>>2031680wdym? I own an Aeroad.
>>2031679>burned outtry making it fun like connecting to to gta5. i know you can use mods like lspdf and act as a bicycle cop and its pretty fun, but if you actually stop that kinda impedes training, so you can just ride around the map too https://www.gtbikev.com/
>>2031685>linking it to gta5lmao, this is cool.
>>2031652>not him but are there even races on threadless? I thought everything was cartridge bearings.nah mate shitloads of threadless headsets use cup and cone bearingstheres not really much difference between a threadless and threaded headset. The bottom bit is identical. And some threaded headsets are cartridge.
say you want to change your chain at .5% wornwould you change it when the first segment of 6 links is >.5% worn or when the total chain length is >.5% longer/wornlike when I measure on my bike, some segments are fine, some are stretched.
>>2031693If some are stretched change it. That's why you check it in multiple places.
>>2031681https://www.google.com/search?q=canyon+turbo+trainers+void+warranty
>>2031679zwift + indoor trainer does best with people who can endure a lot more misery than riding outside in shit sub-freezing conditions because it's actually just a lot worse. I don't rec spending a lot of money on it as your first try. best option is to see how often and for how long long you can ride a shitty trainer at a fitness place. If you can go ride one of those for 45 mins, 3-5 times per week, for 6-8 months then you can benefit from a high quality zwift setup
>>2031698nta but how is it worse? because it's tedious or there's a comfort issue?
>>2031629I once drilled a headset spacer out of wood and coloured it black with a marker because I didn't want to pay 11$ + shipping while I looked for a junkyard bike to strip extra spare parts off of
>>2031693sometimes i reckon you should change it just to have a clean chain and sometimes situationally it makes sense to never change it
>>2031570The ultraendurance touring world isn’t ready for my TT stance
>>2031653>she didn’t buy the 100ft spools of housing when they were 70% off
>>2031698>fitness placeI got into cycling specifically so I could be outdoors, exercise and not have to interact with people or have them look at me (I'm one ugly MF). Going to a "fitness place" to test shit out is an absolute resounding no. I'll drop the dosh on a nice set up and if I don't like it it'll sit in the closet then I'll throw it away when I move I really don't care, I absolutely refuse to interact with people if I don't have to. I already have a really nice road bike (Canyon Aeroad CF SL 8.0 DI2 Disc) and 1000s in cycling gear so I doubt it would be miserable. I hate the cold which is why I've been in the south for the past decade BUT work has brought me up north and you got me fucked up if you think I'm gonna go out in 30 below weather. I've biked a few times in that cold and it's fucking miserable (for me). I've also used in door stationary bikes and while they were shit I can imagine a dedicated trainer would be better. I plan to use Zwift on one of my PC monitors and put a fan on myself. I haven't bought anything yet but the urge to bike is hitting me strong even though I've been off the bike for a few months. I'm going to give it a few more days thought then decide what I want to do. I got taxes and a nice work bonus coming so I could easily have everything soon and it would get used every winter instead of losing all that fitness I worked so hard for (which is killing me more and more everyday) I guess I'll see what I want to do. I've been cycling for almost 10 years now and every 2 years or so I'll burn out, take a few months off and come back at it stronger than ever it just sucks now because I can't just hop on and go when it's 15F outside.
>>2031501>i just dont want to get a puncture on my way to work, and there is nothing wrong with researching the countless testimonials, as well as inhouse data from sites like bicyclerollingresistance, on a tire's puncture resistance. do you have experience with vee tire? also i dont care if the ride is sluggish it's not why im interested in a touring bikepeople on here hate them, but if you want good puncture resistance road bike tires, get gatorskins. i only use those and i have incredible puncture protection with them. sure i get the rare puncture, but my current gatorskin tires i installed january 1, 2023. im at over 6,000 miles on them in the two years since install and they still hold up. i would say i get a flat in them maybe every 1,000-1,500 miles
How do you remove a bolt that has a ripped profile? Basically no tool can grab on it and solder wont stick. The damn thing made my gearing unusable. Also that bike will be sold anyways as it does not fit me. What sort of bike am i looking for as a 190cm tall man that does not want to bend my spine like a corner to grab the handlebars. The handlebars and the seat are at the same time and its uncomfortable. The seat is as high as possible and my legs still cannot do a full stroke.
>>2031752>The handlebars and the seat are at the same timeSame hight.
>>2031752>Basically no tool can grab on itthere probably is some type of method and tool for this that most people have never heard of. I'd take the bike to an auto mechanic shop that gets lots of business and show it to them.>190cmyou're my height. I buy used and both my frames are undersized, a 60cm and a 62 cm, but with them I can use a modern long seatpost to get it right. however, I prefer the handlebars dropped a bit from saddle height. the 62 I can get my fit with the stock stem, the 60 I had to shell out for a nitto technomic to get my fit.there are vintage models that were made as large as 65cm. I believe 65 would be correct for us but I just bought the biggest I found at the time and made it work. kinda dumb but my fit is good after lots of work. when searching, look for pics with notably long headtubes and if the listing doesn't say ask the seller to measure and teach them how.for new geometry frames, an XL frame ought to be right, I don't have experience there but I know they are made.
>>2031758>modern long seatpostas in, any ordinary modern seatpost is much longer than the ones that came stock on my old bikes. I just bought cheap aluminum ones off ali.
>>2031752What kind of bolt are you talking about? Can you make a cut with a saw and use a flat headed screwdriver to remove it? There’s always the option of drilling it out?
Im considering just raising the handlebars. The bike is otherwise good, has hydraulic breaks and stuff. Other than the size the gearing sometimes does not engage and the paddles(picrel) go through with no resistance. If i can fix those two issues i think its the best bike i can currently have. Was too optimistic about the bike market here.> I'd take the bike to an auto mechanic shop that gets lots of business and show it to them.I think that's the only option i have. You could take apart the whole assembly and have a easier time getting it out of there, which is probably what a bike mechanic would do, but a properly equipped shop could probably get it out with little effort.>>2031763>What kind of bolt are you talking about?A short M5 bolt that holds the shifting wire thing in place. It snapped on me and i had to replace it. Lost the original bolt and used another fitting one, that one broke.>Can you make a cut with a saw and use a flat headed screwdriver to remove it?Don't think so. The mechanism hides the bolt in a way where only a driver can get to it. Drilling it out is also unlikely as the mechanism is springy and bends around. It would only make it worse.
>>2031752>How do you remove a bolt that has a ripped profile?...torx?
>>2031679used trainers are super super cheap in many markets, particularly if you're going wheel-on. braked-flywheel spin bikes are often available free if you look, but storage is trickier.>>2031711gator hardshells are srsly just fine>>2031441holy fucking based. i'n surprised those seatstays held up to clamping. actually wtf even is that rack. I didn't think it was a tailfin but it looks like he's got it on the thru axle somehow?
>>2031812It’s an oldmanmountain rack and it is bolted to a special axle they sell with it, they’ve actually been doing the tailfin thing for slightly longer than tailfin has
>>2031769Can you force a torx in there? Maybe epoxy it into place and wait a week for it to cure?
>>2031798>>2031836>torxdon't have any.But i ordered some "metal welding" epoxy yesterday that should do the trick.
>ride like 100km on my mtb (my first bike)>muddy so like half is on road>already want a gravel bikeb-bros....pic rel is a Ridley X-Bow Allroad and is under 300 euros
>>2031752Try placing a bit of heat shrink, electrical tape, or some other soft semi-rubbery material between the driver bit and the bolt head. This should suffice for most stripped bolts that we run in to in cycling.
>>2031752>>2031861
>>2031853uhh thats a cycloross bike achtully
Is chicago bad for buying cool bikes or why am I only finding specialized stores and neighborhood commuter clunkers and ebike crap
>>2031890There got to be an indie dealer out in the burbs or wrigleyville. Search the orbea website and the pinarello website and the cervelo website to see who sells those brands.They are high end and don't demand exclusivity from dealers. Any shop that carries one of those will be good.
>>2031752ezi-out https://www.totaltools.com.au/6816-sutton-no-1-no-6-screw-extractor-set-easy-out-6pc-m603s15a>>2031831nicewould very much like to take muh roadie out bikepacking but yeah tailfin prices are a no go from me dog
for 35mm tire32mm external / 28mm internal rimsor28mm external / 23mm internal rims?
>>2031922the former
I'm trying to true my 26" rim brake wheels. While the rim seems to be getting true, the wheels don't seem to be spinning evenly. It's as if the tyre wasn't sitting on the bead evenly. Can that really be a thing and do I need to correct it?
>>2031958You should remove the tire so that you can adjust up and down trueness, it also makes the whole thing visually easier. also yeah, bead not seating correctly on the hook of a rim is very common. It's because the tire is out of spec, or, the rim is damaged, or just bad install or just bad luck. You can usually fix just by installing it again carefully. It's possible to muscle the bead onto the hook. If that doesn't work then get some hot water + dish soap and soap up the bead. Also inflating it above to / above the rec pressure can get it to pop on.
>>2031958>>2031977I’ve had this recently with 700c vintage wheels. The wheel is true and the hubs spin great but I can’t get the tyres to sit right. I replaced the rim trape and went round with a scalpel (thinking that would matter somehow), tried wired/folding and 23mm/25mm. The only thing (in combination with the others) was using a 25-32mm inner tube, soapy water and not using a tyre lever. Now the variation is down to 2mm.
>>2031958if the rim is true you're good. you can reseat the tire, but unless it's so crooked that it's affecting your riding experience i wouldn't bother.
>>2031980Why no tyre lever?
>>2031991I’m using Mavic CXP30s with a 14mm inner so I’m on the limit with a 25mm tyre. It’s easier to keep the tube on the inside of the tyre if pushing by hand. A lever can sometimes pinch it.
hey guys, can you guys simplify the whole "bike geometry" as best as possible? I simply just don't understand it.I bought my first bike (cheap china bike) and I enjoy it a bit so far. but I always feel like something is off/could be better with adjustment when I ride itthis is the bike
>>2032004Helping someone you can't see, who doesn't know the words, through words alone, is not going to work very well. Try to do your best at getting used to new words and reading about bike stuff so that others can help you, because "off" doesn't mean anything actionable to anyone
>>2032004Ride bike take note of geometry and purposeride more bikes and take not of geo+purposeDecide what you want to tryride more bikeOh I like (x) geo and bike, then figure out if it's the geo, material, or something else.Bullshitting about numbers without trying out the bikes won't get you anywhere. You need to experience it, and that should only be done when it makes sense.So just ride your bike and don't worry about it. You can adjust things on the bike right now to see how that impacts your riding as well.>>2031958As others said remove the tire+tube, true wheel, ride, and see how it is.Some vertical and side to side is NBD if it's not touching the frame anywhere.>>203192228mm internal is the biggest I would go, and I would think towards larger tires in the future. A 23mm internal would probably be fine down to 28mm tire.If you run high pressure smaller internals are fine, they just lead to a smaller overall diameter of said tire.
why is it so hard to pedal standing up (not sitting on the seat)? its so awkardam I missing something? am I retarded? mtb and 220lb
>>2032012be 60kg and it'll be easier, also you probably just don't think you're balanced enough when 'swinging' the bike to pedal while standing, if you're climbing up a hill its just a matter of body weight in my opinion
>>2032015I have ran quite a bit (probly have a 100 5k), and I dont get the physics, why does pedalling standing on straight ground it feel 3 times as hard as running uphill wtf
>>2032017my only other advice other than adding drop bars if you don't have them is to learn to maintain a cadence on lower gear and ramping, how I think of it is relaxing your leg on the upstroke and hitting the resistance wall on your downstroke
any recommendations for bike computers that are basically just a secondary screen for your phone? i just want to be able to use my phone's navigation and such without putting the phone directly on the bike and safely keeping it in my pocket/bags instead. the only thing that seems to come close is the beeline velo 2, but it's a bit overpriced and gimmicky.
>>2032017I am the same weight as you, but with a weightlifting and cycling background. I stand great on bikes with rigid front forks, and road tires. The key is I get a medium gear and "bounce" by using my calves. This is for a medium to easy slope/hill.For a serious hill or one I can't shift into a lower gear I swing the bike side to side and "stomp" down using my hips and quads. I can get some decent pec,bicep, and lat activation this way but can't go long before my heart rate gets too high.That's really the issue with heavier riders standing. Go too hard and your heart rate gets way too high. Go too easy on the gear and you aren't going anywhere.As the other anon said you want no force/resistance on the upstroke and a big smash when going down.
>>2032005>>2032006thanks for the advice. I went to the bike store to try out a few models. they don't allow test ride so I just sit and try to feel the bike. some bike despite having same material (alu 6061) and identical specs actually have a very drastic and different feeling in comparison to my bike? there's a bike 3x the price of my bike ($400) and not having much expensive components specified but it just feels super robust, super safe to sit on while my bike feels clumsy. what factor can contribute to this feeling, bros?
I actually found and bought a deerhead RD. Why are these things always scuffed up? How do I go about restoring the iconic logo (paint, prep, etc.)?
explain why the cables in the lower image are better without using slurs or insults
>>2032047More aero.Also the cables can get used to alter the profile of the handlebars and making it more comfortable.Oh and less chances to get caught up somewhere.Looks cooler too
>>2032047longer housing with more bends in it creates more friction. this affects the shifting, although with modern housing the friction is a lot less. but may as well optimize it.the ones in your pic look like they could snag something pretty easily.
>>2032047if you crash its less likely the sheath would get damaged
>>2032047they're orange!
>>2031861>>2031863i tried and it did not work.same for epoxy. Gotta bite the bullet and drill the thing out. Lets hope the plastic assembly survives this.
>>2032068You could also try to cut in a slot with a dremel and use a flathead to screw it out.You could damage the part around it but oh well.
>>2032070cutting a slot was already suggested. A dremel sounds like it would fit but i don't have one. The screw is in a plastic part and i would like to put as little stress on it as possible but im out of options and i have a better bike that i could use in backup. Just gotta fix that one too...
>>2032047The only inconvenience is if you want to run a bar bag which you don’t need 99% of the time.
>>2032071there are screw extractorsthere is welding a little bolt to itthere is spraying shit on it and leaving it overnightthe fucking rubber band trick that was suggested, hahahaif we are talking about a simple bolt, lets say 10mmyou just weld another 10mm bolt to the head of the other boltif its a head with internal hex, you could hammer the hex bit insideseeing as you are extremely inept, I dont see how you will drill it out without damaging the thread
>>2032077and yeah, most hardware is an alloy to resist rust, so you must use specific solder...if u gonna drill it out, make sure you are as center as possible, so you can tap it later if needed, but even if you fuck it, you can just go a size larger (from M10 to M12 for example) heliocoil n shit is also a thing
>>2032053i dont think the housing is much shorter its just under tape and the bends are tighter
>>2032083eh, if you don't notice a performance difference then you can make your cables look like a mental patient set them up I guess. I'd still worry they'd flop around like that and it would be worth it to me that they looked nice. my microshift don't route under the bar tape, so with the housing just long enough to turn the bars I get the shortest routing that way. so, not all bent up under the tape, and but not all long and twisting every which way, either. your picture didn't show this middle ground option.
>>2032045They are ancient and came on offroad bikes... which get scratched up.
>>2032045actually post it mani have one of those, they're pretty cool, i like the road stuff from that era too. reality is though that slightly newer indexed stuff, like the XT II or tricolour mechs are common and work better and usually look better. You're gonna want a pretty fancy (slack) vintage frame to put that on and a TA triple or something else fancy like that.
its 40° fahrenheit, windy as fuck and a little bit rainy outsidewhat the FUCK do i weari was looking around and the north face windbreaker jackets look good but theyre way too expensiveis there some cheaper shit i can buy?
>>2031685>https://www.gtbikev.com/I was already looking into a smart trainer but now I might be sold
>>2031441nice semen wheels
>>2032179i only got to ride one of these myself briefly but it was neat. https://youtu.be/Bl17P_mpHI0
>running 23mm tires>decide to go 25mm>check at LBS if it has clearance>it does>install new continental 25mm tires>1-1.5mm tire clearance on seat tubeIs this too close for comfort?
>>2032204no , tite gapz is based, you only need a playing card gap thereI would worry on carbon where rub damage can write off a frame
>>2032204How flexy is your frame?
>>2032204So besides the obvious "what if it slices my seat tube open" (bigger risk if crabon), the other thing that tire rub can cause, which is more fun than a barrel of monkeys, is explosive blowouts when it overheats on you. It's more likely with sidewall rubbing on chainstays, because that's more likely to go unnnoticed but it can probably happen with seat tubes too.I say do it, what's the worst that can happen? You die? Frames that meet modern expectations for quality of life are for buyfag freds. Also shit that works makes you weak or something and that's liberal or so I'm told.
>>2032153anything water/windproof with pit zips will do. north face is not bad but you're paying for the logo.>>2032204no, if the wheel spins freely and doesn't rub anywhere you're fine. if the frame flexes so much it hits the tire you'll hear/feel it.
>>2032204on the rear wheel I'm not concerned as much as the front - regardless if you're reading a tire with any tread at all (mixed surface/gravel type stuff) then there's actual potential to jam the wheel up with an embedded piece of debris (stone, branch). With slicks and road riding (which I have to assume is the case with 25mm) you'll be fine.As the another anon was saying, if you have a frame that isn't extremely stiff and/or you pump out big watts on the climbs then there is a potential for chain stay rub. It happens to me on my alloy frame running 23mm gp5ks on climbs if the wheels are even a little bit out of true or aren't seated perfectly in the dropouts.
>>2032204As others said, just ride it. If you hear it when you stand you can make the choice whether you keep it or not.I have run a similar clearance on the brakes and I got too much crap rubbing against it in wet weather rides, so I went smaller.
>>2032023Smartwatch perhaps
>Shimano CUES drop bar groupset arrives>costs $900https://bikepacking.com/news/shimano-drop-bar-cues/wtf?
>>2032403>600 for the brakes and shifters>100 for the fuckHUEG cassetteThis is why 1x is a memeI see the 2x variant has the FD cost to offset the cheaper cassette.Still. Hopefully shimano essa is like 600usd and 400 or so on ebay.Doesn't matter to me either way, I will keep buying/riding used bikes for 100usd that just work.
>>2032403U6000 is the deore/tiagra/grx400 equivalent The 8/9-speed will be cheaper and prices will drop when OEMs start using it
I just bought an ATB which has a 126mm hub in the rear and my 2 other bikes have 135mm. Sheldon Brown mentions that 130mm was used on mountain bikes and I've seen some dude on YT cold setting his frame to 130. How common was 130mm hub spacing in the rear on mountain bikes?
>>2032426reasonably common yeah, i've had a few deore LX hubs that are 130. Going 126 to 130 you can usually just pull the frame open on wheel installs, you don't need to permanently bend it
>>2032360gay>>2032405that's for 11 speed, the 9 speed cues and 8 speed essa should be a lot cheaper, or at least come specced on cheap bikes
Occasionally smoking cigars will not impair my lungs for climbing right?
>>2032468nicotine itself hardens your arteries and increases recovery time, it's not just the lungs you should be worried about when nicotine gets absorbed orally when smoking cigars
>>2032236ended up buying a fleece jacket from columbiano pit zips but i dont really care about sweating
>30 year old out of shape boomer>commuter with rear rack and fenders>80% pavement 20% dirt/gravel>70% flat 30% hills>500 usd budget, ideally usedwtf kind of bike do I even want? flat bar hybrid? cheap gravel bike with drops?I want something that can do everything rn even if it isn't ideal for it. I don't mind getting more specialized bikes later if I ever feel the need to.
>>2032596Fellow millenial, look for a hybrid or rigid mountain bike.Cheap gravel bikes aren't super common. You could look at an older CX bike, I have one and those are pretty awesome.If you are okay with flat bars then a hybrid, or rigid mountain bike would do what you want as well.It really depends on how much "offroading" we are talking. More serious it is the more you want flat bars, wide tires, and lower gears. Less serious and you can err towards a cx bike, or even a road bike.Also, post your local used listings, height, and how out of shape you are(we talking like out of breath going up stairs?)Since the biggest issue with going used is if you can wrench, and what size the bike is.Oh, and I have heard okay things about walmart's ozark trail gravel bike. So don't forget about something like that too.
>>2032596whatever you do, do NOT get anything with cable disc brakes. there's a ton of those on the market for cheap for a reason, they are shit. and don't listen to anyone saying oh but you haven't used GOOD cable dicks and you just suck at mechanics, you just need to do this absurdly complicated adjustment process every 200 miles and then you can have a brake that works almost as well as a badly adjusted cheap rim brake bike except with 10x the effort and 4x the cost
>>2032596you're basically describing my bike, except there's barely any flat here.I spent just under $200 for a used lugged road bike with really nice steel in my size, then spent around $300 for VO fenders, rear rack, swept bar and levers, wheel stabilizer and smaller bcd crank and long cage deraill/ big freewheel to deal with all the hills. even on flats, the 80s bikes had fuckhuge 144bcd cranks for racing that nobody including racers use anymore.then I bought a top of the line front rack for $120 that would put me overbudget for you but I haul $100 of groceries on it all the time so I needed the expensive weight rating.I didn't change any one thing at first, it was all as I noticed things didn't work for me. had never used anything other than stock gears until this bike, but I understood they could go lower since I started with mtb. never changed anything on a drivetrain except chain before. since you're on mostly flats old stock gears may work.an old rigid mtb could work fine I think. hybrid, too, but that term can also be a normie trap for shit bikes but there are good hybrids.I don't think you can buy new with your budget. good bikes pretty much start around 7 or 6 on sale and racks and fenders are going to add over $100 but probably closer to 2.
>>2032665pic of bike
>>2032666>>2032665shit forgot to mention if you go for old roadie you need one that has clearance for 32mm wide tires. you'll want that width on dirt and gravel trails. pic loves light offroad.look for tourer road bikes, sport tourers, or in my bike's case, it's the second option in a product line of 5 options, the higer tier ones have sportier builds and narrow tire clearance. mine is more budget and has wide clearance. the Japanese bikes from that era tended towards sport tourer style even if they don't say that in the catalog, which is how my bike was . if you can find OEM specs online, the stock tires are listed and you can usually go one size up (or more) which is also true of my bike.an old rigid mtb will just werk but you're going to want to replace the knobbies with slick tires
>go for a ride after work yesterday>reach muddy section>"fuck it, full send">pedal slips midway>almost eat shit>huge bruise on inner thigh and near kneewill buying one of those fancy pedals with bolts sticking out help? or is it just a skill issue (I dropped the pedals around 3 times that run)? I am cycling with cheap soccer shoes with wide and short spikes
>>2032360not quite what i'm looking for, unless you mean using the face of the watch as a display, mounting it to the bike? issue is that only the expensive ones seem to support navigation.>>2032675>will buying one of those fancy pedals with bolts sticking out help?as opposed to flat pedals without pins? absolutely. they're not that fancy or expensive either.>>2032675>cycling with cheap soccer(sic) shoes with wide and short spikesthe nubs on football shoes are for grip in dirt and mud, they will have terrible grip on pedals. wear normal shoes for cycling.
so I'm looking for a simple 2x front setup but I'm going to run 44/38 instead of 42/34 anyone know if it's going to work?
>>2032637microshift rent free lmao
>>2032708I don't know what that means, sorry. what does microshit have to do with my post and what is the rent free part
>>2032680I don't "know", but it should work.With a shorter ratio/difference like that you want a more old school front derailleur where it has a more smooth chain guide.Generally front derailleurs are adaptable as long as you get the pull ratio right, and elevation.>>2032675It's worth it. Even just in the rain it's nice, but especially in mud or wet off roading.
Can you pair a 9 speed shifter with an 8 speed/friction rear derailleur as long as you stay within its capacity?
>>2032727As long as the shifter pull matches the derailleur and speed count.You can easily run whatever derailleur and whatever cassette/freewheel if it's friction, but once you go to indexed shifting you need a somewhat correct pull for all 3.Otherwise you get sections of the cassette/freewheel that aren't aligned right and it ticks/jumps.
>>2032680You could make this work in a friction shifting setup if you didn't mind the jump to the larger ring being slow, but if you want indexing to work you need to stick with the range specified.>>2032727no, the gap between cogs is different between 8 and 9 speed cassettes, so you won't be able to index this>>2032403That's just the list price. Everyone knows the discounters will sell it for less. And Shimano can't set the price too low, or it will cheapen the perceived value of the bikes the new parts come on.
>>2032637retard alert. get BB7s, TRPs, or if you want to be fancy, some Pauls or Growtacs. if you can't get any of those brakes to work better than a nice rim brake, you're an idiot.
>>2032727there might be a hack to get it to work indexed, something to do with cable routing at the derailleur - i remember reading about that on the sheldon brown site.friction shifting is obviously no problem at all, but you're mentioning a 9 speed shifter so you might not have that option (?)
>>2032730>>2032731>>2032733I see. I was thinking of getting the jtek shiftmate to solve the cable pull ratio problem but I don't want the extra 1 dead shift from the shifter. I was thinking of just mixing 9 speed cassette + 8 speed RD + 9 speed shifter.
>>2032599thanks I think you're right to look for an old cx or endurance bike or something. I kind of wanted drops so mtbs are out of the question since conversions apparently aren't worth it and alt bars are just an extra expense.I don't really mean any serious dedicated offroading, mostly just quick cuts through he powerlines/woods since there's a lot of those here.I'd kill myself before I let another man fix my bike desu.>>2032637I'll keep it in mind.>>2032665>>2032666>>2032667nice that's more or less what I'm going for. I'm hoping to find something that can fit 35-40mm tires with permanent fenders (I live in the pnw)
>>2032723>>2032731yeah it is a friction shift setup otherwise I wouldn't bother with this odd combination
>>2032596You could probably find a decent hardtail for that money don't listen to the retrogrouch crabs trying to keep you in the bucket
any advice on choosing which handlebars to use to switch from gravel to road ones? I barely use the drops on the bike and they're too wide for me
>>2032732see >don't listen to anyone saying oh but you haven't used GOOD cable dicks and you just suck at mechanics, you just need to do this absurdly complicated adjustment process every 200 miles and then you can have a brake that works almost as well as a badly adjusted cheap rim brake bike except with 10x the effort and 4x the costunironically rec'd klampers lol
>>2032767whatever you want. Measure your shoulders properly, or just get a normal size.I can happily run 38cm up to 44cm+.
>>2032767generally road bars are wider and deeper than gravel, if you're already not using the drops on gravel bars going to road is just going to make it worse
>>2032780You're half right that "gravel" bars usually have shallower drops, but they're often wider and feature more flair. Just like with bars on a mountain bike, more width means more stability when riding technical terrain.>>2032767Previous anon who mentioned matching your shoulder width was on the right track. Pull a tape measure between your hands and see what the length comes to when your arms are parallel, that's the width you'll find most comfortable. Go narrower than that if you want to get more aero on the bike. Only other thing I'd add is to look for bars that are described as "compact" since that's the term usually applied to bars with less drop.
>>2032784yeah but the flare makes them wider in the drops, at the hoods the road bar will be wider than the gravel bar because the drops are at the same width
>>2032734you should be able to eliminate the dead shift by screwing down one of the limit screws one full cog-worth. just take out the outer small cog or the inner large cog, whichever you use less.
>>2032746I told him a rigid mtb would just werk. if he wants to eat the weight penalty for a sus fork he'll never use, particularly if he can lock out the sus, then that's fine, too.
>>2032767seuse your shoulder width as a guide for bar width, although I like a bit thinner.you might try raising the stem so the drop is more comfortable and then just use it in high wind or top gear downhills. but if not, there's bullhorns, mustache, butterfly, trekking, and northroads/swept back bars, you just gotta try stuff u
>>2032767>I barely use the drops on the bikeriser stemput them way upif you have the levers tilted too far up and can't really reach them in the drops, correct that. I like to lay a piece of wood along the flats of the drops and butt the ends of the levers against it. Then you can tilt the bars up between horizontal and pointed at the rear brake bridge.
anyone who thinks they need more than the walmart special ozark is delusional.
>>2032768have you actually worked on any of these brakes, or are you just another online bike mechanic?
>>2032823Not that anon but I have used spyres and bb7s and while not as good as hydraulic brakes in performance they were very easy to adjust
>>2032823>are you actually an expert at bike adjustments though? I, an expert, have not had any problems therefore it's finethank you for making my argument for me, but no, I've only worked with spyres, bb5s, hy/rds, and some generic no-name mech dicks. some of them sucked less than others but they pretty much all sucked. and no, I am not an expert. I am an above-average enthusiast trying to save other people from unnecessary suffering and wasted money>>2032824they're neither as good as hydraulics nor as good as rim brakes, they were invented to sell drop bar disc brake bikes at a lower price point. which is why klampers are hilarious in a way
>>2032829>I've only worked with spyres, bb5s, hy/rds, and some generic no-name mech dicksthen stop talking nonsense about things you know nothing about.
>>2032832and once again, you're making my argument for me, you're so preoccupied with showing off what an amazing mechanic you are that you've lost sight of the issue which is that mech dicks are the worst of all worlds and the only defense you have is "but they're fine if you're a seasoned expert like me"
look at this shit, flat bar levers, the easiest thing humanly possible, require weird hacks just to work at a minimally acceptable level, and these are the best mech dicks money can buy, you could literally buy a reasonably good bicycle, brand new, from a name brand, for what a pair of these brakes costs. now imagine what a headache more pedestrian cable dick brakes cost
>>2032834are you fucking retarded? i've never claimed to be an expert, only to at least worked on them before forming an opinion. you don't need to be an expert to know and understand how to set up brakes properly, but you do need to at least have some hand-on experience.
>>2032837oh my bad for only having set up and worked with 4 different models, maybe the anon looking for bike advice should work for a bike shop for at least a year before making a decision, I forgot this stuff is for experts only
>>2032838>I forgot this stuff is for experts onlywhy the fuck do you keep saying this? it's not that hard to understand that it's stupid to generalize when you've only worked on 4 shitty brake models>>2032836what?
>>2032842you still haven't come up with a rational defense of cable dicks that isn't dick waving about what a great mechanic you are, what a silly hill to die on considering the industry has moved on and cable dicks are not found outside of a few $700 MSRP gravel bikes that should be set up with cantis except that people like you keep telling newcomers that there's nothing wrong with those pieces of shit
>>2032843i never said i was a great mechanic, you fucking moron. there are many cable actuated disc brakes that are complete trash. i even mentioned that the models you mentioned are shitty. i just doubted that you've ridden well set-up, good mechanical disc brakes. it has nothing to do with my or your mechanical abilities.
>>2032845is this not you? you do understand TRP is the company that makes spyres and hy/rds, right? well now you know mr know it all bike expert
>try to hammer out bb30 bearings using official Park Headset Removal tool>non-drive side is fine>driveside gets stuck at an anglenow worried I doinked up my crabon frame. pray for me bros.
>>2032847wow, i said "TRPs" instead of naming the specific model because i couldn't remember it. i still think the Spyres and hy/rds are shit, you fucking pedant.
>>2032849ok because it sure looked like you were saying they were good. besides paul, in your expert opinion, what are some examples of these "good cable disc brakes" that I'm too much of a casual to know about?
I used to be big into cycling about 100lbs ago, I havent touched my bike in like 2 years but I want to and need to do some cardio, im aiming for just 30 minutes of zone 2 a day, but after setting this all up everything fucking hurts, my feet hurt(they always sorta have) and my ass hurts so bad.what do you guys recommend? Id go for a brisk walk outside instead but its winter and im in canada
>>2032896still got this pic after all these years, looking at it I now remember how tasty electrolyte drink mix was on a long ride
Hi. I want to use my old mtb wheels on my gravel bike (i busted a wheel so I need new ones). The grablel takes 12x100 mm to the front but the mtb front wheel I have is 15x100. Can I just slap in some reducer or is there something I didn't get? Major bike shops don't seem to sell 15 mm to 12 mm adapters and I wonder if it's for some technical reason or just to sell more new wheelsets.
>>2032896>>2032897Thats a really sporty fit anon.After years of not cycling and putting on weight its pretty strainous for the body to adapt to such a position again.I'd say get a cheap mtb with a relaxed fit for your trainer and go from there. Get spd pedals and ditch the sl's for now and get some comfy touring shoes. I think for around 500 bucks you could get a decent setup to start again.
>>2032900this is purely for some basic cardio, im not really ''getting into it again'' I dont want to spend money unless I have to, Im thinking I just pop back on some flat pedals and use my running shoes and get a more cushy saddle off amazon or my local decathlon for a few bucks,my padded shorts of coarse dont fit me anymore, If anything il just cycle upright while doom scrolling or somethingIm just doing this because Wikipedia says 30 minutes of zone 2 cardio alone will greatly increase your quality of life
>>2032900do note as I didnt mention it, I was hoping you would infer from my image but il only be using the bike indoors, so not much point in getting a brand new one
>>2032901>>2032902Yeah i did get what you meant and thought that if you really wanted to do this regularly then you should maybe get something else than a roadbike with an agressive fit. You could also just get a riser stem to get the bars a bit up and maybe back and a comfier saddle/flatpedals how you mentioned as a low budget improvement.Also try out to wrap an extra layer of bartape ontop of yours for a more comfier experience.Also if you're really commited you could even build a rocker plate for like 50-100 bucks with some wood to make it a bit cooler.
>>2032901While 30 minutes of zone 2 really will greatly increase your quality of life, you're better off swimming instead if quality of life from fitness is what you desire. It doesn't make realistic sense to exercise using one of the most efficient mechanical devices made by humans. I agree with other anon regarding the aggressive fit but you don't have to be a consoomer to find fitness, however, you have to put some effort given your current state of fitness before you can find yourself comfortably riding an aggressive bike again
surely ELITEWHEELS is trustworthly chinese brand and wont explode while im going downhill 60kmh?
>>2032798>>2032780Well, I was using them a lot when they were tilted so that the bar ends were perpendicular. However, after a minor crash which made me rethink that setup. That’s why I wanted to switch the bars. Of course, I use them for downhill, but I also want to use them on flat terrain for endurance rides.
Can I put a mountain bike seatpost on a fixed gear bike with track geometry?
>>2032036bike geometry, tubing thicknesses and butting, grass is always greener on the other side
>>2032985Yes just make sure it's the right diameter/size.>>2032907your call, brother.
>>2032907if you don't trust it don't ride it. whatever marginal gain in speed carbon rims and a lighter wallet might give you, you offset by riding with more confidence.
So let's say hypothetically that I'm not really experienced but I decided to take an old bicycle apart to strip the paint and rust and old greaseAnd that in my hubris and lack of experience I did not document the process and mixed all the screwsIn what order would you build it back together? I have all the pieces in front of me and it's intimidating
>>2032907There's pretty reputable lots of pros use them zipps and enves blow up too
>>2032999What screws?? Post pic of your disaster
sisters im finna drive 5 miles to bring home pic rel. the gentlemen claims to have not used it much due to domestic issues with a person of opposite sex with whom he had no doubt sexual relations in essence i.e a woman. it also has several superficial not really technical replacements, such as grips, saddle and pedal replacements. he's been in the process of chucking it for eighteen years. what should i be on guard against in terms of major issues or potential hidden flaws?
hey bros. are there any chinese brands or models you guys can recommend? I want a solid bike but I'm from vietnam and really poor so I can't afford anything from well known names even when buying used. currently I'm committed to using bicycle as my primary way to commute. I can afford $500 max. can try to adapt to MTB/road or any kind of bikes as long as the quality is good. I trust you guys more than the local sellers. one of them even shooed me out for saying I want a bike around $300
>>2033012is vietnam already so fucked up by rapacious capitalism that there are no utility bikes around for $500?
>>2033013there are so many no name/whatever name bikes around or below $500 but I pretty much know nothing about bike components and growing up I had a cheap bike that I hated alot and it always had some issues here and thereI want a solid bike that I can trust, feel safe, good value and last really long. I asked local communities they kinda say I should save another $500-1000 then buy but I can't afford or justify that much.
>>2033015forgot to say the bike should be able to go up to 30-40km/h or more speed with moderate-high effort on flat roads. I know it depends greatly on the person riding it too but I'm willing to train in fact I already do but my current old bike just CANT go past like 20km/h and it frustrates me alot since I need to go fast sometimes.
>>2033009>eighteen yearsif it hasn't been ridden for 18 years straight, all the grease in the bearings has dried up and is not the correct consistency of snot but has turned into boogers, which no longer lubricates the bearings. you may have a complete bearing overhaul in your future. if it was ridden intermittently, it may be ok.I bought a bike like that which was never ridden enough to wear out the factory grease in the shifters which had ossified and prevented the shifter from moving, had to take them off the bar, take covers off, work penetrant through everything while moving the levers for 5 or ten minutes per. other than that, looks like it was indoors and not rained on so that's protected the drivetrain and cables so that's good. I don't know if those brakes are hydro or cable. sometimes hydros need the fluid bled but I don't know if inactivity does that or what. but if they're spongy feeling or anything other than rock solid then yeah.
>>2033012>>2033015poor, southeast asian, and you need a reliable bike with good value and decent performance?Fixed gear bicicleta
>>2033012is there any kind of used market there? is it mountainous or flat there?
>>2033021oh no i was exaggerating with the amount of time listed. it has been looking for an owner for almost two years. the brakes are hydro, yeah. i appreciate the advice.
Anons... hate, let me tell you about hateIf the word "hate" was repeatedly seared into the foreheads of every niggerfaggot SRAMfuck for every revolution of a bicycle crankset on this fine planet for 20 years in 2 hours it would not equal 1/34th of the amount of HATE I feel for SRAM in this heartbeat.Okay, now that that is out of the system:TOPIC:bottom bracket replacementDETAILS:SRAM GX1000 crankset73mm BSA bottom bracketISSUE:after installing new bearings(https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005002320980907.html) there is play side to side in the bottom bracketI threw "correctness" to the wind since I need this bike tomorrow and simply did two incorrect things1) add a spacer each under the bearing cups of drive side and nds2)IT STILL FUCKING HAD SIDE TO SIDE PLAY, OVER 2.5mm SO I PUT THESE COPPER PLATED MAC-GYVER ATROCITIES IN TOO JUST SO THAT I CAN USE THE DAMN THING AND THE CRANK IS STILL FUCKING JIGGLING HATE HATE HATE HATE HATEI suspect that even when everything "fits" and the parts are "right" though, that a design where the shaft rides on plastic will always wiggleBut we are talking about easily visible wiggle hereI will have to drive sitting and pedal carefully and slowlyShould I just order a shimano crankset?Their design isn't as asinineI probably should just go back to square taperThat shit at least worksWhat do you guys do?This while situation is really fucking pathetic
>>2033031>buy aliexpress bb>blame sram that bb says it's for sram GXP, but ... is it? Sram is 24mm on one side and 22mm on the other of the spindle whereas Shimano is just 24mm on both sides. That bb seems to say that it is actually Shimano. Is it 22mm on one side? Doesn't say that anywhere.
>>2033032>>That bb seems to say that it is actually Shimano. Is it 22mm on one side? Doesn't say that anywhere.I measured and the NDS dia. is indeed narrower than the DS dia.But the problem I am having is literally-literally orthagonal to that:The primary problem is that there is lateral playThe co-axial distance between the DS and NDS bearings when installed in the BB is too narrow apparentlyIt's slightly less worse when I go hogwild by adding spacers on both sidesThis is a 73mm bb and wisdom has it using a SRAM mtb crankset I shouldn't be installing a single spacerIt's apparently more a suggestionsI think I'll be haunting a nearby bike shop and give him a 10$ to steal a few BB spacers just so my money isn't completely lost on this shitInterestingly the SPANK SPIKE pedals I had were a total letdown tooThe nuts holding the outboard smaller bearings apparently loosened and now the damage is irreparable120$ down the drain and I didn't even use those shits an entire yearFuck your incompetent design with an unsecured bearing retention, SPANKShimano has been doing this better on their hubs for over 50 years now, it's a known engineering issue
Anyone know what kind of cable stop would fit these? The notch up top gets in the way so standard Shimano ones don't fit, and the screw it comes with is too big for the hole
>>2033038My my my, have I got the exact right thing for you:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mm1m4B42vqwWhat you have is apparently a "proprietary" shifter bossThe search term is "proprietary type shifter boss"You can modify normal cable stops to fit or buy something for 20-35$This dude shows the modification process, you basically just file a wide enough notch on the corresponding edge of the left and right cable stophttps://simplicityvintagecycles.com/2012/04/09/the-kodiak-saga-continues/
>off-season ending>bib shorts become too tight without reasonAnyone else dealing with this phenomenon? I am losing a fortune getting new bib shorts every spring.
>>2033032I think I know what I'll do: I'll just add more spacers until it actually fitsSeeing how even the OEM install used a spacer (in spite of the manuals saying "no spacers" for 73mm + mtb crankset on GXP) this is my -ridiculous -way forwardI blame sram not because of the BB not fitting but because of the ridiculousness of the design in the first placeOnly reason they made it the way it is is because these hacks were beaten by shimano w.r.t. making a contiguous through-axle with outboard cup-seated bearings on a BSA bracket
>>2033031A genuine SRAM bb is like $30 you went through all that to save $15?
>>2033047Nah, I just genuinely believed this BB is okay because it had the right diametersI didn't think they'd be varying in width if it's for GXPI do hate the stepped design that SRAM uses but that's another topicJust have to make it work now
>>2033047>>2033048Honestly considering putting on square taper at this point because to hell with this shit, it just breaks in winter either way
>>2033046could you have the chingachonga design where you are meant to put big spacers between the frame and bb, and small spacers onto the crank? and presumably they failed to package the big spacers?
>>2033058There was a single big spacerSmall spacers weren't even part of the OEM installationYour picrel is probably how I'll do itMan, using anything but simple MTBs is just a pain in the ass, perhaps it's time for me to finally just drop my infatuation with bikes and see it as a necessity I sometimes maintain, then using square taper won't hurt as much.
>>2033037That sucks anon, but that's the way with bike wrenching. Some things are overpriced and suck, others have gay standards that don't always work and get to cope with.>>2033038>>2033040cursed.About as bad as the 2 different types of top mount friction shifter types. Found that out recently too.
>>2033013>Le capitalism boogie man.
>>2033065Yeah it sucks but not overly hard to fix, I suppose
any tips on buying a cheapo saddle? or am i over thinking it?
>>2033105I always forget my image
>>2033106I would get a wtb rocket 5 off ebay, or any nice saddle off ebay that looks okay
>>203310650 bucks for chinese saddle is pretty expensive
>>2033111its 50 CAD, so like 10 USD
>>2033112That's not bad. I just know it's hard to tell if a bike saddle will fit...... you well unless it's ordered
>>2033113that was a joke 50 cad is 35 USD, amazon has one of the most forgiving return policies anyway
>>2033105the highest china tech in thta price range is a 3d printed saddle with carbon rails. i have this one, the biggest problem is rolling the dice on fit
>>2033114yeah, just put some tube on the rails when testing it so there won't be any scratches
thoughts on a trek domane AL3 gen 1 (2020) for 300 euros as my first road bike?
>>2033123lgtm
>>2033123check the serial number
>>2033121I have one of those.The quality is honestly not bad but it is kinda small so i put it on my fixed gear for short rides. But whatever you dont really loose money if it sucks at that pricepoint
>>2033134post fixie
>>2033105measure your sit bones and apply your riding style but this chart is for a particular brand, and everyone is different. you still have to try different saddles. >>2031498I got a full carbon clone of spesh toque for $20 on ali but I had to pad the seat and also the sides cut into my butt flaps so I had to pad those but now it's awesome. I could have bought a saddle pad but I didn't want to cover up the cutout because of looks so I used foam and contact cement.
>>2033008>screwsBolts, sorry, I call everything that's screwed a screwI started sorting them by types but I can't remember where everything goes
>>2033169did you take your derailleurs apart or what? thats the only part I know of that has a spring in it.lotsa luck with that
Why does it feel less enjoyable and not as easy to ride an indoor training bike compared to actually riding a bike?
>>2031441whats the best cross country route for someone that wants to ride flat roads and drink heavily in every town along the way?
>>2033181No cooling wind, no out door air, no scenic road/terrain. Many more reasons as well
>>2033171prolly the brakes dude
>>2033184Well there are some counties that are dry(can't buy alcohol) in the south.Across the US there are mountain ranges, and then a mixture of DEAD flat, and rolling hills depending on where you go.I have done a fair amount of traveling on a motorcycle and a car.What are your goals/ things you REALLY want to see?Oh, and remember more time at a spot=more exploration.
>>2033196>What are your goals/ things you REALLY want to see?I'd really like to be around a lot of rivers so I can fish, camp and swim. I have no schedule so I would like to take it easy and just enjoy my time traveling without rushing from here to there. I've seen most of what the western states have to offer but I haven't been east of Montana. I'd like something flat because I'm towing a 85lb dog.
>>2033198ah, I have only done one trip east of that area to penssylvania. where I took the 80 through illinois, indiana, ohio, and to pennsylvania.Then came back through tennesse.Honestly I don't remember any large mountains/hills at that point. There was a lot of wind and once you get to indiana it was humid and green.TBQH I don't know a ton about the rivers to fish out of in that area either.You could plot out some routes and just look at the elevation gain/loss and good places to fish.
>>2033184>>2033198ask on /out/, there's also a touring thread and one guy is towing his dog across the states for few years now
>>2033122il keep that in mind but lets be real, amazon wont care
how do I fix my hands position on hood? they hurt and go numb after like 20 minutes. I've already tried slightly rotating bar upwards and downwards and shorter stem. what else can I try?
>>2033231rotate hoods inward slightly. move hoods further up the bar. get a shorter stem, or one with more rise
>>2033105>>2033106speaking for saddles, leather or carbon saddle (both from China) for a neo retro bike?
>>2033231adjust seat position so you aren't putting so much weight on your hands
>>2033231>>2033259yeah, nose up the saddle a notch or two, this has worked for me
>>2033231post some pics of your setup
>>2033169oh jesus man why did you do that lol
I have a one piece crank and need new bearings, what size do I get?
>>2033279Measure them first, and I think those are ashtabula cranks
>>2033284What if it goes to shit when I open it up and I can't ride to get the bearings
>>2031488>why is something expensive >proceed telling the story of labour value theory no, shit is expensive simply because there are people willing to pay for it.Modern bicycles are not particularly expensive to manufacture. in fact we have t47 BB exactly because they are built like shit.
>>2033292If you are ordering online then wait, if not and you need to ride there Just look online for general ashtabula cranks and look for what the common ball size is. I know it's pretty large since they just live in grease and ride on pressed in cups+the crank.Should be american sizing too like 1/4, or 5/16, or bigger.
these worth it, or will they fall apart in a week? 7 euros btware there some nice chink brands for mtb grips out there I should get instead?
>>2033305sometimes if you lurk moar you can find the same item from no name company for cheaper. but it's not always the case. and I would go for the ergon style grips if they're in colour you want.