I got a car from 1995 and the manual says that I should use SG or SH oil because of the zinc levelsExcept these are "obsolete" and don't get made anymore. But then do the newer variants have enough of the required zinc?
>>28738454Mobil 1 high mileage
>>28738463My car only has 60k miles tho
Amsoil or Liqui-Moly 100% synthetic if you're not poor.
>>28738469>>28738463But what about the API levels? Do they not matter?
>>28738477Current API supersedes all prior API's. Castrol or nothing OP. Nothing keeps engines cleaner.
>>28738793>>28738469I ONLY use RED LINE 5W40 in my BMWs
>>28738454>I got a car from 1995 and the manual says that I should use SG or SH oil because of the zinc levelsUse only OEM oil, and nothing else.>Except these are "obsolete" and don't get made anymore. Go down to your local dealership and purchase the superseded OEM oil.>But then do the newer variants have enough of the required zinc?The OEM oil will. You can't ever be sure that any aftermarket oil will
you can Google search the car and recommended oil types. many modern oil types were made for Obama/Biden emissionscuck engines however that's gone now fortunately. but generally speaking vintage cars especially from the 60s and earlier require high zinc oil.
>>28738847Often hot rod or racing oil can be used as it has suitable high zinc content.
>>2873886960's muscle cars and 90's shitboxes aren't exactly the same thing. OP is way overthinking this.
>>28738876He never even said what car he has, but in the general sense pushrod engines aren't suitable for many modern low zinc oils.
>>28738880>>28738876Honda civic, forgot to mention
>>28738813Then you are spending too much. Red Line is the ultimate clickbait shit post oil.
>>28738454Just use whatever and add some zinc additive??
>>28738454just shove some 10w40 in there and call it a day, it's all the same.
>>28738974>Honda civic, forgot to mentionUse only genuine Honda Oil + Genuine Honda filter, nothing else
>>28739343redline mt90 is actually great gearbox oil though. made mine shift slightly smoother.
>>28738454Highest Zinc oil you can buy off the shelf is the VR1 10w-30.Diesel oils have been Cucked Zinc wise so no help there.>>28738463High mileage shouldn't be used in lower mile cars It has additives to make seals swell, fine for a high mile car. But once you stop using that oil, the rubber gaskets shrink again.The M1 extended performance is basically the same oil without the anti leak additives.>>28739343Redline is good for race cars.Not sure why a normal person would run it in commuter cars.A Honda isn't a GT3 or something.I run their racing oil.Works great, 1,000 mile oil changes though.
>>28739343Delusional>>28739456>Redline is good for race carsIt's also good for MODIFIED engines
>>2873945610w-30 is usually fine, contrary to what some boomers claim you don't need quite as much zinc as you think.
>>28739456Wrong, wrong, and more wrong. You MUST only use genuine oil.Do you really think you know more than the thousands of engineers and tribologists who spent years and millions of dollars to come up with the optimum formulation?
>>28739425"Honda" oil.
>>28739465It depends more on the engine compression, higher zinc level is needed the higher compression the engine is. A flathead Ford wouldn't be a problem because the compression is pretty low but higher comp performance engines might not get enough from some oils designed for Obama emissionscuck engines.
Valvoline VR1 is good for many vintage car engines.
>>28739472>"Honda" oil.That doesn't make it the same as what you can pick up off the shelf at a car parts store.Manufacturers make different grades for vehicles, where OE get the best. Don't believe me? Go and buy a genuine Toyota Oil Filter, and a Denso Toyota Oil Filter. They're completely different, even though Toyota owns Denso
or as he said you can get zinc additive if you want to use modern off the shelf oils designed for >>28738847
>>28739484>>28739456Racing oil works fine for vintage engines.
>>28739484Remember that the chemical composition of modern oils is different and often eliminates the need for high zinc levels. Too much zinc can even be bad for an engine. I'm not sure zinc additives are strictly necessary, although I'd recommend real oil in a vintage engine rather than synthetic as it's less likely to leak.
>>28739502well there are some boomers who swear synthetic works fine in old cars and leakage...it happens, it happened when those cars were new because of the looser manufacturing tolerances on 50s-60s engines. you probably noticed how oil slicks in parking lots used to be commonplace and you never see those anymore.
>>28738454the api grades are backwards compatible
>>28739455Gear oil is different though. It's worth investing more in, since it doesn't get changed often.>>28739464>Delusional Twat. You have no idea what you're talking about. You watch too much fast and furious. It's all fake.
>>28739468You mean the same engineers that design cars to get through the warranty period? You're literally the perfect idiot.
>>28738834i'm sure toyota dealer has a ton of 20w-50 in stock fuckwit
>>28739726Get 5w50Thank me later
>>28738834Dealerships just sell whatever cheap mystery meat oil they can get the cheapest to put in their bottles and mark it up 100% to suckers like you who don't realize they're basically buying O'Reilly store brand motor oil.
So this thread summed up:>dont buy from your manufacturer>dont buy from a dealership>online is just the same crapgreat, fucking great, well done /o/
>>28739425Please stop, that's retarded.
5w40 a3b4 for anything below 2L engines.Above 2L read the fucking book. Also Ravenol has a good automatic VIN reader and offers a pretty wide range. Look what fits, copy those API/OEM/SHTF and search for simiar stuff.
>>28738454DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OILPeople want to know why cars used to last millions of miles and the answer is because REAL OIL was used.
>>28739591Weird how genuine oil (aka rebranded major brand oil with different additives) has been a thing for decades and yet we have cars that also have lasted just as long!
>>2873992860s cars had five digit odometers for a reason.
>>28739932>>28739928Why not just use steam instead, retard?
>>28738454buy the cheapest oil you can find
I usually brew my own oil from corn syrup and deer cum.
>>28739969steam engines still required REAL OIL>>28739947Yeah because no one expected people to travel hundreds of thousands of miles in a world where the interstates and mass highways were still heavily in development.
>>28740207Based
>>28738454Newer oils replace older oils. Your manual from 1995 doesn't say anything about SN and SP because it didn't exist at the time. Honestly, the specific oil doesn't matter a whole lot as long as it's the correct weight and you change your oil regularly.
>>28740783as he said, the function zinc used to do has been superseded by the components in a lot of newer oils so you really don't need it as muc. the one thing i might avoid is using synthetic oil as it's thinner and more prone to leak in vintage engines (they would leak even with dino oil).
>>28738454The API SH standard specified 0.12% zinc, or 1200 PPM. Now, they don't specify what exact molecules including zinc that would be, which can be the major rub. At the time of course it would usually be ZDDP, or zinc dithiophosphate, which forms a bearing surface under heat and pressure, and also scavenges free radicals. Of course, there are very few oils with that much zinc in them these days besides racing oils. I can't speak for all manufacturers since I don't have data sheets from everyone, but HPL Premium and Premium Plus PCMO, Quaker State Euro/Penzoil Platinum Euro, Mobil1 FS Euro, Mobil1 15w-50 (made for flat tappet engines), Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck, and Amsoil Signature all have very aggressive anti-wear packages and friction modifiers, including zinc compounds.
