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Fujifilm neopan across 2 edition

NEWS
Kodak to cut price of 35mm tri x by 30% https://petapixel.com/2024/01/31/kodak-cuts-iconic-tri-x-black-and-white-film-prices-by-up-to-30/

PREV THREAD:>>4278871

QUESTION to start the thread off
>What do you feel to be the best b&w film and film developer combo?

/fgt/ daily reminder (courtesy by anon): one stop per decade is (generally) bullshit
>negative film ages better than positive
>black and white better than color
>slow films better than fast
>storage conditions (dry/cool) matter more than years
>Negative film is shot 1 or 2 stops overexposed and then PULLED in development so that you build more density in the exposure and develop less such that the fog is limited
>slide/positive film is shot at box speed or overexposed and pulled.
>if you home develop you can also use benzotriazole as a restrainer for the the first developer in E6 process


Useful links
>[massive dev chart] gives times for home film development
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
>[film dev] shows results of development regimes
https://filmdev.org/
>[news & community links]
35mmc.com
casualphotophile.com
kosmofoto.com
emulsive.org
japancamerahunter.com
>>
Thoughts on this? It is basically a TTL spot meter for large format cameras.

There's a photosensor on the end of that wand, and you can move it around your framed shot. The holder has a removable slide so you can see where you're metering directly on your image. Once you choose a spot you need to close the slide for the best reading.

My thoughts are that it is a somewhat unnecessary tool, but it would be extremely useful for macro work where even a 1 degree spot meter can be too big to use.

My one concern is that it lacks any sort of flash trigger/functionality.

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>>
>>4282669
Sound valid and more precise than fucking around with a spot meter.
Let's see how it does IRL
>>
Budapest was a treat, too bad i couldn't take my camera to the public baths the building was gorgeous
>>
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>>4282669
i only really see this being useful for macro work. wanding around the whole field of view to find a particular spot outdoors would get real old real fast compared to a handheld spot meter. but for macro work i think another advantage is that you wouldn't need to do bellows extension calculations, since it's ttl. that's up to you if it's worth the $300, i don't shoot sheet film and i don't shoot macro.

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>>
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What's a good 50mm lens I can get for my A2E? Should I opt for an older lens, or is a modern 50 okay?

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>>4282707
Ef, unlike lesser mounts like F mount, should be pretty forward and backward compatible so even the nifty fifty v3 should work on there
>>
>>4282707
>What's a good 50mm lens I can get for my A2E?
Original 50mm f/1.8 or the 50mm STM
>>
>>4282707
yeah the nifty fifties are fine, really any older ef glass is perfectly good for film. i also am looking at a 40mm f2.8 pancake as an even tinier walk-around lens, just to keep on my canon elan 7

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>>
>>4282707
The 40mm f2.8 STM pancake.
>>
What did everyone shoot on the weekend? 14 rolls at lunar new year festival for me
>>
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>hp5 costs $8.95, meanwhile you can get ultramax or superia for less than that
Why the fuck wouldn't I just shoot color and convert to B&W?
>>
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Help bros, I love my Olympus XA too much. It's so convenient, especially with the flash that I can almost never justify bringing my FE places.

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>>4282744
Cause you can stock up on foma 400 instead at $6/roll
>>
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>>4282740
Couple frames while running errands. Nothing is exciting. nor'easter this week though so thatll be fun.

>>4282744
Cause you can develop HP5 yourself in 20 minutes for $0.50? I dunno man I shoot bw cause I hate dealing with colour developing and editing.

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These fiber optic illuminators are really sweet for my 4x5/view camera macro work. Super convenient to set up, the light is bright enough to illuminate the subject at higher f-stops, and you can use random things as light modifiers. The film canisters softened the light up really nicely. :D

>>4282705
Yeah, I think I will pass on it for now. Maybe one day. If it was only like 100 bucks I would probably get it, but I already have a sekonic l-608 that works perfectly.

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>>
>>4282744

Well color film has shit resolution for starters but you do you!
>>
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Waiting on 5 B/W rolls and 2 color rolls to be developed currently.

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>>
I have an 80-160mm zoom lens (too heavy), and a 150mm lens for my pentax 645.
Which other go-to lenses should I pick up? I'm thinking the 75mm, that I can swap with the 150mm during photo walks. Would that be enough? Any other neat gear I can buy for this camera?
>>
>>4282819
What do you shoot mainly? We need more info to give you good advice.

I have a mamiya 6, and I really enjoy using a 50mm, but that may be too wide for your style of photography.
>>
>>4282819
If you are in portraits or in close up stuff I would recommend to buy magnifier. I've failed to many portraits miss focusing with medium format SLRs.
>>
Does anyone know wtf this thing is? I got it in a film photography/darkroom lot on ebay, and I have no clue what it is. Absolutely no text anywhere on it to even give me a clue.

There's thick felt on one side of the interior.
>>
>>4282829
contact print frame. you place your 4x5(?) negative in the frame with the paper film and close the frame, expose it to your enlargers light and you have a positive dark room print from your 4x5 negative. i've been meaning to get one.

Also useful for darkroom collages... you can actually contact print a paper negative. if you're cutting pieces out of a print/paper negative you can rearrange them and so on and so fourth to make a pretty cool darkroom collage. look up Shana and Robert ParkeHarrison to get a better idea of what i'm saying hahaha
>>
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>>4282645
>What do you feel to be the best b&w film and film developer combo?

honestly, i've been using Clayton F76 Plus because it's cheap af and my developer hasn't exhausted in months- that with ilford hp5+ hahaha basic but i love it!

i gotta throw xtol in there tho it's came in clutch this past month. I've had a sealed gallon of it for almost an entire year and it was still good- great even! It's a bitch to mix tho not a fan of powder developers, especially since i get anxiety when i see all the hard dregs not dissolving D:<
>>
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Apparently this was 20 year old film.

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>>4282858
>>4282829
Also they are useful if you want to dabble into alternative process like cyanotype
>>
>>4282820
Cars and portraits, though I haven't tried it yet with the pentax just my other 35mm film cameras.
>>
Kentmere/fomapan 100 developed in xtol is my go to for b&w. I find xtol reduces any excess grain created by pushing film.

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>>
>>4282862
Hmm, not bad. Need a lot of correction for this or is that straight from negative? Some dope is selling a bundle of 20 rolls on the local Facebook market. Nothing fancy just drug store Kodak tier stuff, but it’s cheap (relatively). problem is it’s from 2006 and “I think it’s just been stored at room temperature”. Not sure if it’s worth the gamble.
>>
anyone know of a good place I can send my SRT 101 to get a CLA? or should I just call around in my local area? my gf has an OM1 that needs fixing and there's an old olympus technician running a site that gets recommended a lot. curious if there's an equivalent for minolta
>>
>>4282874
nice shot!

I'm curious how do you mix your xtol? The hard dregs at the bottom don't bother you? do you strain it? lol
>>
I had the chance to shoot with a Olympus XA. It was adorable and I fell in love with the form factor, however I'm not a fan of wide angles. Is there anything comparable with at least a 50mm?
>>
>>4282951
Not really. Just get a zoom p&s. Contax tvs would be dope
>>
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Kinda corny, but I still think it came out pretty sweet. Uncropped Kodak gold!

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>>
>>4282873
50ish mm for cars, and something between 120 and 200 for portraits. 80mm is your 50mm equivalent, so it's always nice to have in your pack.

You can just look up the 35mm equivalent focal lengths for 120.
>>
>>4283033
Very sweet.
>>
Hei bois! Need a consultation.
As far as my darkroom is very poorly conditioned I decided to replace my chemicals with something not so toxic as Hydroquinone. So I ordered Neutol ECO (ascorbic-based) dev.

My main paper dev is Ilford MG for now, I also did some experiments with other developers but all of them were Hydroquinone + Metol. So it will be great if someone explain me what should I expect from Neutol Eco in comparison to my typical process/results.

And one more question: for Hydroquinone devs I use Citric Acid 20g/1L as stop bath. What will be the best replacement for this? Just a water bath?
>>
>>4282973
>Contax TVS
I wanted something analogic, and they seem quite expensive. At this point it will either be a XA or a Rollei 35, which lacks the rangefinder (not that XA's rangefinder is all that great) but gains 5mm in focal length (not that it's gonna make that much of a difference).
>>
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from my first roll ever shot from vivitar panoramic cam i got at the thrift store. yeah it's out of focus and shitty lookin but i think it's neat :)

please tho i desperately need tips of how to make this shit look like i dont have parkinsons. i'll hold the cam as still as possible in the pictures i took but they just look ridiculous. be nice im learning
>>
>>4283151
It depends, its your camera one of those "focuse free" ones? or does it have an auto exposure method? It so probably it has only one or 2 speeds, probably something like 1/60, and that works fine if you taking photos on daylight.

what film did you used? seems like a shoot at sunset/early morning so if you were using film like 200 iso and set the camera to that it will choose a slow shutter speed to let more light into the film and you will always get that kind of blurry messes unless you use a tripod/flash
>>
>>4283151
Tripods and panoramas go together like bacon and eggs. If you want to walk around with it consider a monopod. I was able to get basically no motion blur shooting at like 1/10 - 1/4 of a second when using one carefully.
>>
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Photo dump from the past couple days. Tmax 100 and delta 400 on 50 and 85mm planar using rts3.

Enjoy

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All done.

Anyone know if the streaking on the 2 heli pics is bromide drag? I did stand dev, so there's a chance.

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>>4283154
smart lad, you nailed it right on the head i think. I was using 200 iso fuji and this camera is "focus free." The pic was taken around sunset. I have a few more taken around that time and came out really dark. so what i'm getting is that the two are definitely related for this sorta thing? camera is a vivitar ic101 for context

I had another roll I shot with my minolta himatic af2 and made the idiotic mistake of opening the back thinking I wound it up already so i had nothing for comparison.

>>4283155
thanks anon i'll take it into account next time
>>
>>4283053
I found a 45mm for super cheap. Is that too wide? Still looking for a decent 75mm for the 645
>>
>>4283174
45mm is a 28mm equivalent in 35mm. Shouldn't be too wide for car shots. If it's a good deal I would grab it.

You can get an app called cadrage and then program it to your film format and lenses. It will show you a simulated fov based on the lenses you select. It isn't perfect, but it is close enough to give you a good idea of what you'll be getting.
>>
How important is bleach and fixer temperature when developing color film?
I can have 1 water container at 41° c with all chem bottles in it, but how can I have developer at 41, fixer at 38, etc?
Or is it important for developer only and the rest need to be in the ballpark?
>>
>>4283167
You should stick to LF, you'll post less of this shit that way.
Credit where it's due, there is a visible reduction in dog hair on these. Still an intolerable amount, but less than before.
And yes your shit development is a result of your shit development.
Seeing as you're clearly spending a dead relative's money on all this gear, why have you not out-flexed us all and bought a Leica Monochrom, so you can post in digi threads too?
>>
>>4283197
Since he's spending the GDP of a small african nation anyway, I wonder why he hasn't made his darkroom also a white room. You know, too to bottom laminar flow of highly filtered air. Hell, a laminar flow cabinet would be fine too.
>>
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>>4283197
Well someone's a little jaded! Some advice for you. A negative mindset can really influence your perception, and not in a good way. It leads to poor taste and silly outbursts.

I shoot film to make prints. They will be free of all dog hair and detritus when I am printing them. I know the best way to do this, but I am not going to take the time for simple scans.

I have a motorized beseler 45v-xl with a universal color head, and a NOS jobo 3504 print processor for color printing. Still looking to get my rodenstock rodagon apo-N enlarger lenses, but those aren't entirely necessary yet, except the 360mm one for doing super small crops.

I got a great deal on everything, so I haven't quite spent as much as that silly ass camera, but I will probably be around there after I renovate the shed and turn it into a darkroom.

I don't even know what film camera I would drop 10k+ on.. Maybe a linhof technorama with a full set of lenses? Nah, I would get a nice 8x10 view camera with a full set of rodenstock aspherical lenses. Maybe one day...

>>4283200
Darkroom is still in the works. I am going to build a heated film drying cabinet with a hepa filter on it, lol. I know how to build stuff, so it will be a fun little project for me.

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>one out of my two backordered velvia packs finally arrives from adorama
>box has clearly been cut open with a box cutter and then taped up
>4/5 rolls already open
final solution when?

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>>
>>4283197
I ordered these just for you! Happy now? :)

I learned from an old master photographer/printer I was working with that the best way(or just his way) to clean negatives is to blow the negative off with a good blast of canned air, and then swipe it through an anti-static cloth.

A quick swipe through the cloth should make a pretty big improvement without needing the air. I always hated using canned air on my negatives. If you move the can around too much while blowing air it can blast out the super cold liquid and possibly destroy your negative.

>>4283224
Did you order 5 or 4? That's a pretty big flex buying velvia in this day and age.
I hope you post some pictures you took with it one day!!

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>>
Is it worth it to upgrade from a Nikon EM to an FM3A?

I mainly want to upgrade for versatility. You can't set the shutter speed with the EM, and the highest it goes to anyway is 1/1000th of a second. I just want to be able to throw Portra 400 or 800 in it, and shoot wherever I want (maybe use the EM with 200 ISO stuff) The FM3A goes up to 1/4000th of a second, has multiple exposure capability, etc. Also the ASA selector on my EM is loose and constantly moves itself to the wrong ASA.

Itll be mainly used as a travel camera, taking pictures of landscapes, urban environments, informal pictures of ther people. Occasionally it will be put on a tripod for night shots and portraits but its all amateur. No pro work.

Im asking this because I am getting last second emotions that perhaps I don't really *need* it.
>>
>>4283238
>em to fm3a
That's an insane jump in terms of price range but if you can afford it and *really* want it then sure.
If you're after good shutter speeds a camera like the Nikon F2 or F3 would be just as good for less money. F3 for somewhat better manual metering/battery powered shutter/more modern feel. F2 for a more tactile old feel and mechanical shutter, also style points imo. Obv also depends on what lenses you're running. Both of those go up to 1/2000th and if you're shooting anything above that you're either shooting race cars or too fast of an ISO.

TLDR: If you're doing pastime shooting you could go way cheaper for similar results. If you're operating on a 'need' basis you can do better for less.
>>
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>>4282645
When it comes to cheap color film is there any reason not to buy those ~$20 3-packs of Fujikodak Gold 200? Are there any vaguely equivalent or better deals out there that don't involve screwing with $200 bulk rolls of cinema film?
>>
>>4283253
more like $25 now where I am, but yeah it's pretty decent
you might be able to find a few pennies cheaper but not much. proimage 100 is like 20c per roll less online but I haven't tried it and the sample images don't inspire confidence
>>
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>>4283095
Then get the xa. You already used it and know you like it.

>>4283224
Bruh wtf, I'd be returning that shit ASAP. Surprised adorama is that sleezy honestly.

>>4283253
How much are 5 packs of pro image these days? That film slaps

Finished a roll of p3200 tonight

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>>4283224

blame rests on fuji for not packing their product properly, even garbage dollar store tier chinese products put a piece of cardboard filler under the tape line to prevent this from happening.
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>forgot to advance the film
>forgot that GP3 develops better on stand dev
oh well
>>4283169
Yeah I would keep the vivitar only for daylight since as mentioned before it doesn't have that many speed options so your chances with that one is only in daylight or load it with something like portra 800 and to be honest I am not sure that is going to be worth it.

The Hi-matic probably will do better, having a flash and doing auto exposures.
>>4283253
Sometimes I see Ultramax going for the same price and well its iso 400 if you need that

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>>4283253
Fuji 200 is different from Gold, but I don't really like either. Fuji 400 is where it's at. Really awesome greens and blues.
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>>4283253
You can get a 5 pack of proimage 100 sent to you from b&h for $33.

I haven't really touched fuji 200/400 2k23 yet so I haven't really developed an opinion on them yet
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>>4283294
I've heard that "new fuji 200/400 is repackaged gold/ultramax" but from looking at the data sheets and the few rolls of it I've shot it just seems to be kodaks take on the stocks. Similar to how across 2 is
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>>4283298
Pretty much. Kodak took over production for a bit while Fuji spun up the lines again, but it's still a Fuji emulsion. Wish 400 still had Superia's extra color layer, but apparently that was a bitch to make.
>>
>last time I used film was as a kid
>get a minolta camera at a yard sale, guy seemed happy that a zoomer was interested in film
>came with multiple rolls that appear to be from the 90s
They have the L shaped thing on the end but can I really be sure that they're actually unused? I don't want to wake up to FBI agents pointing guns at me because my photos were superimposed over pizza
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>>4283303
>can I really be sure theyre unused?
No, just get some fresh film and save the expired stuff for later. Check to see if the camera autowinds the film into the canister. Most point n shoots of the era are auto-rewind, so they don't keep the film tongue out of the canister. It's probably unused but extremely old. If your camera happens to have manual ISO settings you can shoot it, otherwise forget it.
>>
saw a german shepherd today and immediately thought of that guy on here who always posts his dog. i need to log off
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>>4283301
Thought the 4th color layer got the boot in superia circa 2009
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>>4283310
Based. Enjoy looking at this very sharp, in focus, and only somewhat dirty scan of my dog. Even a simple lighting set up can make such a big difference.

Now please be honest with me here. Whose was cuter?

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First time developing black and white. Ilford Pan F in Hypercat. Detail is insane, will probably shoot this exclusively for a while. There's still more detail in the negative that can't be resolved by the best Frontier scans my lab can do

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>>4283033
trippy af. thought it was a doulbe exposure at first, but it's water whoa

>>4283161
>>4283164
>>4283166
siiiiick. you should take a proper portrait of that one cow someday

>>4283310
hahahahahahah i think about that foo and that LF macro shooter lmao
>>
who have y'all been inspired by lately? anyone or anything make you rethink your visual grammar?
>>
>>4282883
This was without anything done to it after scanning. Just a crop.
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>>4283167
>is bromide drag?
It is.
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>>4283331
>visual grammar
I see picture that please me, I take picture. Me think no more than that.
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>>4283330
>cow
Ty! I think I captured the cramped and fearful emotions of the cows with those images. They're good now. :D
I'm developing 2 rolls of 120 color tommorow, almost all cow pics.
I really like composing cow pics that are 85% cow and 15% background or less. You can do some interesting and intimate stuff when you're shooting really tight compositions like that. Very very fun. The 150mm lens I have for my mamiya 6 was perfect for it.

>macro
2 ektar, 4 portra sheets, and 6 more tmax sheets should be done in a few days. When I'm walking my dog I will keep an eye out for things I want to take macro shots of. If Im lucky I may find one or two things in a day or two.
I think I'm going to start experimenting with water soon. I have also been really pushing myself to find macro subjects that actually benefit from color film. Quite challenging. Each of those macro shots takes me around 10-20 minutes to set up. I love that about them.

>>4283344
Damn. Stand dev is incredibly convenient. I may try out some semi-stand recipes to see how they come out instead. I know the drag is from not enough agitation. Do you know if a semi stand would be enough to avoid that?

>>4283331
Nature, but really close up. I should look up some famous livestock/animal photographers, and macro photographers for inspiration.
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>>4283357
>Damn. Stand dev is incredibly convenient. I may try out some semi-stand recipes to see how they come out instead. I know the drag is from not enough agitation. Do you know if a semi stand would be enough to avoid that?
Yes, it should. Depends of how long you are cooking your film, you can do short agitations once every 20/30 minutes.

Also I've noticed that some film stocks less affected by stand dev than another. HP5 an Kentmere 100 looks better than Bergger Pancro for example. (Can't post any photos from this IP, but I can share a couple of links to inst to show what I am talking about)
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>>4283331
this is my fav photo i've seen in the past week. lovely frame, movement, and texture
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>>4283365
It's got a certain something which is aesthetically pleasing, but it's meaningless. I'm going to forget about it as soon as I close the browser. It doesn't mean anything, it points to nothing, it's just novelty.
>>
>>4283365
that's ai my dude
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>>4283367
Do you exclusively shoot starving children in war-torn areas?
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>>4283367
Some je ne sais quoi?
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>>4283417
Dumb frogposter
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>>4283417
Fung shwey if you will
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GUYS, if you had to pick one 400 foot roll of kodak vision3 film, which iso and color balance would you choose???

I'm leaning towards 250D because I like the extra flexibility of it. I'm getting choice paralysis the more reasearch I do.
>>
>>4283464
500T or bust
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>>4283466
Why tho?
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>>4283466
Orrrr do you think it would be wortwhile to just get a couple rolls of each from cinestill and see which one I prefer? Looking more into it 500T seems to be the most flexible, and still very fine grained.
>>
>>4282645
>>4282645
would it be stupid to get me 120 dry plates to shoot in my medium format camera? I do not want to invest into a 4x5 camera if I do not enjoy it, or would dry plate 120 be stupid?
>>
>>4283483
Experiment and post results, you might end up with something rly cool.

Prolly want to remove the pressure plate to fit them
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>>4283464
id go 250d, but would rather have 400' of 5222
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>>4283496
I am getting a spool of xx. Undecided on which vision3 film I want, so I'm getting a couple rolls of each of the cinestill versions to test out. Crazy expensive. Hopefully they're nice.
>>
>>4283486
>>4283483
Fuck it, I ordered 50 65mm dry plates from zebra and a sheet film back for my 120 camera.
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>>4283390
meaning isn't the same thing as tragic. A photo can be meaningful without it's subjects being serious.

>you don't expect to see women dressed in edwardian clothing skateboading lul so randum
The problem is that the photo is chaos for the sake of novelty. It's similar to smut photography in that it's focus is downward towards base instinct. It doesn't mean the images are uninteresting or not creative. I agree it's visually striking and a strong vibe. It's clearly taken by someone who is talented. They're just wasting their talent on noise
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>>4283515
Nice! I look forward to seeing what you do with them!
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>>4283508
noooo nigga nooo!

People sell respooled Vision 3 no need to buy cinestill stuff, hell your local lab probably sells them.
>>
I'm looking for some recommendations for a film body. I'm completely new, so I'm thinking about bodies from the 90s/00s that have built in light meters, so it's a seamless conversion. I'd like the mount to have plentiful manual focus glass which isn't wildly expensive. I was looking at Nikon, but it's lens compatibility is so confusing that I gave up trying to figure out what lenses will work with a given camera.

Other thoughts?
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Just bought a pen ee on ebay
What am I in for bros

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>>4283527
That's actually a good idea. I will be processing them with c41 chemistry so they work well with ra4 printing. I can also see how much I hate dealing with the remjet layer. Thanks.
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>>4283528
>I'm thinking about bodies from the 90s/00s that have built in light meters
there are bodies from the 70s with battery powered light meter. Needle light meter mind you but still usable.

Depends, I will always recommend just starting with a M42 body because you can use glass from a wide range of manufactures, from german and jap of nice quality to german (east) and soviet meme shit (its also good most of the time anyway)

And again depends, if you want the full silver brick experience a M42 would be good for this. If you are less into that and just want to shoot film because and are too used to digital a Minolta body or a Canon one (Even more if you have EF glass already) would be better option, but they are to plastic for me so I can't recommend exact models.
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>>4283536
>just want to shoot film because and are too used to digital
It's basically this. The list of stuff I need to learn is already pretty long, and it seems like good quality light meters are expensive. So I figured I'd just take the path of least resistance then upgrade into the silver brick experience later if I find that I like film.
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>>4283529
You're in for pictures. Lots of them
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>>4283528
>I was looking at Nikon, but it's lens compatibility is so confusing that I gave up trying to figure out
Literally any Nikon lens from like 1957 until now. Any ai or ais glass will be good enough.
Or go canon and use the plentiful FD lenses.
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>>4283530
Just don't let the stains dry and you're good
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>>4283549
>go canon and use the plentiful FD lenses
I second this. Canon's FD "L" lenses outperform comparable SLR lenses by a significant margin (this is still somewhat true today). Just ignore the FD 24mm f1.4 L which is stupid expensive now for no good reason at all.
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>>4283528
Nikon F5
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>>4283528
k mount is probably the easiest to mix and match. Aside from the new digital lenses with no aperture rings, it pretty much all just works. I have a Sears KS auto that I keep a Pentax A lens on, and a Chinon camera and Chinon lens, and a Pentax AF body with Pentax AF lenses and it can all mix and match. The Sears is great I use it on aperture priority all the time.

I do kinda want to get a F100 or something so I can put my Nikon DSLR lenses on but that's just my GAS flaring up.
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Reminder, if your camera has a battery you are a trash photographer. 100% manual control or nothing.

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>>4283581
>Nikon F5
honestly if "plentiful manual focus glass" is an important point then I'd say an F4 over an F5. The F4 can mount non-AI lenses while the standard F5 cannot.
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>>4283583
let me guess, you use a mechanical shutter instead of holding your hand in front of the lens like a real photographer?
what a poseur
>>
>>4283528
>>4283528
These anons have the right idea desu
>>4283549
>>4283560
The sheer amount of good FD lenses for the price is insane. The 50mm 1.4ssc and 28mm 2.8 NFD lenses are great for the money. Also yes L lenses are good, just not in the average Canonfag's budget. The EOS bodies use early EF lenses and are incompatible with newer EF-S glass. I'm gonna buy an EOS body at some point as I have an EF 50mm, but I'd honestly recommend an older body compatible with FD lenses. You'll have much cheaper options and find more lenses around in stores and even online.

My best glass recs for price/quality is really any 50mm prime. I own most of the basic ones and they're not super different overall. 50mm 1.4SSC with the red lettered front is my personal fave because it looks sexy as hell on any FD body. Other main lenses I use are the NFD 28mm f2.8 and 35mm f3.5.

If you want a digital-esque experience, you can get a T70. Ugly little thing but after having owned one for a few years, the metering's still dead on, has a few little metering modes, and can use all the FD/FL lenses you could ever buy. Cheap as hell used, I bought mine for like 50 bucks in person. The controls are a little unintuitive, but it was a stepping stone between the silver/black bricks and molded black plastic eras. Also the shutter's pretty loud if that matters. It was my 2nd film camera and I still really enjoy it when I break it out.

Sidenote: Nikon's good if you know what the hell you're looking at. If you buy a newer body some older lenses won't work quite right on it. You have to really do your research or go to a trusted camera shop to know what'll be best.
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>>4283593
why yes, I shoot 8x10
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Man this thing its so retarded looking...but so cute.
convince me not to buy one
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>>4283601
Buy it. It's fun owning cameras.

>>4283598
Are you for real?
>>
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A couple cow pics. These are not nearly as good as the first ones, but I figured I would share a couple. Portra 400 in 120 is just so nice, especially using my planar rolleiflex.

Anyone know if the 120 rolls of gold 200 the same as ultramax in 35mm? I am a little confused about the labeling of the films. I ordered 10 rolls to play around with.

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Just these 2.

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Does anyone know what this weird thing is? I've been developing my own color film, and I am still trying to figure out when I need to refresh my developer. I've gone through something like 10ish rolls with my current batch. The pack says 24, but I think I will refresh regardless.

I've noticed that c41 is a bit more finicky and prone to weird things showing up on my film than b&w. Would a roller processor produce better results than doing inversions by hand? I saw one that attaches to paterson tanks, and does auto temp compensation. Don't think it is crazy expensive like jobo processors.

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>>4283613
Anon you got your pubes all over this one.
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>>4283620
Dog hair, and maybe one pube. IM SORRY! My anti static cloth is getting delivered tommorow.
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>>4283624
I might have to try that, My scans look like that no matter how well I clean them.
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>>4283627
If you want really clean negatives use canned air and then swipe it once through an anti static cloth. I believe that fast moving air will actually create a static charge on the film, so you must remove that after blasting it.
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>>4283630
I usually just give it a quick blow and hope for the best,
I use epson V600 and the ICE software does a decent job but seems to soften the scans quite a bit.
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>>4283631
Yeah, I hate how softening the dang ice is on silverfast. I also don't care enough to edit the hair out in lightroom even if it is pretty quick and easy.
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>>4283635
Depending on how much I like the photo I will remove all of it in darktable. But alot of the time just the obvious stuff and leave the rest.
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>>4283637
You should post some good, but hairy pictures so I'm not the only one posting dirty negatives, lol. It's pretty funny how upset some people get about it.
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>>4283641
Most of my "good" photos are cleaned up.
But here is one that I sorta cleaned and gave up.
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>>4283641
And here is one I have not cleaned and partially edited.
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>>4283648
>>4283647
Very nice hairs and pics. Taking pictures in clubs is quite fun. I went to a loud ass mexican club with some friends a few weeks back and was drunkenly taking all sorts of pictures. My street photographer self came back for the night.

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They did not mind. Even using the little flash on my t3.

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>>4283667
My fave of the shots, These are super mexican.
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>>4283668
Haha, yes. Modelos in everyone's hands, extremely loud music, rodeo on the tv, cowboy hats, and more BBLs than I've ever seen in one room. It was fun and the tacos were good. An interesting and new photography experience as well!

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>>4283670
Here have some white guys in cowboy hats.

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>>4283670

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>>4283601
My first film SLR.
Do it.
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>>4283671
>>4283672
Based. We are more similar than we are different! Hahaha. I've been to some barrel races, but never a rodeo. Looks like a fun spot to bring a camera with a fast and zoomy lens.

I like the tone of those images. It suits the subject nicely.
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>>4283675
Thanks Anon.
All I had at the time was an olympus stylus but happy with what I got.
>>
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>>4283597
>50mm 1.4SSC with the red lettered front is my personal fave because it looks sexy as hell on any FD body
Agree. By the way, what's the consensus on FD zooms? I was considering getting a prime 85mm, but I know I'm lazy and I'd just end up never bothering to switch between lenses.
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>>4283515
>>4283483
>>4283486
How do i meter for UV light? Dryplates are only sensitive to UV and blue light so outside it should be simple enough to get a UV guide but indoors I have no idea.

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>>4283680
I had a 70-210 FD that was fine. I also currently own a Vivitar Series 1 70-210. Im not a zoom guy so can't say I use it at all, but the glass between the 2 is at least equally good. Some say the Vivi is even better. Again not gonna sway you bc I dont use them hardly.
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Drying marks or dog hairs?

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>>4283680
35-70 f4 and 35-105 f3.5 are decent as is the 80-200 f4L. in general the 3rd party options are mostly trash especially the f2.8 standard zooms.

For FD mount best to stick to the canon primes.
>>
what is the verdict on collapsible ltm lenses on a canon p?
elmar 50/3.5 or the three variants of collapsible industar 50/3.5
is there a risk to damage the baffles and does this actually matter?
>>
>>4283752
I see what looks to be a hair, but the white circles look like old fixer that has started to set up and the white balls of shit stick to the film leaving those spots.
>>
>>4283752

What film? I get that shit so often with Foma film and chemicals
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>>4283791
Shit, I meant to ask what do you prefer drying marks or dog hairs lmao. But yeah old fixer and forgot to add photoflo.
>>4283794
HP5, but its more of my fixer fault I think

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>>4283735
>Uv
Idk
>Blue light
Meter as normal unless you're taking a picture of an indian in a red dress infront of a red barn in a field of red poppies, then you might wanna compensate a little bit.
>>
where are those price cuts i was promised
tri x is still fucking €15 per roll
>>
>>4283803
Bulk load xx
>>
I want to start taking contemporary selfshot dick pics on film. I have experience with digital photography and with cell phone snapshit dick pics. What are some good camera/lens combos i should look into for these kind of close distance shots? Planning on holding the camera to take shots i don't want to set up some remote trigger bullshit.
Also any reccomendations for development services that are okay with "artistic nudity"?;
>>
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>>4283817
shoot black and white film and develop yourself.

also one of these
>>
>>4283817
For you? A macro lens, or just get a monorail view camera. I suspect you'll need around 3 feet of bellows extension. The nice part about a monorail camera is the amount of movement you can do with it. Tilting the rear standard will change the perspective making things look larger than they really are.
>>
>>4283680
The 35-70/4 with the weird internal zoom is sharp as shit, but it does have strong distortion, and realistically you'll want to pair it with a flash.
>>4283314
is this the same photo you keep reposting? why?
>>4283238
The EM's wind action is nicer than any other NIKON tbqh, and in aperture priority you'll get exactly the same results. EM is smaller and lighter. It's the woman's Nikon.
>t. owns both
Shoot slower film or stop down if you're worried about shutter capping. Spend the money on a nicer lense instead.
>>
>>4283837
That's a new one. I don't think I have posted any from that batch, although it is fairly similar to the medium format one I have posted 2 or 3 times.
>>
>>4283809
does it do as well latitude wise?
>>
>>4283842
You can buy it from ebay and other places if you want to test it before buying a big roll. Im doing that with the whole vision3 lineup to see which one I will get a spool of.

All my stuff to start bulk loading xx from a 400' spool will be here on monday. I'll be posting a bunch of pics.
>>
You guys like the cine film with the jizz layer removed so its easier to devlop at home?
Should i try some?
>>
>>4283849
Apparently you can use warm water and just rub it off with a clean finger before stabilizing and after rinsing.
Chemically borax or something removes it with a lot of shaking.
I'll be posting an extensive review of my findings in about a week. I ordered 3 rolls of each type.
>>
>>4283849
My diy self is stsrting to ponder machining a mechanism to cut 65mm cine film to bulk load 120 format rolls. A 400 foot roll of 65mm vision3 is around 700 dollars and you get like 150+ rolls from it. Pretty big savings considering how amazing vision3 film looks.
>>
>>4283856
Any base will work, just don't use concentrated NaOH. Even baking soda will do, just don't soak the film in it for more than a minute and don't let it get warmer than 25C
>>
>>4283862
Have you tried both chemical and mechanical? I worry about tainting my patterson tanks if I chemically remove them.
>>
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film is fun

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>>4283842
xx has less latitude than tri x. some people say its the slide film of black and white but its not that extreme
>>
>>4283873
SO TRUE!
>>
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It has arrived. Trolls on suicide watch.

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>>4283870
nta but remjet chemicals are a waste of time. On the real machines they have scrubby wheels that take it off, there is no chemical that takes it off without scrubbing. And by the time it's done with blix (blix and developer are both already strong bases) the remjet is already loose enough to rub off without any extra chemicals.
>>
All this AI shit makes me want to shoot film again because it's "actually real". But I'd probably scan the negatives anyways so there's no point.
>>
>>4283902
translation:
I AM A HUGE FAGGOT PLEASE RAPE MY FACE
>>
>>4283890
>remjet chemicals are a waste of time
on the contrary, you gain time since the chemicals make the remjet pretty much fall off with just a wipe or two
>the remjet is already loose enough to rub off without any extra chemicals
good luck getting your chemicals contaminated
>>4283870
>1L of water
>1g of Sodium Hydroxide
>20g of deca-hydrated borax
>100g of anhydrous sodium sulfate
leave the film in it for a minute and then rinse completely (get the spiral off the tank and rinse it under the sink in the dark)
>>4283902
cronically retarded
>>
>>4283890
yeah nigga but those machines are processing a shitton and on ECN-2 if you are going to process the film on C41 you need to remove the remjet
>>
>>4283905
Ty for the recipe. At what stage in the dev process do you do that step?
>>
>>4283907
you're welcome
be sure to buy the right chemicals
it's all pretty unexpensive and since you use almost nothing it'll last for a long time, just be sure to store it properly and all that
>At what stage in the dev process do you do that step?
first step of development
I'd suggest you use the formula on a test strip to see if everything works fine
you can put the film in the developing spiral, put it in a bucket and put distilled water on a second bucket and then just do this part in complete darkness
>leave film in formula for 1min
>put it in the water bucket and shake it well to remove the remjet
>you can use an additional bucket of water to further rinse it and not contaminate your tank and chemicals for them to be used again
I don't know if this formula will react to the developing chemicals, so do some tests
>>
>>4283908
Ahhh, gotcha. I saw a video where someone did that, but in their patterson tank with vigorous agitation. Maybe I will get a small patterson tank to test with. I won't have a good darkroom for a little while.
>>
>>4283912
that's a good alternative
the water will come out completely black
rinse 2-3 times or until it comes out clear
I'm not super into developing my own film, it's been a long time since I've done this
But this is the formula my lab uses
>>
>grab my trusty film camera
>focus ring is stuck
what the fuck, this is so sudden
>>
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My friends, what are your thoughts on this device? 380 doll hairs pre order.

I am exceedingly lazy when it comes to dsveloping film, so anything to make it more convenient and consistent is appealing to me.

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ago-film-processor-film-developing-made-easy?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=gog&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAibeuBhAAEiwAiXBoJDFx0v4GqMR6lL62m-_T8KRwd-0ePAdvfPMChzmIb8hahXWo99_5PhoCSkwQAvD_BwE#/

On a side note I pulled out the big boy tank for the first time. Only doing 3 rolls of 120 in it. 1.8L of dev solution. Heavy and the inversions are intense.

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>>4283944
>anything to make it more convenient and consistent is appealing to me
not sure about the consistency part with this
those big tanks tend to not have enough flow to let the chemicals in quickly, which means the top roll will be immersed in chemicals for (sometimes noticeably) less time than the bottom one, leading to inconsistency
But I think that only happens if you're a moron and don't pour your chemicals at a reasonable speed
>>
>>4283950
The indiegogo link not my big tank.

It is a stirrer/roller that fits on patterson tanks that automatically compensates for temp.
>>
>>4283955
aah cool
sorry, I assumed the link was for the tank in the photo
it's late and I'm lazy, sorry
>>
>>4283957
Hey, no worries. I had a feeling I should have posted a pic of the developer thing.
>>
>>4282707
Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG or 50mm f/1.4 ART
>>
Anyone have experience with the canon 1v?
>>
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Got b/w scans back.

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>>4283984
all of it is pushed HP5 pushed to 1600.

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>>4283985

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>>4283990

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>>4283991
I took this with my FED 2? Is this light leaks? Holes in the shutter curtain? Both?

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>>4283993
no idea, but it looks cool though
>>
>>4282719
the pancake 40mm is elite. it lives on my eos 630
>>4282744
home dev
>>4283944
>Heavy and the inversions are intense.
just semi stand it
>>
>>4283990
wtf man? that Contrast button did nothing wrong, stop pushing it!
>>
>>4284001
Can never have enough contrast. Also this one was delta 3200 so.
>>
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>>4284001

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>>4283905
>remjet pretty much fall off with just a wipe or two
>good luck getting your chemicals contaminated
Are you rubbing it off before development, in the dark? Yes, that is how real ECN2 works but what a pain in the ass. The normal way is to rub the remjet at the very end when the film is light safe and you can see when you've got it all off. And by that time the remjet is already loose so why bother with extra chemicals? Never had a problem with my chemicals due to remjet, it's completely inert.
>>
>>4283950
>immersed in chemicals for (sometimes noticeably) less time than the bottom one
but when you pour it out, the bottom roll is the first to be 'removed' from chemicals
>>
>>4284054
I'll have test shots processed with c41 chemistry by the end of next week. Im pretty excited to see how nice this stuff is, and which one is my favorite!

I will also be trying the two different remjet removal techniques, and share my thoughts.
>>
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>>4283990
fellow 1600chad, love these.

>>4283993
big flare's a light leak behind the film somewhere, check the film back. also shine a bright light thru the front of each shutter curtain in a dimly lit room. on color film frontal light leaks are typically white, rear leaks typically orange

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First time taking film shots in probably 2 decades. The film expired in 2009
>>
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>>4284130
>>
>>4284130
ass
>>4284132
kino
>>
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Holding one of these for the first time is deeply satisfying. Bulk loader is arriving later today!

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>>4284221
Jesus Christ I'm an anxious person, I'd rip my ass apart from the inside if I received a can of film before I got the bulk loader. Seems nice as fuck, good luck!
>Question:
I'm looking for a tripod that is sturdy enough for a Mamiya RB67 but also compact enough to carry around since I mainly shoot in urban areas etc.
I've never had a tripod and I'm not used to shooting with one, although I have used tripods on a few occasions several years ago
>what do I need to look for in a tripod?
>what are reliable brands to look out for?
>what are cheap yet good options? (like old ass tripods etc.)
>>
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>>4284223
Well lucky for me the loader has arrived a few days early! I totally get why this thing is so expensive now. Very nice construction.

Now to figure out how to load this thing!!

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>>4284236
Absolute unit
>>
>>4284236
>one day... one day I'll bulk load stuff too...
this looks super well built
Aren't you the anon who posted a link to this bulk loader in the past thread?
If so, it was actually super quick to arrive
>>
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>finish shooting a roll and rewind it
>pop open the camera
>it wasn't fully rewound
>>
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Absolutely terrifying, but also easier than expected.
Now I have this sweet tin to put stuff in! Time to go take dog pics, and pray that I didn't muck this up somehow...

>>4284238
Yep. The website says it takes like a month+ because they are built to order. Must have had one ready to go.

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>>4284247
or maybe they use my special work technique:
you say something takes 3 weeks to do, you do it in one week and a half and then the client says "holy shit on top of being good this guy also works fast!"
Everyone gets happy
But seriously, I think they say it takes a month because they can deliver all orders even when they're in a busy period
Always leave room for delays
>>
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Okay, got my first couple of snapshit/testshot rolls done. Some light leak at the beginning of the rolls, but other than that it is perfect.

I REALLY like the look of xx. Very pretty grain, and nice tonality. There are some portraits of a friend that came out so nice. Looking forward to making prints with this film.

These are rodinal semi stand, but my second one is a weird hc110 recipe with a pre soak. I'll post some of those when they dry.

>>4284256
That was my second thought, and is probably spot on.

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EXTREME SIDE EYE!

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>yeah bro Jap cameras were made with better standards
>motherfuckers just glued the mirror
Fuck you Yashica
>>
>>4284301
Just glue it back!
>>
>>4284301
hey, I mean, Canon did it too...
>>
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>>4284298
Welcome to team xx. You can rate XX at 800 and do the following with hc110:
10ml developer in 500ml water. Agitate first minute, then 10s at 3, 6, 9, 12 minutes. Stop at 14min. That was my go-to recipe before switching to Tmax dev for unrelated reasons.

Pic semi-related xx @ 800 in Tmax dev

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>>4284302
Might do it, just literally picked it for 10 bucks but the mirror came out after two photos lmao
>>4284305
man that is cheap not even soviet shit did that


Also picked this Prakticar 55-200 just out of curiosity, I haven't been able to find sample pictures so I dont know how good or bad it is, seems like it has something in the inner elements. Doesn't look like fungus to me, could be grease from the aperture blades?

I might take it to the repair shop but I was wondering if anyone has either used one or had encountered something like that to know if its worth trying fixing it.
>>
>>4284309
How does XX at 800 compare with HP5 at 800?
>>
>>4284311
not the person you asked, but XX is already rather grainy at its nominal speed (iso 250), whereas HP5 is very fine grained and its box speed is iso 400 (so 2/3 stops faster)
HP5 at 800 is barely noticeable
XX at 800 is gritty, especially in harsh light
How you'll process it will also play a huge part in the final result, though
But like... it's not like you can't just Google it and see for yourself how you like it
>>
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These next ones used this recipe

4 minute pre soak
Hc110 1+31
20c
30 seconds agi at beginning
4 inversions every minute.
4 minutes total dev time.

Which do you like better??

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do UV/skylight filters degrade image quality? I have a toyo optics filter, a vivitar filter, and a B+W filter that doesn't look as nice as the other two
>>
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All my pics were taken at 200 iso.

The grain seems a lot finer on this batch, and higher contrast. I love the grain on the rodinal stand dev, but it is also a bit much. I think that extreme graininess could be used as a sort of artistic element in your photography, while the hc110 makes it a more standard sort of all purpose b/w film. Both are nice, and the difference is cool to see.

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Flash.

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Schlop.

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Are you impressed by my enormous beet? This thing is basketball sized. A real monster. Probably over 10lbs in weight.

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>>4284323
why would you flash a ridiculously bright light directly on your dog's face?
>>
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>>4284335
He doesn't mind. It's just a lil baby flash also.

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>>
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Guys... I think this is my best macro shot yet, and a well earned one at that.

I was walking the dog, and noticed these balls of algae in one of the water troughs. They're a lavender purple. I knew it needed to be done, so I went out in the middle of the cold and super foggy night with my 4x5 kit, and used a flashlight to prepare the camera and light the scene. The exciting part is that I took a shot of this scene with ektar as well... I still have 2 or 3 sheets of color to take, so it may be a while until I develop those pictures.

Can you spot the fish? :]
>>
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Here are 3 more from my batch. Photoshop keeps freezing on the 4th.
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>>4284532

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>>4284532

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>>
How based is this camera?

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>>
My Minolta Maxxum lenses are 49mm filter threads. Should I use my Tiffen BPM 1/8 filter off my X100V on the lenses to give them an extra film like effect? Also what film should I buy? I have expired rolls of Natura 1600 and Ektar 100 from 2014 or so. Haven't into film in a decade.
>>
>>4284604
What do you mean by extra film like effect?

Use them as warm up rolls. They may have some color shift or whatever, but it shouldn't be too big of a deal if you're scanning.

What do you want to take pics of? Usually that's a good place to start when choosing film.
>>
why SHOULDNT i buy a leica iiif?
tired of shooting russian shit
>yes i want thread mount
>no i will not buy your meme bessa or jap
>>
>>4284735
because a leica M2 or M3 with an LTM to M adapter is better
>>
>>4284741
bigger, heavier, and like 5 times the price
>>
>>4284744
completely fair, in that case look at the iiig for the parallax corrected viewfinder at twice the price instead
if that isnt interesting go for the iiif
>>
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>>4284735
>>4284744
>wants to shoot ltm
>cared about weight and price
>wants an ancient iiif with a peephole vf and terrible loading system instead of lightweight bessa r with amazing viewfinder and standard loading or the even cheaper and lighter bessa L for scale focus snapshittery

lol poser

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>>
>>4282747
awsome photo
>>
>>4284735
Leicas are the real meme lole
>>
>>4284054
>The normal way
at the lab where I worked was naoh+borax for 10-20s, drain, wash, wash, dev. No soot in chemicals, no soot on film after processing. Only exception-super expired stuff, and I mean Agfa XT320 expired
>>
>>4284735
Buy a Canon 7 rangefinder
>>
>>4282747
Stain/shadow on her dress looks like leaky tit kek
>>
>>4282645
I've been shooting digital but I'd love to get into film, including developing my own pictures. I'm getting my dad's Canon AE1 next month, and would love to develop film myself. Would anybody be willing to point me to a newbie-friendly tutorial? I've looked at the links in the OP but there's too much info. I'm looking to do B&W in the beginning. Thanks!
>>
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>>4282747
sauce on boots?
>>4284503
metal album cover

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>>
Got this beautiful Gossen Lunasix 3 lightmeter today and can't wait to go out and shoot in low light with it (got a lot of work to do, though)
On the right is my grandpa's old selenium lightmeter that still works like a charm, but can't read shit in pretty much any dim light condition
Btw I'm using hearing aid batteries on the Lunasix 3
Can I use two LR44 on it and compensate on the ISO wheel?
I do it with my Rollei 35: it uses 1.35V batteries, but I just put a 1.5V LR44 in it and the readings are perfect if I just select 2/3 stops down the actual ISO
For example, for 400 ISO film I select ISO 250 on the camera and the readings match my external lightmeter
>>
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>>4284825
Forgot to add the fucking photo

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>>
>>4284808
The manual for every film camera I've had has had short tutorials for both the camera and how film photography in general. Always a good start.
>>
>>4284836
this
>>4284808
>https://www.butkus.org/chinon/canon/canon_ae-1/canon_ae-1.htm
Download the manual and read it ALL
That's always the best way to get to know your camera apart from actually using it
Watch videos of it on youtube to know the kinks and tricks of it, the flaws and stuff that the manual won't tell you
Also go on Reddit and search for Canon AE-1 on r/analogcommunity, you'll possibly find useful stuff there from previous discussions
Put a test roll on it, check to see if it advances properly, if there's anything stuck, if there are lightleaks etc.
That's it, basically
>>
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>>4284223
Give up on the compact part of your plan.
You should be able to find a manfrotto 190 secondhand that will do the job.
Ideally you want something with fat carbon tubes and a large diameter ballhead, but they aren't cheap.
Even with a solid tripod, you need to ensure you're shooting mirror lockup on these as well or you will certainly get a double image shooting city lights.

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>>4284840
>You should be able to find a manfrotto 190 secondhand that will do the job.
nigga it costs literally 12 times the one I'm planning on buying
maybe a couple years from now I'll buy some serious tripod if I get fond of it
It's like someone asking what cheap car to buy just to go to work and back and you recommend them a Corvette
I'm not a professional photographer on anything, I just wanna shoot some buildings and stuff every once in a while
>>
>>4284836
>>4284839
Sorry, maybe that came out wrong. I'm looking for an intro to film development, printing, scanning.
>>
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>>4284864
Buy a Patterson system 4 tank. It'll come with two reels. You need to also buy a way to measure chemicals, measure temperature, and store chemicals. Cheapest route is getting stuff from the dollar store as these are not film developing specific items. For bw chemicals you need a developer and a fixer. I'd opt for something with long shelf life like Kodak hc110. For fixer just get whatever is cheaper. I switch between kodafix and Ilford rapid fix.

Stoked to finally be getting some sunny days. Been shooting more because of it. Two more rolls hanging to dry

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>>
>>4284922
Really nice picture. Simple + nice is often times the most difficult, but best type of photograph to take.
>>
What is the easiest or fastest way to cut a roll of 65mm film down to fit 120 spools? I've been using a slitter from ebay but it is very slow and imperfect. There has to be a better way to do this.
>>
>>4284931
You could make a giant pair of "scissors" that cuts the whole ass rectangle out in one go.
Notice the film leader cutter I got on the right of this image. >>4284236 You align the film, and press down on the top and it scissors out the perfect leader.

Make a giant on that could go through multiple strips at a time.

Are you bulk loading 120? How is it? I am very very tempted to dabble.
>>
do you guys remember or somehow keep track of the parameters when you take the photo? Like the f stop, exposure, and the shutter speed. I think not having those is the biggest issue with film for me as I literally can't learn and improve from past photos.
>>
>>4284935
f8 and be there.

That is
>>
>>4284935
You can't remember your settings??? There are cameras that keep track. I believe the canon 1v does, but I may be mistaken.
>>
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>>4284935
bro...
>>
>>4284939
Also Minolta A7, Nikon f5 and F6.
>>
Thoughts on this?

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>>4285005
Seems snake-oily. I think if flatness was as chronic an issue as his claimed, the big manufacturers would’ve done something to address it in their cameras at some point.
>>
>>4285008
I heard that aerial cameras use vacuum backs to hold the film perfectly flat. I have also heard they use large spools of film, so maybe it is more important to suck the film flat than with single sheets.

Also the contax rts3 uses a vacuum back to hold the film flat. Kinda goofy on a 35mm camera, but it does produce some very sharp photos.

I bet the difference would be marginal at best unless you REALLY needed that little bit of extra sharpness.
>>
>>4285011
Contax also did this in the 80's and 90's with their medium format AND 35mm cameras.
>>
>>4284935
get a pen and an A4 sheet of stickers, pre-cut. take photos. then write the settings (as well as meter reading/light value) on a sticker and paste it on a roll. you should be able to shoot the majority of a roll with relatively the same settings. if you take a month to finish a roll you have bigger problems
>>
>>4284221
>5222
beautiful
>>
>>4285020
I knew about the 35mm, and own one of those cameras. I really love my rts3 a lot. It's such a snappy camera with a great shutter sound, and wonderful lenses. My XX shots in this thread were taken using one.

I was unaware of the medium format vacuum backs. Sadly they were only for 220, and the contax 645 is absurdly priced now, so it is out of the cards for the time being.
>>
>>4284841
>nigga it costs literally 12 times the one I'm planning on buying
I told you to find one secondhand you drooling fucking moron.
Buying anything for 1/12 the price is just choosing to pay 1/12th extra for the one you eventually get, because the first one will go straight in the fucking trash where it belongs when you find it won't even hold your camera off the ground.
Manfrotto have been making "190" tripods for 40 (forty) years. You found $500 to buy a mamiya RB, you can find $50 for a used tripod.
>>
>>4285005
>>4285020
There is about 0% chance that the camera moves less than 21uM when you insert the film holder. Maybe if it's some cheap really thin film rather than the normal thicker large format film base. Just stop down to f/64 and don't worry about it.
>>
what's the concensus with scanners? dedicated film scanners or regular ones? looking to snag a second hand one
>>
>>4285051
A regular one won't scan film, so that should answer that.

A decent digital camera with macro lens will outperform almost all dedicated scanners in terms of sharpness and resolution.
>>
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>>4285039
does YOUR camera vacuum the film? didn't think so
>>
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Been going through some old stuff when I found these; from my grandad's trips to Israel and Hong Kong.
>>
>>4285051
i recently bought a scrapheap of an ls 4000 that i had to clean it, replace the firewire ICs, and basically duct tape the case together
never considered digital camera scanning since i dont own a digital camera and i assume its a bit more work in post (cropping, cleaning) than what i can get direcly from a dedicated scanner
it might be a bit slow, but modding an sa-21 to take complete rolls i can just start it and forget it until its done
here is a scan for reference >>4279172
all in all i paid about €300 for it, sa 21, ma 20, firewire pcie card, firewire cable, and the new TSB41AB3 and SAA7356HL ICs
>>
>>4285062
i got some old laptops with ports for anything, an old scanner might be good
>>
>>4285051
Strictly speaking you can scan negatives with a regular scanner, but quality will be atrocious. Dedicated film scanners are either expensive and shit, extremely expensive and slightly less shit, or insanely expensive and decent to good. At any price bracket you can just get a digital camera with a good macro lens and jury-rig a scanning apparatus that will give you better results.
>>
>>4285034
This price *IS* for a secondhand one, you raging faggot
Because this shit is imported and even though they've made it for 40 years it doesn't mean there's a shitload of those in my country because THANK GOD I'm not from 'Murica
>Buying anything for 1/12 the price is just choosing to pay 1/12th extra for the one you eventually get
This only makes sense *if* I eventually buy the expensive one later
Making a rough conversion the Manfrotto 190 I could find would be roughly equivalent to $500
The one I'm intending to buy is like $50
If you find a Manfrotto 190 for $50 let me know because I'd gladly pay it plus shipping
>>
>>4285070
My dude asking for gear advice when not specifying you live in the third world is your fault. Just buy whatever feels sturdy enough. There's no point in any of us recommending anything because who the fuck knows where you live and how likely it is you'll find what we recommend in the slum garbage heap next to your shanty.
>>
>>4285073
Still better than having a professional tripod with a 4x5 to shoot the lamest fucking photos I've ever seen of leaves and rocks lol
And yes, I know you're the overgeared anon obsessed with your tripod and shit that can't get a leaf in focus
Seethe harder
>>
>>4285075
sounds like you're the one coping and seething over not having a tripod
>>
>>4285078
>no u
lmao you're the leaves and rocks faggot indeed
come back when you can get a leaf in focus after setting up your 4x5 with your sturdy Man-Froggo 9/11 and flashes and God knows what more to take the most monkey-tier composed shot
>>
>>4285081
na im just some passerby that saw you throwing a shitfit over this guy genuinely trying to help you
>>
>>4285085
He is so angry and stupid he is mixing up multiple anons. Amusing. I own a Gitzo tripod with an arca swiss cube attached. He really is stupid!
>>
>>4284814
SLP Wyatt boots
>>
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I want to get into developing B&W, but I don't have a way of scanning the developed film.

I could drop a few hundred on a Plustek scanner, or go all the way and invest in a mirrorless camera & lens for digital scanning. Or, I could develop the film and send it off to a lab for scanning, but that seems kind of stupid. What would you do?
>>
>>4285119
Get an enlarger. Printing and developing B&W isn't particularly difficult, the hardest part is having a dedicated darkroom, or temporarily lightproofing a room. Alternatively you can try and find a public darkroom, you might be lucky and find one near you.
>>
>>4285121
Based.
>>
>>4285075
You're arguing with at least 3 different people dawg. YOU'RE the dumbass
>>
>>4285070
>>4285073
>>4285075
>>4285081
>>4285085
>>4285101
I'm so glad my tripod recommendation was able to spur such intelligent debate.
As I've said many times, anon posting is the only correct way to use fourchannel, but it does mean that emotionally fragile people unable to think critically will definitely stickytape together random posts to build imaginary monsters they can fight.
What fun.
In researching this post reply, I learned that at its peak (presumably pre-china ecommerce era), Manfrotto made 3/4 of all the tripods sold on earth. That realistically means that even in a third world shithole, if you can't find one that its current owner values less than a day's pay then you probably aren't looking.
>life must be really challenging for you in that 3rd world shithole btw, what with your english skills, internet access and passion for vintage professional photo equipment, i'm so sorry to have presumed you were just a lazy privileged zoomer who hates hearing the word no
>>
So my brother gifted me an Agfa Optima Sensor 535, it worked great for the first 4-5 rolls, but now it has a weird problem.
Every few shots, the shutter won’t run until I start moving the lever again.
Like I run the lever, hit the button, I hear a click, but the light meter keeps running and I hear another click once I wiggle the lever again. I think it’s a problem with the lever mechanism but I can’t be sure.
I think I can get it to work if I just wiggle the lever a little every time I run it, before taking the shot, but I don’t want to have to do that forever.
I can’t find anything online about it, I went to my local camera store and they couldn’t help me, the only vintage camera repair service I was able to find near me just closed for good last month.
Help me bros, what do I do? I don’t want to just shelf this thing because I was pretty happy with the pictures I did get.
>>
>>4283597
>EF-S
EF-S means lenses for APS-C, so of course they won't work with FF film bodies.. Amazingly, film EF Canons should work with newest EF full frame lenses - although with third parties can be wonky. Kinda wanna try Sigma 40 1.4 ART on film; lens sharper wide open than any film besides CMS20 can resolve.

>>4285119
If you don't have a digital camera yet and only plan on scanning 35mm, Plustek is the way to go. Just don't invest into flatbeds, and when you finally get your digital camera, throw in a macro lens and a Chinese scanning holder.

>>4284223
>>4285187
I got a Fotopro X-Aircross 2 that I use with 4x5 and Bronica S2A, both a tiny bit lighter than an RB. Love chinese carbon fiber tripods, super light, although now I would probably go with Ulanzi Zero Y instead. Picrel taken using this tripod. When I had an RB67, I used it with a Manfrotto Element Traveller that worked fine too. Your technique may matter more than the tripod itself - keeping the center column low, adding weight to the bottom, using mirror up if possible (RB has that, S2A doesn't), and waiting for vibrations to stop.

All in all if you can, it would be best to bring your gear to a store to try out some options they might have, then of course thank the clerk and buy the tripod online.

>>4285199
Sounds like a broken plastic gear. You could try to open it to see what's wrong, but no guarantees. Or you can treat it as a reason to upgrade to Optima 1535~
>>
>>4285121
>public darkroom
I can't even find a public restroom where I live
>>
>>4284300
LMAO that side eye is crazy hahahahaha

>>4284221
nice! i really need to get my hands on some 100ft reels... i have a bulk loader but haven't commited to spending the money on the film just yet
>>
>>4285222
i found a cheap enlarger for $15 a couple years ago even came with a lens and copy stand. i still use that lens and copy stand for my intrepid enlarger
>>
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>>4284021
love the grain. double x?

>>4283985
nice


>>4283993
nice photo! bummer about the light leaks. check the curtain! unforunatley it looks like it might also be that there's an opening in the actual curtain letting light in from the bottom and corner area. same thing happened with my fed 3...

>>4283889
hahahaahahahahahaha

>>4283670
i like the idea here. huge potential for some kind of photo study here

>>4283583
100% the rest are faggots

>>4283365
sick ass photo
>>
>>4285233
This is a really conflicted photo
>the barbed wire and lighting suggests you're trying hard to make something good
>the deep aperture revealing it's just your apartment with the take out boxes and your fake leather couch undermine the whole photo

I feel like you need to either lean in the casual aspect or fully commit to the production
>>
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>>4285218
>Fotopro X-Aircross 2
But don't you understand bro, $350 IS LIKE $2300 in Bongolia, you may as well have asked him to synthesise yttrium in an icecream tub.

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>>4285278
~People in every direction~
~no words to exchange, no time to exchange ~
~ when all the little ants are marching ~
>>
>>4284864
https://youtu.be/MEN8G6z76_A?si=jhb6PzGtJhUVJONn

it's all over youtube and just a simple Google search. get the Ilford/Paterson dev kit and a couple extra pieces and you're set. I found that the hard part was finding the chems you want to use.
>>
>>4284247
Do you lose the last frame or two on each roll with this one (when you tape it to a cassette spool), or does it do some magic to prevent this?
I'd love to bulk load, but the thought that the last frame of each roll will be ruined completely kills the idea for me.
>>
>>4285310
>>4284021
thanks for the recs. Is grain a feature of the film or of the paper? Meaning, If I develop my film but then scan it digitally instead of enlarging it, can I still get the grainy effect?
>>
>>4285353
i bulk roll with a bulk loader but fully in the dark. i made a little device that helps me line up the film to the leader of the cassette. takes me about 1 hour to do 100ft. i pre-tape like 20 cassettes before so its easier.
>>
>>4285360
the grain is apart of the film. generally higher iso films have more pronounced grain (but also depends on the developer used and other stuff). roughly speaking, iso 50 film will basically have no visible grain. if you care about grain, i recommend shooting 200 or higher speed film. the grain will appear both if you scan or print from enlarger.
>>
>>4285363
understood, thanks! and with pushing/pulling, can I add more grain? Any other factors that affect grain other than the film's ISO?
>>
>>4285366
Pushing (underexposing, or exposing at higher ISO, and compensating in development) generally makes it more pronounced, pulling (overexposing, shortening development) less so. Basically just like in digital, if you shoot with higher sensitivity, you get more noise. But 400 speed film pulled to 100 will still have more grain than native 100 film.
>>
>>4285383
Thanks again. Would anybody happen to know where I can buy cheap film in europe?
>>
>>4285391
Foma, Svema. Bulk loaded they'll cost like a dollar per roll
>>
>>4285392
What site exactly? The cheapest I can find is Foma for $5, Svema for $7.
>>
>>4285391
fotoimpex, macodirect, ars-imago
>>
>>4285395
dude is exaggerating
bulk foma from fomaobchod is ~2.5€/roll for the film, 0.2€ for their canisters assuming you re-use them 5 times, and ~0.1-1€/roll for shipping depending on how much you buy at once

bulk colorfilm (ecn2) can be bought from mutascan or 35mmdealer
>>
>>4285353
It compensates for the loss by adding some extra at the beginning.
>>
new bread
(lets let these last 2 stew so they can enter into the archive)

>>4285486
>>4285486
>>4285486
>>
>>4285405
>dude is exaggerating
Not by a big margin, but it did get more expensive than I remember(picrelated)
>>4285395
Svema has and Instagram page, it's trustworthy but it's managed by a room temperature IQ+mental issues son of one of the astrum's co-founders. Better write to dmvarenik(at)(google's mail)(dot)c0m
I know it feels shady, but I promise it's legit. I just don't know if the contact form on their website ( astrum-ltd(dot)c0m) still works

LET ME POST 4CHAN FFS
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>>4283167
>>4283159
Cool photos. What are all the white spots from? I'm just getting into all this stuff, apologize if the answer is obvious. these two in partocular really look like they were taken in the 30s or something.
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>>4285920
Lazy scanning, and lazy development. The white streaks are called bromide drag, and the other stuff is just dust. I got an ilford anti static cloth that has basically solved the problem. I just pull the negative stripe through the cloth and it is pretty clean
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Guess the camera. It's a Canon, that's all I'll say
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Hello /fgt/'s, I'd like for you to give it to me straight concerning 120 film:
The last time I had anything to do with film was when I last used my pentax 35mm point&shoot compact 20 years ago. I've always been fascinated by TLR and have a chance to purchase a yashica or a rollei.
What I want to know is the viability of shooting 120 in [CURRENT YEAR]. The scattered times I've wandered into film threads here and elsewhere the takeaways I get, besides a sense of doom, have always been
>shit's so expensive now imma have to think about stopping (35mm)
>medium format is even worse
>keep everything in the fridge because everything's discontinued and the tap's going to run dry any day now

Did I miss the final train by a decade? Am I going to have much more of a hassle if I decide to go down this road now compared with even a few years ago?
Basically, is this folly and not a recommended course of action all things considered OR "go for it!"?



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