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File: toysoldiers.jpg (459 KB, 1676x1000)
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>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno [Embed]

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s [Embed]

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI [Embed]

>Darren Latham's 20 top tips for miniature painting success
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXNObqeNb8 [Embed]

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM [Embed]

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c [Embed]

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk [Embed]

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI [Embed]

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g [Embed]

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny
last thread
>>93865105
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>>93893590
I posted a few days ago but I finished another gnoll, I think he came out really well
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>>93893611
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>>93893616
>>93893611
He's pretty neat. I like his super-small pupils.
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>>93893678
thank you :)
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>>93893616
damn, I envy you. Wish I could paint muscles like that

>>93888236
Look at what you think is cool and paint that.

Don't just look Game workshop models either. Frostgrave, battletech, war machine, and 3d print shops that sell you printed models are much cheaper.

> but i want to learn how to properly paint first.
I suggest you abandon this mentality. You'll be very bored very quickly painting models that you only bought to "practice" with. Painting a model you like, even if it's poorly, will be more fun.

If you must, then at the very least buy some cheap 3d printed proxy models and fuck them up with a clear conscience since they were cheap.

For the wraithguard, guardians have similar texture and shapes. anything scaley/lizardy will help you paint the maw krusha but contrast paint is a good shortcut for decent scales. Get a sentinel, rhino, or killa kan to paint riveted armor plates. streaking grime and enamel washes are good for dirtying up the armor plates and rivets. there are plenty of tank painting tutorials out there.

as always, look on ebay, facebook groups, and your LGS before buying anything direct from GW directly.

I would also recommend paints but that's an whole other can of worms
>>
>>93893590
imagine marrying a piece of shit who nags you over your mini painting hobby
shit taste in wives
>>
How to stop greenstuff from sticking on my tools?
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>>93893798
Water or vaseline.
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>>93893756
Ya, with most people I deal with it's case of wifes either know and don't care..or wifes are the ones painting the models for fun.
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>>93893756
Mine went to a convention and came back with decently painter turtle mini from some workshop she followed. She was glowing with pride, so I complimented her work, and now she's building a Necron army.
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Hadn't done much over the last few weeks, but here's a bit of work done on my Eversor.
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>>93894138
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Anyone know a good sized skull to fit in here? It's a contempor dread, I want to replace the head with it
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>>93894138
>>93894142
i like it
accidental or not nice touch having his toes visible on the foot hes pressing against
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>>93893926
Nice.
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>>93894149
Any SM Helmet will do
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>>93894469
He's looking for a skull
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>>93894469
>any SM helmet will do
contemptor heads are much larger than sm heads
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>>93894149
as always, check with green stuff world, they have skulls in all sizes
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>>93893701
>Wish I could paint muscles like that
NTA but buy a sable brush, they're not a meme, the springy but soft consistency is what makes it possible to layer contours like that.
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>>93893926
>wife likes Necron
Jackpot, anon.
>>
What do you like for a spray primer? I went through my last two cans of Army Painter and really disliked their black and gray sprays. The black especially tended to be chalky more often than not even when accounting for spray distance, humidity, temperature etc.
I think a bone color would work well for the next project I'm working on. Is the Army Painter bone spray any good? How about the GW?
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>>93893926
i used spare bitz to make some jewerly for mine, shut her up for a time atleast
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left or right
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>>93895124
Black is the most resilient color for spray primer, it only gets worse.
GW sprays tend to get shit done, although white is still the most tempermental. There's also Colour Forge.
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>>93895165
I say left, right is getting into stormcast territory and throws off the proportions a little.
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>>93895165
left is funny
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First attempt at painting Tyranids, think it's turning out pretty okay
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>>93895172
>Colour Forge
These look fun. I've been painting too many undead lately, I want to paint something eye-searing.
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>>93895165
Right looks way less retarded. Both halos would look even more retarded in a good way, and you should absolutely go for it.
Also where's his Crozius?
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>>93895165
Make him walk the stairs up.
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>>93895165
left one because i would imagine he is more easy to distinguish on a tabletop and by his peers from behind
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>>93895214
Yeah you understood the assignment. I don't know how much it's really a "first attempt" if you already have the layering procedure down pat.
Your white and highlights are looking a little dry though, I put some retarder medium in my white paint so it acts more like a normal paint. I got the idea from this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeaDDXtdHC4
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>>93895284
That's a good tip, white has been pretty problematic to work with.
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I was little stupid for buying stuff without considering before if it will fit to scale - I have feeling that these aquarium plastic plants would be too big for mini scale. Or I'm wrong? Any suggestions on what else could I use? Final goal is to make forest/jungle bases.
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>>93895407
Well, cut the plants apart and use them in pieces.
Also dont forget to paint them, or at least spray them with matt varnish, otherwise they will look like plastic.
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>>93895407
you could make it work
>>
I unironically hate primer so much that it might push me out of the hobby.
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>>93895490
>tfw live in texas
it's always too fucking hot to prime
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>>93895490
have you tried priming via airbrush? For primer and varnish you don't need anything fancy and you can add retarder as much as you need. So even if you are in a desert you might be able to get consistent and good quality results once you figured out your mixtures/air humidity/temperatures.
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>>93895498
Yea, idk, man. I've tried in so many different conditions at this point, I can't even blame the weather anymore. Pretty sure I'm just actually straight up stupid.
>>
I don't want to use sprays aircans or masks or anything because I paint in my living room. Am I missing out? I don't have a garage or shed.
>>
>>93893611
What a fun sculpt
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>>93895407
looks fine to me. Like the other anon said, just cut them apart and rearrange them.
I made some ferns out of cheapo aliexpress palm trees for my forest terrain that way. You can use some baking paper and hot glue to make the arrangements somewhere else first, so you don't end up with a bazillion glue strings from the hotglue on your bases.
>>
>>93895214
I'm glad to see other Leviathan Nids around. Though it's pretty rough around the edges (which for a first try can't be faulted for), it's honestly not too bad, and you did take the time to try and catch some of the more minor details most modern Hive Tyrants skip over these days. Besides what >>93895284 mentioned (which I'd agree with), the paint's also a bit thick in some places, and your carapace lacks depth and looks a bit too flat, with the purple swallowing up the black and the highlights extended too far at in a few areas. I would suggest a bit more black to it and then neatening out the highlights then going back and doing some smaller light grey highlights, and maybe also add a touch of black to the core of the Bonesabers and horn as well.
That's simply how I love to paint Leviathan though, so I admit it's just my personal preference for them is all. Hope this can help you. Have fun anon.
>>
>>93895189
>lemartes original helmet reads as stormcast now
sad days
>>93895241
I definitely could do both halos still, and he's got the crozius in his right hand it's just a bad photo angle
>>93895259
I might, it is a weirdly tilted pose with him walking down them in the default
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>>93895529
I live with a severe asthmatic. Airbrushing basically isn't an option (even if I could afford one).

I'm sorry I'm fucking blogposting, pissing and whining, but this shit really has me fucked up. The fucking mouth breathers at the LGS all use spray primers. I ask them for advice, and they tell me to do basically what I've already done. It seems like these fucking morons are barely even trying, and shit just casually works for them, but I just fuck it up OVER and fucking OVER again.
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That's it for today. Don't know what to do with the base to make it look better.
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>>93895549
depends on what you mean. You should definitely use personal protection if you use any aerosolized paint inside (especially the kind with agressive solvents like primers). You'd only miss out on healthproblems if you avoid that.
Spraycans can save you a ton of time. They are not necessary. You can look into a portable spraybooth though. There are some you can set up and break down again, with the airhose going out the window. That way you could use spraycans inside and all the overspray would be funneled to the outside. The small ones are not gonna be big enough to completely eliminate all the gas and particles from the air, but it's way better than just having all of that sit in your living room and settling over your furniture. The big spray booths with powerful fans in the back and a waterfall to catch particles are good enough to enable you to do everything inside without masks and whatnot, because it'll all just be sucked away instantly. Sounds like you are working with limited space though, so probably not an option.

The next best thing are airbrushes. You can use those indoors, but you should wear a mask if you are not using a spraybooth. Slower than a spraycan, but since they don't blast as much paint you also don't produce as much dirt. Still a lot faster and better than priming by brush.

Priming by brush is viable if you don't have any other option, it just takes forever and is the most work. If you've done your first couple hundred miniatures you'll probably be already sick of it.
You always have the option of taking your minis and the spraycan outside for priming, even if you live in an apartment building or something like that. It's a bit annoying, but aside from embarassement about being into toy soldiers there is nothing stopping you (unless you live somewhere very cold or very hot. Then you really have to figure out an indoor solution).
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>>93895617
>Don't know what to do with the base to make it look better.
my first impression was that he mini is perched on the leftovers of a ship's bow, so my thought was green-black sludge and strings of seaweed hanging off the timbers. But on second look it seems like it's one of those AoS ruin buildings. All you need it a bit of contrast though. You could do anything: grass, ashes, snow, fallen leaves, just something to add a bit of flavor. On second thought maybe not snow though. The green and red might end up look a bit christmas-y with a snow base.
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>>93895549
That just sounds like a really good way of giving your whole living room a light dusting
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>>93895549
Brush primer really isn't as bad as >>93895624 says, if you dab it on with an artis opus brush (or equivalent, you really don't need the good ones for priming) it's effective and painless.
I stopped using my airbrush for reasons and hot take but I don't miss it that much, I'm somehow more efficient with a regular brush since I spent too much time testing airbrush effects instead of painting. Good brush painting > airbrushing > mid brush painting.
>>93895613
Have you watched videos of people applying primer? There could be something nobody thinks to mention but you watch it and it's like "wait you hold the spray can like THAT?".
Absolute brute forcing the problem, you could ask your LGS players to prime with you.
>>
>>93895684
>Brush primer really isn't as bad as >>93895624 (You) says
Well...I guess it depends on what you are painting as well. But on any multipart kit with undercuts and hard to reach places priming by hand is infuriating. Much easier to catch most stuff with a can or airbrush imo - and if it's not perfect you at least get a soft edge and not a splotchy hard line that sticks out like a sore thumb.

Personally I hate priming by hand with a passion, but I guess it's possible there are people who might enjoy it.
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Finished this lad, pretty happy with the end result I must say.
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>>93895714
>splotchy hard line that sticks out like a sore thumb.
You aren't priming with a round brush, are you anon?
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>>93895727
>>93895727
>But on any multipart kit with undercuts and hard to reach places
I don't think I could have made the issue any clearer, anon.
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>>93895284
>>93895588
I gave it a satin varnish that I think helped to pull it together better and make the white look less dry, still probably need a few hours of work to tidy it all up.
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I'm a painting noob with no paint, but Vallejo + Contrast paints when they are appropriate seems like the best starting point, right? Any specific bundles or similar things you recommend for Vallejo? Painting Tomb Kings, High Elves, and Beastmen so I need a pretty diverse set of colors.
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>>93895498
Before you go to bed at night, line up yer stuff and get your spray can ready. The following morning, when the temperature approaches reasonable, get up with the sun and prime before you start your day.

It doesn't always work out, but it could give you an decent chance... unless you live in a place like Houston. Then maybe you need to make a roadtrip up to Grapevine and try there.
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Too Is the green to intense for SOH?
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>>93895786
>I'm a painting noob
welcome to the hobby!
>with no paint, but Vallejo + Contrast paints when they are appropriate seems like the best starting point, right?
Vallejo has a range called XPress. They basically do the same thing as contrasts, come in bottles that will not dry out on you or spill unlike GW pots and you don't have to accomodate two different sizes of paint bottles in your rack/shelf/storage solution. Worth thinking about for convenience's sake imo.
>Any specific bundles or similar things you recommend for Vallejo? Painting Tomb Kings, High Elves, and Beastmen so I need a pretty diverse set of colors.
Sets are not the worst way to start a collection, but only if you know you will actually use all the paints in the set. If you end up with bottles you never touch you haven't saved anything by buying a set. If you know what paint schemes you want to use for each army picking sets should be easy. Between Tomb Kings and Beastmen you'll probably want a bunch of browns and khaki colors. The VMC range is great for that. Maybe you can find something to set you up with a nice range of browns for those two armies in their uniform/ww2 tank sets.
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>>93895786
$30 for 16 paints is hard to beat, and the Vallejo US basic set is the best all-rounder. But tomb kings and beast men might want something more specialized paints.

Army painter sets are good dollar/paint value ok, but force you to buy way more, leaving you with a bunch of paints you won't use any time soon, if at all.

Warhammer stores have a "buy 10 and you get the most expensive one free" deal, so you could buy 9 paints you'll definitely use, and get a free contrast or technical. But unless you live pretty close to one, the cost in gasoline can outweigh the savings.
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Okay, I hope they are okay. Applied (ultra) Matt varnish on these plastic plants as you suggested, no idea if I should also edge them with some bright green or something or they will be fine like that.
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And others. I tried adding water effect, not sure if it worked.
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>>93896052
>>93896033
looks good
>>
Just got an airbrush to mess around with. Been watching videos but none of them tell you much about thinners and cleaners. I almost bought some tamiya x20a thinner before reading what it does to vallejo paints, but is the Tamiya airbrush cleaner fine?
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>>93896228
>but is the Tamiya airbrush cleaner fine
Yeah, that stuff's just really harsh solvent. Vallejo's paints (and similar aqueous acrylics) aren't nearly as tough as the kind of alcohol-based paints the Tamiya cleaner's formulated to flush out, so it'll actually work a bit better to clean Vallejo paints out of the airbrush
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Finished yoko and started work on Overlord Miku
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>>93896403
waifu material
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>>93896403
have you posted yoko?
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>>93896403
Onee-cron
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>>93896403
I thought that was a wargame exclusive mini but i'm not seeing there, where is she from?
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>>93896448
Posted WIP in last thread but not the finished mini

>>93896539
Minigames Minis
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>>93896573
oh, that yoko. pictured it like a yoko ono necron or something
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Starting a Dark City inspired Delaque gang for necromunda


....God iv missed playing 'munda
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>>93896295
Harsh enough to hurt the seals' life span?
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>>93895723
Nice work anon. I like the colour scheme and chest detail, but perhaps I'd say his face needs to have the same level of sharpness as that Aquila.

+100 for drilled barrels
>>
Anons who have experience with Reaper models, is it actually true when they say you shouldn't prime them? I bought pic related in the Bones plastic and I wanna fuck it up with a failed priming.
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>>93896957
I'm retarded, pic.
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>Suitable Respiratory masks should be worn whenever handling Flock materials, especially those with a length less than 4mm

I'd never heard of this before. Do people do this?
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>>93896957
Spray primer is the worst for them because of the solvents, even then I did it once on a larger model and it went fine, maybe a little tacky.
What you're supposed to do is apply unthinned paint as your first "primer" layer. Stipple it on with a large brush to prevent brush strokes.
>>
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>>93896957
>Anons who have experience with Reaper models, is it actually true when they say you shouldn't prime them?
It depends. Harsher primers can fuck with the plastic, but the PVC doesn't have enough tooth to hold a lot of paints and actively repels washes and Contrasts. Thick coats of Reapers' own paints do seem to stick okay but will flake over time without a prime and seal
Personally, I've had very bad luck with all white primers, self-levelling auto primer, and flat lacquer. Thin coats of Rust-oleum 2x Primer (not paint+primer) in Oxide Red, Neutral Grey, and Flat Black all worked just fine, as did their Flat Dark Earth camo paint.
Airbrush priming should be fine as long as you stay away from lacquers, and I know some guys have had luck with brush-on gouache but I can't handle the texture of that shit on my skin.
>>
>>93897049
>I've had very bad luck with all white primers
Hear me out. This stuff is intended for metal. Great adhesion. Two thin coats of it has adhered to every surface I've applied to it.
>>
>>93896973
Sounds mostly like legaleze ass-covering, but sure, it isn't exactly good for you to inhale tiny fibres, even less so when shit isn't biodegradable. We're a mask if you're worried, a leftover one from the COVID days will suffice.

>>93897070
Might be worth trying, but note that as he says the problem isn't simply finding something that'll stick, but finding something that'll stick without melting the surface off of the minis in the process. Metals tend to be extremely resilient when it comes to organics solvents...
>>
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>>93895684
>Have you watched videos of people applying primer?
I watched a shitload when I started and thought I understood. Rewatching now, and holy FUCK I have been holding the can way too fucking far from the minis. Idk how I fucking missed this. I also didn't have any dome brushes last time I tried brush on primer, so I'll give those a shot if the spray is no good again. Thanks.
>>
>>93897116
There is absolutely nothing spicy in craft paint lol. I've used it on Bones, this isn't hypothetical.
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>>93896957
Bones Black are generally fine. I've never had a problem with spray priming them.
The ones that have the issue are the cheap white soft plastic ones. The solvent in the primer makes them tacky, but I found a second coat of a matt varnish or just throwing a coat of paint on by brush or airbrush immediately fixes the problem.
>>
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I finally finished my first original miniature. His name is Louis and he smells of potato (For turnip28)
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>>93896908
Thanks man. More shading on the face, you mean? You might be right, maybe I could go a bit darker on the recesses, especially those ridges on the head.
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>>93897070
The problem I've had is twofold. On white plastic it's extremely hard to control the thickness of an already-finicky white spray primer. Second, the primers I mentioned have more aggressive levels of solvents in them that cause the PVC in the Bones formula to become tacky and soft. If you leave it protected from dust for several days to offgas it will sometimes harden back up, but not always. White primers seem to have something in the formulation, possibly to accommodate titanium white, that just aggressively fucks with Bones. Contrariwise, I've had trouble with stuff like foam-safe spray paints just flaking off.

>suggests a brush-on white craft paint with a satin finish
>just brushing on paint with no primer or seal makes the paint flake off over time
I'm not entirely sure you're understanding the assignment, Anon.
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Well... the paint went on way faster than I expected when I held the can closer, so it might be a bit heavy on some areas and lacking coverage in others, but I'm pretty fucking sure there's no texture this time. Could this be victory, at long last?..
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>>93897402
Looks good to me, Anon.
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>>93897278
>all-surface craft paint has the same adhesion as miniature paint
Ok buddy.
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>>93897015
Thanks anon. I'll just slap on some unthinned brown on it.
>>93897049
I do have Rust-o's gray but since the manufacturer says not to spray... I'll try the unthinned paint method and if it fucks up for some reason, I guess I'll just strip the mammoth and prime.
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Hey /wip/! It's been a long while since I posted anything, and I can't remember at this point the last update I had made, but I am starting to wrap up my long running necron army project. I finished this void dragon a little while ago, and am in the middle of doing some Skorpekhs, wraiths, and death marks. I should have a few updates in the future!

Glad to share this void dragon. I am really happy how it came out!
>>
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Putting the brush down on this bloodthirster for the moment, Khorne daemons are great to paint
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>>93898148
Nice job on the eye glow. I also see Chaos is invading the green fields of Golfcoursia.
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>>93898148
sick glowing eyes dude
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>>93898148
Like the other anons aid those glowing eyes are nice. I also like the perfectly normal grass on the base that doesn't look disturbed at all.
That's going to change very shortly in the presence of that Bloodthirster I assume.
>>
>>93897467
You can always test by spraying the bottom of the base and see where it gets you. Worst comes to worst you glue it onto a piece of wood or another base.
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>>93898219
nta, but I'd like to think this is just an instant before impact. he's mid leap, and when that blow comes down the whole field is getting painted red. like... someone is about to get absolute fucking deleted.
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>>93895549
I paint my primer honestly and aside from speed on simple models I like it better that way.
>>
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>>93898219
I went with the classic for my daemons because I thought it would be funny to have eldritch horrors of blood and hate frolicking in grassy fields but also because I'm lazy and I get fake grog points for it
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Playing around with colors, what do you guys think?
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>>93897231
I would gladly have my fodder run in fear and general confusion from such a beast after failing to hit anything.
You should put some gloss varnish on the eyes like you did the back to make them look wet too.
>>
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>>93895852
yes but it doesn't really matter if the entire army is this color. Not many chapters/legions have turquoise/teal legions/chapters use that color so there's no confusion.

If you like the shade and put the appropriate heraldry and decals then you're fine
>>
>>93898657
What is the shooting profile for an optic blast?
>>
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>>93896403
Finished Miku

>>93896627
>Yoko ono necron
Now that would be true 40k horror
>>
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>>93898994
And what really matters
>>
>>93898999
And new WIP
>>
>>93898994
Lookin' good Miku-
>>93898999
-lookin' REAL good.
>>93899004
Is this one and Miku from the same makers?
>>
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>>93899018
>Is this one and Miku from the same makers?
From a sculptor I found on MMF named LPOMC. The set has all four chaos girls.
>>
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Needs a bit of mold line cleanup, but got another character built for my 30k guys. Wish the foot had slightly more contact area, because it's a bit shallow for pinning. We'll see how that pans out I guess.
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Test model for a Combined Army force.
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I dunno why I dont like these
I think its cause I used corax white primer and it isnt as bright white as I wanted it
>>
>>93899435
Looks fine for some ghosts. May be you can saturate it with a yellow glaze for a more cartoony ghostly look.
>>
>>93898484
Be better to see her from the front but color choices look fine enough.
>>
>>93899435
Can't you layer some brighter white on the "boney" parts?
>>
>>93899667
thats the brightest white I have

>>93899549
maybe that could work
>>
>>93899385
neat, gives me halo vibes
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Warlord for a crusade I'm in.
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>>93898994
Where'd you get the miku? She's cool.
>>
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Anyone here done leopard spots before?

About to start a Space Marine army, or killteam most likely, still have to see how that plays out when I start buying models. But I was thinking about doing Lamenters and I was thinking if I have a captain with a cape or something similar I would like to give them a leopard cape, but I never done leopard spots before so I was curious if anyone might have advice or pointers?

I do have this video to help at least, and I'll try this method on some throw away models and see how I like it, though being on a cape instead of a flat armor panel like the noise marine leg kinda has me wondering how easily this method might apply

https://youtu.be/ny6bIdMLgBo?si=z0dwM_JgtEGAYWxt
>>
>>93900468
There are better tutes out there.
>>
>>93899887
toight, wheres the model from?
>>
>>93899887
Badass
>>
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>buy artist paint like jo sonja (2 of each primary, black, white)
>pre-thin with medium until normal mini branded paint consistency (note recipes by weight since it's too thick to use drops)
>transfer to dropper bottles
>pre-mix like 30 colors in new bottles (noting recipes based on drops)
I've never painted anything in my life but if I'm autistic enough to learn about colors and do my recipes properly every time is there any reason not to do this? would work out to be multiple times cheaper than buying mini branded paint.
you can even take it a step further by buying pigments and mixing your own paints but that step seems to be more finicky than just buying tubes off the shelf, and shouldn't actually save you that much money over the course of a year with how little paint a miniature needs.
youtube.com/watch?v=aSWCclwcJOU
youtube.com/watch?v=YKAdka85Row
>>
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Can use my Hands somewhat properly again after six weeks. Ended up building another model from half a PBC sprue and a Medusa I got on sale, instead of painting any models.
>>
>>93901175
>is there any reason not to do this?
Time involved and fucking about.
>>
>>93901175
>to be multiple times cheaper than buying mini branded paint.

If you want to count pennies, sure. Autism will save some money, but the time you spend on mixing up your paint is usually worth more to people than at bit of saved money.
>>
>>93901249
thank god the dyi schizo is no longer here or he'd have a meltdown right about now
>>
>>93900786
What a useless remark

>>93899435
The white is kinda dull. Might be time to get a brighter one. I agree with>>93899549 that you can add more saturation, a lime green would work too.
>>
>>93901404
Making you aware that there are better tutes out there is not useless.
You want a better result? Do the legwork, otherwise be happy with dunc’s basic spots.
>>
>>93901415
>putting a phrase into youtube search bar
>legwork
lmao, you're not some 15th century scholar digging through ancient tomes in search of obscure knowledge. If you have a better tutorial saved just share it or don't post useless shit
>>
>>93901438
>spoonfeed me
No
>>
>>93901525
There are better posters out there
>>
>>93901544
All you had to do was ask for help and I likely would have. Instead, you acted like an entitled dickhead. You get what you deserve, dickhead.
>>
>>93901568
Not even that anon you fucking waste of oxygen, there is also at least another one calling you a fag. He said
>so I was curious if anyone might have advice or pointers
Should he beg you on his knees for you to gracefully share your super secret youtube tutorial? Seriously, fuck off and don't come back
>>
>>93901568
NTA but your a fuckin cunt of the highest order.
>>
Bros I realized I enjoy assembling miniatures 10000x more than painting.
>>
>>93899887
Oh boy that yellow guy sure will be pissed when he wakes up haha
>>
>>93901626
Yeah, same boat. Unfortunately my wallet cannot keep up to have assembling be nearly as frequent as painting.
Gotta at least chip away at what we've built slowly.
>>
>>93893756
I cut my wife some slack because I really should have cut the lawn instead of stripping models all day
>>
>>93901626
I believe in glue fume supremacy
>>
Well I tried priming with a dry makeup brush and sadly the mecha white still ran, even went up into the base of the brush maybe from the dabbing.
>>
>>93897402
That's some flawless coating if I can say so myself. Good job sir, get that fucker painted my man!
>>
>>93893798
I recommend water. Vaseline mixes into the stuff and can make it take longer to set. Also water eventually evaporates, removing vaseline after you're done sculpting is a pain.
>>
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>>93895852
what's going on here?
>>
So much done yet souch left to do. Marines were supposed to be easy. I still have the filigree in the staff, finishing the back banner, the cannisters, keys and purity seals on his tabbard and adding finer edge highlights to the armor. Hopefully the other characters aren't as tedious as Tigurius.
>>
>>93901933
>Marines were supposed to be easy
Rank 'n' file sure are, but the big boys always demand extra attention
>>
>>93895613
Are you using army painter primer?
>>
>>93900850
Dreadghost by wargames exclusive
>>
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Bases from yesterday but with models.
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>>93895613
Don’t stress about primers bro, I don’t use it anymore—as the AK ones I have just chips off while I apply it; totally useless.
>>
>>93901919
Probably overspray? I'd imagine they're probably not so autistic that they'd stress about repainting it instead of just covering it with the tracks like anyone else would.
>>
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>>93895617
And I think I'm done. Armor has a red sheen to it too bad it can't be seen in the photo.
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>>93902395
radical model anon
>>
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>>93902395
Backside
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These bugs kinda gross me out

Im going to shade and highlight before applying a gloss varnish to the whole thing
>>
>>93902417
Just use a real bug.
>>
>>93902138
I hate those backwards banana magazines so much
>>
>>93902422
Advanced modelling techniques
>>
>>93902528
jesus christ
>>
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>>93902528
>>
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>>93897512
I feel you man. Have painted just two minis this year. I have to man up and start to paint regulary.
>>
Working on new Bb team. Love these sculpts.
>>
>>93902811
Hate the new phone camera. For some reason everything looks like it hase some kind of strange specks all over.
>>
>>93895922
Buying from GW is a bad deal regardless even with the 10% off they offer when you consider third party hobby shops have their stuff 20-25% off.
>>
Apologies if this is a really gay post, but I'm having a serious feeling of burn out lately. I hate looking at warhammer, tired of looking at my paints and brushes and have no motivation to finish them off. Have you guys had this before? I don't want to force myself because I know I'm going to end up hating it even more, it'll blow over, right? A part of me does want to finish my MESBG and Ogres projects, but I just don't want to paint skin or any of that anymore
>>
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>>93897512
That's a pretty neat scheme, anon. I'm painting a cron kill team right now, here's what I have so far. Please excuse some slight weirdness from the varnish
>>
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Still needs some flocking and a little more gold to lessen the oxide but other than that these guys are done.
>>
>>93902860
Been back in the hobby for almost 2 years now and didn't run into this feel so far. Sorry to hear that anon, maybe spend some time on a different hobby and you'll feel like painting again
>>
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>>93902875
rotate the picture next time but those look cool, love me some sylvaneth
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>>93893590
l I just cut out all these motherfucking aliens I’m intent on painting all of these assholes before 5
>>
>>93902883
I'm getting berated by friends to go on 4 day warhammer benders with them, take all my shit on 2 hour +train journeys over to theirs to paint for a weekend and it genuinely sounds like torture to me. I just want to do something else for a bit but I feel like I have to keep up with these guys
>>
is orange/blue an overused color scheme?
>>
>>93903012
Yes try again
>>
>>93903046
>blue/orange is over used
>blue/pink was hijacked
>Blue/purple is too similar

anyone know what colors are good with a nice sky blue
>>
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A few Mandrake proxies from Artel W I finished this week. Kind of rushed em to get em done, trying to ha d my army fully painted so I can finally start playing in the new year.

Only 4 raiders/ravagers, a talos/Kronos, and 2-3 squads of Scourges to go

Send help ;-;
>>
>>93903143
https://coolors.co/00bfff-6f6866-38302e-fe4a49-fed766
You can lock the desired color and reroll recommendations with your spacebar.
>>
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>>93902930
DILDO SPOTTED
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Is this selling as a combi-weapon?
>>
>>93903226
isn't it?
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>>93903226
I would've put the melta beneath the standard barrel. But it looks good to me
>>
>>93893701
Looks good to me
>>93893798
Lick it before you stick it. People used to use saliva, but that's gross and green stuff toxic so in other words now use very very light coat of vaseline. Wipe on tool, then wipe off, so coat thin, then fuck that green stuff good. Always lube your tool.
>>
>>93894138
Nice work
>>93895124
All sprays kind of suck, but if you apply correctly they'll work, the chalky is good for adhesion, black is made from charred animal bone so chalky, try spraying early in morning when sun barely up so not as hot dry during summer, or get a tad bit closer and use lighter faster passes, some white is chalky too, army painter is more so than the newer games workshop spray or the vallejo hobby paint but smooth white doesn't have good adhesion and needs to be varnished after priming with acrylic medium to lock in place making extra step, so pick your poison, personally I like slight chalky for priming, do thin coat all angles, then I handpaint from there if I need another base coat either same or different color or I go straight to washes to define objects, ak resin primer is probably going to give you best adhesion with smoothest coat compromise because formulated for resin figures that have poor adhesion but hobby paint most smooth finish but extremely poor adhesion, gw okay adhesion okay smooth, army painter good adhesion chalky texture, i usually use army painter, if i need super good adhesion and smooth texture i either brush prime or airbrush prime or use hobby paint vallejo and my own special varnish for adhesion. But most of the time it's not worth the effort. They're just minis and I don't compete.
>>
>>93895218
Hmm might try ghost grey, looks kino compromise between dark and light prime
>>
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>>93903411
Mid grey should be the default go to primer/undercoat. It's too fucking annoying to paint some colors over black, I honestly don't know why so many people consider it first choice
>>
>>93895407
Depends on environment, lush rain forest perfect as frens said cut some to change size as needed, little super glue and will work, bases looking good so far
>>93895490 learn to brush prime fren, it's better in long run, you can do at all times all temps all humidity and quiet no odors, use any base color and it'll stick or use actual brush on primer explanation of process and type of brush to use here second video http://embscomputerart.com/miniature-painting-instructional-videos/
Now if you want to learn to spray properly, put model on paper plate to spin, 18 to 20 inches distance depending on heat, shake can forever, warm can in sun if cold, if hot just shake, aim off model, begin spray not on model but to the side off model and pass over one direction and release when passed model. Dry 5 minutes if hot. Rotate plate, another pass, etc, light dusting only then wait 15 minutes if hot and lay model down, do underside once, 15 minutes, flip over do again. Done, in total maybe 6 passes, no more, just light dusting, enough for first layer paint to adhere, dry half hour before painting or just learn brush prime as video explains, takes practice also though and cheap fuzzy brush you don't mind stabbing model with.
>>
>>93903220
>get me out of this dusty ass crystal prison
>>
>>93902930
You're going to glue and prime them before painting them, right?
>>
>>93896228
Water, alcohol, that's usually enough honestly, water for majority stuff and cleaning, add one drop alcohol to thin paint, or if acrylic and want to get fancy thinner one drop water, one drop medium, one drop propylene glycol, together trinity thinner i invent for good flow improver, if using enamels or laquers two drops alcohol only or one drop gamsol odorless mineral spirits but then you need better ventilation, for acrylic water alone will work but must only use max two drops or adhesion will suffer, one drop alcohol slightly better, but flow improver mix best because thins without adhesion suffering much, to clean machine copious water, then drops of alcohol, then more water, after session ends disassemble and wipe off needle, between coats of paint wipe tip of airbrush against moist sponge to prevent clogging
>>
>>93896667
Very nice, good movie reference
>>93896963
You can spray prime that but don't use hardware store primer because they have strong solvents, just army painter primer of whatever will work it won't need much, texture will hold on maybe a little more for smooth tusks and toes, but remember to wash model before priming, dish soap, toothbrush, and really good rinsing and brushing, then dry outside about 1 hour indirect sun so no melt or until no moisture in grooves, good adhesion
>>
>>93896984
Looks great
>>93897070
Agreed, cheap craft paint especially multisurface stuff works great as primer, I've tried to tell them, few listen, many ded
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>>93902930
>>93903220
>>93903568
This is a starter set, not the glue them together and put them together sort although I’ll definitely try doing that with the next one I just don’t know how to. Prime it I’ve been raw no rubber.
>>
>>93897231
Potato frens are real frens.
>>93896973
Yes, static grass flocking is synthetic fibers, industrial waste, very very light, floats in air, will harm your lungs, must needs use mask, do outside wind at back only light breeze, no fans inside of course, keep container closed, i seldom use it because of that, but good mask will block it, small particles but not that small, not vapours or anything, remember to wipe area with moist paper towel after, again risk present for lung disease, flocking is basically polyester
>>
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>>93903712
>>
Hey /wip/ I recently got an airbrush for the first time, but I totally forgot to consider the ventilation issue. I am going to be using it primarily for priming and varnishing with acrylic model paint. The room I am painting in is fairly big and has two windows. Do I need to set up some kind of ventilation or will air flow from a fan be enough? Should I wear a basic painters mask?

Any advice would be appreciated. I would rather not give myself atomized paint induced brain damage gradually over the course of a few months.
>>
>>93902815
Great job
>>93902860
Minis notorious for sporadic activity, it's fine, take break, leave a couple of paints brushes and mini out covered and you might do occasionally then a lot again, I took decades off before returning to it, did other kinds of arts and work and physical stuff painting is for bad weather, if nice outside touch grass
>>
>>93903467
Agreed, I do white then wash in blacks or i do grey then highlight in whites, idea both cases is to establish details and contrast right away and provide basis for color washes in the upper end, black prime is rare, usually only for chaos warriors and such
>>
>>93903754
Wouldn't worry if using acrylic only and only priming occasionally, good to wear mask but acrylic isn't super toxic or anything, its just a precaution for pigment particles, but I'd say make sure windows open, sit near windows facing them fan at your back, if only using occasionally that's sufficient, now when using thinners or varnishes or enamels or especially laquers its more dangerous, the thinners are the issue there, then be sure to wear a good mask and maybe even do outside if using laquer thinners or varnishes, otherwise same advice as before for acrylic varnishes, just mask and face windows etc
>>
>>93903712
Godspeed you glorious madman. When you're up for it, get yourself some rattlecan primer (grey is always a safe bet), some tamiya extra thin glue (the best imho) and look up the youtube on how to make a cheap wet palette. Hope you're having fun painting your tiny spacemen.
>>
>>93903875
I guess having the fan flow air from behind past be toward my paint backstop should of push most of the paint particles forward away from me.
>>
>>93903917
Yeah exactly, remember paint is kind of heavy it doesn't travel far and doesn't move up, what does is the ethers that evaporate from the chemicals used as thinners for enamels and lacquers and they are also present in varnishes these are quickly evaporating solvents like alcohol, turpentines, and mineral spirits, they give you a headache, displace oxygen, thin year blood, cause burns to skin, eyes, nose, throat, lungs, and cause rashes on this skin, dryness and eczema etc. So with ordinary acrylic the only real danger is the particles in the paint which are largely non toxic but too much in the lungs can cause problems with breathing but the amount we use for hobby painting is small. There are some hobby paints like the new formula game color by vallejo that contain chemicals you can develop sensitivity to over time, but still pretty small quantities, a mask and fan and open window or door is sufficient for most people. If inside or if have chemical sensitivity avoid using alcohol when possible amd dilute with water when you can and especially avoid gamsol or other odorless mineral spirits especially the cheaper brands, avoid dammar or copal varnishes, enamel or laquer paints or varnishes, spike lavender oil, rosemary oil, and galkyd brand alkyds since they contain solvents. But can use alkyds that don't contain solvent, solvent free mediums including oils and gels, linseed oil, poppyseed, safflower, walnut, acrylic medium, gum arabic, etc as part ...
>>
>>93904171
...of your magical mixtures, because we use acrylic usually your mediums will just be acrylic medium, water, and propylene glycol which is edible as a food preserver so shouldn't cause problem, drop of each makes a trinity flow improver of my design, perhaps occasionally we use drop or two of alcohol to thin also, or we use one drop gamsol which is best quality odorless mineral spirits but that is used for enamel, lacquer, and oil paint, it's not really useful for acrylic. Alcohol can be though. In those cases we use better ventilation, better masks, and do outside if possible. If oil painting there are lots of special mixes most of which are secrets so I won't share but some are straight up deadly. We don't do deadly for miniatures. We keep it as non toxic as possible. In airbrush we have to be more careful than brush on, and that's because then particles are aerosolized and we are breathing them, so in cases when a more deadly mixture is needed we brush on, use special creams and gloves as barriers to the skin, segregate our equipment, clean equipment with special equipment outside with the hose only, trap waste water, use filtration and sun bleaching, use fullers earth for washing and trapping chemicals, all that jazz depending on the risk, but in hobby painting we just try not to wash out our brushes over the dishes and we avoid solvents when possible amd try not to breathe paint particles from airbrush. No big deal. But don't get me started on 3d printing resin. That stuff is poison..
>>
>>93904171
>>93904228
Thanks for the advice
>>
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>>93903907
I got some cheapo model glue from Amazon. Amazon called y’all can DIY is it any good? I haven’t really worked with gluing models. I’ve only been doing the starter sets. because I like the looks and I feel like I have arthritis or something. I have a bad shaky hand which is why I’m not so concerned with painting as I am with trying to play the game. but my models was being posed semi cool; is important to me
>>
>>93903175
Well, better than the official models.
>>
>>93901568
>All you had to do was ask
They literally did that in the first post you inbred gypsy, or has to much paint fumes devastated your reading comprehension?
>>
finally bit the bullet and got a box of necron warriors from my LGS

is there a post with the recommended materials? I understand I need to get some glue, brushes, primer, paints but im not sure exactly what teh process of primer is
>>
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It is done
>>
>>93904333
If it says model glue it should work but most model glues have bad fumes can cause headaches and such so glue outside and hold model together with light tension wraps of rubber bands outside till dry, you don't need much, model glue melts the plastic fusing it together, usually has some acetone in it so a very thin sheen on one side of the two mating surfaces will cause them to fuse fine, always test fit the model before gluing, make sure it fits together, most newer games workshop models don't even require glue, they are press fit so check documents, if press fit glue not necessary, shaking hands isn't arthritis, could be weak muscles, tight tendons, or seriois neurological issues, or just lack of use, do light hand and wrist exercises every day to improve if weak, but could be signs of various diseases developing like Parkinsons disease, but usually just weak hands from lack of fine and gross motor control exercises, especially if in only one hand, arthritis however can cause this weakness but will have secondary symptoms including joint pain and swelling hands occasionally especially when doing fine or heavy stuff or when weather changes, often hands get warm or red too for no reason, sometimes if tendon in wrist is stressed from repetitive injury like...
>>
>>93904550
.. typing painting writing too much shaking can appear, carpal tunnel can be one result from pressure on nerves, tendon tears another, tendons tear more easily when arthritis is present because bones develop spiny protrusions that cut the ligments and tendons, they can be polished surgically, tendon and ligament exercises can help but only after the ligments have healed, tendons can be lightly stretched and lengethen over time, hand stretches important for all artists and musicians, most beginner painters though notice shaking, learning to brace and bridge is important and not taught by stupid youtube gw promoters. They hide the secrets of the hand, manus, manual technique that overcomes shaking. So don't worry some shaking normal when painting at first but if you notice it at other times check with a doctor and do gentle hand exercises daily to stretch and strengthen, also hide your fleshlight better fren or team up for next product review by turd flinging monkey.
>>
>>93904538
Awesome army. The rats are his.
>>
>>93904577
Thank you! Was a joy to paint, i used newsh for the first time to wash every model. Worked like a charm
>>
>>93904530
>im not sure exactly what teh process of primer is
Shake the ever living fuck out of the can and make sure it's room temp or warmer. Go outside in non-extreme weather, too hot, cold, or dry, and your paint will behave poorly. Don't spray too close, don't spray too far. 30 cm works for me. Failing to do this will result in paint drying slightly in the air before it hits the model, which will leave a grainy texture on your model. Yes, priming sucks until you get the hang of your local conditions.

PS: Do not breathe the primer, it's toxic.
>>
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>>93903563
>no
>>
>>93904530
Primer is just a good spray paint that is slightly chalky to stick to the plastic, get cheap army painter spray, either white or light grey, and follow instructions here where i say if you want to learn to spray properly >>93903507 as for glue advice >>93904550
>>
>>93904591
uh oh
im in a tiny apartment
>>
>>93904607
Do it on the street, fuck the police
>>
>>93904607
You spray outside fren, not inside, we don't spray prime inside, go outside, models on cardboard box sat on plate, no wind should be fine, do one light dusting coat let dry 15 minutes turn another coat, doesn't need perfect coverage just enough so paint sticks, summer good time, follow advice here >>93903507
>>
What varnishes do the learned elders of /WIP/ use to protect their models paint from chipping?
>>
>>93904629
>>93904637

one of my biggest concerns is painting, being bad (I expect this) and then just wasting 70$ on minis. Whats the best way to clean and redo minis?
>>
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>>93903734
>do outside wind at back only light breeze, no fans inside of course, keep container closed
At first I thought you were taking the piss but the rest of the post sounds legit. Is this for real?

Airbrushing fucks your lungs, static grass fucks your lungs, do I just give up
>>
>>93904550
>>93904566
Is this ai or do you have adhd or something?
Are you the guy suggesting static grass needs to be applied outside?
>>
>>93904666
I use coat darms matt varnish 139 which is a brush on varnish usually, but any varnish will work including vallejos newer matt polyurethane varnish, but in a pinch you can use straight acrylic matt medium diluted with just a touch of water, it'll go on milky but dry clear, remember in all cases varnish takes a long time to dry and harden so give it a full day before touching or doing a second coat
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>>93904706
If painting is bad you can always strip and repaint the model later but I promise you your first minis will be bad, that's normal, so do one, finish it, do another, by end of box you'll be good at it and if first ones suck you can strip them and repaint, you just buy a special chemical that stinks, put model in little jar with some chemical, soak, and brush off and wash and keep outside for a while until stink goes away. Instructions for stripping are here but don't worry about it until you've done all the models in your box. You won't get anywhere if you obsess about perfection from the start, embrace the suck. http://embscomputerart.com/miniature-painting-instructional-videos/
>>
>>93904731
No, no, yes
>>93904768
Beautiful
>>
>>93904710
>do I just give up
If you live in city, you might as well.
Walking around an hour in any high traffic city will fuck your lungs more then an hour of airbrushing with acrylics.
Both acrylics and static grass are "heavy" so will settle on a surface within a minute or so, just like dust, which can also fuck up your lungs. Sawdust, which is sometimes used for foliage on trees, will also fuckup your lungs, same as anything that is shredded or filed or grinded down.
Honestly, air quality is dropping enough in major cities that they can start selling clean canned air in a decade or two. They already kinda are with the covid inspired boom in hepa air filter systems.
Plastic and super glue are also bad for you, but I don't know how they interact within the lung. The only way to be safe in this hobby is to buy easy to build, no glue, coloured plastic miniatures, clip them out with safety nippers, no moldline removel or any filing/cutting. don't paint them either. Hand priming with gesso isn't safe either. It could dry in and dryed parts could break off, get into the air and into your lungs. you don't want chalk pigments in your lungs, do you?
>>
Anyone used any colorshift paints? Seems like they'd be dope as hell for mecha or in necromunda
>>
>>93904878
I swear to god, I've become so much more like picrel since having kids and googling "is X bad for you/kids/pregnancy" because nearly everything is yes.

I'm probably overthinking it. Air quality being shit doesn't mean you shouldn't use a mask when airbrushing acrylics imho, though.
>>
>>93904538
I dig it. Bases, banners, fur, everything looks good. Congrats anon you deserve credit for it I wish I had your energy and passion to see something through, I'm struggling with my projects at the moment
>>
>>93904710
Just take reasonable precautions, don't be a boomer with emphysema copd reactive lung disease or lung cancer eating up your children's inheritance like my grandparents and parents did, they worked hard in hazardous places without precautions scarred their lungs and smoked, bad ends for all, my great grand uncle fought in wwi, mustard gas scarred his lungs had to ait outside all day everyday for the rest of his life until he was old and died because lungs couldn't process indoor air, the chinese are poisoning us with their plastics, it's on purpose, take reasonable precautions
>>
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>>93904961

Thanks anon, you can do it! Or take a break and come back to it when you're inspired.

I lean on this hobby in hard times and go cold turkey months at a time.
>>
>>93904710
life is gonna kill ya eventually. Might as well enjoy it while you are here.

In all seriousness, flock can fuck up your lungs if you inhale it, but so can aerosolized paint, glue fumes, particles from sanding and probably a dozen other things. Unless you are being careless it's about as dangerous as anything else in this hobby, i.e. not much. Spending your money on beer and cigarettes is more dangerous for your health.
>>
>>93904982
Kino torn banner, these colors never run
>>
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>>93904550
I was rereading your post and I wanted to say are you do you think this one is pressfit or necessary glue.
>>
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behold my third model is complete. Used way more nuln oil this time to make sure it's shaded and tried a dry brush highlight on the fur
>>
>>93904333
That's an interesting brush shaper you got by your desk anon, does it work pretty well?
>>
>>93905120
LMFAO I never would have seen
>>
>>93904333
>a fleshlight/onahole now
WHICH ONE ARE YOU
>>
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>>93904333
Update I’ve got most of the painting done. Just got to color the guns.
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>>93905191
I dig those easter eggs anon, good job
>>
>>93905095
Looks like glue, press fit have nubs and holes that stay together when the two sides are squished, that looks like flat surfaces that should be glued, you still should press fit to test engagement called test fitting before gluing but you'll need either model glue or super glue, for vehicles model glue os better also known as model cement because it fuses the parts making a strong joint that can withstand stress, it melts the styrene plastic, whereas superglue is an acrylic and hardens but doesn't melt the parts as much, problem is model glue stinks as does styrene, testors model cement is what we used to use but I can't even stand a whiff of it now, more sensitive in my old age, but testors makes a nontoxic model cement too, never tried it though. I have no idea what it is made from. Main advice with model cement is use sparingly, it oozes out when you squeeze two parts together so light sheen over whole mating surface is sufficient, more than really and let it dry overnight. Also dad taught me never glue a painted part, use knife or sandpaper to scrape painted part's mating surfaces clean before gluing so good bond can be achieved.
>>
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picture from a few days ago because I haven't painted since.

but basically just more progress on these converted toy metal cannons (plus my own scratch built mortar.
>>
>>93905191
R u fucking the butt between brush strokes?
>>
>>93905191
isn't that a dilator?
>>
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Wait, people just sit down and paint? They don't completely agonise over which paints, which steps, what brushes and accessories they use?

They literally just take a brush and whatever paints they've got and just paint?
>>
>>93904333
>I feel like I have arthritis or something. I have a bad shaky hand
coffeeine can cause shaky hands. Especially if you starbucks coffee or something like that it has more coffeeine (and sugar) than regular brew.

If you legitimately have motorfunction issues it might not be a bad idea to get checked out. Catch your Parkinson's early if you can.
>>
>>93905244
>right I've finally figured out how to paint my dudes
>see new paint, basing material, wash, whatever the fuck I don't have
>now it's completely essential to me painting
>>
>>93905232
what the fuck is a dilator
>>
>>93905244
Yes
>>
>>93905220
Based toy converter
>>93905244
No, we are in agony every second, but we like pain, hence the root word of paint
>>93905245
Oh yeah caffeine too, I should have started with most obvious normie response, but it didn't occur to me because I don't caffeine myself, but you're right, shaking, caffeine, also certain meds especially mood altering drugs, my bro got tremors from his prescription, caused permanent damage before they switched his prescription, some are really bad
>>
>>93904982
I think my issue is all I've ever painted is GW models, I may go on the search for unique mini makers, especially ones that make metal models, I loved my old metal uruk hai back in the day
>>
>>93905298
I love metals too, they just feel different
>>
>>93905262
It's like a cucumber, hence the word dill pickle, but you don't eat it, you stick it
>>
>>93905244
I do 90% of my painting with the same handful of paints and techniques. Each of my brushes is used for a specific purpose. Not much to agonize over.
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>>93905244
sounds to me like you're simply making excuses to not actually paint, anon
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Right now I am working on this copper dragon. How do you think I should do the wings? Should I make them metallic like the scales or fleshy?
Also, any suggestions on how I can add a patina to the scales? He is supposed to be an old dragon.
>>
>>93905244
I've painted enough times to realize that the exact specific paints used don't matter, sharp natural hair brushes are nice but I still need to use cheapo synthetic brushes the vast majority of the time, and don't sweat the small stuff like boots or random pouches.
>>
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Think I'm done with the breachers for now. Marine juice still stains more than I'd like it to.
>>
>>93906140
yup, those are some serious tidemarks from the washes alright
>>
>>93905244
I wing every mini I paint.
>>
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>>93905244
>he doesn't know that you can make above average table ready minis 99% of the time with nothing but base coating, wash, and dry brushing
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>>93905244
Yep. Just fucking send it. As long as you have half a braincell for thinning paints, you can just add more layers until it looks okay. Moreover, if it's actually THAT bad (which it never is) you can strip the thing and do it again. What have you got, some fuckin space marines or whatever? They're like $6 each. I'm pretty sure you can afford to fuck up a few, and by the time you're ready to paint something larger it won't be a concern anymore.
>>
>>93905244
The only thing I agonize over is color choice. Once I get that, I can floor it. But it's easily my biggest hurdle because I am cripplingly indecisive.
It took me almost 2 months to decide on colors for my Lumineth and what I ended up with doesn't even include the original color I wanted to use on them.
>>
>>93906373
Do you do any studies first, like color swatches or blocking the model in digitally? I find this happens to me a bit, but if I just throw some paints on a random bottlecap or whatever to get an idea of how they'll look together it helps a lot, over just having it all swirling around in my head.
>>
>>93906386
>Do you do any studies first, like color swatches or blocking the model in digitally?
To the point where it ended up making my indecision worse.
>>
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>>93906391
Oof, bro. Thought I'm mostly able to get past it on minis, I have that in other areas of my life, so I fuggin feel for ya.
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>>93906429
Yeah, I think I scrolled to the bottom of google images searches for "Lumineth color schemes" and other variants of the search at least 4 or 5 times. I stripped them once and painted over one test model at least 3 times. It sucks, but I try to plan around knowing I'm gonna sit there and overthink it. I even get the same way when I try to figure out what I want to eat for dinner some days. When I get over it, though, it's full speed ahead*.
*Assuming I can keep my focus on painting or not get pulled away from my desk.
>>
>>93905098
Much improved over mono-orange
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>>93905191
Got all of them done finally.
>>
>>93906689
That was fast butt ducker
>>
>>93906689
All with a dildo up your ass???
>>
>>93906689
bro why you not focus frame common
>>
>>93906703
>>93906696
It's 2024 having anal play toys is not controversial or noteworthy.
>>
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>>93905924
I just went for it and I think it turned out pretty ok. It's hard to get a decent picture.
Rate?

1/2
>>
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>>93906749
2/2
>>
>>93906689
>all of them done
But you didnt base them.
>>
>>93906749
Looks fine. You could apply some shading to the teeth/claws to make them a little less flat looking
>>
>>93906758
I’m gonna be honest this is a starter kit. I don’t know how to base, but I kinda don’t want to. I feel like if I were to base with like a desert environment or something it would limit the scenarios I would want to play those troops in.
>>
>>93906873
I prefer black bases unless it's some special model. They are game pieces after all.
>>
Apartment bros, how do you do your priming?
My only option right now seems to be going down into the alleyway.
>>
>>93906946
I would go to the dumpster or where the smoking section is.
>>
>>93906946
just hand brush it manually take your time who cares if it's not perfect
>>
>>93904538
Based. You are the rat king now anon
>>
>>93906946
standing in the middle of the street in the middle of the night having a staring contest with the fiends
>>
>>93906689
you a femboi?
>>
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I managed to get Tigurius up to tabletop level today. I still need to add a final fine edge highlight on the blue armor, add the text squiggles on the back banner book and add in some highlights on the power cables. Trying to alternate between doing a squad and a character but damn, some of these characters have tons of tedious details that makes them take longer than a full squad.
>>
>>93906689
I know this picture is a joke but imagine spending money on a dildo for a gag post in a thread on a slow board on an anonymous image board.
>>
>>93893590
>Shit ass nipper
>Vallejo primer
>Shitadel
I sleep
>>
Is Hobby equipments actually just rebranded makeup stuff?
>>
>>93907455
It's more an issue of a, 'hey we can use girls makeup stuff and it's cheaper too' kinda thing. You'll notice that anything in a niche with a small portion of people active in it tend to get ripped off by the merchant aspect in their dealings. It's the same in the musician industry too.
>>
>>93904706
Unless you have prior art skills, you'll start out pretty bad. That's how skills work.
>>
>>93907215
I'm not knocking your work at all, it's very nice but; man I really don't like how saturated contrast paints look.
>>
>>93907664
Will people make fun of my ugly models?
>>
>>93907455
no
>>
>>93907692
Only if they're ugly in a funny way.
>>
>>93907692
Online? Maybe. In person? Doubt it highly
>>
>>93907231
>he doesn't know the difference between a dildo and anal beads

This place really is full of virgins
>>
>>93907455
No it's generally much worse than makeup supplies in quality
>>
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>>93902528
>>93902542
>>93902801
This dude has been at it for a while now. I like the one that was made of crab shells, but can't seem to find it atm.
>>
>>93907702
I was looking at $10 hobby brand tweezer and $1 makeup tweezer and they're exactly the same
>>
>>93901227
>>93901249
so perfect for stinky neets then got it
>>
Any good chinese resin models? I'm gonna order something from aliexpress
>>
>>93907765
Why not just go to telegram, download some 3d print file then ask your local printer?
>>
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Man this one shits on mine. granted I did it about a yeat and a half ago but still I think yours is fantastic.


>>93907455
I think 90% of competing products you see at the store are just the same product with a different label, shape, or colorway.
>>
>>93907904
for to (you) >>93907215


>>93907714
>>93902528
actually p cool but also fucking repulsive
>>
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It's been a while, but I decided to commit to the carapace color.
Allow me to introduce you to hive fleet I-Wanted-To-Use-PA-Jade-on-something. The imperium has lost the origin of the name to time.

Idk how I'm gonna shade or highlight it yet and I'm gonna need another coat though.
>>
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This guy's been taking me a while. The surfaces are so uneven that I get confused. There are many ltitle bumps and ripples and veins in random areas. I'm in the middle of putting a lighter layer and i have to go around it like a line of ants walking around a rock.

At the same time, I'm not sure how to paint the veins and scars. the little pink lines on the right thigh are just tests. i was thinkning of using more green but i want them to be a pale pink like a scar. I also fucked up while airbrushing the horns and got some on the upper parts of the skin.

this guy is taking me forever. might do a different model to break up the monotony.
>>
Should I carve off the power sword and scabbrad? I feel like it's cluttering the model a bit.
>>
>>93908018
forgot pic, and scabbard*
>>
>>93906454
>I think I scrolled to the bottom of google images searches for "Lumineth color schemes"
I just kinda pick a color I like and roll with it. Throw it in a palette picker or a contrast/complement color wheel, see what paints I have that are close. Set them next to the model. If I don't quite like it I can rotate shades or fiddle with a heraldic scheme instead. Sometimes I experiment with a new technique and if I really like it I'll just do a quick squad to practice it.
I find that looking too much at other people's schemes makes me start second-guessing shit or feeling like I "have to" use a color I don't enjoy working with.
>>
Anyone have a guide on painting easy winter weathering on tanks without going full nightshift or plasmo?
>>
>>93907455
What is this white cube? Sponge?
>>
>>93908021
That model is trying too much. But if you won’t change it, I think you should have the power fist actually gripping that xbox hueg relic.
>>
Is Vallejo Metal Color still the best overall metallic line?
>>
P3 Paints are running a Kickstarter at the moment which is ending in 4 days.

Just wondering what peoples thoughts are on it. Would it be worth keeping an eye on this range, or is it better to just ignore it and go for an alternative at the moment?
>>
>>93907775
Have you ever dealt with one of these fuckstick "Archivists" who moderate the private stl telegrams before? Because that's how they unironically refer to themselves, as they lord over their 5TB of 1 dollar/month Kickstarter files and Sonic the Hedgehog hentai models.
They won't let you join unless you grovel and have custom/rare files at the ready to trade that they don't already. Dealing with them is equivalent to pulling teeth.
You give losers like them something to gatekeep and they all instantly turn into malevolant God-kings with the powers of judgement. I saw the transformation happen in real time when the old Mega.nz account me and the boys IRL shared got nuked and we had to rely on the patronage of greedy, hoarding spergs for a bit.
>>93908187
It ain't bad.
>>
>>93908220
I remember the days of Valhalla anon
>>
>>93902815
I really like your dudes, they kinda remind me of duran from trials of mana
>>
>>93908220
What are you even talking about Anon.. you can literally message the guys who own a scanner and ask them to sell you their files directly.
Or you can beg in any of the public groups for some scraps.

Nobody pays those subscription services for people who do nothing but collect all the shared files to upload them outside of telegram. The idea alone is stupid in itself. Mega has a download limit if you don't pay for it. Telegram doesn't. Why would you want to download from mega?

Join groups, interact, and you will find people that are reliable and they can hook you up with the groups that are actually free.
>>
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>>93902528
>>
>>93908187
they're the best airbrush metallics on the market and it isn't even close
>>
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Posting the haul of minis I got from the flea market for £1 a head to offset the offtopic
>>93908457
>you can literally message the guys who own a scanner and ask them to sell you their files directly.
I'm talking about joining private channels with archives of discontinued/rare/pirated stls, not contacting makers via telegram or looking for scanners.
>Mega has a download limit if you don't pay for it.
Yep. The account was our own personal collection of several TB on a paid account. We paid for the it and assembled the files specifically so we wouldn't have to get any more files via telegram anymore. We weren't sharing a free account.
>Join groups, interact,
It's a waste of time when the groups you need to enter to get at the bulk of models that isn't already loose on the free net still require a toll and a stroke of the autistic ego to get in. Nobody gets into private groups for free, no matter how long you hang around in the free groups begging.
I think you missed my point. What I'm getting at is, it's not really worth anybody's effort to pay/appease shithead gatekeepers in private telegram groups for access to files they themselves got for free/stole. I'm not looking for advice, I've already done all this once before.
What I would say to anybody who does want in to these groups is, there's tons of great files that leak and come to the surface on free sites like cults, yeggi, thingiverse, etc. if you can catch them in time.
I'd recommend anybody who wants specific/unique printed models, use what's already freely available, be on the lookout for leaks and learn to make 3D models themselves, then it's the spergs guarding the archives that come to you for files, and not the other way around. You can learn to make half decent miniatures with no prior 3d modelling knowledge in a month or two, if you're dedicated.
>>
>>93908635
>Nobody gets into private groups for free

I wonder how I got in then
>>
>>93908644
You sucked a dick?
>>
>>93908635
Why was your personal account nuked from Mega?
>>
>>93908635
So gatekeeping sucks because they don't let you in?
Nobody needs xxTB of files anyway. If you need something very specific, people usually will share with you for free. If you just want to hoard, you have to find a way to get in. But even then, why?
I had a link to a 19tb mega from some discord group I got from a Russian guy on Tele as thanks for sending him a single night lord scan. I did download 2 files from there. The rest was either old, available in public or completely unrelated to my interests.

Back to your initial question: printed stuff on AliExpress is usually quite good quality. You can find makers cult and station forge there easily. Also infinity recasts which I never ordered so far.
>>
>>93908187
Lacquers dunk on them obviously, but yeah they're pretty good.
>>
Do I seal my MDF terrain with PVA before or after assembly?
>>
>>93909542
not necessary
>>
>>93909591
Isn't it? I've been told that it will drink up primer and paint without a seal first, which leads to cracking and swelling.
>>
>>93909700
not if you prime it
>>
>>93909718
*properly
>>
>>93909700
Who told you this?
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Baker bake new thread I just woke up and I was just about to start on my new figurines
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>>93909818
This guy >>93877127. Also offbeat builds on YT (pic rel).

>>93909718
>>93909725
How does one do it properly? I have a citadel spray can and a vallejo brush-on.
>>
>>93909928
>He bought a $400 chair device
What the fuck that's a waste of money just get a bf
>>
>>93910049
just fucking spray it lightly. let it dry. spray again.
Yes, it soaks up paint to some degree. It wont harm the wood tho. You just need more paint.
There is primer specifically made for mdf, afaik its some kind of dryer paint.. but you can prime (and seal with it) with regular spraypaint too.
>>
>>93909542
after. You want to prevent warping if possible. Another added benefit is that it will precent mdf from warping as it ages. Cheap stuff can deform if it takes in moisture from the air. YMMV depending on what materials you are looking at and what climate you are in. Not really a huge concern if you live in a temperate climate and store your stuff indoors in a temperature controlled environment.
>>93909700
it's not a bad idea. Prevent swelling as well when you go to brush painting later and using DIY washes is part of your scenery painting process. Makes it more sturdy for gaming. It's slightly more work, but there are no backdraws to doing it, really.
>>
>>93909928
What's that thing below your desk? I'm not up to date with tranny equipment
>>
>>93910049
jesus christ anon, you need to learn how to prime properly
>>
what's a good way to make cork chippings more durable? I tried slathering them in varnish and watered down pva, both of which hardened them a bit but not fully. Maybe a second coat will do the trick. Just wondering if there's any other good method I'm not thinking of.
>>
I'm thinking of picking up a box of crisis battlesuits for my siblings and I to paint for fun, since there's three of us, three of them, and they look very easy to paint because 1) they're tau and 2) they're big compared to infantry models. Between the three of us, though, I'm the only one who's ever painted a miniature before. Are battlesuits a good pick for people who have never painted and will probably never paint again? And between citadel speedpaints and armypainter speedpaints, which one is the easiest to work with?
>>
>>93910049
To properly prime with a spray can;

Hold the can about 6 inches away from the modal

Spray for about a half second while you sweep the can back and forth

Continue to spray in bursts while you
sweep and move the modal around

That's it. It's literally that easy. You just want a lite coverage of the whole model. The main purpose is to give the rest of your paints something to stick to. It looks to me that if you are getting that much pooling you are holding the model too close and spraying for too long. Think about it like creating a mist of paint for the model to be ran through only you are moving the mist not the model.
>>
>>93907923
The slimey bright green looks lovely but I can't unsee those gaps on the legs
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>>93907921
I decided to go with the normal sort of green-to-yellow business.
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Been working on a crimson fist
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>>93904607
Brush on primer is a product that exists
>>
>>93910698
Interesting. Could still use a wash or maybe some stipple blending to bring the colors together.

I like the shades of pink/purple/blue in the skin, maybe you could re-use the green/yellow in the protruding veins like ichor to unite the scheme with the carapace.
>>
>>93910601
Contrast and speedpaint are gonna look shit on flat panels like Tau armor
>>
>>93910840
Would drybrushing back over the surfaces make speedpaints salvageable, or will they just have to learn to thin their paints?
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>>93910931
Dry brushing is the absolute worst thing for flat surfaces. For something flat, you want to glaze, layer, blend, or a combination of the 3 and finish with an edge highlight.
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Primed my Terminators, looking forward to painting these, enjoyable kit so far
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>>93894142
Very nice. I love a a good WRYYYY!
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>>93911045
Cool bases. I don't remember the kit coming with a standard. I probably wouldn't have used it on mine anyway, but did that come from another kit?
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>>93895613
Tbf price points aside you could always get a ventilator if you do every decide to airbrush, separate room also hells
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First try at some nmm, just testing a bit on the leg, still need to do edge highlights, more blending and the brightest highlight.
Still don't get how people get such smooth blends, wish there were tutorials to improve your mechanical skills instead of "top 5 tips every wetblender NEEDS!!"
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>>93904768
Nice one anon
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>>93910991
>edge highlight
yeah if you're going for gw slop, otherwise you don't need that
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>>93911343
Of course. Edge highlights just for the Citadel™ Paint System™ style, and definitely not something which occur in nature and are one of the chief ways of defining the edges of a shape in art. You definitely won't see the really high-level painters placing sharp highlights on edges, no siree.
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>>93911435
Not a flat surface, also metals are one of the rare instances where sharp edge highlights actually make sense. He was asking about Tau. If you take a closer at the picture you posted you will notice that barely anything has stark edge highlights outside of select couple places where it makes sense because of the established light source :)
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>>93911238
>I don't remember the kit coming with a standard.
It doesn't. If it did, the emblem at the top should/would be a Crux Terminatus.

>I probably wouldn't have used it on mine anyway
If your sergeant doesn't have a bosspole, how do you know who he is, or what squad he's leading?

>but did that come from another kit?
I have a few of that particular bosspole bit with the crenelated bottom edge, but I don't recall what kit it's from.

I do know that there is a similar (plastic) bosspole in the 5th Edition Tactical Squad and the Space Marine Commander kit - the latter going all the way back to 3rd Edition - and metal ones that came in blisters of Veteran Sergeants. The new 10th Edition Sternguard Veterans also have a two-part bosspole that one can optionally affix to the sergeant's backpack.
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>>93911314
This looks pretty good to me, honestly. You can see a bit of roughness up close but at the distance this picture opened for me it's fine. The mistake I used to make when I was learning blending/glazing was not always waiting for the paint to fully dry so that's one tip I can give you. There's not really a way someone can improve your mechanical skill through a video, you just have to practice your brush control. Also don't know how exactly you were doing the blends but for me it's easier to make some in between steps instead of glazing one color over the other.
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>>93911504
>The new 10th Edition Sternguard Veterans also have a two-part bosspole that one can optionally affix to the sergeant's backpack.
This one.
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>>93908220
>You give losers like them something to gatekeep and they all instantly turn into malevolant God-kings with the powers of judgement. I saw the transformation happen in real time when the old Mega.nz account me and the boys IRL shared got nuked and we had to rely on the patronage of greedy, hoarding spergs for a bit.
A lot of the Telegram jannies report other groups to get more people sucking them off. It's hilarious how petty they are.
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I'm building some more crew and the bases for those guns from ebay for my renegades.
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>>93911502
>also metals are one of the rare instances where sharp edge highlights actually make sense
Any corner on a surface with some degree of sheen will catch light and end up with sharp highlights. Hell, you can see it for yourself on unpainted plastic models
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>>93911599
NTA, but that's not the same as your typical edge highlights as often advocated in this hobby.
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>>93911502
>also metals are one of the rare instances where sharp edge highlights actually make sense.
you don't paint for shit, ask how i can tell
go give c&c on reddit and tell them put push the contrast and thin their paints
or jump off a bridge
retard
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>>93911527
Thanks for the tips anon, was using wetblending. Was going off heresy for heretics guide.
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>>93911834
I never managed to get a really smooth blend with wet blending so I just layer/glaze instead. I think you can glaze over wet blends to smooth them out so you could try that
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>>93907921
>>93910698
I remember your bases; nice to see you around again anon.
The skin looks rather dusty and chalky, but your carapace is quite good and you did a great job on the horn. The added glow around the eye is very nicely done as well. You also actually tried to catch a lot of the detail on the neck too, which I appreciate (because I do that myself, I believe it just doesn't look proper otherwise). I got advice on teeth roots here for my Hive Tyrant, and once I did them it made the mouth look fantastic, so I think if you enhanced your teeth roots as well it'd make your guy look just as cool.
Hive Tyrants are easily my favorite models around and yours is pretty killer anon. I look forward to seeing it once it's finished!
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>>93910644
Oh. That's just normal priming, innit? I thought there's some different "proper" process for MDF. Thanks anyway.
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>>93912284
Do you happen to remember what the advice on the teeth roots was? lol
Yeah those parts aren't finished yet either. I just blocked in the teeth and tongue, and the skin isn't highlighted yet, just base coated and washed.
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I was posting progress yesterday but I finished him last night. He isn't actually that yellow in person.
Rate my copper dragon. I have only been painting for a few months
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>>93909928
Thank God, finally almost done painting these fucking things and then I have like five models left crown vanilla and cheering are helping me through
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>>93912539
To darken them (either black undercoat or wash) and then pick them out so the teeth stand out more. I think it worked quite well. Happy to help anon!
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>>93905682
I think I've got ocd tbqh
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>>93912721
>>
For those of you who live in an apartment/condo, how much space do you need for all your models and painting materials?
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>>93913133
just like a desk and a cup for my brushes and other jars of crap next to it and a 5-6 level plastic storage cabinet thing with wheels
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Some little progress, not overpainting on these pocks takes more concentration than id like to admit.
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>>93913291
I'll be the one, I liked the pocks on the moons yellow (ish) more
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>>93913133
I still have to think about long term storage for painted models, a toolbox lined with foax doesnt seem like a great solution
an ikea kvissle and magnets looks good but they don't sell those anymore
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man I hope OP anon is all right, he usually makes a new thread a lot faster
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I pulled some of my Indomitus Necrons out of storage for a change of pace, was planning to do Szarekhan Dynasty since the necron guy at my LGS does Sautekh. I forgot I spilled my Runelord Brass several months ago though I do have some Brass Scorpion. I don’t have money until I get paid next week, is there a good combo I could use or should I just use my Brass Scorpion? I have a lot of GW and Army Painter paint.
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>>93893590
NEW BREAD
>>93913731
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>>93913739
Final bump ‘for archive
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>>93912715
Anon, you dropped your Impaler Canon.



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