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Work in Progress, "Wombles" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Underground, overground, wombling free
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTKMqPg4hM8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>97005460
>>96987343
>>96975945
>>96954538
>>
WIP Secret Santa 2025 is underway!

>2025
https://imgur.com/a/I2xxkxJ
>2024
https://imgur.com/a/g7MfJE5
>2023
https://imgur.com/a/e9QOmJJ
>2022
https://imgur.com/a/2OWxHpg
>2021
https://imgur.com/a/TKfeLxU
>2020
https://imgur.com/a/TeduVrJ
>2019
[REDACTED]
>2018
https://imgur.com/a/UWRYKEq
>2017
https://imgur.com/a/qS7PH
>2016
https://imgur.com/a/1fxhq
>>
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1/2
Does this look alright for “blown up smashed wall with bullet holes”? Any tips to make it look better? Will be adding sand/tiny rocks as well but just trying to get the cork right. The idea is the smaller pieces are a part of the low wall thats been blown off landing in between the dreads legs.
>>
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>>97026816
2/2
The more I look at this the more I think the pieces are too big. Maybe I need to crumble them up more?
>>
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>>97026816
Use some texture paste for the outside walls, keep the top and sides cork-y, and then use some more delicate sand/rocks on top. You can also make the holes a bit smoother that way. I've done something similar with picrel; it's still kinda meh imo, I would definitely use more paste if I was redoing it, and then smooth it out further with something like a plasticard.

>>97026825
The pieces are definitely a bit too thicc, imo, it kinda hurts how big and hulking the dread is.
>>
>>97026877
Thanks anon, I’m also fishing for any other basing ideas for this guy, army basing theme is ruined city. Is one section of smashed up wall not enough? Or is keeping it simple better? He’s my largest model by far so I want to make his base cooler than just dunking it in sand and pebbles. My creativity is lacking sadly.
>>
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>>97026952
You can always print/buy some 3D printed ruined city parts from AK or GSW, picrel. They are pretty easy way to add good quality clutter.
>>
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>>97026877
>>97026986
bruh these are so nice, fantastic work
>>
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Progress slowly being made. Hearing rumours of a new model with some new corsairs coming up, but I tend to prefer older sculpts anyway. Seriously debated getting some metal fire dragons today but in the end went with the new plastic kit for ease of build / transport.
>>
>>97027308
God damn it. If I post it unrotated it rotates, so rotated it the other way to cancel it out and this time it doesn’t rotate so it’s still wrong.
>>
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I want to paint my Volkus terrain in that Overgrown style that has been making the rounds, but I want to go with an autumn theme.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3tF3_CB1Fk
Can I just substitute the green flock for brownish flock and scatter leaves or will it look retarded? What do overgrown abandoned ruins look like in the autumn IRL, do the plants all die off and regrow over the winter or do they just turn brown? Pic semi-related, apparently ivy can turn darker sometimes
>>
>>97027082
Thank you anon, glad you like them!
>>
>>97027308
rotating the image via metadata won't work because the website strips metadata. you have to actually move the pixels in an image editing program. or you could just stop taking pictures in portrait mode like a subhuman.
>>
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>>97027308
>>
>>97026825
I think the chunks are slightly too big, but the standing portion looks good. Some rebar sticking out of the broken edges would sell it too
>>
>>97027674
Light is a bit too strong, I barely see his face.
>>
>>97025189
>Also will assume you put it on after you've primed the base and model since it's kind of flimsy and hard to paint on.
yeah, I usually attach it fairly late and if possible pin it in place with floral wire or multiple glue attachment points. The PVA dip helps a lot with the fragility, as well.

>>97025838
Wet-sand, wash hands when done, preferably wear a mask, clean your work surface and tools to remove the resin dust before it dries. Wear goggles if you're using power tools. The dust is a long-term sensitizer (this means it gives you an allergy to resin if you keep micro-exposing yourself) and can do some fairly nasty lung damage over time. If you have scarred or damaged lungs like I do Got MERS and fungal pneumonia while deployed you have a lot less slack to work with.
The thing is, the sensitizing effect from the resin sneaks up on you and once it starts to get bad you're going to discover exactly how much shit in your life uses urethanes. It also means a wide selection of normal hobby shit will give you horrible rashes and sores. Multiple people at ILM have had to leave the effects industry from mis-handling resin, and that poor annoying youtuber Luke APS managed to make himself allergic to superglue AND resin by doing massive pours in his unventilated attic. The organic vapors given off from casting are their own kettle of brain damaging fish, but working with resin dust is arguably more dangerous than lead*.

*corroded lead and lead acetate? Those are dangerous. A 5% lead / 90% tin / 5% antimony mix is pretty innocuous unless you're eating spaghetti on your desk while you work
>>
>>97027674
Is it possible to learn this power?
>>
>>97027674
Face is actually still plain white.

Anyone have any tips/recipes for eldar flesh? I normally just put helmets on everyone to avoid having to do skin tones.

>>97027635
Noted
>>
>>97027674
>mfw I notice the flashbang right before it goes off
>>
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Her face looks rather odd on camera and up close, from naked eye it was okay...
>>
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Anyway, I guess I will call her done since I won't be able to make her any better with my skill level. White is still my bane and camera somehow have trouble catching contrast here.
>>
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And her back, to better illustrate problem with white.

(I keep calling her priestess, technically she is "hierophant").
>>
>>97028515
I feel like your blond hair is starting from too bright a color
>>
>>97028571
Started with AK Beige, applied Sephia wash and painted Beige again, adding Ivory. I admit it looks very bright but I felt that it could fit her. On official art, she have bright violet hair, I simply didn't like that.
>>
>>97028515
Looks good anon. That much white is always tough.
Big eyes (not a bad thing)
>>
>>97028181
Kek
>>
>>97027329
Look outside, see how much is green and how much is brown/red.
>>
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it's done
>>
>>97028961
Super clean, very nice but man does my wizza need a bigger base.
>>
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What do I do with the big flat areas of my clothgoblins?
>>
>>97028961
very very cool
>>
>>97029056
some scratches or weathering
a color gradient
some kind of freehand
>>
>>97029056
What are those from? They're cute.
>>
>>97029084
Just google Cloth Goblins dood
>>
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>>97029030
hes a bit oversized, but I didn't want to put him on a 25 in case i want him to rank with skellies or something
>>
>>97026755
What are some good brushes that aren't quite kolinksy but still better than cheap synthetics?
>>
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>>97029333
Citadel "Layer" brushes
>>
>>97029344
They're just marked up rebrands of.. I forgot which brand it was.
>>
you know that feeling when you weld without eye protection and it feels like you have sand in your eyes for few days
we got first snow and freezing weather and the air is so dry my eyes just somehow dried up and i cant paint let alone see
never happened before and let me tell you this sucks big time
>>
>>97029333
Better synthetics, cheap but not shitty sable brushes.
>>
>>97029428
Get preservative-free eye drops, anon. You can solve it that way fast and easy.
t. dry eyes anon
>>
>>97029428
run a humidifier man, i sleep like shit in the winter without one
>>
>>97029428
Time to buy a humidifier?
>>
>>97029333
Grab some red sable from art store. Specific brand depends on your location but if you are nice, ladies at art store will happily tell you which ones to get. In Europe, Kolibri or Lineo are both very good, German companies.

(I admit, I enjoy visiting art stores in my city because they have almost always exclusively female staffed and they are always so helpful and friendly, can discuss techniques too).
>>
>>97029441
>>97029455
>>97029462
thanks its good to know this is not some weird disease that makes your eyes crust over and summon sand in them
ill go pick up some eye drops first thing tomorrow morning
but man fuck this stings i can just imagine someone suffering from this all the time
sorry for blogpost i just had to vent because i cant paint like this
>>
>>97029530
cold makes air super dry
if you get a humidifier don't get a ultrasonic one or only use distilled water on it
>>
any advice for scratchbuilding a zeppelin? 2l bottle doesnt seem like the right shape
>>
>>97029530
>thanks its good to know this is not some weird disease that makes your eyes crust over and summon sand in them
You're the one who said it was because of the humidity. If you think it might be an eye infection instead then, yeah, could be.
>>
>>97029619
Get some references instead of just relying on your mental image of a zeppelin.
>>
>>97029253
That's an awesome skeleton!
>>
>>97029428
>you know that feeling when you weld without eye protection
No, I engage the safety squints.
>>
>>97029441
>>97029530
Do not overuse the eye drops, your body adjusts to having them present and over time reduces the natural tear production even more.
>>
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>>97029699
that would be krell
>>
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Repostan my lotd "captain".
>>
>>97029786
Nice job, anon. I saw your spinny but I forgot to speed it up
>>
>>97029780
No, that is not how eyes work, anon. If you are using preservative-free eye drops/artificial tears, there's no such risk at all. Even more severe cases (10+ applications per day) do not suffer from such a risk whatsoever.
If you REALLY going to town with using eye drops (~15+ more applications/day) there is a very small risk of washing out beneficial components of your own natural tears. But you'll find out about that pretty soon, and the solution is simple; get better eye drops that you don't have to abuse that much.
t. been dealing with dry eyes for years
>>
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>>97029788
Thanks anon. It was my first time making a video in davinci resolve and I think it came out too low res.
>>
>>97029619
Small toy football maybe?
>>
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I'm going to work on the knife and call it done
>>
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>>97030218
Very nice. Works very well with that angle of lighting.
>>
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>>97030409
Head is a little too big.
>>
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>>97030416
He's the brains of the operation
>>
>>97030430
>surrounded by naked maniacs
So it seems.
>>
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Various WIPs while I put off batch painting 20 metal battle sisters
>>
>>97030409
>>97030430
not big fan of the bases but they look good and you clearly have a theme going on
>>
>>97029782
Well, you've made an awesome job on that Krell.
>>
>>97027165
I love him
>>
Is this the sort of packing material that makes for a good painting sponge? It came with a chair I got recently. It's like a plastic foam, not sponge foam like you'd get in a mini carrying case. But I thought it seemed about right.
>>
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>>97026816
Update, any way I could modify this? More/less rubble?
>>
>>97030992
for a concrete wall? looks good. depends on what you'll do underneath it
>>
>>97030514
I really like that bodyguard. I'll try to make an .stl with AI and a couple pictures.
>>
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so it seems like the general consensus (according to r*ddit) for "painting" the really hard to reach spots like between the chest plates and guns on my cadians... is to just paint it black like a shadow because if you can't see it while painting then people won't see it unless they are like really trying to look at it and it'll just appear as a shadow? cause how else are you supposed to squeeze your brush in there on an already assembled model
>>
>>97031398
Entirely unsurprising that plebbit is full of lazy hacks.
>>
>>97031402
Wasn't that GW's suggestion back in 4e/5e? Could've sworn I read that in the BRB or starter kit or something.
>>
>>97031398
Paint from the inside out. Do the chest plate expecting to get a little bit of paint on the gun, and then paint the gun afterwards.
You CAN be super careful and just use tiny bits of paint on the tip of the brush to get into most places, but that's rarely necessary and at that point you probably should just subassemble. I try not to do subassemblies when I can avoid it though.
>>
>>97031430
No matter who suggests it - it is a lazy hack way of thinking.
You know that your models have unpainted surfaces and you were too lazy to paint them properly. Making excuses like "oh nobody will notice it from the tabletop distance!" is just cope. You should paint your miniatures to the highest standard you can, or you will stagnate as a hobbyist.
>>
>>97029056
Black/white dots and crescent moons
>>
>>97028961
Nicely done! I like the scroll text especially
>>
>>97031448
Yeah Idk what kind of argument that was.
GW fucking recommended
>base, wash, drybrush
as 'the way to pain'. Why would anybody listen to them for painting advice?
>>
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>>97028961
Excellent cloth and face. Top class, no notes.
>>
>>97029056
Polka dots, tiny dinosaurs, pink hearts.
>>
>>97031448
Stop being such a tryhard.
It does not matter to your hobby skills if the backside of a bolter is painted with 20 layers + highlights or not.
>>
>>97031537
Enjoy wallowing in mediocrity.
>>
You paint to a high level because you enjoy progressing a skill and taking pride in your work.
I paint to a high level because I am autistic and anxious and I haven't enjoyed painting for the past 4 years because it's so stressful.
We are not the same.
>>
>>97031398
I've never heard about painting the area actually black. Though using a dark prime for the models helps with this issue since areas like that tend to end up shaded anyway. But all you need is a good order of operations to deal with it. I.e. paint those areas their base colours first, maybe a simple highlight layer/detail too if for some reason it is an actual prominent area, then fix up overspill/errors around the area and continue painting normally. A simple shade wash is going to handle the rest of that recess area and it will be fine enough not to stick out. The only models you should really worry about this stuff enough to really consider doing sub-assemblies is important models like Characters, HQ, etc.
>>
>>97031551
Hobbies are not competitive Anon. Nobody cares. Stop projecting your twisted mindset onto others.
>>
>>97031398
explain exactly what you are losing out on by painting the arm before gluing it to the body instead of the other way around. don't just give your gut reaction, really think it out and type it in your reply for me.
>>
>>97031616
It's time consuming and holding a figure at the base is easier than to fix every part to something to paint it individually. Also gluing painted pieces together is annoying because you might have to scratch off paint from the contact points, and also risk spilling glue onto painted areas.
It also can cause inconsistent paintjobs if highlights are interrupted by previous individual parts instead of being a like across them because they were glued together before painting.
>>
>>97031616
I'm new to the hobby I can't be bothered to prime a spruce sheet by itself... the kit is meant to be built as a piece and then primed and painted. If the parts are too close together that's a failure of design not a failure of my effort. Also you can easily flip your dumb post around and say the exact same thing in reverse. Maybe if they weren't an inch fucking tall it wouldn't be so difficult to begin with.

If you want to be an ass about it answer me this, why don't you just paint the entire spruce before you assemble?
>>
>>97031646
>the kit is meant to be built as a piece and then primed and painted
It's obviously not if you cant paint parts of it after it's built.
>>
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Finished Undead blood bowl team rendered in black and white, just in time for Saturday.
>>
>>97031654
Cool look, I think you pulled it off well.
>>
>>97031652
If you can't see it, who gives a shit?
>>
>>97029428
you need to break out the wintertime swimming goggles
>>
>>97031678
You absolutely can see it though? Just take the mini in your hands and you'll immediately notice that it's not fully painted.
>>
>>97031652
weird.. the instructions don't say anything about painting before assembling! :^)

also all the painting tutorials I have watched they are always fully assembled... so something isn't adding up... they must not show those spots on the videos I guess
>>
>>97031725
The instructions also don't tell you to huff the spray primers. You'll never become a true hobbyist if you're just following instructions anon.
>>
>>97031725
Some GW instructions literally do talk about painting before assembling btw, so this comeback isn't really that solid.
>>
>>97031689
It's a gaming piece, and you certainly won't see behind the guns if the mini is on the gaming table.
>>
>>97031754
Which instructions are those?
>>
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>>97031802
>It's a gaming piece
>>
>>97031820
What else do you think people are painting their miniatures for?
>>
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>>97031858
Get the hell out of my thread, philistine.
>>
>>97031808
Do you think I'm lying?
>>
>>97031630
how is it significantly more time consuming? the only difference between painting and then gluing and gluing and then painting is an insignificant amount of time scraping the paint off where the glue goes. if you're worried about patterns crossing from one part to another you can temporarily stick them together, or just do the base colors before assembly.

>>97031646
you don't have to prime on the sprue, just prep the model to the point where you would glue it together, but then paint the bits first before putting them together.

>>97031725
gw is full of shit and spreads the lie that priming is a synonym for base coating. it's better to completely ignore anything you hear from gw.
>>
>>97031802
if it's just a gaming piece why are you expected to model terrain on the base? why not just have everyone in your play group pick a team color and everyone paints their bases in that color so you can instantly tell whose minis are whose on the table?
>>
>>97031808
Am I lying?
>>
>>97031858
lmao should've known it's this faggot again
>>
>>97026986
Your wacky mech kit bashes are a delight to behold anon
>>
>>97031858
Fun.
>>
>>97032131
Whats that
>>
>>97032142
The only reason life is tolerable.
>>
>>97031858
its good way to pass the time between games that will never happen
been 3 years since i rolled some bones unless you count playing against yourself
>>
>>97032131
But painting everything in subassembly is the opposite of fun.
>>
>>97030967
no, that's closed cell, you want open cell foam, like the one that came in the old GW blisters
you can test by trying to soak it in water and see how much it absorbs, i'd guess for that one it's about zero

then again a proper wet palette (sponge) is so cheap there's no point on fiddling yourself
>>
>>97031899
No games much? Why would you need coloured bases to see what mini is what?
Bases look good, and they are clearly visible and enhance the gaming experience. The backside of the bolter magazine is invisible and adds nothing to the gaming experience, no matter if it's grey plastic, black primer, base coat and a slop of agrax on top or autistically painted individual bolter shells with coloured tips. This only matters to you yourself, and if it makes you feel better knowing everything is painted perfectly then just do it. But do not pretend it's the only or right way to paint a miniature.
>>
>>97032245
or is it?
>>
>>97032255
it's better visibility from across the table. what if you're playing a 2v2 game and two players both have smurf armies? how does having a lava base when you're playing on a jungle table enhance your experience?
>>
>>97032274
Are you nitpicking weird and unrealistic examples now, just to win an argument you started?
>>
>>97032281
which part is supposed to be unrealistic, that two players in a store might both play the same chapter or that your bases aren't going to match the table you're playing on?
>>
>>97032290
And what would be better in that situation if they had painted their armies in subassembly and coloured their bases red, green, blue and black?
>>
>>97032290
>in a store

Average age itt is close to 40 Anon. Nobody is playing in stores. People have houses, wifes and children. We (on average) are not students any more, we have a hobby room, a basement etc. It's no longer 2006, as sad as this might be.
>>
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>>97032306
>People have houses, wifes and children
h-haha, y-yeah
>>
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>>97032245
Subassembly is a pain in the ass indeed, look at this shit I'm dealing with
>>
>>97031616
I convert every single one of my minis so I have to fully complete them first in order to know that I'm not leaving any gaps or anything else unfinished. If I paint pieces before they will get cut and enhanced with greenstuff so they will need to be painted again anyway. Only alternative would be to cut and disassemble model again after building, but that would result in a loss of detail.
>>
>>97032354
Assemble in full, prime it brown. Anything you can't reach with a brush can stay brown.
>>
>>97032306
Bullshit, my LGS is often near full and that's with people in 20-40 range. Playing at store is simply more convenient when you have all terrain and table ready at place, just bring your minis and dices/tapes/etc. And besides, most people can barely afford single bedroom 25-35 square meter apartments nowdays, they usually have no space for playing.

>inb4 poor
In my European country, single square meter cost on average 3-4 times median monthly wage. Go figure.
>>
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WIP rat ogres
>>
>>97026755
I'm really happy with how milliput performed with my blustuff mold, however I did use a tad too much and ended up with some excess around the seams. Is there a better way to clean up the flashing than careful snips and knife use with sanding? I was thinking a small dremel with a sanding bit might make the process 1000 times easier. Anyone have any advice?
>>
>>97032554
I usually just score excess with knife, similar to getting rid of mould lines and finish with wet sandpaper, it's safer that way. Too much usually means that part is deformed anyway. I wouldn't use electrical tools for that, unless you are already working in mask and all that, it's still something you don't want to inhale and knife with sandpaper work won't produce any airborne particles.
>>
>>97032448
Hell yeah brother, love me some rat-rats
>>
>>97032306
>Average age itt is close to 40 Anon
Yes
>People have houses, hobby rooms, basements
Yes
>Wives and children
Imagine being a normalfag
>It's no longer 2006, as sad as this might be.
Imo, it's better now. All the hobby stuff that wasn't available before, 3D printing, good quality cheap paints available everywhere, airbrushing pretty much perfected, quick shipping from all over the world. Just so many cool things to get into.
>>
Im painting a big booty latina model and doing lots of skin for the first time is there a good beginner friendly tutorial for me to watch or read?
>>
>>97032631
>airbrushing pretty much perfected
how has airbrushing changed since....the past century?
other than availability of cheap but quality airbrushes?
>>
>>97032695
The entire process is just so streamlined now. I've started on ancient Grafo from the 90s. Compared to Infinity I own now, it's a day and night difference. Sure, the basic function is the same (that haven't changed since like 1900s), but everything else is so much better. Atomization quality, handling, cleaning, and general ease of use, all so much better.
>>
>>97032437
>most people can barely afford single bedroom 25-35 square meter apartments nowdays

Anon, what are you talking about? Maybe in big cities what you describe is true (small apartments, high rents and also stores to play nearby), but pretty much every town below 100k is completely the opposite. Lots of empty apartments, reasonable rent and ofc, almost no gaming stores.
>>
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>got SS tracking number
I didn't get grinched at the very least, nice
>>
Which acrylic products aside from GSW's can be used to dye their UV Resin?
>>
>>97032722
Recommend me some cleaning/handling tutorials, I just bought an Infinity and I'm afraid to fuck it up.
>>
>>97032907
i'm pretty sure you can mix just about anything without strong solvents
if people can get away with mixing mica powder for their resin printers i don't see a problem with acrylics on uv resin
>>
>>97032944
don't they have their own branded tutorials for that? if not check vince venturella's channel, also there are some on priming on the op
>>
>>97032306
This. I have had my own hobby room for like a decade now, and growing up I played at home in my dad's hobby room (called 'The Warhammer Room')
>>
>>97032944
For cleaning, basically just do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qN1w-7ShK08

The cleanup takes seconds between switching paints, and like two minutes at the end of the day cleaning. Dude is generally a good source about airbrushing, moggs the fuck all hobby memesters.
For Infinity specifically, I would recommend what he does, but add a bit more cleaner - Medea (from Iwata) is my cleaner of choice. It's odorless, you can buy a huge bottle that will last you a long, long time, and it just cleans acrylics consistently well.
Otherwise, it depends if you are going with 0.25 or with 0.4 needle. 0.25 is tiny, so have something like an old drybrush dipped into Medea ready to remove that paint often from your needle during the painting.

Just make sure you have your double action painting in check, and you won't fuck it up. The cool thing about infinity is actually how silly durable it is. The worst thing you can do is to mess up the insides with paint, but cleaning is easy.

There's also the HS own Infinity (unlisted) video: https://youtu.be/7Nb0N0UBPvI?si=kYYvT0WfImAbQQhh if you are really new to the entire thing. Also, when it comes to painting, I would generally recommend keeping the airflow constantly open and going with the clocking motion instead of just spraying constantly. Spanish dude explains it well here: https://youtu.be/Q2mkyhIfgEE?si=KcnrEuyEGDM_tymY&t=858 It's a very basic technique but for some reason it seems very rare among mini painters.

PS: If you already got the Infinity, make sure to un-tighten the nozzle when not in use. HS are sometimes dumbasses who overtighten the nozzle in the factory, which results in o-ring getting fucked. Buying a replacement is extremely cheap and replacing it is easy, but still, it's better to prevent it.
>>
>>97032852
>Lots of empty apartments, reasonable rent
Where the fuck do you live? A US flyover state?
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>>97031398
just shove a dark wash in it and paint from the inside out
>>
>>97032575
Fair points. I'm sure milliput dust wouldn't be the worst thing I've inhaled, but I'd rather not compound any issues that way be waiting for me in the future
>>
>>97033102
Germany. Pick a city/town thats below 100k inhabitants and you will find something easily. Bonus points if you are able to speak the language and got a job, obviously.
>>
>>97033330
I'm Dutch, be right there.
>>
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Anon accused me of lying.
I wonder what these little orange symbols mean?
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Tried to slander me, and assassinate my character.
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GW couldn't POSSIBLY specifically state that you should paint certain things before you assemble them.
R-right?
>>
>>97033464
Nobody accused you of lying, they just asked you which instructions.
You asked twice if they thought you were lying, got no response and had a melty
>>
>>97033471
>Tried to slander me, and assassinate
Did he send Deathmaster Snikch?
>>
>>97033520
His ask for what instructions clearly had an accusatory tone to it.
Anon didn't reply because he wanted to imply that I was a liar without actually having to take a stance on it himself and commit. My melty is warranted.
>>
>>97033586
you may need to seek professional help
>>
>>97033592
No. I CLEARLY need to seek professional help. But that is beside the point.
>>
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Took 6 weeks to paint these guys and I still need to make bases for them (and they are those bases with "slots" for corresponding elements on minis so it will be little problematic with paste or trying to glue in floor tiles or similar decoration).

With that speed I wonder if I will ever finish my entire backlog. And there are also ~14cm plastic girls models from Kotobukiya and the like but we don't talk about them...
>>
>>97029056
Dem cuties :3
>>
>>97032899
>I didn't get grinched at the very least, nice
>at the very least
This gives me bad vibes. Like you're going to assign a score to the gift received.
>>
>>97033974
I did not mean that at all, are you the same autist who felt that "accusatory tone"?
>>
>>97033990
NTA. Wouldn't feeling intent that isn't there be the opposite of autism? Like.. neuroticism or something?
>>
>>97034017
I just wanted to insult him, didn't put that much thought into it honestly
>>
>>97034021
I understand, your insult just made me wonder.
>>
>>97034017
not every autist lives in a bubble, some are overly emotional too
>>
>>97034146
I'm like that for example. I'm still crashing out over anon implying I'm a liar.
>>
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So, with bases like this, I can apply terrain paste but cannot glue in plastic or similar elements for floor imitation so "dark cathedral" for dark elves cannot be done the way I imagined it. Anyone got other good idea for such theme?

Also, "Japanese snowy mountain" base would be similar to any other high altitude rocky area, right? Aka dark brown ground, dark gray rock clusters and snow paste over selected spots? Image search has gone to shit, typing "Japanese mountain area" gives me generic Mt Fuji views with same "content aggregate site" (somehow always "ar.inspiredpencil", these guys flooded image search results) or Etsy 3D printed bases.
>>
>>97034146
I know they get emotional, having trouble picking up social queues is probably very frustrating. But picking up phantom social queues seems the opposite problem to me, fuck if I know though.

>>97034209
He's a nameless nobody on the internet that you'll never meet, why care?
>>
>>97034250
>but cannot glue in plastic or similar elements for floor imitation
Why not?

>Also, "Japanese snowy mountain" base would be similar to any other high altitude rocky area, right?
The only thing that sets Japan apart enough visually for anyone but some botanical expert to notice is those damn cherry blossoms, so I don't think you're gonna sell snowy rocks as especially Japanese.
>>
>>97034288
It's just that I have some guys who, according to lore, are both fantasy-Japanese and operate from snow mountain regions. Official art have them with just snow ground, I simply wanted something with more variety.

>why not
Maybe it's just me but I would need to leave holes for feet in plastic layer and that would look awful. When I can pin model legs it's not a problem, hole is not visible, here hole have specific shape. Inb4 "cut this connection part and pin feet on your own" - they are too small, I already nearly destroyed one by trying to pin 0.8mm wire in it.
>>
>>97034254
cues, social cues
>>
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Looking back on it, I wish I got these done in October but here are some spooky Dwarves! I'm not a fan of painting undead but I think I did a better job on these than I usually do with undead skin tones
>>
>>97034288
>The only thing that sets Japan apart enough visually for anyone but some botanical expert to notice is those damn cherry blossoms, so I don't think you're gonna sell snowy rocks as especially Japanese.
Yeah, cultural artefacts are needed to really show it's Japan. Jizo statues, stone lanterns...
>>
Are gamers grass laser plants too large to use on 28 mm bases? The look great on larger bases without models on them, but I dunno if they'll crowd the base too much.
>>
>>>97034327
>that would look awful
Those would be hidden under their feet, right?

>>97034399
Sorry, not my main language.
>>
Some questions for you guys /wip/.
I got some armor panels I want to oil wash. Should I highlight them prior to oil washing, and then remove the wash to show the highlights, or oil wash then highlight after. Any pros or cons to either approach?
Also I got some satin airbrush varnish (Vallejo Mecha brand if that matters). I'm guessing definitely have a mask on? Also how long should I wait for it to dry before applying the oil wash? Should I wash before or after transfers are applied?
Thank you for your time and happy holidays
>>
>>97034327
why can't you just superglue the plastic ontop of the terrain?
>>
>>97034496
On the scale model side the default is to paint it all up first, including any highlights and shading, before going for the oil wash/panel lining. This lets you unify the texture and seal in everythign under a protective varnish coat before you start playing around with the white spirits. And while you often wash before highlights when using acrylic washes on figurines, that's because the acrylic wash will tend to stain everything a bit and when it dries you're not realistically cleaning it off, so if the highlights were there before it the wash would dull them down. Now that could at times be something you want (single step wash&filter), and in that case you do the wash last, but it usually isn't.

>Also I got some satin airbrush varnish (Vallejo Mecha brand if that matters). I'm guessing definitely have a mask on?
Acrylics like that should be reasonably harmless, but fine dust particles (like atomised paint mist at various stages of drying) isn't exactly great for your lungs. So if you have a mask you may as well wear it, but I wouldn't consider it suicidal if you don't. Work on good habits if nothing else.

>Also how long should I wait for it to dry before applying the oil wash?
I'd wait a bit longer than i you were just painting on more acrylics. The next day is absolutely ok, a few hours will likely be just fine.

>Should I wash before or after transfers are applied?
Unless you want the markings to stand out bright and clean to show a somewhat worn vehicle recently getting fresh new markings then you want the markings (ie the decals) to be about as worn and grimy as the rest of the vehicle. Thus decals first, then varnish to protect them, and then the wash (then after cleaning that up another coat of varnish before dot filters and streaking and pigments and whatnot...)
>>
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Currently working on my backlog of sci fi minis from 1979-1985 (yes I am that old, and that lazy).

Most are Citadel Spacefarers and Ral Partha, but there was one I couldn't place. It's an odd one - I mean, two heads?

Turns out it's by Heritage Models, who went out of business in 1982. Anyone have anything else by them?

It is now a WIP. :)
>>
>>97032299
well first of all there wouldn't be unpainted areas on them and secondly they might be slightly easier to identify at a glance.

>>97032354
I fail to see the problem. the more parts something is broken into the easier it is to paint. look at how gundams have like 400 parts, but you can just paint each one individually and when you put it together everything is the right color without ever having to worry about getting the wrong color on a part while trying to paint something next to it.
>>
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>>97034680
>
>“Zaphod?” exclaimed Ford.
>
>“Yes,” said Arthur, glaring at him and trying not to feel foolish. “He only had the two arms and the one head and he called himself Phil, but…”
>
>“But you must admit he did turn out to be from another planet,” said Trillian, wandering into sight at the other end of the bridge. She gave Arthur a pleasant smile which settled on him like a ton of bricks and then turned her attention to the ship’s controls again.
>>
>>97034785
Heh, those were also my thoughts when I pulled this one out of the box, but I think Zaphod only had three arms, not four.

Regardless, I will look out for other heritage models resembling Marvin the Paranoid Android. :)
>>
>>97034609
Thanks for the advice anon! It's appreciated
>>
>>97034496
I pretty much stopped using acrylic washes ages ago, and my usual workflow is:
>basecoat
>gloss varnish
>decals
>full oil wash
>cleanup with a makeup sponge without solvent
>let it dry
>pinwash/shading with oil paints
>let it dry
>highlights, chipping, weathering, etc.
>post-shading with airbrush if needed
>ultra matte varnish to seal it all off
I like to keep highlighting and such to the end because I have better control over it that way. Also, from my experience, you often have to go a lot more vivid/bright if you go with basecoat > highlights > oil wash. It's all imo a matter of preference, test what suits you, anon.
>>
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>>97034680
>one I couldn't place. It's an odd one - I mean, two heads?
It's a Zaphod Beeblebrox from a licensed or knockoff Hitchiker's Guide set. On that note, don't buy Tangent Miniatures' HHG models, they're covered in badly-handled support scars and layer line glitches from dogshit 3DP masters
>>
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Working on my Lancer since yesterday, wasn't sure how the red would come out but happy with it. Need to make the silver look a bit less shiney do the weapon castings, then all the other tiny bits.
>>
>>97034508
What do you mean? I was gluing plastic to base before, the problem here is how I would need to cut holes in exactly same shape as existing connection points on base, which I definitely can't do.

>>97034466
Not really, feet are not big enough.
>>
Anyone used the Liquitex Acrylic Ink? it's on sale on amazon
>>
>>97035092
I did, few colors. What exactly you want to know?
>>
>>97034979
Never seen those before - thanks for the photo. The one I posted is from around 1980-1981, ie right around the time HHG was popular, so I suppose it qualifies as a knockoff although I don't have much (actually any) information on it other than the company name. :)
>>
>>97035099
did you find them useful? or just not worth the effort?
>>
>>97035185
As with any inks, they have their uses like glazing (especially white but many of their inks are less opaque) but I don't consider them "must have". Except white maybe since it's otherwise hard to paint color and inks in general have high concentration of pigment. But those marked as semi-opaque can replace contrast paints and are better at that since you can mix them for highlighting and shadows.

One problem I ran into is how they easily reactivate or in general smear when I try to use varnish or decal fixer with brush.
>>
I wish I just had space marine models available and ready to paint when I'm bored. But instead I gotta build them and shit and by then I don't want to paint one anymore.
>>
>>97035321
Next time you're at a Warhammer store, see if you can smooze the manager into giving you a free ETB Infernus Marine. It will already be built and primed and, as an added bonus, this particular model is unique - not available as part of any kit or boxed set.
>>
I came across a sale of some AK's AFV(?) series paints at a local store. Is there anything to know about these?
I was thinking about buying a few, and all I could find is it's just one type of their color range. Only been messing our with an AP starer set so far so I don't know much about the brands.
>>
>>97035480
AFVs are regular AK 3rd gen (=very good), the only difference is that they are exclusively irl military colors, both historical and contemporary. They are good, and pretty much all colors I've tested are accurate. Personally like them a lot.
>>
>>97035480
>Only been messing our with an AP starer set so far so I don't know much about the brands.
AK 3gen is, imo, generally the best acrylic paint range. Can't really go wrong with them.
>>
>>97029619
An actual balloon, the heavier kind of rubber that could inflate bigger but don't, just to the size you want it to be, then you can basically paper mache around it, but maybe with wet wipes. Use a reference picture for sure
>>
>>97035520
>>97035529
thanks, sounds good
>>
>>97035611
Yeah, I personally went from AP to AK some time ago and I've never looked back. AP are not bad paints per se, but AK does everything better, and they are without AP quirks.
>>
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Man, it feels like there's 10 different versions of Olive Drab. How does one chose...
>>
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I think I'm content with my biker Archon and ready to start painting him. Instead of giving him a flag, his trophy pole is going to be magnetized, and I'll make a small collection of swappable victims to represent whatever faction he's fighting
>>
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>>97035740
I want to go to an all-you-can-eat buffet with Oguri Cap.
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>>97035764
>swappable victims to represent whatever faction he's fighting
Cool, love that. Also good to see some true kin.
>>
>>97035766
anon, think of the poor buffet...
>>
>>97035740
There's a *reason* these jokes exist
>>
>>97036189
That picture is wrong and it always make mad. German Grey, for example, is a lot darker.
>>
>>97036202
anon please...
>>
>>97036209
But I'm painting with it right now
>>
>>97036202
And a lot of those greys should be leaning in all manner of directions except for the dead neutral seen there.
>>
>>97036189
That top color is called Fine Scale Modelers?
>>
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progrees

pro tip: always put helmets in your gaslands crew, painting faces this small is a pain
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Just primed this thing, I'm really happy with it!
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>>97036409
Proppa orky.
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>>97033480
It's fairly useless when they do. The hermes sentinel kit tells you to prepaint the little shoulder pads on the pilot.
>>
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Gonna completely redo those eyes but I love how gold he is so far.
>>
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Startan some orks. Just to palette cleanse between long batch painting sessions on my current army project building one or two boyz.
>>
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Doing a bit of conversion on this tank, I wanted the combi to be a hull mount so I'm trying to figure out something. I still need to do some more cutting so everything fits nice, but this is what I got so far, what do you lads think?
>>
I'm getting extremely out of scope for my SS box. But I have all the parts I need now I think.
>>
>>97034052
autist detected.
>>
>>97034405
paint looks a bit thick, but that might be due to the lighting and photo. I like the oldschool shading and highlighting. it is solid.
>>
>>97036424
that's pretty cool
>>
>>97036432
>>97037350
Thanks guys
>>
>>97037279
looks like it's aiming at the sky
>>
>>97037492
Fuck the sky
>>
>>97036189
Should have gone a step further differentiating between warm and cool grays.
>>
>>97036189
This reminds me of when I was trying to mix a very specific grey color.
None of them were right and I gave up btw.
>>
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The cheesetide is now battle ready (tm). Might weather it later
>>
>>97037750
NGL, all your WIP pictures looked like shit, but now that the panel lining is cleaned up and it's not glossy it turned out pretty nice.
>>
>>97037750
clean AF!
>>
>>97037279
I would slice the ammo belts off and stuff them further into the hull. also don't forget to drill the barrels.
>>
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Trio
>>
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More oils. Im seeing if I can use an oil wash to "basecoat" my base. I don't see why it wouldn't work. Verdigris is on half of them, and white oils for when I do my OSL. Tomorrow I want to finish the verdigris and start on the rust.
>>
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>>97037492
>>97037885
Well yeah, I said I needed some more cutting. This is it I think, turned out pretty good imo.
>>
>>97038107
that looks a lot better
>>
Whats the consensus on the best rim color for winter bases?
>>
>>97038294
Goblin green.
>>
>>97038294
black

>>97038312
kek. Okay maybe this.
>>
>>97038294
Black. Base rims are framing for the base, so the stronger the contrast the better. So black is generally the best option for base rims unless intentionally mimicking a specific hobby era style.
>>
>>97038387
>goose with goblin green bases chases you
>"What specific era would you be mimicking?"
>"What specific era!?"
>>
>>97038467
The 90's of course.
>>
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Progress on the dwarf and p'orc treasure hunter!
>>
What's the hype about vallejo true metallics really?
>>
>>97038804
They use stupid-fine grinds on their pigment and it goes on very bright and level. Little bit more of a pain to handle but it looks very, very good when you get it right. Also they sell huge bottles for relatively cheap
>>
Is Greenstuff basically the same as Tamiya epoxy putty?
>>
>>97030545
Just Krell
>>
>>97035185
interesting to AB, best yellow I've seen is ABd yellow ink, very slightly reactivate but not a deal breaker
>>
>>97036424
Nice
>>
>>97039313
Slightly different but yeah you can achieve the same thing, seen plenty of sculptors use tamiya quick to convert minis
>>
>>97039313
Seems to be the same general idea, but apparently somewhat different consistency.
>>
>>97037750
His head lenses need some pop.
>>
>>97037750
bro looking like he just left the assembly line, nice
>>
>>97039313
no, greenstuff is more 'gummy', less sticky and hardens softer and more flexible
tamiya quick type is more like milliput when hardened, aka rock hard, rigid, easy to sand
>>
>>97032057
Haha, glad you like them, anon. More is being worked on.
>>
>>97038107
You can add some rivets down there, too. Citadel sculptors put them everywhere for some reason, but it would fit the style.
>>
Is there an update to stahly's swatch? Sorry for asking but I haven't been here for a few months
>>
>>97039501
The latest version that's been posted here is 2.3, and that's what's currently up on his Patreon.
>>
Anyone had a chance to try out Ionic paints? Any opinions?
>>
>>97040024
just get AK
>>
>>97040114
no? why?
>>
>>97040120
it just werks
>>
My secret Santa gave such a vague description of what he wants, I'm really at a loss what to buy. I still haven't gotten him anything and I'm dangerously close to grinching, it's giving me anxiety trying to think of something when he gave me almost nothing to go off of
>>
>>97040451
this is a shitpost btw
>>
>>97040460
Okay
>>
>>97040460
I hope you are his santee kek
>>
>>97040451
why? that just means he's ok with whatever, just pick anything you like
>>
>>97040557
Nah, my wishlist wasn't vague. Still, I have trouble believing someone signing up for SS wouldn't be prepared to come up with a basic gift of some painting supplies and a random miniature or kit he personally likes. Therefore "I'm dangerously close to grinching" is a shitpost trying to make SS participants uncomfortable. Earlier on it was making shit up so that people wouldn't sign up, now it's making shit up that someone's getting grinched. That's what I think, at least.
>>
>>97040451
Gift him Primaris space marines. Everyone loves those
>>
>>97040611
THERE ARE SHIT POSTERS LIVING IN MY WALLS
>>
>>97040451
Assuming this is not a shitposting - how vague? You can always figure something out, if it's something like "anything cool because I only paint" then pick whatever YOU personally think is cool and enjoyed. That's what I did myself.

And I admit I have both models and sweets but my social anxiety is kicking in and somehow I'm scared of writing a letter. For last entire week.
>>
>>97040451
The more vague they are, the more you get to fill in the blanks, enjoy.
Probably just someone who's in it for the surprise.
>>
>>97040704
>I'm scared of writing a letter.
The dude is used to 4chan, the bar is very low. Even if you write some incoherent schizo-post, he'll probably find it amusing.
>>
>>97040704
>>97040720
Just send him your erotic fanfiction for one of your squads.
>>
>>97040451
Give him beautifully painted dragon dildos.
>>
>>97040451
If this isn't a troll post like above anons are suggesting, then did the giftee say something along the lines of "my first time, surprise me"?
>>
I hope my giftee doesn't feel cheated or disappointed.
>>
>>97040855
I do!
>>
Scored a tank chassis without the hover plates in an ebay lot, Have any of you made a tracked impoulsor conversion?
I don't have access to a printer, but I have plenty of PS plastic.
>>
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Rook Halden, my Desperado for Dark Heresy. our dm granted us 1 special item to start, so I gave rook a mask that augments his perception
>>
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>>97040930
I vaguely remember some kitbash with 1:35 tank, I think it was Merkava, but I'm not sure. Theoretically any scale model would do.
That said, I'm pretty sure there also was someone selling physical printed conversion sets for tracked impulsors.
There's fuckload of really cool conversion STLs, consider getting someone to print them for you.
>>
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>>97040967
I did a bit more digging and found this guy's solution.
https://creativetwilight.com/scratch-built-tank-tracks/
It looks simple enough, and any irregularities will be (for the most part) on the underside
>>
>>97041034
Afaik, old Rhino tracks should also fit.
>>
>>97040114
AK are my main palette already, I am just curious about trying something else
>>
>>97040967
>>97041034
papercraft seems complicated but it is pretty easy when you get to it and have sharp tools
just google papercraft 40k and buy a hole punch
>>
>>97040855
Same kek, I had a really hard time figuring how much stuff is "enough" and how much is "too much". The more the merrier of course, but still have more people to gift this year, can't spend anything on one anon.
>>97040451
What was it anon? Most of the descriptions, no matter how vague, can give you at least some idea
>>
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>tfw I realize I'm putting more effort into a gift for some autist from a mongolian basket weaving forum than I ever did for friends or family
>>
>>97041333
it's ok anon you are making someone happy
>>
>>97041317
>papercraft
If you are not a top tier papercraft autist, it will look like utter shit. Anon should either print or get some scale model and kitbash.
>>
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>>97041333
Anon discovers why community is overpowered and the devs reputedly try to nerf it
>>
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>>97040942
Fun speed paint
>>
Anyone else get in a huge hobby slump this time of year? I have no desire to pick up a brush despite having ample project options to choose from right now. Pretty sure it's SAD. Need to take vitamin D.
>>
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>>97041374
i made some papercraft models year ago after trying my hand with them 20 years back
> it will look like utter shit. Anon should either print or get some scale model and kitbash
not necessarily you never know until you try and that said trying in this case costs next no nothing and these days internet is full of them templates

btw if someone still remembers me i promised to finish that warhound titan by last christmas but its still wip
>>
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there she is still moisturized and on her lane ready the painted
>>
>>97041491
is that just plasticard, wood and epoxy? seems like it would buckle under it's own weight
>>
Shipped my SS today
Now I wait
>>
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>>97041523
>plasticard, wood and epoxy
nothing that fancy just 200g printing paper, cheap superglue, frozen pizza box and plastic file folder with few wooden parts
it can stand on its own ok and is pretty sturdy and you can take the torso off if needed
just not sure how to paint it
>>
>>97041491
>>97041593
Is there a template you used for this or just on your own?
>>
>>97041523
nts but paper stronk, if you layer it into thick segments to use as structural supports even without any other materials you'd be surprised how much paper can bear if it's laminated well by the glue.
>>
>>97041621
like i said i used to do these 20 years ago and they have only gotten better it seems
just google papercraft its that easy

>>97041645
second this paper is not flimsy when you either saturate it with glue or back it up with another layer
>>
How can I manage a good smoldering wood look? I have terrain with sculpted cracks so I don't think I need any texture effects. So far I'm thinking of speed painting dark red with some orange spots then drybrushing black & dark brown with spots of gray
>>
>>97041850
i think you would want to go the other way. start with black, then white, then red, then orange. because each is a smaller area.
>>
>>97041850
Does this help (timestamped)?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Obt8nGhcz0&t=6840s
>>
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Started basecoating the kitbashed invictor. Now onto varnish and oils.
>>
>>97041850
I would paint it a dark red, with "reverse highlights" further into the cracks, then drybrush with black, grey and maybe some VERY light white over it. So the cracks are "glowing" while the outer areas are more "burned"
>>
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>>97041850
Start by basing with dark brown + a bit of black for the charred wood, run a black wash into the recesses then drybrush with a pale, beige sort of colour for the ashy bits
For the smoldering glow, start by drybrushing red, then do more layers of drybrushing up through orange, yellow, and some small areas of creamy off-white for the brightest spots. Applying paint over a smaller area with each subsequent, brighter layer
>>
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>>97042738
You're gonna want to flip that arrow, a smouldering coal or lava flow or whatever tends to have its hottest and thus brightest spots inside, while the bits that jut out (and thus catch the most highlights when you drybrush) are cooled more and thus get darker.
>>
>>97042776
Just looking at the reference pic of charred wood back upthread, the heat's getting more intense towards the edges and corners, presumably because the inner areas are already too charred to sustain the fire anymore
>>
>>97042606
Reminds me of Cain from Robocop2 in a good way. I like what you've got, I have a weakness for cannons with big brakes.
>>
>>97042798
Nah. Someone’s blowing on it or some such. Wood and charcoal don't burn from the inside and out.
>>
SS package for my paint guzzling anon is ready, only need to get the paperwork for customs done, it'll be shipped by the end of the month.
>>
>>97042738
>>97042798
Have you guys sat by a campfire or bonfire, or stood by a charcoal barbecue?
>>
>>97042904
Thanks anon!
>I have a weakness for cannons with big brakes.
You and me both. I also like the idea of Raptors using Invictors as oversized snipers.
>>
Secret Santa here, first time doing it. Is sending a set of figs with a snack and a letter enough, or is it too „stingy”? I don’t want my santee to get disappointed, but I don’t really have funds to send them two combat patrols either…
>>
>>97041394
metal and rust look good
mud looks great too but its weird why would you do that before finishing the whole model
>>
>>97043464
People do what they can. Don't feel too pressured to go nuts.
>>
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Made some mistakes with the bone on this that I had to strip so it's looking a bit messier than I was hoping. Maybe come back to it or just treat it as a test scheme and print another one to go on the final team. But most of it came out pretty good.
>>
>>97043464
Wtf dude, don't give people figs. They'll get all rotten by christmas. And they taste like crap
>>
>>97043694
dont scare people like that dried figs have a shelf life of like 40 years
they might not taste all that good but point is they taste just as good after 4 decades too
>>
>>97041427
Just take a break man. And if its been a few weeks just pick a random model and turn your lamp on. I find that if l just start it helps. Loke literally jist turn on lamp. Load up palette. Grab model. Eventually youll just start going again.
>>
>>97043847
It's a yearly thing at this point for me. Once the days are real short and I'm getting hardly any D I just don't have the motivation to sit down. I think last year I went from like October until March or April. I planned on finishing that damn Red Gobbo but I think when I sit back down it'll have to be a fresh project.
>>
>>97041427
I actually just got over a hobby slump. It was brutal, I got promoted at work and just no-lifed work and played video games. The hobby time is far more valuable and worth it.
>>
>>97043888
You've mentioned you should try taking vitamin D supplements so why don't you? It's cheap and available everywhere, at least where I live.
>>
>>97043888
>It's a yearly thing at this point for me. Once the days are real short and I'm getting hardly any D I just don't have the motivation to sit down.
Get a fucking therapy light, man. something like these https://verilux.com/collections/happylight-therapy-lamps-boxes
They work better than you'd think. Also take your vitamin D with dinner, it's a precursor chemical for melatonin and can help you sleep. I wound up getting mildly narcoleptic for a while when I started supplementing D, once I shifted to taking them at night it helped with my insomnia.
>>
>>97044405
>>97043888
>supplements

Whats wrong with just eating some fruits?
>>
>>97044640
>Why don't you just get vitamin D from fruits?
kek
>>
>>97044640
That's C anon. You're still right though, just not from fruit.
>>
Airbrushed and washed some test models after on and off model building for months. It is interesting to see how transformative washes can be on color, as well as how easily inks can be fed into the former, though:

>getting a lot of streaking from the washes, using too small of a brush?
>models that had a layering of primer > metallic > ink or new layer of metallic seemed to have their topmost one coming off in some spots as the wash was applied, as opposed to primer + TTC's Omega Blue; does it have less adhesion as a third layer, or would it need more time before painting on the model?
>not sure if a 50/50 thinner/paint mix is a bit much for TTC metallics, as it seemed like it wasn't applying to the model as well (and yet it has held the best), forgot that I didn't use any flow improver but would have to check later if it would mean anything

In the case of one inquisitor, a zenithal highlight has cooperated just fine, but I imagine that mixing inks with silver to spray on a primed model might have to be the plan. One model out of this image has deep turquoise ink on him, suppose I'll see if he's any different or not tomorrow.
>>
>>97044719
Now check how much you need to eat of those to get enough of vitamin D, let alone some greater dose (which is good for you).

Supplementing vit D is very much required for 1) Europeans, 2) during the winter time, 3) people who don't have perfectly set up diet routines.
Just get D(3 or 2, doesn't matter)+K2 combo, preferably sublingual application (usually as a spray). 1000 IU/day is a baseline, 2000 UI is better.
>>
>>97044780
>1) Europeans
Europeans need to supplement less. Anyway, eat a lot of eggs.
>>
>>97044806
Most of the Europe doesn't get enough sun during the winter. So we need to supplement.
>>
>>97044817
We've lived here for thousands of years without supplements existing.
>>
>>97044825
yeah but we weren't holed up indoors for most of our lives in these past thousands of years, retard
>>
>>97044825
There's a lot of space between living and living well. I'm just telling you how to optimize your vit D intake.
>>
>>97044827
Yeah, everyone just frolicked outside during winter. Working the fields.

>>97044828
I already supplement, but that's because I literally don't leave the house. But you don't have to, you can just eat proper food instead of overly processed carb sludge. Anyway, we're going off-topic, so lets end it.
>>
>>97044837
>you can just eat proper food
That's the thing, if you are aiming for higher vit D dosages (which you should), you can't just eat food. 100g of pork is what, 50 IU?
>>
First time trying speedpaint medium, is it supposed to get goopy? I tried it with some Vallejo ink, went 3 drops medium to 2 ink and some water, seemed okay but really thickened up suddenly and half is dried on my wet palette, with a few chunks/flakes on it.
>>
>>97044843
Pork is obviously one of the lesser ones on the list. Liver or eggs do a lot better.

>>97044858
Define "some water", because it sounds like your ratio is off.
>>
>>97044874
>eggs
Eggs are good and you should be eating them a lot, but it's not that different from pork when it comes to vitamin D. It's like 80 IU/100g.
>>
>>97044874
It was probably the water, I noticed my wet palette wasn't actually that wet and I had only used a brush loaded up with water. Basically had to keep adding more and more water but most of it still remains on the palette. Seems like it worked on the models at least.
>>
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Made the banner.
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>>97044970
is that just aluminum foil?
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>>97044970
Missed opportunity to give him a pistol implying he beats things to death with the banner
>>
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>>97045122
Nice rat, would sabotage
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>>97045122
What’s his name, squeeka?
>>
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First mini ever. Tried my best with tendonitis, polyneuropathy etc. just general fucked health I used as en excuse never to try before.
I feel like it's looking decent.

Actually need advice is why I'm here. I got agrax earthshade in the box and army painter strong tone.
I'll probably go with agrax for the first one to see how it goes.
How hard should I go with it? Is it okay to just carelessly brush it on and only focus on avoiding pooling?
Also how long do I need to wait for the rest of this rat to dry?

Used mostly citadel paints and mixed with black to get a darker leather, white army painter for eyes and army painter metal too.
The base is dry, I did that part yesterday when priming with the brush on... (I'll never brush on prime ever again.)

Here is a video of a full rat rotation: https://files.catbox.moe/8nvz7k.mp4
I'm happy with it. Will highlight it a bit once the shade thing dries, hopefully the shade RNG favors me.

Another thing I need advice is, since he is my first little dude I wanna make him a bit cooler.
I got a bright green color "emerald forest" from army painter as an extra to the 2 starter boxes (army painter knight one, and the 5 skaven citadel one.).
How do I best utilize it?
I already added 2 white dots for eyes, which should help make it pop more after shade. Would it look decent if I made the eyes green?
I'm too noob for glow effects, but I feel like it might be fine or would it ruin it?

I'm also thinking of drawing the triangle necklace thing he has in green on the shield, but I'll probably pass on that for now.
Maybe I'll add a bit of a green edge to the sword or more like a shank he got.

Thanks.
>>
>>97045798
Also not trying to suck my own dick here or anything, but I do feel like this guy looks a lot better in person compared to how he looks flashbanged on video.
>>
>>97045812
Don't get dissuaded by that. Taking good pictures of your mini is an art on its own, especially with all the shitty phone cameras around (and they are ALL shitty, don't get mistaken).
>>
>>97045798
as anon pointed out you will learn to hate the phone camera and how it kills all your hard worder highlights etc
on the other end of the spectrum is photoshop anon but less said about him the better
>>
>>97044837
I remember back to my youthful summers plowing the snowfields to mine for ice, truly a better time
>>
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Im almost done with bases for my Kin (still need black rim) I went with the icy planet base what do you think?
>>
>>97046008
>as anon pointed out you will learn to hate the phone camera and how it kills all your hard worder highlights etc
it's lack of basic photographing skill that kills your highlights, not the phone camera
>>
>>97045812
Most likely, in normal conditions the lower luminosity can hide some mistakes. It’s why it’s important to paint in a well lit environment because my place is kinda dim and i’ve finished entire units then I turn on the lamp for a pic and I see mistakes that were basically invisible beforehand.
>>
Brehs why did I discover nail art brushes only now. These shits are cheap as fuck and perfect for painting small details
>>
>>97045798
Ah, yes-yes, the Skaven. Glad to see you joining in!

For Agrax, I think it's better to go thinner than thicker if you are unsure. Always can do another pass if you don't like the results.

The "triangle" thing you want to draw is actually a great idea and nothing you should be afraid of doing! Since it's paw-painted by the rats anyway, it doesn't have to be perfect. Hell, it adds more personality if it isn't perfect.

As for eyes, usually you will see people go for red, but it is your little dude, so if you want them green, go for it! Thin your paint of choice until it's a glaze and give it pass or two after the first one dries. The white paint from beneath will still peek out, so it will look like they are glowing, in a way.

As for drying, I usually use a hair dryer to speed up the process, and the drying process itself is very dependant on your environment, humidity, temperature etc.
>>
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>>97046248
The great horned rat has been honored through some further efforts.
I feel like I should have done this after the earthshade, but it is what it is.

I'll try to thin the earthshade I guess to the best of my ability.
I thought shades should be used straight from the put, but after testing on the sprue it looks a bit strong. I'll just drop it on my makeshift baking sheet palette and mix with some water drops.

Thanks for the suggestion on the eyes. I'll try my best.

All my life I couldn't ever make up my mind on what class to pick in mmos or games. Anything subjective basically.
Yet for some reason, I looked at AoS and it had to be skaven. I never made an easier decision.
Only reason I got this starter set is to see if I can do well enough to make it a long term hobby. I'll be getting the skaven half of skaventide soon.
>>
I do something terribly wrong with varnish, in particular Vallejo "Mecha Color" Matt varnish and honestly don't know what exactly. I still have some very cheap Chinese airbrush I wanted to use solely for priming/varnishing but whenever I try to varnish with it, I fail. Bottle claims I could use it without any thinning but I still mix two drops of airbrush flow improver, two drops of thinner and 10 drops of varnish. But when I try to spray it, it only start to throw large droplets instead, with 2 bar pressure. When I removed everything from the cup and flushed it with cleaner, I noticed that varnish dried and formed thick layer not just on front part of the needle but also inside. I honestly wonder what just happened and how I probably managed to damage the airbrush itself. I also tried replacing needle and nozzle from 0.3 to 0.5mm but even with empty cup, it would barely throw any air front the front (with 2 bar of pressure). Maybe I somehow damaged the seals? I made sure that needle and nozzle are compatible with this model.
>>
>>97046352
Skaven are just the coolest. Love those little stabby rascals.

Good luck! Looking forward to see more from you!
>>
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>>97046352
Nice sigil, I look forward to seeing your vermintide grow
>>
>>97026755
was literally just looking at Motley Crews.
Anyone know of any model makers that have more of these sort of wacky, Bosch-esque figure?
>>
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>>97047097
hell yeah
>>
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>>97047097
>>97047170
>>
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>>97047178
RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
>>
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Has anyone ever made terrain out of paper mache before? I'm broke as fuck but I wanna make a big hill 3'x3' as the centerpiece for an apocalypse game I'm planning for my FLGS
>>
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Here's the finished dwarf and progress on the p'orc. The purple is growing on me with the green and mustard pants.
>>
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Scratch built some barracks/bastion :)
Made with a sand castle beach toy, inspired by one of my favorite rts
>>
>>97047501
very based. Nice kitbash, anon!
>>
>>97047417
if you were planning on making anything from paper mache the first thing you should consider is the base
unless you make the thing on top of a plastic sheet it will warp like crazy
>>
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>>97047514
I probably have some mdf lying aroundm
>>
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>>97047505
Thanks, it was super fun to make
Looks nice on the table too!
>>
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Gave my trash-bashed starship some extra detailing and a simple paint job, think this is as finished as it's going to get.
>>
>>97047526
get some clamps to tie it down or weights to put on the edges
trust me it will look really wonky unless you tie it down somehow
>>
>>97047546
That thing looks big, is it heavy? How long did it take you to make?
>>
>>97047546
i like the paper plate starship
nice work anon
>>
>>97046052
snow/ice bases were definitely the correct choice, they contrast super nicely with your orange
>>
>>97047546
Nah, it's only about 12" long tip to tip. It's made of plastic junk- some fast food containers and a soap bottle, mostly- so it weighs next to nothin'.
Been working on it in a lackadaisical fashion since the beginning of the month.
>>97047633
Thank you :)
>>
>>97047546
A true WIPer
Takes trash and turns it into a model starship
>>
>>97045314
It's cut out of an aluminum can.
>>
Baker-san appears to be busy so here's a fresh bread
>>97048058
>>97048058
>>97048058



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