Work in Progress, "Beefy Gals" Edition>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebinhttps://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD>WIP Tutorial Images Megahttps://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s>Paint thinning 102https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginnershttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM>Decal Like a Prohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c>How to Edge Highlighthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk>How to use contrast style paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI>How to Paint with Tremorshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g>Airbrush Priming and Thinninghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxEhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special wayhttps://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny>Previous Threads:>>97048058>>97026755>>97005460>>96987343
Hey, lookI'm posting in a new thread!
WIP Secret Santa 2025 is underway!>2025https://imgur.com/a/I2xxkxJ>2024https://imgur.com/a/g7MfJE5>2023https://imgur.com/a/e9QOmJJ>2022https://imgur.com/a/2OWxHpg>2021https://imgur.com/a/TKfeLxU>2020https://imgur.com/a/TeduVrJ>2019[REDACTED]>2018https://imgur.com/a/UWRYKEq>2017https://imgur.com/a/qS7PH>2016https://imgur.com/a/1fxhq
>>97068496Secret Santa, woohooooo
Almost finished with the jump pack.Tried another way to do black armor using contrast and really don't like the very visible pooling around details.The thrusters look a bit boring, so I'm gonna freehand some yellow flames on them.
Reposting my progress on the falx barbarians from the previous thread. I sculpted fur to their cloaks. I think the late Roman helmet sprue still had some hairpieces for the helmets which I could add.By the way, what do you do to keep the metal nozzle of plastic glue from clogging? I just wash them and then use matches to burn the dried glue from the nozzle, but I suppose inhaling those fumes is very unhealthy.
Going to repaint my old KD Death High Dragon Sacrifice, but I'm not sure how I want to approach painting the pale skin, it turned out chalky last time. Does anyone have useful tips or a link to a useful guide? Most guides I found for skin are either too tan or too ghoulish for this.
>>97067893>I have no idea what the visual difference between brass and bronze isare people really this disconnected from reality? you must have seen tons of brass objects in real life like a saxophone or an old candlestick. bronze is less common in modern times, but everyone knows what a bronze medal looks like right? I don't understand how people can look at these colors and think "yep this is brass."
>>97068670What kinda plastic glue? Plastic cement doesn't dry.
>>97068777forgot image of "brass"
>>97068803NTA but I do recall the stuff in the testors tubes getting gummy. Idk how that works though, haven't used it since I was a kid.
>>97068486beefy gals you say? I have more where those Amazons came from
>>97068431Well. I beat my head against the wall and managed to get some pretty decent pictures but only after I moved from using my lightbox to using sticky tac to secure my plastic white backdrop to my desk and I had 2 desklamps and my Lucent for lighting. Still disappointed I needed to do some slight editing, but I'm not mad with the shots I got though I'm still missing my usual black backdrop. Hopefully image compression while uploading doesn't kill the colors.
>>97068803I've had the issue with GW and Revell plastic glue. The tiny metal nozzle gets clogged and needs to be purged with flame.
>>97068828take the fridgepill
>>97068828The eyes are stellar btw
>>97068833>>97068845Sir, it's the holiday season. There ain't an inch of real estate in the fridge. Thanks, though. This set of eyes cooperated surprisingly well considering I had to strip and re-prime the squad.
>>97068831>The tiny metal nozzle gets clogged and needs to be purged with flame.I think this is totally normal for those types of glue nozzles.
>>97068919It is, but plastic cement just mildly melts plastic, it can't dry, just evaporate.
I switched to a Mr hobby cement with a brush applicator years ago and haven't regretted it since.
>>97068938Tamiya airbrush cleaner is still the GOAT for affordable plastic glues, grab yourself a bottle if you ever need to refill your cement pot
>>97068944Is that true? I am somewhat a noob. I already buy a ton of the tamiya cement, it never lets me down. A cheaper replacement would be nice but I love the applicator.
>>97068975NTA, but Tamiya's airbrush cleaner has a near-identical composition (I want to say a ~1% difference in the acetone/butyl acetate mix) to their extra-thin cement and is so perfectly good as a much cheaper source of refills while keeping the pot for the applicator.
>>97068991yep, one is a 50/50 mix, the other is a 49/51 mix (presumably just for legal reasons)
I have overconsumed. Hopefully I can get done with my boosta blasta or finish up my rubrics over the next few days. I don't know anyone paints anything quickly.
>>97069000coincidentally, it's also really good for cleaning your airbrush
>>97069042IPA is better and cheaper
>>97069054>betterno>cheaperyes
>>97069042I wouldn't put this inside airbrush, honestly. I know it will dissolve paint for sure but also surely destroy any rubber seals inside.
>>97069057Yes, it's better for Acrylic. For lacquer just use hardware store lacquer thinner. All the airbrush cleaner products are crazy expensive for no reason
>>97069057>nogeez just let people drink whatever they want
>>97069060if your airbrush has rubber seals, you need to get a better airbrushmine has ptfe/teflon seals because it's designed to handle lacquer paints
>>97069074>mine has ptfe/teflon seals because it's designed to handle lacquer paintsAnd which airbrush is that?
>>97069074Im not going to pay more than I spend yearly on models to buy a single airbrush.
>>97069082but you don't buy any models and you don't have an airbrush either
>>97069074My Mr hobby Creo 270 has ptfe/teflon seals to handle lacquer right? Right?
>>97069078PS270
>>97069084yeah it does>>97069082this is not your conversation
>>97069084>>97069090Nice try, Mr. shill
>>97069093post models tourist
>>97069093>it's craftsperg againdo you really not have anything better to do you fucking failure
>>97069067buying tamiya airbrush cleaner is still wayyyy cheaper than buy tamiya extra thin cement (this is the real reason to buy it)
>>97069083I have local variant of Fengda 180 and huge backlog, so you are wrong with both statements.
>>97069110fengda has a teflon needle seal, tamiya airbrush cleaner won't damage it
>>97069128Like I said, local variant with rubber seal.
>>97068525Done with the flames.
>>97069131you can buy a seal replacement kit for like 5 bucks btw. Then you'd be able to use your tamiya airbrush cleaner as more than just plastic glue
>>97068991Nice ill give it a try. Unfortunately I just bought 4 bottles of cement this week lol. But I will refill this next time.
>>97068828minis are fantastic as are the pics. I sympathize greatly with the quest for true to life color and lighting temperatures <3
>see Vallejo’s new TMM range at hobby shop >looks like nail polish >consider buying a green one to test on Nurgle models>decide to research it and come back the next week>youtube is flooded with Spaniards shilling it as the next big thing including our old friend Juan Hidalgo>says he helped design them and has made 4 videos on them alreadyHas anybody tried these yet? They just look like really shiny and bright metallic paints and I can’t think of many situations where you’d use them outside of a normal acrylic or a regular “metal” color metallic.
>>97069234Just from the promo pics they seem to have a more even finish compared to other metallics. The big selling point would be the range of colours for me IMO.The spaniards are gonna gargle vallejo's balls no matter what, but i think they're actually right this time.
>>97069234im hoping for a good dark bronze, tin bitz replacement. Maybe a black steel, not interested in the rest of the rainbow. This range could have been a test line of like 12 paints
>>97069232I don't really see a point of these, you can do all that by tinting your metallics with inks, washes or speedpaints. I guess it could be nice if you're going to be using a metallic as main color for an army and want it super consistent across all your dudes I guess. Hidalgo is a full blown shill at this point which is a bit of a shame, I learned quite a bit from his earlier videos
>>97068496A certain scotanon should expect a parcel in 5 to 10 days. Regretfully I couldn't cover customs from my side, so expect an fee there (I'm sending you a cooler full of succulent meats of endangered animals - about 15kg, so that's probably going to be a big one).
>>97069234>Has anybody tried these yet?I ordered the aged metal set, so when I get those, I'll post a quick review.Also backed the new P3 range, including the metallics that are supposed to be very good. But those will arrive much later.
>>97068777anyone in the hobby can't tell they haven't ever seen a brass rod, even if just in passing on an hobby storebronze statues are in the streets of any country reallyand copper, well, there's this statue in new york...
These have been in storage for over a year until just nowThey dont all even fit on that shelf
Made some good progress on the lieutenant. Still not completely sold on the leather. May need to redo it.
>>97069835That leather is TOO weathered imo, you can barely see the original color. Tone it down a bit and it will look good. Nice jade armor tho
>>97068828Ohhh nice to see your elves here anon, they're lovely. You might need a stronger light for a white backdrop but honestly these pictures look great. Oh and a good habit to have is cleaning your phones camera lens before taking pictures.
Swedanon, if you are reading this you should have gotten a message from Santa that your package is chilling at your local Fedex facility. Don’t forget to pick it up!
>>97069891Neat. The shading makes it look appropriately like a cartoon character.
>>97069009What a disgusting display of piggery.
>>97068938The flat applicator brush is great for larger minis. Havent met a mr hobby product I didnt like.
>>97070143Someone's envious!
>>97070346nta, what's to be envious about?
>>97070412What is best in life? >To buy new models, have them painted, and hear the lamentation of poorfags
>>97070143Is there an actual difference between constant small purchases or one big purchase?I just spent 300€ on Battletech minis and TTRPG booksDoesn't really feel bad and I will work through them all over the next few monthsEspecially considering I got most of the stuff for 50% off because of a sale
>>97070476Of course there's no difference. As long as you are not just a weird ass hoarder, buying in bulk is absolutely no problem. For some reason it makes some spergs salty, though.
>>97069232>>97069866Thanks!As for the light it seems I’ll need a real retina cooker then. This was using my Lucent light on full blast from above and 2 super bright desk lamps almost right next to the minis. And after looking online, the specific dots I have seem to be dust particles that somehow got inside the phone and onto the lenses. Either I never noticed them or I got super unlucky because noticed them like 2 hours into my photo session. And I was trying to clean the lenses to also remove smudges on the glass.
>>97068944>>97068991You can go even cheaper than that if you just buy a bottle of hardware store cellulose thinner, which is also (at least the brand I use) just a 50/50ish mix of acetone and n-butyl acetate.Pic related, 300ml cost me less than 9 quid, and obviously gets cheaper when bought in bulk
>>97070703If you wanna go full retard (and retarded it kinda is, since we are saving pennies while burning away hundreds for plastic), you can just buy acetone and acetate and mix it yourself. There's nothing to it, and if you buy directly from chemical plants, you can get it REALLY cheap in bulk. Then again, you can just buy a bottle of Tamiya airbrush thinner or something, have it delivered to your door, refill your lil bottle with lil brush with it, that's it.
>>97070733Personally I bought 2 bottles of extra thin for the nice bottles themselves (one to use as glue, one for sprue goo) and just keep topping them up from my 3 year old bottle with a pipette
>tamiya thinEveryone is saying it's acetone + n-butyl acetate, but Grok is saying that's actually a common misconception and not true and that the main ingredient is Limonene.
>>97070733>we are saving pennies while burning away hundreds for plasticA bottle of tamiyas cleaner lasts me a couple months for both glue refills and actually cleaning the airbrush. I just buy it when purchasing some other hobby shit, I'm not going to bother buying seperate chemicals to save a couple bucks over the course of a year or more and anyone sperging out over this is an actual autist.
>>97070770It's just AI being retarded shit chatbot as usual. Ask it about Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner and you'll see yourself.
>>97070770Anon, AI chatbots are trained on Reddit posts. I shit you not. Makes sense when you open non-profiled search engine and start searching for various topics, many first page results will link to that site.
>>97070703>which is also (at least the brand I use) just a 50/50ish mix of acetone and n-butyl acetate.The one I bought once upon a time also contained a significant amount of toulene. Still worked at least somewhat as plastic cement if needed, though I never ran any tests to see if it was actually good or merely passable at it.>>97070770That's a different glue, and they're pretty up-front about which one. Though even there I doubt it's a main ingredient by weight/volume, as its main purpose is to overpower the scent of the other ingredients.
>>97070770The limonene is their glue for people that get allergic reactions to the normal glue/dislike the smells
>>97070919I think it is the main ingredientSince it isn't only about the smell but also allergic reactions
>>97070476It's not the size of your purchase anon, it's the value of it vs what you spent on it.For the cost of your picture I will be printing for years, what's more I will only be doing so for models that I decided on my own I wanted THEN went out and searhed for STL's and then printed. NOTHING on my shelves is there because I saw an advertisement and immediately went all soiface because "OMG NEW THING!!"I see at least 4 factions here, do you even play all those armies or are some of these boxes literally just because you saw it in the store while getting your mechanicus army and thought "OOH! That's shiny!"?
>>97071140Anon-kun, do you have a workout plan for those projections? They are fucking massive.
Some progress on TSonsTried something new for the lenses, not a fan how they turned out. I'm also thinking of ways to break up that red some, maybe the backpackThen cleanup
>>97071140So he buys stuff because he wants it, and you buy stuff in order to feel like you're totally above buying stuff...Sounds like he's the one getting actual value for his money.
>>97071520>So he buys stuff because he wants itNo, he buys stuff because GW tells him he wants it.I buy materials to make stuff when I naturally decide I want to.You can't stand on your side of the door and tell me what it looks like from my side, once you cross the freedom threshold it will become apparent to you just how much GW stockholmed you, it's worse than you think.We all know GW is fucking us, but when you're still in the scam it feels like it's just a few percentage points of cost, but it's so much more than that, the creative direction of hobbying after making the swith is so radically different that it exposes the GW "hobbying" as something you do as directed, not as desired, it's so bad you probably don't even remember what it feels like to have agency in that regard.
>>97071552nta but what the actual fuck are you babbling about lmao
My learning from today:Cut foam core with razor blades, and not x-acto/utility blades. Even if fresh and razor sharp, the legitimate razor does better. Probably because just because they're a little thinner.They leave a perfect edge.
>>97071650Tell me your IQ is <85 without actually telling me.
>>97071651Huh, that's my learning from today too...
>>97071696trying to justify your past poor spending habits and falling for GWs marketing with unironically delusional takes does not make you smart
>>97071552Unironic brainrot.
>>97071552One person's opinion.
>>97071728>>97071552>>97071140Lmao. Nice bait.
>>97071728i think you forgot to take your meds today amigo
>>97071552
>>97071140>I see at least 4 factions hereIt's 3. God forbid a man like Admech, Orks, and Thousand Sons.
>>97070770>>97071044You'd know if it contained Limonene because limonene is what gives that "artificial" citrus smell in things like goo gone. It's also less aggressive than acetone in dissolving some plastics. It's great at dissolving things like asphalt though.t. chemfag who works in a lab and uses it as a solvent
How the fuck do I seal XPS foam for priming and painting? Google tells me to make a mix of paint, PVA and water and apply it, but that stuff doesn't stick to the smooth surfaces. I'm also not supposed to sand or heat it since the gas is toxic?
>>97072007I usually just slather some acrylic diorama paste. You know, shit like AK makes. Use an old credit card to smooth it out if needed.
I bought some vallejo brown earth diorama fx texture stuff to spread on my bases because I thought it'd look good and earthy when dry, but seems like everyone just primes over and paints their bases in the end
>>97072121This is the stuff I use, works great as a base layer for basing. It sticks once dry, you can smooth it out or leave it craggly, and dries a little soft so it doesn't shatter the second you look at it. Once dry you can easily slice off parts to shape it as needed and it takes paint and primer like a champ. Can also let it partially dry then stick other basing bits into it and it will hold.
>>97072007I usually mix water and filler and apply it with a brush, It's how the terrain tutor taught me.
>>97071651the real pro way to cut foam is with a hot wire>>97072007will this work?https://www.krylon.com/en/products/craft/craft-foam-primer
>>97068486Finished painting the three trolls! Now to make their bases.
>>97072350I'll be sure to cut the foam CORE sandwiched between two pieces of cardboard with a hot wire.
>>97072121Youtubers definitely do and I honestly don't understand the point of buying paste to paint over it. I mean, I do apply washes and drybrushing to enhance final effect and sometimes use them purely for texture effect (like how I couldn't find snow when I was beginning so I used sand and painted it white) but still, when I see yet another video where guy apply brown paste, prime and paint it brown, I honestly doubt his sanity.
>>97072369Uhh they're pretty disgusting but the paintjob is very good!>>97071518Lovely candy red.>>97069891Nice color choices and as the other anon pointed out he really has a cartoon vibe.>>97069835I really dig the jade armor>>97068828These are fantastic, the weapons, cloth and eyes are all great>>97069143Looks really good anon, I really like that you used yellow again. You're the one that did the skelly marine with a yellow cape, right?
I'm starting to want to keep the thing I'm makin' for my SS.
I bought some 25mm balsa wood rectangles from a supermarket because they were dirt cheap, can they be used for basing or is there some catch with the material that I should be aware of?
>>97071932>Admech, Orks, and Thousand Sons.You have incredibly based taste anon. I've considered dipping into both Admech and Tzeentch myself but ultimately landed on catachan using those wargames atlantic spacenam dudes as a proxy. Haven't built any yet though, my ork backlog is massive lol. Had to stay at my parents house for two weeks cuz of big renovations at home and didn't bother bringing any painting stuff, just assembled most of my backlog. Picrel is some of it
>>97072757NTA but>admech and tsons>based tastehell yeah
Has anyone everything brought busts and other resin miniatures from ali express? Saw a couple of them and they are so cheap comparse to European stores. Are they some kind of badly printes toxic stuff, or what?
>>97072859All resins are toxic anon
Any cheap gun/iron metal spray paints like AP or GW? Krylon has a bright aluminum but I'm looking for something darker
>>97072826That looks beautiful anon
>>97072859Resin is a resin. I would be more concerned about print quality/shipment time, especially since a lot of European based stores are awful at that, too. One can only imagine what will some cheap chinks produce.
do you add any mediums for blacklining or just thin a lot with water?
>>97072902It's an absolutely awful picture but thank you!
>>97072948I'm not working on them for a while but I inspected some recasts I got from picrel and they look pretty good, didn't seem brittle and shaved nicely
>>97072867Toxic as half-uncured stuff, no one is eating it .>>97072948Shipping time is definitely going to be awful, but that's to be expected.
Felt bored not making something for a couple days so broke out a scout squad box and some bits waiting for the inevitable 2 hour facetime call with family. Happy turkey day wip
>>97072953Yeah, mineral spirits. Assuming oil or enamel. Or I use the pre thinned tamiya brand if im not home brewing.
>>97073030wew, those helmets work real nice with scouts
>>97073041I supposed I should have said recess shading, I'm using acrylics
>>97073077Oh then water is fine. A flow medium like gws contrast medium will spread it better without pooling.
>>97072461>You're the one that did the skelly marine with a yellow cape, right?Yep.Axe is done btw.
Been painting this guy today, nearly finished.
>>97073398
>>97073406>buttcheeks are covered0/10
>>97073427> he goes outside with his 'cheeks unprotectedngmi
Anon in Manchester, your package was sent out yesterday. ETA 6-10 business days.
Working on some cultists. Hopefully looking Tzeentch flavored.
>>97073806Purple + claws is a more slaaneshi look.
Painted my blood bowl tools. Doing a Yellow>Red>Purple gradient was certainly ambitious.
>>97070770I know this is likely a troll, but if you actually want to check the the ingredients, they are listed on the material safety data sheet
>>97073806>>97073841You are technically correct but1. Anon can't control the sculpts so he has claws2. Purple is an acceptable color provided he draws blue into the models which he has started and he is using gold not silver which will help too
I've got some old metal models(early 2000's). Is it okay to sand down the flash? Those ones no longer have lead in them, right?
>>97074212Wet the file, wear a mask and you're gonna be fine.
>>97074212yeah I'm pretty sure they were 100% pewter in that eraiirc lead minis are also noticeably darker in colour, so you should be able to tell if it's lead or not (fyi I've never worked with lead minis personally, this is just what I've heard/seen online)
>>97072757hell yeah brudder
bought a bottle of screaming skull and it is the single worst pot of paint i've seen, the pigment has fully separated and formed a block at the bottom, after 1 minute of shaking with 2 bbs it is still chunkygoing to just mix it with a coffee stirrer to see if that does it
>first time attempting to paint a magma swordI only kinda hate it!
>>97074459Could use a bit more red on the fringes and some black speckling.
>>97074342>GW whitesYeah they're a bit horrorshow at best. If you can get it to go together try thinning with a bit of white ink instead of water, it will help the coverage without changing the flow too much from normally thinned paint. If you want another brand to try pro acryl bold titanium white is a great white paint but is very white, bright ivory is a lovely color that is pretty close to screaming skull.
C&C welcome>>97074652good shout, I'll pick up a bottle when I get the chance.The screaming skull smoothed out a good bit with some stirring and about 2-4 minutes of shaking, but I'm going to try to only use it as a mix-in for making highlights to avoid it getting chalky.
Dorfs. Still considering paint scheme.
>>97074896
>>97074899
>>9707505341% yourself
>>97075053theres a reason theres no dicksword group for /tg/ painting.no-one wants one, discords are community dead ends.
>>97074896>>97074899>>97074908Needs more teal.
>>97072968got excited for a second thinking you had an alex model lol
>>97074896Very nice creamsicle dorfs. Do you have a tertiary/marking colour for them? I feel like blue would look cool, personally.>>97074652I grabbed Bold Titanium White, Ivory and Bright Ivory to give my buddy for Christmas, and am now kicking myself for not buying dupes for Secret Santa...
>>97074674C&C welcome
>>97075275Your paint looks chalky you should thin it and work with more layers. The pic is rather close too. As for the jacket, I would work a bright highlight in, like what you get with those kinds of plasticy puffy coat
>>97075341There is bright highlights on the red, they're just shadowed in the pic. You can see them a bit better in my earlier pic. Any tips for photos? I used a 50mm lens with a 31mm extension and a lamp for lighting, normally I just use my phone but it can sometimes fudge the finer details and the autofocus is weird (thanks android). A lightbox is coming in the near future.
>>97068777Many people know very little about metals and alloys. They get iron and steel confused, they don't know what brass is made of, they have no idea what tin cans are made if except maybe some vague notion that it probably isn't the element tin. Obviously it doesn't help that the appearance of metals really depend on purity and oxidation.I agree that brass is pretty weird because most people should be familiar with brass instruments and maybe brass buttons, but I guess gold has a monopoly on naming yellow and shiny paint.
>>97075392I don't know photo terms, but you want all of the image to be sharp.
>>97073546Thanks Anon - Santa sent me the tracking info
Since somebody mentioned it - is it expected to send Santa tracking info? I mean, I'm little worried about my match since, according to tracking, it was delivered two days ago, the postman left a notice and it awaits at postal office street away from his address - but he didn't pick it up yet. I checked few times if I truly typed right address I got in email, just in case but it seems correct.
Fear the power of my fully painted Mordheim warband!!!
>>97075767He might've just been working/busy, 2 days isn't much time in the grand scheme of things. I'd start worrying once the weekend passes without the package being picked up.
>>97075814My country postal offices are closed on weekends but okay, I understand.
>>97075810I hope you are still planning to base them, anon!
>>97068831Try Plastruct Plasti-Weld glue. First, it’s ultra high quality, and two, it has a brush not a nozzle. I picked up a bottle a couple of years ago and I’ll never go back to shitty GW/Revell glue.
>>97070770>Grok is sayingCongrats on outsourcing your research to something even stupider than yourself. Good job.Meanwhile a simple search for the MSDS (material safety data sheet) lists the actual ingredients, pic related.https://www.hobbyco.net/content/files/msds/87182%20msds%20extra%20thin%20cement.pdf
>>97073398I didn’t know Colgate started making white model paint.
>>97076193here are the msds for the airbrush cleaner and the regular thin cement (the other one posted was for the quick-set version)https://www.hobbyco.net/content/files/msds/87038%20msds%20cement.pdfhttps://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/downloads/300087089/300087089_SDB_TAMIYA_Airbrush_Cleaner_250ml_02-2017.pdf
Another weekend, time to finish sculpting these guys' missing parts and make 2 more dudes to fill out the unit.
>>97076275I have no idea why one of the links I grabbed is in german, but here's the ingredients for the airbrush cleaner (51/49 acetone/butyl acetate)
>>97075810They are cute
Here is my first mini. Love him.Great many lessons were learned.I currently have the paint starter set from citadel (5 skaven bundle) and the little knight bundle from army painter.TL:DR;is that I don't like how pastel the army painter colors look if that makes any sense. I would like something high saturation.They are nice to work with, but the red for example is pink, the yellow is idk, low saturation, they feel pastel~ish which is lame to me.I'm going to order skaventide on a good discount and would like to get some tools and paints with it so please advise.I'll have to get a spray primer too because the brush on was a chore. (Any suggestions? Black/White/Grey maybe 2? Any brands?)The two options I'm considering is AK Interactive - Wargame paint it all box 36 colors 3gen - AK11782 or Pro Acryl Base Set 2.0 (24x22mL).These are in stock, also vallejo has bundles, but I hear they bubble and I don't want obstacles since I already struggle as a newbie.Which of these would you recommend if any?I have to say I quite enjoyed the citadel colors as they felt like purpose made for the model, which clearly they are. The pots are horrible, I got tendonitis+polyneuropathy so handling them is a major pain.Please advise.Good thing I found this how to paint with tremors thing in the OP. Should help a lot next time.I plan to paint the stormcasts as halloweds with indigo blue or red. The skavens will be a mix and match of whatever I feel like. I love them so much they are all going to be snowflakes if I can't decide a scheme.I like greens and want most of them to have a smoother grey skin.
Well, if all goes well, my match got their gift, good to know, good luck to all other secret santa participants
>>97076425Maybe it's me? I picked it up earlier today and I'm way too impatient to wait till Christmas so thank you so much, Lithuanian anon! The dragon looks cool as hell so it definitely works and I really appreciate the painted mini and hand drawn card. I don't know where the pyramid head dude is from though, I apologize. I've never been to Lithuania before so I don't recognize any of these snacks and sweets. They might be pretty similar to some stuff we have here though, it's not that far away after all lol. Ate the bar thing already and it was really nice. I might build a couple dudes from the sprues instead of using everything for kitbashes, they're pretty different from what I usually paint. Much love and Merry(early) Christmas!
Time to finish this boy today
>>97076347Nice effort for your first boy, pretty neat. Looks like he could use some highlights maybe.The saturation is usually a trade off. They add white pigment to the paint to make it more opaque, but that desaturates it. High saturation paints often lack coverage, but you can just do more layers. As for paint suggestions, Stahly is a guy who made a big paint comparison document with examples so you can see them all side by side in the same lighting, really helps with picking paints.Citadel is fine, it's just twice as expensive and comes in shitty pots. I avoid them unless they carry a specific color I need that no one else has.
>>97076347Eyy, you finished it! Good work!As for the paints, as you are just starting, I think it’s perfectly fine to play around with different paint brands and see what speaks to you. A lot of people here will recommend AK 3rd gen and I personally love them as well. So if you are dead set on getting a bigger set of them, grab AK and maybe drop in a bottle of Bold Titanium White from PA, since it’s greaf and you will have an opportunity to try another paint brands, yes-yes.
So I'm painting a mini for my SS but I picked something that he can use for his army. Should I do the base or leave it so he can match it with the rest of his dudes?
>>97071932And space marines, 4 factions.
>>97076905Maybe it's just me but I never liked loyalist marines, firstborn or primaris. They just look so boring to me. Chaos is fine though.
>>97076904If it was for me I'd say so, cuz if I had a bunch of rank and file in blues and grays and their leader is in lavish green and yellow armor, it would stick out.Hm, then again, it sticking out would look cool and be a good discussion piece. "Look at my leader model, I got it as a gift and look how cool it is! I love this lil' guy."
>>97077046Sorry autocorrect*I'd say noMulling it over, I think a fully painted model would be a nicer gift
>>97076553Thanks, good points. Unfortunately I'm very obsessive and indecisive so I really don't want to go further down the rabbit hole than "pick this it's the best".I'm well aware that there is no objective best and I usually get stuck in decision loops for subjective stuff and then burn out.The highlights would be nice, I made an attempt on it actually, it's just not very visible on the pictures, but failed (top of the tail) because I ruined my first brush.There is a line on the edge of his shank too, which ended up with a lot of pooled strong tone shade on it. Lesson learned, flat surfaces need more care with shades.I decided the keep him as is since I count him as a huge win.>>97076676Great, thank you. I was more leaning towards the AK one too because it had more colors for the same price and some freebies like the rubber mat and some brushes.(I already ordered a ton of disposable brushes for now, my second brush managed to survive for now since I learned some lessons already. But I know I'll go through quite a few more.)Since you actually use them, do you recommend any specifics to aid the base set?As far as I can tell it has no proper metalics, it's also lacking in glazes (which I assume I can make from them with some sort of extra product/thinner).Also any suggestions for can primers? Probably should do grey for easier visibility?
>>97077046>>97077064It's a marine character that is painted in a specific scheme no matter the chapter so it actually works nicely. I'm just not sure about the basing.
>>97068486Anyone got a good recommendation for a bone-colored paint? Ever pot of GW bone paint (bleached, Ushabti, Morghast) I've bought comes out chalky or weird. Hopefully it's not just a skill issue on my part.
>>97077213My bad, misread. Yeah no paint away dude.
>>97077246It's not, Citadels creams, whites, yellows etc are absolute garbage. I've been using Duncan's triad for a while and it goes on nice and smooth. I'd trust AK as well.
Finally finished my converted DG rhino
>>97077258Awesome, my store stocks Duncan's paints, so I'll check those out.
>>97075392Yeah, it's too close.As for the jacket highlights, I don't think you get what I mean. I'm not talking about highlights like the previous photo, I would avoid that desu. I meant more like the plastic shine you get with some of these jackets, where it's a bright reflection on a bed of flat, solid color.You could do it on a solid with some very thin shades, and finish off with a gloss(maybe satin) varnish
>>97075810Nice
>>97077122>Probably should do grey for easier visibility?If you want to maximize vibrancy of colors, white.
>>97068486
>>97077423ok
>somehow my airbrush is defective>pisses paint over the modelfmlordered already a new one but fuck me
>>97076347Ak and Vallejo make some well saturated colors, but desu from what you're saying with the red and yellow I almost wonder if you're noticing an undercoat issue.Transparent colors like flesh tones, white, red, yellow, and orange to a degree rely on the undercoat for visibility. Sometimes it takes a few coats of undercoat too
>>97076347don't buy paint sets. the discount (if any) rarely makes up for having to buy colours you might not use or the brand is weak at. for spray primer the best ones are generic auto plastic primers that are half the price of branded hobby cans. light grey is usually the right choice.
>>97077122Black is pretty easy to do metals right after, and the shadow thing with it is nice. If you want visibility aid or zenithal stuff and don't worry about price, a second can of White for dusting helps.I've found citadel to be the same as ak, Vallejo, and army painter spray cans desu.For undercoating white on black primer, I go grey or red-brown to egg white/khaki to white
>>97077122Well, I think it depends what you plan to paint! The base set gets you covered more or less, and you can always mix paints to get highlights/shadows. If you plan to paint all your rats in red, some red paints might come in handy?
>>97077122if you're only going to get one primer it should be gray since it's the most neutral. don't listen to people trying to sabotage you with black.
>>97077543I would say gray and brown are two most useful primers.
>>97077433are you sure the needle is pushed all the way into the nozzle?
>>97077447Maybe. The undercoat was grey. Though they already look desaturated, like mixed with a bit of white on the palette.>>97077476I might try the 2 can approach, but so far I don't see the benefit much if I'm going to paint over all the "highlights" either way.I'm leaning towards grey/white because it makes details more visible than black I assume.>>97077462The price isn't horrible for what they give you. I'm worried about pre-selecting paints and only getting what I "know" I need since I don't actually know what I need.I got a general idea of needing greys greens and reds, but not the exact colors and combinations.Army painter was attractive to me mostly because of their color system thing.Some anons recommended me the Citadel Colors app and it lists a bunch of paints used for X result.If I were to go pick up "singles" like that it would likely end up being citadel as I'm too indecisive otherwise, but I hate the pots and don't wanna get metal balls separately either.Sure I could try to pick out matching colors from the AK range for example, but I like having a nice range of colors by default.>>97077543>>97077561It is decided then, I'm getting grey. I can just paint their butts under their tunics black myself for shadows.
I got the insane idea of giving my aspiring champion a white gun
Not a beefy girl, but I think this friend is done. Anything stand to anyone as something I can improve or should try to focus on next time?
>>97077577>It is decided then, I'm getting grey.Think about brown, as well. While I think grey is universal, I generally pretty much only prime in brown at this point. It's awesome for a lot of things, from dirty/rusty/old vehicles to building skin tones.
>>97076504Yup that's you. And for the pyramid dude, it's a trench crusade piligrim kitbash, I fully admit it was most christmasy model I had, since it's a little christian making piligrimage to the birth country of one of the popes.And happy you enjoy the sprue, ya, it's mostly wargame atlantic and victrix minis, they do make some good stuff.
>>97077577someone link the stahly pdf. it's not perfect but it's the easiest way to make colour comparisons between brands.
>>97077622Here you go files . catbox . moe/kdgwgz.pdf>that faggot charges like $40 for this shitWhat the actual fuck? He probably got all the paints with sponsorship deals so all he had to do was buy some plastic sheets and paint over them. I mean yeah it definitely took some time but it's still way too fucking expensive
>>97077677The original was a lot less, I think I've paid like twenty something for it. But I might be misremembering shit. t. anon who posted it itt
>>97077677Interesting to see how some colors citadels don't have a real competitor like "GW Kantor Blue".
>>97077763Every brand/line has colors like that, anon.
>>97077433This is why you always have a test model nearby. Check your spray on the test model instead of just a piece of paper or cardboard, see how it lands on a model before going forward. Easy way to make sure it sprays well but also you have the right opacity. Test washes and such on the test model as well, leave a little dallop of wash on the base when done with your other models. Once the drop of wash on the test model is dry you know your other models are as well.
These will be winter bases so I will apply some snow paste but before that happens - would you add something here? Phone won't show that clearly but I drybrushed dark-brown mud ground with german field grey aka slightly greenish grey as it's supposed to be located in snowy mountain region (actually for fantasy Japanese guys but I accepted that I won't be able to properly translate their Japanism to mini base with my low skills).
I fell for a dropship scam and feel bad about it... At least I've learned to do my research before making stupid decisions
>>97077901>dropship scama what now
Who up early in the morning priming they sht
>>97077912Scammers who pretend they're wholesalers but they just order from aliexpress and put your address on the parcel while taking a cut.
>>97077917Hell yeah anon, prime it good
>>97077292Gross, I love it.
>>97077917why tempestus heads for them?
>>97077926It's not really a *scam* it's just a shitty middleman business model that people should (and do) feel bad for supporting.
Now I think I shouldn't apply snow on the stone road as well but whatever.
>>97077577Yeah grey undercoat is probably your problem desu Also the two can thing is partly for zenithal highlighting if you're painting in that style, but mostly it was to aid in your concern to be able to "see" the mini
>>97077585I'm not sure about using grey as such a major color in your scheme tbdesu, it kinda looks like unpainted plastic
Is acetone or nail polish remover better than CA debonders? I tried using a glue debonder and that shit melts your plastic in seconds
>>97078635Put it in a plastic bag and throw it in the freezer overnight
>>97078654your mini I mean
>>97078654But I'm trying to get rid of excess glue that spilled over some detail. I can't really sand it
>>97078674Oh shit sorry nevermind then. Got no clue how to fix that
>>97078674have you tried isopropyl?
>>97078696Sort of. I have stripped the model, but I haven't given it a second bath just for the glue. Does it work?
>>97078897>>97077423
>>97077677It's a lot of hours of work for what I guess is a pretty modest number of sales. The guy is meticulous, nothing I've seen from him looks rushed. I also like his sprue photos of new releases, since GW have shit quality now and sometimes don't even have a picture of the sprue at all.There are fans of sloptubers donating 40 in chat, compared to that I feel Stahly deserves it
>>97078705Isopropyl does little to CA in my experience. Acetone attacks it, but also melts plastic minis.The freezer thing makes CA very brittle, if you're lucky you might be able to snap it off or scrape it more efficiently.
>>97078635Acetone's great at dissolving CA glue and polystyrene plastic alike. I make my sprue goo with bits of sprue and plain acetone.Nail polish remover on the other hand... usually contains a lot of acetone, or used to at least.
>>97078426That's good input, thanks. It does read as a bit monochrome. The image doesn't show it well, but there's some variation with purples to blues that makes it feel a bit more like metal, but certain parts like the headdress plate at the front feel like they don't stand out enough. I think I'll go over that with a bit of gold, that might also balance nicely with the orange in the beard. Thanks for the input anon!
>>97079183Hit the shield rim/trim while you're at it.
>>97079212>>97079183>>97078426>>97077585I'm not comfortable with nmm but I think I'll try it next time I try to do something with this much metal. I do think that adding the gold is an improvement colour-wise, but it's not quite there yet. Ive learnt a lot from the piece, though. Better every time!
>>97077292Woah, sick
What're some good greens to paint lively foliage? Caliban green always feels too dark.
any good last minute black friday sales to get?
Anyone have recs for a good black paint for basecoating? The ones I've tried so far have all turned up extremely glossy, which is irritating if I want to layer matte greys on top.Is Proacryl's black good? I'm going to be picking up their white soon anyways. >>97080058Warpstone glow+moot green could work for more cartoony-style foliage, and you can always darken the final result down by mixing/glazing/washing/etc
>>97080309Black is color matched to the primer with the same finish.
I'm watching more of these garage kit videos and it looks like they all do skin by painting a mix of clear red/pink and clear orange/brown over white. is this only possible with an airbrush?
>>97068486>>97068493TP from Louisiana, I wanted to let you know I received your package and will share later. Is this an Advent Calendar?
I hadn't been checking my mail online in a while, so this came as quite a shock today! And what a great selection it is! I greatly appreciate the effort that you put into the snack selection here — I love Buldak hot sauce, loose green tea, and spicy curry, and I'm eager to try the rest! And as for models, we've got a great selection: some Frostgrave Cultists, WGA conquistadors and Renaissance cavalry, Bestigors, and a Great Bray Shaman! Thanks a whole bunch, and happy holidays!
>>97080874
How does the Golden Maple Kolinksy fare against the big names like Winsor Newton, Davinci and Raphael?
>Turns out LGS didn't even place the order on the model I asked for like 5 timesI'm sorry Arizona Anon
>>97079070Finally someone who gets it, agreed anon.
I will admit I am running out of space for seperate boxes and thought of removing the sprues and keep them in ome bigger container. Anyone who does it? How do you label them to tell the sets apart?
>>97077292Awesome
>>97081350Stick them in plastic bags and label everything. Ziploc makes some pretty big ones, I think gallon sized.
>>97081350Use rubber bands and a post-it note
Will this DYI shitbox protect my computer from airborne particles?
>>97081607Are you spraying graphite?
>>97081625No, just paints... And inks
>>97080058Straken green
Highlight over or under oil washes? That is the question
Left is cyan, but right is also cyan according to AK interactive. Can any color theorists explain?
>>97081607jam a PC fan on the side of it to pull air in, maybe glue some paper towel on top of it to catch the paint.
>>97081710Their marketing shots are useless, use the stahly comparison leak.
Testing out some paint schemes for some Firefight armies. Sadly, I won't have time to finish them this weekend :(
>>97079070It's just another case of the usual 4chong mentality that you should do EVERYTHING for free and never charge shit no matter how much time you've spent on it, but ALSO do it often, ideally full-time, to provide value and education for spergs that believe this nonsense. The swatch is literally the only good color/paint comparison tool out there. Stahly might be a bit faggy, but I can't imagine going back to garbage ass web tools.
>>97079757From the photos I think adding more contrast to the shading/highlights of both the bits you left the sorta-kinda grey and the bits you just gilded would help.
>>97081710https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shades_of_cyanIt's been a while since I dabbled on this topic but the short of it is web cyan (left) is different from pigment/process cyan (right) and you can't really compare a spectral color with pigments.
>>97081839Yep, the entitlement runs deep with some.
>>97078153>I think I shouldn't apply snow on the stone road as wellJust add some satin-gloss varnish as water from melted snow that doesn't have as many places to go as on dirt.
dumb questionI somehow rubbed the primer partially off of one model while holding itshould I try to remove all of it before spraying new primer on it or just spray it again
>>97082088If you've glopped it on so thick that the touchup will result in it being too thick in places then stripping is ideal, but normally an extra partial coat on the parts that'll catch overspray when you re-prrime that bit shouldn't be an issue.
>>97081792damn, the aliens on the right look more like proper nids than some GW scultps, they better watch out for the lawyers baleful eyes.
>>97074896>>97074899>>97074908it's great, I love the high-visibility Lego Arctic looks for Space DwoovesI feel like >>97075192 might have a good point, though you don't want too much teal.I feel like the color balance is already pretty strong, maybe just a stripe inside the white of the shoulder or along the armored hood to the backpack.
The banner (pennant?) is pretty much done.
>>97082290Looks great, I particularly like the flames. Nice job, anon.
>>97082335Thanks anon. I waffled on the design quite a lot, really glad the one I chose in the end turned out as well as it did.
>>97082057Good call. Some wet puddle here and there.In the meantime, that's how Japanese dudes looks with their bases on.
>>97082352>those abs on the archer
>>97081607It wil generate a shitton of dust, some of it rather sticky
>>97081853I hit it with a bit more shading and highlighting to break up the plates, and I do think it helped. Submitted for a store comp and was super impressed with some of the other entries! Really cool to see what different folks do with the same piece.>>97082057
>>97081698Both work, try both on some test models and see which work flow you prefer.
>>97081698I usually do them before so I can see where to put highlights better. Both are fine though, its honestly a matter of preference like anon said.
How big is the difference between paint manufacturers really? I know we all have our favorites, but if I just want to buy a dark red acrylic paint, does it really matter if I go with pro acryl, Vallejo, citadel, AK, tamiya, scale 75, two thin coats or whatever other manufacturer in a similar price range? Sure, maybe the pots or the price will be a bit different, but why would an acrylic red from company a work much different than company b. Seriously wondering here.
>>97082505Any of those you mentioned are fine, we've kind of reached a plateau with hobby paints where basically all of them are good enough. The differences are mostly in opacity or lack of it (which gains you more saturation if they have not cheaped out on pigments). Some have a matt finish, some are more satin.And then there are some differences in the binders/mediums used and of course thickness of the paint. Pro Acryl is more thin straight out of the bottle for example than AP Fanatic or GW's Base paints. Some minor differences between how the paints "feel" on the brush etc. but it's pretty minor differences.
>>97082505Beyond the exact shade they can differ in consistency/flow, drying time, if they tend to suck up moisture from a wet palette, tendency to have bubbles, coverage, what they dilute well with, and how clear the colour stays when you start mixing. Probably etc.But all said and done, just about any of the current miniature paints (well, except for whatever bargain basement ripoffs there may be lurking out in the margins) are entirely fine, and the differences are indeed relatively minor. Being overly concerned with this brand vs that seems to me to be, apart from just plain old console war nonsense, to be mostly a beginner thing.
>>97082524NTA but I cannot agree. New formula of Vallejo paints is noticeably different and, in my opinion, worse than AK (separation, behave like contrast paints when thinned, varies in behaviour wildly between colours, etc), which are more "uniform" in how they behave.
>>97082505scale 75 are gel based so do feel different and mixing them with other brands can be a little annoying. nothing gamebreaking though. getting the right shade is most important, followed by not paying loads for a single colour I might not use loads of (pro acryl).
>>97082524I would also politely disagree with this. Color-wise, most ranges are good, although AP tends to be more desaturated, less vivid in general. The main issue is consistency; how the paint behaves in general, how it works with airbrush, how much you need to thin them and how (in)consistent are these (and many more) conditions across the range. With that in mind, I wouldn't really recommend AP to anyone, especially since AK costs about the same and is very much superior in this consistency. And there are no hidden fuckeries like with AP either. For me, AK is the best. It just werks, the range is massive, and they have correct historical paints, too. Followed by TTC (a bit too pricey, though) and PA (the paint is quite nice, but the bottles/caps are ridiculously retarded).
>>97082589Speaking of AK, I noticed how well they work for airbrush. I could thin them with just water without issues while Vallejo required their dedicated thinner and/or flow improver or they would dry rapidly on the tip (in few cases - they even somehow dried inside, on the needle and I'm sure it was not a problem with faulty seal as other paints, both AK and Vallejo, didn't behave like that. Both also worked like contrast paints do when applied with brush, with pigment flowing to recess so maybe that's why).
>>97082088if the primer is rubbing off just from touching it that means the adhesion is fucked and any paint you put on top of it is at risk of flaking off too. you should completely strip the part and redo it. don't forget to wash your part this time.
>>97082589>For me, AK is the best>Followed by TTCSeconding that, I have yet to run into a dud from these 2 manufacturers. I haven't tried PA so far, though.>Vallejo required their dedicated thinner and/or flow improver or they would dry rapidly on the tipSome of the new formulation GC paints were drying and clogging my airbrush even when thinned with Vallejos own thinner+flow improver while I have no problems with AK, TTC and (most of)Citadel. I know some people here like nu-Vallejo but from my experiences I wouldn't recommend it at all, at least the GC range. Maybe Model Colors is better, I don't know. At this point I have no intention of trying.
>>97082701Nu-Vallejo is definitely worse than old formula
>>97082701>Maybe Model Colors is betterI have some Model Colors from them and they are not bad. But again, kinda redundant with AK.
>>97082701I still have and use rather large range of old Vallejo model color paints and honestly, new ones are just as bad as "new" GC. Probably same formula. I saw YT guys like Angel constant prising them but my experience says otherwise. Some are still okay for brush but I don't really want to play lottery.
Antone have a good recipe for Hispanic skin?I’m about to paint a friend’s Amazon blood bowl team.
So is AK just the best in the game when it comes to acrylics right now? Seems like they are the go-to for paints, texture pastes and epoxy water
>>97082758>I saw YT guys like Angel constant prising themI mean they're paid to shill, you can't expect anything they say to be their honest opinions nowadays
>>97081193Just buy Rosemary.
>>97082801Eh. They're fine, if they have the right hue you want and you have them readily available then fell free to use that. But if you think you have to stick to their colour selection or order from somewhere you otherwise wouldn't have just to get the AK label on the bottle because some obsessive-compulsive hobby shill on 4chan said so then you probably shouldn't be allowed to make any decisions on your own more important than which side to eat the egg from. And if you think their paints will suddenly make you a much better painter...
>>97082923>anon asks normal question>sperg goes on retarded tiradeAre the hobby shills and consoomer redditors in the room with us, anon?
>>97083038NEAT!
>>97082801No. They're a decent enough default if they're cheap and easily available where you live, but they don't have the best metallics or washes and the colour selection is far from complete. I think they're the 5th most common brand in my collection and unlikely to rise any time soon.
>>97081710The first is pure cyan, the second is an obvious blue that only very slightly leans towards green that might in some technical way be called cyan.. but it simply isn't.
>>97082524>>97082589>>97082701Proacryl is a little weird at first until you get used to thinning it. The gel consistency looks like its too thick but once you put it on the model it dries a lot thinner, so people tend to overthin it until its a glaze. I put a drop onto the wet palette then pull a little from the drop and spread/work it on the parchment paper. It will pick up some moisture from the sponge and thin enough to be a layer consistency without me having to add water. When airbrushing you want to thin it as little as possible, just enough to get it to go through the airbrush. And you need to actually stir it in the cup, blowback mixing isn't enough at first to properly get it mixed with the thinner, but once they're incorporated they can be blowback mixed. Using vince's mix of 80:20 thinner to flow improver helps a lot with airbrushing, usually 3:1 paint to thinner mix is enough.
>>97082801Best is a subjective term but AK has:>good consistency between the colors in the range>large color selection>mixes well>brush and airbrush wellIts a solid paint range to buy, but that doesn't mean they're the be all end all.
>>97083348>>large color selectionI'm pretty sure it's the largest.
>>97076285TRUESCALE OGRES?! They look really cool, anon.
>>97082505I think so yeah. GW's reds like khorne red and mephiston red are generally considered good, whereas AP's reds are weird with various levels of white to desaturate them or they have pinkish hues. Some paints are thick and creamy, some are thin like pro acryl's. If you want to find out more about paints try some artist paint brands likeW&N, Schmincke, Golden. I think they're more technical about pigments and use academic names of colors
As good as the Green Knight is, the foot damsel's always been my favourite from the 5th ed Bretonnia range. Here mostly just blocked in using roughly the same paint scheme as I painted one in for a friend back in the day.And then, since doing those eyes required me to be in pretty good shape, I've also gotten somewhat started on a pair of sisters form the Martial Order Scholarly of Our Blessed Lady of The Irate Reprimand. Armour on both still needs highlights.
>>97083348Also a very matt finish (which is a plus for some and minus for others). In terms of availability my understanding as a Eurio is that they're not so easy to find in all of North America and reversely Pro Acryl is hard to find in most European countries.
>>97083038I concur with >>97083120
>>97076285Primogoris
>>97083038I also agree with >>97083870, who of course concurred with>>97083120
>>97078153This trend of "snow" on bases is one of the ugliest ways to immediately make your micro dioramas look like a shitty kindergarten craft. There is no product or technique on earth that can fake the appearance of snow for more than a passing glance. Your bases look like globs of bird shit, and an unpainted black base under your models would be an improvement
>>97084030;_;
Getting back into painting more or less regularly (or so I told myself), and tried my hand at a random Fabelzel Chorf I had lying around. Flag was a bit of a pain in the ass, but the chorf itself was a very satisfying painting process! Also first attempt at NMM. If you have any advice on what I could improve, feel free to let me know.
>>97084142I like him! The nmm isn't too bad, I would add some more transition layers, same with the skin
Here's the finished squealer thief! I still hate jungle bases, but I really liked this mini, he's fun.Thanks to the anon in either here or /awg/ that plugged RBJ game company, the minis are pretty good actually
One with brighter lighting
>>97084288Really nice thief, but I especially like the skull snake kek
Tragedy has struck. While sanding things, half the thing I'm making for my Santee fell off the table and broke. I still have time to fix it I think but what a pain.
>>97084524what is a santee
>>97084545One who is Santa'd
>>97084548makes sense and thank you t. esl
>>97084370Thanks!
Been working on this techmarine that I'll be gifting for SS. I'm not super big on loyalist marines but this guy is oddly satisfying to paint for some reason.
I am making good progress on my Lamenters, but the amount of details on these minis is exhausting.
>>97084814im out of words
>>97084716Loyalty truly is its own reward.
Good evening, /wip/. I am in dire need of your best recommendation or recommendations of paint stripping fluids. I have been buying pre-painted lots of minis off of Ebay for a while now to strip and repaint, but my stripper of choice is apparently no longer manufactured. I have 60ish Space Marines, six bikes and some Dreads to strip, prime and repaint so anything reasonably cheap, that is not a hazard to store on a farm and that can be purchased in a large jug would be awesome. Thanks again and hope everyone has a great Christmas!
>>97085207If it's all acrylics, just get 95%+ IPA, anon. You can usually get it straight from chemical plants in huge ass bottles (5L+) for pretty cheap. Pour it into some container that you can seal, drop the minis in, and let them soak for like an hour or so. Then just brush the paint away. Better yet, you can also pour it into ultrasonic cleaner, drop the minis in, and let it do the annoying part for you.
Nearly done with the first Raptor termite.
>>97085207LA's Totally Awesome comes in bottles like this or gallon jugs, citrus based degreaser that strips paint and breaks down super glue but won't damage plastic. Let them soak in a glass jar for a day or so then go at ithem lightly with a toothbrush, let them soak again for a couple hours and any remaining paint will slough right off. This 2 bottle pack is coming up as $12, you can reuse it by straining it through a coffee filter so its a good investment. For disposal you filter out all of the solid materials well then you just dilute it 20:1 with water and flush it. Be sure to wear rubber gloves, like dishwashing gloves, since the concentrate will give you a mild chemical burn with prolonged exposure and make your skin peel and itch for a few days.
>>97084288>>9708414250UVL>>97084716>>97084814These guys are shaping up nicely, be sure to post more wips and finished pics. >>97085276Looking great, the shading on the green armor is looking especially lovely. The weathering on the decals and armor is also on point. If I have any criticism it would be that maybe a different color for the leather pouches, since there is a lot of black with the undersuit and weapons. Maybe a warm brown like a van dyke brown.
>>97085294If you have a Dollar Tree store near you they should stock those at $1.25 a bottle.
>>97084030Wrong. The secret to snow is layers of color (darker usually) and fluffiness. Also, leave areas without snow and sparingly make use of ice, icicles and frost. Just plopping a gloop of white stuff on a base isn't good enough.
posted this pic like a week ago (I'm starting painting models and I used black prime, worried about colours being too dark)your replies were really helpful, thanks anonsI got a couple more questions if you don't mindI black-primed a whole squadron, should I de-paint them (since you helped me realize black is not the best prime colour for my models) or just go along with it and try using brighter capes? I mean, is it a waste of time or is it something I also should learn to do?Should I paint every basic layer (white, gold, brown, whatever) before doing those brightening layers?and last one, I'm trying to grab paint with the tip of my brush, but it somehow ends completely filled with paint (I added plenty of water to my wet pallet) and it's really hard to get rid of all the paint after stroking it in my water cupwhat am I doing wrong? even after several cleaning attempts it keeps leaving colour traces in my napkins. I'm using citadel macragge blue if that's relevant
>>97085276damn, son! Beautiful stuff! You've got your volumes down.
>>97085207Chungus khan, that rapist fuck, glad he's gone.. I'm so jealous.>>97085276Very nice volumetrics, shift to yellow highlight is nice too. I think there might be too much green and not enough secondary color on the model though. It's a little monochromatic.
>>97084030>There is no product or technique on earth that can fake the appearance of snow for more than a passing glance.It's not even that hard.
>>97085533Their pants/boots should have flecks of snow on them too.
>>97085533Your pic proves my point. That looks nothing like snow or slush. It looks like foamy soap at best, and unless most of your games are going to be played on a white table, it's a shitty choice for basing.
>>97085605What is a "fleck of snow"?
>>97081195No worriesLast year I had a ton of difficulty tracking down the Mephiston I sent out and I think i received my package on Christmas eve. There's still plenty of time!
>>97085389Maybe. Can you share an example of a table top miniature with a "snow" base that actually looks like snow and not like bird shit or baking soda? Do you play games on white tables often enough that it's worth basing that way?
>>97085472if you are worried about painting over black but don't want to redo the primer you can just paint gray over the black.
>>97085668>It looks like foamy soap at bestSnow often does look like that.>unless most of your games are going to be played on a white tableThat's a separate issue.
I'm seeing double here! Four broadsides!
Finding the answer online is surprisingly hard, but do I get the classic Clan Pestilens color scheme done? What paints should I for the cloak?
>>97085255>>97085294Thank you, Anons! I'll try LA, I remember that being a thing years back and it has to have some merit if it still gets suggested. Bad goes to worse I break out the IPA.
>>97085799Which still just looks like bird shit on every miniature base it's glopped on.
>>97082505gonna go on a limb and say PA, AK, and TTC are probably the only paints you should spend money on if they're all at the same price for you. The only reason I have some AP stuff is cause there's a place that sells them for way cheaper than normal but they have saturation issues that I don't want to bother compensating for anymore since I picked up the others. Vallejo Model Color, new or old, airbubbles like fuck and dries really fast on my brush even off a wet palette. Their model air metallics are really nice though and I haven't cracked my metal color which people say is the be all end all line. Haven't tried any other brands.
>>97085276looks awesome
>>97082290Finished the LoTD jump pack ancient.
Some wip, think I'm done with the fish guy. Trying to think of some tunic/pants color for the Valkyrie
And the flip side
>>97086414I like how it has paper objects trailing right where the jet exhaust would go
>>97086506It's technology, I don't have to explain shit!
>>97086506LoTD are spooky specter marines, your argument is invalid.
>>97084288>>97084283I thought this was a treasure chest headed robed guy strangling a goblin.Really had to do a double take.
>>97084814Same model from the back. I tried playing with the light source, but I definitely need more practice .
idk what I'm doing. I think I messed up pretty bad with some of the fluorescent orange.I think I give up. I hate painting the fire on this.
happier with this one
>>97086519Lolwut?That would be a nasty monster, one that gets you halfway home
>>97086558I always found orange kind of hindered osl, desu. I would do some pin washes of white then yellow, and some yellow mixed into the outer base color for the edges.I think it's coming along well, just remember that osl stuff looks like ass until you're done, then it looks great
>>97086545Practice makes perfect! It's coming along crustily fine I think>>97086573Gross. That's a really good bell too, nice verdigris
>>97086582At this point I just want to move onto different models. it's taking way too long to do...>>97086587Thanks! i made a guy for tge inside too>everyone else ITTlove ur stuff <3. tried to reply but it thinks its spam
>>97086611Glazes take a bit to dry, maybe work on other minis in the meantime?
>>97086440Heh
>>97086638Is that dark souls stuff?
>>97086668no it's just a bunch of random 3d printed stuff. idk what its really for because I don't play games with anyone. I just like making stuff.
>>97086680forgot picture. theoretically they're for trench crusade as proxies.
>>97085472If the black prime isn't really causing any problems then just work through it for the moment instead of re-priming them. You need to get used to multiple layers to reach good opacity anyway. Otherwise strip them and re-prime in a neutral or bright colour. It is generally a good idea to do all the base colours first before you move onto shading and layering/highlighting. Not only will it let to see how everything looks in a general sense before you get stuck into the rest of it, but it also means mistakes are easier to fix up too. Once all the base colours are on then decide if you are going to do washes or just move onto layering and highlighting. For the paint water you will pretty much always have some amount of colour still in the water. What you are looking to do is make sure that the pigment paint is out of the brush, which is achieved with the some simple swishing. Your paint water is going to tint the more paint you wash off in it. If this becomes a problem then change the water once if gets too saturated etc. Once it comes time to put the brushes down for the session just give them a good swish, then drag them on the paper towel to get the excess water out. Then they are fine to lay down and let them dry. You generally shouldn't see any real paint build up and whatever little pigment might be left over from the water should be small enough to just flake off once dry or be too small to even see. If you have a big build up in your brush that isn't going out it means you are leaving the paint in the brush too long between applications and it is drying out in the brush. Brushes will get build up and deteriorate over time, it is an inevitability and why it is a good idea to start with cheap brushes until you are used to this sort of painting. There are brush soaps you can get to help with longevity for if/when you do get nicer brushes. Even once frayed or whatever they can still use the brushes for things like stippling or texture paste.
>>97085472>I black-primed a whole squadronNo if you've primed them black just leave them. You aren't doing anything wrong, you just have to use more layers to cover over black. Priming black and painting over it darkens the model, but unless you're an experienced painter and know what you're going for then I advice to just prime gray, white, brown, green, burgundy whatever. If you're painting blue space marines, then you can even prime blueIf you have a white spray can you can spray over your black minis at a zenithal angle with white so you get contrast between shadows and light, making it easier for you to paint. >Should I paint every basic layer (white, gold, brown, whatever) before doing those brightening layers?Yes, just basecoat, apply a shade and then do layers and highlights. >and last one, I'm trying to grab paint with the tip of my brush, but it somehow ends completely filled with paintMaybe you're using too much water and your overloading your brush? You don't need to load more than 2/3rds of your brush and avoid getting paint in the ferrule. You have to post pictures or somethning
Gaaah I hate painting cultists. Next batch painting job. Demons are for pallet cleansing in between.
>>97085389But I left areas free of snow, tried to make patches instead of single layer.
new>>97087108>>97087108>>97087108
Working on picrel. Had to take some liberties with the angelfish pattern, everything didn't go according to my plans lol. >>97086558>>97086582This dude's advice is spot on. It doesn't look bad at all, it's almost there, you just gotta do the last 5%>>97085867I love the amount of missiles lol, also nice yellow>>97086414>>97084716 >>97085276All of these dudes are very sweet, well done anons
>>97085207If you are a Britfag I highly recommend BioStrip 20. Can do plastic, metal and resin (although the last requires so care).
>>97086440I like his fit, the head seems awfully large.
>>97068670>falx barbariansI just want to point out this is ahistorical and borne of pop history memesTwo handed Falces were a farming tool, not a dedicated combat weapon for elite troopshttps://www.romanarmytalk.com/rat/showthread.php?tid=17652
Just glued together (most) of my french infantry. moving on to priming.
>>97087525>Two handed Falces were a farming tool, not a dedicated combat weapon for elite troopsnta, and did no research, but arent a lot of historical weapons repurposed farming tools? Like a good deal of billmen had repurposed farming bills.
>>97087772NTA, but I guess they're too well armored to be using improv weapons.
>>97076285These look so good, dude. >>97077246>>97082505I really like Reaper's MSP line (Skeleton Bone for off-white, specifically). I've had the droppers for almost 3 years, and they all still paint great. >>97085906It works great, but you do absolutely need to soak, scrub, soak, and then scrub again. It plays nice with resins, too.
Finished priming, stared painting.
