It's been almost a year since the last climbing thread on /out/ died. The thread on /xs/ is overwhelmingly focused on gym climbing, so I'm making this attempt to revive the general. Help out by sharing trip reports, photos, advice, etc.A place to talk about outdoor climbing in any aspect (trad, sport, bouldering, aid, alpine, etc).Rock Climbing is a dangerous sport that can cause loss of life, limb, eyesight, or sanity.Off-belay:https://archived.moe/out/thread/2610900https://archived.moe/out/thread/2537031https://archived.moe/out/thread/2495558/xs/ thread:>>>/xs/196297Adam Ondra sends world's hardest trad route Bon Voyage: https://youtu.be/ji4At78H5Ys
Mountain Project is a great resource for outdoor climbing>climbing areas near youhttps://www.mountainproject.com/map/>regional forumshttps://www.mountainproject.com/forum>used climbing gearhttps://www.mountainproject.com/forum/103989416/for-sale-for-free-want-to-buy
Sup /out/. What do you think of the comparative efficacy of using a single-rope technique versus a half-rope technique in multi-pitch trad climbing, particularly in terms of mitigating rope drag and potential shearing in routes with significant traverses or zigzagging pitch layouts?
Is bouldering on basalt really hard everywhere, or is it just me?
>>2728674I've never used them personally so can't give any advice. I know people do it successfully but rope management seems like it would be a nightmare.>>2728819This has also been my experience, but I've never tried bouldering on pillow basalt. I bet that would feel great.
>>2728674Single rope is great due to less rope to manage, which is always fantastic. Double rope systems work great for wandery routes and routes with some long raps. I’d choose single rope over double ropes almost every time, but that doesn’t meant half ropes aren’t useful as fuck in certain applications. I see gritstone Brit’s rocking two ropes all the time. Definitely reduces drag a ton. Another good resource is this: https://people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/high/Romped up the original route of Mescalito in red rock the other week and sport climbed in a limestone cave off the 93 last weekend. Feeling pretty good since a grade 3 AC separation in January. Looking forward to some time in Yosemite soon and trying my first real deal big wall. Any summer plans ya dirtbags?
>>2729451>Looking forward to some time in YosemiteHave you been there before? If yes, how busy is it and do you have to wait to climb or is there enough climbs that you don't have to if you hike further?
>>2729525Yes, it’s busy enough but I haven’t done many routes there. I’ve done more in Tuolumne than in the valley. Just go and get on shit who gives a fuck if you get skunked or not. Sack up and simul those pitches or wait.Also there’s plenty of climbs
>>2729451Awesome man. Which cave is that? Sounds like hard climbing.>first real deal big wallHell yeah. A dream very few will ever achieve... big walling still feels out-of-reach for me.>summer plansI'm hoping to do Exum Ridge with my brother. I'll have to get in better shape first just to keep up with the hiking. Also eyeing a guided ascent on Elephant's Perch.
>>2728649It's not really a technical climb, but have any of you guys done Huntington Ravine? I wanna do it this summer but I'm not sure it's a good idea to do it solo and I'd also like to work on my 48.https://sectionhiker.com/great-hikes-mt-washington-and-the-huntington-ravine-trail/
>>2729844I haven't done the trail. From your link and from the summitpost page it looks like it would be very safe in good weather.
>>2729833X-Cave. Cool routes out there and permadrawed so you can just slap your way up some overhung 12’s with no repercussions on your gear.>elephants perchThe sawtooths are fucking beautiful man. A buddy and I tried to do finger of fate (post-earthquake) but the sawtooths got hit with a late season snowstorm so the approach was way snowy and we weren’t exactly ready for that. Didn’t even make it to the base but had a fun day getting lost around Hell Roaring Lake and napping on the shoreline. Pretty glad we didn’t make it actually as I’d be leading the whole show and my partner was more inexperienced than I had remembered. Probably got ourselves out of trouble inadvertently and still has me wanting to go back. We went and checked out Elephants Perch the next day and took the boat ride. Hope you send!!! I’d love to go back and try the perch and FoF. Have you been to City of Rocks yet? I’d also like to go check that out. Looks like a good time. Exum seems cool too — haven’t been to the Tetons either. Been mostly in Vegas climbing Red Rocks with some forays into the eastside Sierras and Tahoe over the last few years. College and workin’Pic is “Isolation Canyon” in the middle of Arizona
>>2728674as far as i know you are never supposed to climb trad with single rope, main reason being that you don't have bolts. cams are less reliable so you want to have 2 separate ropes with separate cams. as i write this i feel less confident that this is the correct reasoning thoughanother benefit of 2 half/twin ropes over a single rope is that you have a bigger total amount of rope available for rappels, or if you need to bail (one single 80m rope vs 2x60m half ropes for example). another minor benefit is weight management, each person can carry one of the 2 lighter half ropes
>>2730136It's a good story. Sounds like it worked out for the best. I'm in Boise so I climb at City of Rocks every chance I get. It's everything it's cracked up to be, imo. I was there last weekend with some friends from the gym. We camped out in the snow and I brought my friend up his first multi-pitch. It's a 5.8 but the last pitch either traverses hard left into another 5.8 route or goes straight up into a 5.10c mixed trad/sport pitch to the top. I didn't read the route description closely enough and we almost had a real adventure... fortunately we noticed something was off after a few bolts and I was able to down climb.I highly recommend the City. Feel free to hit me up if you ever find yourself out this way and need a partner. I'm definitely jealous of your location though... spent a week in Vegas recently and the sandstone is so good. Probably the best climbing of my life.>>2730152I think the point that you were aiming for is that with twin ropes the force of a fall will be often be distributed between two pieces, instead of everything on the top piece. This is more important for cams than bolts.
I've never really been into climbing but want to start. My local rock climbing gym closed a few months back. What's a good way to get into and learn the sport without a gym?
>>2728819The basalt I've climbed has been the slipperiest crap rock I've ever had the displeasure of touching. Least favorite rock type hands down
>>2730200>I'm in Boise so I climb at City of Rocks every chance I get. It's everything it's cracked up to be, imo.How 2 get into climbing?Im in boise too (caldwell actually) but i want to learn how to climb. So far everything i've done is nontechnical
>>2730897I'm heading to Cape Disappointment this weekend to climb on the sea stacks (pic related). They're pillow basalt that formed underwater and have excellent climbing. Some of my favorite rock for sure. Vantage is columnar but has some good stuff... The Feathers in particular are awesome. I believe French's Dome in OR is a volcanic neck and that's pretty fun. There are many different types of basalt. I'll agree that most of it sucks though.>>2730898Most people will just meet a more experienced climber who shows them the ropes. Another option is the Gym to Crag course offered by The Commons climbing gym. This would also be a good way to meet other climbers. Lastly you could self-educate with YouTube videos, buy the gear you think you'll need, and convince your brother to belay you at the local crag. I wouldn't really recommend this.If you want, I'm happy to meet up at The Commons sometime. This is a good place to learn because we can practice mock leading and lead belaying on the auto belays. Or we could go to the Black Cliffs and dive right in if that's more your style. I'm 29 and a very normal person. Discord 3rdOrder#8224.
>>2730767See if there are any guided climbing courses in your area. These are great ways to learn. Or try the last option in this post >>2730903: Self-educate and convince someone to belay you. Pray for survival.
It's my first year of climbing outdoors and it started with winter in minnesota and the up. So far, It has been a struggle to get somebody to come out with me so I took up TRS with a grigri and basic ascender on a single strand. I picked up a copy of andy kirkpatricks book about the subject to hone is some more and am probably gonna move to using a trango vergo and a microascender, microtraxion if i can get a good deal or a ropeman 4. Any of you have some specific setups or TRS wisdom you can pass down?
I don't have any advice for you at all but I also climb in MN. What places did you hit so far?
>>2731401Sandstone and winona for the ice fest it was throwing. Very cool area. I saw that a new amtrak line is going through winona so I will be spending some time over there again for the winter
>>2730903>I'm heading to Cape Disappointment this weekend to climb on the sea stacksDidn't see anyone out there today, i'm wondering if i could drop a line down from this cliff at Waikiki and TR it
>>2731489Haha what's up you must have just missed me. I came through with the family around 2pm. They toproped the 5.9 and then I got a lot of fall practice on my project. Is that the cliff way out right by the water?
>>2731580Yeah I got there around 12 just to scope it out since I didn't have a belayer and also to enjoy the beach. I wanted to climb the 5.5 magma slab but it was covered in kelp and barnacles at the start but I did get a good look at the anchor thats up there. That cliff is about a 5 min drive south of your picture
>>2728649I can almost palpably get a sense of what it feels like for both feet to give out under me and then the sound of my chin smashing a hard, dense surface. I would hold my sore hands (from holding them to the harsh rock face as I slid) to my battered face and take some deep breaths while feeling very much in my mid-30s, and I would decide that it was a fun thing to try. I would check my teeth in the relfection of my phone screen.The iron smell in my nose (the type you get from internal facial trauma) would be sharp in my onstrils as I went back to the car.I am noit a rock-climber, but I can imagine myself being one for a few hours.
>>2728674I tried half ropes on a meandering slab and it doubled the rope drag. I'm guessing that's why American trad is mostly on singles, because we have the slabs.
>>2731765Ah yeah I've done that one. I'm no hardman but it's a pretty easy solo when it's dry; not even 5.5.I've never been to Waikiki with a rope but I've always wanted to. That anchor looks simultaneously bomber and sketch as fuck.
Recently recleaned this near-forgotten problem to project. Super-nice rock, over the bulge with no real holds, just friction.
Fuck yeah, climbing general, it's been too long.So far this season at the Gunks has been great. Been pushing grades way beyond what I'd hoped for and having a ton of fun cruising up routes that were a challenge just a couple years ago.Looking forward to ticking off all the classic 5.8-5.9's and testing myself on the 10's where it really starts to get interesting.Any NE anons want to get after it hit me up.
>>2732859That's awesome man. Post some pictures! I've found that I'm actually climbing weaker than I was a couple of years ago. Not a huge surprise since life has been kicking my ass recently, but still disappointing. I'm gonna have to get back on the hangboard.
>>2731580bump
>>2732207Those horizontal cracks look pretty nice. The photo reminds me of this boulder I found in Index from following mountainproject coordinates. It must not have been climbed in a while because in the pictures it was totally clean. Later I found a couple wire brushes hanging from a tree. I might give it a scrub next time I'm out there.
Any East Anglian Climbers itt?From what I can see God decided to leave our patch of the Isles bereft of any nice walls or boulders.I'd like to take up rock climbing as a hobby and get /out/ more but it seems I'll have to catch a train and a bus if I ever want to actually climb something not made of plastic
>>2733988Pretty much stuck for outdoors climbing where you are, the closest thing would be old railway bridges.
>>2734006Bouldering gym it is then, the local University campus hosts a climbing club which is open to the public and does organised trips to good climbing spots, maybe I'll check in with them about belay training and the like too
Is there a good level of fitness I should attain before I start climbing. I'm not morbidly obese or anything but I'm around 95 kilograms (down from 110) and I've been working on my cardio. But I worry my muscles will not be completely up to the task, I've started physically training in earnest again and I was wondering what a good baseline to shoot for would be.
>>2735549Generally if you're starting with an indoors gym you'll find they set lots of accessible routes. You might hit a cap without weightloss depending on your height/strength but that won't be for awhile and you likely won't get hurt badly if you're not a retard about it. There is lots you can practice on vertical walls ignoring that. ganbatte
>>2735957Arigato Claimba-senpai
What rock types are more summer-friendly? I usually take the summers off because it's quite humid and I'm a sweaty person in general, but I might try to get out regularly this summer.
Sent my first 11a
>>2737792nice dude! that rock type looks really fun to climb
>>2737792Sick. Looks beefy.
I feel like this thread is me and another pnw anon, vegas anon, and the occasional international anon
>>2739642I think you are probably right. I remember there was a Cali anon in the old threads, and an Eastern schizo who was developing new routes, but they haven't found their way back.Where was your video taken? That looks gigantic!
>>2737792Fuck yea bro. I sent my 1st 11a last year and am working on an 11b. Think I got it next go. Yours looks stout the whole way! Where at?>>2739642Ya lol it gets boring talking to the same 3 dopes on a rope. Need some anons who actually like going outside in here…shit post, even. 4chan sucks now for real conversation. I haven’t been climbing as much as I used to, but plan to bail Vegas for the summer and head to Yosemite once the van is done and my homies are ready to roll. I’m going fucking crazy here just working and sport climbing in shady crags. It’s even got me wanting to get a girlfriend just to break up the monotony. At least I’m gonna go train today…
I’ve been sport climbing for a while now. Been wanting to work into multi pitch but don’t know anyone personally that could teach me and my usual climbing partner. How retarded would it be to teach ourselves? Maybe start with rappelling, get the hang of it by rappelling on top rope?
>>2739844one of the euroanons here, i keep forgetting to take pictures when im climbing so i just end up lurking.. i live really close to most of crags i climb at anyways so its a bit weird for me to post pics of them toorecently ive been projecting a 7a+ route but i keep falling at the crux, all my friends have left for the summer holiday so will probably have to continue trying closer to autumn sadly>plan to bail Vegas for the summer and head to Yosemite once the van is donegot a similar plan but i think it will be hard to find partners for me if i do that, though im really hoping someone from my climbing club brings me along on a big wall this summer but the chance for that is really low i guess
>>2739654>Where was your video taken? That looks gigantic!Wolf Rock in Oregon >>2739844>Yours looks stout the whole way! Where at?Hanging Judge at Broughton Bluff, its really fun but over too soon I'll occasionally post on the /xs/ thread but it reads more like a /fit/ thread than I'd like
>>2739880Not retarded. Learn to rap first, for sure. Anywhere you can set a TR you can rap. Rapping is easy but it sucks, though. Easily the worst part of multipitch. If you can find a climb with a walk-off, do that.My first multi was in snow canyon near st. george. An amazing 5.9 5 pitch sport route (you can link it in 3 pitches though) with good anchors the whole way. Was my partners' first multipitch, too. As long as you're not retarded multipitch really isn't much different. My partner brought a pre-tied quad while I built my belays with the rope.There's not many good, long bolted multis in america, though. Once you get a taste for it you're gonna immediately want to learn to place gear. There're 100x the multipitch trad routes as there are bolted multipitches. But even on gear, I still prefer if there are bolted anchors.
>>2739965Thanks for the reply. Trad is definitely the goal, multi just seems like the best next step.I’ve actually been eyeing a Potrero Chico trip once we’re comfortable, I’ve heard it has a shit ton of sport
hanging out at 120ftinstalled a new ptz cam
>>2739936>Wolf RockThat would have been my guess. I've always wanted to do it but the runouts and route finding have me spooked. I also lack any partners with sufficient experience. I assume you were on Morgul Vale? How was the crux pitch?
>>2740051>warming my feet by the radio transmitter
>>2740051is that for work?
>>2740059>I assume you were on Morgul Vale? How was the crux pitch?The crux pitch wasn't that bad some of the hardware is suspect though. Climbing it in direct sun was not fun though.
>>2740040If you're in the southwest then head to St. George. Snow canyon has a bunch of good bolted multipitches 5.10 and under. Plus, it's gorgeous and not a fucking zoo like zion
>>2728649Had a near death accident last time I went climbing so i've given up on it for now.
>>2728649Climbing really isn't an /out/ topic anymore. You'll have better luck on /xs/.
>>2740667Well, tell us about it
>>2740605I’ve had my eye on Snow Canyon, that place looks sick. Seconding some St. George action, hit up Bluff St. for some good splitters right on the edge of town.
>>2740677Also how is climbing not an /out/ topic? What *is* an /out/ topic?
>>2740677The /xs/ threads kind of suck though. Too many egos floating around, and talking about gym climbing gets really boring.
>>2740849Climbing absolutely is an /out/ topic. Ignore him.
>>2740605I’m CO based. I believe there’s some bolted multi in the canyons in the front range. Hoping for bolted alpine stuff somewhere but I haven’t looked yet.I did go out yesterday and rappelled for the first time on a short route. Was successful, so thank you anon for the push.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wdob1ZA5nUi did my first real outdoor climb and repel last September i was pretty scared but it was a cool experience
>>2741109Cool but it's "rappel"
>>2741109>I think this is the slow side>sets up a fast rappelkek
>>2741109Homie had you all twisted up on that ATC set up and the bar tack on your prussik was in the least optimal spot!Have you rapped since? Keep the rope straight as an arrow, no twists or turns or cross-overs (this increases friction). The bar tack on the prussik loop should be flat and ideally not wrapped around the rope (clean wraps for a clean rap). Otherwise seemed pretty run of the mill for a guys first rappel, and you didn’t die so everything worked the way it should, although with tons of friction and definitely looking like it’s your first time and your partners third or fourth lol. Nice to see a video of an anon around here!
>>2740975Oh shit really? I'm in the front range now too so I'm definitely gonna find summadem bolted multis this summer.Gratz on the rapping, too. One small step for mankind, one giant leap for anon.
Tell it to me straight, can I rock climb without any equipment? For cliffs less than 30 feet?
>>2741109Nice anon, also it'll work better if you have the big basket of the carabiner on the rope side and try to avoid wearing dangly things as they can get caught on a bunch of things while climbing
>>2741270Who's going to stop you? If you wear a helmet you're almost guaranteed to survive a 30ft fall. Either way you could be a great data point.
>>2741451what the fuck, how do women fall so much? link the paper pls
>>2740849Boots, ticks, male /fa/shion, which state is best for /out/ even though no one here actually goes outside, Teddy K, Alexander Superspeeder, van life.
Got out to trout creek the other day
>>2742620Nice wall
>>2742620I've always thought this place looks kind of depressing but I've never been myself. How is the climbing? Looks like pure crack, unlike say Vantage.
>>2742620Anon that's just the Devil's Postpile.
>>2742664The formation is really neat to look at, the climbing is just crack, stem, and offwidth. The few face holds are godsends to sport climbers. The basalt is very textured on the inside and feels like popcorn ceiling as opposed to the almost glass like columns of Smith's lower gorge.
bump
>>2741115>>2741117>>2741198>>2741384Thanks it was my first time and my friend I did it with was fairly new to it I met him on the /o/ board that was in Moab and that was the first part of rappel my GoPro died but the next part was a 50 meter open air rappel down was very cool. I only ever did rock climbing in a gym a few times up until that point I haven't been out since I've been in Australia working and riding motorcycle around for fun
Climbing with dad for father's day.Also: I noticed on MP that somebody put up a route on Crown Point recently. 5 pitches 5.11 and fully bolted. Hopefully I can take a shot at it sometime this summer.
>>2744773Looking glass rock was the climb
>>2744774I hear that it's only good for 2 pitches and the rest is dangerous to the point that cleaning can't fix.
>>2744828Hmm. Thanks for the tip. Might give the first two pitches a go then.I'm reminded of this trip report from St. Peter's Dome: https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/59025-tr-st-peters-dome-south-face-direct-426/This along with other trip reports on the same rock have cured any interest I might have had in climbing rotten basalt.
>>2744831Not the first two, I think the 3rd and 5th were the only good one with every pitch having death blocks. Thanks for that link the report had me gripped lol
>>2744774Based graybeard climber. Absolutely peak kino. Tell him I said so.
>>2744986Ah okay. I will give it a miss then. Definitely want to hike up and get a good look at St. Peter's Dome sometime, although I'd never climb it. I think the area is still closed after the fire though.>>2744991Haha thanks. He used to be a framer and he has no fear of heights. Beacon Rock is next.
