/bbg/ Bike Building General"I'm not paying Park for a fucking bike stand, or cleaning my shed" Edition.A place to ask questions, and to share tips & resources. Post your projects, your finished & in-process builds, restorations, etc.Resources:Barnett's Bicycle Repair Manual - https://www.flwlib.org/DocumentCenter/View/2461/Bike-RepairUCSB Associated Students Bike Shop Manual (2022) - https://bikeshop.as.ucsb.edu/files/2021/08/AS-BIKE-SHOP-WEB-MANUAL.pdfSheldon Brown's Bicycle Technical Info - https://www.sheldonbrown.com/Bike parts, tools, etc. - https://www.universalcycles.com/Chinkshit:https://www.aliexpress.com/category/200010436/bicycle-repair-tools.htmlhttps://www.aliexpress.com/category/1222/bicycle-parts.html>Bike Questions General >>>/n/bqg>Wheels General >>>/n/wg>Bike Apparel General >>>/n/bag>Post Your Bike Thread>>>/n/pybt
>>1991676Finished brazing a cromoly frame together couple months ago, ended up at 5 pounds.
>>1991708did you use acetylene? i have been looking into doing this and it's kind of expensive to get the tanks/gas. plus you are probably going to have to build a few before you can get it down right.
>>1991722Acetylene is better, but you can use some smaller torches, as long as your making a lugged bike. It would be stupid to fillet braze with something like propane.
>>1991467>How hard would it be to manufacture my own bike frame?Broad question. There are so many variables--your idea, your skills, what tools you have, etc.I'd say it ranges from "a fair bit of work" to "really quite difficult". It's a bit like having an idea for a website or program, and saying "I don't do programming though".>>1991469If you're brand new, the easy thing to do is copy something good.>wouldn't the lugs determine the geoIn general yes. There are different sets, for various tubing diameters, different angles, etc.The lug supplier will either have a drawing of the angles/dimensions, or a listing of them that you can plug into something like BikeCAD. Super useful if you're building a traditional 'diamond' frame.The amount of clearance/wiggle room depends on what alloy you're using for the joint, but it will be a tiny number. Something like .002-.006. A piece of copy paper is ~.004.If you're gonna bend something... it's gonna be the tubes.>now that you can weld the tubes instead of braize them to lugsThis was one of the big changes in the cycling world. If you look through ancient mtb catalogs, for a while the lower tier stuff was lugged & brazed, the higher tier stuff welded or fillet brazed. Because the latter option was much more freeform wrt to tubing lengths, angles, etc when people were really experimenting with what worked well.You both seem interested in the topic, check out some of this guy's videos. This recent one is specifically about kind of a half & half technique, where you sorta get the look, but aren't locked into set angles, etc.Bilaminate Construction on a BICYCLE HEADTUBE // paul brodie's shop https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uK9yeHU14rk
this was the worst financial decision of my life
>>1991731what do frame builders use to cut and cope the tubing for filet brazing? are they doing it by hand with a bandfile, or do they use a hole saw in a jig or something?
I’ve been looking into the idea of welding/brazing disc brake mounts to an old GT bravado steel frame.Most conversions seem to add ISO-tabs, but since flat mount calipers are both more available and also sleeker I’d wanna go with that if possible. Is the chainstay strong enough to handle it without a brace? 140 or 160mm discs.Since a flat mount conversion would put the caliper between chain and seatstay, a brace right next to it would maybe help a little, but the braking force would ofc be centered right at the mounting spot.I’ve seen it done, but maybe it’s a bad idea?Not my frame in picture, but one just like it
wee
>>1991750
holy shit this is the first time ive seen this board and the catalog has 5 bike threads and i need bike advicei got an old dutch steel bike (literally made in 1984, no joke) for free from some old dutch people and it hasnt been riden for a decade. the goal is to restore it to a single speed with panniers and rim brakes. any tips?
>>1991766your'e dutch. throw it in a canal and steal a new one
>>1991772no im australian. theres no bikes around to steal and i would certainly get in trouble for it. it was shipped here and put in their garden as a feature piece until they gave it to me
>>1991745It's gonna be a lot of work either way and probably require bracing. Personally I wouldn't even bother and just put a disc brake fork on the frame and keep a decent V-brake at the rear, stopping power is 70% front brake anyway.
>>1991778Yeah I figure, though I don't mind putting in the work if I know a good result is achievable.I don't plan to ride it super hard or anything, so V-brakes would surely be enough. I just wanna build a cool looking bike with modern components on the frame I like
>>1991728yeah i was thinking about mapp for small stuff, i wanted to try brazing stuff on my bike, but yeah, propane definitely wouldn't get hot enough for that.>>1991742ohh, i wasn't sure. i found out there is a welding supply place near me so i'll have to ask before i pick some up second hand.
>>1991780Build a mullet, with disc front and rim back.
>>1991911isn't the front like 80% of your braking power anyway? I'm always using the front brake by itself, but tend to only use the back brake in conjunction with the front, for quick stops.
>>1991911If you do this make sure you get a mechanical disc brake at the front (fuck fluids btw) and a V-brake at the rear so you can use matching long pull brake levers, or if you insist on a cantishit rear brake for hipster meme points use brake levers that can be adjusted between long pull and short pull.
>>1991745put it on top of the seat stay near the dropouts, mig is just fine
>>1991760bought this piece of crap for the fenders, basket, and rack.
>>1992042$10 bike. was gonna throw it away after i pulled all the stuff off
>>1992043but i never had a klunker before, so i assembled this piece of shit
>>1992042i-is that a blood?
>>1992187im not good at this
what tool can i get to unfuck my bb threads?
>>1992300Get a hacksaw and cut a slot in the o.d. threads of the BB cartridge then use it like a die to slowly chase the threads. Only go a little at a time then back off. The slot gives a place for the chips to go. Use oil, too.
>>1992303thanks for the tip bro. i sorted it tho. turns out the new bb just had shit threads fuck the chinks, sometims.
Cracked wheel discs, 35 year old plastic that hasn’t gone super brittle, but it was never flexible to begin with
>>1992454Automotive wiring harness tape, it’s like hockey tape but more sticky and a finer weave. So it’s super flexible and sticks to anything pretty well.Fits around these curves where the cracks are great. It’s not permanent, but nothing short of super glue would be, and I don’t want to potentially fuck that up. I might basically put a backing layer on both disc sides, like a big vinyl sheet or something, just to give it some more support
>>1992455nice. i wonder if plastic welding with zip ties would be feasible, or if the stock is too thin, or a different type of plastic. size those holes and when you do your final fix you can just cover those small holes and redrill them out instead of fiddling with trying to shape or cut around them.
>>1992464The other idea I was thinking of for them is to reinforce the wear points and edges. Basically wrap aluminum rings around the valve hole, then the inside and outside edges, and bond washers to the bolt holes. This stuff is too thin to involve heat, it would warp immediately. This is distinctly for show, this isn’t an everyday ride, but I just want them to be a bit more secure for peace of mind.They’re designed to be somewhat compliant so my other concern is say I cut some aluminum U trim to fit the rim of the disc, and that extra rigidity actually leads to failure.
>>1992465the original setup for that is so cool despite the gimmicks. I had one that I had to modify a bit for a shorter friend, the stem was like 140mm and weighed 500 grams lol. Looks pretty racy with my saddle height. Beautiful frame, I love the wishbone.
>>1992513Yeah this one is a bit small on me, it’s a 19” frame and I’m best on 20-21”, so the low and forward thing is amplified a lot.The melon Marin above is 21” and fits me greatBut it absolutely rips anyway, and looks super cool. We don’t have these in the US so it’s definitely a unique one to be riding around
>>1992518I forgot this isn’t the post your bike threadMelon Marin >>1992163which also needed a lot of work, I got that thing in a really sorry state but it cleaned up very nice
>>1991676any idea on building a nice diy bike stand?
>>1992580I would check used first
Is it practical to get a hand torch type thing to braze a few lugged frames together? I’m assuming welding is too much up front cost for just a few frames, and I can’t imagine I’d get skilled at it anyway.
>>1992948That's the reason bikes of the past were lugged and brazed until it became profitable to mass produce welded bikes. The bigger issue will be a frame jig
you'll want an oxy/acetylene mix. it's a few hundred dollars. you'll need to buy a torch, some tips, and then go get a bottle of gas and air at a supply house. then of course you'll need a ton of other tools. i'd acquire things slowly and cheaply via facebook, flea markets, yard and estate sales.
>>1992956That’s encouraging, thank you.
>>1992948For a few bike frames, a used tig vs oxy acetylene are somewhat comparable. You can do lots of other things with both of them aside from making bikes, depends on what way you want to make bikes and what else you would do with the tools.
I'm not paying $25 for this.
this old reflector will do
>>1993182nice
cut it down
take your time so you get a good, even cut kek
let's pretend like we're not in the bush league
that'll do
this paint has seen a few presidents
and now we wait
gonna need these. i really need to buy a set of tap and dies.
tenatively calling this a success. i'll eventually tap and slot it so it's not a pain in the ass every time i need to change a brake cable. fuck you amazon.
>>1993197Brilliant
>>1993197there is a diy bike hacks thread fyi
>>1993436yeah let's further splinter content on the board that gets 12 visitors a day
I got this 1982 Miyata 610 from the original owner yesterday, fifty bux.A touring bike, mid spec in the range. The seller said when he bought it the bike shop guy talked him into some upgrades, so it has the same derailers & shifters that came with the 1000. It also has a double instead of a triple. Said he never rode it much, and I believe him.The marks on the rear dropouts say the rear skewer was clamped down twice, hardly any scuffs on the fd, etc. The ancient tires are rotten, but still have the little bit of rubber flash, where the molds met. Must have rode it very little.This is gonna to be a replacement for my old 'old ten speed fixed gear', and it's good for that. The rear is 120mm, the shift mounts & derailer cable guides are the band/removable type, and the rest of the dimensions fit 1980s Japanese stuff, nothing odd.The previous one I wrecked in 2022--bent the steerer tube, top tube, down tube, RIP. So everything comes off this, and parts from the wrecked bike go on. I'll keep a few bits, at least the derailers, shifters.Not a great pic, but I rarely remember to take one before disassembly. The white sheet is a sewing machine cover, keeps the dust off.
>>1993916neat. are those suntour cyclone derailleurs? I have one of those cranks, the logo looks similar
>>1992580>building a nice diy bike stand?Does 'nice' mean 'looks good' or 'works'?I'm gonna assume you think something like a Park stand is too expensive for what it is. There's two cheap ideas that I've seen, that I think are reasonable.1st, if you have an exposed rafter (garage, porch, basement, etc), you can just use a piece of string. Either loop the string over, or use an eye bolt, etc. One at the saddle, one at the handlebars.I think most people dislike this, because it's not absolutely fixed/your bike can swing a bit. Kind of the formal version of hooking the nose of your saddle over a tree branch.2nd really cheap way is to make a tubing block, like what you'd use to hold tubes when building a frame. Tends to be some kind of hardwood, where you bore out the correct size hole (holesaw, auger, forstner bit), then saw the block in half & put a 'hinge' on it, usually a bit of leather. Then you clamp this block to/in something.It's low-tech, but assumes you have some round tube on your bike (seatpost?) to put it on. Not my pic.I used to ride with a guy, he had one of those basement screw jack pillars, and he made a block to fit the pillar, one to fit his seatpost, and used two wood clamps. There's a bit more to it, but you get the idea. He was 6'3", and the ergonomics were surprisingly good.
>>1993930leather flap was smart.
>>1991676jewwww white Chinese, the shit hole racist pedo American white pigs, experience Pearl Harbor again and be slaughtered and exterminated!from japan
>>1993916Those shifters look caveman, what are they?
>>1994336what do you mean? they're just clamp on dt shifters. look like arx shifters i had once, but i'm sure they're probably cyclone or something based on the rd.
>>1994355They look way chunkier around the barrel then any other DT shifters I've seen, but that may be a quirk of the photo. I agree they're probably early Cyclone.
>>1991728This is a bogus claim. I use oxy ace but using oxy propane or literally any other oxy fuel setup gets you there. If I didnt happen to have the oxy ace setup I wouldnt have gone the ace route and would have opted for oxy propane instead because theres not a single reason not to. But alot of upsides, handling, safety, cost, sometimes even law.So yeah, explain why oxy propane would be inferior for brazing. Protip: You cant.
>>1991743cut at the correct angle, use a half round file (they are 25 mm and 30 mm here) to get you close and a smaller half round or round file to get bang on. Other than that use anything, ive adopted a shaper and at another time a pantograph copy mill to make it faster and easier work but alwwys followed up with a hand file. Because you got to piss with the cock you have.
>>1994388>Because you got to piss with the cock you have.kek
The Paterek Manual.pdfhttps://files.catbox.moe/itiykq.pdfThe Proteus Framebuilding Book.pdfhttps://files.catbox.moe/o4d2qf.pdfhere's a bonus for you allJoe Friel - The Cyclist Training Bible [Scan by yazper].pdfhttps://files.catbox.moe/iiloff.pdf
>>1994553Thank you. I forgot framebuilding was a thing when I made this thread.
>>1994554I just recently remembered I had those books deep in my archive and need to share it, really interesting information even if you or I or anon never build a bike, there's some really deep topics discussed there
>>1994560i got like 3gb of crap i've hoarded, but it was grabbed via automation, so there's a bunch of cringe titles sprinkled in. i'll rar it and upload it if anyone wants.
oh the difference between bearingprotools press compared to chinkshit onealso wind-out puller such a nice thing to haveno hammering needed
>need new wheels>tires at ~15% life, might as well get new tires>since my brakes are seizing from corrosion I might as well upgrade the brakes too>recently replaced sprocket and chain>I better deep clean the chain while I'm at itAlright, smoke break is over, going back to work, I'm only about halfway through
oh yeah baby these brake calipers are unnecessarily extra lol, also 28mm continental granprix all-rounders mount to 29.4mm on archetypes, 0.6mm smaller than continental's tire that's one segment down, the grandsport race which mounted to 30.0mm. I can't compare the tires since I haven't taken the bike out yet
>fubi fixie bike patented designhow hard would it be to recreate this myself?
>>1993916>rest of the dimensions fit 1980s Japanese stuff, nothing oddOops, the headset was JIS, and I only had ISO ones laying around.Tange MA60, looked kind of cool, rinko style, but it had little spots of rust on the chrome. It's one of those things, you can temporarily clean it up, but the plating is compromised and it will always re-rust. Had to order one.>>1993921Yeah, it's a pair of Cyclone Mk-II derailers, FD-2300 & RD-3700. I quite like them.They're well made, the specs work for me, and they look good. I think that checks all the boxes.>have one of those cranksOld SR cranks, 'Super Custom' on the side, but that sounds fancier than what they are. This is before 110/74 won out, so the rings are an obsolete size, 118.I'll see how they polish up, and maybe put them in the bin for later ss/fixed use.>>1994336Suntour Superbe LD-2000 is the part number. Just simple friction shifters (no ratchet mechanism).>>1994355Quite similar. They work fine, but have that 70s styling, with the decorative little metal dimples. Nothing special. I much prefer the ones that came out just a few years later, with the thin, flat, smooth levers.I'll cut the band apart to free up the stop washers, so they become normal dt shifters.>>1994382I guess you're talking about the nut & bolt on the back side of the band.
>>1993916what year, 81 or so ?
>>1995135oops, 82 i see...i've got an 85 - super comfy.
I want to strip the paint off my bike and I want a bare steel frame. Pic related, it's the bike I got 4 years ago. Rides extremely well, upgraded it, hate the name/frame colour, etc etc... I want to know if I can do it myself, what tools/chemicals I need, and what kind of stuff I need to protect the frame? Is this something I should get paid to be done (e.g.: sandblasting), or can I do it myself? I need tools to take off the crown, BB and other stuff as well, anything I can use to improvise here?Cheers.
>>1995226Don't do it it's a beautiful bike. Expecially if you don't have another bike. Just ride. The bare steel it's particularly stupid. If you have money just buy one from those dresden hipsters or do it on a pos used bike.It's a good idea only because you'd learn everything on assembling a bike. You'd need a lot of tools that you can't improvise.
>>1995226It’ll look shit unless it’s professionally polished and coated, and I doubt you’ll find anyone who can do that. You’ll end up with a dirty brown rusty pole if you try to strip it.
>>1995243>>1995244I wasn't expecting these answers, but I respect it. The reason for wanting to change the paint is to mainly get rid of the stupid "SERIOUS" logo on the side (trust Germans to do branding right?). The green, meh, I can take it or leave it. But one thing that pisses me off to no end is that they put a thick clear lacquer ON TOP of the stickers, which makes removal a nightmare.Right now I don't have the tool/space/time - so I guess I'm stuck with it. What about just removing components and buying a new frame? Would that be a better idea?
>>1995301Good steel frames can get pretty expensive, but yeah that's an option if you know what you're doing. I just recently bought a new frame and moved all my parts over. Personally I've wanted to see someone buy a Tsunami frame.
>>1995301They put clear over the stickers to preserve them. BITD many italian bikes didn't have clear over the stickers(looking at you pinarello) and many of them just fell off which was a bad look.>why so SERIOUS?Could also make a joke(r) reference out of itPersonally, I find I don't mind whatever color a bike is after I ride it long enough. However if you still hate it would be easier to frame swap, but you could diy repaint. It just probably won't look as nice up close, and take way too much time.
>>1991676What carbon frame for a gravel build?- accommodates 29" 2.3" tyres- frame works OK with a front suspension fork- boost hub spacing
>>1995322bro just get a mountain bike at that point
>>1995322that's a mountain bike.
>>1995309>I've wanted to see someone buy a Tsunami frame.there's a guy here who bought a single speed frame from them, he was posting regularly but not in a while. he was happy with it, usually people would ask him when they saw it. Australian, so the shipping wasn't as bad>>1995301a lot of the cost is stripping the frame and then rebuilding after it's painted . either you pay someone to do it or you do it. it's a huge project. so is the paint, but you could sand the paint to get it into a rough surface and rattlecan spray it and clear if you want. I would. the idea is keeping the old paint and just surfacing it is like using it for primer. there's a guy who posted this very thing a few days ago, maybe in the build thread? red white and blue frame became black and pink fade. whereas a pro job, they'll strip off the paint, give it a special wash, prime, wet sand, paint, decal, clear, rebuild the bike, and it starts at $1200. shit, maybe they don't even do the unbuilding or rebuilding. also there may not be a shop near you that does it at all.
>>1995315>Personally, I find I don't mind whatever color a bike is after I ride it long enough.I'm the opposite, unless I love the bike, I want to change asap cos I get tired of things. And being autistic, having a crap paint job would be upsetting. >They put clear over the stickers to preserve them.No idea what for. Literally no one has heard of sERiOus, and they are generally viewed as some knock-off brand. Surprisingly my series of touring bikes was pretty well put together, and now is quite a performer with all the necessary upgrades. I just think the paint is bringing it down. >>1995347I can't find that guy's post. >$1200That sounds realistic, I live in Swedecuckistan where any kind of hired specialised jobs are charged through the ass. For that price I can get a Thorn/VSF/ touring frame easily, or even get a custom one built. The problem with a frame swap is what to do with the old one. I suppose someone could buy it as a cheapish steel gravel frame, but I would get near fuck all for it. I think my next move is to get quotes, do some research into someone else doing it, cos I dont have the space/time means for it.
>>1995352Do bike wraps exist?
>>1995352>I can't find that guy's posthere he is >>1993873you can follow the links on it, he's posted several more times, including the current final post. I'm sure he could walk you through it
This thing is now 1x7Old deore lx m560 cranks, 113mm bb, and a 42t origin8 chainring
>>1995375The cranks cleaned up super nice, though my diy black touch up paint on the wear areas was a bit blobby, it works, it’s just gonna wear again anyway
>>1995375Not a fan of the 1x but completely understand swapping the original cranks, bike probably lost almost a kilo with that change.
Any references on Csepel steel frames? They are cheap (sub 200€ new) and have interesting options.
>>1995381
>>1995356Hmmm... they do, but they suffer from looking like shit, and they are notoriously difficult to put on. >>1995368Cheers.
>>1995381Can you put fenders and a rack on this?
>>1995382You can't legally buy negros anymore anon.
>>1995398Sure
>>1995398ya you can see the brazed-on eyelets for them on the dropouts front and rear
anyone ever smooth out nicks and gouges on cranks with a 1"x30" belt sander or is there too much risk of removing too much material?
>>1995410I hand sanded a bunch of scrapes and dings out of my alu cranks. probably started with 80 grit or so, worked the grits down to steel wool and then aluminum polish from the auto store.a belt sander would work for the initial go if you were careful I'm sure but I'd start with 120 grit since its going to annihilate the metal much easier. I'd probably hand sand the finer grits since you're not trying to remove material at that point, just smoothing it out .
>>1995410I sanded both crank arms down with some heavy 120 grit sandpaper. There were some massive scratches and the NDS has like 1cm of heel wear so these shimano 600 cranks were kinda toast.After the 120 I thought it looked cool and since the bike was really rough I left it and it's fine.Also used dupli color chrome spray on both chainstays since the OEM chrome finish was roasted. I can tell, anyone can tell but it doesn't bother me too much and it's better then the rust, or black splotches it had.
>>1995455>faggin' up the thread lol
Converting MTB to drop bar - BAD IDEA ???I have a carbon MTB, 29" wheels and basic Rockshox fork. The wheels are boost spacing and I did spunk some money on them last year.Gravel frame with boost spacing are practically non-existent - can I use my existing frame or will the geometry be all fucked up? It's a 54cm frame, with a 110mm stem and I am about 5ft10/11.I was considering this handlebar; https://redshiftsports.com/products/top-shelf-handlebar-system but there might be better options specifically catered toward MTB conversions.I'd either splash the cash on a mechanical GRX 1x12, or do a Frankenstein GRX 10-speed setup with my existing AdventX drivetrain.
>>1995751Great idea, although it would be nice have a look at that geometry just for the sake of it, see if you can find it on bikeinsights.But honestly I see no problems, what's the worse that could happen? A more upright stance combined with the comfort and feel of drop bars? I love it, it's the whole point of this kind of setups. But maybe you could feel cramped, that's up to you. That 110m stem baffles me though, it's a lot... is that the one you intend to mount with drops, or the one you're currently using with flats?This handlebar with that rise seems nice. If that's what you want, a little bit of rise, I don't think there's many of them. But if you already have a nice stack height than that rise could also be too much...
>>1995751It's fine. Just costs some money and you will be more aero/setup for faster less techy rides.I run 1 old mtb for road/gravel work and I just use narrow mtb bars. Like 600mm or so.
>>1995751drop bar conversion adds a huge amount of reach
>>1995757>>1995762>>1995764I might give the Surly Corner Bar a shot, I can keep my existing MTB shifters. As far as reach goes I can always swap the stem. I'm kind of a contrarian weirdo so chances are the geometry will feel perfect rather than strange.I just want to freshen up this MTB, yes flat vs drop bar is kind of pointless for weekend trail riding.
>>1995784>I'm kind of a contrarian weirdoI relate.here is another whack barhttps://velo-orange.com/collections/alt-bars/products/granola-moose-bars?variant=39251736854703
>>1995784not for me thanks, either a wide, flared dropbar or a flatbar with a nice backsweep, that thing look like a wrists and shoulder killer
How you get this off?
>>1995917You need a hook spanner
>>1995921Damn. Worried about that. How much and where can I get it?
>>1995922try google, dum dum. or just douse it in penetrant, wedge a flat-head in there, and tap it with a hammer.do you need instructions on how to wipe your ass, too?
>>1995924Yeah. Shitty, bullshit invented shameless cash in standards make me like that. And fuck me for thinking all these bike nerds might know where to not get ripped off, or used the most broken, bottom came in worthless "search engine" on the planet, you stupid goddamn faggot bitch....
>>1995926>you stupid goddamn faggot bitch....you're the moron unable to intuit how to get a lockring off.have a nice life, loser
>>1995926anon told you how to take it off without the special tool, in fact you could do almost all work on a bike without special tools, you just increase you likelihood of fucking it up more, especially since bike parts have to balance durability with weight so many parts are surprisingly fragile> just douse it in penetrant, wedge a flat-head in there, and tap it with a hammeryou're probably going to fuck it up real bad if you can't intuit how like that anon said though
>>1995924>hook spanner>>1995931Not that guy asking the question, but I just did a google search for it and it doesn't show up if you ask for a hook spanner. Lol.https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/crank-and-bottom-bracket-wrench-hcw-5
>>1995926he literally just told you how to do it with common tools you bitchnigger And those things are the opposite of shameless cash in standards, most people don't use the 'correct' tool, I have several hook spanners and they usually will only engage with one prong and only work with a relatively loose lockring. I use pic rel but a screw driver + hammer works too
>>1995926you can also use a vice, but i would be incredibly surprised if you weren't notools
>>1995935'bicycle hook spanner'
>>1995936I have the douglas branded version of this style of channellocks and I hate them.
is it normal for side pull caliper brakes to make you want to kill yourself trying to get them to stay centered and applying brake force evenly or is that just a problem with cheaper ones? also are there any that make adjusting the angle of the pads not miserable? i can't fucking stand dealing with my bike's brakes and i'll gladly replace them if i can be less annoyed
>>1995949Single or dual pivot? Does the brake have a centering screw? How true are your wheels?
>>1995952single pivot; no centering screw; they're still very true
>>1995953Yeah single pivot are a huge pain in the ass, I've never been able to centre them properly, then keep them centred. I've moved my bikes to dual pivot Tekro R559 for that reason.
>1995924>1995928>1995931>1995936>1995937>Why would I be helpful, when I could be RUDE...>>1995917I have several hook wrenches, and those Hozan pliers, but the other day I had to resort to a hammer & punch for a headset lockring similar to yours.Either my tools didn't match the curve (pin slips), or the pattern was wrong (no opposed notches).Always makes me feel dirty to take a hammer to something on a bike though. Even for smacking out bearings on a shouldered axle, etc.And since none of the ruders mentioned it--the lockring is very likely left hand/reverse thread.>>1995935'Spanner' is the cute British word for 'wrench'. Wait until you hear what they call vise grips/locking pliers.>>1995942These Knipex ones have replaced my tongue and groove pliers & adjustable wrenches. Get them when Menards has a bag sale. They're so good.The jaws are smooth and close parallel, so they don't mangle anything. I used these the other day to take out a bb fixed cup, even though I have the special tool somewhere (in the very bottom of my toolbox... probably).The manufacturer claims "10x your grip strength", and I believe it.Those little wire cutters are serious business too. A brand new pair, because I took the other ones to work....I had all of these tools laying out because I'm doing a round robin thing with four bikes right now.The ugly truth is that I was keeping a bike that was too small for me. And I'm finally swapping out.
>>1995956enGraved Is My Pepper
>>1995949normal. they center AFTER they make contact with the wheel. one side will always want to grab before the other, but functionally this doesn'tr eally matter.
>>1995956i like cobras ok, but i still like old school tongue and groove the best.
>>1995953if you don't have one of those thin spanners that can turn the wrench flats on the bit between the caliper and the fork, get one. I actually made mine from scrap metal. park etc make them. makes the adjustment no big deal
>>1995949I love side pull brakes. I tend to just loosen the nut on the back and spin the whole brake or adjust the cable tightness if it's janky.I could be doing it wrong, but it seems to work.
>>1995949This usually means the caliper needs a service, actually, most single pivot calipers badly need a service and will work much better afterwards. Lazy man's service is you remove the pads so as not to contaminate them, and just blast the pivot with wd40 and then a nice spray lube, both times, working it open and closed a million times. Proper service take it completely apart, clean everything, and thinly grease all the pivoting surfaces and threads. It's easy to do with single pivot calipers. >are there any that make adjusting the angle of the pads not miserableThe trick is to lightly grease (clean first if old) the washers and the thread of the bolt. That makes them much easier to adjust. Cleaning and greasing stuff is really most of working on bikes.
>>1995963lol no i mean yeah sure but also no
Put a 203 on the front and 180 on the rearThe front as a whole flexes so much under strain that it rubs a little while pedaling hard which is amusing
>>1996013This is stupid and I’m ordering a straight IS 180mm adapter, but this works for nowIf anything I should use aluminum m6 bolts so they’ll fail before the frame cracks
>>1996013If you told me that frame was from the 90's i would almost believe it.That's my issue with 8in/203mm rotors too. Seem to be constantly rubbing, which is fine doing DH but sucks pedaling.Still, at least you got the experience. For most of my trails 160 or 180/160 is my preferred setup with a good brake.
>>1995987but also yeah
>>1996014Yeah this didn’t work, the 180/160 are going back onIt just flexes too much, especially the rear. The front I kinda expected it to do that and it did get better over the day, but the rear with the two adapters just isn’t happening.>>1996018It is a 2003 castellano fango, basically a first gen ibis ripley but with the designer John Castellano’s name on itIt’s an aluminum softtail, the chainstays are flexible http://www.castellanodesigns.com/fango.html
>>1995375Also as I do more to thism560 derailleur, including touch up paint and new old stock jockey wheelsProblem, the freewheel mount isn’t perfect so it kinda wobbles, which makes the derailleur click, which is annoying as fuck
>>1995375>original chainring That's a 5 bolt 94 bcd external and 54 bcd internal rig which means either keeping the old chainring or spending a capital on ebay for new machined chainrings.i know because i have one. thank god the 22 teeth chainring is steel.
>>1996102wow, they're leaf springs. if the guy imitated an old design, that must mean it works pretty well, but then why don't we see more like that? just not as much travel as more modern shocks I guess?
>>1996145Nah not original, Origin8 the brand. It's a new chainring>>1996160We do see it now, cannondale has some of their higher end XC bikes that use carbon flexstaysI'm surprised it isn't more popular for gravel bikes, it's not like full suspension, it's closer to a hardtail, but the rear flexes just enough to smooth out a lot of rough stuff
>>1996228what's under the boot on the seatstays? elastomer, coil, or air/oil?
>>1996233Elastomer, it's held up pretty well after 20 years. It's adjustable with a bottom bracket tool
>>1991676>Bike Building GeneralI'm really iffy about the term 'building' to describe what we're doing here. I say 'building up' but isn't 'building' actually making a frame ? Also I think people coming to tinkering should be encouraged to think overhaul and reuse rather than custom. I personally regret how many projects I went too custom on for no real reason, and many people don't even have cone spanners but spring straight to custom chinkgroups or want to repaint without rust problems. >>1991708>Finished brazing a cromoly frame together couple months ago, ended up at 5 pounds.That is awesome but 99% of anons are just gonna be putting something together. Can we say 'project thread' next time ? Not a demand and kinda curious what others think about this.
>>1996263Well I would say "building up a bike" would be what most of us do, where as "building a frame" or "constructing a frame" would be a definition of brazing/welding/laying carbon.I think it depends on how much someone cares about the definition, or how strong their ego is.Personally, I repair and repaint if required. Have stick welded a loose seatstay and it's been fine so far, obviously not the right fix but it rides fine.
>>1996267i just have an enormous amount of respect for people who do build bicycles and want to show that with the language i use Not to be overly pedantic when people say it but the title of a general is pretty significant
Finally got around to drilling out the fork & seatstay bridge on that Miyata 610. Almost finished.The original brakes were a pair of Dia-Compe single pivot, external nut. Didn't really want to use them. I have a pair of take-off RX100 brakes (BR-A550) laying around, but they're recessed nut.Yeah some people say "brakes not necessary", but even on a fixed gear I like having them. Don't think I'll use this ss, but options are good.So I got some stub length HSS drills 7mm & 8mm, and for the inside rear, the cheapest right angle drill attachment that I thought would work.Out of the package that thing was super crunchy. Took it apart, no grease lol. So I put some on the bevel gears & needle bearings. Also it's a not-great-quality keyless chuck, and couldn't grip the smooth shank bits tight enough... until I used two pairs of vise grips. Only needed it for one hole, and it held up. Good enough.Also drilled out 2 of 4 half-moon spacers, because they have to accept the recessed nut. The frame & fork don't have flat spots like later ones would. Used a smooth jaw vise, and I was surprised they didn't shift. That's a sizeable drill, and if you clamp too hard the spacer folds in half.Removed the triple-box nuts from the backs of the calipers, to "recover" some bolt length. I don't anticipate any problems. The tip of the spring is captive, and there is a steel washer between it and the half moon spacer.That's a mockup of what the mounting looks like. Still waiting on my Universal order with slightly longer recessed nuts.I rarely use this pen-style Dremel, but this little carbide bit was just the thing for deburring these holes, esp in the fork crown.>>1995962I'm not paranoid, but I have a rare first name. /n/ is a nice enough board, but
>>1996275I mean, when people refer to their bike as a "build," that means they've significantly retrofitted it or built it up from a bare frame. a "bike build" isn't used to refer to a frame you've built out of tubing etc (although that could be part of a build, I suppose,) you would say "I built this frame" in that case.I admit the op title is confusing but if you read the post it clearly means the common idiom as I have outlined.I would propose "bike project general" in the future but I think the current title is fine for all but the strictest pedants.
>>1996284More of a single pivot fan, but that looks good.I use my dremel for a ton of stuff like cutting housing, smoothing out any semi-major frame damage, and deburring like you are talking about.
I am in the process of making my bike lighter, I am only a bit conflicted about the chain guard, I want to keep the chain protected from dirt/rain and such, and be juuust sturdy enough to not be able to change the chain on accidental impact (if it were to happen by my foot I mean). Should I just get a chain glider or maybe something like this?
>>1996263don't post itt if you didn't even invent the universe to begin with
>>1996408chainguards are based, they weight like nothing, and you're min-maxing in the wrong area, minimal gains for significant lost convenience.
So my plans to make a city bike with 16 speeds and only two gears (nexus 8 speed hub and FSA Metropolis Patterson) fell apart when I realized my frame didn't work with the wheel. What do I need to look for via a vis a frame that does actually fit a rim brake Nexus/Alfine wheel?
>>1996729chainguards are the wrong solution to a problem. we have drip wax lubes nowadays
>>1996753Waxing chains is deviant homosexual behavior
>>1996757Based
>>1996757nta but drip wax isn't waxing your chain, and calling it that deviant behaviort. homosexual with a waxed chain (and anus)
I like how the death of middle class can be seen in something as silly as used bike parts. Pre-covid I could pop onto local marketplaces and find just about anything for any price point, but nowadays it's either recent extreme low end (more often than not sold by people who are too lazy to check amazon, nevermind ali, for comparable parts and realise that they are asking way too much), or like-new quality extreme high end, new or vintage, for insane prices. Midrange is gone, imperfect/fixer-upper high-end for midrange prices is gone, niche parts (that are not cranked to absolute bejesus) are gone, there's a big jump between BSO garbage and fred sled paraphernelia, and also dwindling variety. Case in point, something as simple as turn of the century cantilever brakes are impossible to find now, used to have to filter these out because cheap ones were everywhere and none of my bikes had a need for 'em, but now I need a pair to remain period correct on my new build and there's a single hit for any cantis in my entire city, for 80 fucking bucks. They are super nice, all shiny and chrome and polished, and for someone looking for that probably worth the price, but they are also way too nice for what I'm building, which is a humble 90s mostly Shimano-equipped touring bike. Also need an inch quill stem that goes up instead of down, but those seem to also have ceased to exist, only shoulders down ass up fixiebait shit can be found. 36-spoke hubs are all gone too, for that matter, modern 32-hole ones (vast majority of them for dick brakes) flood the listings, I've given up and ordered a new chink Shufeng, it looks inconspicuous enough.
>>1997317I recommend looking at complete used bikes for parts.Ebay has some decent prices for vintage mtb quill stems. I do plan on hitting the bike kitchen/co ops and bike shows.I have gotten decent prices for parts locally, but I look frequently.It's 2024, people are hurting but bikes are still cheap
>>1997318>I recommend looking at complete used bikesThat's how I ended up with the touring frame I'm building up in the first place. This kind of cyclical part trading won't get me anywhere.
>>1997319If you only need 1 or 2 parts then yes, new or ebay is sometimes your only option. It's 2024 and dick brakes is all that's being produced anymore thus rim brake parts of any kind will be dwindling. Eventually the parts will go the way of downtube shifters where only a couple brands make new stuff.Modern chinese stuff seems decent enough.
