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If you live in the US, this chart is your best place to start looking. International posters outside the US may have region specific options not shown here!
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Need a VIN checked? Search the catalog (https://boards.4chan.org/o/catalog) for an existing VIN check thread before making your own.

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Lets be honest here. Most fans of manual are Car-less JDM fags who think that driving manual is like Fast and the Furious or Initial D
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or people from the UK because most cars in the UK are manual
>My manual will increase the life of the components
>By keeping the engine at a higher rpm than an auto due to less gears
>Transmission detaches itself from engine every gear instead of using a torque converter
Keep dreaming boomer
Challenger is the slowest NA V8 from America, what are you on about?
It is the only relevant thing in the real world. And fuel economy.
idk about "most" but I enjoy having another thing to master instead of just having 2 pedals
rev matching for example, pure sex when you get it right and a fun little minigame

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Greetings /o/, it is currently the Rainy Season or Wet Season in where I'm living at. Meaning heavy rains, monsoons, possible typhoons and storms basically. So /o/, what vehicles are great when driving in the heavy or stormy rains? I'd take it offroad/all-terrain vehicles like jeeps or those modified beefed up pickup trucks are great to drive in the heavy rains, slippery roads and can drive through floods.

So what other vehicles asides from the all-terrain and offroad ones are good at dealing with driving in the stormy rains?
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>Most tropical shitholes have 4wd vehicles for sale that are sealed and have high exhausts and the like for flood conditions.

This is false

t. Tropical shithole dweller
I meant the tropical shitholes with large populations - the phillippines, Indonesia, Thailand, etc.
You're probably replying to a Sudaca.
South America is lousy with those kinds of vehicles though

You mean those ones where the large majority of the population are either on foot, on motorcycle or in a 2wd Maruti swift?

Duster, the best budget car
the best budget car is a 2007 Honda Jazz

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Are you a safe driver?
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>GTR driver
>massive jobber
what a shock
I assume it's a manual boost controller
I never watched past the first episode because the anime is boring as fuck.
I try.

For some reason, answering "yes" makes me feel like a narcissist.
RIP Giorgi
I'm very safe and predictable in traffic, always trying to make everything as smooth as possible for everyone. But when i drive around the road i know and it's empty, may god help us all.

Would you become a homosexual if it was illegal for people who aren't gay to own and drive cars?
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I'd happier to take a dick than driving that abomination
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>this thread is still going because retards are so easy to bait
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Why the fuck is faggotry pushed so much on this board?
I can identify as anything they want, it's not like I fuck anything.
Culture of Miata

My boomer parents go through cars every 4 years. They have 3 that are staggered such that there is a new car almost every year. Is this a smart idea? All cars are used, usually 3-5 years old

example: 3 year old car1 bought year1. payments for 4 years. 4year old car2 bought year2 payments 4 years. 4 year old car3 bought year3 payments 4 years. the 4th year, they dont buy anything. the 5th year they trade in car1 and buy another used car for 4 years.

am i retarded or is this really fuckin dumb?
Yeah and? I usually do that. 2 cars at a time that are never older than 3 years.
Owning a car for personal transportation is a waste of money however you put it. It just comes down to how much money are you willing to burn to get what you want.
If they are turning them before they depreciate more, then it might make sense depending on what they buy, and the local market.

There are a few “sweet spots” in the age/value/depreciation curve where you can minimize losses. Usually it’s in buying a used off lease car that is 1-2 years old, and driving it to about 2-3 more years to about 100k miles. Then dirching it. Most people still have a mental block about 100k miles. And given the way that our disposable society treats cars, it’s probavbly not a bad idea.

Of course this always depends on what they are buying, mileage, product cycles, etc.
ersonally I’d hold onto good cars more than that. But get out of anything costing the, time/money.

a quick peek into the delusional mind of a cyclist :^)
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>Ugh you just don't get it at all do you cagey? We HAVE to use the road! It's ILLEGAL for us to use the sidewalk, not to mention IT'S DANGEROUS for the pedestrians we might hit!
The US is the only place anyone is talking about in these threads anon, keep your mindset in the US where everyone driving a car is a homicidal maniac and everyone on a bicycle is an asshat on the road holding up traffic
In our great Europeland bicycle lanes are actually separated from the road by trees/grass and are always paved and sometimes even with higher quality tarmac than the actual road.
Cyclists who refuse to use them should be shot.

Also these bicycle lanes usually cost about the same as a single lane road per km.
>In our great Europeland bicycle lanes are actually separated from the road by trees/grass and are always paved and sometimes even with higher quality tarmac than the actual road.
I wish we had this also, here cyclists just do whatever they want ("lmao look at me slaloming through lanes during rush hour and then running over this group of pedestrians").
cyclists here are allowed to use the road if the bike lane is obstructed or otherwise shit
Cyclists dying fills my heart with joy.

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Soon to buy a E46, post 2002 redesign. Probably 320D (150hp).

Most of them have somewhat big milage (200-300k km) but a lot of them are well preserved.

Anyone here had some of these?
Also, should I go for cloth or leather seats?
Should I look for the stick or the auto transmissions?
Any experience is most welcome!
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I have 330d.

All the seats are comfy, whether standard or recaro. Leather looks a lot better, but cloth recaro is god tier. Auto can sometimes shit itself, but that’s because when they were new no one serviced the gearboxes. Make sure to go for a facelift car, those are more sorted out. And the factory sound systems don’t sound very good. Any aftermarket player is a huge upgrade over the stock, which I highly recommend.
i had the optional Hi-fi audio (not Harman Kardon) on my 1999 328ci and the sound was awesome, didn’t even need a subwoofer.
The stock audio on my 2003 325i was shit though.
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I've owned a 2002 e46 (after the redesign like you want) for 6 long years. Total piece of shit. I know everything about these cars and what goes wrong with them.

Ask me anything

Also I'm not so sure they make bimmer's with cloth seats buddy. And don't get an automatic. BMW lied to the fucking retards who bought these cars and said the tranny fluid was for a lifetime... and took out the disptick so you couldn't call those filthy fucking krauts out on their bullshit. I've gotten the tranny fluid changed in mine twice (when i got it and just the other week now that the mileage is high to check its healthy luckily all green). A shop is gonna rip you the fuck off and want like 400 for this shit. It should be 100. That's what i charged for my fluid and fliter for my tranny.

FIND A GOOD SHADETREE MECHANIC. Unless you know how to rly work on cars. And I mean really work on them, you'll need one sooner rather than later. The e46 is definitely able to be worked on yourself, but you're guaranteed something complicated.

The XI's are just to damn heavy and tear their own guts out. Avoid all of them.

If you're light control module goes out DO NOT PAY SOMONE TO REPLACE IT. That goes for if your parking brake brakes off and fucks up your back rotors too. Someone ripped me off when I first got this car doing those two services. Both of those things are recalled items and free. The light module is expensive too.

If you don't have a service center near you alternatively you can just alcohol bath the old light controle module. A friend who worked on cars did for me for a bit until I got the recall squared away.

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I agree that you should replace trans fluid but I’ve seen a 980.000km E39 5 series still running strong with the ORIGINAL trans fluid (GM box)
Also BMW's are shiny bobbles made of cheap plastic and rubber. That's the ultimate red pill.

Tell me why I shouldn’t buy an Audi s4 b7 besides the timing chain guide issue/rebuild it’ll need
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That does make more sense. Still not as retarded as electric car manufacturers who make their cars FWD when there is literally no engineering reason to do so
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>no engineering reason to make it FWD
The man bun wearing faggots who buy these cars can't handle RWD because it will spin the fuck out.

Euro mechanic here
Everything is an engine out procedure and everything throws codes constantly. VCDS is a must for any VAG product or you're sunk.
Lawsuit moneys
It doesn’t seem like everything is an engine out procedure, just the water pump/timing chain guide and tensioner
I do see that dropping the bumper is common on a lot of jobs
What’s VCDS
just get any inline 6 bmw you moron

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I want to by a cheap V8 SUV and found the Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2 V8's, i love the boxy look but i don't know if they are any good.

Can you tell me if it's worth buying one?
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What about it?
Well shit, so they also have the Blazer problem.
Is the 4.0 straight 6 so good, that everybody recomends it?
I only would want to buy the V8 because of the sound to be honest, but a straight 6 can also sound nice.
>muh horsepowers

It's an SUV for family transport not a friggin supercar m8. Torque was undoubtedly the aim when they designed it, not horsepower, and 300lb-ft is enough for daily use.

I certainly wouldn't want the I6 model over the V8 it only has 190hp and 225lb-ft of torque.

None of those jeep engines sound particularly "nice". The reason every suggests the 4.0L is the v8s are huge gas hogs and make only slightly more power. The v8 reliability is acceptable, the 4.0L is known to be long lived and robust.
>make only slightly more power

4L I6
>190hp, 225lb-ft
5.2L V8
>225hp, 300lb-ft

35hp and 75lb-ft more torque that's like 30% more torque and 20% more power

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Hey /o/, I want to buy my first car, and I found a 2008 Citroen C2 VTS for 2500€, only one owner, 160000km, new clutch, shock absorbers, brakes, timing belt.
Overall, it seems like a fun car, it has the same engine as the Saxo VTS.
Do you think it's worth it? I just want something with that's fun to daily but that I can also take on some winding mountain and country roads.
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>it has the same engine as the Saxo VTS.
but is much heavier

It's a slow shitbox
my diesel is faster lol
reply to myself to add I got it for around your price mark. So expect it to be driven into the ground.
New clutch is nice but also necessary if prev owner drove it 'sporty'
Get a 2000 and something Saxo VTS instead.
C2 is crap
No Saxo VTS on sale here.
Hm, ok, hope the C2 VTS doesn't have as many issues.
Saxo VTS isn't an option, but I've seen the C2 VTS compared to a Mk5 Fiesta ST, so I wouldn't say it's slow.
Same price range?
Why is it crap?

Don't forget, I just want something fun, I'm not going to track it or anything like that. 0-60 in 8.3 sec is fast enough for me, I've only driven cars with 13-14 sec.

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Seriously though working on cars is 99% battle and 1% actual mechanical work, surely there's a better way
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*except for subaru
Literally the worst part about being into cars. This would be the best hobby by miles if you didn't have to deal with tricky bolts and rusted shit. I'll always work on my car for a month or two, get burnt out, then do nothing but basic maintenance for the rest of the year
>Cruise control ded
>Shop manual says "this shit is too complicated for you, take it to a mechanic before you break it"


i work as a mechanic.

yesterday I had to sledgehammer/air hammer out a front hub, replace a rusted out brake line, snapped off a bleeder screw because the steel and aluminum were galvanically fused, leading to replacing both rear calipers. All on a 2000 Silverado 1500.

I've also got two burns on my right hand from a Chevy Traverse because one of the A/C fittings to charge the system is down next to the compressor, right next to the catalytic converter and the oil filter.
tfw my inline 6 powered 5 series is super easy to work on because the bay is designed to accomodate a V10

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I would buy this if it was sold.
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>those fucking wheels
do want
That would actually look pretty cool if it weren't for those fucking wheels
Oh god, the tyres HAD TO BE PUT IN THE WRONG WAY, YES?

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this is when cars and rallying died. Nothign will ever beat 80's cars, nothing will ever replace them.
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Motorsport is one of the few sports (if not the only one) where cheating is regarded as a normal part of the competition. Everybody is trying to find loopholes in the rules, everybody tries to get an edge over the others by means other than pure driving skill and good setups, which is why you rarely see people raging when someone is caught cheating, unlike other sports.

Cheating always happened and it's still happening, it's just that teams get better at not being caught. It's not a group B exclusive
>It's not a group B exclusive
I know. I didn't even mean Group B here, I was talking about older rally in general. Mostly about shit like Toyota did with Celica in the 90s.

I feel like rules are so ridiculously strict these days that you have cars that are very similar and there's very little room for cheating.
Can-Am was the objective peak of track racing
I read an article a few weeks ago (I'm trying to find it but I can't remember the name of the magazine) about banned projects on LMP1s, basically there are two layers of cheating.
First there is the "I'just pretend I'm not cheating" level, where you have to actually submit to the ACO the kind of modification you want to do on the car and they have to accept it, so you have to really hide your cheating, and then there is the "fuck the rules" level where you just cheat and hope they don't find you when the car is scrutineered.

So, the article talked about these failed submissions and there was this really cool one where they (I think Audi) wanted to integrate air intakes in the rear wheel arches, with ducting going up through the wing pylons and inside the wing itself, with an opening spanning the whole wing. The point of this was to open and close this intake on demand, and the airflow venting out of the wing would stall it and dramatically change the amount of drag and lift it produced. It was basically a DRS in disguise, trying to use who knows what loophole in the rules.

So yeah..they try as hard as they can to bend the rules, even today

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