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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Old thread >>1127298

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute.

>general info
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide

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Jan Ciger (@janoc200) says:
February 21, 2017 at 10:21 am

I think this is a rather strange question to ask.

Let me illustrate and ask a different but similar set of questions: “Are CNC mills ready for prime time?” “Is it possible for an average consumer to save money with a CNC mill?” “Are CNC mills easy to use if you are technologically illiterate?”

The answers would most likely be – “Yes”, “No” and again “No” for obvious reasons. Yes, because these machines are used for decades to produce everyday goods and no and no, because an average consumer doesn’t have neither the need nor skills to sensibly operate one.

Then why are we insisting on 3D printers being something for an average, technically illiterate consumer? It is exactly the same kind of machine and technology as a CNC mill or lathe. It is a *machine tool*, not an office appliance, despite all the associations, marketing and confusion that comes with the word “printer”.

This stupid mantra that somehow 3D printing is “not ready for prime time” until everyone can have one at home and even a grandma can operate it is artificially fabricated nonsense thanks to marketing BS of 3D printer vendors trying to convince people that 3D printer is the next hot thing and they have to buy now, not because it makes any sense. And journalists that parroted press releases and created echo chambers amplifying each others’ hype. Same as what the TV manufacturers tried it with 3D televisions or now virtual reality.

Let’s put away this nonsense about “average consumer” and look at hobbyists or machine shops – and you will find that the answers change drastically – 3D printers are both used already, we don’t need to be actually told when they are supposedly going to be “ready for prime time”. You can save money using them (it just requires a bit of brain and not printing Yodas) and they are relatively easy and safe to use (compared to other types of CNC machines). That applies even to the mass-market cheap $300 ones – if you adjust your expectations to the actual capabilities of what you have bought, of course.

Can we put this nonsense finally to rest, please?

BTW, yes, I do own a 3D printer and know about several other people around having one. But we are actually building things with them, not printing kitchen hooks and doorstops with them that you can buy for $1 in a supermarket.
You could have posted the source.
Tiko is basically official dead finally

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For some reason, I've been wanting to make my own graphing calculator as my TI 84 is starting to slow down and become a potato. Any tips?
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Making how? Like putting the internals of an 89 in an 83 case?
Reformat it's hard drive.
>1mb flash
Put a 512 gb pcie ssd in it.
>128 k of ram
Put 16 gigs of ram in it.
Install Gentoo
So you want to make one like take it apart and then put it back together or get the CPU, ram, screen, and put in the graphing software if so just buy a new one
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>slow down and become a potato
its probably because of all the grease and soda you got inbetween the keys you disgusting pig

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>I'm new to electronics, where do I get started?
There are several good books and YouTube channels that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more, many with advanced techniques. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty.

>What books are there?

Getting Started in Electronics Forrest Mims III
Make: Electronics Charles Platt
How to Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic Michael Jay Greier

All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide: Kybett, Boysen
Practical Electronics for Inventors: Paul Scherz and Simon Monk

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I'm playing around with the peltier from one of these, but its only acting like a 5w.
I was wondering what sort of strife I'd get in if I hooked it up to 12v instead of 5?
I'm really trying to get this thing to freeze, keeping the hot side cooled constantly.
peltiers are resistive, their voltage limit is governed by their maximum power dissipation (they're 50% efficient at best). yours can probably handle more than what it's pulling from usb though.

i've already looked at fast cooling drinks and you'll need better thermal coupling than one of those shitty boxes offers anyway.
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If I input 19v into a car charger (steps down 12-24v to 5v) would it be fine?
Would it still output 5v?
You just said it steps 12-24v to 5v.

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Tools Thread
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Same in the UK, more or less

We have sparkies, carpenters, the tile guy, the plumber, carpenter I know down here does the stud wall frames, drills holes for sparkles to wire, doors, kitchens, cupboards, puts up the plasterboard, we have one guy to plaster, who does just that. Plumber just plumbs, tiler just tiles, elect just does wires, oh and the brickie, he just slams down solid lines,
I'm buying a used bench grinder today. Is there anything I need to know so that I don't kill myself using it?
Best tip: read the entire manual. You can get it online if the previous owner is so shitty they didn't save it.
I found a copy of it already while I was trying to figure out the arbor diameter. It's only 7 pages long but there were still a few safety things I didn't know, like letting it run for a minute before using
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Images are fixed so these are what I meant.

I have the 9-1/2”, 17 tpi & 9 tpi double saw, the 10-5/8”, 19 tpi super finecut backsaw and the 6-1/2", 26 tpi dowell/dovetail/detail saw. (Middle, second from the right, far left)

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I am currently working in a silkscreen room, and am having issues with these parts, they are powder coated, so you get ones shot. Any thing will help.
Also answering questions about silkscreen out metal photo.
Is there a question in there or is this just a statement?
Just in need of help. I can't get them to come out clean, they either have part of the border missing, or ink will bless through around the logo.
Wipe it off with a cloth 'dampened' in a compatible cleaning solvent/solution just before printing.

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Stupid Questions General

Google first, ask later.
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Then you should probably be fine. If you want to be extra sure just turn off your network connection before running it.
k yolo thanks.
is it possible to paint over chrome?
if so, how?
plastidip works fine
Mortise lock set, can get spendy. measure the depth and hit the thrift stores or an old school locksmith. Only other option is to fill the holes and install a standard lock set for $30

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How do you guys clean further and rust? I'm cleaning an old pickaxe I got from my dad a while back. It was pure brown when I got it and I'm still having troubles getting in between. Have any tips?
soak in citric acid solution, or cocacola
Brake cleaner..
>>1134956 Thanks, had a few mixed responses from friends so I'll stick with that. Thanks.
Just use it often

I am in the process of buying parts in-order to make a vacuum chamber. I want to degas silicon for mold making.
I appreciate any advice.

>Anyone here have a recommended brand of pressure gauge? Winters, Wika, ect.
>Should I purchase a Brass Mini Ball Valve, or a plastic alternative?
>What thickness should the Polycarbonate or Acrylic lid be?
Personally I think I should get Polycarbonate. and i'm thinking 3/4in'

The process I have in mind in-order to make the chamber is practically the same as in this video.

Currently I have a 10x11in' stock-pot as the chamber; its not going to cave-in from the pressure,
and my vacuum pump 4CFM.
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Are you trolling?

0.999 atmospheric pressure vs. 0.9999 atmospheric pressure isn't going to be the difference between the plastic breaking or not.

The added structural weakness from an extra hole for a pressure gauge would be more likely to cause it to break.
When I do make the chamber, ill make an update thread, assuming that this one gets deleted before then
That will never happen though, so he doesn't need one.
>material failure rarely happens, so it's safe to assume it NEVER happens, and standard safety protocol can be ignored for the sake of convenience.

Okay, guys.

It doesn't provide any safety in a vacuum chamber. If it's going to fail it's going to fail, the gauge won't give you any warning.

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How do you guys store sensitive electronic things such as alightbulbs?

I got a bunch for my various vehicles and was wondering how you guys safely store them?

I replaced a bunch of bulbs for led's and I'd like to keep the old working bulbs as backups in the vehicle, but I'm worried the small little tackle/part organize boxes might cause the filaments to break and not properly protect them.

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you should see how we keep them in the parts warehouse

and then you should see how we keep them at the auto shop before they go in your car

ive seen the drop in LED replacements vibrate to pieces before the filament one burnt out on the other side

just keep your greasy fingers off the glass
Itt: 1 eyed checy trucks.

When you said "sensitive electronic things" I was thinking more along the line of...you know...ACTUAL sensitive electronic things.

For reference, the last batch of microcontrollers I got:

Came on purpose-made SMD trays.
With dessicant packets.
In a vacuum-sealed, static-dissipative bag.
Wrapped in packing foam in a fitted box.

But just light bulbs? Keep them from clanking around and don't get oil/grease/sweaty cheeto fingers on the glass. Stuffing them in a box with packing peanuts would work, so long as it's packed enough that they can't jostle around freely.
Just wrap them in tissue or bubble wrap and make sure they don't clang around when moving. They'll be subjected to no worst conditions than any other bulb already installed in your car.
I try to keep them in the package they came in. Usually hanging in the garage or in my part/tool bag in the back of the Jeep. For loose stuff I have a couple pieces of foam that fit inside a sandwich box. (one of those tupperware things) The foam keeps them from clanking around and I can cut out slots for spare fuses and stuff.

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How feasible is it to build my own castle?
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This house is signed 1923 and it's a masterwork the walls are perfectly straight and square
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Also there was a barn. I lived there three weeks last winter
thats not true at all. there is still plenty of cheap land to be had in the US.

I cant... Does this castle guy seriously think this looks good?
This. I went through his entire website and it only started looking decent like last year. That being said the pattern of cinder block he chose looks awful

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Its for a survival bunker set up and alcohol is on of the greatest disinfectants and an amazing drink. But in the long run of this i plan to make it in bulk for a shelter in the event of a civil war or something.(pic kinda relate)
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For disinfectants you should go for 70% alcohol, not 40%. Why not buy it all in bulk and store it?
alcohol comes out of my reflux still at around 80-90% purity
1 gallon water distiller on a lower setting.

I have 2 and they work great and are cheap on ebay and multipurpose.
>>how to not remove methanol: The Post

>He thinks there will be enough methanol in it to be of any danger

The only way the methanol in it would pose a threat is if OP separated it out and drank it by itself.

Distilling doesn't produce methanol, it just concentrates it with the ethanol. Alcohol poisoning is much more likely than methanol poisoning.
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m8 vodka kills your gains
Here, this is better

This gains your gains

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My first paint job! How did I do?
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This was my second suspicion down to a T.

My first was an angry kid angerposting his moms hoarded house (sorry projecting).
approximately 5
Those paiting pics no shit is better than the paint in the house i just bought

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I feel like im ggoing to have to prime the whole house before i do anything.
Can i dunk those covers in turpentine and recover them or will i just have to paint/buy new ones?

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My humidifier fan motor isn't working. Are any of you familiar with this type of motor? I found an affordable replacement, but I want to be able to test it while disconnected from the electronic controls to make sure they arent the problem and not the motor. Also, what is the small part attached to the side? Voltage regulator?
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Both taps test open. Fug.
Maybe the thermal fuse opened circuit?
Guy who replied first here, and I have to admit that I did not see 3 wires went to the motor from OP image.
So it seem this guy is correct:
According to that diagram, you should have continuity between any 2 wires leading to the motor. If you have none whatsoever, it would be a bit strange as normally not all connections or windings in coils break at once. But I won't go so far as to say that would be impossible.
Maybe switch to resistance and measure again, maybe the resistance is too high for the meter to show continuity. If resistance is infinite, well, buy a new motor and make the same measurements and compare.
Good luck.
Me again, I wanted to post this:

That is the reason why I soak the windings of the RC motors I buy or wind myself with epoxy.
>thermal fuse
many small motors like this have a thermal fuse monitoring the stator winding.

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Where do i go to get my bigass styrofoam block cut into letters?
I have my wedding coming up in a few months and i wanna make a love table like this. People rent it out for $300 a day and that's stupid expensive.
I was able to find a 8x4x3' Styrofoam block which is plenty big but i dont know who can hot wire cut this shit with good precision.
I went to a local sign business with CNC but they dont touch anything larger than 4".

Where do i go find a local hot wire cutter?
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wasn't my idea to make it out of foam. OP, did you think this through?
>should be able to hold the weight of cake and food right?
+1 for, you maybe want to reconsider your chosen material tolerances here chief. New Mrs Ops BS Tolerance may also be slightly more limited, on this one ocassion at least, than you think.
or make the letters out of faom, and decorate a 'normal' table with them, y'know, one that might support the weight of 2 people cutting a cake and shit?

This is a self-created problem anyway, y'ask me - use a normal fucking table, like normal fucking people do, FFS.
>People rent it out for $300
Altho, the ever-increasing ingenuity with which, peeps figure out yet more ways of scamming yet another few hundred out of whatever poor unfortunate uses the magic cash-till-ring word 'wedding', it never ceases to amaze.
just how much do you think a sheet of glass that thick costs?
>I was able to find a 8x4x3' Styrofoam block
Out of curiosity, how much do those blocks cost?

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