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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Sup fellow DIY masters of the universe

I have an old silver knife that just came into my collection and it's pretty worn or "tarnished". I'm no professional with silver but I'm pretty sure if I just cleaned it, it would just fade back

Is there anything I can do to keep its brilliance once polished? Could I do an epoxy coating?
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Oil, or wax. Really you are trying to keep oxygen away from the surface so it cannot react and form silver oxide, which is dark/black. Epoxy will do the trick but i wouldnt do it myself. Id wax
Take some mineral oil from your ass and put the knife in a jar of it
Renaissance wax.

used by museums to protect metal.


works on metal, wood, and leather.
Also use something without even traces of sulfur. Sulfur salts causes blacking of silver.

Peachy Printer Edition

Old thread >>980845

>open source community

>buyfag buyers guide
Any number of Reprap kits out there

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)

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I'm not sure how it works in the US. Here it was shipped via DHL and they won't release the package until the duties are paid. For me it was still a good deal (I want to say ~$12/motor all in, but it was a couple years ago and my memory fails me). I'm really fond of the motors with integrated leadscrews, but those were quite a bit more.
>I also don't like that the X and Y rod holders just hold the rods in by friction.
I didn't even notice that. I was paying more attention to those poorly designed corner brackets.

I am planing to design it myself over the summer. Right now I am thinking about buying cheap chines i3 with profiles (something like: https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/diy-kit/flsun-3d-metal-frame-prusa-i3-diy-kit). I never had any experience with that kind of printer, so I want to see if it works/ how it works. Then I can make my own design (maybe even that half box) using the same components, probably core xy with heated chamber, e3d hotend, etc.
>controller boards are $30
You can get a fucking C.H.I.P. and run some open source controllers on it for $5.
Not fucking whatsoever. I want _cheap_, and that means waiting until I get good deals on parts. I fucking deconstruct printers on the side.
It just really weirds me out that this entire thread here is based on "kits" (where the fucking parts are essentially plywood with a different finish) that are through the fucking roof. This is do-it-yourself, not let-the-marketer-tell-you-that-you-did-it-yourself.
>$200 alu frame i3
Then build a better, cheaper one, you homo, nobody's stopping you

Stupid question
I've got one of these portable ACs in my office, and the exhaust tube goes up to the ceiling
So when it's running, the tube is radiating a quite a bit of heat.
I was wondering what's the best way to insulate it
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It shouldn't.

Mind that I should have specified lithium batteries. In all practicality, there's no reason to use lead acid anymore; the only advantage is upfront cost. Lithium cells will perform better in literally every respect and still be cheaper in the long run.

But, again, it still won't be especially cheap.
Ok, I think I've made up my mind. I'm gonna save up for a few months and go with electric.
It's so your ring doesn't get lost when you take it off! :^)
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I want to build a desk in the basement. Wonder what I could do to this counter top to make the desk look very executive/receptionist looking? BTW we're remodeling the kitchen and basement so this top is a salvaged part.
How do I frame a wall under an I steel beam in the basement?

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I know little about electricity.
I have a brewing system that operates on 3 phase 208/230v. There is one heating element in the system that is 3 phase 240v. The box coming in the building says 3 phase 240v.
As I understood, the 208/230v stuff will not work as intended with a 240v supply.
What will I need to do to get this to work?
>As I understood, the 208/230v stuff will not work as intended with a 240v supply.

you understand wrong. that stuff is very forgiving. a few volts more or less wont affect anything.
This. Heating element doesn't mind.
If it were asynchronous motor, then it could do some trouble

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Hey /diy/, I spent a good chunk of last summer killing time on hamstudy, just for fun really, and got to the point I could ace the second tier practice tests all day. It got me really excited about radio in general, and today is one of the first nice days we've had outside and I regretted not having any equipment, so I ordered one of these cheap USB receivers for use with software-defined radio.

Anybody else ever play with one of these? Not expecting too much out of it, but I'd like to be able to listen to locals on a few bands, maybe pick up some satellite imaging, cw, other neat stuff like that. Tips, general discussion, etc.?
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Hi radio thread ded?
OP here, should get my receiver today or tomorrow. Will take it out and see what I can pick up if the weather holds up. Any quick and dirty software recs to just spin through a lot of frequencies with AM or something else simple?
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Hey Anon I'm looking at trying to get my hands on a radio frequency transmitter that can broad cast 11 hertz or 11 cycles per second. What would I need to be able to make this possible?
>11 cycles per second. What would I need to be able to make this possible?

lots of wire. a quarter-wave antenna would be 6 million meters long. that's 12x the distance to the sun.
What is the Woodpeeker frequency. Are you telling me the Russians had an antenna 6 million meters long during the 1960s? = _=

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I want to get into gas welding. Any anons can recommend some equipment? From what I've read good low pressure regulators are important. The options for torches and tips is a little overwhelming doe. I'm mainly wanting aluminum and steel cut & weld capabilities.
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OPs last post was >>997372
Did not pick up any bottles yet. Looks like about 200$ tax in but I needed a leaf blower yesterday so I got that instead.
You should weld with gasoline.
>fun as fuck
This is absolutely true. I'm happy for you, anon.
>heating to bend
Out of curiosity, what would you use to heat metal for bending and whatnot, if not some kind of gas rig? I guess you could go for a charcoal forge instead, but what's the non-archaic option?
IDK he's probably talking about industry, where they use presses, since like most 'welders' in this thread, he can't fucking read.

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Turn around

Delusional baby boomers and young fools
Double trips detected.
Also fuck off op.
Dose IC double trips

But Trump supporters are middle age working class whites, boomers are actually with Sanders.

How would I get my pipes to look like this?
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
lookup steel colours
you'll see
carefully use a pencil torch till desired color appears ~700 deg. F.
Or run your engine till high temp.
it happens naturally, but stock cruiser pipes are double walled, which stops the outside from getting hot enough to discolour the chrome.
Heat changes the color of the pipes. It's most pronounced if they are chromium plated or polished steel. If you are going for that look, make sure that they are not double-walled like >>998634 said.

steel blues once it reaches a certain temperature.
Here is an example of perfect cosmetic bluing of steel.

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Hey guys,

Can we have a welding thread? I just made this weld to stop a leak on a steel pipe.
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That is a terrible thing you have done. If thats a hydraulic ram, and if that is a crack you will learn why you dont do that. You shrink the honed barrel when you apply that much heat and you end up wit a bore that is no longer concentric. You best have a honing set up to fix that or you will end up seizing the piston in it.
>>999014 i forgot to quote but the other work looks great. Just not the blob weld on the hydraulic ram. I really hope you took it apart. If you didnt there is a chance for arcing between the piston and barrel and then the seal will fail.

Anyone dabble in Shortwave radios? I was thinking about picking one up, but I'm not very knowledgeable on the subject. Listening to foreign stations and number stations seems like a nice little hobby to get into. Tips or good models?
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Almost bought that exact radio. Ended up doing this >>999319 . Found out there's not a goddamn thing worth listening to without spending 100s of dollars.

Can't recommend.
Better watch out or that "ex communications" officer might actually leave his basement and come after you.
There's another thread going about radio in general, I've got a USB receiver coming in the next day or two, and one of the things I plan to do with it is attempt to pick up shortwave. Looking for SDR tuner recs to get started, will eventually just use the gnu tools once I get the hang of things.

An actual dedicated shortwave would be a fun thing to have, but they always seem overpriced to me considering what you can do for practically nothing with newer tech.
a radio like OP pic is pretty capable but you need a good external antenna to get more out of it
link to USB receiver dongle?

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I'm a newbie to computers but was thinking of building one myself. Here are all my parts. Should I change anything or am I good?

Motherboard: MSI MSI Gaming Z170A GAMING M5 LGA 1151 Intel Z170 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel

Graphics card:
MSI GeForce GTX 960 DirectX 12 GTX 960 GAMING 4G 4GB 128-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support ATX Video Card

Cpu: Intel Core i7-6700 8M Skylake Quad-Core 3.4 GHz LGA 1151 65W BX80662I76700 Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 530

Ram: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Intel Z170 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16D-16GVK

Hard drive: WD Red 3TB NAS Hard Disk Drive - 5400 RPM Class SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD30EFRX

Case: DIYPC Skyline-07-R Black SECC ATX Full Tower Gaming Computer Case with 7 x 120mm Red Fans, Hot Swap Docking, Fan Controller

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fuck off ,nigger !
I recommend getting a SSD for the OS and getting a different 3TB drive. 5400RPM is "slow" and the drive is meant to be used in a RAID config (hence the NAS designation).

But it really depends on what you will be using it for.

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I took of the CDI box from my motorcycle as I suspect it's faulty and I'm replacing it. Looked like this from the bottom. What the hell is that shit? I digged a bit into the bottom which is soft rubber and it's filled with that stuff.
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maybe a fireproofing material like vermiculite
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Since it's in an electronic I'm going to say it's granulated magic blue smoke. If you're careful you can use those granules to recharge other electronics that have lost theirs. It's quite valuable.
if you can crush it into a fine powder, maybe it is silica, and if I had to guess it might also help with humidity as the compound sets.
Anyway, that if odd as fuck and I've never seen it before. CDI boxes are units that have to be replaced rather than fixed.
Its a thermal potting compound. you can get it at electronics places. google it.
I don't think anyone is talking about the epoxy, but rather the silica looking granules embedded in it.

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As we’re well into the yard maintenance season, how about a yard equipment thread of stuff we either have or would like to have?

I have the pictured Ariens lawn mower, that I bought a couple years back ($700) to replace my 20+ year old Ariens mower that had given up the ghost and while I like the caster wheels, (pretty much mandatory IMO) they changed the drive system design over the years and I dislike the cut out in the deck for the drive belt on the new mower, which allows dust and clipping to blow out.
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Why are they removing manual chokes from lawn mowers?
Small claims is your best bet. After you win, leave a bad Yelp to rub salt in their wounds.
There is a small engine shop close to where I live ran by midgets. I shit you not, Tiny Travis & Little Larry's small engine service.
>they actually do quality work, but they are expensive.
anyone have experience with battery power weed eaters? Been thinking of getting a 40v one for my dad since he has trouble dealing with gas ones now in his old age. saw some refurbs on ebay (LST136 B&D, RY40210 ryobi, are a couple i'm seeing) but don't really know of the kind of power to expect

If he has problems starting a new weed eater then he probably will have difficulty operating one if he does anything more than edging the front lawn. If that is all he is doing then a 40v will be sufficient

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whats the best motor to power a grappling hook similar to the one in the video whats the best way to power said motor how much could motor lift. idealy while still being small enough to fit on an arm mount.https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwikgNv30vTMAhVHXD4KHXjDAV4QtwIIJDAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D4OyoWAZEcIE&usg=AFQjCNGefNTCv9YsYex5HxXckVDW2Rz60A&sig2=14cvl_PFmO8JNv0KznpmwA&bvm=bv.122852650,d.cWwhttps://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwikgNv30vTMAhVHXD4KHXjDAV4QtwIIKjAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DarbNxONg88c&usg=AFQjCNG5V58I88nKozxV7gHJHIAFmbQkfA&sig2=aDoSSZWY0LtcttzFVG4rdg&bvm=bv.122852650,d.cWw
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also would a kevlar based rope be the best rope to use or would you need something with more give
Power = force * speed.

E.g. if you want to pull a mass of 75kg at 1 m/s then force = 75kg * 9.81m/s^2 = 735.75N and thus power = 735.75W (= 0.986 HP).

Once you've found a suitable motor, you need to determine the gear ratio to get the right balance between torque and speed (a bare motor will probably have too much speed and not enough torque, so the gear ratio will be step-down).

Force = torque / pulley radius.
Speed = (RPM / 9.55) * pulley radius (the 9.55 is 60/(2*pi), converting RPM to radians/sec).

The main problem with kevlar is that it's not very durable.
so then what would be the best rope to use
Your rope should have the following features:
>At least 5mm thick (so you can grasp it in case of emergency)
>Heat and abrasion-resistant
>Maximum tensile strength equal to 15 times your bodyweight (OSHA standards for safe workloads)

I will be using 7.5mm Personal Escape Rope - nylon core, technora sheath.

So, OP - I answered some of your questions, now I have one for you.

Why are you trying to build a self-retracting grappling hook? Obviously it's cool as hell, but for what do you intend to use it?

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