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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

Hey /diy/, any of you have any good links on vectored thrust STOVL UAV?
I'm thinking of building a drone for package delivery between me and my friend. I was thinking of using pulse jet for main propulsion with thrust vectoring system (pic related) mixed with fan propeller for forward lift.
I wanna see if anyone built anything similar before i start one myself and fuck up numerous times.
Also, feel free to brainstorm/dump. Any advice is good.

And before anyone asks, no, it's not for drugs. Local postal systems are ineffective as shit, i repair electronics for him and sometimes he receives boards i repaired broken.
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They are.
>Not using mandrills
Don't try to improve what already works fine
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>Engineers were hired to make the devices for the drug cartels so they could carry more weight than those that were commercially available, it said.
>tfw working on the very same thing
Looks like I've found my market.
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OP here
ok, you talked me out of using jet propulsion.
but i still don't quit on the drone.

love your post <3

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any ideas on the volume you want to transport?
I mean you told us 2kg but the size is also important.

Also 250km is kind of far I guess. Maybe start with a smaler goal.

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Ask a watchmaker in Switzerland anything.
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Whats with the "Patek Philipe", "Rolex", "Tag Heuer" that makes them "different from other watches" as their makers claim to be?
same thing that makes a toyota different from a ford
Pretty much branding, in some cases quality, in some cases technology or complications.

Patek has a really rich history of doing extraordinarily complicated pieces, done to a level of perfection that it became the standard others were judged by. It's gone down but is still the reference prestige brand.

Rolex makes very well built watches which honestly are the best deal out there in mid range mech watches. They are innovative, and their quality control is second to none.

Tag pretty much cases up commercial commodity range movements and is a brand, nothing more.

There are thousands of watches coming out of here that cost over 50K each year. The serious collector market doesn't blink at that price. There are quite many (not sure of the exact number) watches well over 100k, and quite a few more at 200-300k. It sounds insane, and really, it is, but there's a market for exclusive shit and there are people willing to fork the cash.

It's a twisted business though. If we make a movement for a client and our cost to them to build it is 10k, they will pay the case and presentation box etc, total cost maybe 15k, and that watch will sell for 100k. Markups are huge.

But there have been plenty of behind the scene makers who decided to cash in and take the mark up themselves by becoming a brand, and it's a really tough thing to do. They often either go tits up or are bought out by a conglomerate who might keep selling the 'brand' or might just put it in cold storage for years or forever. It's good to be in the background.
why do you waste so much time on something so incredibly useless in an age of integrated circuits the size of a dimple on a golfball.
It's fun! And there are a lot of machine tools involved and I like those, and there's a lot of history in it. Working on a piece from 150 or 200 years ago that's built with a level of quality that's next to impossible to produce today is really humbling and inspiring.

I don't actually wear a watch though. I like making them, I appreciate them, but I'm not a watch fan. Thank god there are people out there (a lot of them) who are still bonkers for mechanical timepieces. Even if in 10 or 20 years the market for this stuff totally dries up (which I don't think will happen) there will still be a handful of people who want an artisanal watch and there will be less than a handful of people who can do it from start to finish, so as long as my hands and eyes still work I can earn money on it.

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I'd need to fix this rusty fender, and apparently welding it is the only legally acceptable fix in Finland. I'm sure I could do it myself, but I'm troubled by how close it is to the gas tank. Is it safe to weld something so close to it?
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Fill the tank full so there's no oxygen inside the tank.
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drive car into small garage and close the door.

idle car until it runs out of gasoline. make sure to stay in the garage to monitor for problems.

it is now safe to work.
Thanks for the tips! So, it should be safe if I fill the tank up, cover the refueling hole with tinfoil and make sure the inside of the trunk doesn't catch fire? Also, the outer appearance of the results is completely meaningless for my purposes so heat distortion doesn't matter.


This would be easy, but the law dictates that the repairs must be done by welding alone. Japanese cars have a self-supporting body, and even though I'm pretty sure I could make it sufficiently solid just by bolting metal on it, the routine inspection doesn't do compromises.
Further : a fuller tank can absorb some small amount of accidental heat - a near empty tank overheats quickly and starts to vent if you have some sort of accidental application of heat
I would have thought the original cap would be more reliable

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any electricians here? well i need advice im a first year apprentice and im considering this belt and i would like to hear some suggestions
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for us its because we do a lot of ladder work, MC, lights, Piping ect. and often switching between methods often. The guys who want to use buckets and tool totes are too slow, never have what they need on them and when you are jump back and forth this much you just need a good assortment of tools on you. The bucket guys leave their tools on the ground and then wear them selves out climbing ladders all day instead of getting work done. This is why they get fired in my line of work. It may work for other areas of this trade just not mine.
not an electrician but i use an old 64 pattern frame with a fold out canvas and quick release clips, and grids of bungee straps sewn in for tools, i find it makes it way easier to climb ladders and i don't have to hoist shit up
... Think I'ma try this. Got a milsurp store around the corner.

I've been trying my small tool bags on my climbing belt. Which a safety inspector might be pissed at randomly? Just zip tied onto the bottom where there's the spot to attach the lumbar support.
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In your example, it's not the bucket's fault but the stupidity of the workers. Personally, I prefer buckets when working from a ladder. There are hooks available that enable you to hang a bucket from a ladder. In addition to giving greater freedom of movement, it's much less tiring than wearing several pounds of tools around your waist, especially if you're standing on a ladder most of the day. On the ground, I would use buckets, see-through plastic boxes, trays, or simple bags. I could see what I have in those containers in a glance and retrieve what I need quickly.
So climb, waste time hooking to the ladder do some work, take it down , move ladder all of 3 feet and repeat the time wasting hooking... Nope. And on top of that where are you going to hook to when working next to a finished wall? Are you just going to bash into a finished.product with your bucket all the time? Good way to get a back charge and cost more money.

Old thread:
>I'm new to electronics, where do I get started?

There are several good books that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more. There are also plenty of good Youtube channels that teach about the basics as well as advanced concepts. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty. Take something apart or build something you find cool on one of the many electronics websites.

>What books are there?


Getting Started in Electronics by Forrest Mims III
Make: Electronics by Charles Platt
How to Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic by Michael Jay Greier


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Btw, if you want the battery to last longer, the easiest way would be to use more efficient LEDs and drop the current used to feed them. The modern LEDs produce much more light at the same current than the ancient ones.
I'll be over the moon if I could just get this to work. So for now, till i'm better at this, i'll go with what i have.

I could use your help in another project. You game?
I'm a regular here, but me being here or not shouldn't really matter. If not me, someone else will answer your questions.
yeah i tried that once. I got torn apart. Mostly my fault cause i had no idea what the hell i was talking about but whatever.
Not him but that's the exception here.
Your questions in this thread might get you shit due to /g/'s elitism bleeding over. I'd help you If you created a thread with basic questions.
Anons here bitch if they feel you haven't tried and are just saying "solve this problem for me". I helped anyway because it was obvious that this was for another project and the electronics was secondary.
Maybe sharing the larger goal and make it interesting would get you a better reception. Give something in return.

For example: I felt better about helping when you posted the pic. >>801838

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Old thread >>788941

>open source community

>buyfag buyers guide

>basic 3d printing FAQs

>what kind of filament do I want

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How bad is the hotend on the folgertech kits?

Is it really needed to upgrade?
How do you damp vibrations? Rubber mat under the legs?

My printer shakes so hard that it might someday selfdestruct if I forget to tighten everything before a long print.
my i3 used to slide around on my desk, to the point I was afraid it would walk itself off.
I used small pieces of toolbox drawer liner to keep it in place.

I eventually cut a piece of 1/2in MDF board to size, and then screwed rubber feet into the bottom of it.
I printed out 8 of these and screwed them to the board.

Its a lot more solid now.
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that way, not hard to design one yourself... not uploading to thingiverse, patents pending and shit...
You might also consider lowering your max acceleration and jerk settings in your firmware.

What's cheap or good lube for a bicycle's wheel bearings? I'm cleaning up a weathered bike and I flushed it out with wd-40, now I need something to jam or spray in there without taking everything apart.

Vaseline out of the question?
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sir, just scrolling the front page I saw your post. using a manufacturer's website as a means of proof does not help your case. of course they aren't going to tell you it shouldn't be used on bike chains. that means less sales.
Do you have another source besides your butt?
WD40 does make specific product for bikes, this might be what it's referring to. http://www.wd40bike.com/
It specifically says "Multi-Use Product" which is regular WD-40 and mentions the bike one as an alternative.
what'd be the difference then

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ITT: Idiot stories. Whether something you've done yourself, or watched someone else do, tell 'em here.

>Earlier today
>Nephew comes over to work on his car, since "You've got a ton of tools, uncle Anon
>I figure he's changing his radio, or replacing a headlight or something
>I'm in the garage too, tinkering with shit
>"Oh, shit"
>Turn around to find my nephew had slipped a pipe over my nice craftsman 3/8ths inch ratchet, to break a rusty bolt on one of his car tires
>Took the ratchet apart to find the ratched mechanism had been stripped
If the idiot had just asked me, I would've given him my 4' breaker bar to use, or would've gotten out my impact wrench.

The worst part is that Sears doesn't have that model or it's parts in stock anymore, since it's a 40+ year old ratchet.
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>take apart laptop
>ALWAYS have extra screws when I put it back together
First car. 15 year old POS Ford Escort 1100cc. Take engine apart for new bearings, decoke etc. Put engine back together but have assorted bolts left over.

Do 30,000 miles on that engine before chucking it and putting in a 1600cc one.
>taking apart a goped to fix it up
>start taking off bolts holding brake rotor on
>not realizing they hold a two piece wheel hub together
>35psi inner tube explodes, breaking the aluminum wheel hup, jamming my knuckle and cutting my finger open

No idea how I didn't see that coming. It just hadnt even crossed my mind until the instant it happened. All kinds of stupid shit has happened to me.
Everyone knows that feel.
>>old horizontal band saw is low on cutting fluid
>>ox genius empties it and fills with diesel
>>saw running, his back to it, saw and ox genius on fire now

this reminds me of some caveman comic where "ugg" tries to make fire and ends up lighting himself and everything other than the fireplace or some shit.

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Hey /diy/, I'm going to start learning leatherworking here soon. I've been watching/reading tutorials online, and I have friends who are willing to help as they've been doing the craft for some number of years now. I think I'm ready to start the investment required to learn (shit's expensive man), is there anything I should know before going in that isn't exactly common knowledge?

Also general leatherworking thread.
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Anyone know anything about curing or working with Moray Eel leather? A bunch of these shits are close to where I live/swim so they are expendable and assholes to other fish near me.

I wanna make wallets.
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Posted my first thing on Etsy. I am well aware that it's quite crude. Version 2.0 will have the edges bevelled, sanded and burnished.

Made my first sale so I'm gonna buy some more tools.

Hoping to get a large piece of leather to make a wallet too.
This thread is highly relevant to my interests.
If you are looking for a great place to go for supplies and knowledgeable staff look up TANDY LEATHER FACTORY. They have almost everything you could want as far as leather craft supplies. This place is like the Home Depot of Leather. The staff tend to know what they are talking about from the locations I have visited.
Maybe google salmon leather? I don´t know specifics, but fishleather is a thing.

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and I said "not happy? What? Look at this flooring it's immaculate Oh is he? Good I'll have a fucking word with him do you know how much we spent on this yet? I'm not surprised it's not finished pal, no"

not paying me? fuck off
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>Firstly you have them pay up front, or if that's not feasible you have them sign a work contract that spells out the negotiated sum in writing. If they are unhappy with the progress of the job and want to stop it midway through, then you should have written that into the contract and just charge them a cancellation fee, dig up all the work that's been done and drive off. That fee can either be flat or a %age of the overall cost, you can also have them pay for all the unused materials as well.

If you can't have them pay up front, have them pay at certain points. For example:

"You are contracting me to perform services A, B, C, and D. The total cost for these services is $1500. A payment of $500 is due prior to the start of work on A and B, and another payment of $500 is due prior to the start of work on C, and a final $500 is due prior to the start of work on D. At your discretion you may break this contract at any time prior to the completion of D, subject to a cancellation fee of $100. Due to the nature of the labor involved, there are no refunds."

That makes it clear what parts of the job cost how much, it makes sure you get paid for the work that you do, and if they want to walk away there's no confusion over the terms.

OP: Sorry to say it but if you didn't get any of this in writing then it's going to come down to litigation and your word vs. your client's word. This is what small claims court is for.

You should definitely be able to recover the cost of materials plus the time you've spent at a normal market rate. The problem is you've got to be able to reasonably show what you've spent and what time you've used on this project.

Do you keep a timesheet for yourself and/or your employees? Did you keep receipts for materials?

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This kind of payment scheme is common especially in larger projects, but there's no reason you can't use it in smaller projects. It makes you look professional and it gives clients a clear sense of what is going on and what things will cost.

For example, in custom home building this is called a "draw schedule". You don't typically give the home builder a single upfront payment, you negotiate a schedule of payments dependent on progress.


And I should also say, it's somewhat less common to get paid prior to doing work, but a payment schedule can help make sure that you don't get stiffed on the entire cost of a project.
Send a black guy and his dog in an aluminum falcon to demo the work.
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send in the bloke from the pub

fucking do em

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hey diy. I live off grid on a house with all solar. No grid tie. I am looking for a way to convert a washing machine to 12 volts. I have an old maytag wringer washer and that easy to convert, it runs on a belt and drive shaft, all mechanical internally. Maytags can run on AC, DC and even gas motors or bike power. I need to find a cheap DC motor, the few i find are very expensive. Think 3/4 horse would do it. Any idea on how i could convert more modern versions over or if they make 12 volt washing machines? 12 volt general.
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Gee, and here I thought you hated inverters so much that you wouldn't have one.
Not everything is feasible or efficient straight from dc. Like desktop computers. dc-dc desktop atx power supplies are horribly inefficient and expensive. Another example is air conditioning. They do make highly efficient 18 amp 4000 btu 12 volt AC but they cost 1500 dollars. I am trying to get everything on DC if i can.
I don't see what the issue is. They make 12v washing machines and at the distances you're talking about with the right gauge wire power losses due to low voltages shouldn't be that much of a problem. Run all of your steady use shit off 12v which is pretty much lights and refrigeration. Wire your inverter through a switch and kick it off the moment your done with it.
Chop up a battery powered circular saw. Alternatively, just wash your clothes by hand in a bucket with a plunger.
Incidentally, you do realise the pump is probably already 12v?

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I'm renting a place and want to mount my TV to a wall in my bedroom. pic related, it is said wall.

What i'm unsure of is if the wall can hold the weight, I have no stud finder and the knocks sound alike all over the wall as far as i can tell.

Any other way to find studs without starting to drill all over the wall??
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Or he could use a French Cleat.
When I hung a 32" above my bar I used the knock method to get close to where I thought a stud was and drove a finishing nail to see if I was right. Nope. Fucked around for a bit and found it. Then to make absolutely sure that my lag screws were going be exactly center I drove the finishing nail again and again moving it in 1/16" increments until I knew exactly where the sides of the stud were. It was a swing out mount so there were only two lags, one on top of the other. Solid mount.
Because studs are not 16" apart. They're 16" on center. That means you should start measuring 3/4" from the corner of the wall to the center of the next stud and so forth till you get to where you want to find a stud. It doesn't hurt to lightly mark each stud location with a pencil that can be wiped off easily later. I keep an icepick in my tool box for making sure I have the stud before I start any real damage. All my tv's are wall mounted, with electrical outlet moved to behind them.
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I mount TVs for a living.
A 32" should be quite light and so should the mount.

My fixing of choice are Snap Toggles.
They are super easy to use, VERY strong. I've hung 70" displays and heavy mounts using 16 of these bad boys.
Make sure you drill the correct sized pilot hole and if you don't have the correct sized bit then buy it, it is essential.

If you use 8 that should spread the weight evenly enough over the pine boards.

Have you looked closely to see if you can see where the nails are that fixed the cladding onto the noggins?
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Further to this...

Have you thought about mounting it from the ceiling? Unicol is the top brand for those fixings?

Pic related to frist post.

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What are cheap and easy ways to build a fire pit
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dont listen to these idiots
just dig a hole
optional put a ring of rocks you found laying around on the ground around the hole
dig a hole
bury a length of pipe or three from the outside to near the bottom of the hole if the hole is too deep for the fire to breathe in it

Depending on your area, this could be illegal. Some states allow above ground pits, but on or below ground is bad. This is the case for me, so I bought a cheap one from home depot until I can build my nice one out of fire brick.
Be sure you don't put it over underground gas lines.
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I prefer the roll-around fire "pits" that can be found at Homey Despot and such, (or a DIY washing machine drum style as mentioned) as you can move these around the backyard, positioning the fire pit better depending on the wind patterns and more importantly, preventing the area around the fire pit from becoming grassless muddy shithole, due to the grass being constantly being trampled to death from multiple feet and chairs scuffing the same spot over and over again.

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Previous thread 404'ed months ago — but, hey, it's never too late to start a new one.

As usual, we discuss glass-related stuff, and share our results.
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So apparently I was the only person signed up for the class so they cancelled it.
My gf is pissed that they "ruined" my birthday present.
They just rescheduled, but i guess theres no promise theyll get another person for that one too.
Maybe find a friend who is also interested?
how much would it cost to start making decent quality tobacco pipes?
Post a pic of your intended result, will you?
>Maybe find a friend who is also interested?
Maybe the girlfriend herself? When is her birthday due?

>decent quality
Quality in glass is about 90% skill-based (well, unless you are using some VERY wierd raw mats/equipment/technics).

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