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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Which is the strongest trade?

Plasterers get huge shoulders, glaziers get big backs, brickies get forearms, electricians are wimpy little faggots.

The strongest workers I've come across are the bench top guys. I guess moving slabs of granite around has an effect.
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maybe you guys are intrested in that german TV documentation

The last of his trade
in this vid you see an 90yo man chiseling 200pound grinding wheels out of the rock

Miserable asshole commercial western Canuckistan brickie here.

>Mud's too stiff!
Bricks don't lay well when the mortar's stiff. Joints also tend to look like shit if you're tooling too stiff of mortar, leading to shitty-looking walls, leading to angry foremen, leading to angry brickies. Besides just add more water properly, mix it so it's consistent and not full of lumps and you won't have a problem.

>Mud's too soft!
You can always add more water onto your board, but you can't pull it out. Sloppy, bricks start swimming badly, and if you are laying CMU's, you get sags or lipping or other bullshit that gets you in shit. Stop fucking up and I'll stop yelling at you.

>Brickie's are always asking me to help with shit! WHY NO DO IT THEMSELVES!?!?

The contractor's paying YOU to do the bitch-work so WE can keep making THEM money. They bid out the jobs by the area usually or the units laid. More units laid = more money for company. Every time I hop off my footplanks to help you is me not laying in dem units. When I'm not laying units, the bosses chew me out for wasting their money, and then I usually yell at you for getting me in shit for the 6th time in the shift. Why shell out money for the brickies to do the same work for the guys getting paid half as much? Besides, I'm often willing to raise planks, mix mortar and other shit if the labourers are busy, but I can't stand having to help out ungrateful fuckers who hide in the mudshack to smoke on a school site with the GC's operator bum-buddy.

Regarding their builds, I noticed by the time they hit 35-40 at the latest, they start transitioning into 1 of 3 shapes. Big fat (Not always fat-strong) guys, Skinny little mummies (Not always sinew and leather) or corpses (Due to accidents, cancer, heart attacks, stress aneurysms, or substance abuse). Got a feeling I'm gonna wind up a #2 if I don't become a #3.
This is the second awkward thing I've seen about this kid in two days. The first one was when his mom didn't he came high five thing and he did a tantrum at the end.
Huge guts from sitting on the tractor all day.

One of several brick bots.

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I want to build my own personal Rapture out of a shipping container. This seems doable if the air pressure inside is kept equalized with outside water pressure.

If it's 21 feet deep or less I shouldn't have to decompress in order to surface.

I assumed buckets of concrete for ballast initially at 100lbs each but that yielded an infeasibly high number of buckets, so I changed it to lead shot.

The weights need to be done this way so one person is physically capable of moving the lead out there by hand, adding it to the buckets bit by bit.

I plan to send fresh air down continuously via a pair of redundant oil free electric air compressors on a battery backup, with an alarm that will let me know if power is cut.

Anything I'm missing? Anything you'd add, or change?
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Well one human needs 3.0cf/minute airflow. And it will only be 20-25 feet deep so a standard electric automotive air compressor should be fine.

A pancake compressor will produce quieter/smoother air flow. Oil free, with a moisture trap.

Two of them in parallel, set up with an inline air pressure sensor so if one compressor fails the other immediately kicks in, and ups battery backup with alarm in case of outage.

Even if it all fails I would be ok for long enough to put my gear on and escape so long as there is an inline check valve so air can only come down, not back up the tubing.
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How can this shit be so easy in Minecraft but so hard irl
What about that super hydrophobic spray? Legitimately curious as to how much pressure it takes to overcome whatever the process is that keeps water off that stuff...

I'd need to do the math ... but are you sure you don't need much bigger flow to keep CO2 at acceptable levels?

I am sure. If it's enough for a diving helmet it's enough for a habitat, you'd just want to ensure good air flow using fans so that pockets of stagnant air don't build up.

You could even have a second person down, just not for long. You'd also want one of those cheapo CO2 sensors in every room to let you know if levels are getting too high.

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How do I fix this permanently without replacing the handle?

I shoved as much 2 ton epoxy into the crack as I could but I doubt it will hold for long.
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I really wouldn't have been able to take it off without fucking shit up..

The end is held on by peening the tang over the end cap. The only way of getting the wood off is either by heating the end until its red hot (and burning all the wood around it it) then prying the cap off, or by chiseling off the handles completely.
So you totally couldnt have ground off the peened bit and just taken the handle off that way. Oh wait. Thats exactly how you do that. And then you just peen it back on.
also, add oil to that shit, the reason it cracked is because it dried out too much and shrank
I would have opened the crack a bit, used wood glue, then wrapped it in that black tape thats used on baseball bats. I do that to a lot of my tools when the handles start to wear or crack.
Dont add oil now. It will pop the epoxy off.

Old thread >>1099624

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute.

>general info
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide

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Thanks guys, >>1119929 is what I was missing. I made ABS slurry with the consistency of milk roughly and applied it cold. I had trouble reapplying after the print though, basically wiping the new slurry knocked all the unused stuff away instead of re-dissolving. What's the way to do that and is it an every print type thing?

Yep, mostly use a brim, typically 15 outline wide.. Tried a raft once and it lifted. I'll try the PVA that way
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i was printing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1190787 ,
then this happened (
pic related). Any idea why? im using simplify 3d
hey /3dpg/

I seem to be over extruding on infill.

Perimeters extrude perfectly but infill seem to be too much and the hot end nozzle drags over the print and jitters around and shit.

Why would this be happening?

Perhaps it IS NOT over extruding, but that perimeters are not a multiple of the nozzle width (400microns) , so something that is say 1mm wide would end up having 1.2mm worth of plastic laid down.

If that's the case, should I tone down my extrusion width multiplier?

Pic related in slic3r.
I see. Well I mean if it's easier.
Where would be a good base guide I could find?
Someone posted last thread that Cura was telling them models were too big to fit the build platform (even if they fit before).

I just had this problem, but fixed it by reducing the skirt distance (eg.10mm down to 5mm)

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>General Information

>What is amateur radio?

>Band Plans

>Local Clubs

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Are you interested in that one for any special reason. The antenna is not tuned for any specific band so its poor compared to some others.

What language are you interested in hearing?
Found a group of 3 speaking to eachother in English like an hour ago but didn't write down where.
There are plenty of others to try.


mfw SSTV
Friend is going to retake his general test at the club I'm a part of and then they have their monthly meeting, I'll ask then. I live in Dallas so there's a lot here.

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is 20 too old to buy come an apprentice electrician? all the ones i know make a fortune
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generally being a bit older helps because people appreciate the maturity.
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This. I'm 29 and finishing my second year of welding school. Most of the younger guys straight out of high school don't take it seriously. They don't have any initiative and think that they just have to graduate with a passing grade to land a job. The older students tend to try to get the most out of their time in the shop, showing up early or staying after class, volunteering for projects, asking to learn welding related things outside of the curriculum. Instructors notice that stuff and when employers come to the school guess who's names they get.
I'm a first year sheet metal apprentice and it's on the job training with a week of school every couple of months which you go on unemployment for if you qualify. And yes, you can make good money eh doing an apprenticeship.
>Is 20 too old to....

Fuck off little kid.

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Here goes.
I've been without a steady job for the last three years.

Trough the EU Employment Agency I found a job in Germany.

I will be a boat mechanic looking after a fleet of 30 diesel engined boats. It starts in two months.
Wage is €4,000 NET per month and accommodation is provided so not bad at all.

Thing is, I have no experience or qualifications.
(I exaggerated a bit on my CV)
I know very little about boats or engines and I don't speak German either.

Should I try and wing it or just quit now?
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this will be some great content
First thing first, i dont know how the fuck and who the fuck would take you as a worker on such demanding job without taking your diplomas checked. Its imposible because im from germany. Second, you are screwed because here you have to work-work really hard, plus they will expect that you are some kind of a engeneer or self trained expert so they gave you 4k€.
Personally, thats some deeeep shit you got yourself into.
>I worked as both interior and exterior carpenter at Perini,Azimuth,Overmarine and Benetti.

Wow thats actually pretty impressive.
>2 months

OP, you better start cramming

I don't, but if I needed to I would sign up on Cruisers Forums and pop a request there in their 'Engineering & Systems' section. It's further divided into 10 other subsections, the 'Engines & Propulsions' section being the best bet.

I just did a quick search for manuals and it comes up with some for Yanmar, Perkins, Volvo-Penta, & Ford Lehman. "2.4" didn't bring me any results but then my Google-fu is pretty weak.

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Ok, if we look at a basic Linear Time-Invariant Open Loop transfert function H(s) in the frequency domain. Then the poles are the values for s for which H(s) is infinite, right?

So if H(s) is infinite than the time domain output for t->infinity is also infinite too right? (If not, why not?)

But how is that possible? If f.e. s = -3+2i. Then the the output should die out!

In other words, what is the meaning in the time domain of a pole in the frequency domain??

(pic unrelated)
wrong board m8
This is more /sci/ than /diy/ I would say, but whatever. Poles are points in the complex plane Which are the zeroes of the denominator of H(s). H(S) is not defined a these points, but I guess you could say that H(s) is infinite if evaluated at a pole.
The time and freq domains are linked by the Laplace transform, and what matters is the position of the poles (poles with positive real parts make a system divergent in the time domain).
Look up some control systems theory on wikipedia or ask /sci/ to give you some reference material to get a better understanding
I think you lack basic theoretical knowledge that some 4chan posts won't be able to explain to you
Watch the youtube lectures by brian douglas on control systems, from his first video until his last. Trust me, it is the best thing you will do in control engineering. He will tell you the answer to your question as well, next to things you might not have known.
Just search for "Brian Douglas" or "Control System Lectures" on youtube and you will find him.
I think this applies perfectly well on /diy/ as long as it is for a do it yourself project. Of course seeing from the way the question is asked, it is more appropriate for /sci/, but then again, have you seen it recently? Horrible board and degraded very badly in the last 2 years.
Also, I like to see something with at least a bit of substance on /diy/ once in a while instead of the endless 'should i buy x tools' threads.
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Dogs chewed up a corner of my carpet and wondering how about a I should patch this
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You cant pathc the corner and make it look good youre going to have to recover the whole tred
Carpet is cheap and OP clearly rents. Landlords use the cheapest shit they can find.
nothing saiys he rents. maybe a he live sin detroit and cant pay for a nieco ojouse
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I dare to disagree... To make it look nice you gotta remove the damaged area completely (remove all the stuff on the stair after the red line) then cut a piece of matching carpet out with the shape and size of the diagram. After that, stick it on without gluing and try and line everything up straight and cut the excess, then when everything looks good hot glue that bitch on and no one will know. Hardest part is getting carpet that matches, But you can grab a piece from a closet and take it to home depot to compare...
As for any discolorations caused by the new carpet next to the old one, spill some slightly brewed tea and before it dries mop it up with a towel and it'll kinda even out the color. rinse and repeat till desired effect has been achieved.

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Who runs their own business on here? Freelancers are welcome.

Let's hear--tell us what you do and generally how much you make in profit a year. DON'T BE SHY.
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>selling European antique furniture in China
Sounds like a great business idea with lots of growth potential.
If you're looking for another partner with business experience, I'm interested. Doesn't have to be equal.

I know this is unsolicited advice based your nothing but your post but I'm giving it anyway.

You need to start thinking about expanding operations on the European side.
Doing everything yourself may seem like its saving you money, but in reality its keeping you from directing your business.
Soon you will hit a plateau with the amount of things you can do yourself, and you will neglect managing the business, because seemingly urgent physical labor tasks will take priority.

Meanwhile the Chinese side is seeing growth and waiting for you to step up.
If you lag behind, whats stopping them from dissolving the partnership and finding someone else?

Every moment you're driving the truck or cleaning a piece, or is one that could be spent on expanding your business.

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For even 1000 if you are not rushing and doing your research well. Also possessing haggle skills save tons of money when buying from a private party.

Sadly people are so egoistic in general they pour tons of hard earned cash into means of transportation "because it looks great".
I own a tabletop gaming shop(card games like Magic, board games, miniatures, etc). I only clear about $10,000 a year after taxes because I pay my employees too well, but it's more about having something to do with my time that I enjoy than it is about making a living since I live on my investment income.
What state
I like people like you
no homo

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Since the water meter is in the way, i'd like to make use of the rest of the void useless pspace left by. I have a twin bed, so i'd like to make a bed extension of sorts from the corner to the frame of the water meter.(ik it looks like shit , but it works for rn.) So i'm making a frame rn, i'm wondering how would i best layer material on top basically match the feel of a matress? Is the only way a matress section cut out for that size? Will be posting pics of updates to come, im open to opinionms on what i should do with the space. I was thinking i'll have a shelf 2-3 feet over, it'll make some shelf space + nice and cozy to be under something, maybe add lights and other features.
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Nice eyes M8.
I second the "is that a banana?"
I've seen this in California where folks build and rent out ghetto shelters on the back porch.
That and some places in Russia.
It is, at best, half a banana.
Which reminds me of the old house inspection joke: 'Whats the only thing worse than finding a missing housepet in the water tank?'
>Finding half of a missing housepet in the watertank..
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It was originally a bungalo. No, the meter is read through an ethernet cable.

thx m8 : )

Yes it is thx, was lookin for my breakfast all day!

NYC here

Water tank? You mean the water heater? Or the toilet tank? I don't see how you could lose a pet in either. Unless you seriously live some place where you have to get the water trucked in and pumped into a tank. The fucking ghettos in Iraq did that when I was deployed over there. Then again, their waste water evacuation consisted of open top ditches running down the side of the street and garbage disposal was just dumping it on the one block of land everyone agreed was the dump and setting it on fire. Did you know that human sewage water is black but if you dump enough of it on a stretch of land it turns it white? The things you learn in the Army.

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Well, the heavy rains here in Northern California have destroyed my dome. Any ideas on what I should build next? Should I just rebuild the dome?
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fuck you
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Good night everybody. My dinner.
boiled chicken is shit
All chicken is shit. Plain chicken is the most tasteless, unappetizing meat. You have to season and prepare it to make it taste good. Pork, on the other hand, is delicious no matter what. Who needs to put anything on bacon to make it taste good? Ham? Throw it in the oven and then slice it up. You can eat it for a week and not get tired of it. You are tired of eating plain chicken two bites in.

I think we just eat chickens out of spite. They are the dumbest most unpleasant animals on the farm and their shit is the most foul smelling. Which, by the way, is why we use the term 'foul' to mean something awful. Chickens.
>You have to season and prepare it to make it taste good.

That's _why_ it's so useful. It goes well with ANYTHING, because the only real flavor it adds is the most generic possible "meat" flavor. You can do more with chicken than any other meat.

Unfortunately, society hasn't figured out the same applies to turkey. Traditional thanksgiving dinner, frankly, sucks. Bland, flavorless turkey with mashed potatoes. Quality of the meal is almost entirely dependent on the quality of the gravy, half the time.

Pork is mediocre as fuck. Bacon aside, of course.

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How difficult and expensive would it be to build and old style library?
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General contractor detected
Strangely no. They've been bare save for whatever they came treated with in the factory

On other wooden stuff I use Danish oil or teak oil or something but desu the pine stuff was always considered cheap and not worth the effort. Funny how the stuff we considered disposable lasted the longest
I'm not the guy u were responding to, but it sounds like he was arguing that pine wouldn't be appropriate for OP's old-school library look. I can't imagine all the knots in the furniture would look good at all even if it was structurally sound.
Fuck off autistic whore
Some people like it. It is a different look, though. More rustic and less 'old world'.

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When I stain leather, it keeps cracking when it bends. Am I missing an important step or something? Kinda new to this
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Want to make a simple wallet and figured i would only need tools for 50€, maybe even less.
Needles, proper thread and pricking irons. I pretty much have everything else i might need.
The hardest part is to find the right leather type. Any tips?
There is a place called birdsall leather in sydney they might have it. Also try tandy

Depends what you want to make. Anything in 2-3oz would be good for a wallet. A variety leather can be used. Oil tanned, vegetable tanned, some chrome tanned is better than others. Kangaroo, cowhide, calfskin, bison, horse, etc.
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I hear the singer model 201k is the prime antique machine for sewing leather. My local thrift shop has one for $175. I have been thinking about picking it up. Does anyone have experience with these machines and if so are spare parts still available?
>My local thrift shop has one for $175
Sure you don't mean antique store? 'Cause that sure as hell ain't thrift store prices. My local Goodwell and ARC Store sell lose machines for $15-$25 and ones in full cabinets for $50-$100. I've sine 201s on CL for half that price.

>are spare parts still available?
You shouldn't need any unless it is missing parts. If its missing parts than $175 is an amount that only a fool would pay. Hell, half that would still be foolish.

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