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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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I have a long-term goal of building the ultimate camper van, and I keep coming back to the pop-top/roof rack dilemma. Obviously if you have a pop top, you can't use a roof rack with the pop top expanded. Now I would want to keep a canoe up there, possibly a bike or some extra storage or a solar shower but I also want a pop top for the extra bed and head room. It would be a pain in the ass to have to take all that off the top every time I got to a camp site.

I was wondering therefore if there was a way to make a pop top structurally capable of supporting the weight of a canoe and some junk. Could you maybe attach sturdy pneumatic cylinders or something to the car's pillars and have that lift the pop top and rack? Or maybe some sort of screw drive system?

Pic related, I was thinking about using an imported Mitsubishi Delica because I want a 4x4 and there's pretty much only the Astro/safari and the Delica in that category and Delicas seem better from what I've heard.

Any suggestions for how to make this work?
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Watch out for the delica engine, it's prone to issues and most die before they reach high mileage. Anecdotal, but it put me off them.

For the rack problem how about a glaziers side rack? Or if you can find one that can be folded over the side of the van when parked up.

Easiest option though is to just stick the shit you were gonna put on the roof, inside on the bed when traveling. It's dead space when your not in there anyway.
>just stick the shit you were gonna put on the roof, inside on the bed when traveling
...but anon, when OP is traveling he could just have things on the rack. Not like he's gonna be rolling around with the top popped. You have solved nothing.
Thanks for the idea anon. The roof rack just got 5 feet taller!

Maybe build the rack such that it bolts on top of a rack wider than the pop-top. Then can unload and remove for pop top acess.

I am far too lazy for that. Looks like 4 motorized trailer jacks it is...
Be a lot cheaper to get a 4x4 pickup if u going to campsites. Make a van trailer for cheap/free
Build it on tracks! Make a bracket to pin it on at all 4 corners. Reach campsite. Unpin topper and pin on u or square frame with track sides. Use a rope and give it a shove.

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I seem to have an issue with cutting wood.
A few questions.
Is a tape measure shit? I've read that if you don't keep it perfectly protected it goes to shit and won't measure properly.
I have trouble taking into account the blade thickness when cutting wood. Is there an easy way to do this or do you just cut a scrap and measure?
Also, no matter how slow or careful I go the wood never cuts absolutely straight. I can never take a 90 degree and have it perfectly straight so then I trim it up and loose some length.
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Looks like Paul Sellers!
Okay I understand you better.
Many chop saws also have a bevel adjust near the hinge.
If your saw has that, there should be a handle you twist to loosen that up and lets you change the bevel angle.
Play with that until it's square as you like.
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pretty much the exact same thing
ahhh ok I understand now. I'll take a look later. I know it does have a bunch of allen screws that look like they could adjust something
to add to this, you can check squareness by bringing the saw down and using a precision steel square. I got an inexpensive one just for this purpose.
I do have a goos square that I can use

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Old thread >>1364963

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute

>general info
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community

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>he bed is shorted somewhere.
The bed is a short, dummy

Ultimaker seems to be moving completely away from the hobby market.

Hmm it's very crisp yet very pixelated/voxelated looking, what resolution is the LCD on this printer?
i think that if he printed that on it's side rather than vertical, it made the layer lines more noticeable
the bed is a big resistor of thin tracing or wire and should still have a resistance.

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post some of your work
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stainless mig
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aluminum tig, thin wall tubing
nice! whats that brown crap on the ropes?
YouTube is an amazing resource for welding. Not all that hard to get competent enough to do repairs and such but don’t expect to be making those beautiful beads any time soon. Hardest part of learning on your own is not having someone around that can tell you what you’re doing wrong but again youtube is a great resource.

Save up and buy a decent machine and aim for at least 200amp. Everlast makes nice inverter stick welders and TIG welders. Miller or Hobart for MIG. If you want an all in one machine look at the Lincoln 210MP. It’s can do MIG, TIG and stick so great for a benginner that wants to try all processes. Miller makes a similar machine but it’s pretty expensive. If you go MIG it’s ok to start with flux core but you’ll want a gas setup eventually.
cool thanks. i tried going to school for it a few years back i think i just need to learn at my own pace and wanted to do it on my time until i'm good enough to get certified.

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Hello fatherless generation.
Who are your favorites?
Wranglercuck, EC, Paul Sellers, AVE etc.
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>used to identify as a "God fearing Christian"

This explains a lot.
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others I haven't seen mentioned:

Bcbloc02 (Brian): Solo builder restoring an old barn around a HUGE bridge crane, lots of heavy machine tools, his dog Bailey, and healthy amounts of autism. Huge respect for the amount of work accomplished by himself.

Andrew Camarata - Built a shipping container 'castle'/shop. Lots of dump trucks, drone shots, and getting shit done alone.

Rainfall Projects - Chad farmer and his dog restoring an old barn.

Kirsten Dirksen - Visits odd/small homes across the globe

NYCNC - I find annoying af, but his machine shop tours are rad:

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>and his dog restoring an old barn
tim sway
Johnny's reloading bench. Kinda long winded but i am this far into digitally controlling my lead pour pot for sinkers and bullets with the push of a button.

Hopefully anyway...

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<---- What is the name of this fucking connector? And does anybody know where to find it?

Long story short, the previous owner apparently doesn't know what male and female connectors are and super glued them together. So when I tried to unplug the cable, the connector came off the cable. Then later when I tried to separate the male/female connectors, whole thing came off the board.

I found a replacement cable with no problem, but I can't find this part to save my life. I'm guessing if I at least knew the name I could go from there, but there doesn't seem to be any sources giving it a proper name. Just using the terms "connector" and "p15/p16".

Does anybody have any insight at all?
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>Surface mount pin headers

It's like you want him to strip his traces.


I'm not sure what he's looking at is a FPC connector. the connector is made by molex, but I'm pretty sure it's a different series, FPC usually don;t have the side-by side contact sets IIRC.
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>I'm not sure what he's looking at is a FPC connector

it isn't an FPC, it's a SlimStack connector. Pic related.


Good luck finding where to buy just one. they're all bulk sell. DESU I didn't check Digikey or Mouser, but you'll have to hunt for the matching series to your exact connector.
that connector can make like a tree and fuck off, for all i know it's designed to be single-use
Apparently, according to OP if you cannot identify the internal components of a Nintendo handheld console then you're obviously in the fallatio game.
>OP is a faggot as usual
>doesn't have a real job
>doesn't get paid for the dicks he sucks
>isn't useful to anybody

Please get off of welfare.

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old truth thread: >>1363100
>I'm new to electronics, where to get started?
There are several good books and YouTube channels that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more, many with advanced techniques. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty.

Forrest Mims III, Getting Started in Electronics
Charles Platt, Make: Electronics
Michael Jay Geier, How to Diagnose & Fix Everything Electronic

Kybett & Boysen, All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide
Paul Scherz and Simon Monk, Practical Electronics for Inventors


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I bought Pic related 20 years ago and it's bretty gud (can be made to work with quite acceptable results) for almost all open barrel terminals. it costs the better part of 100 burgers though
"Engineer" of Japan's PA-21 crimp tool is well-renowned but its range seems a bit limited to me. see their application chart on their product page
if you really want cheap *and* good, you might have to pick up two or three tools. for "Dupont" connectors I use the SN-01BM crimp tool and it works well and with little trouble, other than the occasional cocked angle if I crimp too hard. the SN-28B also works, sorta, but I almost always have to dress the finished crimp with long nose pliers so it fits into the shell. there are a few models/series of crimp tool on alibay that have interchangeable dies within the series, which might work okay IF you can find the right dies for the terminal types you want to crimp
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you want a W shaped crimp die.
look at this pic, the lower jaw is a simple C while the top is made of two W of different high. the higher W is meant to crimp the contactor, the lower W crimps the strain relieve.
This should work for all pins of the style like your pic
also, this pic is the first result searching "molex crimp tool" at around 20€. It even has a dial for crimp force
That's very noice advice, buddy

Can that SN-28B be made to work with the SN-01BM dies?

Thank you very much I'll look for that
the "SN-01BM" I got (marked Plato) doesn't interchange with the "JX-1601" I got, the thickness of the slot in the pliers doesn't match the thickness of the mounting tab of the die thus the dies themselves won't be well-aligned. as with all things chinkshit, your mileage may vary
the SN-01BM I got was only like $15 shipped. it's possible you may find ali sellers that offer both a "Dupont" compatible crimp tool and also additional die sets

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So the time has come to shit can my 2001 ford ranger and get a new (used) vehicle. I live in a backwater 3rd world country called "Connecticut" where for some reason they put the most horrid shit to melt the snow in the winter. It does melt the snow, but it also happens to melt the underside of vehicles which inevitably get fucked from salt/chemical snow slurry. Perhaps this is a question better fit for /o/, but I figure there's got to be /diy/'s that work on their own vehicles, obviously. What can I do to prolong the frame and components on my new truck (used f150). All I have read about is rustoleum, but I was wondering if there's some trade secret, or industrial strength shit I could coat the bottom with. Also would like any tips on prolonging/ increasing life of a truck.

As a trade off I'll give you a tip of my own. Seized engine? Misfiring? Clogged to shit carb or need a better kick starting up in cold weather? Marvel Mystery Oil. Good for gas, 20% in the oil. Used by Germans in WW2 on the Russian front. Has always remedied, or at least made problems in some of my finicky lawn equipment.
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85 3/4 ton ford with the 7.3

Accidentally goosed it. Got buried to the frame on a grassy HILL.

Next day traded it as it set buried for a 4x4 ranger with a suspention lift kit. Bout 31 10.50 s that day and never regreted it a bit.

Aside from the whole 3 junkyard 4 cly and havibg to shove a standard in it after the automatic smoked
Kek. There are a few of us. The autists usually piss us off and we leave tho.

I wish they would just make the old trucks with new guts again
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I tried mounting gaming foam to my walls but look what happened...
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>inb4 ops sets his house on fire from installing gaming foam
I though it was supposed to improve the number of FPS your ears hear.
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This whole fucking thread is bait
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stuff it in your ears.
Why do you need acoustic foam?

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I don't have a clue about building but i need to put up this cheap ass wall mounted pull up bar, the instructions are jack shit and the YouTube videos are confusing with words like 'stud' nor do they seem to correspond to this certain bar. Can you just give me a simple step by step instruction how to do it. I will post closer pics if this is hard to read
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having walls like this. is this an american thing? everything here is solid concrete
So you would have a solid wall of concrete upstairs with open space underneath do you?
Not sure if this sarcasm but yes I think that's basically what I have, like I said this is a sturdy Victorian house

Okay it looks like everything is set to go, the only thing I'm worried about is the screws >>1374274
they don't look 100 percent like those in the video here >>1372489
but will they still work the same?
If it's Victorian it will be brick,not concrete.
If it's a brick wall it will be brick all the way down, i doubt it will be brick wall on timber beam floor unsupported underneath.
Stud partitions are common everywhere now because it's just not economical or practical or even sensible to build brick internal walls.
A stud wall you can throw up just about anywhere with no planning or survey necessary.
A solid wall is a significant dead weight that absolutely needs structural planning to accommodate, even ground floor would usually need founds at least checked.
You Americans build like shit. No wonder every time you have a tornado, half of Kansas gets destroyed. You cheap ass fuckers...

Any good tactics that dont include a crane for getting 2 of these puppies in the ground side by side?
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You don't freeze instantly, but your whole body does instantly expand to twice its size from your blood boiling

Assuming any of this shit actually meets code, and insurance in case anyone gets injured on your property, or if one of the retard college kids sets your massive delivery-to-nowhere project on fire, or tries to bury one of them in the ground. Things like that.
That's a lot of money you have to have just lying around just to handle fuckups.

Have you even thought about what the town would think having a Chinese tanker for a neighbor?

now run a finite element simulation of a container in that orientation buried under dirt
> container ~5000 lbs
You can't really stack or move these without equipment, but you don't have to resort to hiring a crane that costs hundreds per hour. Rent a forklift with enough capacity to do the job. That will cost maybe a couple hundred bucks a day.
>run a finite element simulation of a container in that orientation buried under dirt
The main corner is now facing directly up (towards load.) The strength of containers in in the corners. this will be just fine.
A lot of lube....

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You can live control raspberry pi robots I set up in my house


I also have some info about parts to make them here

Code that runs on the bot is open source at github robotstreamer/robotstreamer
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when I clicked, it was a crap bot that went back and forth, left and right, and bumped into the shit in his garage.

kinda fun.

what sort of bandwidth does a server need to do that sort of shit? I'd like to have battle bots in my room that you can play with, but my pathetic dreamhost server would probably croak.
Its not like its a secret. He left address labels in full view of the cameras at the old place.
I think I killed the garage one
garbage bots demand a recharge
gib battery plox
Do you value that guitar right there, OP?

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This guys walks to your gf and slaps her ass.


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Anon, I want to give you a hug now. Thanks!
this basic is good
i compiled it for windows with tcc and get 258048 bytes EXE
>Not interpreting ARM instructions in external DRAM on your AVR https://hackaday.com/2012/03/28/building-the-worst-linux-pc-ever/
>Shiggy Diggy

If you don't need to do it too often it would be possible to copy the external memory to flash and then execute from there.
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girl on right is topanga from boi meets world.

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