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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Hey /diy/!
I'm searching a method to etching my pcb...i'm in italy and ferric cloride can't be sell...any soluion?
Sorry for bad joke at end lol
You can use hydrogen peroxide and hydrochloric acid to etch

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Would this work, or will the efficiency be terrible since the charger requires 100-240v?

Entirely possible that the charger simply won't work. Most switching supplies like that require a minimum of ~80V.

Just get a 6V/12V charger and us that instead. Just make sure it's switchmode, not linear.
So you're saying a higher voltage charger will have a lower minimum input?

btw, thanks for the fast reply

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What should I do with it?
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These are the correct answers but if you don't want to be one of the cool kids you could just make it into a coffee table like a friend of mine did.
Is that thing levitating? I'd sell it to scientists for a fortune.
Why would you throw away a perfectly good piece of wood that's already shaped like a table and go pay for more shit?
This. Re-using is a fun form of recycling. No need for something with many potential uses to rot in a landfill.
And it's not like you can't pretty it up into a respectable piece of furniture.

American here. I have about $60,000 saved up, and have a tremendous fear about being in debt. I would like to own my own place but the idea of a mortgage kinda freaks me out. I have heard about shipping container homes - I hear conflicting information about them. Are they just a meme? I honestly don't give much of a shit about the spaciousness of where I live, I'm more interested in cost-effectiveness, low maintenance, quality over quantity style living. It's fucking amazing how much money you have left over if you don't need to pay rent or a mortgage. So an idea I am kicking around is buying a cheap peace of land somewhere (I work from home so whereabouts doesn't really matter at this point), hook up sewer or septic, maybe add in some solar if there's enough money. Have enough land to add extensions at a later date if I need more room.

On a scale of 1-10 how stupid is my idea? Feasible or full retard?
9 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>3/4 inch steel
Hahaha ha... ha.
That's only the frame not the walls where you'd want the holes. Have you ever seen a shipping container in person?
Shipping containers are an sjw meme.
Try derksonbuildings.com
Pic related.
We have plenty of threads on/out/ about this, one is around 200 posts right now I think.

Posted from innawoods in same model cabin as pic.

They got someone squatting on every domain don't they?
I wish those were 3/4" steel, I'd buy all I could and make a doomsday bunker!

I'd pack them with people voting for Hillary, and they'd be impregnable!
You can buy a small 'manufactured home'eg trailer for about $10000 and it's actually livable. Park it on a $7000 lot out in the desert, spend $3000 on power hook up, water storage tank anchorage then, spend $40000 on meth and ammunition.

Post your most recent projects.
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I keep everything as original as possible. When the mic cartridge/diaphram are still working I do everything possible to keep them and just fix the wires or coneectors or whatever else. The 4 mics in that pic are all original electronics except for the Astatic Commentator (second from the top). The diaphram was ripped and the 3-pin Astatic adapter was cracked. SO I put a similar new dynamic element in it and updated the connectors to standard XLR. it's still charming as a refurbed 1944 collectible, but it's modernized. it was the best I could do under the circumstances.
It's refreshing to see someone taking care of old equipment. Nice stuff! Do you have anymore pictures?
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Here's the "mic museum" at its height. I'm in selling mode now, so once I net a few hundred back I'll begin the process all over again.
cool thanks, i've got plywood bases now so maybe i'll make a switch
Wow this is great. Nice picture too.

No worries, as >>1043421 said it may be not the best design for durability and stability but mine works pretty good.

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I made the dumb mistake of leaving my phone on top of a buddy's car. I didn't realize it until about 3 minutes later and found it lying down in the middle of the street looking all busted. It was most likely ran over because I dropped it multiple times but it never once got this bad. Anyways, it is still alive and receives texts and calls. I was wondering if there was a way to control the phone over a pc or another phone and be able to see what is displayed on the screen. The phone does not light up or turn on unless the charger is plugged in and even then it is just black with colored boxes. And touch screen is completely f'ed. Any help is appreciated.
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Is it rooted?
Marshmallow is the only released android version that does that, and only on brand new phones. If your phone didn't come with Marshmallow pre-installed, encryption is not enabled by default.
Bollocks. My gen2 Moto-G did an OTA update to Marshmallow and offered to encrypt the SD.

(It gets slow and crashes a lot when I did, so I wiped and continued unencrypted, but it's not just for pre-installed.)

Lollipop also does it, so not just Marshmallow.
If you can't access it at all I'd recommend you to replace the whole front. It's a quite easy operation (at least it was on my OPO, which took me 45 min and it was my first time doing something like that). Anyways, make sure you buy a WHOLE replacement kit including a screen, touch panel and tools (some sellers give out screen protectors for free aswell). Now you have two options:
1. You buy the kit from a Chinese dealer online (aliexpress or similar). It is WAY cheaper than high quality products or originals, but the quality is fucking shit mostly (my new screen broke after 1 month from falling on a carpet from my pocket while sitting). Also the shipping takes a few weeks. But you have a large selection of kits for any phone you want.
2. You buy a high quality product from where you live or original parts. They are way more expensive, but you know you'll get good quality. You might have to search a bit and maybe you won't find any if your phone is 'exotic'. Shipping/Sending won't take as long as well.
Anyways it's up to you.
Look up for a YouTube tutorial. You will most likely find a video tutorial for your phone. It's quite easy too, you just need some patience and a calm hand. It took me an hour or so for my OPO (it was my first time doing something like that though). Just try it, you won't damage your phone more than it already is if you can't save you data on another way.
Oh I mentioned my replacement two times. I should smoke less hash...

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Hey /diy/

I have been wanting a Raspberry Pi-like for a while, but since it's so fucking expensive where in my country I decided to make this a personal project and build my own. It obviously doesn't need to be as powerful/beautiful/compact as the Raspberry Pi itself.

The issue is that I don't exactly know where to start. I am not a total layman, I got some electronics knowledge, a robotics background (mostly doing simple stuff like line followers etc) and am majoring in EE (first year though) but it seems that this is some other kind of monster.

I would appreciate any tip regarding the path I should go, the things I should learn (I love to learn stuff by myself!) and the stuff I should do. Even if your tip is "/diy/ might not be the place for that, you should try ___", or some suggestion of website that I could visit.

Thanks in advance and (the usual) sorry for my english. I might not have that many errors but sometimes I don't know how to express myself properly.
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Get an Arduino instead of a Pi if you're into electronics.
1) Find a mcu that is well-documented. Most manufacturers provide no documentation at all unless you pay lots and sign a "loyalty" paper.
2) Check u-boot and Linux kernel support.
3) Read design rules for high-frequency signals, especially bus related (e.g. RAM bus has strict requirements)
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I'm making my own Nixie clock right now, and let me just reiterate a point already made:

You're going to spend more money on making the board than buying one online.

The components aren't super expensive, and since you're a student your time is worth basically 0, but the tools and having a board printed (even if you do it yourself) is going to cost about what you would pay for one bought online.

Sorry, I know it's probably not what you want to hear, especially on /diy/, but unless you're doing it for a hobby/shits and giggles/project, you're better off buying one.
>components aren't super expensive
Don't listen to this guy.
RPi-level CPU are expensive, and so are RAM memories of a reasonable size.
Sounds like a pain in the ass, probably will cost you the same. How much is it to import?

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Red pill me on manual drills
What is the correct way to hold it?
Were drill bits shaped differently in the times of manual drills? I ask because the drills bite in too hard when I try to use it. How do I stop it? Or do I just start from a small bit and work my way up through 5 bits to get to the correct size hole that I want?
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Well, it IS on the other side of the wall
>manual angle grinder
Does a file cut concrete? No. Does an angle grinder cut concrete? Yes.
Can you cut a pipe (in a corner) with a file? No (at least in a reasonable time). Can you cut a pipe (in a corner) with an angle grinder? Yes.

Come back when you make up the next false idea please.

There you go


also, yeah. Manual tools are usually slower and less versatile. They're also quieter and safer.

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Dowels are the strongest way to join wood.

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foxtail mortise and tenon
Hide glue breaks down over time. PVA doesn't.
no, I'm pretty sure this is. this video gets me wet I swear to god.

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it would be some combination of joints that is the strongest.
For glue joints id guess half laps with through dowels is the strongest.

For non-glue it'd be finger/box joints with wedged dowels going through them all.
How large a branch can I do with a stick welder?

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last >>1028473


>I'm new to electronics, where do I get started?
There are several good books and YouTube channels that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more, many with advanced techniques. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty.

>What books are there?

Getting Started in Electronics Forrest Mims III
Make: Electronics Charles Platt
How to Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic Michael Jay Greier


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I was just wondering what exactly prevents those multimeters from measuring above those 600V, so that's why I used that example. Thanks for the answer.
>But what would exactly be the cause of the fault of my meter if I tried to e.g. measure a 1.8kV voltage with the setup from >>1043006 ?
There is two potential problems with extremely-high voltages, even if the current is not enough to do damage.
One is that the electricity will arc across PCB tracks or component wires inside the multimeter.
There is a test video online where a guy puts a couple thousand volts pulse into one of the super-cheapo $5 DT830 multimeters. The meter isn't damaged but it produces no reading, and [with the multimeter PCB removed from the case] arcing is observed across two of the bare PCB knob traces. So it fails at ~2KV, because even tho the 2KV pulse doesn't exactly HURT the meter--beyond that amount of voltage, it won't obtain any volts reading.
The rule of thumb is that arcing requires roughly 10KV per centimeter depending on other factors (humidity, dust in the air).

Another problem is that resistors can break down internally under too much voltage/current. Most typical resistors are only rated for about 200v maximum drop. You can buy resistors that are rated for 1000v or more; these are usually power resistors made of the "sand-stone" type stuff.


You can easily make a high-voltage divider probe for measuring tens of thousands of volts if you want; people online show how to do it for directly measuring voltages from Tesla coils and the like.
You can buy them too but a voltage divider is all it really is inside.
Multimeters don't come already made like this (capable of measuring tens of thousands of volts) because of the internal-arcing reason.
>What exactly is an analog signal?
>Is a digital signal composed only of data as in 0 and 1,s?
An analog signal is one where any value is presumed to be (possibly) significant.

A digital signal only has two significant values. Usually the dividing point is around 4 to 4.5 volts, but it can be set at any level within the circuit's acceptable range given the components.
Anything equal to or above the dividing point is considered "high" and anything below it is considered "low".

The part you use for finding out if a digital signal is low or high is called a comparator.
A common logical comparator example is the LM393. For a high signal it will output 5v, and for a low signal it outputs zero volts.
Analog = "how much"
Digital = "how many"

I.e. analog is measured, digital is counted.
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Digital signals are pulses of 1s or 0s, so they look like square pulses with varying time of the high or low states on an oscilloscope. They are interpreted as such, so they can easily send binary information, i.e. 1011 or high-low-high-low is interpreted as number "11" etc.Voltage level of low is usually 0 V, voltage level of high depends but common values are 5V or 3.3V. To read digital signals you need a clock (a symmetrical 50% duty square pulse that never changes a bit) that will go along the signal so the interpreting circuit knows when the next state of the signal is supposed to start. Imagine you get one milisecond of continous 5V, how else would you know how many HIGH states in series is it supposed to represent without a clock telling you how many ticks you went through?

Analog signals don't have any significant values, or rather all of them can be significant. Typical analog signals are audio signals that are sent to the speaker: its not a bunch of 1s or 0s, its a very complicated superposition of waves of varying frequencies and amplitudes that directly converts into sound. Sound itself is analog signal too, though mechanical, not electrical. Reality itself is analog and in electronics we try to approximately convert it to digital because digital processing is much more clearer and less prone to noise, losses, parasitic properties and other unwanted effects. However some information is inevitably lost in the analog-to-digital conversion process.

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Dad bought a used shaving brush in some flea market from a stranger. Was in shit condition, I peeled and sanded down all the varnish from the handle and put a dark + clear coat of new varnish and it looks great now, I'll give it back as a present (pic unrelated, camera broken ATM).

But how do I really sanitize it? I always bought new, myself. Hot water + soap + vinegar isn't enough for some stranger with possible AIDS and anthrax or whatever; will tiny diluted amount of bleach risk the varnish and/or whiskers? How about alcohol? How far can I push these? Any tips from craftsmen/shavers would be welcome.

Also, it's not badger, maybe boar (or something else). My dad just liked its shape and it cost him like 3 Euro.
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Not sure I can get it in my country, let's see what it contains:
>"Barbicide is a ... combination germicide, pseudomonacide, fungicide, and a viricide ... Its active ingredient is Alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride (5.12% by volume)"

Uhhh yeah I don't even know what that is.

I would be much more reassured if SOMETHING that kills bacteria will wash this stuff, but I'm new to woodworking and don't know how cured varnish reacts with 70% alcohol or diluted bleach (or the knot).

Thanks for the tip about replacing the know, but that's really overkill. I just need to disinfect this and let him have a go, his current brush is an awful brittle plastic thing with no style at all.
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Also wet shaving general, I suppose - DE, straight razors, brushes and shaving soaps.
Barbicide is the blue shit they stick combs into.
Barbicide can be bought on amazon. Its always in its concentrate form and needs to be diluted for general use.

Soak the hairs in a dilute bleach concentration for an hour and rinse. Allow to dry.

Anything thats dangerous enough to be concerned with will get dead from the bleach, and most everything will die from a few weeks of drying out and exposure.

Even HIV croaks after a dozen days in dried blood even in optimal ph nuetral conditions.

Rinse it well, bleach it, rinse it, let it dry out, then treat it with coconut oil to enliven the bristle

dad probably wanted it to use as a buttplug.. looks like a dildo.. your dad has issues

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Hey, so I've got no talent for this.

I had to get my front wheel off, it was stuck and I didnt a rubber mallet or anything decent to knock it out with, so I used a screw driver and a wrench to punch it out.

The screwdriver ended up damaging the threads of the axle and I couldnt get the nut on anymore.
So I bought a thread file and cleaned it up, however it only goes half way in now, I've repaired most of the damage but on one spot on the far end it's slightly thinner, the outer part of the nut can't get past it by hand strength.

Any ideas how to fix this? the thread file isnt really fixing that minor fault, the inner part of the nut goes past it but the outer just wont.

Trying to put the outer nut part in first, it wont turn more than half a turn, right when it'll pass that thinner area.

Any advice is much appreciated!
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go buy a die of the right size & pitch
tried to look for one that fits at the locally, none of the stores got one in the right size. would need to order and prefer to ride this weekend.

wouldnt it work taking a file and lowering the first line of the thread, where the nut wont pass by?

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Hi /diy/ - is it safe to plug two surge protectors into an extension cord? I was told not to plug a surge protector into another surge protector, so I was wondering if I could instead plug them both into an extension cord. Would this be safe?
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The problem with plugging a surge protector into something besides a receptacle is that it might result in too much load on a single circuit, which may result in the wire heating, melting the insulator, and causing a fire.
yes its safe... but you can simply plug the extension cord into the surge protector and achieve the same result

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