[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k] [s4s] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / out / po / pol / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / x] [Settings] [Home]
Settings Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Advertise on 4chan]

4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.

11/12/15Name changed. WWE topics on /asp/ - Alternative Sports & Wrestling
11/09/15New trial board added: /trash/ - Off-Topic
11/06/15Janitor acceptance emails will be sent out over the coming weeks. Make sure to check your spam box!
[Hide] [Show All]

You anon might like it more. "Anonymous Documentary - How Anonymous Hackers Changed the World Full Documentary"

[Catalog] [Archive]

File: diy.jpg (657 KB, 800x600)
657 KB
657 KB JPG
Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

File: you.jpg (61 KB, 450x600)
61 KB
Share your planes, helis, boats, multirotors (quadcopters), cars, hovercrafts or anything else rc you have made.
155 replies and 34 images omitted. Click here to view.
>The first hobbyist multicopter
>I think internet = real life
People have been building these since like the 80s, maybe they didn't write blogs about them, maybe because they were pretty shit until modern micro controllers and gyros. Notice how nobody gives a shit about his "first" in the videos.
>how does it do more computing if it is made of the same components a heli uses?
Obviously because there's 3 rotors all stabilizing each other you retard, also notice how an experienced RC pilot is limited to slow and basic maneuvers, nothing like the fancy pre-programmed flips you see everyone and their dog do with the store bought ones.
>why can I fly in acro mode with only a gyro
You can't. You've got 4 gyros connected to 4 micro controllers. Again how the fuck do you think you're controlling 4 separate engines with a single throttle and joystick? That's right, you're not. Meanwhile you can buy purely mechanical Helicopters

The helis sold in toy stores instead of dedicated hobby/RC stores are almost universally shit. You're looking at at least 300$, also, gas powered is really the way to go. The reason you can buy "decent" quads in toy stores is because, as mentioned they're 90% self flying with all the software on them. Even if the weight distribution is off and the blades are misaligned the software will simply take care of it.
>implying anyone on /diy/ gives a shit what they say
File: 20150808T152621ZAKDQE.jpg (105 KB, 720x1280)
105 KB
105 KB JPG
What is the lowest safe voltage per cell on a 4s lipo? More specifically a 4s, 10c, 10,000 mah multistar lipo.

I built a fixed wing fpv but I'm unsure about the safe voltage limits on these batteries, I usually don't go below 3.8v per cell but I heard that you can push batteries lower if they have low discharge rates, like the 10c.
While I'm arguing about how they behave, you seem to be arguing about the fact that there is a computer in it and how that's a bad thing, because it can't be understood and leads to unpredictable behavior.

But the "compute what to do with motors from stick inputs" part actually not very complex for flight modes that don't hold level, height or position. It's not like a desktop OS with millions of lines of code and thousands of states the system can be in.
It can be understood by a hobbyist and I don't think it requires more time than getting a mechnical heli to fly correctly if you start from scratch with both.
For cleanflight for example:
The stick positions you are so enamored wit go in at line 115/116: https://github.com/cleanflight/cleanflight/blob/master/src/main/flight/pid.c#L115
And by line 208 we know how we want the motor outputs to change or not (axisPID), which is in the same 1000-2000us format you use too. The only thing left to do is to multiply it with how the motors are currently set and add the throttle to it, which happens here at lines 749-759: https://github.com/cleanflight/cleanflight/blob/8402f4512a913abde32ccec704704fc466516997/src/main/flight/mixer.c#L753

Tada, magic! Hell we're multiplying, addding and substracting shit here. Even if you don't know the programming language it makes sense because it looks like math - because it fucking is.
Of course a computer does it more quickly that I ever could. But it only does what it is programmed to do. It is a tool. I wouldn't be able to switch power on and off as quickly as you need to to run a brushless motor either.

And the time used to understand it is offset by the time saved because I don't have to repair swashplates, as the device is much simpler mechanically.


And yes, I agree it becomes more of a clusterfuck if you add behaviors mechanical helis can't do, which depend on other sensors like a GPS.

That being said, the bullshit an ESC of a brushless motor has to go through to sense the current position of a sensorless rotor and commutate it is also complicated. Read this for example: http://www.st.com/st-web-ui/static/active/cn/resource/technical/document/user_manual/CD00236524.pdf
So I sure hope you're not using those - but judging from the pic you posted you do...

File: FLIR1634.jpg (101 KB, 653x237)
101 KB
101 KB JPG
/diy/, make me aware of some basic thermography and how could I improve the situation.

The pic is made from outside. The windows are supposed to be new, triple glass. Northern Europe, so heat insulation is important.

You can see that there are three places that the heat is leaking from. Is this normal that:
1) the place you this gypsum stuff on the wall is where the heat is leaking?
2) the place where the window connects to the frane is where the heat is also leaking?
3) the place where the glass pane is connected to the frame is where the heat is leaking as well?

>the place you see this gypsum stuff


File: DSCN3315a.jpg (1.21 MB, 3648x2736)
1.21 MB
1.21 MB JPG
Stop what you are doing.
Post a pic of your breadboard, now!

No shortening of the jumpers for the photo!
35 replies and 13 images omitted. Click here to view.
File: 456456.png (25 KB, 527x763)
25 KB
>Here's some calculators that can help

Can't post the links because it "Error: Our system thinks your post is spam. Please reformat and try again." and I'm not sure which link is the problem and chopping them up in various ways isn't working. So, here's an image with the links.

I blame shitty spammers for this problem.
or, if there's several links, you can just link to a pastebin with them.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.
File: 1439872740934.gif (907 KB, 325x203)
907 KB
907 KB GIF
Mooooom, the anons didn't like my joke/////
>Making breadboard wiring 'neat'.
>Completely ignore circuit design considerations making wires longer than they should be, even with a 780x circuit which is too simple to fail at making it perfect, but you failed at it.
>plugging 3,5mm jacks at random locations without being useful. otherwise it would probably be too clear that you don't fucking know what you're doing.
You sir are a retard, I'd recommend you to stop touching electronics ever again.

File: 1429986366322.jpg (2.55 MB, 4314x2967)
2.55 MB
2.55 MB JPG
who generally electronics here?

>I'm new to electronics, where do I get started?
There are several good books and YouTube channels that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more, many with advanced techniques. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty.

>Links to get started

also, general electronics thread
217 replies and 59 images omitted. Click here to view.
File: MOC3010.jpg (13 KB, 482x198)
13 KB
> USB has surge protection right?

if you mean short-circuit protection, yes unless it's a very cheap computer.

> I just want a way to switch mains power on and off with a Raspberry Pi.

relays are ok except they usually require a fair bit of current. a better, quieter alternative is an opto-isolator driving a Triac.
FPGAs aren't exactly common in consumer stuff to begin with.
What's the point of this exercise?
The whole 12V?

Saw some defcon talk on youtube were a guy flashed one with bitcoin mining software through JTAG
File: ss_relay_eaiuhfaiufhaua.jpg (121 KB, 1214x676)
121 KB
121 KB JPG
>I keep seeing people mention the powerswitch tail, but I've also read that it's rather noisy. I looked into mechanical and solid state relays, but I don't know which one I'd need control mains, or how I'd go about hooking it up.
1. either mechanical or solid-state relays can control stuff run off of mains electricity
2. you just buy a relay that has an output rating for the voltage and current you want. There is two contacts you place in series in the AC line you want to control, and two or three logic contacts.
3. mechanical relays click when they turn on or off
4. solid-state relays make no noise at all when switching
5. sparkfun sells a few solid state relays; one is product # 10636 ,,,a much bigger one is product # 13015

warnings to research yourself:
6. "DC" things like light bulbs and heating elements can be connected directly, but relays need circuit protection when used with inductive loads (like motors).
7. relays (either mechanical or solid-state) cannot be used with PWM to produce a dimmer or motor-throttle effect. If you attempt to make a relay switch (either on or off) for a very short period of time, it may stay on too long or fail to respond totally.

Pic related is the usual cheap China-generic solid-state relay breakout.
It has a LED that light up when on (which can be helpful) but the current capacity is kinda low--for some reason they only like to use 2A relays.
They may also have some circuit protection present but it's risky to rely on that (add your own).

File: collapsecover1f.jpg (149 KB, 1066x1286)
149 KB
149 KB JPG
does anyone else DIY in anticipation of the end of the "easy life" based on cheap oil and overuse of nonrenewables?

No sane and intelligent person is eager for a permanent drop in their quality of life.
It's part of why I do it. Also because diy is fun as fuck.

File: weller2.jpg (85 KB, 450x291)
85 KB
So, I'm one of those who got drawn into electronics via drones, and I've found that there's a lot about soldering and the various connectors to learn about.

I do believe that this is a deep enough and different enough topic from general electronics to warrant it's own thread.

Anyway, here's one of the better writeups I've found on the topic if you're learning.


Now, I also have a question -- I know Weller is the go to brand for serious soldering irons: is there a decent knock-off that gives you the control/tip options/and the like you get out of a Weller?
211 replies and 28 images omitted. Click here to view.
That happened because either you or the person before you stripped them and you probably made it worse. Look up how to remove stripped screws.

Im assuming this is the case because you said you tried multiple sized screwdrivers already and none worked
if you remove the sucker bulb and hook it up to some high temp rated silicon tubing and that to an aquarium air pump, you can make a cheap reliable hot air solderer.

other than that, those are great for solder removal. i'd rather use a spring loaded plastic solder sucker than braid any day.
who says you must buy knipex there definately cheeper brands
I bet you never soldered, are you the one of the neat breadboard threads, where you have nice organized breadboards without any useful circuit on it?
It's pronounced "kill yourself"

File: Tambourine.jpg (283 KB, 1000x667)
283 KB
283 KB JPG
Hey there, everyone. First time posting here, but I figured it would be the right place for my inquiry.
A while back I learned, from a thread on here, how to create a small forge for smithing and casting. This gained my interest, and my passion for percussion started to get involved. I've come to the conclusion that I want to put serious effort into forging small metal percussion instruments, and I thought a tambourine might be a good place to start, seeing as how they have many near-identical copper/bronze/silver jingles. This is where I need your help, /diy/:
What is a good budget way to form wood into small hoops for applications such as tambourine or small frame drum making? I assume some sort of steam process, but I don't want to rent some expensive equipment or pay someone else to do it, or buy a premade hoop (REEEEEE). It would be a wooden hoop with a diameter of anywhere between 6 and 12 inches.
Thanks a ton, guys.
You should look at any woodworking processes that involve curves, circles or cylinders, such as barrel and boat making, to give you a rough idea as to what parts of the wood industry does. You should also do some research on wood properties that could give you a better result in your instrument, with things like grain affecting the sound quality and even using knots to any possible advantage. Definitely look at native instrument making because it's cool as fuck.

If it were me though, I would make a five part frame, consisting of your inner circle and outer diameter split into quarters. Soak the plank in water and slowly clamp it in place with the appropriate compression in the right places to get it bent in a circle. Once done, I would glue two pieces of something short to the ends, drill holes in them and thread it.

That being said, I have no experience in making instruments and I have little woodworking experience when it comes to things like this. Of course, I may have said inappropriate methods, but it's clearly straight out of my ass so I can't have much credibility on this topic.
Can you give us a summary?
>smithing and casting
the things are not made that way though. you just beat that shit with a hammer.
Solid wood isn't really used so much, it's all bent plywood in most percussion and drum making, it's structurally stronger and has a more even resonance.

You can layer veneers around a mold to build up a ring, that's the best homebred method J could suggest.

I mean you can make solid ones but they are a bastard to get right and the best method is to turn them on a lathe I'd imagine. But you will run into grain weakness issues.

File: 7bX71O3j[1].jpg (32 KB, 350x350)
32 KB
Ham thread? Ham thread.

KD9B** here, where my hams at?

Also, have to move in a couple months. I'll finally have a place with a yard. I'll finally have room to do some HF work. I'm thinking either a Kenwood TS-2000 or an ICOM IC-7100. Sure, a few tradeoffs between the two, but any opinions from those who have used both?
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Tech here, got my license back in July and I'm working on studying for General, though I figure I'll probably have Extra before I have enough cash for a HF radio.

Right now all I've got is one of the F8 Baofengs, plus a Grundig G6 and a RTL-SDR dongle. Right now I'm mainly thinking about building a J-pole to put outside my window and a QFH antenna so that I can use the RTL-SDR to pick up weather satellite images.
Industry Canada has a spectrum search tool, don't transmit on anything. You're in a place where you should get on HF as quickly as possible and aim to get honors on your Basic exam. A repeater network is planned for Labrador soon, if that helps.

So do any of you actually /diy/ other than antennas?
File: IMAG1517.jpg (1.57 MB, 1840x3264)
1.57 MB
1.57 MB JPG
I made a custom RTL SDR thingy with a built in LNA and upconverter http://imgur.com/a/2Eo9y

I also fuck around with arduino interfacing shit. pic is a relay board that uses a baofeng as a receiver and runs using dtmf tones.
Anyone know any compact (10x10 cm or so) 23cm SSB transmitters with at least 5W output?

How can I make a very high-voltage, low current, 4Mhz AC solid state tesla coil that won't just short itself out? I'm hoping for 1 MV or more.
36 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
What about using a Cockcroft-Walton voltage multiplier tied to the output of a flyback transformer?
LOL did you even look at those equations in what you posted. not accounting for "real power" and "apparent power" and the true root mean squared equation though that just account for differences over time.

learn ohm's law

guess i'm going to leave this thread, then again i was only trying to help by informing it is actually dangerous, according to some people in this thread i guess neon sign transformers are harmless and the stickers on them are just for show and the potting material is so you can;t reverse engineer them as easily.

OP all you really need is some transformers and account for heat loss
>We are already using it. Just not in Tesla coil form. Electric and Hybrid cars and bus are based on the technology. Several countries are starting wireless bus recharging.

Except inductive coupling is completely different than an RF transmitter/receiver pair?

>Eventually, when electric cars are the norm, no one will need to stop to recharge. They will drive continuously and be recharged as the vehicle travels along the road.

I'm curious as to how much you think it would cost to put in just a 4-lane-road mile's worth of aluminum coils (because you're insane if you think we have enough copper to do that).

Nevermind the issue of "oh, the power went out, there are now 50,000 cars stranded on the 91 freeway". Or what your'e supposed to do if you go somewhere that doesn't have a paved road.
>LOL did you even look at those equations in what you posted. not accounting for "real power" and "apparent power"

>not accounting for "real power" and "apparent power"

You pointed it out yourself and yet you still really don't get it, do you? Fine, I'll spell it out:

Volt-amp is SPECIFICALLY used to refer to apparent power. It's NOT synonymous with watts and electricians don't interchange the two, which is what your oh-so-learned self seems to think.

Here, more of the same information, only maybe you'll comprehend it this time.

Wow, what a faggot.

This has nothing to do with the OP or how dangerous the OP's device is or isn't. This is about volts, amps, and death.

The most that would happen with a working Tesla coil is to get a nasty zap that makes you tingle and jump. You won't even get a burn or scar from it in most cases. There's just not enough amps at all to do anything serious. Not say that someone getting shocked for a long time won't have serious problems. The internal stuff powering the Tesla coil is fucking deadly though. The higher the voltage of the Tesla coil the less danger there is of damage from shock so long as the input wattage is all the same. Higher voltage means lower amps and less danger of damage.

People have been shocked by Tesla coil output since their invention. What can damage you is RF burns from prolonged exposure and zaps directly to your eyes.

>RF transmitter/receiver pair?

That isn't what is happening in that. It is just normal induction which is why it only works rather close to the coil. What Tesla wanted to happen was RF transmission for both communications and power transfer, but everything that's been done with them since is just induction. Which is why they have to be so absurdly high voltage.

>I'm curious

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.

I'd like to carve this out for my parents to make a birdhouse, but the thing isn't dead yet. Does anyone know if that's a big deal?
I think as the gourd dries it gets easier to carve and it becomes more stable

File: image.jpg (119 KB, 640x1136)
119 KB
119 KB JPG
What is the most simple home brewing method I can use?

I'm only 20 so I can't buy my own booze and I want to get really drunk.
What measurements should I use for yeast and sugar, and what are some barebones ingredients to make it drinkable?
23 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
>keg of beer for ~$20 of ingredients
I spend ~$40 on malt alone for a 5 gallon batch, and a keg is 6 times that much. What type of fermentable is it that you can buy in your area at 36 lbs for $20 anon? Pure sugar?

At the end of the day, I'm brewing a roughly 6%-7% beer for about $1/bottle. The only way to make it significantly cheaper is to brew a much lower abv or to make white lightning.
This sounds like the dream
File: germany_ftw_540.jpg (119 KB, 429x866)
119 KB
119 KB JPG
oh and booze 18
How long does fermentation take?

File: 21YXniDOn9L._SX300_.jpg (3 KB, 300x240)
3 KB
I can't seem to find any place that sells completely white rubber worstbands. I have seen some videos where people make them themselves. They have this mold and some "liquid rubber", can anyone bright me up with where can i find these liquid rubber/ silicone?
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
File: heavy_workout.webm (2.86 MB, 720x1280)
2.86 MB
2.86 MB WEBM
learn to google


This (>>904085) was your answer. Stop bumping.
File: molding elastic bands.png (1.65 MB, 878x815)
1.65 MB
1.65 MB PNG
This guy knows whats up.
I did something similar a while ago. Got the stuff from a local arts&crafts store. The hardest part is avoiding bubbles during mixing and pouring.

How can I obtain a good box from a slice of cardboard?
2 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
If it's from a piece of flat cardboard, use a stencil. Remember to score your fold lines.

If you want to reduce the size of an existing box, use a box sizer.

>box sizer
A what?
Just use a rule and a knife.
wtf are those?
Ask it politely.

without glue

Use sand bags
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
File: sandbag-squat_0.jpg (28 KB, 450x461)
28 KB
Also makes handy amour.
File: doubles_98457.jpg (118 KB, 500x375)
118 KB
118 KB JPG
>put them in the bed of your truck for traction, because trucks handle worse than a hyundai in the snow.
while this is true in theory, it ls largely a myth in practice.

I did the math once: a typical full-size pickup truck has about a 60/40 weight distribution front-to-rear and weighs around 3200 lbs.

To shift this weight distribution JUST to 50/50 would require around 1,200 lbs of weight over the rear axle.
To get it to 40/60 F/R distribution would require over 3000 lbs of weight added over the rear axle.

They may claim that they can feel a difference, but most people only use a half-dozen <50 lb bags of sand--which means there is hardly any result at all.

Also: the same goes for "keeping your gas tank full, so there's more weight". This totals maybe 100 lbs of weight, that is added roughly equally between the front and rear axles. On a vehicle that weighs ~3200 lbs to begin with, it's practically nothing.

Of course,,,, sand can still be useful in icy weather, and keeping your gas tank full still is a good idea. But the 'benefit of added weight' of either of these things is meaningless.

[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.