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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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whats the craziest thing that has happened on your job?

>be working heavy highway
>be on the east bound side of median
>be working
>all the sudden hear a loud crash as a drunk driver blows through the end of the barrier at 90 mph
>the very same second I hear a trackhoe go full throttle and another crash
>the trackhoe operator instantly spun the machine around and planted the bucket in front of the car stopping it dead with guys not even 20 feet down the road
>operator said he did not even think about it and just did it
>drunk driver is not even hurt trys to get out of the car and flee he scene and is immediately hog tied with tie wire by iron workers till the cops come

this was 8 years ago I have since quit heavy highway after seeing one of my good friends get killed by a drunk driver not even 50 feet from me
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I'm going to be a nightmare when I get old. I'll spend the next 50 years coming up with plans. 75 hits, bam! Five decades of pentup hijinx harassment.
>have shit forklift at work
>shit breaks down every 3 uses
>new coworker wants to learn how to use it
>I refuse to learn it since I don't want to die with minimal wage
>boss is teaching him
>it's fucking up, boss is trying to fix it for him
>I look in the window
>he is flooring it to the storage room, my boss is hanging on the side
>shit looks like a cartoon
>barely skims beside the gateway
>rush the fuck outside
>stops right before he hits the wall in the storage room
>confirm that I will never learn that forklift

Could have ended a lot worse.
in 2000 years society will have broken down, and then reformed several times, future anthropologists will discover the eroded mass of concrete in the area where your home once stood, and decide that it must have been a site of great importance... their will be people who dedicate their entire lives to understanding it... papers will be written, theories will be postulated and then disproven....

top kek

So I am planning on wall mounting my 60" tv soon. The only issue is that I don't what the fuck they did but I swear one wall doesn't even have studs and I believe the wall that does has metal studs. My question isn't really about how to mount the TV to the metal studs but how do I know there aren't any electrical wiring going up the studs. The electrical socket is right on a stud I from my estimates.
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I know what to do to mount it to the wall. My question was how do I know I'm not going to drill right into a electrical wire? One of the studs is line exactly with an electrical outlet. There is a possibility that the wires run right up the stud.
Guess you'll need a fire extinguisher on hand when you do, then.
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Easiest way would be to plug something with a big current draw into the outlet and use a non-contact current detector to trace the cable run.
Can't you just use a stud finder then?
metal behind metal.... yeahh.. that stud finder gonna help

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As summer is here and it was a bit warm yesterday, I kicked-on the A/C for the first time this season and as has happened a few times in the past, it wasn't cooling.

The A/C system has a pin-hole leak somewhere and every 2-3 summers, I have to get it recharged with refrigerant.

Now in the past, this wasn't an issue, as my next-door neighbor worked for the local municipal gas company and he'd recharge the system for free, but he moved away and I had to call a local heating-cooling company to get it fixed.

The gal said it would be $90-some for the visit, $70-some for the first pound of refrigerant and $60-some for each pound thereafter.

My question is; how many lbs of refrigerant are were talking about here and what's this going to cost me?

The condenser is "Performance Plus" brand (which I've never heard of) and I seem to remember my old next-door neighbor saying it was a 2.5 ton unit?
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>That's fine, but I don't know WTF I'm doing nor do I have the necessary gear.

Oldfag here who found out that with determined study and seeking advice from those more skilled than I (while being able to sort out the bullshitters) there are few barriers not easily overcome once you understand basic mechanical, electrical, and other theory as appropriate.

When I pay others, I watch them, but I don't have to do that very often. I'm not a genius but I do all my automotive work except alignments (getting a rack isn't cost-effective), tire mounting and balancing (ditto) and machining (ditto again tho machine shop work is large fun).

Determination pays. You can end up with a shitload of quality equipment, learn to use it in synergy with other equipment, and get to where you promptly sort out almost anything from home to vehicles to PCs or anything else you feel like tackling. Labor is so expensive you can comfortably afford to damage a few things while learning (any tech or mechanic or machinist who says he never made a mistake is lying).

Sometimes shit happens. I cut down a tree a few days ago which was nothing new, but when it twisted a branch hit my power cable and bent the mast going to my meter box. I called the power co. to disconnect, then removed the damaged mast and pinched entrance cable inside it, drove down the street to an electrical supply house and bought replacement parts. They are neatly awaiting electricianbro who does side work to do about a half-hour labor then call the inspector.

I still saved bux over paying a contractor to remove the tree and that motherfucker won't be around to collect ice this winter and fuck my roof up by dropping a lot more weight on it.

I take that shit in stride because it's not common. DIY let me buy and renovate three houses, pay off my mortgages early, and slashes my personal overhead to little more than insurance/food/utilities/taxes.
Spray soapy water on it while full, locate leaks from bubbles, mark it, and jb weld that if directions indicate it can work in that cold.
>replacement parts

In that scenario, (leaking condenser) it would be replacing the entire condenser.

Why would this also include a new coil on the furnace down in the basement, etc.?

>for a system that old.

It's 15-16 years old.

> "I need a new water pump on my car."
> "Sorry, you're going to have to replace the entire engine."
>Spray soapy water on it while full, locate leaks from bubbles

Did that with the neighbor several years back the 1st time this happened and we couldn't find shit.
I had an outdoor condenser unit fail a couple years back. it turned out that the motor coils shorted out, so the outdoor unit was the only thing that needed to be replaced. my house is 1250 sq ft and the unit cost around $1500 installed. I think he said the condenser alone cost around $1200

the repair guy also checked the coils in the inside unit, because he said that's the most common source of leaks. the water condensate corrodes through those coils. he said it would have cost around $500 more if they needed to be replaced, but he did not say how much of that was parts or labor

the FIRST thing he tried was putting some new start and run capacitors on the outdoor condenser unit's motor. he said those go bad a lot and only cost a few dollars to replace. when it still wouldn't run he took the enclosure halfway apart and hooked up a thing that could tell you if the motor coils were still okay, and they weren't. You can't just replace the motor because of the way the things are built "inside" themselves

this guy was the son of the local town AC repair guy who has known my family for 50+ years, so I doubt I got shafted.
he (the son) won't even accept new clients anymore because when his dad retired a couple years back there was already too many people calling him.

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Hey guys, what is a good way to make your front door breaching-proof? Against criminals of course.

I know how to protect it against a battering ram many burglers these days use by having a large (expandable) pole of hardend steel that fits between the door and the wall behind it, which protects it against brute force, but how about criminals who would want to use a chainsaw to enter your cozy home?

I was thinking about making an inner wall at the inside of the door filled with small metal balls, so when thiefs try to saw open your door this shit would shoot thousands of small metal balls around, which might scare them off.

However, i'm not quite sure if this is effective. So i've been thinking, maybe there is a way to have something at the inside of the door like something tougher than a chainsaw that when cut into would jam the saw or even break the chain. Maybe metal strings of titanium? What would be strong enough?

Also what is a good way to make a very big electro magnet that you can trigger using a panic button that would fry your computer and harddrives in an instant in case these burglers are out for your own personal financial digital files?

Thanks for brainstorming with me /diy/ it's for a school subject btw.
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Get SOLID METAL DOORS, and SOLID FRAMES for said doors. Make sure the walls are composite materials, combination of wood/drywall/concrete/steel/sheet metal. Solid concrete/stone foundation. EXPENSIVE.
Bonus for having a house/building in this day and age that will outlast most companies until demolition is brought in. Steps leading up to all doors help to prevent battering rams effectiveness. Moats help to prevent ease of access to sides of house(gators in Florida/snakes) Solid metal slide locks and cross bars, built into the door and behind said doors. Windows will need to be composite glass/plastic with metal bars/frames. Electricity is illegal except for properly labeled and setup/payed for fencing. Solid foundations help prevent tunneling/digging under.

But one of the greatest protections is appearance/information control.
Have internal storage for said water/treatment so you don't die of dehydration/poisoning of your water supply villain SIR. Ten or more steps UP to each door helps to reduce usable leverage against said entry points. Moats help to prevent good footing for said machinery to breach walls/doors/windows. Just have to protect from draining/shit/piss/chemicals.
also doesn't cover inherant weakness of internet connectivity, wireless in all its current wifi forms is almost instantly hacked/watchable. Wired the same because of service provider backdoors and router hacks for every router under the sun. Real reason major money/financial groups use microwave transmission for sensitive money transfers is that its EASY and FAST to track ANY attempts to get at said data streams. Hard to explain a microwave dish/transmitter in the controlled airspace of the data transfer area.

Use a decoy hard drive. Put the real hard drive in a location that's not physically accessible and access it wirelessly.

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what was your most recent accident diy?

I cut my finger real deep on a jigsaw that was not even turned on

I was on a scissor lift piecing in a sheet of plywood around some pipes and other shit I had a sheet of plywood on the rails I was marking with the saw laying on top
I reached over for my speed square without looking and dragged my pinky right across the blade
started to bleed pretty good so I wrapped it up with some electrical tape and went on with the day
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I do maintenance for a store and all the employees tend to think my tool closet is fair game.
You tried to murder a small boy?
Using metal strapping to secure some shelving to the wall. it sliced through my palms and fingertips a number of times before I even noticed the blood.

Hurts like a bitch.
>working on 4cyl toyota
>replacing oil pump and crankshaft timing seal.
>had just got timing belt off
>unbolting oil pump and my hand smashes into something when bolt comes free

It was sharp, half inch cut on knuckle to the bone.
Had to get 5 stitches.
Sucked, the car just sat disassembled for a while.
Was opening a can of dog food and the lid slipped and went halfway into my finger

>Ladies love it

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How exactly do I make my carpet in my new house look brand new? I'm not seeing any stains, and vacuuming just makes this happen again after a few days.

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So I found this knife. I thought it would be fun to fix it up a bit. I've never restored anything before so I'm not sure where to start.
The blade doesn't lock into place. How would I fix that on a knife with no screws?
Any advice you can give would be great.
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Just tap it a bit with a hammer and wood block to tighten it.
In all likelihood the locking bar is made out of shit and the tooth on the locking bar is rounded out. You could knock out the center pin, copy it out of a new bit of metal, tweak the tooth till it engages right, then put in a new brass pin.

A bit of work for sure, but you'll learn something.
sup ethan

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nigger hands.
underrated post
Fornicate profusely. Actually I do drink but the joke wouldn't have worked as well otherwise.
Un tornillo

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So my table saw motor keeps tripping my fucking breaker then its thermal switch. don't get me wrong I'm trying to run it on a 15 amp outlet when the motor itself eats up 14.8 amp. but that's max load?? I can turn the damn thing on for 30 seconds, it clicks off -breaker trips. then head over the to breaker, off - on. walk back over to the motor and flip the switch again, it will go for another 30-50 seconds before it shuts off again, but its not shutting off at the breaker the thermal switch built into the motor shuts it off...

I just replaced the bearings in the damn thing and cleaned off as much saw dust as I could get at. it does this all by itself, no load either just the motor running. its an induction motor too, no bushings.

My question is not so much about the breaker as why the damn thing is getting hot, well over 120 degrees F on the ouside shell!

It is hooked up to a 12 gauge extension cord. but that's most likely whats causing the breaker to trip. I know I should have a good 10 gauge, but them shits are expensive!
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Okay I just finished polishing the shaft and went to try something. I didn't reinstall the springs and started the motor. The weights stayed open and it ran fine. But also my breaker (at the wall) tripped still after 30 seconds.

The motor is under no load. I believe the max watts (700watts or so = 1hp and it's a 1 hp motor) the motorisstill getting hot.. so here's where I'm at. Either the motors coils are fucked up and I just can't see them past the epoxy binder. Or my wall socket isn't putting out for what its rated too and the voltage isn't getting high enough to spin the motor at the rpm its suppose to to open the switch. And that's why the breaker is going off during start ups. Or its something else fucked with the motor causing a short. Either way I'm about to take a littl 30cc weed eater motor and spin the saw with it.. I can use my shitty wall outlet for running a psu fan to keep it cool... If I can even handle that.
You didn't respond to this question
>The contacts should be open now (disassembled state).
>Can you see that they are not touching?
if the breaker is getting that hot then it is going bad or is bad. replace it, its no hard to do. Mine was doing the same thing minus mine was just getting warm not hot. Replaced it and now its fine i run a 10" table saw (crapsman professional) on 110 and have no problems after the breaker was replace and its a 15 amp breaker. now if i turn the lights on and the radio and start the table saw and a 15 gallon shop vac all at the same time then it may kick but only 1 out of 10 times.
Normal household 15 amp circuits are not meant to run a continuous load at 15 amps. Motors have a few variables that affect their performance, here's a few.

Voltage: If your extension cord is too light of guage you will get more drop per amp, per foot.

Power Factor: This is the ratio of Volt Amps (VA) compared to the Vars. Vars are the reactive force of the motor on the power supply. To lower the vars and in effect increase the power factor motors have capacitors installed in parallel.

The probable fix:
There are special motor breakers that cost an arm and a leg, but running a 20 amp circuit might be the most effective and safe bet.

Why a 15 amp household breaker pops:
all household breakers are rated for non continuous loads. This means that they can only handle 80% of their rating for a certain amount of time. 15 amp breakers really work for 12 amps, and 20 amp breakers will work up to 16 amps continuous.
my problem is if I'm gonna hire an electrician to install whole new wiring. I want it to my back porch [where theres already an outlet in the concrete wall but only a 15 amp 120volt crapzoid outlet]

and have it a 220volt 50amp outlet.

but I don't feel like paying some sparky $1,200 to run maybe 100 feet of line. and install a breaker. and im sure as hell not dicking around with 220 volt 50 amps myself. plus it has to be county approved, im not staying in this house for ever and they inspect dodgy wiring setups to make sure they're to code.

do I sound like someone who can install wiring to code?! I hope not.

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I have a fey questions I was hoping you guys could answer.
I'm taking care of my 73 year-old dad with dementia. He opens and closes the fridge and freezer 30+ times a day and just stares for about 10 seconds and then walks away to only repeat it every half hour...ALL DAY!
>Would adding frozen water bottles, or gallon jugs into the freezer help the freezer and fridge to not go through so much strain and wear and tear? Would it help or hinder the freezer?
> Does keeping ice frozen in a freezer require more energy than if the freezer had no ice in it? Or is it easier on the refrigeration system if the fridge/freezer were empty?
>In other words, if you tested Kilowatt hours on X freezer that's empty and Y freezer that's full of already frozen items, which would use more power to run at identical settings for 24 hours?
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Why wouldn't they make double walled and vacuum sealed glass doors?
Take the poor guy out for a walk you ass hole
The damn VA. Protest their decision OP. You will probably win now.

I have bad news for you, anon.
Fuck you. You're out of your league, son.

Has anyone ever modded a Squier Bronco Bass? If so how did it turn out?
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If you want to try a simple non invasive mod that is reversible.
You can add a push/pull pot for series/parallel.
Your pickups are wired in parallel which can give you a broader frequency range but in series they can be hum canceling and have more output. Or just wire them like that with out a push/pull it's up to you.
Ive done it to J basses and it sounds great.
This is the best value mod imho, cheap and effective. Switching to quality tone caps such as Orange Drops is easy to do too, but useless if you never use tone controls

Also, rounding fret ends can make a budget instrument feel like a million bucks, but this falls into setup territory
Took a squire vintage modified jazz bass and dropped in bartolini dual coil j-bass pickups, applied a cyanoacylate coating on the fingerboard, sounds like sex. Oh, also removed all squire logos from it, had the owner of the recording studio my band records at compliment its sound. I've also defretted multiple basses and a guitar, all with multiple different coatings over the fingerboard to sharpen sound and reduce wear. Might post some pics soon.
>Slowest Board
This isn't /3/, man.
i bet you're fun at parties.

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What kind of PICO PSU do I need for an old Pentium III motherboard? Right now it has a 150 watt PSU which is probably more than enough. It has an old 733mhz Pentium III.
Here is what I know about the mobo:

ATX power supply connector
+12V power source for DC fan
3.3V unbuffered PC100 SDRAM

I've included a pic of the psu I'm using now

I don't fucking know what I need.
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wot u using, anon?

- idle curiosity, indulge me. TIA.
How the fuck are computers connected to DIY? And what happened to technology. Is this a post from 1980? Fucking hell!
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Somebody did not take their meds today!!!
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See, little Jimmy, computers used to be the size of briefcases and the screen wasn't attached to it like your little iPad.

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Homemade RC planes and full sized planes thread.

Here we discuss about method and we ask questions.

I'm too poor to make a plane myself so I will just discuss about it.
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I think it would work, but there would be little to no advantage compared to open-close valve, because it wouldn't rotate smoothly anyway.
It's easier to build
i dont know i just sort of learned it just by watching random rc videos or lurking on some forums.
i suggest starting with flitetest they have pretty good beginner series, and you will find your way from there.
that looks sick as fuck, also i have wheels like that on my old Easysport .40
How slow could you guys get it?

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Old Thread >>797509

>open source community

>buyfag buyers guide

>basic 3d printing FAQs

>what kind of filament do I want

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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ABS doesnt like active cooling
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bullshit. ABS likes it more than PLA, the trick is to throttle it down to like 10% of what PLA would need

i know because i print active cooled ABS and it's the best prints i can achieve without a heat chamber. Pic related, try printing that without active cooling and you will get a mess
please continue
You need to fine tune your temps better

If you need light cooling, what do you think would happen in a heat chamber?
Would it be advisable/worthwhile to go balls deep and buy two 3ft sections of drill rod to upgrade one of my axes to ~900mm?

It's a printrbot simple 1401 if that makes any difference

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