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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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I need to weld this on my old steel bike. Where can I get thet done, maybe a car bodyshop?
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It does look welded, but lugged steel frame bikes are brazed so I'm guessing this is a cheaper frame? A properly brazed joint there will hold up better than those little spots. Ask at a good bike shop if they know anyone who still brazes.
Don't braze it. That's only a way of sealing and is not structural. Go for a mig or tig weld. See auto repair, sheet metal fab, boiler maker it any other trade that witness with metal
that entire bike was brazed
by your logic, glue is also not structural.
What? Do you know what brazing is?
There's a billion bikes out there with brazed joints.

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Old one is slipping, new /QTDDTOT/ ahoy.

How does /diy/ get wood? These are parts of a project I intend to make. I know the colours and tones I'm after but I have no idea what timbers would do the job. Halp?
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Shit drawings I know, but I was thinking either of these if it were made of wood. Pic is the structure that would hold the weight up. 2nd seems more stable where the first would be wedged apart by the weights.
Also, here's some neat stuff you can make. It's almost interchangeable with pixel art so you can look up either for inspiration.

Thank you very much! Do you know that feeling if something is on the tip of your tongue for days? You ended that agonizing state, thanks!
Actually, never mind that website. I pulled it up from my bookmarks but it looks like it's turned to shit.
I need to regulate pressure around 10 psi max to down in the 0-2 psi range on 1/4" tubing, real accurately too. Is there some sort of psi gauge and valve I can look into for this? I don't know what it would be called but I just can't find how to fine tune the pressure while also getting a read on how much pressure is there.

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>old thread - Last OP literally gave up its been dead so long its not in the archive anymore

>open source community

>buyfag buyers guide
Any number of Reprap kits out there

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)

>what kind of filament do I want

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>You're telling me that buying a knockoff from china is going to get me a good-quality printer? For less than I can source myself?

It's going to get you a better printer than a 200$ one you source yourself yes. Unless you happen to either have a CNC machine or a 3D Printer, many printers will need custom parts that are generally 3d printed.
>The point is that, even from JUST PARTS, it's fucking prohibitively expensive to get a good printer. You can't get a decent printer for under $1000, EVEN INCLUDING YOUR OWN FUCKING SCRAP MATERIALS, according to everyone in this thread
But it isn't, and in the first place, who cares what people say in the thread? You should stop being stupid and do your own research. I recently made an i3 clone with a full alu frame and openbuilds-like rails for like $200, just by buying everything from China, and I don't see any quality issues. I think it's safe to say that it's in that 50 micron accuracy range (at default speeds), and if you went all out and got supported rails and ballscrews, for another $250, at $500, you could have a super-accurate printer, one that is better than whatever you buy at $1k.
You can't go under $200 simply because that's how prices are today. You have to use scrap to get under $200.
>aluminum for the frame - $50 [may be more or less depending on where you live]
>5 stepper motors at $10 each - $50
>DRV8825 stepper drivers x5 - $6
>Arduino Mega - $7
>RAMPS 1.4 - $7
>LCD for RAMPS - $9
>360W PSU - $20
>belts and belt accessories - $10
>shaft couplers, Z axis screws, nuts - ~$10-$15
>chink e3d clone - $10
>metal extruder - $10

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Anyone else with a Duplicator i3 changed from the Melzi board? Is it worth it?
Uhhh, just from the prices you listed, it's already $214, plus some other crap you don't have prices for. Can't you do math? I asked for a sub $200 printer. Try again.
And I explicitly told you that you can't do sub-$200 because these are all things that you need for which no cheaper alternatives exist, but if you're as dense as you appear then you can't even hope for these prices.

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ITT: We discuss the television show 'Battlebots' on ABC.

Look for our resident MIT builder / complete nerd, Botty McBotFucker !!QSvwrQMMkoH

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It's kind of a joke to me, really. I'll watch it, but I fast-forward through the talk-talk-talk, I don't care about their backgrounds or whatever shit they have to say, I just want to see mechanical carnage.

I remember the original 'Battlebots' that was on, what TLC or Discovery Channel? I forget now.. nothing much has changed since then, design-wise. There are a handful of proven designs, and those always win. On THIS show, they upped the ante a little, by having some flying contraptions (which never do shit) and allowing things like fire (which also really doesn't do shit, either). There are always dumbshits with fancy-ass looking contraptions, that go up against the more conventional, proven designs, and get systematically dismanted in a matter of seconds. There's only been one or two instances where my predictions on outcome were wrong, and they were because someone either had better tactical sense than the other guy, or someone cheaped out on their vehicle and got the crap kicked out it for their trouble.

Really it comes down to heavy-spinny-thing 'bots, and flipper-bots (of various kinds). Both are hard to beat. Of course this last week there was some fool with a nice, heavy-duty spinny-thing weapon.. mounted on a base that was WAY TOO FUCKING LIGHT, and as soon as it was up to speed and made a first attack, it LITERALLY went flying across the room. Dumbass.

You want to make an unstoppable 'bot for something like this? Heavy, hardened, high-speed, well-supported spinning weapon, mounted on a nice, thick, heavy base, with hidden wheels, and nice thick armor on the sides. It's like a Viking berzerker warrior with a battleaxe; you get that thing up to speed before anyone can get inside your weapons range, and it's a foregone conclusion that anyone coming near enough is going to get torn to pieces.

Of course that's too boring for network television, so they'd probably reject your application.
That was chromefly vs bronco. I guess another problem was that the spinning blades were mounted directly to the motors and fixed only on one side. Also why you'd use two light ones instead of one heavy is besides me.

Also you could wee that the blades broke on the points where they made holes in them to lower the weight.
nevermind, the blades were fixed on both sides. But the upper bearing really was almost worthless
>Heavy, hardened, high-speed, well-supported spinning weapon, mounted on a nice, thick, heavy base, with hidden wheels, and nice thick armor on the sides. It's like a Viking berzerker warrior with a battleaxe; you get that thing up to speed before anyone can get inside your weapons range, and it's a foregone conclusion that anyone coming near enough is going to get torn to pieces.
So a typical drum spinner then?
The true silly part was directly mounting to motors. Robots such as Last Rites break similar E Tek style motors despite theirs weapon being chain driven, there was no way in hell that one would survive a direct mount.

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Are there speaker specialist or tutorials?
I am looking for the basis, as I plan to keep inside hollow and add there secret small garden.
Will most likely build stereo speakers with 2 active subs built in and 3-way splitter for the speakers.
I aim to build decent sounding speaker.
Planned measurements: 30x30x130cm
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I just make fast check on these speakers you listed out here to find local equivalents... they are all woofer speakers and no tweeter?
The big one is a woofer. The middle one plays midbass, so midrange and some bass. The small one is a dome tweeter.
I mean 2 smaller speakers on list are both mid woofers

Nope definitely a tweeter
OK sorry my fuck up, looked up local stuff, would you like to browse trough this producer stuff?
Thing is, producer have only few tweeters resonance frequency measured, and none have exactly 1.0kHz, few are between 1.1-1.3 range, if you want here is producer website, however checking for tweeter resonance frequency have to be made manually in each specific speaker as this is not listed in their catalog. Anyway here:
website http://www.tonsilproducent.pl/en/assembly-speakers
catalog www.tonsilproducent.pl/files/katalog-EN.pdf
And here is tweeters mash-up, so you can see their spectrum and resonance http://docdro.id/dyDflaG

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Hello /diy/! I need some ideas of something interesting/cool I could create with molten aluminium! As you guys have probably already seen before I have built a mini foundry out of a bucket and some plaster of Paris.

>Any ideas of what I could cast would be great!
>Something that can easily be carved from Styrofoam preferably

So far I've seen/thought up:
>Slingshot handle
>Whittling some figurines such as a dolphin for example from some styrofoam

... And thats about it! Any ideas anons?
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The internet is full of casting resources and forums. If you want to cast custom bike parts check out chopper forums for ideas. Chop Cult is a good one. There aren't enough custom Jap bike parts, for example single-carb manifolds etc so you might have a small market if you get gud.

/diy/ metalworking questions tend to come from peeps who don't know about forums which are inherently better resources due to expertise pool and data retention.



Sounds like a penis would work just fine

Hey this is 4chan why has nobody suggested a dildo yet
Make a set of toy building blocks. You know some cubes and rectangular prisms and the triangle blocks and the little arches and the half circles. That would be dope
I'm obnoxiously picky when it comes to typing, but even I type 'prolly' occasionally. At least for me, it's a remnant of AIM chats and having to type fast to keep up.
Not OP, You just gave me an idea for my nephews birthday, Thanks!

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I have an awful lot of disks but I don't know what do with them.
I searched a little if I can do something useful but everything I see is some art attack kind autistic shit. Idon't want to make trash.
any ideas please? otherwise I'll dump them.
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microwave exploder
What would happen if you glued a cd to the bottom of a plate? Would the person notice before putting it in?
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OP here.
I know nothing about the other post. Probably Anon didn't look at the catalog before posting
Try this, looks linda cool

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Is titanium the ultimate meme metal?

Generally most stuff on kickstarter is shit, but the titanium products are just fucking horribly unoriginal and useless hip shit.
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>"meme" metals

do you guys even material science? everything has an appropriate application in which it is suited best

kickstarter is the problem

titanium is exelent in a lead-free solder enviroment. the only metal that hasnt eroded(?) away on me in the solder tank, it has a very hard time getting wet so it is perfect
Titanium is biocompatible (doesn't corrode and bone can attach firmly to it), so that's one of the niche applications where it's entirely suitable.
Titanium isn't a meme metal. Among other uses, is has excellent strength to weight, so it has applications where less weight is an asset. But titanium belt buckle and pencil? Unless you're some AIDS faggot who lost all his muscle...
The bottom on the Titanium market will fall out in 2018 because the cambridge process will become public domain, so it can be done without ridiculous licensing fees
The soviets used in in subs and ballistic armour. It makes good armour because an alloy with similar properties to steel will be quite a bit lighter, but afaik its been superseded by ceramic plates

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How effective is this? I'm tempted to try it. I have no money for a window air conditioner, and I don't want it to destroy my electric bill.

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You are acting like the evaporation does not absorb any heat, which is LOLINCORRECT, and so your math is all sorts of fucking gay.
this isn't a true swamp cooler, it isn't blowing air over wet membrane to promote evaporation, it's blowing into a pile of ice... which will melt.. then provide a very minimal amount of cooling as it evaporates the water that has pooled at the bottom... with so little surface area your going to have to run the thing for a VERY long time to properly evaporate the water in the bucket and quite frankly aint nobody got time for that... also the heat absorbed in this manner is much less than that absorbed by melting the ice in the first place... so my math is LOLCLOSEENOUGH, and either way it's a fucking post on 4chan not a scientific study of this.
Don't do it in a closed environment otherwise you will die of co2 poisoning, you want know what hit you, you would start to get sleepy then fall asleep and never wake up
Swamp coolers work fucking great and are cheap as chips.

I'm not defending ops bucket bs, but i had a big boy swamp cooler cooling a 1600 sq ft house for years and it was great, and literally thousands of dollars cheaper than what my friends were paying
>Exactly. "Muh swamp cooler" needs to be on the standard meme list and bingo card right next to the crab meat. Swamp coolers are ridiculous pieces of shit.
Swamp coolers work pretty well, in arid/desert environments--that is, places with very high temperatures and very low ambient humidity.
They both cool the air, and put a lot of humidity into it--which is doubly nice in that instance.
Some houses in these regions even have swap coolers integrated into the central AC systems.

Swamp coolers do NOT work in humid environments, any better than a plain fan would.

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Hey, /diy/, first time posting here.

Here is a gimmicky camera with a flippable lens. I don't do anything with it, so I wanna spice it up a little. Does anyone think this can be modded or be made to look cooler?
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I don't believe you.
put an apple sticker on it
>made to look cooler?
>put an apple sticker on it
This should have been the first reply.
Spice things up? I hear you baby, take the capacitor out and nipple, clit and dick stocks
The camera is called a "bloggie" I have one to. It has a lens that flips up and an attachment that lets you film 360° video.

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Hi guys, do you have any advice on which breakout board / motion controller to buy for my mini diy carving cnc milling machine?
What are pros/cons with simple parallel port boards, and which one should I buy?

I was looking "smooth stepper" clone like this in the picture, but do I really need one (they are too expensive, I could get arduino set for that money...). Anyway, any advice?
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I am looking into some entry level cnc machines myself right now, I came across some Chinese variants that have good frames but those archaic parallel port interfaces. I am thinking of marrying a tinyG for its amazing motion control with some beefier controllers. the ones onboard the tinyG would fail to drive even modest nema23 motors. My only gripe is that the only good software for the tinyg is web based.
>I am looking into some entry level cnc machines myself right now, I came across some Chinese variants that have good frames but those archaic parallel port interfaces
(I am the guy who wants to [eventually] build his own USB-based setup...)

The problem with "being stuck with parallel port" is that a lot of CAM software doesn't support anything else. The software doesn't have an in-program option to use any kind of USB-port controller,,,,, That's why the other guy said "decide on what software you want to run first, and then look for a controller that will work with it".

If you want something that is easy to get running right away, don't do anything yourself. Just use what most other people use (however annoying it may be).

Also a warning with CNC controller boards from China: sometimes the hardware (and the price!) looks really nice, but the lack of documentation/lack of product support/hardware and software bugs kill the concept.

>Protip. Ardu results will be poor & slower in comparison to the cheap serial units from ebay. Whats more, your software will be shit, given you will have to keep rewriting it everytime the free crap you rely on is updated, eg extra linefeeds or decimals added into code generated by inkskape or whatever your running to create.
There won't be no Inkscape....
I am planning on writing one program to do it all.
The program will be what I use to generate CAD files, the CAD file will already contain general data describing a toolpath, and that data will be interpreted by the PC in real-time and sent to the CNC machine to actually cut.

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Yeah, I am looking at one of these things from the far east, but I don't feel like dealing with parallel port software (it would likely be mach3 or linuxcnc) I was planning on gutting the electronics for the shit in my earlier pic >>1027534
as well as upgrade the motors to ones with 400 steps/rev for higher resolution (my main use will be pcb milling)

TinyG (the controller board) has a good community behind it and it is in another league than tard-uino based controllers. The controller next to it even supports better microstepping and higher current capability than the onboard controllers, as well as active breaking and the like. Almost all the stepper driver boards are based off a toshiba chip and all operate similarly.
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forgot pic
Same guy from before. Put simply, ive been playing with this shit for around 20 years, since sperry days, both sw and hw dev.

If as you infer, you are capable of development of software solutions to run this, and hardware dev to implement your sw solution, your amazing. Seriously. Lets consider the hundreds of cumulative man hours of dev in just the gear cutting solution of the gear cutting sources for inkscapes gcode tools, and then the parsing and manipulation of codes itself.
I recently spent around 100 hours coding a solution for converting gcode from generic codes to suit a custom controllers codes from around 15 years ago, maxed out at win xp & vesa connectors. Then when it was finished, client decided to take initial recommendation and update hw to modern serial comms from custom vesa shit.

As i said in the second or whatever post, listen fucker. Accept your abilities, based in your price point. Unless your spending $$, which you arent based on your posts, your stuck with serial and probably pirate sw. That said, there are reasons, and limitations as ive said despite your constant ramblings about arduo and usb bandwidths, that make serial a more suitable port for this based on cost.

Put simply, either :
A) spend $$ and stop shitposting
B) spend fa, go serial, stop shitposting
C) keep shitposting and take it to /b/

Lets be honest pal. Your like the twat that wants to make a arduo dev to pick locks, to open his mothers car that the keys were lost to and his arthritic dog is locked in. Not happening /b/ro.

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I've been thinking about buying a robomower, but i have multiple lawns completely separated from each other. Does anyone have any experience or ideas regarding this? I was thinking about tunnels or ramps to connect them.
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I can not find a zero turn mower for over 10k
I dont know where the hell you are getting your gold plated lawn mower with a fully blown v8
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Holy shit, my lawn isn't big enough to do it but I wish I could mow in a labyrinth pattern, it would be such a cool meditative experience.
Why not use your lawn for something smart like a giant garden instead of doing Sisyphean retarded shit and mowing it?

Lawns are for idiots and rich, British aristocrats with too many Indian widows soliciting on their estates.

Then you get someone you know is experienced and pay them a reasonable rate.

You got acres of lawn and have it maintained? I know this is /diy/ but if you have that much shit of something you either need to be making money out of it to afford its maintenance or repurpose it.
There are no competent people where I live who can mow the lawn without destroying something. It is like an open air mental asylum here.

Yes, several acres of lawn with 100s of obstacles everywhere. It is a farm with multiple gardens and orchards. All the lawn waste gets composted and used to grow stuff.

Now stop talking about adult things like you are a kid who knows anything, child.

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what is your trade /diy/?

im a carpenter
I inspect wooden roller coasters and repair them
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Welder/fabricator here.

Currently working building above ground storm shelters/safe rooms.
how is it? I'm doing a pre-apprenticeship in electrical/HVAC&R and might end up doing what you're doing. Fuck any MILFs?
Based neet. Might apply at a stair or truss manufacturer later
Apprentice in furniture making. Fun little job with plenty of details to remember.

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Is there a way to remove those Pikachus and Pokemon logo without damaging the paint?
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>Ive had to do this numerous times. What works quickly and easily is the kicker/accelerator for CA glue. Try it on a test bunny first but it should spray on and just wipe off once the first layer is loose.


or acetone free polish remover

or magic eraser

Everyone in this thread is fucking stupid, you bunch of white slave niggers.
And he can buy a helicopter to fly 4 miles to work and train mice to carry his shoes to his bedside!
Any electronic device with integrated circuits or transistors that is not shielded will not survive a microwave.
No shit, really?
Garbage. Anybody knows the perforated metal of the microwave doors, combined with that of the casing produce a faraday shielding effect, rendering microwave radiation null.

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