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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

give me the strength to start working on that huge project I have in mind
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
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Actually you should rather use a tower crane for such a "huge project"
You're doing it all wrong. A half ton truck should be more than enough to move her around.
Handmade harpoons aren't that difficult.
Give me a project to work on.
mine bitcoins and send them to me.

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Old thread is past bump limit.

Has anyone used pic related on tie rod ends or ball joints? If used properly does it not damage either part? And do you think this is better or worse than the types where you turn a bolt to press the part out?
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It is entirely up to who is building the unit and what kind of stuff they use. Last place we built the customer wanted wall vents, so we gave them wall vents. Before that, we did ceiling vents because the house was on a slab and the HVAC was on the roof, so it made sense.
Hi sqt, I'm back for another round of stupid questions. Today I'd like to ask about protecting unprotected lithium ion batteries. Particularly, I'd like to talk about protecting 4 in parallel. So I know you can buy circuits that do this already, but I was wondering about actually doing this myself. Putting thermal buildup aside (I'd solve that later) the problems I see people talking about is batteries discharging too quickly (like they're hooked up to a short), battery balancing where one battery tries to charge another that is lower voltage or malfunctioning (potential short) or drawing a lithium ion battery lower than the 3 volt to 2.5 volt range.

[part 1/2]
[part 2/2]

So my scenario is as follows. I have a circuit that will supposedly stop drawing current if the voltage fed into it is lower than 2.9 to 2.5 volts. I haven't tested this yet, but for the sake of argument lets say it works. what if I hook up 4 lithium ion batteries in parallel to supply power to this circuit? And what if I put a fuse rated lower than the batteries max sustained discharge in series with each battery? This should mean that if there were any kind of short (including one of the other batteries in parallel) that the remaining batteries would be cut off from the circuit and thus not explode. It should also protect them from any kind of potential overdraw should anything else go wrong which will eliminate the cascade effect parallel batteries suffer from. Now, none of these things solve the battery voltage balancing, so I was thinking of putting a diode in series with each battery and fuse combo so that none of the batteries can charge others. At the same time, this means each battery will suffer a 0.7 volt drop. Thus, one of my fully charged lithium ions at ~4.2 volts will actually output 3.5 volts to the circuit when fully charged. This drop should give me a little safety when discharging the batteries. In a worst case scenario, my circuit cuts the current when fed anything below 2.5 volts. If the diodes 0.7 volt drop is taken into account, this means current will stop being drawn when the batteries are at 2.5v + 0.7v = 3.2v. So I should have them protected from all 3 types of lithium ion abuse.

Sorry if this is a bit long, but I'd really rather not have batteries blow up in my face so I figured I'd include everything. And yes, this is my first time working with lithium ion batteries.
You won't come across problems with cell balancing between parallel cells unless they're at different levels of charge when you put them together, or if you charge/discharge them quickly enough so that the voltage drop in the wires from cell to cell is significant. Since the latter will never happen without overheating the cells anyway, you'll only come across cell balancing as a problem if your cells are individually removable from the charger, which brings up other problems such as detecting how many cells are present and therefore how much current to charge them with, hence why devices that use multiple cells typically keep the cells internally and have their own charging and protection circuitry.

Now 2.9-2.5V is too low, you should stop at 3.2V. A simple arrangement would be to have some sort of low power, low value voltage reference and a voltage divider from the cell output, and feed them into a comparator that switches off a FET in series with the output load when the voltage across the divider is below that of the reference. You'd do the same thing to limit current, but by measuring voltage across a current shunt instead, but since the FET here will be used like a linear regulator when it's limiting current, it has the potential to be wasting a significant amount of heat, and for this reason it's a good idea to put an overload LED on the circuit to warn you when you short something. The problem here lies with getting a comparator and reference that will run off 3V and use barely any power in standby. The idea of putting a fuse, or current-shunt powered regulator as described above, on each cell is a good one as it stops one cell from taking all the load current if it happens to be different from any of the other cells, but if you bought them all new at once and they're the same model you shouldn't need to bother, especially if you won't be drawing too much current. cont.
The main problem with the arrangement of individual current overloads is if you plan on using the battery bank when one of the cells is being overladed. In the most extreme scenario, you have cells with different effective capacities, and hence one will draw more current than the others. If this puts the highest-drain cell above the current limit, its fuse will blow, causing the load to be spread among the other cells. If this is too much current for the remaining cells to handle, their fuses will all blow in quick succession. Assuming you use the FET system instead, you'll be limiting the output voltage of each cell to prevent the current from going too high, but doing this will mean some cells will drain to different voltages than others, causing them to want to rebalance themselves as mentioned previously. If you're not planning on giving the cells a hot supper and you picked them from the same batch then this shouldn't be a problem, but if you are I'd give each cell its own current shunt, but have only one FET to limit the total output current until the one overburdened cell is no longer being drained too much, hence keeping all the cells' voltages equal. If you do this, then none of the batteries will ever be drained to different voltages, assuming your current shunts aren't too anaemic, and you should never have current flowing from one cell into another. Now note that by using diodes on each cell you can't actually charge them, and that 0.7V drop is only when you're drawing a significant current; in an extreme example, the diode has a voltage drop of 0V when the current is 0A. So you will be able to drain the cells below 3.2V this way with a current in the order of a few mA. You'll have to calculate using the IV curve of a similar diode and the discharge curve of the cells whether this current will be significant. cont.

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>cockroach is still alive after 24 hours in the diatomaceous earth chamber

did I get memed?
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>killing hordes of animals by basically make them walk through piles of broken glass until they bleed to death is "hippie nonsense"
Find every crack and fill it with matching color caulk. Under sinks, around pipes, everywhere. Put boric acid in the refrigerator drip pan ( and vacuum under there while your down there).

If there is no food, they will eat any paper and sip condensation off pipes, so spay the pipes.
I have a thread-relevant situation:

Is there any reason why the fuck there would suddenly be a fuckton of horse flies in my house? This literally happened overnight. I haven't seen one since I moved in a year ago and just today I've killed nearly 10 of them. I don't even know how more are still getting in. Is there any easy way to get rid of them? I've been chasing them down with a bottle of bleach spray to stun them and a shoe to smash them.
Flies lay eggs on rotting things. Have a dead squirrel in the attic?

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I don't have any solar eclipse glasses /diy/ so I want to use sunglasses. But not just one, but a lot!

I'm tyring to figure how if there is a rating for welder goggles, because it's recommended that you use Welder goggles #14. However I honestly can't find any real mathematical measurement that determines the shade value of these various googles so I can find how many pairs of sun glasses are required to mimic the solar eclipse goggles or #14 welder goggles.

I don't want to look in a box to see a white dot move. I can watch a white dot in a box move around anyday
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.

Ex-CWI, a shade 14 is pretty rare, usually Mechanized GMA Spray or Air Arcing, so are usually special order. Also, if you do find one, like in an old tool box, you gotta make sure its not scratched.

You can't take a no. 10 and a no. 4 combined its not the same.

The ones sold at most places are like No. 10 or 11 so watch out for the ones you buy at reputable places. Harbor Freight I would avoid at all costs.

>13 or darker is safe enough. Also, you CAN add up welding glass, using the formula S(sum) = S1 + S2 -1. S(sum) should be greater than or equal to 13
I plan to stare at the sun all day to get on neetbux and disability.
I've just purchased a space blanket at the local Dollar tree, cut out a section and folded it up 2 or three times. Sunglasses underneath to protect against uv, and you've saved your money from the jews
Fuck off retard. This eclipse has been predicted down to the millisecond since before you were born. If you couldn't be bothered to pick up a $2 pair of viewing glasses before they all went out of stock you can get fucked.

It was less than $60 for the pair of 10x solar binoculars I bought, and as soon as the eclipse if over I just unscrew the filters and then have a pair of regular binoculars. But that's because I have the ability to plan ahead more than the next 3 days of my life.

Dumbass, you're going to go blind AND you've given your money to the spaceblanket jews.

Looks like eclipse glasses are pretty much sold out everywhere, and pinhole cameras are retarded.

Nasa says you need shade 14 or higher welder's lenses to look at the sun.

I have a few shade 8 welder's lenses lying around, so I dug around online to see if two layers of shade 8 lenses would equal one shade 16 lens.

Turns out if you double up lenses, you need to subtract 1 from the summation of the two shades you used. So two layers of shade 8 lenses would be 8 + 8 - 1 = Shade 15. Should be good to look at the sun with, I'll be trying it out tomorrow AM when the sun is up.

Anyway that's where I am at anons? Question though, can these lenses be cut like any normal piece of glass? I'd like to cut up some nice square or round lenses and 3D print some cool frames.

Also post your /diy/ eclipse gear
14 replies omitted. Click here to view.
#14 comes from the certified photographic consultant standards. CPC always errs on the side of safety.

In reality, a 12 is fine, if a bit uncomfortable.
Way back when we just used a piece of glass and blackened it with carbon from a candle flame.
Got my welding glasses and mask, but probably will stick with the reflection method since I want to keep my eyesight.
went to a lot of home improvement, hardware, and welding supply places.

shade 5 lenses for days. Lots of auto darkening helmets too. though auto darkening helmets are useless for looking at the sun, even if they do go to 14.

found some 10 lenses at a welding shop.

one place had a sign on the door saying they had no eclipses glasses, helmets, or lenses.
TIG arcs are brighter and a welder's face is within inches of those.

I'll be stacking welding lenses on one of my spare helmets. Fuck glasses, they leak light.

BTW welding helmets are designed to hold not only their tinted lens, but have room for a clear cover lens in front and usually one in back to protect (sometimes expensive tinted glass) the tinted lens. There's room to stack tinted lenses without the clears for solar viewing.

Take my word for nothing and visit welding forums. Lens tech has been thoroughly tested by every safety agency and the non-chinkshit manufacturers. I studied it while running a welding school toolroom.

Poorfag method, grab an old fixed shad helmet from a pawn shop or thrift store, then get lenses from your local welding supply.

Shade # + Shade # -1 is an ancient formula. Welders sometimes stack tinted lenses though more for best clarity than protection.

I've looked at the sun as have many others with a Shade 10 but you want a darker tint to see details better. The correct tint is important for clarity. Plus or minus a number or two isn't critical and different welders perform better with different color and shade choices.

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Hello /diy/,

Buying my second home and this one will require a lot of repainting as it was inhabited by boomers - mostly interior stuff like walls and doors. Was hoping to use a sprayer like the Flexio 590 (need to buy still) and also be able to use air tools like a 1/2 inch impact to work on my car.

What's missing is a good portable (meaning, on wheels - not a pancake) compressor. What's your best recommendation for under $400?

Pic semi related.
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When you put it that way, yeah, guess I'm being kind of a cheap bastard. Thanks bro - sound advice.
OP here, one last question - if I get the Graco, is there any reason to also have the Flexio? Or should I not even bother getting one of those?
He's a rookie bro. He should go ahead and be ready to backroll it if necessary.

>if I get the Graco, is there any reason to also have the Flexio
I don't have hands-on experience with the handheld units. If you're doing detail work (cabinets, crown, trim), or smaller projects where you don't require a large quantity, I think that's where they shine.
Maybe someone else can chime in on that because that's a good question.
>If you're doing detail work (cabinets, crown, trim)

they make all types of tips for airless guns, and you can have a tiny fan or an enormous fan (if you machine is strong enough); you adjust the pressure to suit the paint and the tip.

the tip has two parameters: width of the fan and size of the orifice. you can have an 8 inch fan that sprays less gallons per minute than a different 8 inch fan. the viscosity of the paint or whatever also comes into play when choosing the correct tip.

Did some more digging, sounds like there's nothing I can't do with the Graco that I could do with the Flexio - but not the other way around. Yes, the Graco would be more of a PITA to use and/or clean on minor things, but I'm not really all that worried about it.

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Old thread >>1203902

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute.

>general info
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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i like my prusa i3 mk2. But im too depressed to put it too use.

Im not wanted anywhere. No print will ever change that.
>needing to be "wanted" instead of just living to entertain yourself
Don't think so. They said the same about smartphones, gaming and VR, and then SAO happened.
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I've had some problems printing my DnD minis lately with stringing. I think I've identified the culprit as poor cooling from the stock maker select v2's fan (which upon inspection is straight garbo). I've got a replacement coming and I just printed the most popular fan attachment for it. Will report back on Monday hopefully.

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Made a cup holder, its functional, unfortunately it's ugly as shit since I couldn't get the hot glue to flatten out.

I made the shape with aluminium foil wrapped around a glass, but glue stuck to the foil and I needed to heat it with a lighter to peel it off.

I tried smoothing it put using a glass filled with boiling water, but it wasn't hot enough.

Any ideas for how to pretty it up?
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Holy shit I laughed. That is so fucking bad, Jesus.
Congratulations on this gaping asshole of a project. Maybe give it 5 good coats of plasti dip
Ahh right, Plasti dip. That's probably what I should have used to begin with. I'll see if I can remove most of the glue and give it a spray.

Either that or I'll keep it as a visual reminder that drunkenly modifying furniture is never as good an idea as it seems when I'm drunk.
Not true in my case.
3D printer from a huge library

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So I've been NEET for the past for years and I recently got a good deal on a shitty plot of land, tiny as hell. It would work better as a garden plot but since I need a place to live besides this shitty basement which could be sweet with a ton of repair but will probably just be converted into a lapidary workshop, but I am gunna live in a she'd turned tinyhouse a lot like the one pictured. I'm gunna have the little ridge in front of the porch as storage for a little loft I'm going to sleep in. Advice to make this not such? I live in zone 7a so I was going to make sure to insulate but yeah what do
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Wages are drastically different in different parts of the country

Who would have thought?
You ever look at real estate and median wages of san fransisco?
Nigga I live in New Zealand. How the fuck did you pay 90k for services? You can easily get a septic tank+well for 30k even from a hardcore ripoff merchant. Now you don't have to connect either of those services the the boundary. You could easily /diy/ a sick totally off grid power set up for under 15k. And why the fuck would you dig a trench just for a fucking phone cable rather than just get wireless internet with no install cost? Congratulations, you can now build your house ANYWHERE on your section too.

What on earth did you spend 90k on?
I never spent 90k, the land I bought was an old dairyfarm. It had power and water. I just payed around 35k to get decent internet and septic (was allowed to excavate myself but septic company had to install it along with a bunch of council monkeys).
Well done!

It's still pussy.
SC anon here. There are many reasons I left the Northeast, and costs are sure as fuck one of them. Contractors have captive audiences in urban areas so they drive the cock in deep.

My water table is high enough for driven wells. Self and bros have done them for a few hundred bucks including the well pump.

If I had to live dirt cheap (well, I actually do since everything is paid off, so dirtier cheap) I'd start with a shed/trailer/box truck/whatever to keep the rain off then dig a pit and build an outhouse. Well would be next (and you can buy deepwell hand or foot pumps). After that would be a toilet in my structure connected underground to the outhouse.
Next would be mobile home pole with outlets.

How difficult would it be to make my own wireframe glasses, like pic related?
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>There are some websites that sell frames under 200$

the whole industry is a ripoff. for comparison, you can get a whole bike wheel for like $30.
It isn't all that difficult. You will need some specialized tools specifically used for wire bending. The wire costs quite a lot, when compared to other wire types. With some wire you can anneal it then harden it when you are done. Other types like some stainless steel with full hardness (spring steel) won't harden correctly if you anneal it and will start to anneal if you bend it too much. If you work with these types of materials doing other things, this will be much easier. If this is your first time with any type of wire bending then you may need to make up to 10 pairs before you get it right.

With some things, you can simply grind the glass itself to fit the frame, if you have a special frame. This also requires a specific toolset and skillset.

Whatever you end up doing, you must know that you will need full protective gear for any wire bending. Spring hardened wire is a REAL bitch to work with and you need special cutters for it. So choose your materials and tools correctly.
Framesvare dirt cheap, it's he prescription and lenses that cost
I just got two pairs from eyebuydirect for $38
Zennioptical is even better than eyebuydirect.

I need to make something to unplug and replug my internet remotely and be as small as possible.Any ideas how? I'm no engineer but if you guys could point me in the right direction that would be amazing
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But your health, anon. Do you want to die by 60 years old?
OP shoulda gave more info.
1. How good is his friend with computers
2. What time of day or night does he need the cameras off

If op's friend is not that good with computers, it shouldn't be a problem.

If op is eating at night when people are a sleep or when they are gone, it wont be a problem.

People buy shit a lot of the times and don't have a clue on most of it, how it works, or what you can all do with it.
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Or just buy your fucking oreos
I didn't expect this
>OP is such a fat and poor fuck he needs to stealthily steal his roommates food
Just go to the grocery store for fucks sake

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So I was using my sawzall on an handyman job and it quit on me (slowed down and smoked). I didn't think much of it as it was hot and I was cutting a lot of metal.

So I take it home and the thing starts for me with some fireworks. I also feel the thing spray me with debris. Opening the thing up I find about 1/2 cup of gravel in the housing. There's really no natural way that much fine gravel would have worked its way in. So I suspect foulplay from shitty ex coworkers.

After cleaning it, the thing won't turn for me. I bypassed the switch and speed control and fed it AC. I get a loud hum from the motor but no turn.
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
I have a solid hunch that I wired this incorrectly on the way back.
My wiring was right, but I was attempting to bypass by contacting the brushes directly. I needed to contact AC to the bottom brush and 3B for example. Anyway the armature and brushes and all run fine.

The switch and power cable test good.

That paints a bullseye right on the speed control. I wonder if this is just a voltage divider. Probably not since it's the size of about three quaters. Maybe it's PWM. I'll likely have to cave and buy the $13 part rather than rigging something up.
>speed control. I wonder if this is just a voltage divider
triac and diac with potentiometer/rheostat
A coil is shorted. It's trash, buy a new one.

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I want to start doing some pretty involved shit with my house's wiring. However, right now I have only basic knowledge like how to change outlets.

Does anyone have experience with electrician courses at community colleges or online? I am not looking to get to the point of being a full-fledged electrician but enough that I don't constantly feel like I'm about to burn my house down or kill myself.
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I'm not the one making the claims, gentle Anon, therefore I do not bear the burden of proof. Nice dubs though.
I didn't mean anything personal, but that is the one for sure source of accurate info
It's cool Anon, no problems here. It's pushing midnight here, but I Googled it for shits and giggles. So far (a perusal of the first page of hits) it seems that homeowners actually will cover very nearly ANY electrical fire, regardless of who did the work or if it was inspected. They'll try to pass the cost on to whomever did the work, but they pay the homeowner, and if the homeowner did the work the insurance company is screwed. Now, after they pay you they cancel your policy, or raise the premiums so high it's not worth it, but they do pay out regardless of the cause of the fire. And there are ZERO first hand accounts of ANYONE who's had a claim denied for doing their own electrical work and then having a fire. It's sounding more and more like an urban myth to me.

That's interesting. I always assumed anything not done with a paper trail or whatever the insurance company would refuse to cover. (I think that's the burden level of home warranty companies at least.) I'm actually going to sit and read my fucking tome of a policy and see what they say about damage stemming from repairs. If it doesn't say anything I'll get a statement from the insurance company.
Ask at electrical supply stores. If you need an inspection in many areas a licensed electrician does it They usually work side jobs too.

I wouldn't ask an insurance company, I'd just get with the electrician who will be signing off the work. All the insurance co knows is he blessed it.

I had a tree take out my weatherhead and meter box. I replaced the weatherhead and meter box, pulled new wires, left the cover off and had a local electrician come inspect and bless it. Power co needed him to do that so they would reconnect.

Saved me a good bit of money in labor and he found no fault with my work (nor should he, I used to do industrial maintenance and helped sparkies with their stuff).

I went to the local electrical supply store and I bought what I needed per the sample parts I'd removed.

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Hey /diy/,

I'm trying to run a couple servers in my bedroom, but I keep tripping the breaker in my house. It's listed as 15A, and the label says that it supplies power to my bedroom and the bathroom.

How can I run my servers? Will I need to somehow increase the power limit to my bedroom? Should I run an extension cable out to the living room to use that circuit?

Pic unrelated.
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Kill a watt will tell you straight up how much power your two servers are drawing from the wall, that's probably all he needs to know.

But hides everything else on the circuit. Clamp tell the truth.

Up to OP but to me killawatt is a fools game. Also I can buy a clamp at the store.
>Up to OP but to me killawatt is a fools game. Also I can buy a clamp at the store.

The killa watt thing looks nice, but who needs constant monitoring of power draw? Also, buy a short extension cord and split it so you can use the clamp to see the draw from any outlet or to any individual device.

If I had something that varied a lot I might want a kill a watt permanently on that outlet, but otherwise it seems rather unnecessary.
It's great if you had alot of them to figure out load flows for the purpose of being ultra miser and want to log everything.

But if you have a high resistance short

Or some fool mixed aluminum and copper

Or something else is happening upstream that is robbing amps

Then the killawatt is a false sense of security for the purpose of troubleshooting.
>labeled bathroom
>powers water heater

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