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im an apprentice electrician, what hand tools do i need? pic is what i have so far
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i believe that is a vagina stimulator
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I like a linoleum knife for this.
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That’ll be 7 grand fuccboi
From an utilitarian point of view this is piss poor design. All kinds of shit will get stuck along the edge, and knowing these con artists all too well the wood insert is probably epoxied in there. Expect to buy a new one in two years if you have a home that calls for this look
it's 755 USD not 7,000 you cocksucker

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My friend bought LED chain from IKEA for real cheap, however it's battery powered and I want to make it into USB power. According to it's label it takes 0.36 W at 3 V to function.

I made voltage divider on the pic to bring down USB's 5 V to 3 V (i used old USB cable). On my voltmeter it correctly shows 2.94 V. I attached it directly to the battery contacts in the control/battery box of the LED chain.

However, after plugging the thing in my notebook, the LED's are waaay too dim and the voltage drops to 0.60 V. I suspect the USB is limiting current to very small amount - I got partial answer from a stackexchage post, talking about how USB sometimes gives only 0.10 amps to devices that won't communicate back.

What can I do? Is there a dirt cheap Chinese USB chip I can add to the circuit to make USB provide me with additional power? Is there some flaw in my design? How can I make it into USB powered thing most easily?
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Is there something I can use to make it ask for 5 units? A controller chip, I would imagine?
There's a method of requesting it by having specific resistances on the data lines pulled high or low or what have you
I'm the guy that gave you replies 1353322 and 1353351.
First of all, I don't know much about LEDs but your string is rated at 0.36W and 3V. P=VI so your string is rated to run at 120mA. When a regular diode (not Schottky) is forward biased past 0.6 or 0.7V, then it turns on. Without looking, that is probably why you are seeing that voltage reading across the LEDs themselves. To get more than 100mA, you need to go modify a driver so it requests a higher current limit during "bus enumeration". If you've never heard of it before, most likely you're never going to figure out how. It involves modify the USB Device driver of an MCU w/USB I/F. Very few people on this board or anywhere else would be able to help you do that. It's going to be more involved then just adding a resistor on D+, D-. You know, you already have a notebook computer w/LED w/LED backlight. Why do you want to stick LEDs on it? If I didn't give a fuck about my laptop, fuck the resistors and just stick your LEDs to the USB Vbus and ground. You're limited to 100mA and your $1 string is rated for 120mA/3V but who gives a fuck if it burns out.
I don't think there's an easy way to bump your USB current limit to more than 100mA. Another poster suggested using an Arduino and that's probably the easiest way but still not easy. Otherwise, I'd just do what I said before and plug in your string sans resistors but my previous warning still applies (one or the other will burn out, probably the string, maybe neither). I know I haven't been much help. Best of luck to you.
OK, this was indeed the issue. I used 18 and 27 ohm resistors and the string lights up well. Thank you for showing me the math.

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Hallo /diy/,

I have a liquid handling robot.
It's essentially a pipettor on 3 motors and 3 rails that serve as 3 axes (as well as a motor to operate the plunger and drop-tip button on a pipettor).
I installed a pipettor that's not really compatible with it.
So I had to 3D print some parts to accommodate it on the robot.
I have to calibrate the position of the wells on the robot's deck and the tips in the tip rack before I can have the robot execute a script

I have a problem though.
The nose-cones on the pipettor aren't tapered and neither are the tips that are sold that are compatible with this pipettor.
So when the robot goes to slide a set of tips onto the pipettor, there's very little room for error in terms of positioning.
But in the course of moving around and doing robot stuff, the pipettor is occasionally displaced a bit from the position I calibrated it in. And when it goes to pick up a new set of tips, sometimes the nose-cones will collide with the rims on the tips, damaging them or otherwise not picking them up.
I slowed down the z-velocity of the robot when it goes to pick up tips so it won't collide with the tips with as much force, but that only goes so far.

Does anyone have any ideas how I might resolve this problem without needing to get a new pipettor or tips?

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You could grind down the end of the nose cones to a taper, there's a lot of plastic there. There exist even drill bits for cutting that kind of taper, though I don't remember what they're called.
yes try this first

they are built like that because they are meant to be fixed and not put on by the robot I guess
thanks for the advice; I guess I may try all of the above, and I'll try and post updates.
This one is clearly meant to pick the pipettes by itself because it has a mechanism to throw them away after use (end of vid).
Does yours have this mechanism, if not it would mean it's not meant to pick the pipettes by itself.
yep, it's identical to what I have, the only difference being I can't use the pipettor it came with, but I have a higher capacity one I'm 3d printing parts to make the robot accommodate.

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Hey /diy/,
I've got somewhat of a conundrum of sorts, i'm wanting to get a 3D printer to use for printing models for my warhammer 40k games among other things, the issue is, i don't want to spend all of the money required to buy one outright, i'd prefer to either make my own, or get a kit to make my own.

I've got access to the internet, and assume that I'm living on a budget, I want to make a 3D printer that is good at doing its job of making semi detailed to very detailed prints of a space marine or 50.

I was thinking something along the line of an Arduino process, but i'm not sure how to go about it, I've got a Rasberry Pi, and i have access to a radioshack for anything electronic based. Would it be possible to build a 3D printer from scratch? maybe i could cast the plastic pieces or go to home depot to buy materials to build it?

To be perfectly honest, I don't know where to start, and I don't really know what to do. A point or two in the right direction would be deeply appreciated, I don't know if this belongs here or on advice, but i'm posting here because i was hoping some of you guys would be able to help me build a 3D printer from scratch.
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usually in my case I turn solidworks .prt file into an stl file, but there are tons of formats available, just depends on what software packages you are using.
You then take that stl file or obj file or whatever and run it through "slicing" software that takes your model and slices it into layers. It will generate your tool path based upon the parameters you enter into the slicing software things like, infill density, speed, shell thickness, layer heigth etc. Then the slicing software will create G code based upon the above that you can then feed into the printer or into printer host software.

The printer will read the gcode and execute the commands given. Its all based on a coordinate grid, so its pretty easy to read and edit.

As for custom code, there no sense in reinventing the wheel, get yourself a good self contained control board, like a rambo for example. You want to have the stepper drivers on the same board, you can use arduino and a stepper shield or a specially made 3D printing shield(quite a few out there) but I prefer a simpler self contained unit where everything is on one board. They are easier to mount and keel cool.

As for printer firmware I only use marlin, I've played around with other firmware but marlin is by far my favorite.

Run marlin on a Rambo board and your golden.

As for your rpi, use it to control panel for ypur printer as well as a Wi-Fi link so you can push g code to your printer wirelessly, hook up a webcam so you can watch your prints status from your phone, easy need points with that party trick.

Just start googling how to build and what to build, there is an insane amount of support out there in forums for 3D printing you just have to look!

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If you're not set on doing 3D printing you should consider injection molding. You can't make custom models, unless you whittle one first or something; if that isn't a dealbreaker it might be easier and possibly cheaper to make molds of models you already have or to cheaply buy used ones. Alternatively you might use it in conjunction with the 3D printer to make more models at once than the printer could, while making molds off of the 3D printed designs.
Just my 2 cents.
i think..

i think i love you <3
i was thinking of that too, there's some really cool shit you can make with injection molding, i think a mixture of both it, and 3D printing would be a cool thing to do
I hear the moai sla kit is good but it is not cheap in any sense of the word.

Sry. Misspost. Phobe bugged. Cant delete it. Wtf

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Was looking to make one myself,let's see what you guys got.
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Haha holy fuck that is ghetto as shit
>Hose clamp
>Hose clamp
>Hose clamp
>Hose clamp
>Zip tie

10/10 beautiful
Very nice anon. I am buying mine or machining it from a block somehow. Do not trust myself to fasten shit
Dig the radiator. All aluminum heater cores are like $30 new. Fuck getting radiator raped by pc salesfags
>ghetto as shit
>free overclocking
>2 years no leaks.

I see no problem here

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I work in a sheet metal fabrication shop, and I'm looking for general advice on how to keep the shop orderly and maintained. Any sort of advice, no matter how seemingly insignificant, would be greatly appreciated

(no that's not my shop, just some pic I found on google)
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Building a cart that can hold sheet metal or finished sheet product will help you a lot.
I used to work in a steel furniture factory and they have varying size of cart with the biggest one being 1x2 meter wide.
It have "fences" that hold the sheets from sliding when you push them around in the factory.
That isn't true.

My workstation is absolutely flawless, all the tools are labeled based on where they go and I clean my workarea every friday.

but once I get out of work, hoo boy, I start not giving a fuck, I don't care if there's weeks old sodacan in my car, I don't need to find it easilly to make my living
label fucking everything. seriously.

also, get a labelmaker. they seem dumb, but people love using them and it's neater than a sharpie and scotch tape over printer paper.

having places for things labeled will make people want to put things away in those spots more.

I work in the navy and just do comms/it but even there, offices/shacks that labels on stuff versus the ones that dont label stuff are like night and day. it's already mandated by the DND to have muster sheets for stuff but even just filing cabinets that have a quickly made general list of what sorts of items are found therein on each drawer versus ones that don't are noticeably neater, despite containing the same stuff.

if it's just your own personal workshop, labeling things isnt necessary and you should remember your piles of junk. but in a workspace, labelling and other signage keeps everyone on the same page and it encourages people to keep stuff neat.

same. my house is a sty and i keep random gubbins in a million different places just because i can personally remember where they are, but in workspaces, i honestly get actually upset when people don't log and label things. it's not for the person working right then; it's for the next guy
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Keep your sheet organized.
Depending on the size of your shop and the management, consider implementing the 5S method. It's a bit tedious to set up and maintain, but if it is absolutely paramount that everything is in order, you can't go wrong.

But if sheet metal working is what I think it is, it probably doesn't matter if you have a number 4 or number 5 hammer, and most of the work is being done on the large tools. Then I suppose it's just a question of keeping it clean and free of clutter.

And epoxy that floor if you can. A white smooth floor is that much easier to clean, and the light gives motivation to keep shit clean.

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Why is this guy so underrated?
It is probably my favorite cleaning tool.
I feel like nobody ever uses it.

It blasted off decades worth of oil and gunk from my engine and years of caked on mud/plaster from the interior.

It does a great job with wheels too.

I have one of the Tornado guns.
Much more expensive but isn't worth shit in comparison.
Not just using a pickup tube with fine sand and gas...
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What do you mean sand?

I use household degreasers and water in the gun for degreasing. If that doesn't cut it, I use kerosene and a small amount of acetone.
Then you just rinse it out.

For car interiors, just soap and water.

Sometimes I put ballistol and water, set at a fine mist and spray over the dashboard to protect the plastics.

I've also made an undercoat using motor oil and diesel but there are other guns that works better for this.
Fill this up with dry baking soda and you got the goat carbon cleaner for engines
I've never tried it. Going to try later this week I hope it works.

Btw I also use this gun on a fine mist setting to decarbonize engines while running using hot water and a small amount of vinegar. It fucks up the oil but really cleans out the engine.
I had a high mileage engine that was burning oil due to piston rings being gummed up and preventing expansion.
Water mist injection cured it.

brainlet here,desperately need help with this,i have no idea how the logic-design of these circuits would even work,I have to program the following in logocomfort (v.8)

1) design a circuit where:

A) Q1 (light source 1) is active by default (without touching anything)

B) if you press I1 (NO button) Q1 is deactivated because no current reaches it

C) when releasing I1, Q1 turns off (the power is cut off) and Q2 (light source 2) is turned on for 10 seconds via an off delay timer, and Q2 turns back on after 7 seconds

D) after 7 seconds the circuit can be reset by pressing I1

2) design a circuit where after pressing I1 (NO) Q1 is turned on and after pressing I2 (NC) 5 times the pulses will be counted and the Q1´s current will be cut and as consecuense Q1 is turned off, when pressing I3 the circuit will be restarted

3) design a circuit where Q1 is activated after pressing I2, then I1, then I3 ,can not activate Q1 in any other order

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what's with B,C?
> press I1 (NO button) Q1 is deactivated
>when releasing I1, Q1 turns off
try also on /sci/ and /g/
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(assuming the controller has internal pullup) if q1 and i1 are in parallel between a pin of the controller and ground, then when i1 shorts to ground, q1 gets no current.
tell the controller that, when it detects a rising edge on the i1 pin: turn off power to the i1 pin, turn q2's pin on, count to 7 seconds, turn q2's pin off, turn i1's pin on, then return to waiting for a rising edge input.

2: this is a debouncer, a counter and a reset pin.

3: subroutines.
did you even read it you fucking retard
it's logic circuits you fucking cocksucker
did you try looking smart you fucking retard
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>OP using siemens logo!comfort 8
>'logic circuits'
hand in your badge son

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How do i speed up the rotting of wood?
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better idea than waste the cum ones
Bury it.
>try to rot a tree
>get it pregnant instead


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Look into scroll saw projects. That's where I started with really getting into woodworking. I may post some of mine in a bit if I remember.
Black walnut.
It dulls blades faster than a emo after a break up.

Its a tough ass wood. Any hardwoods should be cut with a corded tool and a sharp blade.
Bought a pack of Ryobi drill bits because I got a couple more sizes for the same prize as another one i was looking at. Pretty much half the fucking bits were off center and made it impossible to drill anything. They could have just made a simple fucking bit but no they had to make it some garbage 2 part bit sitting glued in some cheap housing for "better chuck grip"
That sounds like a knockoff sequel to Shaft.

I use them for hobbies, the old batteries and chargers are shit and prone to problems. The new ones are okay, but don't last too long.

Thats it, they work fine.

Hey guys, I'm an EMT out of Florida and I'm looking to install some flashing strobe lights on my vehicle for maximum visibility. I'm looking into getting like 5 of pic related and wiring them to a single switch, but I've never done it.

I frequently run across car accidents and typically stop to assist, but almost my POV rekt by some idiot while I was on scene.

Can I get some guidance on this, how to wire, power source, general tips, hiding wires, etc?
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Green is a doctor on call in the UK, they still have to follow the rules of the road though. Blues can ignore/cross red lights etc.
>emergency services in the US are literally just guys in lifted trucks with LED lights taped to the top rather than hospital-dispatched ambulances with actual rotating lights and distinct sirens
the absolute STATE of americans
in america if you push that button guys wearing red or blue bandanas shoot at your car
At some point there needs to be an end to the amount of lumens those LEDs put out. I swear I'm going to have a seizure with the new lights our PD has.
green is first responders in Indiana



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cheapest way to fix this? it's a drain pipe from the terrace

was thinking about some kind of casing around the hole, but I don't know if it'll be tight enough to stop most of the water from gushing out the hole
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i don't know if you got this over there....it is some kind of cotton tape with vaseline.......and then one or two layers of duct tape and pressure.....will fix it for maybe 2 years...then do it again
>the virgin manlet
>needs a step stool to reach his soy protein mix on the shelf

>the 6'3" chad
>unimaginable reach lets him hook all his friends up with free cable TV from a small a small ladder
>gives all his
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Uhh.. zip-ties and rubber sheet i guess?

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mailbox smashin punks!

what the fuck do I do? it's too far away, indirect los for a camera. how do I catch these fuckers or at least give them a good scare.
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Get you about four 8 foot metal fence posts (t-style) and drive them in the ground next to the box and next time they try to smash them, if they're doing it drive-by style, the culprits will have shattered elbows
>most crime is white crime
>cannot into population based statistics
>all crime is equal
>rape and murder shouldn't be put on top of list
Yes yes I know send me back to /pol/
grammar nazi eternally btfo'd into the shadow dimension

If you live on a high-speed roadway you need to make sure the mailbox is on a frangible base.
I think he was just saying that this particular crime was committed by whites, not that a majority of mailbox assaults are committed by whites. You're projecting a little.

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