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Hey /Doy/, I’m starting to work with leather and I’d like to ask you what you think I can make or do to get good at it, like if making small pouches is good practice or making leather coasters for example.
A little short on cash but I got some 8 ounce leather (about 12” by 18” left I think), although if I need to buy some more pieces i can bite the prices.
78 replies and 21 images omitted. Click here to view.
Total newfag here but very interested.
What would be a good beginner kit of tools?
Nothing fancy, just what you dould deem indispensable for the job.
Thank you in advance for eventual answers
Poly mallet
Cut surface
Solid hammering surface
A good knife
Swivel knife
A beginner stamp pack [8pc, whatever]
Rotary punch
Dyes, sealants, antiques

You can make due with the first 6 I guess.
Then you'd get slickers, edge bevelers, slivers, swap out the rotary for mallet punches, upgrade to a ceramic swivel knife, buy way too many stamps, conchos, and bits and bobs.

Multiple separate cut mats, a punch mat, a good marking pen or two, sewing awl..
Test using scraps before you get to projects its the best way to know what your working with
how do you guys tie off waxed thread? I've noticed that most knots wil start to slip given a decent load, especially considering they're literally coated in lubricant

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A recruiter for 84 lumber contacted me through indeed and wanted me to apply for manager trainee.

Does anybody work here? What's it like?
Does it pay well?

The 84 lumber youtube account doesn't give a whole lot for what they are all about.
15 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
The 3 different 84's in my area (traveling sales) went out of business a few years ago. I just guessed the whole chain went under

I would not work for them
Did Pablo fuck your wife?
Manager trainee position mean associate position.
It is a common trick used by retailers, which is what 84 lumber is when you break it down.
You may end up a manager one day which will end up being a shit deal since most times 'managers' are salaried and expected to work long hours and you will not get overtime.

>current hardware store 'manager' that said fuck salary
minimum wage is $15/hr. still not really worth any responsibility
Answer these questions:

Do you have a job?
Does your job pay better than this?
Do you think this job will suck?
Is this job far away?
Do you think you will be fired from this job quickly?
Will this job hurt your chances at a better career?

If you say no to all of them, go for it.

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bored HVAC tech here, posting some pics of jobs I've found that were REKT. Starting off with this expansion tank, never seen this before but a hole rusted through the side of the tank.
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Tin knocker here. Sometimes angle grinders are great for that purpose (if you can't take the duct down) but you always cut a few inches back so you can do a clean line with your snips. Otherwise you end up looking like a beaner.
was it a gas line in a commercial/public building? or in a home?
No pic, but anecdote.
very young kid starts getting sick, URIs, asthma, etc
months pass with tests, doctors, short hospital stays, still getting worse.
End up by chance with Indian doc who moved here. He recognized it as something he saw back there, but never in America.
Turns out a plumber did something at sink and ended up leaving out any trap. The toddler or whatever was the only one young enough and constantly at home enough to be vulnerable to whatever sewer gas/mist disease they got, like in india with open sewage and designated streets.
Big H? ITW related?
any finished images of how you completed the tile to tub gap?

"workshop of the future"
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Rip Spain bro. Would invite to USA. But we about to go into a civil war. And you need at least 3 years firearm training.
>tfw reminded that I can't afford FFS
>tfw reminded how important that surgery is to not get harrassed my assholes.
I'd harass your assholes anytime babe.
hon...come on
>I can't afford FFS
Maybe you should look into /diy/ing it

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I'm into instrument-making. What is the simplest design for a piano key? Here's what a piano key needs to do:

A key is a lever. When pressed on one side, the other side lifts and activates some sort of mechanism that causes something to impact a string (as in a piano), a piece of metal (as in a celesta), a rod (as in a rhodes piano), or whatever else you like really. However, in order to function properly, the thing that hits the string can't remain in place after while the key is still being held down. It has to move away so it doesn't stop the string vibrating as soon as it starts. Combined with a damper that rests on the string and lifts up as the key is pressed (which is easy), this allows you to let the note ring as long as the key is held and stop it as soon as you let go and the damper is put back in place over the string.

Standard pianos use a complicated design wherein a hammer is released to strike the string, then bounces back and is caught by a mechanism which then releases it back to its original position as you release the key. I don't have the tools or the patience to build several of these, so for me that's out.
My idea for a design, inspired by a toy xylophone my grandmother has, features a rod which rests in a hole larger than the rod in the string-end of the key and, when pressed, is launched upward to hit the string and pulled back down by gravity. In a prototype I found that I had to press the key fairly hard to get it to launch out far enough to hit anything without risking the key also hitting the thing. The toy xylophone has this problem but not as much, but I can't really take it apart to find out exactly what's going on.

Do you have any ideas to either improve my design so you don't have to press as hard, or for a totally other design? The thing that hits the string /must/ naturally move away from the string while the key is still being held down, this is crucial.

Thanks so much.
3 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>Do you have any ideas to either improve my design so you don't have to press as hard, or for a totally other design?

Could you use something similar to an explosive bolt that is reloadable, but small enough to not damage anything. A soundproof chamber is all it needs and we talk about that all the time.

Those ads for other videos that everyone feels obligated to stuff in their video drive me crazy. "Oh yeah, I clicked on this video to find out about your other videos, not because I actually wanted to watch it."
this is literally the most autistic complaint i have ever heard in my life. not even joking, you are so stupid.
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Think I figured something out. What do I need to keep in mind while executing this design?

Can anyone think of some shitty craft supplies I could use for each part to make a prototype before going all out on the wood?

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Here they are bout $700
they have *up to 33seer on some units

shits pointless though
>guaranteed warranty
Yessir, repetitive redundancy.
>apple ... [shill] ... Apple... [shill] ... apple
Opinion discarded. Nigger this is /diy/, you can fuck right off with that closed-source bullshit.
Holy fuck I'm not shilling Apple, I'm showing you how their business model and products work as a reference you fuck. I have never owned a goddamn Apple product in my life, because yes I know how to do shit with my windows PC.
>Apple computers are expensive because they're fashion accessories for idiots who don't know any better
Correct, that's why they have a HIGH RESALE VALUE. Their high initial price is the price of a product that could last 10 or more years and to fund Apples ability to provide customer service and parts all around the world. Also again because you can then resell it for 60-70 percent of it's value. It may be hip and trendy to have one, but it will work and it has a large enough audience for the company to stay in business.
High resale price is because of the high initial price, nothing to do with actual value of said object, durability or usability. I have PCs that are much easier and realistic in cost to upgrade or replace parts in than the Apple Trashcan Mac Pro.
Let's say you were right. How does some innate value or whatever make it require labor at 20x per hour regardless of actual part price or effort, for instance replacing keyboard, when they need no higher quality or educated techs than any other brand to do part swaps?
It's called branding, closed source, proprietary everything sold only to certain people.

Real world example: A brand name purse is made of materials with workmanship inferior to a purse that cost 1/10th However, the brand name purse can be resold at 60% or more of original cost, often near mint quality (because it was only used at a few events before the owner wanted the new style) because there is a desire to have the branded purse by people who can't or won't buy one at original price. Still not as durable as the less costly one, but the less costly one isn't worth reselling, despite having more utility value than the branded one.
Hell, generic store brand X usually comes from same factory, materials, quality control, etc but is priced less than the same product in a differently colored box.
Apple is example of: only X manufacturers make widget Y, however brand A resells it at a higher markup than brand B. Apple branded/packaged uses same chip just higher markup "American, Russian, Chinese? All made in Taiwan!"

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This is a long shot but maybe one of you guys can help me out.
I use this little bottle to hold marijuana (relax, it's legal where I am). It fits into a custom wooden case, and as you can see, it's cracked.
I got this as part of an odd lot of surplus items from a chemistry lab. There's no manufacturer's marking on it. I want to find another one exactly the same size and shape so it fits in the case. The shape of the neck is important because that's how it locks in.
It's 2.275" long overall (2.045 excluding lid) and 0.975" in diameter. Those dimensions don't come out perfectly even to millimeters or fractional inches.
I've worried about breaking this bottle for years because I could never find another one exactly like it and now it finally broke. I found lots of glass bottles but never one exactly the same. I don't want to have to make a new case, I'd rather find a replacement bottle.
I'd guess it was bought in bulk from a chemical supply house originally. Any suggestions?
7 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
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Looks like big contact bottle
try here.
they have lots of shit like that.
Mary jane ain't dope, you're gonna have to work harder for this (you)
What is that amount of weed even good for? Is it to fuck with dogs?
> I don't want to have to make a new case, I'd rather find a replacement bottle.

A pothead looking for the illogical, longer, harder route to a problem due to laziness?
Sounds about right

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Any Machinists around? Full-time, hobby, or otherwise?

I'm looking to get into it as a hobby.

A lathe and a mill are high on my lists of things I want... including a band saw and a grinder. Then there is tooling to consider. Not really sure where to jump in. Debating on trying to find a good deal on lathe or mill via craigslist, or just buying new from grizzly and avoid potential headaches (like worn ways, issues with gearing... stuff I might miss from being a newbie and buying used).

Any suggestions?

Also... general machining thread?
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that machine seems about the perfect size for the home workshop. Would not hesitate a minute.
10m/min rapids even seem a lot better than the typical 80's Maho/Deckel rapids.
>IMHO I'd have a generator running when I need the machine running.
What type of generator do you recommend?
Ideally it would be diesel, but if you want to stay cheap, you just need the cheapest engine you can get your hands on(probably a motorcycle engine) and a three-phase motor that is rated for the power you want to put out. Use said motorcycle engine to spin the three-phase motor and you have a very robust generator for pennies on the dollar. Otherwise, you should probably troll auction websites, I've seen 20kw-100kw generators go from 1-30k usd.
Doing the calculations it seems that a rpc would be less money in the long run and I think I could get away with buying a larger rpc 40hp to fit both of my machines so I can run them both and not have to buy 2 separate smaller rpc's

I have also looked into a 200amp breaker panel and I don't think it'll be a problem to have it installed
I remade the part, shimmed it up to .0015 runout, and its closer to .002 offcenter (though im not sure how well I trust my measuring and the ID finish is utter dogshit)
But by eye it looks a whole lot closer to centered, not that this needs a high tolerance at all for what im doing.

Also shimming a 3 jaw blows, it was off a huge .017-.021 no matter where I put it, shimmed it with feeler gauges.
I just nabbed a 4 jaw chuck on ebay.

Hate to keep posting remedial shit lits its my blogspot, but nobody IRL gives a fuck about my endeavors.

I'm looking to learn a trade that I could possibly do on the side. What are some relatively quick/cost effective trades to get certified in?

Pic not related.
6 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Electrical Trade.
Focus on Residential. Find an electrician to sign off on your hours worked, and swear to your training, then go test. Test won't be much, a couple hundred. Then bingo....you're set, go charge little old ladies 200 bucks to hang christmas lights, or fix their porch lights. Try to sell panel upgrades.
>Gee sir, you're really pushing your limits here, I'd advise getting rid of this panel, and upgrading.
>Charge them 1500 minimum for 6 hours work (try to make it take at least 6 hours or they feel ripped off)
Or plumbing.
Same concept.
Avoid Hvac. Too much attic crawling, and too much "gee, my central air unit isn't doing enough/too much (x)...fix it please"
nothing professional level "on the side"
But your mom is a professional on the side ... while on her side.
mini splits
Dude, dont be a fly-by-night handyman. You are literally the scum of the trades. If you are looking for a solid career, go for carpenter, electrician, plumber, or hvac depending on what interests you the most.

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Is the hand-strength not there?
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>how much rf does 50Hz service carry
Enough to be a right pain to electric guitars. And your standard run-of-the-mill faraday cage won't have much of an effect on 50Hz, so you can bet that your steel heater body won't.

But yes, for a Peltier heater you need to have a heat sink on the cold side and have that outside the room you're trying to heat.
It's in a lot of older/cheaper homes in New Zealand, in general independent faucets are cheaper than a mixer tap.
>everything is obviously centuries old and inefficient in europe
what are you talking about
>brag about building brick everything that stands the test of time, we have 150 year old houses!
>none of that wood garbage that gets torn down and rebuilt every 50 years to stay modern!

>oh wait we have modern efficient houses too!

So which is it?
Are you spending 80% of new construction prices to retrofit old garbage downtrodden houses?

Actually, you are the hack. What you described is why people dont solder in "high voltage" situations. To satisfy the NEC requirement that all splices be mechanically secure and protected from condensation means that you are never going to be able to have a good solder splice.

Also, NEC doesnt necessarily require a nut, but it has to be secured and protected from condensation and in a "workman like manner." That that means throwing tape on a solder isnt gonna fly in most jurisdictions

But hey my friend, feel free to solder splice and tape and burn your house down.

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Hey /diy/
I'm living in a rural area with really poor signal and sluggish internet speed (pic related)
One solution is to build a Yagi directional antenna and point it to the nearest tower
The problem is, that my carrier uses 1700-2100 Mhz, also called AWS and LTE B4. But every tutorial and guide I could find are for other frequencies ranges, I can barely understand how ghz frequency works.
might want to ask this in the ham radio general.
i imagine the elements would be pretty small, my wifi yagi is really small, and that for 2.4 ghz
yagis are pretty easy to make
Remember it has to work both directions. It's easier for you to pick up the high energy tower signal with minor effort than it is for the tower to pick up your slightly amplified tiny outgoing signal.
Depending on your situation, the equipment, etc you might not be able to do with just a bigger antenna or passive repeater. Hate to say buyfag, but in the end you may have to consider something like the Wilson brand cellular repeater shit.
If you are using a hotspot, go on your roof with it inside a paintcan on a cardboard spacer and see if that does even the slightest. If your equipment doesn't use external antenna, you might be better sticking it on an old satellite tv dish. Plenty of people do that with some usb wifi dongle with great results, probably the same with a hotspot.
Fermi Labs has a Yagi modeler that will let you scale it to a specific size and number of elements.


I'd recommend a folded dipole on the driven element and at least a dozen director elements and one reflector element.

>pic related
>shrimp biosphere

Now how large of a sphere would you need to sustain 1 human for it's entire adult life? What would you put in the sphere? Nothing can enter/leave once it is sealed.
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730,000 kcal/person/year to survive

potatoes - 1,300 kcal/m^2

4046 m^2/acre

1 acre of potatoes, 1 harvest per year - 5,260,000 kcal

enough to sustain roughly 7 people of average weight with a comfortable diet, assuming little to no wastage.

if you were only going to 2 - 4 people, half acre to potatoes, and the rest for variety. people survive comfortably.
Using only one crop is a very bad idea. Ask the Irish.
Thats fucked up
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You're severely underestimating the total needs of it. Remember Biosphere2, out in Arizona? 8 scientists in a 100,000sq ft facility ran into challenges maintaining proper food production rates and safe oxygen levels. They made it for 2 years, until someone found that there had been several structural defects that meant fresh air was getting in from outside.

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what tools have you recently acquired, /diy/?

Pic related, got this complete Atlas 3060 table saw. Was sitting in heated storage for 20 years and the owner decided to just leave it. She's complete even with blade guard (no pic) and feels beefy as fuck. Included a 3/4 HP Leland motor and she works perfectly but very fucking heavy (RA frame 4B66 -> haven't been able to find the same one with a quick google)
Some shit pics incoming, sorry bros
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Layout with oblig shitty blurry pic
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Atlas decal, serial #4936
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Fence, has a cam/rod setup that engages the table directly in the back
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Front w/o flash
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Miter gauge. apparently those thumb screws are for engaging an extension rod (didn't see a rod, may be missing)

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>when arabocuckolds can only pretend to destroy the true faith's buildings on their movies
The equivalent to jews making an antinazi movie thinking they got their 6 trillions back.
Rough geological location please? How do I find property with minimal restrictions? I see them on landwatch and such, but I feel like there is a trick or secret. Where can I find a list of municipalities that have loose building restriction?
Why would they destroy such a beautiful structure?
>Most of the code is just to make inspectors money.
They are all old networked retired trade guys that base their inspections on how many permits the city has sold this month, and who the contractor is.
No new housing, they drive around looking for anything to demand permits or issue violations to fund their department and justify the number of workers, and most will require return inspections.
There's some park in Arkansas I think where some interesting person with money 100+ years ago built his own small castle almost on the cliff above a lake. Quarry was onsite, laid short tracks and had mules pull the carts, took years, did alot of work himself, but was a famous place holding rich parties before the guts burned.
I'm not religious in any shape or form, but even I think that kind of shit is blasphemy, at least against the architects, workers, artists, stone workers, and mankind in general
And why didn't we bomb the sites/equipment the taliban was using to for destruction of ancient shit? We have missiles that can hit a single person 1000 miles away, but we couldn't go hit all their construction or demo equipment stores ahead of that? Hitting a dozer and (de)construction crew on site would still do less damage than just letting them do what they want.

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Post a better screwdriver

I'll wait
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Actual man grabs it. Twist in half. Grats. Now it cant even be a shitty flat head or pick...
yeah, but a little grease / oil wont do shit to them and the insulation looks nice even after 12 years.
now whats greasy environment for AvE, just look how he opens a gearbox on his workbench
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PB Swiss just because
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The Klein equivalent to pic related is also good.
Done in 1. Who can get the lights?

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