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I am not sure if this is the correct board for this topic, but I can't think of anywhere else to go, and I bet /diy/ has some good safes at home.

I'm moving into a new place in a few months. Its a basement apartment in a private home. The renters seem nice enough and the rent is much more affordable for me, but this will be my first time having roommates.

I want to invest in a nice home safe to store my valuables and important documents. I don't know much about safes, but I have been doing some research, and I know what I need.

>I need a safe around 1.3 - 3.0 cubic feet, no bigger.
>I want it to be fire and water, I am especially worried about floods as this is a basement apartment.
>I want the safe to be a combination safe, not a digital safe. Digital safes can be hot-wired and also rely on battery power to open. I prefer a mechanical combination lock. Simpler, tougher to crack, and more reliable.
> I want the safe to have a concealed hinge inside the safe that prevents the safe from being opened even if the hinges are cut off.
> I DO NOT WANT A KEY BYPASS. most safes have a key that can open the safe in case you forget our combination. I am not a retard, so I am not going to forget my combination, and a key bypass is a serious weak point that can be picked.

Do you guys have any brands or models you can recommend? Budget is flexible. I am willing to pay more for a quality safe. I would prefer to keep it under $500 if possible.

I would like to bolt this safe to my floor as well, but I don't think the renters will allow that. So I am thinking I will throw a few weights in there to make it really heavy so that one man can't carry it out by himself.

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Concealed hinges aren't as important when you realize there is fixed bolts on the inside of most reputable safes. American Security and Liberty Safe are pretty affordable and durable. It'll be difficult to find anything that is waterproof that isn't a floor safe.
>who the fuck stores porn in a safety deposit box

I do.. Playboys #1-10 (hubba hubba 1953 Marilyn Monroe) still in the plastic and unstained. The rest is just backups for my systems and photos.
Now is the time to sell them
>important documents
scan that stuff
encrypt it
keep on a flash drive and or upload it to online storage

even having plain copies is better than nothing when trying to replace things to prove your identity
Nope, too busy wanking.
Besides it's my retirement wank.

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Whats your worst nightmare?
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Learn to resize, nigga. Not everyone has a 72" monitor

Always get a prenup. If the chick flips out at the idea, she's not who you want to marry.
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>Not everyone has a 72" monitor

>Not having exclusively 4K screens
Getting sent back to school for politically correct reeducation
That's the only merciful thing to do.

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Anyone know outboards? This Merc Model 40 seems like it has through-the-prop exhaust, but it comes out this hole in the picture.

Is that a problem? What is that hole supposed to be for? It is not the cooling water return, that comes out a side tube.

Other than that the motor runs great. I was thinking about running a hose from there into the water just so there is not exhaust smoke in the air. Thanks!
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The arrow is pointing to the exhaust port. The Model 40 does not have, nor has it ever had, through-the-prop exhaust.

Download a service manual.
Thank you very much.

Looking inside the prop, it really seemed like there were ports going somewhere, but I wouldn't know.
Intake for water cooling, most likely. You're running that in a barrel or with muffs, right?
I made a 30 gallon trash container with a drain valve at the bottom for this purpose. Muffs wouldn't fit on this one, but I think the intake is on the plane fin above the prop.

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Show me your battle stations, also motivate me to sort this shit out
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dont kill yourself on it.
There is a good chance that I might.
Seeing as how it has drum brakes front and rear, the throttle return is almost non-existent and the power band on it comes on hard.
I am hoping my 20 years of riding experience and my turning into an old man will keep me out of trouble.
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it wont.

those bikes dont care. they're monsters even in top safe condition. let alone with any handicaps to function.

fix it b4 it fucks you.
That is the plan, notice how it doesn't even have tags yet.
Having trouble finding throttle cables but did find that I could possibly put a front disc on it from a newer model which means I can also ditch the wire wheels and be able to put some good radials on it.
Believe me, it will have been gone through from end to end before I take it out on the road.

>and I'll probably still die on it
just drive slow and watch out for the neighbor's dogs, potholes, and gravel roads

So, basically I started making a conlang in my free time and with my computer fucking dead i've started to go a bit further with it. I want to know if anyone knows how I could get some materials to replicate the early writing materials people would have had in ancient history, i.e. birch bark, clay tablets, wax tablets, etc. so I can create a realistic writing system. I would need a medium and a stylus of some kind. Obviously I know what materials they used, but I don't know how to get the kind that might resemble what they would have used to write then. I don't much about how to get the materials, so I can only give my location (southeastern Wisconsin) but I imagine that I'll probably end up needed to find them online so that might not matter.
Raise livestock, learn tanning, kill livestock, make vellum.
Nigga, you live in ancient history.

t. West of 94 resident
>birch bark
just go out in the goddamn woods, son

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Can we have a general about hobbyist machining?

Post pictures of your machines, talk about your machines, tips tricks projects whatever.
I know you guys are out there
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I'm getting a cnc mill and expanding with a used cnc lathe
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lathe, mill, drill press, bandsaw (horizontal and vertical), belt sander, bench grinder, vises

don't be afraid to grind your own high speed steel toolbits, good way to get geometries that aren't easy to find in carbide insert form or are expensive

some indicators too

About as sure as I am about the angles the Chinese cut into the other end of it.
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If anyone wants some parallels reground, I will do it pretty cheap.

Sup /diy/, I need some help with a project.
I am getting a fetal pig and was wondering what the easiest method for diaphonizing it?
Bumping for help

For those who don't know here's what I gathered from 5min of googling

Diophonization is a method of dying different sections of dead organisms developed in the 70's. It involves first partially digesting the thing in an enzyme (usually trypsin). Then leaving it in a dye for the muscles or bone or cartilage. You can get some pretty cool results from this. Anyone who hasn't should Google some pics.

>>>/sci/ may be a better board for this since some actually to this.

I suspect it’s the little thingy you pull up and down to set it to either tap or shower, it seems stuck in an intermediary position, l used to be able to push it up and down

How do l fix it lads
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More specifically, I can toggle between shower and tap, but it always comes out the tap even if I have the shower on.
Not OP, but I believe some of the black packing shit around the stem valve of my shower's hot valve got cut and shot up in the plumbing. I get water from the bottom if the top is on. My solution was to get a faucet with one of those pull doodads to switch the stream. The thing is my shower has a dedicated middle valve to send water to the shower head. When I use that the water still drips, but when I pull teh doodad it stops, maybe goes to a few drops instead of a stream, but the showerhead gets hotter and the stream gets stronger.

Hope that makes sense to you because apparently I type like a retard when in a hurry.

Makes perfect sense to me, I also have a middle valve so I probably also just need to change faucets too, thanks
so if it's an old school cast iron 1940's faucet, it's worth opening up and replacing the rubber gasket/packing for the valve and it will work again. If it's 1980's+ stamped steel and plastic, theres a fair chance that corrosion of the plastic or metal is the problem, and that's not really fixable. Planned obsolescence.

have you tried taking off the showerhead to see if you can shake/fish it out of there? also run the water while it's off and that should blow it out of the pipe if it's just floating around in that part.
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>cast iron 1940's faucet
>cast iron

I don't thinks so, Tim.

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Can someone tell me what kind of flush handle I need?

90 degree dont work
45 degree dont work
adjustable kind are weak shit that break

I took a 90 degree flush handle, and bent it to make it work, and the plastic guide broke, and now it just sags.

Literally on my 4th handle. I cant find one that works correctly, and doesnt fucking break after 3 months.
Join the rest of the first world and get an in-wall cistern.
It only took 15 seconds to google the part number on the inside of the tank and find an exact replacement for the OEM lever.

Thank you.
this belongs in the stupid questions thread. learn to use the fucking catalog
Take that chlorine tablet out of the tank.
That shit eats up the rubber parts.

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I'm trying to make fins for my Mazda, but its complex rounded shape is making it very difficult to connect anything on it. How can I get the correct shape to cut the bottom of the fins into so that I could weld them on?
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Lay on some fiberglass resin just to get the mold and the add the fins with some kind of foam, shape them as needed and add some more fiber glass
Assmad bus rider detected.

Stay mad cuck
Spot and glazing putty. Look it up. It's for a final finish later over Bondo. Trust me, I'm a redneck.
Whats next?
Plastidipping the car flat black to show the world how cool and unique you are?
kek...sensitive and a retard

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Just found an old flute i thought my parents had selled years ago, smells weird, has some stains but the mechanism seems to work just fine. What do I use to clean it if its still worth it? Pics incoming
16 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
Who are you quoting? Lurk moar. I'm agreeing with piccolo guy, and stating why. Thanks for the (You) though.

Protip: /pol/ probably won't care about flutes.
Dont know what you mean. The cork in the head joint is easy to adjust and should be adjusted such that the mark on a cleaning rod is in the center of the tone hole. http://www.miyazawa.com/media-library/educational-articles/maintenance/when-should-my-headjoint-cork-be-adjusted/

it is true that most of the time people tune flutes by adjusting how far the head joint is inserted into the body. Different bands/orchestras/countries tune to different frequencies. In American bands it's usually A = 440. Europeans A is usually more sharp. Btw if you determine that the cork in the head needs to be replaced pull it out through the bottom towards the tone hole. The top where the crown is is tapered and if you try to pull it out this way you will stretch the metal and have a harder time.

As far as cleaning it depends on how good a job you plan on doing, make sure to remove all of the rods that hold the keys in place. When you remove the keys be aware of the springs and dont break them. If you plan on soap and water or some sort of polish you want to remove the keys because you will ruin the pads if you dont. You will probably want to pick up some key oil for the rods. When replacing them use one or two drops and slide the rods back in place.

As far as replacing pads you probably dont want to try that. If it comes to that point just take it to a shop. When cleaning the pads it is best to use cigarette paper or similar and dont try it if they are wet from condensation or you will tear them. If you want to know if a pad is no good try playing a note that requires the key versus one that doesn't. A fairly nice c# can be played with no keys. A bad pad will produce a worse/more airy/no tone compared to a good one. If you try this use two notes that are near each other on the scale. If you try a mid range note then a high one it may be that you just cant play well in the upper register.
Also the problem may not even be a pad, but a bent key or worn cork where one key interacts with another. For instance the Bb thumb key works to push down a key inbetween your fingers on the right hand, but if the key is bent it wont make good contact.

Whether it is worth it, the answer is probably no. This looks like a beginners instrument. Intermediate players are usually pushed to purchase instruments with a low b key. This is a third key on the lower joint. I cant see the manufacturer in the pic but im sure you can look it up. Depending on what the plating is you can make a better estimate.

If you decide to get a shop to repad the keys it will probably cost a couple hundred dollars at least and if it is a beginner instrument you may be able to get about that much for it. On the other hand if you want to keep it you may find it worth the investment. Intermediate instruments can be in the thousands, but you can make sounds just as nice on a well maintained beginner instrument. Dont buy the "you have to have a $1500 flute to make a decent sound" bullshit you get from high schoolers and college kids. Learn to make a good sound on what you got then the better instruments will sound golden
An Elkhart? This is just your average student model flute. $50 - $100 or so...donate it if you've no interest in playing it.

i'm not talking about tuning it; if that cork is rotted, it may be the funky smells weird mentioned by OP

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Alright, so I want to start my own online t-shirt shop, as the title says. I don't really know where should I start, so I'm posting here in order to ask for some help. What should I do first? Set up a webpage?

The kind of shirts I want to sell are like some kind of anime-minimalistic prints. So I know what I would like them to be, but don't know where to start.
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Something tells me you're from /osg/. Will you be putting up links there?
Problem is people don't buy overpriced shirts on random sites. Good luck
Lol nope, not from there.
If thats your business model, local sales will be much better.

It really wouldnt be worth it to create a website as you cant outprice your competitors with larger production lines and better distribution options
not only that, is the art yours?

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I'm trying to make a Groove Coaster 3 controller replica, like the one in pic related.
Since the Arcade doesn't exist in my country, i'm going to build my own based on a PS3 dualshock and an old computer.
Problem is the PS3 sticks have this arch movement, while the Groove COaster controller is flat and it glides flat more like the 3DS analog stick, instead of rocking like the PS3 one.
TL;DR, is there any flat gliding analog stick i can solder on the PS3 pad?
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Pls respond
groove coaster controllers aren't analog, if that helps
and i thought video games when i was a kid were retarded!
clearly to me it seems to be not planar but spherical just like an analogue stick but the size of it throws you off. the larger the distance you can make between the pivot point and the playing surface the flatter it will seem.

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its just a two stoke motor, a propeller, a chair and parachuting gear.
pls help me build sky chair
These are really neat. However, by regulation, they are single-seat only. Your first flight will be a solo flight, and a test flight.
floating around on a parachute?
if you want some real troll physics action go for an autogyro, a helicopter where the lift comes from the blades being forced to rotate by forward movement from the tail propeller. neat.

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No stupid questions thread? Stupid questions thread!
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Guy that originally replied to you here.

No idea desu, I dont frequent any nsfw boards.
Whats the cheapest floor to put in a basement that wont get utterly fucked by the small leak I have (heavy rain for mutiple days = small puddle)

Eventually Id like to epoxy the floor, but I want to wait until I have the money to do it without cutting corners and with good epoxy. I just want something that looks / feels better than raw concrete til then.
Water proof paint
Will that be a bitch to remove when I have the money to epoxy down the road? Or will it come off easy since I have to grind the floor anyways?

Thats actually a good suggestion though, Ive been looking at it for the walls and dont know why I didnt think of just slapping it onto the floor, thanks
Lead is an easy cast. Remember, they're just hipsters.

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