[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Home]
Settings Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.

05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
06/20/16New 4chan Banner Contest with a chance to win a 4chan Pass! See the contest page for details.
[Hide] [Show All]

[Catalog] [Archive]

File: xxx.png (347 KB, 1200x1200)
347 KB
347 KB PNG
Electrician thread
20 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
There's literally nothing wrong with using caps, you people are autistic
They're the gayest out of the available choices
File: 1434940035676.jpg (41 KB, 300x381)
41 KB
Marrett + Electrical tape
Will last longer than the wire insulation
They are the fastest and cheapest of the available choices too.
You want me to raise my rates for no actual benefit or increase in utility or performance?
Solder is not glue, solder is to prevent oxidation forming in the joint. The first version does not need solder indoors assuming it is well formed. Any solder joint is only slightly stronger then the mechanical joint you make before soldering.

File: EuropeDestroysIslam.jpg (88 KB, 700x519)
88 KB
Any /gardenbros/ here? Any tips to get off the eternal (((grocery store))) food?
8 replies and 6 images omitted. Click here to view.
File: 20180624_113601.jpg (2.42 MB, 3264x1836)
2.42 MB
2.42 MB JPG
Cherry tomatoes are still the only one fruiting so far.
File: 20180624_112414.jpg (3.43 MB, 3264x1836)
3.43 MB
3.43 MB JPG
Cucumber has grown quite a bit. Just about to start producing I think
File: 20180624_112353.jpg (2.78 MB, 3264x1836)
2.78 MB
2.78 MB JPG
And I've been eating the arugula already. Tasty stuff
File: cd3.png (47 KB, 683x601)
47 KB
Why is 'Europe' represented by the Maiden of Finland in a viking hat? Forest Finns were not Vikings.
File: 1529861266754317428679.jpg (1.42 MB, 3264x1836)
1.42 MB
1.42 MB JPG
About to make a nice little salad out of it, actually

File: screwhead.gif (9 KB, 222x200)
9 KB
Let's have this thread again. What's your favorite type of screwhead?
192 replies and 36 images omitted. Click here to view.

people who say Roberson is great and Torx is shit are either Canadians or idiots.
Robertson is great, possibly a bit better than torx for low-torque applications (arguably easier to centre), but torx is in no way a bad driver/screwhead. I think he was just being a shitlord but if he has any anecdotal evidence against torx I'd like to hear it.
>I do live in Canada, so if I go to the hardware store/reno centre the vast majority of screws are all Robertson head
What the fuck. I did not know this.
its true, I had to go to several hardware stores to find one that carried an interchangable torx bit set. not common

it would be my fave head is it was more common though. Philips suck ass, they get all fucked up way too easy.

Fuckin right m8. You say that shit to my face and I swear down I would knock you out.

Please help me out, I live with my mother and she says my room has a very distinct smell, I notice to, I don't know how to describe it, it doesn't smell like earth or anything but it feels stuffy and muffled.

Problem is my room is super clean, I vacuum it every weekend I have little possessions besides some books and supplements so I don't have a lot of stuff.

The layout is pretty straightforward to, as you walk in you have an open closet at your right, the bed in the middle and my desk on the end of the room, this room has 2 large windows that lead to a field full of flowers and some trees, I live in a 5th floor btw, the bathroom is right next to my room, the wall is right next to my rooms entrance.

I checked for mold literally everywhere but I can't find it, ceiling spots, none, not to mention when I moved in I cleaned it with anti mold spray and gave it a new paint job with anti moisture paint, wall right next to bathroom, nothing, close to windows, also nothing, the room get's sun all day to and now I leave the windows open.

Only thing out of the ordinary is that my wooden tiles in my floor are slumping up, not all but just a few, I actually used a wrench to get one out to see what was underneath and it was just floor, no mold at all so I don't know why this happens.

Also after waking up my nose sometimes starts getting congested, not always but sometimes.

What could this be? maybe the congestion is due to the pollen outside because I leave the window open but this smell I can't explain it... I also even destroyed a little bit of wall to see if there was any mold growing in the concrete but nothing, btw my house has no wood construction.
7 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Well, bumping.
That sure looks like mold to me, and if it's that close to your bedroom then whatever caused that could be causing what's happening in your room. It could be a pipe leaking behind a wall. In fact that's probably the only possibility because you're nowhere near the ground which is where most mold comes from.

The way that mold is propagating it's coming from the bottom up, so I assume there's a pipe running through the floor that's leaking.

You'll probably have to cut open more of the wall, and possibly the floor, to inspect further and trace the mold.

I found multiple spots in my house (~60 year old house) that had mold, and I had to pull out floorboards, carpet, and some drywall samples to find the full extent and deduce the sources.
I guess you don't have carpet since you talked about wood floors, but carpet will house some smells. Did you smell the wood from the tile you pulled up? Is there an attic space or something above your room that could be causing something? If there isn't any water then I don't think mold is the issue.
Didn't see the pic you posted, but I agree with>>1412231 that certainly looks like mold to me. Makes me think that maybe there is a problem with mold in the house
Fuck, we can't really do anything like that, the country where I live is retarded.

Guess I'll start sleeping in the living room, I'll only be here for another year anyway.

Yea the wood didn't smell like anything, and no I don't have carpet, I thought it was the mattress but it isn't.

It's probably a leaked pipe.

File: mechanism.jpg (83 KB, 670x473)
83 KB
Does anyone know how to go about making a mechanism like this? A large rubber band that pushes a lever onto a button.

File: w.jpg (51 KB, 341x402)
51 KB
This is an incredibly simple setup. The device I circled in red is called a servo. It rotates that little arm based on a control signal send by the RC receiver. RC models use them to actuate control surfaces so the controller is made for them. These guys probably used a spare channel (for say flaps, which a drone doesn't have) to control it. The rubber band is to hold it on the camera, nothing more.

File: 13_51-500x360.jpg (160 KB, 500x360)
160 KB
160 KB JPG
ok l'll start one of these. Questions that don't need their own thread.

Can anyone here tell me the name of the tool this guy has in his left hand?

Preferably in English, but it would also be great if someone new it in Norwegian.
¨(if you know it in Norwegian; would you also know where to get one?)
Tnx in advance
98 replies and 20 images omitted. Click here to view.
But then it won't be solid, and will have visible seams along its length.
Slap some veneer on it? Do some nice joinery/resin work to make the seam a feature instead of a blemish?
That requires work
But these aren't bad ideas. Thanks for the advice
I have one neighbor and shes deaf so should be fine
Yeah fixing that one board is not a problem but the thing I'm concerned about is if there are other issues I'm not seeing. I don't hear any cracking sounds and I don't see any new cracks in the walls etc (foundation work was done almost a year ago now) so I ASSUME I'm good, but I'm also paranoid that my shit's gonna get wrecked.

Thanks for the info, also didn't catch the OSB up in there. Makes me curious as to when that was done; I do know the shingles at least were replaced recently.

Do you got recommendations on books on clockwork mechanisms ? I want to get into the hobby.
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
I can't remember her name but there's that autistic Horologist that does detailed videos that might be helpful.
What is this, some nonlethal chicken trap?

I think it's using a trash can as a nest...
Maybe some hipsters bought it for a backyard hen house and realized not all chickens lay fresh eggs.
Bumpity bump for the anon travelling

File: image.jpg (1.5 MB, 4032x3024)
1.5 MB
1.5 MB JPG
Does anyone have suggestions for getting this out? Last tenants were not the cleanest and this stain is impossible. We’ve tried vinegar, scrubbing bubbles, magic erasers, and a lot of plain ol’ elbow grease. There is some give but it still won’t come out. Any help is appreciated.
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
>. We’ve tried vinegar,

This is the only thing you should use.
White vinegar and water, on a rag, draped around the faucet/shower/spout for 30-60 minutes. The vapors do all the work.

Scrubbing bubbles ruins faucets.
Thats just plain old finish damage that isnt going to "clean up"
spouts like that can be less than 15$
remove spout, use new safety razor blade style scraper to get thick stuff off carefully
CLR or lime away would get the rest
then put on new spout and caulk if desired
File: image.jpg (1.44 MB, 4032x3024)
1.44 MB
1.44 MB JPG
Thanks! We’ve used vinegar for cleaning, but letting it soak really helped!
What's the material it's on? You might want to try a stronger acid than vinegar and let it soak in for a long time. It needs time to react. I would also say to take off the spout itself, and then soak that in CLR or a strong acid. For the wall get a rag and cover in cling film/tape to contain the liquid.
>spouts like that can be less than 15$

yeah, and in a year or two the chrome plating will be corroding off. cheap-assed plumbing fixtures aren't worth the time wasted on installing them.

Post your current projects here.

Previous thread
Cedar strip canoe.

It's not looking as great as it could and it's over a year and a half behind schedule.

Didn't have the appropriate skill level when I started. It's getting there though.

Not sharing pics because I feel lazy tonight
I have a partly shattered file I've decided to spend all day with to make a pencil handled single beveled edge leather knife just because everybody hates me and I never get invited to anything like a Sunday BBQ.
File: stop1.png (1.61 MB, 1150x764)
1.61 MB
1.61 MB PNG
Finally finished my vise stop I was talking about in the machining thread.
My surface finish in places isnt great, but its functional and was made out of all scrap I had laying around (aside from like $1.00 worth of bolts).
File: stop2.png (1.46 MB, 1129x915)
1.46 MB
1.46 MB PNG

File: R_800x.jpg (44 KB, 678x678)
44 KB
How do i successfully splice 2 of these together to make a single longer cable? Can it be done?

I have 2 short ones and i need a longer one, but i dont want to spend the cash...
7 replies omitted. Click here to view.
just connect the wires that are the same colors. if you see more than 4 wires and jacket then just connect the red, white, black and green ones. that should be good.
Cut the ends off each wire and tear them apart, then splice the matching wires together. Come on, man, I used to do this when I was 8 with computer wires.
meyb you were a genios IQ anon. have you been tested at m.a.s.a?
>I want to connect the two i have. Thats it. I dont give a shit if i can get a 10 ft cable for free.

wow, someone has anger issues. DIYing this is probably not worth the effort. and besides if you got a cable for free, why the fuck would you still splice 2 short cables... you have some backwards priorities here
Hola a todos

File: shower.jpg (143 KB, 1920x1080)
143 KB
143 KB JPG
I am trying to remodel a shower in my house that's on a slab. It looks like the cut a hole out in the concrete for the shower area, about 3-4 inches below floor level, and then filled it with concrete to make a shower pan. I don't want to learn how to pitch concrete correctly, so I was just going to buy one of those expensive shower pan kits from kerdi or similar company. My question is, do I need to take the old pan out completely and get down to the original foundation? Can I reuse the old one even though it's covered in thinset already? Can I put concrete on top of the old one to get it level, then add the foam pan?
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
suggest to remove all residual materials from old pan, won't be in the way in buildback. a couple thoughts on pans anon, the prefab pans look good for <5 years then finish starts looking worn and are not flexible in sizes so if your existing opening is larger you'll have to furr with wood & cement board to align walls to pan dimensions. your existing recess in concrete was to allow for liner and grout base for tile and get slope to drain. tile replacement will be slightly more expensive though you will get much better end result. old master plumber here anon, good luck
File: No Big Deal.png (1.44 MB, 922x678)
1.44 MB
1.44 MB PNG
Should have 2x6 for support of liner, notch in corners of studs so you have place to hide the glued and folded flaps. Helps on the finish.
I'm assuming you didn't do a pre-slope.
Nope you didn't.
Water will get in to those areas of the mortar and mold.
You are probably going to pour it too wet; it will slump.
Buy, hey, you have that pic where you actually did something once.
File: Picture1.png (705 KB, 466x619)
705 KB
705 KB PNG

Thanks for the info, I started looking at the material this morning and noticed that it was hollow in areas so I took it out. There was no pan liner, or any water proofing at all. I was actually able to just lift off mortar in a giant sheet when I was about 80% done.

The shower area is 38" x 38" which I was able to find a Kerdi shower kit for that size. Should I just be able to clean up the concrete and get all the dirt off, and then thinset directly to that to apply the foam base? Or should I get some mortar and get it back to a similar level as before, since the recessed area is still about 3 inches below floor grade, which is where the curb will need to go. Thanks again.
File: Picture2.png (602 KB, 470x526)
602 KB
602 KB PNG
The shower apparently hasn't been used in a few years. I tested it a few weeks ago for about 10 minutes and didn't see any obvious leaks into the bathroom itself. But I could see signs of old water damage all over. As I tore it down, I saw mold on the concrete backer board, and the bottom of the metal studs and steel protector for the pipes were all rusted out. They used drywall screws to hold in the backer board, and they were all rusty. There was also something weird growing on the back of the wall tiles and backer board that looked like tree roots, but they didn't go anywhere outside, so I am not sure what they were.

File: image.jpg (89 KB, 607x1080)
89 KB
How do I dump large amounts of trash? Can I just drive up to a landfill and dump it there?

Tips on using yard sales for decor/furniture.

The place is more or less half-wired, which is better than nothing, so I'm thinking dumping my money into plumbing first makes the most sense. Idk shit about plumbing, but if there's anything I can do to cut costs here, let me know.

I didn't really want to do that much because I refuse to be there for longer than 5 years and it's just a trailer but I'm going to end up dumping thousands into this because my family doesn't know how to stfu AND they're going to expect me to keep it "in the family" well, nah they can kiss my ass. This project is going to keep me broke for quite some time.
some local dump sites are free for 1 or 2 trips a month in certain areas
others, you bag and set it at the curb and request a pick up
>my family doesn't know how to stfu AND they're going to expect me to keep it "in the family"

Elaborate. Did you say you were going to "fix it up" or something?

If you dont plan on living there long term, and you dont have an actual obligation to rebuild the thing, dont put a cent into it.
Literally throwing money away that you should be saving.

Its hard being financially responsible when you grew up poor and living week to week. But just because you were raised like that doesnt mean you should continue to do that. Be smart with your money right now, because its YOUR life you have to live.
>Dig a pit into that Kalkaska Soil
>Toss everything in
>Burn or bury

File: digginmeatunnel.jpg (107 KB, 1280x720)
107 KB
107 KB JPG
Hello /diy/! I have (probably prematurely) begun digging a hole on my property in hopes of making an underground room/tunnel. I live next to a old water-filled strip cut in Southern Illinois, and my current plan is to dig down and into the side of a large, 90 year-old mound of excavated dirt that has grown numerous trees that were large even when I was young. I have played +200 hours of Minecraft, so needless to say I am quite the expert when it comes to digging. Joking aside, I could certainly used some advice and links to relevant sources of info on the web on how to properly complete this project as safely as can be done for a low budget. Here are my current conditions:

1. I will be using no power tools except in the case of constructing any wooden framework needed for the structural integrity of project. All digging will be done with a shovel, a bucket, and any non-power tools that can be purchased for cheap.
2. I am performing this task on my own with no assistance when digging. Each time I go out, I have someone who will physically check on me every hour if I do not contact them in the event of an accident. This is not ideal, but it is a restriction I have.
3. My final project would ideally be a 16'x16'x8' subterranean room with necessary supports to prevent a collapse, and a lockable door to prevent unsolicited wanderers from entering and causing an accident. I'm not certain on what preventative measures to take to keep rain from entering this room or the necessary stairs/ladder shaft section to reach the door.
197 replies and 33 images omitted. Click here to view.
who needs money in the goblin underworld
OP isn’t coming back because of the autistic screeching from people who don’t get humour
Don't worry Anon, just call 911

File: robo.jpg (116 KB, 1000x1000)
116 KB
116 KB JPG
I have a question and if you guys help me out this could be the start of an awesome series of threads.

I am looking for a robotic arm. One that can be programmed to identify red balls (think red tennis balls) and grab them.

I know there are AI interfaces programmed in Python that can track objects with high percision. What I am looking for is a robotic arm that can use an interface like that to grab the object and move it about to a fixed spot.

I'm okay at programming and figuring stuff out but know fuck all about robotic arms.

Can you guys recommend a robotic arm? My budget is about 750 bucks. It doesn't have to be top off the bill, just enough to make a prototype.
23 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
Yeah, it was implemented in C++, but you can have a Python interface.
I am looking for a robotic arm, it doesn't need a claw, as I will be strapping something to the arm, and it doesn't need even need any wrist movement.

I am hoping the lack of a claw or wrist will keep the cost down, I don't even know what to search as "Robot arm" only looks for ones with a claw and wrist.

The main concern for me is the amount of weight the arm can have attached to it (Maybe about 1kg).
File: ur.jpg (5 KB, 225x225)
5 KB
here you go
my robot weights 200kgs, and it can lift 6kgs. real robots wont come with a "claw" (EOAT). go to ebay and search robot arm inm ebay or craigs list and look around

Wow, how much did that cost? I am guessing that reducing the weight it will need to move will reduce the cost drastically.

File: Camera.jpg (89 KB, 1000x1000)
89 KB
any help with home security? looking to catch my landlord coming into my house without me knowing and i want to find a camera i can watch live, i also want to be able to see multiple feeds bc 2 entrances
24 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Back to the original question... Isn't there a DIY guide or walkthru for setting up good and affordable home security cameras? Does anyone have a link to a guide or a starting point?
As >>1407750 said old Android devices can do the job, check Alfred in playstore, I used it to take a look on my puppy on his first days being home alone

App notifies you and records when detects movement and stored it the cloud, so no storage needed, only current (for long time, for short can work on battery) and internet conection (better on wifi) for the camera. You can watch live too at anytime you want
>he checks up on his puppy when it's alone
I wish I was a threaded hole so you could screw me all day
A stupid neighbour complains about him making so much noise so I put the mobile monitoring him.

I discover the puppy barking and making noise in normal situations, bell ring, car claxons, strong noises and when the stupid neighbour knocks the door to complain about some shit.

So the next time he complained I sent him to hell totally sure and with proofs. One year later he is still shut up.
File: gohan.png (457 KB, 640x480)
457 KB
457 KB PNG

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.