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293 replies and 80 images omitted. Click here to view.
Get the stainless safety wire too. Cheap on Ebay. Shit's insanely useful around the shop even if you don't safety wire fasteners.

Milbar, Blue Point etc are good.
This one is cool. Till the next days and your knees are feeling it.
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cat. Dremmel #1 for reference
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tool pr0n
Mike Rowe gave a talk about his time on dirty jobs and how he actual found it more humane to bite off the lamb's balls than to do the rubber band thing

like if anyone is interested, really good talk


Is the brand trash or good enough for the occasional DIY job?
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Really makes you realise how American's are so susceptible to marketing that shit like that actually exists.

>Latter half of 2017
>They are already selling cars from 2018
>They are advertising cars from 2019

>I just gave you 20 gallons!
>Rubs hand maniacally
>20 babby gallons
Its human nature
Professional doll house builder?
Isn't anonymity wonderful?
You can say shit to someone you'd never consider saying face-to-face.
>>I don't know why the red tools are so popular, since TTi makes them all.
Most power of anything you can get at Lowe's/Home Depot, pretty consistently. If not the very top, one of the top. That said, some of their tools lack in the finesse that other brands have. Jigsaw is a bulky bricky brick, and I returned my M18 oscillating tool, but I'm very pleased with my PC and DeWalt corded ones. Top tier batteries, warranty second only to a registered Ridgid warranty, on par with Kobalt, plus they cover shipping both ways.

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Im in the process of making a fusor. Anyone on here have any experience and tips to a newcomer?

1) What can I use, (or more specifically NOT use) as the main chamber for the fusor? I heard that you have to weld on the inside of the chamber to prevent virtual leaks. Is that true? Why?

What should I look out for safety wise? How much of an issue is radiation and x-rays from a relatively low powered reactor? Should I invest in lead shielding around the reactor itself?

Could anyone give me a relative price point for the reactor in total if I use used parts?

I already have a 40kV supply and I plan on buying my deuterium gas directly instead of electrolyzing heavy water.

My man! I'm tired now, so this will be kind of garbled, but fuck it. I'll post more on it later.
I was working on building one, still kind of am, but have other priorities now. I was going to use a propane tank as the chamber, keep in mind that you are producing a fair amount of x-rays, for radiation protextion it is better to have too much than too little. You don't want to fuck with cancer. As for price if you diy everything and can make high quality welds it can cost as low as $400, but keep in mind that very few people can do this. The chamber is usually the most expensive, going at around $2500.
ALSO- look on YouTube on how to build a piston vacuum pump, I saw a video where someone made one out of pvc for $10 and it was as good as a $400 one.
What kind of power supply do you have? How much was it?
I always wanted to build one myself but I never had the time to. Take a look at this: https://makezine.com/projects/make-36-boards/nuclear-fusor/ the page gives a neat instruction. Concerning the radiation: A lead shielding is overkill. One lead plate in front of the fusor should do the Trick. dont be exposed to the radiation for 2 long tho

Doing a new roof on a house I'll live in for probably 5-10 years. I live in a hot sunny climate and wasn't sure whether to do white shingles or a steel roof. Any insights from /diy/?
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5-10 years, go with quality asphalt shingles. Make sure the substructure of the roof is in great condition while everything is peeled off, this is also a good time to improve ventilation with 'spinner' vents, solar-powered vents, ridgeline vents, soffit inlets, whatever works for you, along with thermal barrier inside.

My parents just rebuilt the roof on two buildings with good standing-seam steel roofing. It was approximately double the cost quoted for shingles. They did this because they don't want to deal with replacing these roofs until after their deaths.
ashpalt will only last max 15 years before it starts crumbling. If you are only living there for 10 years, go for the asphalt or whatever is cheapist. I lived in a house with wood tiling, that was weird.
5 to 10 years.
Go with 3 Tab asphalt shingles.
Find the lowest cost in your area, probably GAF.
Don't tear off the old layer, just overlay.
Go with 15 pound felt or even Rosen paper.
Any valleys? Use rolled valley sheet metal, not the preformed stuff.
Re-use the old drip edge.
Do it yourself, especially if doing an overlay.
It's easy, just look up videos online.
Don't even need an airgun just use a hammer.
Talk to some local roofing supply yards.
Many have left over stock, get your square footage and ask.
If you really don't care, many times they have returns or messed up packaging, some even have bad runs, they got credit for.
As about "old stock", some have a pallet or two that are years old.

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Am doing a metal roof over shingles. Fuck shingles!
Metal. Hands down. Had a metal roof now going on 4 years. Fuck shingles. I'll never go back.

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>meanwhile on 2117 /diy/

Hey guys I saw someone post on r/SpaceBungalows about his DIY inter-system container habitat. I know of a 'roid where three of them are just sitting there, looks like they've been abandoned since a mining corp went out of business a few years ago.

Problem is I've got only a junker D-Class Ichiboroku from 2076, and am too poor to get another ship right now. My dad's got three sizable asteroids he got scammed into thinking there was gold and nickel on, and I figured I could set up a comfy little home on one of them, not too far from Charleston station.

I was wondering if any of you anons could help me out with some info.
>Are there trackers in these fuckers, and can I disable them or permanently mask their beacons?
>How would you go about hauling them from one asteroid to another about 0.4 AU apart?
>How do I make them hold positive pressure? I'm looking at one of them as an airlock, and then join the other two together into a larger living space.
>I heard there was a requirement for radiation shielding on these since 2085; anyone know how I can check when these were made?

I'm trying to keep it on a low budget, but I figure the bulk of the cost should be the containers themselves.
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I was fixin my van allen belt anode other day, left my rocks float free around my ship.
Claim jumpers, fucking claim jumpers. They stole 3 rocks out of 8. I hate this shit. I was dragging them from belt to moon for 3 fucking months.
Anyway got their serial number, will put a bounty on their heads soon.
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I got myself new vidya nickname! thanks
waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaait a second....!

Take that shit to /d/

Or /tg/ if you're REALLY weird
Anyone know where I can get lots of imitation crab meat? I need 1/3 megatons of the stuff.

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Daily reminder that using a scythe is the best and only way to cut your grass.





There is no excuse to use anything but a scythe for your lawn. Sorry mowercucks!
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My property sat abandoned for years. Before that most of what I'm mowing was pasture for goats. The ground is rough and uneven, but every time I take that heavy ass woods mower over it it smooths it out, plus rolling it every spring, levels everything out. I've got all the old fence rows and brush removed, and have a little more grading to do on the ditch lines to make it more maintainable. Plus I still want to put up a split rail fence around the property.
Once all this is done a proper finishing mower will be much more efficient, and will save wear and tear on something i'm wanting to eventually fix up and enjoy.
Goat pull off grass moth.
Get some sheep insted, it really cut the grass.
I would use one as a kid when the weed eater would break. The curved American style scythe this guy derides works fine for the most part but it's a bitch on ditch banks or other uneven ground.
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Kool story bro
>not using a 1954 Fergueson TO-30 with a Woods deck

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I'd like to build it out of steel shipping containers. Is it possible for someone who has very little knowledge of construction/architecture to pull this off? If so, what all would I need to know/skills/tools should I obtain? Thank you.
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OP is a bundle of sticks.
Literally multiple videos on how to build his picture by the guy who built it:


Most containerfags should just build a steel frame building and use corregated sheeting if you're into that aesthetic.
Just copy success. Industrial and military designs have done everything worth doing with a container and are easy to translate to a DIY level.

If people knew how to use the internet we wouldn't have container threads. Youdon't have to imagine shit. Just LOOK at the many, many existing examples and LEARN the parts of a container, container condition grades etc.

Also forget artfag shit you will never build because if you have to ask how to be an architect here, you aren't one. So very motherfucking simple.

Now google "tincancabin". He did a very nice job in a manner more expensive for the same result, but that suited his needs and wallet. I'd have used forty foot High Cubes instead. I fucking love High Cubes.
Just don't man. Build a yurt or something just don't use containers
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Semi-unrelated, but I think these arctic modules have a nice look to them, too.

I want to get in to machining as a hobby.

What's the cheapest, most compact bench I could get for the purpose of simply learning the ropes?
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they do suck complete ass, not enough rigidity.

compound and toolpost bends down and breaks carbide inserts, use sharp high speed steel and crank the compound all the way back so the tool is closer to the center-line of the saddle/cross-slide

you have to fuck with them for better rigidity, just buy a used bigger lathe
oh and the lowest speed is like 100rpm (too high for some stuff), and the motor doesn't have enough torque
oh and it won't last as long as a better machine, build quality is obviously shit, the leadscrew for threading is fucking tiny and probably a V thread too
the leadscrew for threading is also shared with the main power feed mechanism, so after a while it will wear down and cut fucked up threads

I own one of the small 7x lathes. They don't really have a rigidity problem (at least, not for their size) so much as an issue with the ways being sloppy, especially on the compound. The machining on them is rough and the gibs are trash. Fixing these improves cut quality and accuracy significantly, but, of course, it's somewhat time consuming and tricky to do well.

Hey /diy/
So I think my neighbor is fucking with me and leaving trash on purpose around my house. Today I found an empty pack of cigarettes in front of my door step (My door is 20' behind my front gate). So I really think someone is fucking with me.

My question is, what kind of setup would work best to capture someone walking onto my property (I want to catch him multiple times b4 going to the cops). I have this kind lamp that I want to hide my camera in, which has wiring into my garage. I've seen alot of pinhole cameras, but don't know how to keep it charged and what kind of storage is best... Thanks
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retaliation is the only option

you know what you must do
I'd do this if I was older/younger and didn't give a fuck.
>wifi cam

That's one option. Another is a similar setup, but a spycam that recharges via USB and a 5V wall wart adapter. If the spycam has motion detect, all the better.
my neighbor is like 80 and she puts her bags of garbage on her patio instead of taking them out right away, the shit ends up blowing into my yard. Just go yell at your neighbor.
Chloroform is ridiculously easy to make, it has two ingredients I think? Unfortunately, it doesn't work like on TV, it takes way longer to work than most people think, and can kill the patient err... shithead neighbor. Just put up a camera OP. You're going to do it anyway, why bother hiding it? Have it recording to a laptop/PC inside so if whoever takes it, you'll know who it was. It's not like people that do the shit this guy is doing are smart.

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Well inhaling plastic fumes give me cancer
I melted a hole in my car to fix the AC and didn't really think twice about it
6 replies omitted. Click here to view.
not yet, waiting for parts in the mail
An iron might actually work better than a Dremel, and doesn't spray dust all over.

I'm not looking forward to the blend doors in my Fords but I keep the blend control full heat or full cold so they are seated. Many years, no failures.
Also an iron is just a round hot knife. Hot knives are nice too.
Explain EXACTLY why the fuck you did that.
t. MJ owner
pick up a welders gasmask for 45 bucks, it will filter everything.

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A minor request here. I'm just disassembled my keyboard, which works through PS/2 port. The output goes through 4 pins only so how the fuck does it work? Which pin is connected to what?
6 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Just a $2 adapter. You could wire one up though.
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>PS/2 port

>The output goes through 4 pins only so how the fuck does it work? Which pin is connected to what?

Opie, pin one is the letter "a", pin two is the letter "q", I forget the rest.

...it's a serial port you dingus.
Your keyboard almost certainly doesn't support usb.

Usb/ps2 keyboards that did were usb first on their cables, then if you still needed ps2, you put the convertor over the usb end of the keyboard.

You have a ps2 cable out of your keyboard, so its probably just a plain ps2 keyboard.

They are not compatible technologies, the ps2/usb hybrid mouse and keyboard were ubiquitous for so long that people taje compatability for granted, but they are completely different protocols.

A ps2/usb keyboard speaks in both protocols and figures out which one to use at boot. This is because it was a vital feature for keyboards, not because your usb host speaks ps2. Your ps2 keyboard is ps2 only and isn't going to help you.
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I did this before. Pay attention:

before you remove the wires note the color and what pin they are connected to. The PCB should be labeled. The order isn't always the same, but all keyboards should have the same labeling of sorts.

What I did was removed the original DIN cable that connected via adapter and swapped it for a PS/2 cable From a newer non-mechanical keyboard. I basically did a cable swap on a Model M clone.

Now you want USB, right? You will most likely have to buy an adapter that will translate between the keyboard and the PC. They are like $10-$15. With a big enough keyboard and some modding, you can chop the PS/2 cable or wire directly into the adapter or just let it dandle from behind the PC.

I didn't even solder the cables in place, I just twisted them around the posts.
>op wants to rewire his keyboard to usb instead of just buying a fucking adapter for 5 bucks.

lmao fucking einstein over here.

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So I just destroyed this camera. How would I attach the wide angle lens on the right, to the sensor on the left?
I pulled apart a narrow FOV spy pen to try and put on a wider angled lens.
You don't, it's fucked.
> dust on sensor... probably fingerprints

yeah Opie. shes fucked mate
duct tape faggot

or hot glue

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Cross posting here, as there's probably more knowledgeable people here on this topic than /wsr/

I have a Kiln that is 2kw and 120v, so about 17 amps. The plug for it isn't a standard plug and is rated at 20 amps.

Does anyone know if I can get a converter to plug into an electric range or clothes drier that'll convert the 220 to 120 so I can use the higher amperage breaker the stove/drier runs on?

Pic related, it's the plug.
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>I could just temporarily wire a new plug on to it and put it in a normal socket.

Don't do that. Heating elements have a positive temperature coefficient.
The thermostat is likely just a temperature sensitive switch.
When the switch closes on the cold element it will draw maximum power.

I just measured a cold 40w incandescent lamp.
25 ohms - at 120v that's almost 5 amps
when the lamp heats up the resistance goes up to ~360 ohms for the 1/3 amp to be 40 watts
Ok. Thanks for the warning.

I don't get how a cold single incandescent could draw 5 amps alone. I mean I understand that resistance goes up with heat and lowers with cold, but wouldn't a room with more than 3 incandescent bulbs turned on at once blow the breaker they're on?
No, breakers don't trip instantly as soon as the current has been reached.
Google breaker time current curve to understand more. Short answer is that the breaker doesn't have enough time to heat up and trip for short current spikes.
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The lamp heats up very quickly so the 5 amps last for only a moment.
Breakers have a delay built in. The over-current has to last for a predetermined time based on how much current is drawn.
With your kiln unplugged and turned ON, measure the resistance at the plug.
If the kiln is digital it may not have resistance until the controller is activated by the 120ac but it's worth a try.
>it may not have resistance
should have said may have near infinite resistance

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How exactly do I make a purchase from alibaba, without having the order fucked up?

Im after a few hundred deep groove ball bearings, size designation 61807 to be exact, decent quality.
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>being this much of a turbo damage-control JIDF kike shill
Kill yourself, /utg/ kike, kill yourself.

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/diy/ I am making my first wine out of 3kg of grapes. More info here: >>>/ck/9458493

So, my question is, how do I know that I need switch on secondary fermentation?

>Day 8 of primary
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Does it taste like a lager? Unless you're being graded on it, who fucking cares ;)

try adding more yeast? I had a brew in the fridge and the temps were too cold. I dropped in 5 grains of champagne yeast and it foamed right up to a "boil" after a day.
maybe it didn't seal properly
I put a droplight behind it to check clarity.
Mak sure the bucket is airtight. Simple way to do it is close it up and sniff around the lid. You shouldnt be able to smell the contents anywhere but right at the airlock, and thats only if its bubbling. Throw in a bit of extra yeast, stir gently and check temperature. My first mead i had to keep the primary on a reptile mat and wrapped in a towel.

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