Why the Playtube app takes like 3 minutes to search anything and when i try to watch any video i always got the error message 'This video cannot play right now, please try another video'I can't watch any video.I already try deleteing and installing again the app but still without works.Before having these errors i changed some stuff in my phone after watch a video about how google track your phone with background programs and shit.
>>2974315>>>/g/108011810
Chainsaw?I alre have a glass one and a small electric one but should I get a big one?I'm kinda running out of wood on the property also.
If you're almost out of wood what are you going to cut?
>>2974246Idk go and steal some wood?There are some wood home's around that have been abandoned for 20y and there are falling down or already have.But I might ruin the chainsaw on them..I'm thinking electric is perfect for crime
>>2974246>what are you going to cutmy old pops goes and cuts firewood on the highway rightaway if he sees a tree fall down. occasionally somebody will stop and ask him wtf hes doing and maybe if he needs any help. the only time he got told to fuckoff was by some out of state roastie railroad middle manager cunt because he was cutting a tree across an abandoned spur and he just waited a few days until they were gone and then went back. but he has lvl:9001 dilligaf so ymmv if youre fucking awkward bud
>>2974243No.
Lost your marbles? Make some!
>>2973430Store bought. Is there a finite set of patterns to cover them like that?
>>2970808But posting here isn't? Faggot fortnite nigger.
>>2972494Why would you assume that in a DIY forum?That doesn't look like store bought clay.Sounds like you have betrayed your own lack of DIY.
>>2974040>Is there a finite set of patterns to cover them like that?that's what I'm trying to find out. There are always progressions of course but distinct weaves are almost certainly finite. Pic related shows the same weave but with rings doubled or not.When I was a kid we used to have a lot of crayfish chimneys in my yard that I would use for clay although we never fired any of it.
>>2972494Real clay is super cheap, mate. I wouldn't bat an eye at spending $30 for 50 lbs to make a bunch of big marbles. I certainly would rather browse the local art store to chat up all the weird, but cute art girls than destroy my landscaping and crawl around in rat shit.
Like to build a house foundation for example.
>>2973805>Granite would be the best from your list because it is the hardest and most non porous of the stones.Correct. Much of Aberdeen is built on granite, earning it the name Granite City. Just make sure to have sufficient ventilation as the granite is radioactive and Granite City has a major cancer problem that the government is suppressing. >>2973854>adding glass fiberGlass fiber can be too smooth. Try basalt fiber instead.
Netherite
>>2974043The other anon was talking about 15 mil plastic, not 15 mm long plastic fibers. I think
>>2973609Sandstone for landscaping shit if it's locally available, nothing else unless you live in a desert with 0% humidityGranite for structural parts - Footers, water tables, foundations, stoneblock walls.Limestone for facing, features, and carvingsQuartzite for countertopsSlate for tiles of either the floor or roof varietyGravel for the 8 billion different uses gravel has
>List of types>blue>green>red>white>matteThat's how retarded your list is.
I have this cool antique table and I want to restore it.It has a lot of different problems but let's start with the wobbly structure. It's so wobbly it can barely stand.Immediately I could notice that some previous owner had attempted to reinforce the structure with nails. Some of them were super crudely hammered in but I managed to remove the extra nails without damaging the wood any further.Then I realized the 3 symmetrically inserted nails were actually original to the table. Believe it or not, this table doesn't have traditional woodworking joints. These carved galleries keep the whole table together and they're nailed (and glued) to the legs and the top.So here's the crux: the table is wobbly as hell, but most of the original nails are still in place and so deep in the wood that I can't pull them out. This means the table can't be taken apart for reassembly. And even if I could do that, there are areas with so much wood loss that I can't put new nails in. I was thinking I could rebuild this table with peg joints but it would sort of break the originality.What's my next move?
>>2974101use the parts as stencil, cut out them from better wood and assemble the new table copy to be rigid and sturdy
>>2973395no you dofus, you wiped off dirt and grimeno traditional finish is water soluble>is that why it was put together with nails and glue rather than actual joints? no that was done for $$$$. But hey, its not like this is a chair
OP here.I was bored so I started taking the table apart. I can't fucking believe I managed to do it without breaking anything, with no prior experience or know-how. No idea what to do next. What I'm looking at right now is a tea table kit.Yeah, I realized that the carved parts are way too thin and brittle for actual joints. They felt like a cookie when I was taking them out. I get that the maker saved money by using nails and glue, but I don't see what else you could do.
These nails are impossible to take out.I started banging them out from the sharp end, but the wood at the other end started cracking so I had to stop immediately. You also cant pull them out.
keep the nails in, reglue with hide glue.
Post your project face
>>2972866This rational attitude generally lasts until the next weekend, when you go and buy the lumber because 'reasons' so you can store it until next summer...
>>2972866Craigslist/FB marketplaceAt the least you can get a few pianos and repurpose them. The lids would make shelves
I need to put a pier foundation under this and I'm scared
>>2971285I used railroad ties but idk if that was a good idea either
>>2972532I remember going to a hunting camp that was in a low valley that would flood up to 7 ft and it was just fucking old single wide trailers cranked up into the sky like this.I just remember looking out and thinking that a fall from this height could kill me, turning around and being in a tacky 1980s decor, complete with a rosey old recliner facing a big old tv.
>>2972532how did they do that
>>2974225Jacks and adding one timber at a time.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpn-aTzhFIk
>>2974230are those concrete houses
How would you fix this?
>>2973937Paying for 1 inch and then only using half of it. Sad. In my area you pay extra for a larger input line.>>2973977Yeah, tighten the packing nut. If that doesn't work, have the water shut off and get rid of all the galvanized pipe and put a new valve in. I'd use brass as that is what is on the municipal line. You don't want to mix metals without a dielectric union and its not worth it to save some old galvanized reducers. Using a 1 inch ball valve is a good call. Have the pressure reducer after that. Maybe even consider putting in a second shut off right after the meter while you are doing the work.>>2973951I've only got a 5/8th inch line but the pressure is fantastic. Fucking girlfriend is a ditz and has popped 3 cheap garden hoses by leaving the water on at the tap but 'turning it off' at the sprayer. No water hammer though. The place was built in the 1950s and everything is galvanized and strapped to the walls. They don't build them like this anymore. It would cost too much.
>>2973937The rubber o ring probably rotted, so just replace the valve.>muh mainwalk outside your house to the curb - there should be a small cast iron hatch - lift hatch and slot a socket wrench and twist until water stops.
>>2974209I doubt that dude has a curb. a cast iron hatch, or a valve to turn. Dude is in a mobile home and said the shut of valve feeds several units. Unless you want his corner of the trailer park to get the lynching tree warmed up that is something you want to clear with your neighbors and schedule.
I thought that the water main was a PVC hose but on closer inspection it seems to be blue PEX.Am I safe in assuming that the brass visible in pic related is the 2 parts of a compression fitting that thread together?
>>2974273It looks like a water meter coupling. If it is then The threads joining the brass will be straight and the seal will be made with a rubber washer. You should be able to reuse that brass if you can unthread that galvanized nipple. But you might need a new washer because those things wear out.
Hey everyone,I’ve been working on an online document translation tool and wanted to share it here to get some honest feedback.The main problem I tried to solve is that most translation tools break document structure — layouts, styles, headings, lists, tables, and spacing.This project focuses specifically on preserving the original formatting while translating.What it currently supports:Document formats:DOCX, DOC, DOCMDOT, DOTX, DOTMComment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Looking to get advice on whether or not my dream house I'm in the planning stages of is even possible to build, I'm having trouble finding any information online that isn't historical. Basically, I'm planning on building a garrison house. This is a traditional timber-framed house that was popular in the early colonial days, it consists of a jettied/cantilevered second story. I have two separate dilemmas.Firstly, while I wish for the house to be either entirely or partially timber framed, I do not want the timbers to show except in the basement and attic. In other words, I want them not only sheathed on the outside, but also cased on the inside (preferably with traditional lath-and-plaster walls). But this presents a problem. Historically buildings weren't airtight so the green timbers could breathe easily, but I'm worried that if I not only sealed the exterior with a vapor barrier but also cased the timbers inside that it would essentially lock in the moisture from the green timbers and rot them. Is this a valid concern or no? Would lath-and-plaster allow enough interior air transfer to avoid rot?Secondly, would it be better to build the first story in cinder block masonry and then have a timber second story? In case people are wondering why I'm insisting on such heavy duty construction if the timbers won't even be visible, there's two reasons. Firstly is that I would like this home to not only be my forever home but also to be something that could be passed down for literally centuries. Secondly, I intend on having not only a slate roof, but preferably I want to shingle the second story exterior walls with clay tile. I'm worried that if I used conventional dimensional lumber framing that it would not be able to support the immense weight of all of this unless I doubled everything up, at which point the cost would probably be close to that of a timber frame anyway.
>>2974039The more weight the first story has to support, the thicker the walls need to be. The Monadnock Building has walls that are about 6 feet thick on the ground level. Also, hauling brick up stairs sucks.
>>2973551>architects are the bane of the rational and exist only to annoy engineersPretty rich coming from somebody whose entire profession is so out of touch with reality that they had to invent a whole new degree field (Engineering Tech) just to train people whose job it is to unfuck Engineers' nonsense into stuff that can actually be manufactured. (Admittedly structural Es don't actually seem that bad, MEs are a fucking atrocity these days though, I don't know how these schools get away with churning out people who have absolutely zero understanding of the world outside CAD.)
>>2973535The timber framing guild's website has a ton of information on this, as well as the forum. If you can't find what you're looking for there, the best option is to find an engineer tied to the guild (they have a page for this) and go ask him questions. Be prepared to pay a consult fee, and to face the skepticism of an experienced timber frame professional. But he'll answer your questions if you've got the cash for a consultation.
>>2974234i have no idea how americans build houses. we have at most a single load carrying wall at the center, but usually it's all pillars that support concrete slab above, walls are just for looks and insulation. also we have little electric hoist to lift material
>>2974234>>2974261now post that pic where whole american big building like this was just osb and tubafores
2 of my outlets suddenly stopped working. Both black and white wires are live WTF. How do I find the origin of the problem?
>>2974093What fucking troglodyte install those outlets? It better not have been a 'professional'. Anyone that uses push in connectors should be tied to a post and whipped. Anyone that even buys an outlet that has them should be put on a list. Once you are on the list you can't operate heavy machinery, own guns, have kids, or vote.
>>2974200I think this is the most probable cause. >>2974135No one touched the panel. The AI suggested a cause I have never thought of before. A light bulb went out in my closet.
>>2974206If a light bulb is wired in like that the wor9mg needs to be fixed.This implies any time you used those outlets the light had to be on and the current t flowing through it varied wildly under these different loads, and the light bulb wpuld have strongly limited the power available too
>>2974247Even in parallel a light bulb can have enough continuity to bridge from the hot side to the neutral side to show the neutral side on anything in the same circuit as hot if the neutral connection to the main box is not present. Op unscrew that bulb and re test. If the neutral wires now show as dead then you know you have a bad neutral connection somewhere that is affecting the entire circuit.
Yeah that sounds like a dropped neutral. I'd call an electrician for that one, and recommend you do. Is it just that outlet?
We got hit with a ton of snow and I'm getting ice dams, some are working their way behind my fascia, but no further up the the roof. My roof has ice and water shield (pic related) so I'm guessing that ice/water it's crept up under the drip edge.I know ice dams can happen with or without gutters, but in this instance the gutter is making it worse, since the icicle can't just go down. And this one problem spot is in the roof valley where two planes meet so extra water.>it's an attic insulation issueI knowWhat's the best thing to do about this? Heat tape in the gutter? Roof rake? I don't want to use salt, especially every time it snows.Ignore it? Not much water even gets in and the house is 70 years old. The thing is when I had the roof done they added a ridge vent, but not soffits, and left the gable vents. Some people are saying you should have either gable by itself or soffit and ridge, but not a mix. So it's possible this is a new problem since then.(1/2)
I'm leaning towards getting a roof rake and cleaning up the lower portion of the problem area, at least even if an ice dam still forms it will be higher up where the ice and water shield can do it's job.But then idk if the dam would still form anyway in the gutter, since water will still run into it and then freeze.
Assuming you have a traditional vented attic space, should definitely get soffit vents, that would solve the problem for good. The airflow will help keep your roof sheathing colder which will prevent ice damming. While you're at it put in some loose fill insulation in the attic, especially thick around the top plate where the trusses meet the wall. This is easily diy w/ rental. You may want to hire the soffit install depending on your ability.Ideally you want more soffit vents than ridge ventilation, because with a ridge vent alone (even with gable vents) you could create an unbalanced system that can pull air from the house through leaks in your air barrier in the ceiling, which could deposit moisture in your attic or just waste your heat by having it sucked up into the attic.
roof rakedepending how bad it is, thatll just leave hard nasty shit at the eaves, hopefully sun can take care of that but if not salt the top then lightly tap it apart with after a bit or just let the salt do its thingthe snow melting is the water getting in your house.if you cant get the relevant part with a roof rake, get up there with a shovel. micro spikes help a lot, arent great for your shingles. if its leaking, which they often do it builds up, that snow has to come off
>>2973807Good insights.>Ideally you want more soffit vents than ridge ventilationI didn't know this.Yeah I think adding soffits will be the first step. Should be a good project right around my skill level. I know these are supposed to have baffles and stuff.>>2973850I should just get a rake too. The problem section is where two roof planes form a valley I probably only need to rake this one little spot which wouldn't be much work.
Completely fucked up tiling, the adhesive didn’t hold at all, it was still a little soft so I was able to scrape most of it off but now wondering what I should do, mud and repaint? Is there a backsplash option for an absolute retard like me?
>>2973900Did you install your outlets that way just so they would be right side up when you took the picture? Like, there are arguments to be made for having the ground prong on the top or bottom but you were just like, fuck it, I want to be wrong no matter what.Then you have the fact that they aren't GFCI when right next to a sink. Maybe you have GFCI breakers but probably not.Also, install 4 outlet models. There are never enough outlets in a kitchen and now is the time to fix that. Rip out whatever pigs breakfast that is, put in larger boxes, and mount 2 GFCI outlets in each box.
>>2974204>mount 2 GFCI outlets in each boxGFCI outlets are very expensive these days. One GFCI can control the plain outlet adjacent to it. Each 20amp wire gets one 20amp GFCI breaker outlet.
>>2974205>GFCI outlets are very expensive these days.A 4 pack at Home Depot is $56. That is $14 a unit. Yeah, it costs more than a standard outlet but it still is not much money. It is so much easier to have the GFCI controls right on each outlet. Its the fucking worst when you have a half dozen outlets protected by a single GFCI. You have to track down which outlet the others are fed from and shitlord residential electricians always install it in the worse fucking spot. I could tell you some stories man. Fucking constructionfags. Always looking for a cheaper way to make everyone's houses worse.
>>2973900Fucking exif
>>2973952You can screw/glue some 1/4 " hardyboard to the back to resurface it.
how do you clean this ? I tried scrubbing the fuck out of it and it's not coming off
>>2970838>>2970979This is what I use. It's the best product I've found for removing rust and mineral stains. It is available in powder, liquid and spray. The liquid works best for OPs situation. Just apply, scrub around, and let it work for a while. They also have a gooseneck version for toilets.
>>2969996>catch 44lmao
>>2973656containers with xbox hueg handles are cancer
>>2971012>>2971003>>2970838whats the big deal with oxalic acid what does it do that bleach doesn't
>>2969983Paint itt. Landlord
I see most brands make two types of SDS drill, but why? what's the difference between a hammer drill and a rotary hammer? what's the difference between these two types, is it just the power? does the first one do the same thing as the second?
>>2969824If the right one drills poorly, why yhe fuck does it come with quick switch? Whats the point in attatching a normal drill chuck to it then?
>>2972002Well it drills , just not as good.Its a multi function, people want that.top rpm is lower and the gearbox is single speed(albeit adjustable),torque is lower(i believe).Some materials for drilling want fast speeds and high pressure, things rotary hammer cant provide.But it can do hammering.Rotary hammer does wonders in drilling concrete because it hammers but is only ok in other materials.>>2971979Perhaps true as far as i can tell from the parts diagrams for these two machines.They both hammer just in a different form factor and the mechanism is for hammering in both despite the different design.one is lighter duty tho. But that doesn't change the fact that the video in itself is correct.The differences usually are in the mechanism and the primary use for it.
>>2969818>hammer drill and a rotary hammerhammer drills are ancient, outdated technology and frankly nobody should be producing or buying them.They do thousands of hits a minute, but the hit energy is so tiny it barely does anything in hard materials.Hammer drills hammer slowly, a few hundred times a minute, but with significant energy to actually hammer through hard rock and concrete.Never ever buy a hammer drill, they make a lot of noise and fail on hard material. Always buy a rotary hammer. You can get them for the same prices these days, no reason to buy the wrong tool for the job.>>2969824If you want dual use, i.e. high RPM drilling in wood and metals, there are combo hammers with switchable chucks and high rpm gear modes as well.>>2969825These are both rotary hammers. Reputable brands give you impact energy per hit in Joules or similar. The left variant is meant to also be used one-handed on a ladder or something, and they top out at around 3.5 Joules for the strongest ones, which is still ~32mm holes in concrete.They will struggle if you want to demolish walls or remove a lot of tile real fast, the right one will do that much quicker.Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2973611hammer drill can make small holes in concrete just fine
pew pew pew
