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File: leslie neilson.jpg (11 KB, 500x260)
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Went to Lowes to look at wood for a project I'm doing. (taking old BSR record players and replacing the crumbling particle board or cracked plastic with butcher block).

>be me, enter the high security tool section with beeping cameras.
>head on over to the saws and planes.
>checking out a no name mini plane- $9.99
>Lowes clerk approaches.
>greets me with "welcome to Lowes"
>holding the plane in my hand, I ask if they have Lie-Nielson block planes
>Lowes clerk responds: "Sorry, no movies here."
>don't know what he was talking about. It may have been a language barrier since he was apparently from Africa or something, heavy accent.
>"I'm looking for a Block Plane by Lie-Nielson", I ask again.
>He responds, "Sir, no movies here" angrily and walks away.

I don't know what he was talking about. What kind of training do they provide? Additionally, I was looking at their wood working project magazines, and every single magazine had high end block planes and dove tail saws and levels,and chisels. None of the featured tools in the magazine in the tool section of Lowes is carried by Lowes.

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serves you right for moving there
D25, 27, 28 former apron wearer.
So much this. lol
former D25, D78 and D94 here, glad to be away from that place but i miss the amount of exercise i used to get running around putting orders together. sitting at desk all day is turning me into a fat ass.
homeless despot:Put 21 bundles of of shingles and other misc roofing crap on cart, go to front to check out. Shoulda been over $600 in stuff bill is 127.. hmm act cool anon, pay and walk out... She only charged for 1 bundle dunno why.

another homeless despot; bought a bunch of sono tubes (concrete forms) 8" 10" and 12" diameters. Nested them inside each other... Clerk scans the three 12" ones, ignores contents.... act cool anon. walk out. Save hundreds again!
oddly enough many of the sono tubes of the same size (same barcodes) nest inside each other. more than once ive put 2-3 tubes together for a customer even though they ring up as the same thing.

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Hey /diy/.

Looking into doing one of those projects that's kind of out of my depth.

I want to make a backpack. Can't find anything that's quite what I want and isn't $200. I have sewn before (we're talking the occasional hem and a couple of little projects that required little more than pushing the pedal and holding on) and have access to a home sewing machine (mum says it's pretty cheap compared to her last one so I'm not sure it's up to the job).

What kind of fabric should I use for the main body though? Leaning toward a heavier weight of canvas, but there's some nice looking twills out there and I hear that choosing an outdoor fabric might net me some water resistance.
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They've got a lot of the stuff I'm after actually. Thanks anon.

How is cordura on innate stiffness though? I'd probably go the 1000 denier for added toughness/waterproofing.
/cgl/ and /fa/ may have better suggestions fyi
>double duty
Probably couch it as a small daytrip bag that can double-duty as an edc to the office. You can't really build a hiking bag that's any good if you're building it around a smaller, lighter, more fashion-conscious design, so start around what you know the hiking bag will need: just enough volume, weatherization, and the sturdiness to bear weight. I'd also put a wide mouth as a plus, and that comes with the roll-top. Kinda sounds like canvas is the right material for this project, waterproofing should be a breeze there.

I know you say it doesn't need to be waterproof but by golly are you going to be glad it's waterproof when you're caught out in the rain. Every. Single. Time. You will be glad that you don't have to worry one bit about your things getting wet. You'll pat your smug ass on the back and feel like the smartest person on the planet. Worth the effort, trust me.

So it sounds like you're sewing up a bag and putting some belts on the sides. Have you drawn anything up?
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That's about the plan. A daypack that looks professional "enough" to be a daily driver. All that really means in minimising the amount of straps hanging around the place and not using any brightly coloured fabrics like they typically do on hiking gear.

I'm not much of an artist but this is where I'm up to in my sketches. Pretty shite at drawing perspective so I don't have anything 3D but I'd say it's simple enough for anyone to see where I'm going with it.
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If you can read my handwriting it says that I'm thinking about elasticating the mouth of the bag. Opinions on that are welcome. I'm trying to force the bag into a natural taper so that it's narrower up around the shoulders than at the base, because my big complaint about roll top bags is when they look like pic related all rolled up.

A lower-tech solution is just to fold the side panels inward before rolling so that they don't flatten out and become wider than the rest of the pack. I might just be overthinking.

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old man died and didn't leave me anything, in addition I had to clean up his shit. this is the only thing that was worth keeping.

what interesting things I could build from it to celebrate his worthless life? there's quite a lot of it.
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You can make a deadly tesla coil, that's it.
>so solenoid wire might be a better term.
the best term would be enamel wire.
Well actually...

>Magnet wire
>From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
>Although described as "enameled", enameled wire is not, in fact, coated with either a layer of enamel paint nor with vitreous enamel made of fused glass powder.
>Modern magnet wire typically uses one to four layers (in the case of quad-film type wire) of polymer film insulation, often of two different compositions, to provide a tough, continuous insulating layer.
>Magnet wire insulating films use (in order of increasing temperature range) polyvinyl formal (Formvar), polyurethane, polyamide, polyester, polyester-polyimide, polyamide-polyimide (or amide-imide), and polyimide.
>Polyimide insulated magnet wire is capable of operation at up to 250 °C.
>The insulation of thicker square or rectangular magnet wire is often augmented by wrapping it with a high-temperature polyimide or fiberglass tape, and completed windings are often vacuum impregnated with an insulating varnish to improve insulation strength and long-term reliability of the winding.

>Other types of insulation such as fiberglass yarn with varnish, aramid paper, kraft paper, mica, and polyester film are also widely used across the world for various applications like transformers and reactors.
>In the audio sector, a wire of silver construction, and various other insulators, such as cotton (sometimes permeated with some kind of coagulating agent/thickener, such as beeswax) and polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) can be found.
>Older insulation materials included cotton, paper, or silk, but these are only useful for low-temperature applications (up to 105°C).
Melt it down and cast it into a plaque commemorating what a shitbag he was, then find a nice public place to install it.
Fucking lost it

How did I do?
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>a KFC drink
Chick-fil-a is the last stand of implicit whiteness
this is why i have no respect for Subaru drives, you guys are the pinnacle of larping
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>being a domesticuck
>Um, original store is in Atlanta

>Literally a fried chicken place

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Looking to get my first oxy-acetylene kit. It's going to be used primarily for heating, annealing, brazing, and (rarely) cutting. Is the one Lincoln Electric one Lowes sells worth it? How hard would it be to find a rosebud tip for it?
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Anybody talking about getting one of these sets for home should go with oxy-propane, much, much safer and less volatile.
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depends what you're using it for (the size of the work and frequency).

if it's literally just occasional mini jobs (brazing some AC size tubing) get a mini set or consider the acetylene turbo torch option.

as someone else pointed out, avoid mapp. it's basically a go between propane and acetylene and expensive.

i've used both oxy propane and oxy acetylene. oxy acetylene is >much< quicker / easier. oxy propane tends to get used in industry sometimes were the work is already hot, or they can gradually cut something with cnc controlled torch. if you're trying to cut plate steel etc, go oxy acetylene or plasma.

i'd be tempted to say pick one up used. it's maybe not so bad with the torch itself but messed up regulators can be (e.g. if someone has previously squirted WD40 into the o2 reg it'll potentially torch itself off the bottle on pressurising). but even then, you'd definitely want to use it outside and shut the bottles off immediately after use / watch for pressure drops on the delivery pressure to check the hose / torch itself isnt leaking; tbf, you should also do this with a new torch.

if you're looking at heating / annealing / hardening things, it can be >much< easier to do that with an oven, so you can more even controlled temperature profiles.

as others have pointed out, the cost of the gas will be the biggest issue. in the uk, cylinders are usually rented. its not an issue for big companies that churn through bottles but for a diy user, using occasionally, the cost of the rent can be similar to the gas fills themselves.

the only reason i'd recommend a full size o2 acetylene set up is if your fairly routinely working on large artistic type projects / bending / chopping fairly chunky half inch, inch+ thickness bits of metal.

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yes, your problem is not a matter of how hot the flame needs to be. oxy-acetylene is great because of the very fine high temp heat delivery you can get. this is important for brazing thick and large materials that wick away the heat before the joint can melt the braze rod. your problem is raw heat delivery.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DHL-shipping-steel-crucible-ZVS-high-frequency-induction-heating-machine/32819975519.html this might interest you.
I've thought about induction for smaller pieces, a 40mm unit like that can get 4 or 5 ounces to melt fairly quickly from what I've seen. That said, I don't know the first thing about electrical tools like that and would probably set myself on fire.

Have you used one before? If so, what's your take?
Call local welding supply stores. Lots of customers bring in tools, torches, regulators for repair and never pay repair costs. Stores will sell them after a while to anyone who asks.

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Figured this would be the place to ask, since I imagine a good lot of you people work in construction.

How do I get a job in construction without any trade skills? I'm currently stuck in Australia, Brisbane to be specific, until I earn enough money to return to my home country. I've been working a load of crappy jobs, but they barely pay rent and I can't really save any money from them. I've heard that construction can pay up to a grand a week, so I want to get in on that. I'm on a working holiday visa.

Can I just rock up to a construction site and ask for the foreman, or do I have to go through something else?

Thanks for the help. Pic unrelated.
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Ive worked with loads of backpackers in Melbourne and Gumtree seems to be the way they get hired for labouring work as well as going from site to site and asking for work.
Pretty sure here you need a white card (to do it legally...) And be generally physically fit. Otherwise maybe advertise on gum tree. Tons of people here hire viets and illegally underpay.
Get a white card online then just walk up to construction sites and ask for a job as a labourer, say you can start immediately. New housing estates are good places to look.
Memes from back in the day. Just like truck driving is a "fantastic paying job"
Don't mention experience. Shotgun spread your job applications, but don't focus on construction, that's a job you pursue to soothe your ego. You are currently broke, and you need to reverse that situation so you can get home.

Honestly, if you're interested in making quick cash, I'd suggest working as wait staff in a restaurant. You've got a temperature-controlled workplace, minimum hazard, zero experience required, potential for good tips if you're not completely autistic and at least one free meal a day. You'll quickly find how much you save by getting your job to comp one meal a day.

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hey guys got any ideas on what i can make with pallets?
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Don't let angry people on the internet tell you what to do, everyone starts their hobbies somewhere.
They are often somewhat rotten and infested is what I've heard. If you're ok with that for your project or you vet it well, then it probably fine.
How the fuck did you make a dog out of pallets?
I might steal this.

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To fellow anons who actually do work in heavy industry or machining instead of playing bob the broke ass builder with shipping containers and garbage, what kind of toolboxes do you use?

Thinking about getting a 14 draw eye level Vidmar boxes and welding up frames with 600 lb castors for my shop.
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CNC fag here. I use a Masterforce from Menards, top and bottom. Works pretty good. Wanted that 42" Milwaukee one but the owner was a faggot about the color for some strange reason.
What brand tools? I have mostly brown and sharpe
Brown and Sharpe basically make nothing now except I think indicators. Maybe I'm not looking in the right spots but I couldn't find any calipers or mics and such when I was searching. Most of my inspection tools are digital Mitituyo with an Interapid test indicator. Hand tools are mostly Husky brand but I'm looking to slowly upgrade those for S&K. Then I've got a small and large drill/driver for various things which are ridgid.
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Some stainless thing that came from Costco that likes to tip over. Pic related, it's the same as this one.

>ships via tractor trailer
>live 5+miles down dirt road
>not tractor trailer approved

What do?
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You mean to tell me you don't have a fork attachment for your tractor?
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This guy knows.
Have it shipped to your work. I've had engines and other large items shipped to mine, then again we also build boats and get big shipments all the time so they don't give a fuck.
I have a home machine shop. When I need a machine delivered, I have it shipped to a local freight company terminal to hold until I can get there with a flatbed tow truck to bring home.
shipping weight 110 pounds

whats the problem here,does it
take a crane?

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It's that time of year again /diy/!
What is your favorite DIY christmas gift?
What is the best DIY gift you have received?
DIY Christmas gift fails?
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It's something I'd wanted to try but didn't have a good reason
>son is gorillaz fan. Daughter wants to buy gift
>unzipped hoody $50 at mall, am mildly offended
>no way we're paying that, diy time
>daughter picks pattern and we head to Wal-Mart
>new hoody $10, rest is crap from around house
I think we're going to make another over weekend. Hardest part is cutting out stencil.
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I'm making puzzle boxes.
Each holds a special treasure (mostly liquor), and the recipient has to figure out how to open it.
I still need to sand and finish the walnut, and fabric-line the interiors.
I'm almost done the puzzle part, and I'll likely finish that tonight.

The graphics were printed on freezer paper, then that was taped onto the wood and I used a credit card to squeeze the ink onto the wood.
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Nothing big, just some home decorations. Pic is for my wife.
That's a wonderful idea
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Really cool.
I have a Turkish puzzle box from when my dad was deployed. Has a key to open. I may steal this idea for next year. Thanks.

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>>1288971 vintage thread

>I'm new to electronics, where to get started?
There are several good books and YouTube channels that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more, many with advanced techniques. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty.

>What books are there?
Getting Started in Electronics Forrest Mims III
Make: Electronics Charles Platt
How to Diagnose & Fix Everything Electronic Michael Jay Greier

All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide: Kybett, Boysen
Practical Electronics for Inventors: Paul Scherz and Simon Monk

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I found the last lead before the input of the amp, it's the output of a capacitor on the underside of the board.

Any suggestions on how to make it a bit more rugged so it doesn't break the second I screw the board back on? It's a rather small contact
I'll probably have to get some much smaller gauge wire or something tomorrow
Solder it in a way that it will not bend, and maybe use a bit of hot glue to hold it in place.
>hot glue
Or silicone, or even better silastic if you happen to have it.
I used silicone once. The little box I used for that project still stinks like chimneys, is something
Not chimneys... My bad. Vinegar

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The goal is to make this room Dust proof - the bricks are falling apart so my idea was to put a veneer over them, I purchased quickcrete mortar mix. and followed the guidelines on the bag.

the pics show what happened next.

I Stuggled to get the concrete to stick to the wall. after i completed the wall it started to fall of in chunks
1. Am I mixing the cemente wrong?
2. Is this my best option or is there something better?
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if it was up to me I would use a wire brush or even a wire wheel on drill or grinder and brush the hell out of it and paint it
Can I pour stucco over a brick house
Is it interior wall? Then I recommend to make a wall out of drywall.
If it is not - just paint them. Trust me, concrete produces even more dust, than old brick
>Can I pour stucco over a brick house
No, stucco is applied by hand with a trowel.

There are systems that can spray strucco, but those are far and away from being DIY-able.
another vote for bonding agent.

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I need /diy/'s creative advice.

I'm watch my sisters house on and off thoughout the year. She lives in sort of a rough neighborhood, An I have a nice car....Which worries me a great deal.

I've already caught one guy looking under my car at 330am by sheer chance of waking up to piss and looking out the window before getting back in bed. I confronted him but he fled and I didn't know if he had a gun too so I didn't chase him.

I'm really worried about my car being vandalized or stolen.

Her house has CCTV but it doesn't have any type of alert function.

I want to make some type of motion alert device to point at my car in the driveway so if anyone gets near my car it will awake me.

I was thinking of using a flood light somehow, But I'm not very electrical savvy so I'm stuck there....Ideas?
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ma nigga.


What are those type of alarms called and what type of plug do I use?
They are called buzzers, they have bare leads and are meant to be powered by DC.
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best motion detecting audible alarm system out, been in use for 1000's of years
Buy motion detection lights at any hardware store, buy an alarm, open it up and re wire one light to the alarm. Viola.

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The thread for all things alcohol. Share what you're making or get advice on what to make next.
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Bananas are high in starch. Can yeast break it down into glucose?
What the best yeast to use with cider and what is the highest percentage alcohol yeast you would suggest?
Yeast doesn't do that. You need amylase enzymes.
First step, kill the fucking mice and clean up their shit. Sage grass or nag champa overcomes any smell
Had my first bad batch. Been brewing almost exclusively cider so far, mostly five gallon batches from kits. First time brewing a five gallon batch from cider from a mill. Ended up putting some tart cherry juice with it in primary along with some fresh dried cherries. When I went to rack it into secondary it looked and smelled outstanding, but when i bottled it it seemed to have lost most of its scent and flavor. After it carbonated I tried a bottle and it tasked more like olive oil than anything else. Any ideas on how this could happen. If it means anything I used cider from Blake's in SE Michigan.

>Tfw only have Dewalt tools.
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>tfw no tools
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that's a good find but that new sale price is inflated. that's the price on their website but nobody buys that shit.

that's a mechanic who's m8s with the sales rep or gets some kickback for free tools, so he convinces you to buy only snapon tools. you're essentially threatenned with cleaning out the bog pit for the rest of your apprenticeship if you refuse. the rep comes around with his van stocked with a mechanics "shop starter kit" and just asks you to sign over your entire apprentice tool allowance for a few hundred worth of tools.

I cannot understand how any self respecting mechanic would not just buy some cheap generic roller drawers and weld up a frame out of steel sections.

its more about having the right blade. you wont be able to hold the tool if it's that unbalanced. if you get a fine tooth saw with appropriate blade profiles for the job, vibration dampenning slots and set the height correctly you wont have problems. I have a 50$ ozito saw with a diablo blade and it cuts perfectly. you just wont get good cuts out of a demo blade.
Fair point. I certainly wouldn't have bought a chest that was actually priced at that amount... a couple hundred bucks is my limit.

That's some shitty apprenticeship shenanigans. Fuck.

There is a troll sitting on 85 tons of 10mm sockets i swear. Fuckers bought craftsman. Was hoping to get that shit at walmart but nothing yet
Please tighten your chain before it flies off and cuts off something useful.

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