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Old thread >>1321687

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute

>general info
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide

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he should be able to quite easily notice if his stepper is missing steps shouldn't he?
nobody cares about a goddamn screwdriver, it's quite obvious by now that he's keeping it up just as a joke
Not necessarily. You have to listen for it and watch the printer when it's going, but without being there I can only offer a list of possible solutions based off of the given symptoms. From the pictures it's most likely a mechanical or slicer issue, as the layers seem to shift in the same place every time, but you never know.
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yeah such a repeatable problrm ought to be quite easy to fix
and here's a picture with a bit better lighting
Just because someone was paid to shill something doesnt make it shit
The screwdriver is pretty great

How else is BangGood going to advertise? Most people dont buy shit from them in the first place and you think of them as a marketplace not a manufacturer

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>buy a clock,
>put it in a pencil box,
>call it the ibomb
>visit the whitehouse
I'm a 25 year old virgin who lives with his parents and uses his father's tools.
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I spent four years learning how to weld (trade school during high school, followed by two years college associates degree for welding and fabrication) and I still don't know how to find "the sweet spot" of amps when welding, I somehow have aws certificates for these same processes but it's been several months since I last actually welded with a machine that wasn't labelled "Abcdef" instead of amps that Idk if I'll even be decent at it at my next job whenever that is. Also I got a osha30 card but still do stupid shit, now I just know there's a 30% chance I'm gonna an hero by accident.
>Mfw I'll probably somehow become that weld inspector that can't weld yet has you grind and re-weld your work b/c of a pinhole towards the end.
What is that creature living inside it's mouth?!
This is genuinely amusing.

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Alright I need a sanity check here.
I'm trying to figure out all the calculations for a solar setup.

Here's the quick run down.

It's for aircon, so only running it in the summer, and possibly running it lightly for heat in the winter.
So 6 full sun hours.
The load is 1kw.
I want to run it for 12 hours
So ~6 hours on battery.
So I need 600Ah of 12v batteries.
And about 2.5Kw of solar panels.
Total cost currently of around $6000 at the cheapest. This is /diy/ after all.

Now the thing that I am getting stuck with is the lifetime of the batteries, in cycles.

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I think your system is undersized. A 1 KW load (for 12 hours), needing to be sustained daily, on 6 hours a day of sun...

Assume 65% efficiency from the panels and charging circuitry:
2500 Watts * .65 = 1625 watts power output if no clouds.
1625 * 6 hours = 9750 Watt-hours.
Your load is 12 KWhrs a day from the air conditioner alone.

System needs about 4 KW of panels to function reliably.

You'll also want at least 2 days of storage in case storms roll through, so you're talking 24 KWhrs of usable storage. That's a lot.

Assuming a 24 volt battery bank; You'll need 1000 Ah of storage.
You can buy Tesla modules (out of the cars) and create balance systems yourself and stuff and tie them together, which can be gotten for $1500 for a 250 Ah module on ebay. You'll need 4 of course.

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What is all this about panel efficiency? Forgive my ignorance, but I have uust assumed that the panels actually put out the watts that they are rated for when they see direct sunlight in ideal conditions. Obviously not for the full 6 hours of direct sunlight, but certainly more then 65%. As for charging controller, using a mppt or whatever it's called should be 95% efficient.
But from there, I don't have numbers in inverter or anything. I think the mini split uses VFDs, so it would be really cool if I could generate whatever the rms of 240v is and power the DC bus of the VFDs directly, which would completely cut an inverter out of it and the cost of that.

As for clouds and all that, i don't care because if there's a bunch of clouds and stormy stuff, it's probably not going to be 100° out, and the ac won't have to run very hard.
So I'm pretty confident that I can get away with a much lower amount of batteries.
And because I am sticking with a 50% DOD, I can just flip a switch and have an 80% DOD for more runtime in a time of great need.

Don't get me wrong I would like to build a large system to really not have any worries or limitations but it's just not cost effective or affordable. That being said, panels are cheap for me because California. I can just get in my car, and drive to LA or SF and pick up a pallet for under a dollar a watt. It's the batteries that suck ass and cost too much for what they are.
Also on the Tesla modules, I just do t think they are even cheaper then say Lifepo4 cells new.
I'm not Teslas lawyer, and I can't be bothered to read through their warranty, but I believe it's for 10 years on the battery. And probably limited to an average of 100 charges a year, or almost two times a week. That means they expect it to last around a thousand cycles without losing too much capacity. If I had to guess, it's probably 80% of original.
That's really crappy when you also consider that Lifepo4 cells will come with a warranty.
No, the car modules.

I did a bit of research on the powerwalls, and I actually can't just buy them it seems. I'd have to Gm through an installer, and they want permits and all that stuff.

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Being a soyboy I never got the hang of making things with my hands and spare parts and am regretting it.
Thankfully I have my old man here still to help me out, and he's pretty good with such things, but I am still totally lost and want to have an idea of what to do so I'm not useless.
a thread died for this non-question and blurry photo of literally nothing
Thanks for the help bud.
Youtube videos are your friend OP.

Even my roommate who is studying neuroscience still uses youtube for his studies hahah.
Look anon. I feel your frustration at trying to diy without knowing how to diy. But the top of this thread clearly says to Google shit or consult the compendium. Also youtube.
This counts as clutter famalam.
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get some 2x4's and a sheet of plywood
cut them up
stick it together

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I bought myself a gaymer chair for 300 goddamn dollarydoos for the exclusive purpose of being able to adjust my armrest height on my slightly too high desk (so my wrists don't act as a pivot point on my desk and continue to give me nerve compression pain like normal chairs), and it's still too low for my desk.

I've read you can sometimes ask manufacturers for a bigger gas/hydraulic lift thing (I've sent them an email), if in the event they knock me back I was thinking I could get a hard plastic floor matt and stack some cardboard boxes evenly under it to raise the chair higher, but it would look tacky as fuck.

Any MacGyver-like brainboxes on here know of any hardware solutions I can make on the chair to raise the armrests or entire seat? (Desk is made of solid metal and supported by metal draws, so I can't cut it down)
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answer is tray.

if you're under 40 and already feeling the wrist pain then it won't be too long before you're a cripple. start watching ebay for a cheap maltron and a vertical mouse or rollermouse. or reduce your desk hours!
The wrist pain is mostly related to poor desk design - it doesn't have a rounded edge like in your pic and it's slightly too high, I end up supporting the weight of my forearm on the edge of the desk
Can you add a keyboard drawer for the mouse/keyboard, to lower your placement of where you interact on the desk?

Alternatively try plywood sheets, have them cut at the yard. First in half, then for where the tongue goes under the desk. add layers of 3/4 inch plywood as needed.
Afraid not, it's already got a thin tray/draw mounted underneath, but it's was designed for storage instead of putting a keyboard and mouse there, it's not very strong and it's got a large rim over the edge that prevents you from properly utilising it as a keyboard tray.

Not a bad idea with the plywood sheets, it would look better than cardboard boxes at least.

I also saw a youtube video where a guy unscrews and takes off the armrests, and jams a few mini neodymium magnets in the connecting area between the points of contact, and screws it back together. The issue was supposed to sort out wobbling, but it looks like it might raise the armrest slightly too.
Put the chair on a wooden pallet.

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In this thread we talk about:
- ham radio
- projects you have going on related to radio
- baluns and ununs on salvaged cores
- compact antennas for 160m band.
- discussing how should a new general trhead look like.
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This image was for my first build, using a 250uH coil and a 0-365pf variable cap.

Referring to my 1st attempt using a simpler circuit. I pulled apart an old spool of telephone line and ran a wire from my 2nd floor bedroom to the backyard fence. (about 60 ft.) Didn't have a ceramic insulator, so I capped the fence end with some hot glue. Using the screw on an electrical outlet as a ground.
I could try an earth ground, but all I have is a tent peg or could try a metal coat hanger. I'm the NW US, so the dirt is usually damp most of the year.

Referring to my first build. Not sure what you mean by peaking. There is no "sweet spot" when turning the cap. If I remember correctly, the one station was loudest when the cap plates were fully unmeshed and lost volume as I turned it.

I used to have a few radio shack kits when I was younger. Those crystal radio projects used a ferrite based coil, and picked up stations 20 miles away with only a 10 foot wire antenna.
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Connecting antenna like that kills selectivity, adding just one capacitor would help.

> wire from my 2nd floor bedroom to the backyard fence. (about 60 ft.
More than enough.

>Using the screw on an electrical outlet as a ground.
Is it grounded?

>. There is no "sweet spot" when turning the cap. If I remember correctly, the one station was loudest when the cap plates were fully unmeshed and lost volume as I turned it.
Inductance was too high. Removing 1/2 of turns should've helped.
I don't have any small trimmers, so I'll try out different caps on the antenna line.

I'm assuming the outlet screw is grounded. Will try to setup an earth ground tomorrow.

I'm hesitant to pull apart my first coil, as I took a lot of care in winding it. I think I'll start a new coil and test the performance every ten turns or so.
Use SI units and save yourself the headache.

Add a large-ish capacitor in series with the trimmer, the resultant capacitance will be C1*C2/(C1+C2); somewhat smaller. But changing the coil is preferable.
>I'm hesitant to pull apart my first coil, as I took a lot of care in winding it. I think I'll start a new coil and test the performance every ten turns or so.
You don't need to. I was referring to your previous set up. Complete whatever you started and work from there. There must be "a sweet spot" so the volume of the station is at its maximum. If there is no such spot then the LC circuit is way off.

>I don't have any small trimmers, so I'll try out different caps on the antenna line.
Any capacitor in that range would work.

Again it's not really needed if you use inductive antenna coupling, but you'll improve selectivity if you replace it with another variable capacitor (15-500pF) in series with the antenna coil. Varying distance between the coils also helps.

Oh and don't forget that you need to use high-Z headphones, generic 16-33 ohm earbuds aren't suitable, unless you use AF transformer to do impedance match.

PLEASE help out this dumb ass college kid, /diy/.

So my toilet is clogged in my dorm and I have tried, hot water, it did not work, tried plunging it with our shitty (now literally) plunger and it would not plunge. I tried using a wire hanger but the water is too shitty to see if I am getting in there and All I could fedl was wire on porcelain. I turned off the water valve to see if the water level would decrease a bit but it did not change even after an hour. The water is still very high and full of shit. My college is a private college and is very jewy, calling maintenance at all results in a 50 dollar fine. I do not want to get fined, nor do I want to have the embarrassment of getting my balls busted by the maintenance guys. Is there anything I can do at this point to remedy the situation or will I have to call maintenance. I am going to try to go find a really nice plunger because our current one is one of those old pink suction cup ones that has no suction. I want to do everything possible before calling maintenance. I will seriously buy whoever’s idea works pizza if it is successful.
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They are actually the best. They suck up a fuckload of water and force it through the pipe, which unclogs it. I have never used chemicals to clear a clog in my life because of these boys.
Looks like you'll be paying the 50$ fine. Let it sink in and accept it. Now, to get back at your college you need to create more than 50$ worth of damage. Just keep shitting in or around it until someone else calls maintenance and the college has to bring out the big bucks for some shit hoarder cleaning crew.

College is a goddamn scam, and this is what you fucks get for charging me a 10$ graduation fee. Fucking useless paper pushers, almost as bad as the government.
$50 is really not that bad for a plumber call out.
back yard;
cover your shit.
If plunging didnt work then you probs have a forign object in there . your gunna have to remove the toilet. Youtube.

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A recruiter for 84 lumber contacted me through indeed and wanted me to apply for manager trainee.

Does anybody work here? What's it like?
Does it pay well?

The 84 lumber youtube account doesn't give a whole lot for what they are all about.
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God, please be joking.

>18 y/o 'manager'
>Yes sir! I'll be here at 6AM sharp SIR!

I bet you sucked him off too.

Protip: thats garbage.
thats literally under minimum wage here in canada and more hours than id like to work. no idea what country youre in. if jobs a scarce in your area and you want to move up in the company go for it. otherwise, you could do better
>under minimum wage here in canada

Did you try converting from Freedom bucks?

Its ~$16.5 in Maple money.
Put something degenerate in the op, /b/ will at least bump

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Convince me this isnt the god tier tool brand lads
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Its just interesting when you see companies that were founded before the depression and during the war, and makes you wonder what did they manufacture to survive it.
Mitsubishi made the Zero airplane for the Japs. Just about every tank, transport, or truck made for the USA during the war was made by a car or locomotive manufacturer. Rockwell, the people that made Delta and Porter-Cable tools up until about 1980, were all over aerospace contracts. Westinghouse made nuclear power plants. None of this stuff is strange. Someone has to make the stuff.
Wasn't it operation paperclip where we saved all the best Germans for ourselves?
I don't find it strange, just interesting.
Milwaukee’s hand tools are meme China shit

Power tools are good though

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>Not planting all your vegetables at counter height
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I'm assuming he doesn't use tables for everything.

Besides, underneath you can keep tools or logs innoculated with mushrooms.

I wouldn't do this for everything but for a few beds in sfg, it's a solid idea.
Why wouldn' I just build a counterbhigh box with no bottom and fill it with dirt so I get the best of both worlds?
Just break the stalk over to reach the ears.
>Not planting all your vegetables in your attic
Are your windows ground level? I don't understand this post.

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>Found some woodland which hasn't been visited by anyone in years. Completely overgrown by brambles. Land is owned by some large international owned oil company who owns lots of land around here and don't do anything with it.
>I've cleared out a square patch of brambles and I'm going to build a cabin out of pallets. Layed down some concrete blocks (I can only transport 7 at a time as I have a small car). Found a local dude who can sell me 80 pallets cheap.
>Gonna put a membrane in-between the pallets and the blocks.
>How do I level out the ground? I have a spade and string.
>Also any additional advice is most appreciated. First time doing something like this.
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Not on texas.

They have tex mex tho. Faggots think they are better than real mexicans and hate them a lot. Ironic i know.

Its just so fucking big and so low population they get fuckt
>pull apart pallets

Not as easy as it sounds
Most pallets use ridged nails/staples
The wood will break before the nails pull out

If you plan on dismantling them, check before you buy that they will come apart
WNC? is this a state with three letters wtf
Sawzall or buy new imo.
Right, he said in civilized countries, not Hickistan.

I'm looking to learn a trade that I could possibly do on the side. What are some relatively quick/cost effective trades to get certified in?

Pic not related.
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Plumbing, electric, hvac.

Pretty much any common handyman trade. Maybe use one skill to pay for others.

My buddy did that. Has a truck and a toy hauler trailer full of tools. Sticker on the side and is so busy he finally charges more than anyone in town and refers half his work to other bros. And he does it full time.
Actually. If no liscense you can get pretty good at plumbin with little practice. Buy a fuckton of fittings and go nuts
Electric sounds good.
A truck and a ladder....boom your in

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I need a lighter that works in the cold (0F) and in the wet, not underwater, but with wet hands.

None of that electrical shit, I need to be able to light a pipe.

BICs are nice, but dont work well below freezing
Clippers are nice, but I swear their flint last a week.
Neither work well with wet hands

What else? Zippo?
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Not him, but I use caffeine tablets because coffee tastes like ass.
try again
get a sparky boi
thats just because you are a child. the older you get the more your taste buds adapt to bitter things. its like drinking beer for the first time. no one likes it but it gets you drunk. force yourself to drink coffee and learn to love it. there are lots of benefits. caffeine tabs are a lot harder on your system.
> The southern cross is exclusively visible from Australia

I mean, I know you're a dogshit stupid racist cunt, but come on man, this is some next level retardation.

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So I got home after 2 months and I found out about those fuckers when I got into the bathroom.
How do I fucking exterminate those motherfuckers without fucking myself in the process or breaking the light bulb.
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>contacted some institute just to take out a few wasps
>that hand
Not surprised you're a chink.
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I'm told that brake cleaner makes their outsides shrink around their insides and they squeeze themselves to death
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I have seen this in action

Also, shop vac with soapy water in the tank. Never show fear.
>If you're brave
Hose it down with bugspray, remove light, replace.
>If you're a pussy
Hurl a bugbomb into the room, come back later clean it up.

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Hello /diy/. I am from a shit country and wish to move to west Europe to make better life.
I know how to make lots of things but have no scholarics or qualifics.

I don't think to be an employee of someone is right for me and I think it is better to be owner/driver of myself.

Here is some works I have done before as favor or for small money. (in my country its not worth to do this as work)
I am not level:expert, but can make a nice job with autism detail that do not receive complaints.

welding of steel with arc
welding of sheet metal wit o2 and acet gas
cutting steel with o2 acet
cleaning of automobile interiors
cleaning and polish of autocar paint
painting with hair brush (vehicle or machinery)
painting with spraybrush

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If you're a decent welder you'd get work in the UK no problem.

Otherwise just start a car washing business like every other cunt that comes here

(Or paint hair)
From what I see in my area in Belgium, those skills are quite useful to have. Many people moving here just live in a shared house upon arrival, and work near or in the docks. If you can get started as a dock worker here, the pay is pretty high, and things like night and shift work are all payed extra. (Dockworkers unions are very powerful)

You could move to Belgium, work a boring job and live in a shared house (saving up money) then eventually start your own business.

There are a lot of programs for recent immigrants to help you integrate and learn the language, all of which are free. After that, just start your own company (which also costs jack shit) get a liability insurance and make a name for yourself as a reliable contractor. I'd say drywall (gypsum), painting and carpenting/flooring are in high demand.

Beside that, you'll get great social security and access to many programs which will help you develop your skills.
If you are not white, don't fucking come to my country or any european country, fuck off, you're risking being killed on the next white uprising. We don't need you and we don't want you, we are full already.
>I am from a shit country and wish to move to west Europe
Fuck off, move to US instead since they're (((multicultural))) already and leave Europe alone. There's already more than enough shitskins here.
>Ukraine? You might be able to get legitimate refugee status.
o rly?

Also, OP could be from a shithole within EU. Could be not. Huge difference. Free movement in the former case, residence permits and shit and chance of getting deported in the latter.

OP, if you can make €50 in 3 hours in your country, I think you are very likely to get disappointed when moving to whichever "better" country. Instantly finding a job which pays you that much wont be super easy.

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