There is a door in my apartment going to the landlords part(some dumb rule to avoid paying taxes), and I want to sound proof it, having gotten permission from the landlord.The door is probably never gonna open, but I don’t want this to be a permanent solution as I want it to be easily removable.wat do?
>>2794985Build a cork for the door opening.-measure inside door jamb-deduct 1.5" from width and height measurements-buy a sheet of homasote (preferable) or 3/4 MDF-cut to size-wrap in 7/16 carpet pad using spray glue and staples-now wrap this in short pile carpet, use glue and staples, make the seams neat-Insert this "cork" into door openingI've built this to augment the soundproofing ability of various doors over the years...I play music and it gets loud. For my application I've used hinges, but you can probably get away with just jamming it inside the door jamb, if the door handle doesn't get in the way
Similar to the other guys suggestion but less steps and probably cheaper, buy a sheet of rigid foam insulation and cut it to fit in the doorway. You can fill in the edges with weather stripping. I think a better solution would be to put a solid core door in but that's not your problem and you don't want to start doing your landlord a bunch of free favors
>>2795048I’ll assess if this is feasible, thanks>>2795055The door is actually solid core. The sound is already quite muffled but there are gaps around the frame
>>2795055The secret to soundproofing is mass, and foam doesn't have a lot of that, that's where the MDF comes in. Good acoustic baffles have a good amount of heft to them.>>2794985I'm the cork guy from earlier. I forgot to mention mass-loaded vinyl sheet, look into it. I think the cork is the best solution tho if it works for your application. Good luck.
Wasn’t sure what board to ask this. I’m looking for replacement parts for these “stabilizing” rods for a glass desk I have. Basically when they are attached to the legs of the desk and screwed taught they prevent the desk from moving side to side… basically just tightens the whole desk together. I’ll post more pictures to explain.
They're called tension rods
>>2795301Ah haa. Okay that makes sense. My issue is the middle part is basically stripped so I can’t get it tight.
>>2795303If you have like an Ace hardware or something similar nearby you should be able to bring it in and find some matching replacement parts for about $2, just scribble on it with a sharpie or something so they don't think you're trying to steal it
>>2795304right on, thanks for the advice, what would i even be looking for though? I'm not mechanically super mechanically inclined
>>2795309A threaded rod coupling nut, they're a little more expensive than I thought but still like $15
ACK-SHUALLY it's *designing* edition>What is this and why would I care?Field Programmable Gate Arrays (FPGA) are how poor-fags (<7f plebs) can design a complex IC and test it out QUICKLY at home.You could design a fairly complicated IC for a small project and use the FPGA as an ASIC-lite (with a flash-storage PCB) or to use your design to get an actual IC etched yourself or in a group-funded chip print. (Like https://tinytapeout.com/)The basic process is: HDL -> Yosys -> nextpnr -> FASM.You can also use vendor software from Xilinx etc, but it is very locked down. I would argue it's more convoluted as well.>Open Source Toolchainhttps://f4pga.readthedocs.io/en/latest/getting-started.htmlIcestorm - Lattice Ice FPGAs, ice40 is very cheap and lots of dev boards.Trellis - Lattice ECP5, relatively cheap with more powerX-Ray - Xilinx 7 series, Much more money, but lots of advanced features. Not 100% functionality supported with FOSS.>Verilog/VHDLComment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2789262>Start conceptualizing everything in terms of mathematically pure boolean functionsYou make that sound a little scary; Here is a simple example.This will be a moore type state machine where the outputs depend solely on the internal state, there are also mealy state machines that have combinatorial logic connected to inputs in the output path. Anyway.Just start out with a single state machine and a timer. The counter forms the delay between lights. The state machine is GREEN YELLOW and RED. In each of the three states one of the outputs is wired high and the others are wired low. Define your timer to increment on every clock tick and if the timer is say all 1's, let it roll over to all zero's and change the color state to the next one. Probably add a little reset logic and you are done.
>>2790591You of course could define this in a more low-level way, but the synthesis tools will understand a state machine defined in this high level fashion and choose how to implement it.
What is the /absolute cheapest/ board I could get if I just want to dabble around and blink an LED or something?
bump
Trying to figure out exactly what I'd need to buy/download to get started on this. So far I have:>ICE40 LP384 - $2.40 on Digikey>QFN-32 breakout boards from ebay>Soldering paste (to reflow in my oven)>1.25V power regulator>Input/output level shifters (would 2 series diodes for input, BJT amplifier for output work?)>An SPI programmer>Software from the Lattice siteAssume I know nothing about EE and don't have a fully stocked lab. Am I missing anything else obvious? Can I breadboard a blinking light for under $30 yet?Also stupid question: it says this is "one-time programmable." Does that mean you literally get one chance to program it, then it's junk? Or can I continue to reprogram the SRAM indefinitely, and ignore the NVCM (one time) memory?>>2789247There's a youtube tutorial for everything these days fren
Does anyone else feel intense amounts of rage when watching one of these DIY shows as much as me?I'm a pretty laidback guy, but these shows make me want to assault women and fags.
>>2793340>>2793340You sounds like a fuckin' nut to me.
>>2793967Wat?
The quintessential homeowner knocking a hole in their drywall with a sledgehammer scene. Always makes me cringe. Everyone always asks to come help me demo a house because it looks so fun. I tell them it's fun for about 10 minutes then it's just work. Especially if you're remediating fire or flood damage, having shitty soot rain down all over you for eight hours sure is a blast
>>2794016>needing a reason to assault women and fagsOP is truly a lost cause.
>>2795058>knocking a hole in their drywallAt least that's an actual thing; usually it's taking a few limp wristed tentative slaps at a kitchen cabinet door with a sparkling new sledge hammer while wearing equally pristine and unblemished goggles and hardhat and an unbuttoned color coordinated short sleeve polyester "work" shirt over your street clothes.Don't forget to add in the jaunty, quick paced royalty free "getting to work!" background music.
Give it to me straight. Can i just paint aluminum siding without washing it?
>>2794441kill yourself
>>2794457A little chelation and oxidization ain’t hurt?
>>2794441You CAN but in that case it's stupid to paint it since the likely end result will be leprosy, so OP should certainly do it.
>>2794478What do you even mean by that?
>>2794481Because dirt and other shit on siding does nothing good for paint adhesion.
So I was wondering how difficult this dream deck/"treehouse" would be to DIY? My property is next to a steep canyon and I always wanted to place an access deck around the oak tree in my backyard. It's 80+ years old so I'm terrified of permanently killing it. The slope is not vertical but nearly, and the actual tree is a lot smaller than the image. I calculated the cost and it will be roughly 20-30k in materials. If I can even find a professional who would bother to do this I'd expect it to cost 100k+So my question is based off the concept image, is this feasible to attempt DIY? Or am I being way too optimistic?
>>2793323>red tapeCan you explain that expression to a germanon?Captcha: YTA x2 kek
>>2793354Im not that anon but i once renovated a house that was built in 1604 on a hillside, the medieval carpenters did not have a equal height footing and so cut all standing beams different heights, now the groundfloor was sloped and the first flloor was level, you had to crouch if you walked uphill in that house, and the foundation was made of an assortment of river and field stones thrown into the ground. And if you say we get the flood of a century EVERY century..
>>2794585Nigger its an ai inage, you cant discus carpentry details inferred from it, obviously its fake and gay.
>>2795017Obtuse regulation, aka your entire society
>>2795018should've just torn it down and threw up a modular home with a nice seacan in the yard
My retarded boomer Dad cut down a bunch of tree branches (red circles in the picture below) and now you can see straight through into our backyard. These trees are 20 years old. I don't know why he did this. My Mom is very sad that he did this, she is crying.Mother's day is coming up and I want to be a good son. What can I build or do or plant to try and help fill this space back in and have it look nice?
>>2793080Actually, quite a topical thread for me. Zoomer here with a boomer dad who hasn't retired yet (old enough to see the moon landing), and I find that he *over* DIYs.He knows his shit in a few places, for example he did a full cabinet overhaul for our living room and his shop from scratch, and has a carefully restored vintage motorcycle. But I find the prestige gets to him. It's making me resent DIYing. Everything has to have the "dad touch", save for some more larger and intensive projects which he contracts out. I've found recently if there's something that I want or that needs to be fixed around the house, either he doesn't fully fix the problem, or leaves it in a bandaid like state where if you touch it wrong, the whole house of cards comes crashing down and I have to have him "fix" it again. Why would I ask dad for help with the squealing noise on my car's brakes, if when I get it back it's still making the noise? Clearly you know some things about cars to swap the brake pad, but not enough to solve the problem. There goes a day of my vehicle being nonoperational just for the problem to remain the same. I'd rather just bring it to someone qualified and have them do it for a little bit of cash. I know you can save a ton of money DIYing, but how do I overcome this hump of the DIY not being "right"? I really don't like this attitude of "let me fuck it up first then go pay someone to unfuck it."
>>2794898Ignore him, do all of it yourself and because you studied thoroughly it will be right. Most people refuse to study and make other mistakes like failure to have factory or high quality tech data (easy to download most times).You don't have to let him do shit if you're an adult. You don't have to involve him at all. He sounds insane so I wouldn't.
>>2792875Plant some roses and build some rose-grwoing helper trellis thing. Your mom will like it all bitches love roses.
>>2794874Been saying the same thing, i cant find it now but there ws the case of a nun who did her regular nun work until she died and when she died they did a brainscan and her brain was seriously torn to shreds by alzheimers and strokes and what not, but you could not notice in her daily doing because she was still fit because she was required to.
>>2793300>don't be an ageist Don't be a faggot.
My bikes back tire is not running smoothly and the rim, where the breaks grind against is apparently worn out, according to my bicycle fixing neighbor. Now, I'm stuck at the crossroads: should I try and fix it myself or go to a shop?I could go to a shop who would order a new rim and reuse the old spokes. You apparently need a machine they have to install them in a way that the wheel doesn't end up wobbling and runs smoothly. Option 2: Take matters into my own hands, order a full tire from the Internet and give it a shot myself.Not too sure what I'm getting myself into, what would end up being cheaper and what I have to keep in mind. Any constructive comments appreciated
>>2794695>breaks>the rim is worn outI suspect you're retarded. Are the pads worn? Do they scrape when you ride? Not stop? There is about a 0% chance it's your rim unless you bent the fuck out of ands and visibly damaged. The tire has fucking ZERO to do with the "breaks". Take a picture, describe what's actually the problem instead of fucktarded imaginings of what your neighbor meant and then fuck off to >>>/n/
Get a spoke wrench and re-true it on the bike. Look up a youtube video. It's a long process so get comfortable. Rig up your bench vise to hold the bike without damaging it.Or, drop $200 on a new set of wheels, get the same exact size. Aluminum wheels are an upgrade from steel.
>>2794695Wheel balancing is a pain, but doable. The better option is to use disc brakes instead of turning your entire wheel into a disposable part
>>2795133>turning your entire wheel into a disposable partI've ridden many a mile with the old style caliper brakes and never saw the tiniest bit of wear or damage to my rims. On the other hand, if you are a moron like OP and somehow have your "breaks" grinding against your rim, anything is possible.
>>2795139Rim brake wheelsets are built with wear indicators. They are the rotor, though there's a lot more material to wear down
turbo diesel engine broke, how to fix?
>>2795115I'm trans btw
>>2795106Take off the busted part put a working part back, simple as
>>2795117>>2795119>tranny cope
>>2795117
if you have to ask just take it to a dealership
Contractor quoted me $7000 for an asphalt driveway (approx 800 sq ft) and that was the lowest bidder out of 3 bids. 3" of asphalt over 3" gravel. For $7k I can put in a concrete driveway (8" gravel base, 6" concrete) myself if I rent a mini-excavator to do the digging, make the concrete forms myself, and broom finish the concrete once it's poured.I just don't have any experience running an excavator, so I'm trying to figure out what I need to know in advance.Do I need to worry about it bogging down in soft clay soil or do the tracks spread the weight enough to avoid that?Will the excavator's weight compact the gravel if I drive over it a few times, or would I need to rent a compactor/tamper?Can I drive it back to my place on a rural road, or will it tear up the asphalt? (I'd prefer not to pay for delivery if I don't have to.)
>>2794121buy a mini, do the job, then sell the miniit'll be way cheaper then renting
>>2794754>18x30>backhoe or skid steer may work betterget one with a 4 in one bucket so you can use the scraper function of the bucket.https://youtu.be/7Tztj9lZLus?si=FQk9-suHOh2aM1cIhttps://youtu.be/TE2ax8w9xY0?si=LtpIuH3J72PO2StH
>why hire a contractor if I can spend a week and do it myself lol, btw i've never done it before
>>2794908this, but unironically.
>>2794908You wanna learn how to build driveways or consoome product on the weekend?
I just bought this shower rough in valve from amazon and i noticed the water flow is restricted by this much smaller hole on the NPT ports.Wouldn't this massively reduce pressure?Are all shower valves like this?Should I return it?
>>2794937>noWhy? It's a smaller hole.>a lot of them are, but not allWhy do they do this?
Drill it out a bit. I did that to the showerhead I bought and it was a great choice. That thing blasts. Fuck the water bill. notmyproblem.bmp
>>2794556Just buy a valve thats not designed for showers, or one that has a little plastic insert flow reducer instead. Those can be removed.
>>2794674The Bernoulli principle requires laminar flow which this will clearly not have.
>>2794556Looks bigger than the hole in the valve of a standard garden hose faucet aka stopcock so this should be able to blast the user with the intensity of the average garden hose.
The previous owner of this house apparently either did not know shit or hired people who did not know shit to do shit in his house.>Install 1/2" cement backer board in shower surround and on the floor with 1" drywall screws >No sealing the corners of the surround backer>Self-installed the shittiest vinyl sliding window without tempered glass in the alcove using common nails for the flashing (rust streaks on the siding now)>Zero attention to blocking water ingress around the window inside (there is a window by the tub alcove) - no caulk anywhere>Zero attention to blocking water ingress around the mixer valves or tub spout rough-ins - no caulk anywhere>No caulk around the grab handle mounting>Did not extend the toilet flange to account for the tile and instead used two wax rings>For some stupid reason took out the crippling under the bath wall (sits on a bearing wall) and so of course the resulting water damage for all their other stupid shit made all the floorboards warp away from the unsupported wall above and the wall itself sagged in the middle.It's that last one that got my panties in a real bunch.Then like the good white folk they were they boxed it all in with drywall and fucked off for a couple of decades before having the cast-iron American Standard tub spray finished and then selling their shit-dripping, wall-weeping, 10-inch-fucking-stub-outs-sticking-out-of-the-wall mess off to me instead of investing the money in fixing it.Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2792653> on behalf of white people everywhere I apologize. Did you know that the white is a made-up phenomena? People are Hungarian or Irish or polish etc. - there's no white. So you have to be more specific about the nationality, so we can make fun of them better. As for your repairs, please illuminate us, on how you did not have it properly inspected, before purchasing the property. if you purchased it properly, acquiring the property by paying the unpaid property taxes, instead of waiting for it to go retail and list like any other maroon, then if this is the only problem, I'd say you have it made.
>>2792668Generic whitefolk. I don't care where their ancestors fornicated.The damage was concealed behind poorly installed drywall. The dip in the floor is (was) behind and under the vanity, the inspector could not have seen it. The cement board that was on the floor seems to have bridged the valley for the tile, so to speak.In general the house was patched up convincingly enough on the surface. We did see the extra height and knew they had layered a second floor on, not uncommon and we had planned to remodel the bath (and kitchen) in any case.The kitchen is next with similar layering of floor in there but we can see the joists for that from the utility room and we know it's not messed up like the bathroom wall. The tile job in the kitchen is absolute shit. I hate pulling up cement backer, with any luck it will also have the too-short screws which made it a little easier.Fortunately it's a bog standard 1970s vintage house so setting up a nicer than rental spec bathroom doesn't take all that much.
>>2792675> generic whitefolkYou might as well say 'person'.
>>2792925I could, I suppose, but it's no fun.Got my subfloor in and was able to crank the floor up a little more, the 3/16" gap is gone. Floor has a little slope to it but is as flat as it will get. Waiting on a window install so I can set my tub - for which instructions say you can use construction adhesive or mortar. My first house I set an acrylic tub in mortar, my second house I put in a cast iron tub (never again a 400lb tub) so we made damn sure the floor was level first, but all that was many years past.Does using construction adhesive on an acrylic tub work or is that a high-level ghetto method? How would you assure that the tub is level if you don't have mortar to squish it onto?
Today I found fine thread drywall screws in my garage ceiling. The fun never ends.
how worried should i bee with this anodized garden hose connection being connected to brass, and why the aluminum work like an anode?
>>2792396I avoid them like the plague. Galvanic corrosion is a bitch, and the fitting WILL be (possibly permanently) seized if you leave it attached. Unless your hose bibbs are also aluminum (in which case lol), it's absolutely worth looking for brass connections specifically.Even plastic is better. Not great, but at least you won't have to get the angle grinder out to remove the hose once you need to change it. Already had to do that twice. Even the thickest anodization won't save you. It WILL scratch (a significant portion of outdoor dust is made of alumina, so the hardness of the anodized layer doesn't matter), and, once that happens, corrosion of the rest of the fitting follows fairly quickly.
>>2792396One trick to keep the connections from sticking is a couple wraps of Teflon tape to function as anti-seize. I've done it for many years. Interestingly some brass hose fitting kits now come with teftape though that's not what it's originally for.
>>2793562rectorseal t+2 liquid teflon is the butt lube of choice for my plumbing needs
>>2793566I love that for my compressor plumbing. Rectumseal works a treat.
>>2794913loctite 545 for compressed air, hydraulics, and non portable plumbing. you can finger tighten fittings and they won't leak if given some cure time
For me, it's PH.
I hate hex but hate torx less because it allows to unscrew even fucked up hex
>>2794422But… the hebrew screws allow me to have an even bigger collection!T-27 is def a Jewish conspiracy. There’s no reason T-25 or T-30 wouldn’t work for that application.
>>2794422Just be thankful there isn’t metric and imperial Torx.
EVERYONE LOOKLOOK AT MEI USE A NAMEFEED ME (You)s
>>2794847>he doesn't know about Torx PLUS>>2794775Stop buying shitty $4 hex sets and get something like Bhondus.
Is this old boomer vacuum worth spending money on?It works greatBags are expensive like $10/each and they say to replace every 3 months but theyre huge and i just leave them until theyre full like over a yearThe hose is mostly good but the switch is worn which is probably an easy fix but i consider getting all new hose and attachments because for some reason nothing here really seems to fit with each otherI mean you can make it work but its all mismatched and nothing clicks in you have to kind of hold it all togetherIdk the house was an estate sale maybe the family took all the good parts?
>>2794171The in house system in my 93 had a fucking huge ass vacuum unit twice as big and twice as heavy as a regular vacuum had to be drug around room to room. I briefly considered making the garage main unit a dedicated garage vacuum on a manual switch with normal shop vac accessories but it took such a fuck ton of space on the wall so I just ripped it out and got rid of it.
Since this is a sucky thread, which new shop vacuums suck the least while also sucking the most? I want something industrial quality. No flimsy little casters, good flexible quality hose. Not fuckall huge, but around 4-8 gallon capacity so it doesnt take up all the damn room. Good way to store accessories and extensions so they are easily accessible and not in the way... You get where I'm going with this.
>>2794703Can’t speak to the “industrial quality” but I have been pleased with this rigid. It’s a unique form factor which makes storing all the associated bullshit easy. Having the shit collect in something that can be dumped without inverting the whole thing is nice too.https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/11-gal-smart-cart-wet-dry-vac
>>2794703https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Shop-Vacuum-12-gal-Tank-Size-61HV86
>>2794703starmix
