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I have a bathroom that is about this size but it's old and has an old plastic bathtub/shower combo. I'd like to update it to look like picture. But I only have one bathroom how can I do this and still be able to bath during the process?
6 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
laticrete products are your friend
actually with youtube and home depot a monkey could do it. dont flatter yourself
I can do it myself im just not sure how I'm gonna bath for a month or two while the shower is fucked up
Move the fucking tub to another room and throw temporary pex lines to it...
No massive hurry on remod. Kitchen sink. Shitter can be removed, worked around, and put back in a long day or a few short ones. Shit at the gas station if you cant shit and shower outside

Could someone kindly redpill me on fences?

I'm hoping to buy a small piece of land and need to fence the part that faces to road off with a tallish fence to detur fly tippers.

Ideally I would also like to fit a double gate with a lock from the outside.

How do I do this cheap? Is it hard? I can usually do stuff but I'm not good at getting things straight and pretty.
9 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
looks electrified otherwise they would climb up the ceramic insulation pegs
I had one job.
You could just give an inward pull to the wires or hit them with a stone till they are loose enough. The problem is the jews, was the average guard with a rifle.
If you look at it, it's a double fence with a gap inbetween, and that gap has a concrete trench that makes it difficult to climb.
It's not supposed to prevent people from escaping, it's supposed to slow them down long enough for the guys manning the machine guns on the watch towers to realize what's going on.
pics of your preferred fence

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Is it possible to build your own printer? Ink cartridges are expensive but are actually extremely cheap to produce, they just hike up the price.

Would it be possible to build my own printer, buy the ink in bulk and just refill it as I need to? Obviously I'd need to develop some software as well.

I figure I could save a lot of money in the long run.
16 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
Stop being stupid and get a carcinogenic laserjet or continuous ink system.
I have a mono laser printer for letters etc. - you can pick one up second hand for not much at all.

For photos I have an Epson XP-960, which makes even my amateurish photos look stunning. If you are getting into photo printing you might as well forget about it being a cheap hobby - quite apart from the ink you have to consider the paper. Even generic photo paper is not cheap, and the consensus is that the best/acceptable results come from using the manufacturers inks on the manufacturers recommended paper.

BTW Epson are the most friendly to third-party/refilled cartridges.
PS unless you are printing huge amounts of photos it's still not that bad though - I think I calculated an A3 print is like £2-3 or something, depending on the intensity of the colour in the photo, and the quality I get out of my XP-960 is superior to anything you'll get even in the average small print shop - it does pretty much gallery quality prints. I've found that the frames cost more than the prints themselves.
>(1.) Print the odd letter, maybe a couple of photos once/twice a month ?
- just buy a cheap inkjet and use the cartridges you got with it
>(2) Print quite a lot of letters and shit per month ?
- buy cheap inkjet and cheap replacement cartridges
>(3) Print fuckloads of docs, letter, labels, mostly business shit ?
- get a laser
>(4) Print fuckloads of photos, whatever ?
- inkjet and look into refilling
>(5) Print even more fuckloads of photos, large print stuff, A3, etc ?
- look into getting a decent inkjet you can retrofit with a refillable system (tanks n shoit)
>(6) Print catalogs for IKEA n shit
- you in the wrong forum

cost vs convenience vs usage, BUT 'building your own printer' is shipping container city stuff, your idea is retarded, and so are you
The amount of time and effort you'd have to put into making your own printer that works as good as even the cheapest of consumer printers makes the idea not even remotely worth considering. There are many ways to make the printing costs less (which have already been mentioned) however trying to build your own printer so you can save money on ink is insane.

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Europe mosquitos, is there a way to holocaust this shit in my backyard, before they enter house, by diy chemicals, or maybe other way?
78 replies and 8 images omitted. Click here to view.
>Some hazardous shit was sprayed in Vietnam in enormous quantities as a part of an effort to kill Vietnamese people. The geniuses behind the idea most likely didn't give a rat's ass about the well-being of the unborn Vietnamese commies.
>Some entirely different shit was sprayed in the US as an effort to kill mosquitoes. The geniuses behind the idea thought that it would reduce the mosquito-borne diseases.
It's kinda comical you're trying to equate the two.
These motherfuckers keep getting into my new apartment.

I'm looking for some passive way to kill them?
Close the window after them and wait for them to die, dont keep standing water inside, or if you do, dont get bit.

Passive enough?
Heard they don't like rosemary. I lived in two places where there were many of those plants, and never had any problems.
mosquitoes are attracted to carbon dioxide. If you drink carbonated beverages, mosquitoes will chase you.

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What is this?
Found in basement
185 replies and 26 images omitted. Click here to view.
looks like a pillow fluffer
OP is still a wad.
I think they check back to enjoy how clever they are for posting half of a machine.
It looks to be some form of Discombobulator.
No... it can't be... METAL GEAR?!?!

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Please help me find these elastic laces/webbing! Luna sandals no longer offers them and I would really like to find something similar. They were soft and comfortable but durable and stretchy! Does anyone work with a similar material?
maybe try Xero shoes

>that guy who puts wd-40 in his measuring tape
30 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
My balls are covered with silicone based lube right now. All of the doorknobs in my house are slippery.

I guess my tape measure is lubed with silicone lube now.
what about numbers?
>regurgitated bullshit he heard online
wrong, it's very good if you use it in the correct scenarios. you would know that, if you ever did a day's work.
>people also seems to think it's a penetrating oil and it does that job worse then even fucking water
it does work as a penetrant, numerous tests back this up.
>It also cleans up rust and works fine as a penetrant.
>Its not a miracle worker, but its cheap and useful.

its excellent for getting tar/grease off your hands before using soap and water

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Any suggestions on what to buy?
>inb4 snap-on

I'm thinking more Amazon.
19 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
did you make too many unoriginal posts on /r9k/ ?
That's a good idea!


also, not lug nuts no

but other bolts, yea

dissimilar metals for sure, like aluminum with a steel bolt, transmission filters etc that are all corroded

if you dont know what to feel for youll pull the bolts right out before your chinkerton even thinks of clicking
I’ll admit you’re right when I manage to strip out threads by tightening a 45ft-lb bolt to 50ft-lb. I kinda doubt that will happen any time soon unless something else is already fucked.

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/EMG/Eternal Machining General

The goal of this post is to create a machining general to discuss about tools, materials, questions, resources and so on.
I don't have mych to post on the OP, It will get better with time if people post useful stuff.

>Haas automation videos.
>Titans of CNC
311 replies and 61 images omitted. Click here to view.
Guess I'll hold off for a while to see if someone who has used these appears.

As of now I'm between getting something like this if it'll do the job:

If not, I'll go with the Millright M3.
a (((turbo shill))) you say?

you're probably just too echoey yourself
Nah, tormach literally pays him for everything, product placement and shilling like crazy. A lot of guys have had problems with tormach and tormach links John Saunders maintenance videos to customers.

They don't even have videos of their own troubleshooting for their product or even a way to help customers deal with problems.

New thread
his videos are helpful, if that's the worst you can say about him well, that's not too bad.

I had a vibration issue with my tormach after running a fucked up 2 flute HSS 1/2 endmill I was using for roughing some aluminum into a hardened vice jaw then letting it run a part for 5 minutes vibrating like crazy.

I ended up tightening up some gibs and preload nuts which likely vibrated loose. Their tech support has real people to talk to and didn't cost $300 just to get a service tech to drive over.

Still using the machine, so it can't be that awful--and John Saunders makes it very clear he is sponsored by Tormach. It's okay to be salty about it being a Chinese machine, that is valid criticism, but don't make up stuff and people will respect your opinion more.

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does anyone know what type of power connector is that? It is used at the and of a lipo battery wire. Connecting to a smd socket in a ebook reader.

where can i find one to buy? how is it called?


post housing/electrical/construction gore
Where to buy those red nuts?
the classic russian led

Can someone tell me how a hoplon/aspis is made
19 replies and 5 images omitted. Click here to view.
Maybe the bronze was raped in leather for comfort
I considered that; bronze with a shaped piece of stiff leather covering it, serving the same purpose as a mail voider on articulated plate armor (protecting the joint from incidental blows). Why bother with a bronze hoop at that point though?
Yeah, it probably could have gone either way, or both kinds were in production simultaneously. Honestly, I think we can only really make functional replicas of these that are pretty close. You also can't trust the pottery drawings 100%. Again, I point to a modern situation: illustrators now will often draw combat scenes that are close, but not 100% accurate.

The closest to the correct answer we're gonna be able to get is through the research of a range of historians and archaeologists. Like tracking down the precise time and place of origin and use of examples and comparing the dates and locations of all the pottery drawings. It would be pretty fucking dry. As a guy who just finds making things the interesting thing, this is beyond the scope of my attention span, especially when these shields have been obsolete (outside of reenactments) for centuries. I'm just using this thread as an exercise in craftsman's logic. I have no intention of building a replica like the OP.

Leather is a comforting rapist

The aspis had an uncommon system of grips that some suggest limited the shield’s utility in single combat to the point that men were forced to fight in close order. The left arm was slipped through a bronze cuff, or porpax, placed either at the shield’s center or just to the right of center. The porpax either accepted a leather sleeve or was itself tapered to accept the forearm up to just below the elbow, and fit like the cuff of a modern artificial limb, holding the limb so snuggly that the shield would not rotate around the forearm. A second grip near the rim of the shield was gripped by the hand, and tension from this grip acted to hold the arm in the porpax.

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I'm 26 and have an interview for an apprentice electrician position that has paid training. Originally I wanted to get into plumbing but goddamn plumbing companies can be retarded. Any anons have any experience or insight that could serve me?
11 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
Why does no one mention carpenters in these threads, ever?
Probably because it's mostly low skilled, dangerous, underpaid work that is extremely hard on the body and frequently requires exposure to the elements. Also it's not so much a trade but more a catchall term that encompasses a huge variety of work. For example consider the difference between a form carpenter and a finish carpenter. Also though generally lacking in formal licensing it requires much more experience and diligence to be truly successful. That said, I run a residential framing crew in New England and can't imagine doing anything else and being this satisfied. Most people here are looking for an easy out in the trades, carpentry is not that.
This so much, even as a finish carpenter this is how we roll.
I’ve met very few framers who can wrap their heads around what a finish carpenter can do.
And I've met very few finish carpenters who could layout even simple gable rafters let alone hump the 24' 2x12 without blowing out their back. Though they both fall under the umbrella of carpentry, they may as well be different trades at this point.

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Hey /diy/, I just want to give all you guys who hate cleaning but love new power tools a shout out. I bought a Harbor Freight steam cleaner a few weeks back; my stuff has never been cleaner. I bought it originally to hit some of that tough shower junk in the grout, but it also blasted through the tile soap scum, the tub ring, then the floor, the sink, black crap in the refrigerator I didn't think could be cleaned, and that was just the first run.

I let it sit for a while and forgot about it, but brough it back out to try tacking the inside of my shitbox car that I've been furiously scrubbing for days trying to get the built-up grime off of. All I have to say is DAMN. The steam melted off like an eighth of an inch of sticky black goo in seconds; the steering wheel was almost completely clean in about ten minutes flat. The seats, carpets, and headliner still need a little work, but all the rest of the car is 90% done in about 2-3 hours of steaming.

Bros, get you a steam cleaner.

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Hello /diy/,

I need to cut a fuckton of paper cards just like in pic related. The dimensions are in milimeters, which means that they are ridiculously small.

I want to have something reliable and not eyeball them all the time, as I need more than a thousand of them from each size. Tried a paper cutting die company, but in my country, the price is prohibitive.

Pls help.
20 replies and 6 images omitted. Click here to view.
So why glue the beetle to the card?
The most common way is straight pinning with smaller specimens glued to a point that is then pinned. How are you expected to look at the underside if it's glued down?
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Carding is a way of securing the specimen, in a way that pointing exposes all the fragile parts. It is the most common way of preserving small coleoptera in Europe and Asia (and I think South America). It is only used in really small beetles, and the larger are pinned through their right elitra. The glue is extremely water soluble, so putting the card in water for 5 seconds free the specimen. Usualy this is not necessary, because most times, the specimen can be identified by dorsal characteristics or genitalia, that is usually dissecated and attached under the card, on the pin too.
Also, pinning sometimes can obscure certain identification marks, as in this Coccinellidae. A permanent glue on the right side of its body would (maybe?) hide one of the underside dots, and even if using a water soluble glue to release it for identification, the crooked position (in oposite to the total flat position of carding) could (and definitely would) damage at the very least an antenae.

To be honest, I think pointing is only used for coleoptera in the USA. I never heard anyone from other countries doing it.

Here is a "how to" video on carding coleoptera:



These are great, but I would prefer to have a way to make them myself whenever I wanted, and keep it padronized. Maybe in 5 years I will need more, and a supplier may not carry that shape anymore.

>Also, pinning sometimes can...

Pointing, not pinning. My bad.

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