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Well I finally got around to rebuilding the dome and donated it to a local kids arcade for them to play on. I have a few other projects I'm working on now, AMA
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ok i love the dome. ARE YOU WAYNE.

god I hate this place
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You built the local kids a Thunderdome?
>wayne is at it again
I guess it's going to kill someone the next time a storm comes around?

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Sup /diy/, Ive been forging for a few months now and Im wrapping up a set of brackets Im making for a friend. Pic related is the centerpiece, Im much further along now but I dont have any pictures. Ill post some when Im done. Anyway, my question is about blackening. I want them to have a very nice, clean finish and I dont want them to rust. Ive got some cans of rustoleum which Ive used in the past, but im hoping to learn a more authentic process. What do I need and how do I do it? Ive been recommended linseed oil and beeswax but I dont really know where to begin.
Heat them to dull red, quench in oil and they'll have a blacksmiths blue
What kind of oil should I use?
Commonly its used motor oil, but vegetable (any) works just fine and won't give off toxic fumes.
Is it for outdoor or indoor use? That will affect the longevity of rust resistance of bluing, it will get some rust in a humid or coastal environment and there's not much you can do about that with common iron and low carbon steels.
This is great for indoors https://youtu.be/P0bA_VHS9-M

How would I go about making my windows colorful look like these?
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Live near a corn or wheat field, be less educated, hold new age beliefs, and browse /x/, the rest will take care of itself.
Transparant colored paper, it will look ugly in real life though
Magic Mushrooms.

I wouldnt buy online for your needs id find someplace that sells this stuff and go visit them then ask them to hold the sheets against a window to see how much light gets through.

cut your sheets to size then just use a little adhesive around the edges.
There's colored film that you can slap on the window like car tint.

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Okay, how does one without any prior smithing knowledge would make chainmail, plate gauntlets and a helm?
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What he said, but buy your rings from an online seller like theringlord.com. Making enough rings for chainmail armor is really tedious and the rings are pretty cheap to order in bulk. The "gauge" (ex. 12 ga) of a ring is how thick the wire is (higher gauge = thinner). For armor you probably want 16 gauge or higher and 1/2 inch width. Something else to think about, the lower the gauge and width, the heavier its going to be.
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these. Also, for the helm, just make/google some templates, trace it onto some sheet metal, cut, bend, and rivet. if it's purely cosmetic, you should be fine using cheap/thin aluminum. Do the same thing for the gauntlets, but rivit them to some old leather work gloves or something
If your chainmail is for a coif under the helm, I've used this tutorial to success: https://ofmyhats.deviantart.com/art/Chainmail-Coif-Tutorial-481921754
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Bucket helm's a shit!! A SHIT!!!
armourarchive org

Tons of templates, forums with a bunch of old dudes who have done everything hundreds of times between them.

David Guyton has a [channel?] on youtube with a bunch of basics, including tool lists and such.

nadler us/armour html

More templates, including .dxf files for the CNC capable. He makes and wears his own stuff, and updates it as he goes.

Fuck chainmail, just buy some from India/Ukraine/Pakistan.

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Hi /diy/, halloween soon and i wanna dress like Michael Myers (pic related), i have a nice coat and everything excepting the fckng mask, any nice tips for a cool mask?
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black around eyes, dark contacts (full eye all black if you can get them) and never speak. Carry around a burlap bag of grey/brown mice and hand them out super slow and creepy like
He lucked out with austin powers
There is a reason you havent seen him in 20 years
>what is shrek
>>What is SEEING
>>what is shrek

Something he didnt write

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I currently have a Stab-Lok panel that needs to get out of my house. I've installed breakers before, wired in entire rooms, converted a house from gas to electric water heater, et cetera, but have never done a panel.

My question here is, is it pretty straight forward? Label each line, have the pedestal disconnected, pull the old panel, install at the very least the main, have the pedestal re-installed and finish up?
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Yeah, I know you have to label shit. It would be nice to not have to sit there for 2 hours flipping breakers off and on figuring out what they do.
even better than labeling is using a floor-plan with all the sockets and lights added and numbered. coz ''top right hand socket on kitchen's west wall'' has too many damn letters to fit that tiny space.
It was probably one of the smartest things in that post desu.
This makes me moist. Put it in one of those snap edge advertising poster holders
I'd use marker to put numbers on jackets of all cables, then packing tape to protect mark. Large labels won't survive being pulled out of the old one then put in new box.
Just make a chart of what number is what circuit, then once new panel is in place you can write proper labels on actual panel.
I was thinking more along the lines of "Front bedroom" "Back bedroom" "outside outlets" et cetera like it's currently labeled, but that's an idea too.

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I have a pretty good recipe for fake blood that uses red food coloring, molasses, and corn starch, but in the hopes of getting more real for cheap...does anyone have any experience using pig's blood to stain prop clothes? it's super cheap at my local asian market so I thought about using that to get a good dried blood color on some clothes/fake guts
Road della
Real blood turns brown and starts smelling bad. Also promotes growth of disease.
Yeah, i want the brown. It would be in thin enough layers that I'm trying to feel out if it's still unsafe. I want to just brush or lightly splatter a little bit on some clothing that would remain outdoors. Wouldn't be in any huge globs
Cool! Realism is best anyways.

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I have this Logitech Z533 speakers.

By design they go into standby every 120 minutes and the only way to wake it up is turning it off manually and turning back on. The fucking Logitech support says it supposed to be like this, which is fucking retarded (you can't watch a movie longer than 2 hours in one sitting).

Anyway, I think there probably is some sort of IC in it that counts up to 120 minutes when I turn it on and cuts power off after said time.

What I intend to do is get that fucking IC out and just short it so it never turns off by itself.

How do I start?
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In also a European. Maybe he's right and there was a bad batch or something
I have the same model and mine doesn't turn itself off
I have some z523 and they go in sleep mode even there's no input for some time, they turn back on when an input comes back.
Maybethe 533 are similar but the threshold for the input is higher, and so they go to sleep.
Try rising the volume on the source device and lower the amplification maybe?
Already tried that and on different devices and it still goes into standby.

contact Logitech and complain and they might send you a new unit free

>i contact electronics manufacturers about everything i buy using various names from my family, about 1/3 of the time i get another equal or improved model sent to me for free with no strings, logitech comes through 3/4 of the time
>yes i am a nigger

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I need some help from anyone who has worked with airbrushing before. I got an air compressor free from a family friend, and I want to set it up for airbrushing gundams/models/etc. Pic related.

What do I have to keep in mind for basic use/cleaning/care, and what paints should I buy for this specifically? I heard you have to dilute them, or something like that, so I'd prefer to ask here before I do something stupid.
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My buddy does this for a living. Prwtty sure this anon has it down but it's beyond me I can't even sign my name without fucking it up.

>pic related was yesterday. Pics don't do it justice. I screenshoted a shit fb vid. Mutherfuckers shine and a bunch of it has metal flake.
Over on /toy/ they have a general chat for painting/air brushing gundams, they would probably be the best people to answer your questions. They also have a set of fantastic resources on where to buy models and what paints are best
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I AB models of all sorts using a non-standard AB compressor. I'm originally from toy but I hang out here too. I have done a shit ton of models and other stuff for family like clocks, antique repair, maybe the tiniest bit of canvas art but I'm shit at it. I am happy to help you if you have specific questions about the hobby but I'm not going to run down shit you can find on google. Ask any questions you'd like and I can answer them for you.

As for your first questions, most seem to be adequately answered, so I'll just be brief. Basic cleaning / care : Depends on the type of paint you use. If you use acrylic, you can clean up with Windex, alcohol, and water and have a squeaky clean AB in no time. If you use enamel, you will need to use enamel thinner to cut the chemicals out of your AB. Lacquer is also good but do not start with it because it cost more and requires more setup because it's toxic. Paints : Acrylic is the softest, least chemically active paint and is the safest to use indoors. It's alcohol based so it just smells like rubbing alcohol while you AB. Enamel is a little chemically warmer, lasts longer and chips less. You should probably use a respirator when using it, and to thin it, there are easily found enamel thinner compounds you can get for cheap. Lacquer is the most chemically active and is also the hardest and most quick to dry of the three paints. Lacquer thinner is toxic and there is no safe level of breathing the fumes, so a respirator is a must. It is also difficult to find lacquers in hobby stores because it ruins the family friend hobby shop feel.

Your AB Compressor seems like it's going to be loud but at least with the tank it won't turn on very much. I use a California Air Tools compressor and it's silenced so it makes very little noise. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_myFbcjiQ1k Ultimately it doesn't affect the quality how good your compressor is so don't worry about it.

Ask any questions you have.
Hey im >>1258950

Those patterns are nice, not too hard to do but kinda cool. Drop your base ( silver gold black white or pink work best) lay down some tape for patterns and spray candy. Its just about practicing so you get muscle memory of what the lever has to do to get the desired outcome. Stencils are great too but practicing is necessary to learn how to spray right. Violet is a really good color to practice with it can go from light to dark and lets you lean how to build up layers to increase darker shades. I had a friend that would paint toilet seats which was always hilarious. Dont pay for hard stencils, print out the design cut out the designs from milk gallon sides. Anything big you want to lay down I would just cover the area in masking tape take and cut out your stencils. Dont rely too much on stencils, everywhere you read about airbrushing you will see they always make a big deal about stencils, but really you wont use them that much, more than likely what you will use more than anything or small hard stencils like french curves and texture stencils. I could go on an on. Ask specifics if you want to know more.

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so, as the proceeds from her divorce my mother got this building. it WAS a work-shop where my father kept his tools and did projects for around the house. its a sturdy building, and has survived a half dozen hurricanes without any kinds of problems. it's wired for power, but is not plumbed.


I would like to do the following to it
>insulate it
its open stud on the inside walls, it's always too damn hot (above 90 Fahrenheit). the roof is tin sheeting(no leaks on a 20+ year old building) and I'd like to put some insulating layers on that as well.

>install a ceiling
it is currently an open rafter building, we store the hurricane shutters in the rafters so that access needs to stay, but I'd like to put a ceiling in

>drywall/inner walls
the building has no inner wall face it doesn't need to be good sheetrock if I can get a decent surface

>plumb it

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your parents are probably getting a divorce because their son is a creepy fetishist
>If the lawn mower is broken
did fix it

>I`m guessing you have no money to fix your cuck shed up
do have the money

>sadist training camp business takes off
not a buisiness, its a free service to local newbies

>So first stop that and get a job.
nobody will hire me.
a mechanical engineer graduate with no experience isn't something that just, gets a job, it's either "you're overqualified sorry" or "you dont have enough experience for the [entry level] position" so I do sledghammer demolition for a guy under the table, and before that I was a fabricator for an oilwell service company.

>You're going to need at least $1k if U.S. to establish your cuck shed.

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God damn this thread has been a train wreck right off the bat. Fetishist unemployed cuckshed engineer telling too much about his life's tragedies.

Rest of us move on in life
Let her go
let who go?

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These brushes are from a vacuum cleaner motor. They're made from two pieces of different material, one visibly more porous than the other. The porous material is a lot softer than the other half.
Both brushes from this motor, and two from another motor, are like this so I don't think it's a defect. If there's a reason for this, it must be important which half of the brush comes first with respect to the motor's rotation.
Maybe the softer material comes first to help prevent the harder material from damaging the edges of the commutator contact? I don't know. I've never seen brushes like this before, and I'm not sure what orientation they were in originally. Any suggestions?
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i'm pretty sure the soft black material is graphite. i've seen brushes that were only made of graphite, and am not sure about the harder material. graphite conducts electricity VERY well and also acts a lubricant. you might try to ascertain which side of the slot it came out of has more wear, and which has more black powder.
look for the wear pattern.
Some brushes use both carbon and a softer metal (carbon acts as a lube) softer metal helps the brush last longer since pure carbon is rather brittle. Best look up the part and any breakdown. Usually brushes only go in one way.
Its like that to make the brush last longer. Most people buying vacuums dont know what a brush is and never intend to replace one. A pure graphite brush will work in its place just fine and wont damage the commutator, it just wont last as long. As for what orientation they were in i have no idea. How did you disassemle 4 brush assemblies and not think to check the orientation once?
Two of them are new-old-stock and didn't come installed in a motor.
The two from the first motor, I had both of them out before I even realized the two halves were made of different material.

I put them in with the carbon brush coming first with respect to the rotation. It probably doesn't matter much, other things will likely kill this machine before the brushes wear down significantly.
Rotating the position of the brushes is good.

Worry not of their positions, but their orientation.

Its been two years now since Im working in forestry industry ive worked in Sweden as a tree planter and done precommercia thinning and now im doing mainly the same in Scotland. My knowledge of the industry is very little since I grew up in a city with no outdoors work background.
What are the opportunities to make money in forestry? What are the best countries for it? Is anyone working in forestry here?
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Do specialty woods. Basically just drive around the country and identify trees, then offer a small sum (but big to the property owner) for exotic and interesting woods.
Then you hire a logger, put the logs on your truck, pay a sawmill, and sell the lumber to hobbyists, high end furniture makers, shipbuilders, bow makers, and o th er manufacturers. If you come with a 10 or 20% margin, you can easily undercut the other players in the exotic wood business.
In the upper Midwest we get a lot of storm damage and also have a lot of forests. The arborists that run 24hr tree-clearing services do very well, but it's highly competitive and you have to be reliable or you'll never get any business (a lot of word of mouth).

One thing that people have specialized in lately is offering hippie-style "total tree care" services where they basically try to talk you out of cutting down the tree instead of actually cutting it down for you. Pair that up with an appropriate amount of rhetoric and you can separate the right kind of people from twice as much money while doing half as much work. It's pretty remarkable.
If you are working outside of government there are plenty of jobs. The issue is it is feast or famine. You can go a year working 7 days a week and then go a year where you are lucky to put in 20 hours in a week.
You mean tree care beyond just tree removal? Pruning, thinning, topping and the like? I'm an arborist in the NE, business is good.

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>meanwhile on 2117 /diy/

Hey guys I saw someone post on r/SpaceBungalows about his DIY inter-system container habitat. I know of a 'roid where three of them are just sitting there, looks like they've been abandoned since a mining corp went out of business a few years ago.

Problem is I've got only a junker D-Class Ichiboroku from 2076, and am too poor to get another ship right now. My dad's got three sizable asteroids he got scammed into thinking there was gold and nickel on, and I figured I could set up a comfy little home on one of them, not too far from Charleston station.

I was wondering if any of you anons could help me out with some info.
>Are there trackers in these fuckers, and can I disable them or permanently mask their beacons?
>How would you go about hauling them from one asteroid to another about 0.4 AU apart?
>How do I make them hold positive pressure? I'm looking at one of them as an airlock, and then join the other two together into a larger living space.
>I heard there was a requirement for radiation shielding on these since 2085; anyone know how I can check when these were made?

I'm trying to keep it on a low budget, but I figure the bulk of the cost should be the containers themselves.
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hey guys what's your favorite method of sourcing space junk out of orbit and welding it back up to sell to those idiots from Zebulon-5?

check out pic related, I got this old lunar probe on clearance and added a bunch of broken solar panels to it, all the micro-meteorite strikes add 'character', I bet I'm gonna get a dozen fucking satoshis for this, just gotta stage the picture with a nano-tool and some hipster space boots.

I'm also retrofitting this 2060s era communications satellite with a shinwei grade AI cluster and a titanium blast shield, perfect livingpod centerpiece, but I'm gonna bump my thread from the bottom twenty times before posting any updates because I'm a lazy shit and then just show you some mining rig work that I'm setting up to pay bills
This thread made me reinstall Eve.
Time for Space Truckin'.
Just watch out for Drifters.
>playing retro games

I don't get why people play this century old shit. Most people have neural jacks installed and a halfway decent machine is only a couple of hundred satoshi. I used to live next to a guy who spent all his time emulating this ancient game called world of warcraft. He set up a distributed ai for the other players and would play his way through the game. once finished he'd memory wipe and re-do the whole thing again. Said it never got old. Old guy ended up dying after his nutrition iv malfunctioned and he got an embolism.
Best way to go tbqh

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just add propane and lighter wand
There appears to be something wrong with your beans, anon.
This has been an enthralling series.

I think it's mulatto sugar.

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Need ideas for a exoskeleton for my grandma's hand. She's can barely use his hands for holding things and I want to help her. 21 spai-n
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jesus I just came from lurking on /b/ and its like I never fucking left.

op I would suggest looking into the anatomy of a human hand and creating a cad model of something that would go over it and perhaps attach to some kind of harnesses on the persons back. build it for yourself first to test out the concept and then fit it for your grandmother.
I remember seeing a commercial for some children's hospital that gave a little girl "wings" to do just as you desire. They were rubber bands and wooden toy parts like Lincoln logs and tong depressors velcrowed to her arms to allow her lifeless limbs to function.
Hahahah this sounds hilarious
This is a novel way to increase grip strength. Make a glove with strain sensors and use that as a controller for some external grippers/


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