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Do you love to work with your hands? Do you love popping Xanax and stealing content? Have I got a stream for you.


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I picked up these 25w speakers from the 80s. I want to add a 3w micro amplifier and a 5w Bluetooth speaker, and make it portable. Does the power source have to be 25w only, or will it have to be 33w to power everything. Explain it to me like I'm 5 and an autist
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>>1410659 yeah they're unpowered. So far I've spliced an aux cord with the wires that run to the speakers. It makes decent sound when I use my phone, enough to fill a room at an easy listening level.
If it's that direct, then I think my question has been answered. 3w adjustable amp might be sufficient. I saw a video which demonstrated a 2w microamp in a similar project such as mine, it word surprisingly well. You could hear it from 30 meters away, which is more than enough for what I'll be using it for.
yep. I built a 6W tube amp from online schematics and that was plenty loud for home music listening.
Thanks Mr. Niggers. If I could afford tubes, I'd be jamming that shit in there. I love tubes
Long story kinda long. I went from my parents record player speakers to competitions after the birth of kicker.

Materials back then are old and rotton and old tech. Grab the magnets or find a collector.

As for wtf ever bs you are on about pretty basic stups are as follows.

Get a shit radio and antenna at walmart. Get a pair of shit speakers. Want more bass?

Take advantage of google rather than ow 5k in shit gear.

Git gud bbn is easy af. I got MECP certified bros if u get any rwal questions.

Number 1 tip i have. Be nice and nod to all advice. BIT UNLESS A TROPHY WINNING SOUND DRAG OR SPL DRAG BRO TALKS RO U 100% ignore their shit advice and get full coverage.

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I want to build an off-grid cabin in the woods by myself. Looking to buy land to put it on. I was wondering what's the design I can throw up the least amount of time. Only electricity I'd need would be for a sink, fridge, freezer, and some lights.

Must be able to withstand Alberta winters.
>"least amount of time"
>A canvas tent with a wood stove.
>While living in your tent on your land, dwell on how much space you desire, and the features of your cabin.
>Also if you like big windows, you can use the double pained glass from some back doors...
Do piers instead of a concrete pad
Frame a plain box with four walls and a truss roof. Plywood sheating. Wrap in tyvek or building paper.
Use metal roof panels for the roof and the siding.
Spray foam insulation (probably cheaper to hire a pro to do this). Shit's air tight, seals all gaps, and if applied thick enough insulates very well.
For the floor use solid panels of styrofoam, seal the gaps, and put plywood or OSB on top.
That ought to survive winter
This but as a former window salesman.

>windows are worse than drafts.
>go into a 70 degree house
>snow outside
>palm the glass.

Tripple pain low E coating Applebee windows. Youtube that shit. Faggots want $1,000 a window. Play hardball and shoot for $500.

Rule of thumb anything in the bathroom you can slip and put your arm through is an extra $500 tempered glass. Anything slightly larger than a 3x5 is better off becomming a 3x5.

I.e. you have a 6x6 window in the living room.

2 3x5 is about 20% of replaceme t for giant window.

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Tips but maybe shit advise. Do your homework. Osb vs. Plywood for the roof. Study it.

At the very least shit balls double pane windows and if not a giant cuck fi d a cheap easy way to toss insulation panels pver them at NJ ight or unoccupied.

My local lowes rents the blow insulation machine.

Have a bro razor knife the sides and then middle to connect. Poofs out the bag. Throw in machine. You gwt in attic ans spray snowstorm until u cannot see trusses.

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and because everything has an agenda heres what I want to talk about.
I am thinking go buying one of these fancy compound saws. I like the regular miter saw I inherited(an old Delta), but the motor died.

I'm looking around at all the fancy new stuff out there and I figure you guys would have some experience about these things. what brand name, would you recommend if the biggest thing I expect to ever cut is a 4x4 but usually just 1 or 2 by 8s for regular projects. by 10s at irregular intervals.
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I have the same one, seems to be pretty effective

What is the purpose of cutting snow?
Testing avalanche probability.
No. Op is correc

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for your consideration: a blacksmitting thread

namely firepits: i'm thinking of building one from clay alone, easiest to mould into shape and add/substract features to and from, installing a rotating grill on the bottom etc, and doing it proper, none of that drum brake shit

advices, experiences, etc
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Basically the way we all start, youll find whatever is best for you through practice...
Ideally you would use fire bricks, normal bricks and cement bricks will crack and crumble with repeated firings but can be used in a termporary rough and ready setup.

Best way is just to experiment and find what works through experience, if you have at hand some bricks, a length of metalic pipe, a hair dryer and about 5Kg of carcoal then you have everything you need to make your first forge which can heat metal to a workable temperature.

Once this is done you will see how the setup can be improved upon.
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Could I have some critique on my first knife? Just finished it a couple hours ago and my friends just say "COOL!" when I ask them about it.

They don't fucking know.
>They don't fucking know.
They really don't, normies dont know the first thing about metalworking
As far as your knife goes, dont expect a railroad spike to be a good knife the metal is of a questionable mixture at best and it's very rare for one to be of any worth
I'm just as new as you when it comes to knives so I can't really comment on the technical ability, but maybe try grinding that fold above blade down a bit other than that it looks good
It looks too thick for the sort of cutting a knife typically does.

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>Ctrl+F Leather

This is now a general leather working thread

Anyone out there doing leather work? I recently started getting into the hobby.
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Could make leather patches, even stamp or tool them too to give them more detail.
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This week's effort, a baldric for larp.
And a bonus, some new charms.
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Leather noob here with an an automotive problem.

>old leather vehicle door card.jpeg
>leather trim receding and shrinking from window.
>its now smol, hard and crusty

I can believe this crusty leather salvageable. Is is possible to cut and sew in some new leather?

Your stitching looks good. Something I don't see often.

why does anyone care about this shitty faggot brand? i busted my bosses new linesmans today trying to cut a screw. my channel lock linesmans did the trick in a second.

overrated shit for idiots who want to pay double for a brandname
Linesmans are for soft metals, copper wire and such, you know? Use and take care of your tools properly and they will last. Nothing wrong with klien, they do the job and they are cheap enough that you won't start thinking about tearing up drywall of you loose a pair down a wall.
Why do you care so much what other people use for tools or how much they spent. As long as they get the job done and done as safely as possible. You shouldn't.
Bunch of suburban rural retards who always base their buying decisions on brand name and not the items themselves
Their 10 in 1 now 11 in one are my go to general screwdriver. I have never a problem with any of Apex (Cooper) tools brands
>check out klein lineman's at home depot
>rusty looking right in the packaging
>like $70 CAD

>pic up some channelock lineman's at canadian tire on sale for $18
>they seem bretty gud so far
no rugrats

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I'm trying to reproduce the penis sculpture of the movie a clockwork orange.

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Best delivery 2018!
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The absolute madman!
just make more
Are these actual dildos or just ""art""?

I'm considering buying a few acres of land and wondering what the cheapest options are for housing. There are so many kinds from modular to prefab cabins to DIY tiny homes. What would you do?
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>sewing machine
>galvanized conduit
>galvanized Ts
>galvanized 45s
>glavanized. ...wtf ever the top peaks wold be with a 90, 2 45 holes
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>across the pond

nobody has said that in 100 years
Genuinely curious, what would you consider 'useful work'? I hear this phrase trotted out a lot, but most paying work I've encountered is just economic activity for its own sake.

I design fiber optic layouts and even though I'm not a virtuoso coder I could probably automate my own job in about a year. I think the last 'genuinely useful' work I had was picking apples ten years ago.

TL;DR: What fringe idea did you give up on to do what mainstream thing and why should I respect you for it?
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How about one of these?
Somewhat related to this thread. I am planning on buying a couple of acres for cheap. It is completely undeveloped, forested land.

Where do I even begin paperwork wise? I’m only spending 3k so I’d rather not have to spend half that on attorneys and such.

Basically how do I buy land from a private seller for cash by myself.

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Hey /diy/,

I'm trying to cast some pieces using lost PLA and plaster. Does anyone know of a recipe that cracks less easily on heat than pure plaster? How long should I wait for it to dry on it's own before burning PLA out?

The mold for the piece in the pic was made this morning, used a vacuum pump to remove bubbles, removed PLA in the oven. It would be salvageable with some machining but it's a test with lead, will make actual pieces of Zamak 5.
Maybe a thin coat of 2 part high temp silicone between the piece and the plaster?

What temps are we after here?

Cast-o-lite will hold any temps most of us can throw at it

Zamak and Al, so around 700º, I have a red heat-resistant silicon rubber but it burned with Zamak (around 400º).

What is Cast-o-lite's composition? I'm not in Canada/US

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Lets say I accidently made a crack (close to 1 foot long) on the roof of a semi trailer with a forklift.
What would be the easiest way to repair this? If I were to use a patch would it be aluminum, steel, etc?
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If I tell them that it's damaged, they'll be forced to send it back and they'll be without a storage trailer for a while
However if I take it upon my self to fix it, it will get resolved without anyone knowing
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based phil swift
Seal it up with pallets
Actually laughed out loud

I am currently remodeling my bathroom because my dog peeled up the vinyl and chewed up the subfloor. My bathroom is pretty small, about 5x5 not including the shower stall, and before it had a single piece of vinyl covering the whole floor.

This time I think I will try using peel and stick vinyl tiles. I am wondering if a sealer is used between the tiles to prevent water from leaking between the seams. In a video I watched the installed just peeled the tiles, butted them against each other, and stuck them to the floor. What prevents water from sapping between the tiles?
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With the cement board underlayment down and mortared in and dry, snap chalk lines where you want the tile field to go. Start there, stay on the lines, and fill in the full-size center area tiles.

Attention to detail here is critical, since you only get one shot to do this right.

Oh, and make sure everything's level before this point. If there's low spots on the subfloor, raise that area up with mortar before you lay the cement board.
You can use the self-leveling epoxy goop, but that stuff is a pretty big pain in the ass to deal with in an area that's already built.
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Also make sure the cement board surface is level before you start laying tile, same deal, raise up low spots with a layer of mortar before you stick tiles down.

With the main tile area down, measure/cut the edge pieces. Thicker floor tiles do better with a wet saw, thinner wall tiles are easier to cut on a diamond-wheel score-and-snap cutter.
Worth having both; there were a few tiles under door jambs I needed both tools to do. The diamond wheel cutters are inexpensive.

Measure/cut/stick down all the perimeter tiles. Use a jamb saw to cut back door jambs/trim/etc to clear the tile, if necessary (again, it's a cheap tool). Once all that's down, give the mortar some time to dry (think I let my kitchen go 2-3 days before grouting) then deal with grout.

Grout is my least favorite part of tile work.
For smaller tiles, mixing a big batch of grout and working it in with a float is easier. Bigger tiles (13x13's in my kitchen, and the ones in my tub surround) I found it was easier to squirt in from a plastic baggie with a corner cut off. Much less mess that way, still a shitty job. Wet sponge, attention to detail/make sure it's right before it sets up.

Let the grout sit for a few days to dry, then apply a few coats of sealant. Both kitchen and shower took 2-3 applications before it stopped sucking the stuff in.

Floor/surround will need to be cleaned periodically and re-sealed, typically every 2-5 years depending on use (shower surround every 2 years, kitchen/entry every 3-5).

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Here is my finished half bath. I used to luxury vinyl slabs. Because there is going to be almost no water.
I fucked up in a couple spits because I’ve never done anything like it before. Now my gfs mom wants me to do her bathroom and I said no way. I’ll install whatever and paint but not doing flooring on a place she’s going to eventually leave or get kicked out of. Long story dont ask.
Listen to this guy. I just tiled 60sq feet of bathroom downstairs, and 120sq feet of my kitchen upstairs. Grab 3×5 cement backer from Lowe's/home Depot, it's like 11 bucks a sheet. It's really inexpensive to tile and they will last forever pretty much if you do it right
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Very similar to what I did in my powder room a few years ago. I laid down all the tiles as a dry run to make sure I didn't have duplicate patterns too close.

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hey guys, so i recently passed my g2 test (gas technician Ontario), and im having a hard time figuring out my next step
I'm currently in the military but hate my life and want out but i have a year left on my contract. what would the next logical step?
i was thinking ac, electrical or plumbing but was wondering if there is a way to get another qual without getting signed up (I'll be crucified if i join a union which makes finding an apprenticeship difficult)
any ideas on trades that don't require an apprenticeship?
3 replies omitted. Click here to view.
goes against military law
also wouldn't be able to follow any union mandated actions
what trade are you currently? have you thought about an OT? theres plenty of trades in the military that are have civilian equivalencies, RCEME have some good trades
OP listen to this guy >>1410529. OT to a RCEME trade (vehicle tech (best tech), weapons tech, materials tech (basically a machinist), or Electronics and Optronics tech (they do nothing and make spec pay)). You dont need to finish your contract to change trades. I can almost guarantee if you OT to veh tech you will get it. All RCEME trades have a civilian counterpart and I know that vehicle techs can challenge the red seal for heavy equip. mech, bus and coach, or cars
>bus and coach
meant to say truck and coach
But that's not true. Once youre out of the forces youre out. You have all your rights and freedoms back and can have any job a civilian can do. Once you leave you no longer are subject to the NDA

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tread N01 >>1354290
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Good Evening,

I am a music playing guy and I am quite fond of effect pedals and other accessories pertaining to my interest. I want learn how to make circuits and modify existing ones but I don't know where to start.
I looked into taking classes but it seems I'd have to do an entire engineering course to be able to learn that stuff. Does anyone know of any reading materials that may be able to help me with my goals?
9 replies omitted. Click here to view.
This. Building equipment is if you want to nerd out, but it won't make you a better guitarist.

If you're going to go down this road, take it from many directions at once. This is the way colleges normally design their curriculum. For example I read basic electronics texts, amplifier design texts, and practiced building and repairing equipment (basically a lab). When you get stuck in any of the three, you can approach the other two and will likely unravel your former issue.
Electrical engineer here. You should buy a 10$ multimeter, an 15€ soldering iron kit, a 9V battery and components needed to make a simple fuzz pedal. Try "15$ fuzz pedal" or something on ebay and play with resistor or capacitor value to listen diffrences.

Also if you have a smartphone (preferably an old one) you should try "signal generator" apps on f-droid to generate tone.
> Try "15$ fuzz pedal" or something on ebay
On YT, ma bad
tagboardeffects.com if you just want to build something without thinking about it. the electronics general on here >>diy/ohm/ has some good resources for getting started in electronics in the OP.
Thank you all for the suggestions, really did me a solid and you should all feel good.

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