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It is below freezing and I want to wash the exterior side of my house windows. I am thinking about using windshield washer fluid (de-icer version) with a squegee, Will this works or are there any better suggestions.

Pic not related
If you're going to go out of your way to treat your windows, why not go all the way and use wax on the outside and rain-x on the inside?

add denatured alchol to your soapy water, also good to clean a window stripeless,
old trick from my mom.
Yup. That washer fluid is just water and some sort of alchahol

this, never get tricked by the washer fluid jew and fill your washer bottle up with water a drop of soap and a bit of alcohol.
i always bash my head against the wall whenever people buy the most expensive washer fluid they can find

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I live in Japan. There is a very old style of bicycle that you sometimes see in front of boutique clothing shops, cafes, and other retro sorts of things. They were made in the 1950s and have an air of long lost quality about them. I've always wanted one because I like classic vehicles, but they are quite rare, and fairly expensive.

The other day however, I happened upon one! It was in a trash pile outside of a long abandoned house that was just now getting cleaned out. The people cleaning sold it to me for the Japanese equivalent of about 10 bucks. I'm going to restore it and ride it to work every day. Thought you all might be interested.
64 replies and 18 images omitted. Click here to view.
I am the anon who wanted to ask some more general questions.

First, sorry to hear that your other bike got sotlen, was it left unattended without any lock or other protection?
It kinda ties into my question, I was thinking about doing some super low budget traveling, the idea is to go to japan, buy a bike and just ride wherever I want to go, be it city or eventualy the countryside. Hobo the nights out wherever I end up that day.
How viable is something like this? Will I just get my bike stolen? Will I get beat up for trying to do this? How likely is it that a complete stranger would let me stay one night at their place before continuing the journey so that I wouldnt have to hobo it out every night?
How much should I expect to spend on decent food every day? Also, are there ways to get some side income while traveling like this? Heck, I wouldnt mind helping people out for shelter and food.

Would be curious to hear what you think about this (oh I should mention I dont know the language) and good luck with the restoration! Keep us updated :)
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Which reminds me why I will never say "you can't buy that from a vending machine."
Pic related.
how do you steal an umbrella anyway? they are never left unattended,people always have them on hand
Lots of folks leave them just inside (or outside) a store so they don't drag water in. Stops raining and folks forget them on the subway/metro. I lost one on a bus. Just forgot to take it with me and... vrooooom.. Ah Crap.
Hence pic. It was either an umbrella or a couple cans of coffee. I went with the coffee.
OP here. Haven't given up yet, still working on getting the thing out of the other thing. I know I'm taking a long ass time, but I'm being careful. Have managed to avoid damaging any of the frame despite my hours of grinding and drilling. Just got a cutoff wheel for my drill, and things are going much faster now. Grinding down to make the flats bigger, then I'm going to try vice grips because the adjustable and channellock wrenches just can't get a good purchase.

Found that part for the guy with a Viper. He's a pro painter so I'll probably work with him to get this thing painted when it's finally apart.

I've been looking for Oxalic acid, but I'm having trouble finding it. No wood bleach either.

I'll answer the other questions later, I have to go to work.

I am pretty sure that there is a bat hibernating in my attic (inb4 where there is one bat there are more). Since bat-bro eats mosquitos for me, I do not really want to kill him, and that would be illegal. But I would like to fuck with his echolocation by transmitting sound waves.

Bats echolocate by “clicking” at 20 to 200 kHz.
>what frequency sound would I need to transmit to simulate a reflected echolocation wave?
>how do I produce this sound?

I will post videos in the spring when he wakes up.
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Nats and armadillos. Can be natural born carriers of rabies their entire life.

That bat is just gonna freak out and crash or bite you. Leave him alone
>be asleep
>bat fight.

Fuck no im silicone my attic door shit tonight
>mfw op wants to troll bat

Get the bb gun. Fuckers gotta go
>consumer speakers aren't built to reproduce anything above 20khz
This is a problem, but piezo elements might work. He will need to reproduce a sound very close to that the bat makes in the first place, which requires recording one. A whistle or simple sine wave won't cut it.

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Now i know what you are going to say
"OP is a faggot" but hold up for just this once alright.
I want to take a bath today, and i want it to be the most soothing relaxing and overall just a really good bath, does anybody know/what to make/put into bath water to help my skin and overall raise my COMFY levels?
8 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
I like epsom salts and some orange essential oil.
I think an OP flavored breakfast would have too strong of a fruity flavor.
I have a tip for running a bath: Run it as hot as possible, then let it cool (as opposed to running it at the temperature you want). This will warm up the bath and bathroom as the water cools, which means once your water is the right temperature for you to get in, it will stay warm much longer. Warm water in a cold bath will go cold much quicker. A hot bath takes about 20-30 mins to cool to the right temperature.
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Take a bath in the dark or with low (candle) light. Run it hot with whatever salts/bubble bath stuff you like. If you are using candles, use scented ones that complement the smell of the bath, or briefly light some incense or whatever nice-smelling shit you prefer to use.
Play some comfy music or listen to ASMR if that's more your deal (be careful to make sure your headphones don't get into the water.) If you want to wash yourself during this bath, use bar soap and a nice washcloth to really get that pic related feeling.
Also have a beer or a glass of wine to help you relax. Bonus points if it's well-chilled, for a pleasant temperature experience.

Go be a fag, OP. Have fun.
Epsom salts. A good 1KG should do it.

Alright I'll so I'd like to make an L shaped desk like this, curve included.

Saying I have access to all the tools required, what do I need to make this, aside from the obvious.

Obviously I need wood in the dimensions of choice, and primer and finish.

But what am I using to attach legs? And I'd also like a nook running along the back of the desk, underneath the table, to hold wires. Do I use the same fasteners that would be required to attach legs?

Some drawers would also be nice, but that's a whole different beast and somewhat more complicated than just slapping on some legs.

Obviously I'm a complete carpentry Rookie but I have many friends who have the tools and space to let me use. And I'd rather not bother them with elementary questions.
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Be sure to have some pipe cross members or else the desk will probably be wobbly
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Kek. Good way to look at it.

Been wanting to find a junk pontoon amd fix up.

Mfw i have to do 3 now...
>try to google worlds longest nail for shitpost
>pic related
depends on if there will be any other support structure or if that is it....

I can just see some land whale hopping up and putting all their lard right in the middle of the end and the top buckling....at least use some dowels; a hole jig is far cheaper than a biscuit jointer

Pontoon is easy actually.. just slap a timberframe on.
Or you could go the extreme route and hollowing it out, putting a steel cabin on and insulate it with spray foam.
I would always go that route myself since it will give you better stability.

I lived on a boat for a few years however and shit just never ends.
Everything has to be custom made.
You have to plan everything right from the beginning and don't skimp on anything.
Some things are just simply impossible to install afterwards.
Depending on your hull you might be fucked or less fucked.
I had a v bottom yacht, no piece of timber would ever be the same dimension.
Get an electrical hand planer if you don't like committing suicide.

also Don't ever skimp on owatrol.

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.

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Its going into summer here in Australia. I would very much like to keep my windows open and also be able to be naked in my own room at the same time. Only issue is I have a bunch of houses behind mine with some of them having children living there.

I don't personally care if some random adult saw me naked but I ain't no sicko I don't want kids to. Nor do I want people to think I would.

I am thinking of setting up some kind of privacy screen about 1-2 meters back from my window in such a way it blocks the view from those homes. What would be the best way to go about this?
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>It's been pushing high 30's
poor baby
>what the fuck is wrong with you that that is the first place your mind goes?
He cares what other people think about him, and doesn't want to be labeled a pervert.
Besides, given the title "How to have good ventilation+privacy?", I assume he's actually smoking weed, and doesn't want us to know.
I have a curtain but its a thick one because I also like to sleep well at night and cant with the bright lights coming through. I also want to maintain as much privacy as I can but still with 100% airflow. So a curtain is naturally going to compromise on one or both of those.

Its really not that much effort I think to drive some wood into the ground outside my window and just put up some outdoor mesh/screen (the dark green type) is it? That way I can set it back about 1-2 m have full privacy and full airflow without messing with my current blackout curtains.

Atm it is going high 30s temperature wise that isn't too bad but if I am running a PC and my windows closed then high 30s becomes high 40s in my room and high 40s when its peak summer is like actually unbearable if I don't open my windows while my PC is running.

I wish I was smoking weed I don't even have a dealer. Anyway I don't really care what people think of me per se, I am very comfortable with my body but it definitely would feel wrong potentially exposing myself to children. And if it did happen or someone thought I was a pervert I wouldn't want to deal with any fallout.
Paint clothing on your naked body, no one will ever know.

Disclaimer: you may die of lead poisoning.

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>Tired and installing cabinets
>Feel an incredible inner misery
>Think about committing suicide to never have to do it ever again
>Move so slow and accomplish so little
>Feel so tired and sluggish, but force my body to keep moving
>It barely works

How do I get past this mental blockage to move fast even when I don't feel like it?
10 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
>Microdosing LSD

i actually wanted to try Salvia divinorum, but it's not legal here anymore, and the people at the Botanical Gardens Plant Sale look at you funny when you ask about it.
>be 14
>get job on drilling rig
>kill little body all summer
>every summer
>haul hay, do construction, factory shit.
>manual labor for 20 years
>go to trade school anon. At least get paid while you wageslave
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>mfw i also am crippled. Good luck anon. Dont let it get u down.

Mutherfucker must never bucked a hay bale...
What? Why?

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Dunno if this is the board, but I need legit advice on cleaning. These are the made in England 1460s and they're real leather, so I know I need conditioner of some sort. Any advice?
>Reddit space
Is it safe to leave them until tommorow? It's 6 on Sunday here so I can't really do anything about this unless I go break into a shoe repair store for conditioner
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Nah this is the first time I've been on /DIY/ tbf m8, but I have edgy commie shitposted on fa n shit.
Lol yeah that's what I meant
Recognised you from the corner that you always take pics of your boots in

Just run them under water, then use saddle soap to clean and some sort of moisturiser (mink oil works well) to replenish and then just give them a good polish with your preffered polish (I'd recommend cherry however kiwi gives a longer lasting polish)
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docs not a shit for looking good, I'll give you that.

I had a bitchin pair that I got senior year of high school and wore them damn constantly for years until I wore the tread off my first year living in boston and walking everywhere.

Got a new pair like a year later; in the first two weeks both of the inside heel fabric ripped off when I put my foot in, revealing 1)the fabric to paper thin, and 2) the molding of the heel just being a piece of basic card stock.

After a year and a half or something the sole of the right boot cracked from side to side, no longer being waterproof. I was in a Doc's store this year, they said "That'll happen, just buy another pair." Not for $150 goddamn. That's why I'm so salty.
Mind you, these were not the MiE ones.

Doc's are /fa/ as fuck if you've got a bigger upper body like me, very simple design and profile, but their build really seems to be shit nowadays. I took them to a shoe dude and he said the soles were cheap plastic and couldn't resole them.

Damn shame, would love to rock these to the knee.
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Yeah, I'd definitely give the MiE a recommend, they've been great so far, but I've got the leather cut on them being a silly cunt and I agree on the effay comment, they look great imo. I've got kind of short legs tho, and I'm like 5'9-5'10 or some shit I haven't measured, and I wear a size 10 UK but they still look p good. Pic is right after giving them the PJ treatment. Very fucking shiny.
To resole boots they gotta have that stitching around the bottom.

Redwing will resole their own boots even if they have weird soles like $75 each though.

Redwings also warranties their upper stitching.

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What is something you can buy under $50 that would improve your life dramatically?

>Protip: Buy a curved shower curtain rod. They look nice and you'll have more room in the shower for the rest of your life
51 replies and 7 images omitted. Click here to view.
At that price of course it is, it sold out within a day or 2

Keep an eye on gun.deals and you'll find similarly cheap guns, and if you know what brands are junk you can get a decent one
>25 .223 ARs
for what purpose
>>dashboard cop detector

Can you explain more on this? I have a radar detector but have found it is becoming less effective as more cops are switching to LIDAR. Really curious about the dashboard cop detector
+1 for knife sharpener. It's a cheap investment and you'd be surprised what a difference it makes when cooking
Also usually includes a small level for hanging pictures and an adjustable spanner/crescent wrench

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Just moved into a new apartment, and there's no shut off valve on the toilet.

How am I supposed to shut off the water so I can install my bidet? I have a delicate asshole.
28 replies and 8 images omitted. Click here to view.
Vice grips.
What op refers to is called a buttgun. In my local language it translates to pussyphone.
I also have a delicate asshole. I'm the early 00 I went to Thailand and worked there as a scuba instructor. I learned the way of the clean asshole and there is no turning back. Wiping makes my ass burn, I just have to wash it these days.
For what its worth the toilet seat squirter is no more of a bidet than a garden hose is. There is much more to a bidet than squirting water up into your anus. Ask the Muslims, I believe they scrape with a finger then wash it in the bidet, impossible with just a squirter. These fulfil perhaps one of many functions of a true bidet.
if op couldn't figure this one out he probably shouldn't attempt to install a toilet by himself
I think with bidets you wipe normally, rinse and then give it one last wipe to dry.

I'm also a baby wipe kinda guy. They get my b-hole extra clean.

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Can we get a jewtubers thread going? Poast your favorite DIYers from satan's video hosting site

>Homestead DIY, Furniture, Self-sustainability
>Master woodworker from England, traditional methods, old old old knowledge
>Retroweld. Industrial style furniture and cool projects
>"Hi, my name ith Mike Montgomery, and today I'm gonna thow you how to make a mid-thentury modern _____, on Modern Buildth"
>DIY Pete, makes all kinds of stuff. Lots of concrete-formed furniture with neat twists
>The nigga just makes rings in a machine shop all fuckin day bruh
>American style woodworking - no hand tools allowed

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30 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.

Because jewtubes current suggestion system is fubar.
I used to always get good suggestions back in the day.
That's when I got to know if him.
He honestly is the best guy to learn from if you want to know something.. He teaches without boring anyone to death.

Be sure to recommend him to friends, he can do with extra subscribers.
He doesn't teach shit, maybe some small tricks but that's all. He hardly knows what he's talking about, he leaves things unfinished, says he will do something and then he doesn't, for example, he didn't show how the stainless scored by a piece of steel and carbon rusted. He's pretty fun and I like to watch him, but I wouldn't tell his videos have any educational value

He teaches by means of destruction, which is the way some of us learnt the most.
My dad have me old electrical shit when I was old enough to use a screwdriver.
I tore shit apart and got to learn what it looks like and how it worked.

Some of us didn't have that learning curve.
My wife for instance is interested in stuff like that but she asked about how a dual water heater and cooler worked.
Now I explained her and she understood it pretty good.
If I would be giving her a video from an anal autistic sperg she would've never gotten it.

So what if you don't have anyone to teach you.. well you got uncle ave.
He years it apart and non technical people can learn some basics.

For people like you and me it's just fun but it can be educational in a fun way for people who don't know shit about technical stuff.
here's my boy uncle doug
he does a lot of work on guitar amps. He has videos of him building an amp from scratch
But very often he learns as he tears something, if he doesn't understand something he tries to explain it the best he can, but he sometimes fails, but people believe that and think he's 100% right, even if he's not

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I normally dont hang out on /DIY so dont rage ;)
im working on an electronics project and im stuck on the scematic part. Im using a part called "2PJ-320" its a 4 pole female headphone jack. But i cant seem to find any pinout diagram, the datasheet just shown the pin layout and placement but not if its the (Ring,Tip,Sleeve or MIC) I would appreciate any help from you guys!

Datasheet: http://p.globalsources.com/IMAGES/PDT/SPEC/432/K1007154432.pdf
Well 5 is ground. The other 3 terminals are application dependant
I figured as much, that 5 would be common.
For standard mobile applications?
Depends on what standard the vendor used.
CTIA is the telephone standard so that's usually the case.
Read: http://blog.mklec.com/trrs-and-trs-plugs-and-sockets-explained/
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5=sleeve 4=tip 3=ring1 2=ring2
plugs either LRGM or LRMG

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What are some good ways to keep your room clean and good. Also interested on replacing stuff for example if there are more functional tables, chairs, wardrobes etc and if there are optimal placements. I know that this is board is not really about stuff like that but it is the closest thing to where I can post and get good advices that you usually can't find with a simple google search.
14 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
I kinda have an issue with this too. I'll get to a point where there's just a path from the door, to the computer, to the bed. It's never anything like food, or anything that can grow mold or get nasty. It's usually stuff like laundry baskets, books, boxes filled with other stuff. Usually, I just kinda wake up and decide to clean. I throw on a lofi hiphop stream and get to it. takes me about 3 hours to clean up good (pick up, vacuum, dust). the last time I cleaned, I really got into it. dusted literally everything, reorganized my closet, and steam cleaned my carpet. Needless to say, it's much better now. I'm gonna be building a bookshelf here soon, as well as a tea chest type stand for a Keurig I got awhile ago.
If you have a dirty, hoarded room like the OP pic, you may need to take one approach for the initial cleanup, then a different approach to maintain. But here's a basic one that works for most situations:

Cleanup: stages. Stage one, black bin bags for rubbish, followed by charity. Take the bags out of the room. Stage two, identify things that need to be outside the room and take them to where they should be: worn clothes to laundry, dishes to kitchen etc. Stage three: Pick up each thing that remains in turn. Does it have a storage location in the room? If so, put it there. If not, create one (box, shelf) and put it there. Still no? Remove the item from the room. You will be left with a room that has everything put away. Step four, clean/dust/sweep surfaces.

This process is simple and fast once the first time round is done. You can do it incrementally or in short cycles, whatever suits.

Note that at no point does it make things worse, which is often a problem with some approaches.
Read a book by marie kondo.
You can agree or disagree with it but I'd suggest you to try to read it first.
if you don't use something for 3 months just throw it away (yes this includes your dick)
I used to be a hoarder but not anymore, the approach I followed is getting rid of things, yes, trash it. I had all sorts of useless rubbish and things kept "just in case", and I trashed them. Initially I put them in boxes but the problem remained because it took a lot of space, we are talking about "you can't barely walk" sort of room. The final approach has been just keeping functional things like tools, things used to create things or modify things, end products kept to a minimum, no décor. My room looks like if you had half a workshop room, half a bedroom, and it's fantastic, so much space and everything has it's place.

18 replies and 5 images omitted. Click here to view.

Is an 80 amp stick good for starters?
>Wtf does the amperage mean
>Is an 80 amp stick good for starters?
Not really. It would run most 3/32" electrodes, but 1/8" are a lot nicer for most things you'd be doing. 120A should run the rods you'd be using most of the time even if you had a bigger machine.

>>Wtf does the amperage mean
It's a measure of the amount of electrical current flow. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_current The simple version is that more amps gives more heat, which lets you weld thicker metal. Below a certain point, you're just not going to get good fusion, but above 100A or so (on steel), depending on the electrode you use, it burns in well enough that you can multi-pass any thickness.
Aperage is a (ridiculous) colloquialism for current.
Current is how fat and thick a weld you can last down. When it comes to sparks voltage is how long and current is how thick. You don't think about voltage when welding because although it changes its not important really, so you can think of current (""""""""""amperage"""""""""""") as power. Because its variable up to that current you can think of the rating as a top limit,a ceiling. The typical variable transformer bog standard boxes are continuously variable from basically 0 to max.
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>(ridiculous) colloquialism
The relationship between "ampere" (the SI unit of current) and "amperage" is exactly the same as the relationship between "volt" (the SI unit of electric potential) and "voltage". Are you that pedant who likes to show off how wrong he is every time amperage is brought up in welding threads?

And since you went into it in a way that's probably unclear to the anon asking about it, here's what voltage and amperage have to do with welding:

Voltage is a measure of the force driving an electric current, analogous to water pressure driving a flow of water through a pipe. In arc welding, the voltage has to be high enough to knock electrons off of the gas through which the current will arc to heat the metal. With the shielding gases typically used for MIG and TIG, this is about a dozen volts, while stick usually operates at around twice that. If the machine can't produce the voltage needed to maintain an arc at a given length (a longer arc needs a somewhat higher voltage), the arc will go out. By way of resistive heating across the arc, the electrical current generates intense heat to melt metal. Since the voltage across the arc doesn't vary by much for a given process, the main factor that determines heat input is the current flow, expressed in amps. (continued)
Generally speaking, there are two types of arc welding machines. Constant-current machines (stick and TIG) are built to maintain a fairly steady current flow despite changes in voltage (due to changes in arc length or other factors) which would otherwise produce a relatively large change in current and therefore heat input. You typically set these machines with an amperage control. Nicer ones let you tweak the volt-amp response curve for different effects, but you generally don’t have to worry about voltage with these machines.

Constant-voltage machines (wirefeed processes) are the reverse. They maintain a relatively constant voltage as the amperage changes. As an example, in short-circuit MIG, the wire touching the base metal produces a low-resistance path through which a large current travels, melting the wire and burning it back. This creates a higher-resistance path with a smaller current. The operating voltage and arc current isn’t hot enough to sustain the arc as the wire feeds forward (it is in spray MIG, which behaves differently), so the wire closes the gap and touches again, repeating the process. Some machines are “multiprocess” in that they can function in both constant-current and constant-voltage modes and run the appropriate accessories for the different processes. Also, some nicer wirefeed machines with detailed electronic controls might express their heat input with an amperage control rather than indirectly setting the heat input with a combination of voltage and wirefeed speed.

I really dont know if this is the correct board to ask for this, but whatever.

I purchased a resin figure from a guy and now I want to paint it, my question is should i wear a respirator when sanding the surface to prevent respiratory problems?

I've seen and heared that a respirator and a vacuum cleaner sucking the resin dust are practically mandatory but people use them when cutting resin parts or drilling holes on them so i dont know if slightly sanding the surface of the figure is one of these scenarios.
3 replies omitted. Click here to view.
a respirator with dust cartridges is a great thing to have on hand. once you have it you will find all sorts of uses. And you can upgrade to aerosol cartridges for like 10 bucks. not sure on the cost, i steal my PPE from work.
Do sanding underwater. Put dirty water in trash. EZ
ignore him please

Why not? They're like $20 for one that blocks 99% of all airborne particles. And you can buy replacement filters for cheap
Medical risks typically come from long term exposure. If you're sanding figures every day then you must wear a respirator, but if you do it once, it's not gonna give you lung cancer. Do it with wet sandpaper, run a fan.
That said, it's good to have a respirator around so you should buy one anyway.

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