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Can I just stick this shit together or do I need to do anything with the cells first?
With lead acid I just stuck them together and it worked fine, but man I don't know about these lithium things.
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BMS is for balancing cells in series, all the protection chips do is stop them from discharging below or charging above a certain point, with overcurrent protection.
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I went with such large strips to give the pack more rigidity which helped in construction. I also may add a direct battery connection to power other things or charge the pack faster.
It's a bit better then a simple battery bank because it's also a phone, but I can also write an app that goes by the voltage and can do a lot of things like auto shutdown of external devices and alerts on level.
I went with 18650 because I wanted the most capacity possible without going retarded on weight and size.
If anyone can source some 65mm x 100mm flat packs, I would immediately order them and rebuild the pack. But all flat pack solutions I looked at were going to be more weight and less capacity.
The weight of this thing is still very much manageable and not a big deal. I'd say it's around 2-3lbs.
I'm also considering rebuilding the pack sooner than I thought because it's just a bit too square to go in a pocket well, and a can shave about 3mm by not using the battery cell holders in the construction.
The primary goal of this project is not for daily use, it's just too thick. It's more for long weekend camping, and traveling where it is usually a problem finding a charger.
It's nice to just clip this on as a single unit and the phone will be always working for about two weeks max.

It's now in my actual phone and I'm testing it with normal use. Bad day to wear my pants that don't fit right.
I meant 65 x 100 flat packs that were better then the Ncr18650b pack.
Keeping in mind the spec for it is 18mm thicc ish, 16000mah and change (not a made up chink number), and 250g weight.
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BMS just stands for battery management system, AFAIK it's more general than just that.
Works great so far.
Shaving off the extra 3mil is getting to be a necessity, its just a little bit too thick. Cells aren't coming in till next week though.
And I'm going to leave the round of the cells in as well. Doesn't slide in and out of the pocket easily being so squared off. Although the leather back should help that a lot when I get to that point.

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Currently neet and I really find watching videos of factories and how they run extremely comfy and interesting. I only have hs education and I'm currently 22 years old. What could I study to get into this field? Anybody have any experience related to this?
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...or move somewhere with jobs.
Why the fuck do you think your region is called "the rust belt"
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>can't afford the west coast, plus it's full of faggots and I'm hazguns paleoconservative
>east coast is also full of faggots and super crowded
>not a hick ass redneck so won't fit in down south, plus I don't appreciate the darkies, hurricanes, and tornadoes

I want to live in the america that was taken from me
You could always just kill yourself, I hear the drift off is quite similar to 1970s Ohio.
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>mfw realizing I will die someday, even if I'm too cowardly to DIY it
You should read American Rust.

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Anyone in the gas/heating industry wanna give us some insight as to how this happened?
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My mom works at a Columbia Gas call center and she got called by a guy claiming that he was part of a terrorist group in the Philippines and that they were responsible
It being this close to 9/11 I'm not sure
Dominion did this to a town on Lake Erie like 8 years back. Someone fucked up and they sent transmission pressure gas down residential lines.. so everyone with a standing pilot that was set for 4 inches water column was suddenly getting like 50 psi... instant flamethrower. Town in Ohio was fairport harbor, the regulator froze because it wasn’t buried below the frost line like I believe they’re supposed to be and the safety failed.. something like 15 buildings caught fire. But fairport isn’t a very big place..
>House built in 1304
>Still had original pipes that we salvaged from a house but got Jesus grandmother
>Boomer owners for 10000 years say "lol were grandfathered in we don't need to update gubment can get fucked"
>oh look the porcelain for the knob and tube is l didn't burn in the gas explosion for time to rebuild
>OK now since were reusing these three charred logs from the original house it's now a remodel ok?
>Local gubmint signs off on the "remodel"
>Reused old knob and tube, claims it's original, grandfathered in
>passes inspection
Wew lad
So it's this the answer? Philippine terrorists?
My dad works for Nintendo and he said the same thing.

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so while trying to get a hose off my heater core, I stupidly bent/squashed the pipe where the hose is attached via a clamp. I tried to "re-round" the pipe but I couldn't get it completely round. I imagine the hose is not making full contact with the pipe because I developed a small leak of coolant in there

Is there a way I can make that tube round again ? I can't slide the hose more inwards since there's a ring on the pipe that prevents me from doing so. I know I could get another clamp in there and hope for the best, but I want to see if I can fix the tubing first

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then how the fuck does your air flow get past it
Cut it and maybe extend it with another smaller piece by soldering it.
This is probably the whitest way suggested so far
>ended up using 2 hose clamps, going to monitor what happens
If it leaks, get one of these.
well fuck me, that's exactly what I was looking for!
I'll keep an eye on the fix but I'll buy one just in case anyway.

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Hey /diy/

Been a while since I gave an update. Some people here know, and as I'm sure most do not I recently got some real torn up land out in the country for cheap. Catch was, it was torn up by some loggers who didn't clean up after themselves. I've also had a lot of issues trying to get heavy machinery in there because as we all know, people are unreliable.

Well, I managed to swing an old tractor, and I broke ground today clearing the driveway and ultimately cleaning the place up. It's not exactly a bulldozer that's going to do the job in an afternoon, but it's what I've got. Good news is, I'll be able to finally do some real digging. I didn't get any pictures today. It was raining (hurricane is coming in) and I was just focused on running this crazy thing safely. I'll dump some pics I've accumulated so far. As slow as this board is, I'm sure I can document some real progress for you guys before this 404s.
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what state and how much did it cost? how do I achieve your mode?

Consider spreading ryegrass seed for erosion control. Look up your state ag service and read up on it.
I keep looking at those tires.
I have a compact Kubota with R-4s on it.
For what you're doing you definitely need the AGs.

Have Fun, OP!
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You could probably talk a few anons into camping out in your mud and getting things into order if you let us hoot and holler once in a while
glad to see it's all coming together. did you decide if/how you were gonna wall it off? I might be thinking of a different anon though.

you should plant some black walnut trees as a retirement fund for your daughter/other kids.

Architects and common folk of 4chan I need your advice.

For some fucking odd reason i have the urge to make an old ruin with a small river flowing inside it (somewhat like pic related), I have wanted to do this for years and am now starting to plan it all out.

So my plans for now is to buy some land at a beach so i can shit ton of big enough stones from the water (live in Denmark we dont have many big stones on land).

and buy alot of concrete to hold the stones together for the wall (idk the proper word so i will call it concrete).

So what do I need to do so it doesnt fall over itself? what do i need to make a propper foundation? of tools? etc. give me all the knowlagde you have.

as of now im saving money to do this so i have alot of time planning, and will do some research myself too; im fully aware this will probs fail, but i will regret if i dont atleast try.

18 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
glass fiber
Dont use large rocks at all. Pre fabricated foam concrete forms and rebar. Toss it together like legoes, cement, and coblestone it with local rocks.
It would last, but likely not look authentic enough. Just interlocking the stone pieces (mortise and tenon) might be enough to keep the thing upright through earthquakes.
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best bet is piles if you want to be next to water, otherwise foundations will shift over time.
next to the ocean is risky there will rarely be any decent bearing strata there, it would be worth hiring a geotechnical engineer to drill some bore holes before buying a plot to see if it's suitable.

best bet is buying a plot next to a river and pumping/diverting some your way. not sure what the legalities are in Denmark but over here you can't touch rivers. be careful for flooding though

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how would i go about making a quiz buzzer setup which also showed who pressed their button first?
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>its not ideal solution because race conditions.

clearly you don't use arduinos. and I suppose I really meant AVRs and assembler, but even with arduino and C++ you have a loop that looks at the four pins. Even with C++ the loop will be blazingly fast compared to human response and perception, and you will NEVER have two presses within the same loop, so you can tell who pressed first.

And if you program any microcontroller at all and you have race conditions you are simply incompetent. It might be easier and smarter to use flip flops and discrete logic, but a 16 Mhz avr can do the job for a few bucks, assuming you can code your way out of a paper sack.
>you will NEVER have two presses within the same loop,

>inb4 autistic spregloards, yes it's possible BUT IT WON'T HAPPEN except maybe 1 out of 20 million tries.
>assuming you can code
we had this exact question maybe a few months ago and someone posted example code for review that i can't remember how it worked but there was perhaps 5 or 6 instructions between testing each input separately.
personally i would have all inputs on one port and read the whole thing into memory and test it there, there is still the possibility someone pressed first will 'tie' with someone pressing second but you can avoid the second presser being bumped to first.

it's all well and good saying IT WONT HAPPEN but that's not really the point, this is a /diy/ board and while the OP might be happy with ignoring edge conditions the principle is important for other applications and we wouldn't want anyone else getting the wrong idea that this is an ok thing to do because it might come back and bite you in the dick at some point.
If you aren't hellbent on building a buzzer system, you could try qbuzzer. com

ok, that "edge condition" nonsense convinced me. You are correct, and I give you this thread.


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any idea on how to fix this? is JB Weld and a Nail for Support the Best thing i can do?
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Buy a new one
why do you even need one
TIG weld it
Either >>1466998 or if you don't have a TIG welder, >>1466987
Slappin' tricks when they get out of line

I want to give my dad a handmade bible (or any of the books of the bible) for his birthday and I know very little about going about the process

My main problem is binding. I want a binding method that doesn't force me to fold the leaves because I'm very content with their size as they are. That and any other advice would be appreciated
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I appreciate the feedback but that doesn't help me a whole lot.

What a fucking retard.


Look for perfect binding, OP. Its a way of glueing the pages to form the spine. Not as resistent, but a very good method. And also, I may be wrong, but I think japanese binding make the holes on the side of the pages, so it would also work. Bookbinding is a really great craft.
Both great ideas. I might try a combination of the two if possible to make it more sturdy
I've had success by squaring all the pages, clamping them together with several binder clips, then slightly fanning where the spine would be and carefully applying 5 minute epoxy directly to the paper. It makes a psudo-spine out of epoxy that works great. Next just add a cover.

Hey /diy/, first time installing a floor by myself, been calling some stores and been told wildly different bullshit from every store. I only want something that will float and thats under $2 per foot. Itll be on a wood subfloor that previously had carpet, some very minor bumps but otherwise the floor is level.
Pls help me out fellas, gotta get this done ASAP
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You think other people won't notice your cheap fake wood floors. People notice.
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I would advise against tongue and groove floating floors. They don't go together right, they don't stay together right, they can shift around, and in general they're a pain the the fucking ass and look like shit.
Have some in my house from previous owner. It’s okay, doesn’t look as nice as the other rooms but it’s not too horrible and it’s easy to clean. That said, I’ve had 2 or 3 boards shift apart the slightest bit (1/8in at most, just enough to notice), but I can scuff my foot across it and it pushes together again. I chalk that up under poor installation. The other issue is the old lady that owned the house before me was told that you can’t let water sit on it. She had a section redone after the first winter she had it because people would come in and take their shoes off and the little bit of snow that was on their shoes melted and water sat by the door and fucked up a few of the boards. Easily solved by putting in an area rug or floor runner, or boot tray by the door.
Op here, after going to the floor store i had to settle on vinyl due to how humid and dry my room gets every day. I orginally wanted bamboo, but multiple stores agreed on tile or vinyl due to the dry/humid problem. I rent so im not gonna put expensive flooring in anyways, i just needed to replace moldy carpet. They click, so hopefully they wont shift much


Post useful information for making, fixing or anything else
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Didnt work for shit. Trying hot seltser water next
Sure. Do you have anything on fasteners and lubricants/grease?
Filename kek

It's hard to trust when it doesn't know wood glue is PVA.

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What is this switch called? I need the exact same one. It spins, in steps and also pushes in as a push button.

Has 2 inputs one side, and 3 the other side.
rotary encoder with pushbutton

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first, a question; i need a DIY cane but i also want it to be a dual purpose tool that can be used as a weapon.... so is this a violation of the rules? do i need to post this in /k/? or can i skirt by?

long time /b/tard, /pol/ock fa/tg/guy lurker supreme, just wanna ensure my first post in /diy/ isnt garbage shit.

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Youre fine. We get 450 pallet threads and i post dicks i made all the time.

Thin walled aluminum pipe. Cool shift knob. Rubber foot. Cheap sword sharpened to fuck and welded to shift knob.

Unless you want a cane gun i guess
Sucks anon. Right there with you. I use one in the mornings. Im 32 with a bumb ankle.

Feels batman.
Thos thread already
Get a good switchblade and mount it in the bottm with a trigger up top!
You can get a fake $300 benchmade switchblade for like 20 bucks on ebay

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I'm "repairing" an auto pencil shapener that melted. I want to convert it into a handheld sharpener with a crank. The large grey plastic part in pic related is what I want to remove and replace with a more usable part. Ill post more details but you engineerfags have to help me.
stick your cock in it
go buy one, jamal
Hell i got an antique manual in a house i just bought. If nobody ran off with it I'll see if it works. Get me a mailing adress if u like

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So the other day I was making some ferric chloride for etching my signature on some of my projects. I did this by soaking rusted iron in hydrochloric acid in my shop overnight...

Today, I went in my shop and found about half of my tools covered in rust. Apparently an open container with 150 mLs of HCl indoors is enough to fuck up hundreds of dollars worth of tools.

Fml. Anyone know a good way to clean this shit up?

>pic related is a handful of tools that were affected. They were all pristine 2 days ago. Hell, the chisels are always kept oiled and they still got hit pretty bad.
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bleach and ammonia 30/70 mix works incredible for removing rust

wont take out the pitting obviously but the rust will disappear before your eyes
>bleach and ammonia
Come on man, you are a distinguished poster of repute. Why are you telling anons to poison themselves with chlorine gas?

I'd laugh at your foolishness, except I had almost this exact same thing happen to me. Difference was, I was oxygenating a copper chloride solution instead, with a small aquarium pump that fed a tube to bubble air through the milk jug I kept it in. Came back to it in the morning to find not just almost every single tool left out, but my BRAND FUCKING NEW ballscrews for my CNC router got dicked, too.

Feels bad, man. Took it off the surfaces I could be arsed to do so with naval jelly. Everything else, I just wire brushed away the loose rust.

I knew the vapors were corrosive, but I didn't know they were THAT bad. For the record, I solved the issue by having the acid-laden milk jug exhaust filtered through a jar full of sodium carbonate (washing soda).
>acid gas is is good for my tools
wow you guys sure are retarded
>a small quantity of mildly acidic gas in the air will damage tools 30 feet away
Christ how do you keep your acidic attitude from ruining yours?

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