Touring Edition Resources:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-helpRJ the bike guy on youtubeprevious>>2028416
>>2031441incorrectly tilted handlebars edition
>>2031446literally a pro cyclist
>>2031447he won't be a pro for long after slipping off those hoods when hitting a bump, the levers are supposed to be aligned vertically, not backwards.
Guy at my local specialized dealership told me that spindle length doesn't matter on square taper bottom brackets. It matters, right? Why would velo orange offer seven different spindle lengths if it didn't matter?
>>2031449It's not that it doesn't matter exactly but more that if it works, it works, and there is usually a fairly wide range that can work with any given setup and given that square taper cranks are usually on cheap bikes and cheap themselves it's not worth overthinking. Beyond that it's fairly complicated. I like having a narrow q-factor (pedals closer together) and so do most people so really you want to try and get it as narrow as you can. The original or mfg recommended width is usually conservatively wide. Given repeated and bad installs crank tapers can wallow out. The bottom bracket tapers, even within one 'standard' are often different sizes. So how far a crank even sits on one width can be quite random. Obviously you can't have the chainring or the crank arm hit the frame but you also can't exceed what the limit screws of the derailer will allow, and sometimes derailers can shift badly at their extreme limits, for example the spring might be worn out or the pivots a bit stiff and so the derailer won't return all the way against a wound out low limit, or, your shifters might not enjoy fighting to the end of a stiff spring. Before you pull a crank to replace a bb, you should work out how much clearance it has to the frame and how much adjustment is left in the limit screws so that you can guess at going narrower or just what available sizes might work.
>>2031449also consider that many older cranks (campy), or mismatched cranks require asymmetric spindles In a standard 68mm frame, you can get the asymmetry with a new cartridge unit, just use a 73mm mtb one and then you have 5mm of spacers that can go either side under the cup.
>>2031449There's also chainline, which depending on setup largely doesn't matter / is quite forgiving, but chainline can be optimized, and what the spec sheet says to use is not necessarily optimal
why are gravel bikes so fucking expensive, road bikes as wellit doesnt have suspension, just fancy handlebars desu
>>2031458drop bar brifters cost more to manufacture, aside from that the extra cost for road bikes and especially gravel bikes is because the consumer is apparently willing to pay more. the industy also has been hiking up the prices like crazy, even just 10 years ago entry level bikes were way cheaper.
>>2031458If you want to be cheap just buy an older hybrid, rigid mtb, or hardtail. The new ones cost what they do since they sell at that price. Road bikes are way cheaper on the used market, so if you want to try out curly bars get a vintage one.Oh, and the walmart ozark gravel bike is supposedly alright, so that's one way to get a cheaper one.>>2031449Other anon is right again.Your constraints of the spindle is too short=crank hitting frame, too long=cross chaining like a retard. Then there is standards (ISO vs JIS).After that is q-factor which is kind of a bigger issue long term with clipless. WIth flats you can deal with it fine, but really narrow q-factors are bad for big or fat people who need a wider q, and the reverse is true for narrow hipped people.
>>2031458>why are gravel bikes so fucking expensive, road bikes as wellbecause they're actually good Your frame of reference for cheap bikes, mtb, hybrid etc, those usually come out of the box with out of true wheels and wild tension, terrible alignment on the brake calipers and all kinds of other cheap fuckery because the price point demands lack of care in the factory. If you buy one from a bike shop it may be assembled by a mechanic who fixes some of these things and if you buy one from a big box store it probably just comes fucked. Drop bar bikes are aimed at people who actually ride and are usually higher quality, beyond how good you'd think they'd be on paper. That's true for higher tiers of mtbs and some entry level or hybrid bikes from fancy brands. And if you compare prices on -those- then they're kinda close to drop bar ones. You may have an idea of what specs you want but it's also worth considering that bikes are often just bad quality beyond the level of the components. >>2031463also yeah, cost of brifters, and meme tax
marin four corners 1 2025 changed from sora 3x9 to microshift sword black 2x9 with a shitty square bracket. the latter group set is compatible with a lot of shimano stuff, and so my question is, what is the best route for upgrading this gearset? some online have recommended shimano cues to do something like 46-32 crank with an 11-45 or 11-50 cassette, for instance.
>>2031489'upgrading' a groupset, especially a new one, ESPEICALLY a new one you haven't evne bought yet, ESPECIALLY ESPECIALLY to something also cheap like cues that isn't even much better, it's just completely retarded, and the best reason to do it would be to get wider gears, but the 46-29 & 11-38 stock gearing is very sensible already. I don't see why you'd want wider unless you were doing some pretty specific form of offroad touring in hills and i think you should try that first. Square taper is a small weight / stiffness penalty and on a gravel bike like that, changing it would probably not even be perceivable. As long as a cheap groupset is running smoothly, which is usually always possible, even with tourney, upgrading it is disappointing. If you want to spend money pay more for a bike with GRX off that bat. Because the big limitation of that bike isn't the gearing, it's the cable disc brakes (though spyres aren't bad) and upgrading away from that requires hydro STI levers and it'd be cheaper just to buy something higher spec straight up. If you wanted to throw money at that bike, you'd do fancy racks, tires, and then nicer wheels maybe with a dynamo hub. But i'd wait on the wheels to see if those don't hold up because if they do then they're fine.
>>2031490this is good advice, thanks. it'll be my first real bike which ive limited to a budget of 1k so im kind of gung-ho about it. the major upgrades i do plan on right away are the tires and saddle. it is nice to know that the microshift groupset is compatible with shimano, however. i wanted to gauge interest in that compatibility (whether or not it's justified).
>>2031493the stock tires and saddle are probably fine man. Id wear out the tires before changing them. you're gonna find -any- saddle uncomfortable if you aren't used to riding, until you break your ass in. Don't try to upgrade away from muscular pain. If you get benis pain then that's bad but its often a fit adjustment you need rather than a different saddle.
>>2031489i thought cues for drop bars hadn't even dropped yet? it uses it's own cable pull ratio of 1.2, so it wouldn't work with other shimano brifters
>>2031493different guy here,fwiw, I bought my first set of brifters about a year ago to put on my 2x7 roadie with a blown downtube shifter. obviously nothing top of the line is even made for 2x7 and even if it were, wouldn't make sense to put on an aluminum frame from 1989. so I somewhat arbitrarily got microshift because between them and sensah/any other cheap chinese brifters it seemed like MS had been in business the longest.so anyhow, I put them on and they're legit. I push the levers and the gears shift. not the snappiest performance but not what I personally would call laggy, either. plus I don't compete so it doesn't really matter anyway. they haven't gone out of adjustment or any problems whatsoever. I assume Sword is better quality than mine.I'm not the most demanding customer but I've ridden a lot of bikes over the years and I cannot find any fault in my MS. just werks.
>>2031496ps the entire existing drivetrain is old Shimano 105 derailleurs, Shimano cassette, and suntour cyclone crank. no problems.
>>2031493for saddles, you gotta try a lot of stuff but I wouldn't get an expensive saddle until 1) you break your ass in like he said, and 2) you get your width dialed in by trying different cheap saddles. before you know that, upgrading to an expensive saddle doesn't make any sense. this chart gives you an idea but there's different charts/everyone's different. measure sit bones by mashing ass into corrugated cardboard.
>>2031494well the bike is going to be a commuter for a short while so i wanted to invest in puncture-resistant tires with mezcals in the front and either pathfinder or gravelking in the back. anon has also shared similar sentiments in regard to the saddle >>2031498 it is more sound advice>>2031495the polish guy who made the remark got too excited>>2031496ive read similar feelings toward ms which makes me more comfortable with the stock gearset
>>2031499seems like you're overinvesting in memes and 'research', most tires do a reasonable job of puncture resistance and punctures are usually bad luck, snakebites due to low pressure, or because a tire is old. plus nice tires (including gravelkingz) are not super puncture resistant because a sturdy sidewall and a thick kevlar belt makes tires uncomfy and sluggish. I got a puncture in my gravelkangz last time i went touring lol, i don't know why you think they'd be amazingly durable. Maybe get a puncture first before you invest in puncture resistance.
>>2031500i just dont want to get a puncture on my way to work, and there is nothing wrong with researching the countless testimonials, as well as inhouse data from sites like bicyclerollingresistance, on a tire's puncture resistance. do you have experience with vee tire? also i dont care if the ride is sluggish it's not why im interested in a touring bike
>>2031501>countless testimonialsyou're gonna find someone crying about getting flats online with pretty much every nice common tire, usually due to poor install or bad luck. 'Researching' puncture resistance is just an exercise in gaslighting yourself and heading down the path of buying Marathon pluses, which are awful to ride. BRR is basically astrology for bike nerds. Take it with a grain of salt. >i dont care if the ride is sluggish it's not why im interested in a touring bikeyou wanted something with wider tires because it's 'comfortable' and decent offroad right? If you buy the tires that are super beefy then they are not comfortable or good offroad. A pure road bike with nice road 28s is nicer to ride on gravel than a touring bike with marathon plus 35s.
>>2031502how many vee tires have ridden the gdmbr?
>>2031501keeping your eye on the road several yards ahead of you and picking your line, learning to use your hips to throw the bike around sketchy shit is the way to avoid flats. any flat protection on the tire is insurance but like anon says too much is a bad thing. I rolled some normal marathons thinking I needed the insurance and I still caught a few flats. the marathon plusses and supremes are for people who have like goathead thorns where they live. the regular ones rolled just fine but anything stiffer or deader is not a trade-off I personally would make. I switched to paselas on that bike and I'm not catching any flats beyond one bad luck situation. comparitively, the ride on my gp5ks on my other bike is plush and much grippier than both of them. I caught a flat on them because I took a familiar route for granted, wasn't looking and a bottle had been broken the night before.paying attention has paid off for me moreso than flat protection, but I think a little bit is fine if it doesn't interfere with the ride quality.
>>2031503iunno man, maybe not none
>>2031502a lot of the "user error" shit is true, but that doesn't mean it's all the same
>finally snowed good and the temp wont go upi hate this part of winter. now it turns to brown salt slush mud that i don't want anywhere near my shit. i stopped riding for now
>>2031509ok
>>2031509>his rides are dictated by the weatherMTB chads win ONCE AGAIN
>>2031531who needs hills when you can get resistance via riding through thick mud......
did anyone have a fucking question?
>>2031551yeah pls respond to >>2031552I am extremely braindead, its my first bike and I dont know how the cable and the shield over it works, why did they leave a little piece of unprotected cable like that? are the frame mounting points not big enough for the shield? if thats the case what do I do? detach cable, remove last shielded part, insert new shielded part, insert last shielded part, attach everything back together?
>>2031553It's fine and that looks correct. You run exposed cable since it has no resistance in the cable liner, and you want a section near the rear derailleur so you can remove it easy, clean, lube and replace it easily.less cable liner the better imo. It's why old vintage road bikes have only a short section
is it possible to just bend/replace a derailleur hanger without the tools?, I don't want to do the trip to the bike mechanic, also my rear hydraulic brake has been spongy ever since I left the bike upside down for a week
>>2031559Yeah steel ones bend okay, aluminum.... maybe not.
>>2031500Tires are the single most important and differentiating component on any bicycle that has ever existed. If there’s ever a time to sit on your ass and research for a week, it’s with tires
>>2031559Grab an adjustable wrench and be aware that you only get a certain number of re-bends before it snaps off
>>2031559your bike has hydraulic brakes but it doesn't have a replaceable derailleur hanger? I thought they became standard around the same time.I've heard something about turning upside down fucks up hydro. in any event, if they feel spongy you'll probably have to bleed them.
>>2031565it does but I am the kind of guy that uses shit until it breaks and yes I injure myself every 3 months
>>2031568If it's an aluminum hanger just slowly bend it to where it needs to go. With steel go a little beyond and let it bounce back.
>>2031448>reddit expert™ doesnt know about aero hoods position
>>2031458just buy a mountain bike
>>2031504>>2031506ive changed my mind. ill be choosing a muirwoods just so i can chuck large ass grippy 2.35" tires on it. the idea of having an all terrain bike appeals to my soul. plus, i can get it for $650 used.
>>2031572they're great but man that is not cheapMuirwoods are US$570 -new- in NZ atm , though i prefer the older spec ones with deore triples.
>>2031568ok, go nuts, I guess.an adjustable wrench is the tried and true tool, the handle allows for good leverage and ease of moving it in tiny increments.the last time I did it, I left the derailleur on and used a jorgensen clamp: one jaw on the inner hanger surface, around the whole derailleur mount, and the other jaw on the mounting bolt. the handles gave pretty good leverage but it was really easy to see how it needed to be moved and line it up with the derailleur still on it. this was a welded steel hanger, though. I still think you should be able to bend yours, though, but I just can't speak from experience.
>>2031570jfc this is not comfortable looking, but if it's fast, it's fast.
What kind of tool is needed for this?
>>2031581Almost looks like a 5mm bolt was shoved in there to stop someone from undoing it...........I would spray it with penetrating oil, and try and pry that thing out. If it didn't work i would just cut the stem since it doesn't look like safety torx or safety hex.
>>2031581not really visible but it's gonna be a 5 or 6mm allen key. the bolt draws the wedge up and jams it in the steerer, so what you do is loosen it a little (not all the way, you want the bolt still threaded into the wedge), and then hit it to knock the wedge down.
>>2031583yeah but there's something covering the opening >>2031581that bolt takes an allen wrench probably 6mm but it looks like there's a dust cap or something over the head. should pry off somehow .
>>2031582The person undoing it is me. This is a nice set of bars that’s been on a rusted out bike locked outside for years >>2031583I tried my smallest Allen key and nothing. There’s no grooves or anything to catch on to
>>2031585I know you are undoing it, I meant someone before you jammed a hex bolt in there to stop it from walking away(imo).That's why I would just chop the stem in half, pound the quill out of the steerer and get another stem.Or pry at whatever is in the bolt for a while.Could try a drill bit but that's a fuck ton of hassle.
>>2031581ok so if that's just some janky fucky thing someone jammed and maybe glued inside the head of the quill bolt for some retarded reason then if you can get it to turn you can get it out. It might be possible with some needlenose pliers. Otherwise, cut a slot in the head of it with an angle grinder. Or, the very end of a bare hacksaw blade on an angle with 2 cuts. Then you can turn it and break it loose with a scrap chisel or flathead.
>>2031585it looks like a nut that the previous owner has glued into the stem bolt so nobody could steal the stem/bars/shifters by loosening one bolt while it was locked up.if I'm right, the inside of the hole is threaded. try straightening a paperclip, sticking it down there, and pulling the end along the inside, if you feel ridges that's threads. you can buy super glue solvent, pour it down the hole and edges, thread a bolt into the hole, and yank it with pliers.at least, I hope so. that's what I would do. even if it's not threaded, put solvent in there, stick like a drill bit or something the size of the hole and rock it back and forth to loosen the glue.if not, the destructive methods anons said is your only options.
I’ve only ridden rim brake steel bikes and I’m looking to rent while abroad. I’ve got an option of a Cannondale Synapse or Super Six Evo. Would I find a modern endurance bike “boring” to ride coming from vintage geometry? It will be social riding with a club so it probably makes sense. Another bonus with the Synapse is it has mechanical Ultegra rather than Di2. But I also feels like an opportunity to ride a modern race bike with decent wheels (the Synapse has Fulcrums).
>>2031602It won't be "boring" but it'll lack "character," but modern bikes are nice so it'll still be fun, especially in your context of a club ride, it's the right tool for the job.
>>2031581Looks like a security screw sorry Jamal
I'm a marathon runner and I'm just starting in the cycling world. This weekend, if the weather is good, I'll take a train to a village about 50km from where I live and I'll cycle back to my town from there (I live in Europe).I've never done rides like this, so what should I take with me in terms of maintenance? Later I'll go to the bike shop and I'm thinking about getting:- Tyre repair spray can (idk how good those are, but they look very handy to use instead of a puncture repair kit)- A pair of those plastic things to take out the outer tire if necessary- Mini hand pump - Spare inner tube- Oil spray (maybe not to take with me, but to lubricate before I go)What do you guys think about this list? Should I worry about anything else?
>>2031624you should take a multitool with 4 / 5 mm allen keys and every other major fastener on your bike so that if something slips, a cable snaps, or you crash and your steerer rotates (as it should) then you can fix it. tyre repair spray is nothing don't get thatyes tire levers, pump and tube, get a glueless patch kit too, those are small and easy to use don't get 'oil spray', get chain lube if your chain is loud otherwise don't worry about it but yeah you should have chain lube, and a tub of grease but get that from an autoparts store.
>>2031489Get the right drivetrain in the first place. >>2031494>>2031498Saddle is VERY personal. That one is fine to change, as soon as you figure which one you should use.>>2031501Consider sealant. Also remember that tire conditions vary from place to place. Action packed trip to detroit, vs Southwest desert goatheads, vs french pastoral pave and cobbles. You probably don't need to go any more durable than basic training tires, unless your commute is in the Gaza strip or New Jersey.
>>2031573it is 28% off retail price here in the states and it also comes with the padded wolf tooth grips and aluminum pedals. it seems like a really good bike for the price relative to what is on the market, in particular the bigly tire clearance.>>2031626the four corners 1 doesn't come with tubeless compatible rims. neither does muirwoods.
>>2031627https://store.marinbikes.com/products/marin-alloy-mtb-rims-27-5-or-29-32h>Tubeless compatible
Why do bike riders mostly seem to be either peak CONSOOMers who think a bike is antique if it's over 2 years old, or hobos who do shit like reuse cable housing and can't afford tools that cost like $7?Damn near everyone is either a Fred or a crackhead.
>>2031629don't be defensive just because you're a shit mechanic I bet i have more nice tools than you.
>>2031624you better get your fit sorted out before you go, and bring the allen wrenches for seat post frame clamp and saddle clamp, all your stem bolts, and the brifter clamp bolts; on your first long ride you will definitely feel what needs to be adjusted. realistically they are 4,5, & 6 mm but check.have you done any fitting yet at all? the stem height will be the hardest to do on a ride since you need to add/remove spacers. (unless you have an old bike with a quill stem.) if you're new you probably want it high-ish but I'd play around with it (and all aspects of fit) by riding circles around my neighborhood trying it high, low, and medium so you aren't just guessing.if you don't know what your correct saddle height is you NEED to get it before you do 50k. also have the saddle level and centered in the clamp and move it only micro adjustments if you're getting e.g.wrist pain. do NOT use the saddle clamp to adjust your reach. adjust reach by buying a different length stem. many stems can be flipped which effectively makes them a different reach but also affects stack (height) so you also have to play with the spacers.there's a lot of fit advice, too much to type but we can narrow it down with your feedback and questions.
Do threadless headsets always come loose especially if you use the front brakes? Or do I need to replace them and the fork race?
>>2031651not him but are there even races on threadless? I thought everything was cartridge bearings.
>>2031602Pick the one with the better paintjob.Both will be a new experience so you can't lose.>>2031611good call. Never seen that before.>>2031624Allen/hex tools to adjust parts on your bike as you notice (seat seems low, handlebars seem high, x is loosening).Chain breaker is always important.Enough water and food. bonking running low on energy/carbs is bad.>>2031629I can afford 100 dollar tools AND reuse cable housings that are in decent shape>>2031651No your shit is loose. Go tighter on the top bolt before you clamp the stem on. If you run a carbon steerer figure it out yourself.
>>2031651>>2031652>>2031653Woops, meant threaded headset.
>>2031655If it's a threaded headset with loose balls you generally have to do one adjustment after riding it a bit. Remember you are using the first ring to preload, and the second to lock it down. So if you don't have enough preload/grease leaks out then you have to tighten it again.I find a little tighter is better then looser since loose and you get clunk,clunk feelings going over road bumps.
>>2031655is it a new bike? you can just tighten the adjustment.if it's an old bike, especially a used bike, the play over the years can have fucked the bearings. but not necessarily.you gotta open it up and check the bearings, races and grease. even if they're ok and just need a tighter adjustment, you should be prepared to clean and put fresh grease on every time you pull any bearing assembly apart.
Anyone have one of those bike trainers from Wahoo? I haven't ridden in months, I just got burned out, but now the urge to ride has come back. It's consistently below 32F outside and I aint tryin to ride in that shit, I've ridden in cold weather before and it's miserable even with the proper gear and I don't want to eat shit on ice. I was considering getting a trainer and maybe Zwift and seeing how it goes but that's a lot of money to drop on something to find out it's shit. Pic is probably the model I would get, with the mat. If I'm going to go the trainer route I'll go all in.
>>2031679canyon owners need not apply
>>2031680wdym? I own an Aeroad.
>>2031679>burned outtry making it fun like connecting to to gta5. i know you can use mods like lspdf and act as a bicycle cop and its pretty fun, but if you actually stop that kinda impedes training, so you can just ride around the map too https://www.gtbikev.com/
>>2031685>linking it to gta5lmao, this is cool.
>>2031652>not him but are there even races on threadless? I thought everything was cartridge bearings.nah mate shitloads of threadless headsets use cup and cone bearingstheres not really much difference between a threadless and threaded headset. The bottom bit is identical. And some threaded headsets are cartridge.
say you want to change your chain at .5% wornwould you change it when the first segment of 6 links is >.5% worn or when the total chain length is >.5% longer/wornlike when I measure on my bike, some segments are fine, some are stretched.
>>2031693If some are stretched change it. That's why you check it in multiple places.
>>2031681https://www.google.com/search?q=canyon+turbo+trainers+void+warranty
>>2031679zwift + indoor trainer does best with people who can endure a lot more misery than riding outside in shit sub-freezing conditions because it's actually just a lot worse. I don't rec spending a lot of money on it as your first try. best option is to see how often and for how long long you can ride a shitty trainer at a fitness place. If you can go ride one of those for 45 mins, 3-5 times per week, for 6-8 months then you can benefit from a high quality zwift setup
>>2031698nta but how is it worse? because it's tedious or there's a comfort issue?
>>2031629I once drilled a headset spacer out of wood and coloured it black with a marker because I didn't want to pay 11$ + shipping while I looked for a junkyard bike to strip extra spare parts off of
>>2031693sometimes i reckon you should change it just to have a clean chain and sometimes situationally it makes sense to never change it
>>2031570The ultraendurance touring world isn’t ready for my TT stance
>>2031653>she didn’t buy the 100ft spools of housing when they were 70% off
>>2031698>fitness placeI got into cycling specifically so I could be outdoors, exercise and not have to interact with people or have them look at me (I'm one ugly MF). Going to a "fitness place" to test shit out is an absolute resounding no. I'll drop the dosh on a nice set up and if I don't like it it'll sit in the closet then I'll throw it away when I move I really don't care, I absolutely refuse to interact with people if I don't have to. I already have a really nice road bike (Canyon Aeroad CF SL 8.0 DI2 Disc) and 1000s in cycling gear so I doubt it would be miserable. I hate the cold which is why I've been in the south for the past decade BUT work has brought me up north and you got me fucked up if you think I'm gonna go out in 30 below weather. I've biked a few times in that cold and it's fucking miserable (for me). I've also used in door stationary bikes and while they were shit I can imagine a dedicated trainer would be better. I plan to use Zwift on one of my PC monitors and put a fan on myself. I haven't bought anything yet but the urge to bike is hitting me strong even though I've been off the bike for a few months. I'm going to give it a few more days thought then decide what I want to do. I got taxes and a nice work bonus coming so I could easily have everything soon and it would get used every winter instead of losing all that fitness I worked so hard for (which is killing me more and more everyday) I guess I'll see what I want to do. I've been cycling for almost 10 years now and every 2 years or so I'll burn out, take a few months off and come back at it stronger than ever it just sucks now because I can't just hop on and go when it's 15F outside.
>>2031501>i just dont want to get a puncture on my way to work, and there is nothing wrong with researching the countless testimonials, as well as inhouse data from sites like bicyclerollingresistance, on a tire's puncture resistance. do you have experience with vee tire? also i dont care if the ride is sluggish it's not why im interested in a touring bikepeople on here hate them, but if you want good puncture resistance road bike tires, get gatorskins. i only use those and i have incredible puncture protection with them. sure i get the rare puncture, but my current gatorskin tires i installed january 1, 2023. im at over 6,000 miles on them in the two years since install and they still hold up. i would say i get a flat in them maybe every 1,000-1,500 miles
How do you remove a bolt that has a ripped profile? Basically no tool can grab on it and solder wont stick. The damn thing made my gearing unusable. Also that bike will be sold anyways as it does not fit me. What sort of bike am i looking for as a 190cm tall man that does not want to bend my spine like a corner to grab the handlebars. The handlebars and the seat are at the same time and its uncomfortable. The seat is as high as possible and my legs still cannot do a full stroke.
>>2031752>The handlebars and the seat are at the same timeSame hight.
>>2031752>Basically no tool can grab on itthere probably is some type of method and tool for this that most people have never heard of. I'd take the bike to an auto mechanic shop that gets lots of business and show it to them.>190cmyou're my height. I buy used and both my frames are undersized, a 60cm and a 62 cm, but with them I can use a modern long seatpost to get it right. however, I prefer the handlebars dropped a bit from saddle height. the 62 I can get my fit with the stock stem, the 60 I had to shell out for a nitto technomic to get my fit.there are vintage models that were made as large as 65cm. I believe 65 would be correct for us but I just bought the biggest I found at the time and made it work. kinda dumb but my fit is good after lots of work. when searching, look for pics with notably long headtubes and if the listing doesn't say ask the seller to measure and teach them how.for new geometry frames, an XL frame ought to be right, I don't have experience there but I know they are made.
>>2031758>modern long seatpostas in, any ordinary modern seatpost is much longer than the ones that came stock on my old bikes. I just bought cheap aluminum ones off ali.
>>2031752What kind of bolt are you talking about? Can you make a cut with a saw and use a flat headed screwdriver to remove it? There’s always the option of drilling it out?
Im considering just raising the handlebars. The bike is otherwise good, has hydraulic breaks and stuff. Other than the size the gearing sometimes does not engage and the paddles(picrel) go through with no resistance. If i can fix those two issues i think its the best bike i can currently have. Was too optimistic about the bike market here.> I'd take the bike to an auto mechanic shop that gets lots of business and show it to them.I think that's the only option i have. You could take apart the whole assembly and have a easier time getting it out of there, which is probably what a bike mechanic would do, but a properly equipped shop could probably get it out with little effort.>>2031763>What kind of bolt are you talking about?A short M5 bolt that holds the shifting wire thing in place. It snapped on me and i had to replace it. Lost the original bolt and used another fitting one, that one broke.>Can you make a cut with a saw and use a flat headed screwdriver to remove it?Don't think so. The mechanism hides the bolt in a way where only a driver can get to it. Drilling it out is also unlikely as the mechanism is springy and bends around. It would only make it worse.
>>2031752>How do you remove a bolt that has a ripped profile?...torx?
>>2031679used trainers are super super cheap in many markets, particularly if you're going wheel-on. braked-flywheel spin bikes are often available free if you look, but storage is trickier.>>2031711gator hardshells are srsly just fine>>2031441holy fucking based. i'n surprised those seatstays held up to clamping. actually wtf even is that rack. I didn't think it was a tailfin but it looks like he's got it on the thru axle somehow?
>>2031812It’s an oldmanmountain rack and it is bolted to a special axle they sell with it, they’ve actually been doing the tailfin thing for slightly longer than tailfin has
>>2031769Can you force a torx in there? Maybe epoxy it into place and wait a week for it to cure?
>>2031798>>2031836>torxdon't have any.But i ordered some "metal welding" epoxy yesterday that should do the trick.
>ride like 100km on my mtb (my first bike)>muddy so like half is on road>already want a gravel bikeb-bros....pic rel is a Ridley X-Bow Allroad and is under 300 euros
>>2031752Try placing a bit of heat shrink, electrical tape, or some other soft semi-rubbery material between the driver bit and the bolt head. This should suffice for most stripped bolts that we run in to in cycling.
>>2031752>>2031861
>>2031853uhh thats a cycloross bike achtully
Is chicago bad for buying cool bikes or why am I only finding specialized stores and neighborhood commuter clunkers and ebike crap
>>2031890There got to be an indie dealer out in the burbs or wrigleyville. Search the orbea website and the pinarello website and the cervelo website to see who sells those brands.They are high end and don't demand exclusivity from dealers. Any shop that carries one of those will be good.
>>2031752ezi-out https://www.totaltools.com.au/6816-sutton-no-1-no-6-screw-extractor-set-easy-out-6pc-m603s15a>>2031831nicewould very much like to take muh roadie out bikepacking but yeah tailfin prices are a no go from me dog
for 35mm tire32mm external / 28mm internal rimsor28mm external / 23mm internal rims?
>>2031922the former
I'm trying to true my 26" rim brake wheels. While the rim seems to be getting true, the wheels don't seem to be spinning evenly. It's as if the tyre wasn't sitting on the bead evenly. Can that really be a thing and do I need to correct it?
>>2031958You should remove the tire so that you can adjust up and down trueness, it also makes the whole thing visually easier. also yeah, bead not seating correctly on the hook of a rim is very common. It's because the tire is out of spec, or, the rim is damaged, or just bad install or just bad luck. You can usually fix just by installing it again carefully. It's possible to muscle the bead onto the hook. If that doesn't work then get some hot water + dish soap and soap up the bead. Also inflating it above to / above the rec pressure can get it to pop on.
>>2031958>>2031977I’ve had this recently with 700c vintage wheels. The wheel is true and the hubs spin great but I can’t get the tyres to sit right. I replaced the rim trape and went round with a scalpel (thinking that would matter somehow), tried wired/folding and 23mm/25mm. The only thing (in combination with the others) was using a 25-32mm inner tube, soapy water and not using a tyre lever. Now the variation is down to 2mm.
>>2031958if the rim is true you're good. you can reseat the tire, but unless it's so crooked that it's affecting your riding experience i wouldn't bother.
>>2031980Why no tyre lever?
>>2031991I’m using Mavic CXP30s with a 14mm inner so I’m on the limit with a 25mm tyre. It’s easier to keep the tube on the inside of the tyre if pushing by hand. A lever can sometimes pinch it.
hey guys, can you guys simplify the whole "bike geometry" as best as possible? I simply just don't understand it.I bought my first bike (cheap china bike) and I enjoy it a bit so far. but I always feel like something is off/could be better with adjustment when I ride itthis is the bike
>>2032004Helping someone you can't see, who doesn't know the words, through words alone, is not going to work very well. Try to do your best at getting used to new words and reading about bike stuff so that others can help you, because "off" doesn't mean anything actionable to anyone
>>2032004Ride bike take note of geometry and purposeride more bikes and take not of geo+purposeDecide what you want to tryride more bikeOh I like (x) geo and bike, then figure out if it's the geo, material, or something else.Bullshitting about numbers without trying out the bikes won't get you anywhere. You need to experience it, and that should only be done when it makes sense.So just ride your bike and don't worry about it. You can adjust things on the bike right now to see how that impacts your riding as well.>>2031958As others said remove the tire+tube, true wheel, ride, and see how it is.Some vertical and side to side is NBD if it's not touching the frame anywhere.>>203192228mm internal is the biggest I would go, and I would think towards larger tires in the future. A 23mm internal would probably be fine down to 28mm tire.If you run high pressure smaller internals are fine, they just lead to a smaller overall diameter of said tire.
why is it so hard to pedal standing up (not sitting on the seat)? its so awkardam I missing something? am I retarded? mtb and 220lb
>>2032012be 60kg and it'll be easier, also you probably just don't think you're balanced enough when 'swinging' the bike to pedal while standing, if you're climbing up a hill its just a matter of body weight in my opinion
>>2032015I have ran quite a bit (probly have a 100 5k), and I dont get the physics, why does pedalling standing on straight ground it feel 3 times as hard as running uphill wtf
>>2032017my only other advice other than adding drop bars if you don't have them is to learn to maintain a cadence on lower gear and ramping, how I think of it is relaxing your leg on the upstroke and hitting the resistance wall on your downstroke
any recommendations for bike computers that are basically just a secondary screen for your phone? i just want to be able to use my phone's navigation and such without putting the phone directly on the bike and safely keeping it in my pocket/bags instead. the only thing that seems to come close is the beeline velo 2, but it's a bit overpriced and gimmicky.
>>2032017I am the same weight as you, but with a weightlifting and cycling background. I stand great on bikes with rigid front forks, and road tires. The key is I get a medium gear and "bounce" by using my calves. This is for a medium to easy slope/hill.For a serious hill or one I can't shift into a lower gear I swing the bike side to side and "stomp" down using my hips and quads. I can get some decent pec,bicep, and lat activation this way but can't go long before my heart rate gets too high.That's really the issue with heavier riders standing. Go too hard and your heart rate gets way too high. Go too easy on the gear and you aren't going anywhere.As the other anon said you want no force/resistance on the upstroke and a big smash when going down.
>>2032005>>2032006thanks for the advice. I went to the bike store to try out a few models. they don't allow test ride so I just sit and try to feel the bike. some bike despite having same material (alu 6061) and identical specs actually have a very drastic and different feeling in comparison to my bike? there's a bike 3x the price of my bike ($400) and not having much expensive components specified but it just feels super robust, super safe to sit on while my bike feels clumsy. what factor can contribute to this feeling, bros?
I actually found and bought a deerhead RD. Why are these things always scuffed up? How do I go about restoring the iconic logo (paint, prep, etc.)?
explain why the cables in the lower image are better without using slurs or insults
>>2032047More aero.Also the cables can get used to alter the profile of the handlebars and making it more comfortable.Oh and less chances to get caught up somewhere.Looks cooler too
>>2032047longer housing with more bends in it creates more friction. this affects the shifting, although with modern housing the friction is a lot less. but may as well optimize it.the ones in your pic look like they could snag something pretty easily.
>>2032047if you crash its less likely the sheath would get damaged
>>2032047they're orange!
>>2031861>>2031863i tried and it did not work.same for epoxy. Gotta bite the bullet and drill the thing out. Lets hope the plastic assembly survives this.
>>2032068You could also try to cut in a slot with a dremel and use a flathead to screw it out.You could damage the part around it but oh well.
>>2032070cutting a slot was already suggested. A dremel sounds like it would fit but i don't have one. The screw is in a plastic part and i would like to put as little stress on it as possible but im out of options and i have a better bike that i could use in backup. Just gotta fix that one too...
>>2032047The only inconvenience is if you want to run a bar bag which you don’t need 99% of the time.
>>2032071there are screw extractorsthere is welding a little bolt to itthere is spraying shit on it and leaving it overnightthe fucking rubber band trick that was suggested, hahahaif we are talking about a simple bolt, lets say 10mmyou just weld another 10mm bolt to the head of the other boltif its a head with internal hex, you could hammer the hex bit insideseeing as you are extremely inept, I dont see how you will drill it out without damaging the thread
>>2032077and yeah, most hardware is an alloy to resist rust, so you must use specific solder...if u gonna drill it out, make sure you are as center as possible, so you can tap it later if needed, but even if you fuck it, you can just go a size larger (from M10 to M12 for example) heliocoil n shit is also a thing
>>2032053i dont think the housing is much shorter its just under tape and the bends are tighter
>>2032083eh, if you don't notice a performance difference then you can make your cables look like a mental patient set them up I guess. I'd still worry they'd flop around like that and it would be worth it to me that they looked nice. my microshift don't route under the bar tape, so with the housing just long enough to turn the bars I get the shortest routing that way. so, not all bent up under the tape, and but not all long and twisting every which way, either. your picture didn't show this middle ground option.
>>2032045They are ancient and came on offroad bikes... which get scratched up.
>>2032045actually post it mani have one of those, they're pretty cool, i like the road stuff from that era too. reality is though that slightly newer indexed stuff, like the XT II or tricolour mechs are common and work better and usually look better. You're gonna want a pretty fancy (slack) vintage frame to put that on and a TA triple or something else fancy like that.
