So with the recent events maybe the general will stop dying before hitting even 100 posts

>our system thinks this is spam
kys

Might I beg some good 3d printing telegram channels?

I was thinking of printing some tokens for broken weapons and armor for flesh and blood. Would it just be as easy as doing the text function on a flat cylinder with a boolean and maybe modeling a bevel thing somehow, and just printing them? What other kind of plastic tokens should I make for FaB or MtG?

>>92485775
Threads are sunk if they last longer than a week now. Since filefags have moved to a more secure home, and you dont get upvotes for your posts, there is less posters here to keep the thread hitting the bump limit.
>>92485903
>Type "STL" is search bar
>???
>PROFIT
>>92486726
Yes that would work, very basic though.
>FaB
Wut?

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After a year of being a lazy bum I'm back at it making a dwarf army.

>>92487451
>>FaB
>Wut?
Flesh and blood

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DM Stash Shill here. Last post here in case you missed it >>92367500

Get your votes in for the model you want for our anniversary release. Since it's our birthday I'll give you guys the top 2 models this time. I'll post the downloads next thread.

https://strawpoll.com/3RnYlGvQJye


Also not going to post the link here for shilling rules but we're doing a giveaway for our 3 Year Anniversary on our website for 2 Creality printers if any of you want to enter.

Best unbiased reviewer for 3D printers?
Need a resin printer to print 40k stuff

I kinda wanna kitbash stuff but don't wanna really have to be filing resin if I don't have to. Any way to like, take parts off in a slicer so that I can just print what I need and not waste any?

>>92489740
Is this 35 or 75mm?

>>92490091
He doesnt do resin stuff too often, but mytechfun has great reviews and methodology. Sadly hes just about the only 3d printing youtuber I know of who doesn't reek of shilling

>>92490269
Yes, prusa slicer and lychee both have the ability to split a grouped object into its component parts. Quite often mini stls are a bunch of parts, though not always. If splitting doesn't work, both the aforementioned slicers also have good cutting functions. Meshmixer is also useful for cleaning up.

>>92490091
Any modern resin printer is good enough for 40k stuff.
Just look for pixel sizes under 0.04mm and a build plate that is big enough for the stuff you want to print, aka elegoo mars size is enough for most stuff but landraiders and titans are better on something Saturn sized.

>>92490091
Get the latest Elegoo Mars (the smaller ones cause they're easier to operate imo) and add a larger one if it's your thing since it's a very messy, time-consuming and space-consuming hobby within the hobby. (otherwise just pay someone else to print it / buy off etsy or whatever)
Avoid Anycubic. Their non-resin printers are fine but their resin have dodgy quality and the worst customer support this side of China.

Usually good threads will have recommendations.
I don't have room for a fucking 3D printer.
What's the cheapest smallest printer I could get to do DnD/Battletech minis?

>>92495971
What's the cheapest smallest printer I could get to do DnD/Battletech minis?

A refurbished elegoo mars. Small enough to sit on your bathroom windowsill, prints fine.

Try to get at least a mars 3 if you want crisp details and don't take mars 1, they had color screens that took more than twice as long to print

>>92495971
For minis you want resin and that takes up space for the cleanup, airflow and accessories.

>>92495971
As mentioned by other anons, you need to factor the space requirements of not just the printer but the washing and curing stuff you use. And also the cost; you can get away with using some jars filled with IPA to clean prints and then putting them in a clear container and setting out in the sun to cure on the extreme low cost end, or buy a wash and cure station for more convenience and more money. Either way, dont disregard the clean and cure steps when budgeting money and space

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Last thread died. Autistic coomer figurines, ~5 inches, Mars 4 9k, SunLu ABSlike/Toughness 1:1 blend for flexibility. I'll post actual minis I've been doing with the same setup later after work.

>>92500115
Who made them?

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This is the last thing I bought, and the last thing I will buy, from Games Workshop.
Can anyone point me towards STL support for Rogue Trader? Thanks anons, means a lot

>>92500276
General Buta is the sculptor

>>92500653
Probably exists since most GW does but dunno where.

>>92500885
>dunno where.
Yeah the problem I'm having is actually finding it, God-Emperor knows I've seen it before.

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>>92500115
>I'll post actual minis
Please do. This general is about tabletop gaming, not your mental illness.

>>92495971
>Recommend a 3D printer that I don't have room for
Speaking of mental illness. I recommend you seek professional help.

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>>92501504
Done. This one's from yesterday. Now do yours.

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>>92503197
So demanding. Not even a please. How rude.

>>92506026
Stationforge?

Honest opinion: I got my hand for on a Mars, first gen, never used still in the box, for basically free. Of course results are not going to be the same as if I had the latest model freshly out of the stores, but considering that I'm a more-or-less average hobbyist, am I even going to notice that in the meantime the tech jumped onward a few generations, 4Kwhatever and whatnot?

We're talking 28/32ish minis.

>>92508213
I had a mars 1, and it was not that bad quality wise.
Did elegoo enable Anti-alias with those? Can't remember. That helps a lot with the resolution.

The only bad thing about that machine is that it has a color screen. That means it needs way longer curing times for each layer, so prints for 28mm miniatures will sometimes take more than a day, and those longer curing times are hard on the hardware. But you can swap the screen to a mono one and that fixes that.

Oh, and those first models had a gap between the screen and the housing where resin could get in, so put a bit of tape around the screen.

If you take the time to print in 0.025mm layers with anti alias it will probably be a great little machine for 28mm models, but using washes can sometimes still gather in the layer lines.

>>92508213
1st thing is buy a mono screen for it from chitu. 2k printers are fine once you dial in the settings.

with the news that space marines now have pussys and tits, I guess this thread is my new home. hello bros

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m'khand industries malcador next to the plastic kit

Not sure if my tism can cope with this

>>92509076
Welcome

>>92509178
My tism can't handle that the slope on the left side does not meet the circle as a tangent. Why?

>>92508352
>>92508354

Thank you guys.

I dunno about going upgrading stuff, honestly.
I was thinking about fiddling with it to get the hang of resin printing, and if that's something of my liking, buy something better (maybe one, two gens back if I'm feeling stingy) down the line instead of trying to update a four year old machine so that it somewhat keeps up.
But yeah, cutting printing times to 1/4 might be useful even if I end up keeping this one as a second backup printer.

Guess I'll see, and then report back.

>>92509286
if you can 3d print you can replace a screen. screen replacement is easy and many videos on joutube show you how.

>>92509076
a few threads ago we all agreed this thread needs another mentally ill faggot so welcome aboard

>>92509693
It isn’t a matter of difficulty, it is a matter of money. If i have to put 50$ on a LCD that would make my pretty obsolete machine a little less so, those could have been 50$ put towards an entirely new and much less obsolete model

>>92510071
>mentally ill
>faggot
apologies for the redundancy
>>92510149
it comes down to to how much and how fast you want to print. the mono also is a few microns higher in resolution. i thought i read you got it for "basically free" so $50 spent on something you swapped drugs for is nothing really.

Anything better than saturn 4 ultra in current gen?

Hey guys, what kind of printer you recomend for vehicles?

>>92511006
Saturn size printers should be handle just anything, though most vehicle stl packs are cut up to fit the more standard mars size printers if necessary. Even if they aren't, you can always do it yourself if you want to save money on a printer.

Im hesitant to ask, but is anyone aware if scans of North Star Military stuff exists? Ive spent a fair bit sniffing around purplesite and troonygram with no success. Dont need to be spoonfed, just wish to know if that shits even out there somewhere

>>92509178
None of the M'khand stuff is accurate. Try SolutionLSN.

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Well, it took a lot of trial and error and fucking around with the model in blender, but I have finally ended up with a version of this mini with enough detail to be worth painting.

>>92490091
I would use a used Elegoo Mars. They're cheap, work pretty great, and parts are easily found. I have a used mars 2 (lightly, it was a return, I'm not entirely sure it was really ever used to begin with.) that I've printed shitloads of stuff on, and it's worked great.

>>92511006
What size? Anything Elegoo should work fine.

>>92513011
nice

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>>92485400
Big boi Magnus

Anyone know where I can get 40k model scans? I know they're for free out there somewhere.

My 3D print have some very tiny holes on it? Can it be fixed with Epoxy Putty?

>>92519547
Is there anything that putty couldn't fix?

>>92519756
i mean very very tiny hole on my 75mm mini, i heard somewhere you could mixed the putty with IPA to become some kind of liquid putty, right?

>>92519527
>free
ok james.
>>92519547
>>92519799
you could putty or just dribble some of the same resin in the hole and use a uv torch to cure it. you can get uv torches from changland for a few bucks, just make sure they are in the 395-405 spectrum.

Printing a warhound lads, wish me luck

>>92519527
Look up "STL" in telegram

>>92513011
noice

>>92521037
Good luck!

For the record I glanced through the guides first, but it looks like the majority of the focus is the printing itself, not the final product.

I don't 3D print myself, but a member of my gaming group helped me to take one of my pipe dream terrain ideas and make it a reality. It looks solid, but it's not resin so has the ridges that early 3d printing is known for. To make it not obviously a 3D print, before I resort to 30+ hours of manual sanding, is there a primer product that does a good job of hiding the ridges from 3D printjob that is usually suggested? I know about stuff like Mr. Surfacer 500 which might do the job. The design itself is pretty basic so I don't really have to worry about losing ultra fine details, but if my terrain could look less corrugated that'd be ideal.

>>92521703
automotive body filler spray, you'll still need to sand it after, but you're sanding the semi-set foam instead of the gummy FDM plastic, so it goes faster, and if you don't mind losing details, you barely need to sand at all.

>>92521703
Many of us use left over uv resin on the rough fdm parts, thicken it a bit with baby powder and just brush it on.

>>92521256
Cheers lad.

Printed the feet today. Legs tonight maybe. Detail didnt come out super crisp on some of them but I'm going to destroy this thing with weathering and conversions so shouldn't be a problem. Will get pics for the thread asap. Anyone else print a titan before? Anyone got advice?

>>92521790
That sounds like it'd be the ticket, thanks for the suggestion. Do you generally need to prime over body filler spray, or does it act as a primer itself?

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>>92521862
i primed over it on my helmet build, but that had a LOT of sanding included since i was going for a smooth gloss finish.

>>92521924
Very cool

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>>92521970
found some better pictures where you can actually see the filler, its the lighter grey, the dark grey was primer spray in an attempt to stop me from sanding all the way back to the orange plastic, didn't work.
but you can see in the red picture that while the layer lines are gone, you can still see a lot of imperfections in places i didn't sand, like the cheek and under the eye, so primer filler isn't a magic smooth tool, but its a real good start.

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Fuck me those backpacks are a ton of work

>>92516729
Cool

>>92521986
As someone who also does cosplay, I know full well the madness of perfection.

"Wow anon, that helmet you made is really cool!"
"NO, ITS SHIT"
"What, why?"
"THERE'S A BUBBLE IN THE TINT ON THIS FACEPLATE VISOR, I HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN"
"I mean... do you? It's barely not-"
"YES"

>>92521924
>>92521986
Thanks for the follow-up post as well! Yeah in the first pic the orange really overpowers the detail so it's harder to tell, but it does look like your suggestion should be the right route. I'm working at a much smaller scale but with some flat surfaces. Still, there are some areas that I doubt I'd be able to get even jewelers files into, so this should prove helpful.

>>92522228
NTA, but if you have very small holes to fill in you might also use caulk, like cheap quickseal. You just wet your fingers, smooth a dab of it over the gaps or holes, and wipe away the excess and let it dry. Sometimes you have to do a second layer because the caulk can shrink a bit as it dries, but its very easy to do, requires no sanding, and costs a couple bucks in materials which last forever. I've been using caulk instead of greenstuff for filling in gaps on models for years.

>>92522051
It's funny because when you use actual equipment. It's riddled with that kinda crap. Like they know it's just superficial as it's going to go through he'll anyway.

>>92522051
yeah, but the helmet wasn't for cosplay, it was a display piece for my brother, i ended up calling it good enough and jammed some LEDs and green plastic into the eyes so it glows, then gave it a satin varnish to hide the weird wobble on the top since when it was gloss it really stood out.

>>92516729
>Not big mommy Magnus
I sleep.

Who makes sculpts of female custodes? I want to get the jump at my local shop and show up with an army.

>>92512501
I havr yet to find anything under that name by I'll keep trying.

Thanks man

So I live in a very tight living situation.
If I want to make minis I have to have it by a window? I live in Louisiana where the heat is always super crazy high and opening a window would mean hundreds of dollars in A/C costs.
What do I do?

>>92498325
Well this scared me off of 3d printing.
I'll just buy models.

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>>92525906
How much space and room and cost will the cleaning and stuff take for this?
I'm really questioning if I should even bother.

>>92525882
Sorry bro, I spelt it wrong it's SolutionLESN, I missed the E.
https://cults3d.com/en/users/Solutionlesn/3d-models
He took down a bunch of his stuff because of copywrite, but it's all available on boosty and telegram has all his stuff in a multi part zip as well.

>>92525906
>>92526008

I'll give it to your straight: you want space to do this. That space does NOT have to be inside, but it does take at least a table or more worth of space.

Between the printer, the wash and cure station, the resin, and various bits and bobs? You should expect about $400-500 between you and having a functional printing setup. Cutting corners will not just result in bigger messes, but potential health hazards.

If you can have your printer set up outside, even on just a porch or patio if you live in an apartment, that will be much better for you than doing it anywhere inside. Think of the resin fumes like spray paint fumes: it won't smell good, and while brief exposure now and again likely won't do much harm living in constant exposure to fumes like that in your home is going to do damage over time you don't want to risk.
The big advantage, while also the risk, of doing your printing outside is that resin cures in UV, and the sun is a free source of UV. Even wiping things down with IPA, you've still just a thin amount of resin residue all over things like your build plate, scraper, gloves, work mat, etc. Letting those sit in the sun for a few hours during the day is a free way to render all of that harmless again, whereas those can remain toxic for days if left inside in indirect light. The flip side of this is that if you don't have someplace out of the sun to work, you can end up accidentally curing some stuff you didn't mean to and ruining a print.

Personally what I do is print and do most of my work inside of a utility closet on my apartment's patio, and then setting things on a work table out in the sun to decontaminate for free after.

I hope that advice helps. I'm happy to answer any more specific questions you have or brainstorm setup ideas for you, but as someone who had to set up all of this recently and get it working from zero thats my experience.

>>92489740
that centipede is a better Leto 2 than we will get in the next dunc movie.

>>92526620
Not the same guy but curious about the "outside part.
I have a worn-out shack in my garden, it's in stone but windows are broken and stuff so the inside is protected from wind and rain but the temperature will be the same as outside, and it'll get dusty.
Are 3D printer the sort of machine you can use in that type of environment or is it some fine machinery that need no dust and no swing in temperature?

>>92528686
Resin needs a temperature range to work properly. 20C is ideal, but you can print all the way down to 15C without issues (resin dependent). You want to try and keep dust out of the machine and the resin, but it's not catastrophic. More important is keeping the sun off of your setup.
The main reason people print outside is for ventilation, but it's always a compromise. All other conditions should ideally be as if it was inside.

>>92509286
changing a screen is standard maintenance.

>>92528686
That should be fine, with a few caveats.

Dust getting into the resin or building up on the lcd screen would logically cause problems eventually, but 3d printers come with that plastic enclosure you put over the machine (the red bit in pic related >>92526008) that should keep dust out just fine.

Temperature IS a concern for any outdoor printing, as if the resin is too cold and you will get failed prints. But thats a solvable problem and a necessary fix for anyone who wants to do printing outside, as the weather rarely stays a consistent 65 degrees F at all hours of the day. There are tiny space heaters that you can put inside the printer enclosure which heat the space, or for a bit cheaper fermentation belts that you can wrap around just the resin vat itself that put out a consistent and safe 70 degrees F. In your situation, if the added price isn't a concern I would go for the tiny heater if you can find one that fits your printer, because one of the downsides of the fermentation belt approach is that you can't close the capsule all the way (its not designed for the belt and its power cord) which in your case might increase dust exposure.

Make sure you also have table space to set up a silicone work mat (or better yet, one meant for dog feeding trays so it has a lip on it to catch spills) as you'll want a place where you can take minis off of the build plate and clean up easily afterwards. You can put stuff outside to cure in the sun after its mostly cleaned up, but you basically always want to make sure that liquid resin is only ever getting handled on the mat or in a bottle.

Also, you want a proper curing station of some kind. You technically could cure a mini by leaving it in the sun, but thats extremely impercise and you don't want to cure your resin more than you NEED to because over-cured resin gets brittle. Sunlight is a good way to render waste material inert so you can throw it away safely, but not anything you care about.

>>92500653
I have that PDF, that book is great.
I just wish I could get a version that was straight and not scanned from an open book. The edges of the pages are squished more often than not.

>hurr durr he wants someone to cut open his book

Yeah, yeah I do.

>>92528860
>>92528911
Thanks!
From what I understand the biggest problem will be heat, so I might have to look for a space heater or just wait for warmer days before buying a printer and curing station.
(And probably try to fix the windows and some holes in the shack to help the heater)

>>92526620
different anon, /diy/ told me not to have this running outside, though no one there elaborate why beyond "common sense".
would the extreme Texas heat it cause alignment issues? reduce the lifetime of the machine?

>>92529171
Can't say, thats outside of my expertise. But I would guess that the two things they would have been worried about are weather and sunlight.

The plastic enclosure is tinted to reduce UV, but its not opaque. It won't *eliminate* UV from sunlight, just reduce it. So that will do funky things to your resin as it is printing. But that can be solved by something as simple as putting a cardboard box over it while it prints.

And obviously things like wind and rain you would want to cut down on, it is still an electronic device. But some basic protective shelter, or even just bringing it somewhere inside when not in use (cleaned, of course) would be fine.

>>92529107
You actually don't even need to fix the holes. I don't mean a normal space heater, I mean something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Youyoute-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Printers/dp/B0BL6WZPM9

A heater that fits *inside* your printer enclosure, so it only needs to heat the air and the resin inside, and the rest of your shack doesn't matter. Just let it run for a bit to warm things up before printing and you should be good to go.

I only found out these existed after I already invested in a fermentation belt, so I can't personally vouch for them, but they do seem like the ideal solution to the problem. Perhaps someone else has direct experience with a product like this.

Any good STLs of like mongolian light cavalry that aren't stupid poses like rearing up that are fucking shit in all varieties? I don't even know what to do for cavalry miniatures anymore. I don't want to assemble sprues. I just want 28mm cavalry for less than 3 dollars a mini so I can have my players fight mongol cavalry when they're traveling through their territory. Meanwhile reaper wants like 10 bucks a mini. Fuck off.

So I hate to be a begfag but if you could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.

>>92530006
How about these?

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/mongol-archer-light-cavalry

Not free, but you pay once and print as many as you want.

>>92530163
That's tempting. 14 bucks is a bit, but it's high quality so I wouldn't mind. Heroforge STLs are like 7 bucks and while heroforge is goyslop it's hard to justify paying more than that for an STL I can customize.

I got a cheap creality printer and is trial and error par for the course when trying new resins? I'm looking at settings for the same resin but a different printer, but I don't think it's universal for mine. Should I have gotten a different printer with better support?

>>92531611
Not sure where you are finding settings, but you can look up community profiles for printer/resin combinations in lychee slicer. Just go to 'add new resin' and you should be able to search and filter by info.

Lychee isn't the best at actually slicing, but it does have some good features like that and the magic button.

What is the current achievable quality with average 3d printers? Can one get a mini that looks like, say, a KDM one?

>>92529171
It might cause premature failure of the print screen.

>>92533343
With contemporary printers at the moment, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between a print and molded plastic without a magnifying glass or very specifically angled light. Any of the ridges or layer lines will be hidden by the primer when painting.

>>92533609
That sounds impressive. Is it possible to find the models of such games online to print them? I know few people with a printer and that would be neat.

>3d printers
I got one of these shitty things for work. Absolutely hate the thing.

>>92533657
There are scans of old models, there are near perfect recreations of new models, but most stuff is just marginally accurate facsimiles. For example, most of the marines (not primaris) you find either aren't correctly proportioned with the actual models or are true scale versions. On the other hand, 6 months after you start printing, you'll start seeing stuff and thinking "that's a cool proxy" and eventually you'll ignore the on model stuff and start going after all the cool proxy models. A good example is Nfeyma on cults, his guard vehicle proxies frankly look better than anything GW makes.

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Anybody elese gets super anxiously after working with cured resin prints? I mean, I wear gloves and facemask but I'm still washing my hands with ipa and soapy water few times after work because I still feel like theres some dust, residue or shavings left that can contaminate either me or my surrounding somewhere.

>>92534964
Is not something to be super paranoid about. If it's an issue for you, try wet sanding or cleaning imperfections in a bowl of water.

>>92535732
>cleaning imperfections in a bowl of water.
Did that once but then I was almost freaking out what to do with that water since it has resin particles in it.

>>92536022
Filter it.

>>92536022
Caution is good, but just remember this simple fact: resin is inert and safe once fully cured. Contaminated water, left out in the sun, becomes harmless.

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>>92485400
Hello, I'm thinking about getting a used green elegoo mars 2 as my first printer. Can I print quality 3rd party warhammer minis with it? Specifically these ones.

>>92536290
Micro plastics are still a thing, so still a good idea to filter it.

>>92536337
Yes, be aware those are scaled to 32mm and they don't rank up very well.

>>92526008
Basically you need a detached garage or shed. It's not so much a space thing as having a dedicated space for ventilation and safety. It has to be a dark room when cleaning the model and you can't allow any children or pets ANYWHERE NEAR THE MACHINE and the resin is toxic as fuck and you need massive ventilation and gloves and goggles to clean the machine and parts. Basically resin printing is something only professional artists and engineers should do, but everybody will attack me and say otherwise, but trust me when I say that all light sensitive resins are deadly poisonous and can easily blind you and cause massive health problems with your lungs and you can develop a sensitivity to the chemicals even if you don't start out with them, so until they develop a truly non-toxic resin it's not something the vast majority of people should even consider. It's simply not safe. FDM printing is different. It has risks, but resin printing is insanely dangerous. Imagine a drop in your eye and blind forever kind of shit because that's what we're talking about. The cleaning process requires isopropyl alcohol, a soft toothbrush and a large bucket with a trash bag, goggles, a special mask, and nitrile gloves you have to change constantly. Anything that gets resin on it (and it gets everywhere) has to be exposed to sunlight to harden and become safe again after cleaning with alcohol. I print maybe 5 times a year and use matter hackers mh build resin which is epoxy free and I still wouldn't recommend it to most people. Maybe a science lab, but ordinary people, nope.

>>92536337
yeah it'll do fine, but you might want to get a new resin tank for it because changing the FEP film is difficult for beginners and being used that's likely the most used part, but also the light and screen of the machine fades if it's been used a lot, so unless you are getting a major discount a new 3d print is better anyway and might be worth the wait to save up for. It just depends on how often it was used and how well cared for. Either way you can buy a new tank with the FEP film already installed, just make sure you get one that fits that particular model since the size varies. But also look at this post I made. Resin printing is not nearly as safe as people want you to think. >>92537117 So consider whether you actually want to start doing it or not before making the investment. A LOT of people find out they can't be around the chemicals after they start and it should NEVER be done around children or animals or other family members or neighbors.

>>92537117
Is handling resin models that we're not done properly dangerous too?
Isopropyl alcohol is used for many things (like removing paints from old minis), I think most people could do that step correctly.

>>92537180
Damn, I want to paint miniatures mostly but a set costs more then the 3d printer does, I don't even have a seperate space to print though I was planning on doing it in my room. Is it really that dangerous? I figured that with the air purifier in the thing and gloves+a mask it should be safe enough to handle before I was it in a plastic tub with the alcohol then chuck it into a homemade curing station.

>>92537255
>>92537180
My grandma has a spare room actually, it's not in use since my grandpa died, do you think I could set things up there? It's a pretty dark room but the only window it has opens up to a covered veranda with a greenhouse roof.

>>92526019
Please stop helping James find our shit. Thanks.
>>92537764
Sounds perfect. Just make sure you can vent fumes directly outside so you don't gas your nana.

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>>92526019
I just downloaded telegram, is there something I have to join? I searched for STL but I don’t see anything. I’m not James, I don’t know how to prove it to you, other than this unikhorne I printed. I just got a 3d printer a couple weeks back and wanna get all of the models I need for my armies. I appreciate you gents.

>>92537847
>Just make sure you can vent fumes directly outside so you don't gas your nana.
I could set up a ventillator and leave the veranda door open, that should probably be fine right?
Also, can I use the space as the room I also paint the minis in? Maybe have a seperate table for the printing and the painting or is it better to just not use the room for anything but printing. I assume the room should be safe after everything is cured and I vent it but I have no clue.

>>92538293
You'll be fucking fine, just get gloves, glasses and maybe a mask, ventilate after and try not to get resin everywhere. Wipe stuff down with a napkin dipped in alcohol too. Most printers have USB air purifiers now anyways.

>>92538057
There are plenty of channels with STL Links, you just have to search for it. When you do find those STL Links, be sure to read the rules and check the pinned comments.

>>92538057
This model looks so good! Why would you ever use a booring ass rhino when you could print something like this??

>>92525229
>Who makes sculpts of female custodes
Trannys and people with low self respect.

>>92537764
yeah as long as you set up ventilation that runs all the time venting outside it should be good. The room doesn't have to be pitch black, just dark because when you open the printer sunlight cures the resin in the tank and on the models so you want time to clean the models before you sit them outside or they'll have globs that will harden on them. You clean with alcohol and a very soft toothbrush and then rinse with alcohol and repeat a few times and then let it air dry, it has to be completely air dried before sitting in the sun or white spots appear on the model, not a big deal if you are going to paint it, but it's troublesome, after dry you can put in a plastic baggie and sit in the sun inside a foil pie tin to shine light around it and let it finish curing. So what I do is print as the sun is going down and clean the part before the sun comes up. That gives me a lot of time to work with the model cleaning it and everything before any strong light gets on it. And I keep the lid on the printer and the box it came in to protect the resin from daylight even though the room I use is pretty dark. I still have to open the window and door and such for ventilation so printing at night is the best way.

>>92546148
>yeah as long as you set up ventilation that runs all the time venting outside it should be good
If I open the window and the veranda door and put a ventillator in the window is that sufficient ventillation or do I have to get a whole ventillation unit built?
>You clean with alcohol and a very soft toothbrush and then rinse with alcohol and repeat a few times and then let it air dry
Do I remove the supports before the wash or after the first wash? Also obviously if the weather is good I can put them out in sun, but what if not? Should I get one of those expensive ass curing stations or is buying a UV desk light from amazon good enough?
Also how long does curing take? Can you overcure it?

>>92546258
after all washes then put it in hot water. remove supports then dunk in cold water to reharden. then cure

>>92546258
old /3dpg/ was about lo-tech diy curing. but since reddit found the general its all about wallet warriors flexing their epeens with how much they spent on equipment. i wish i could find the pic of the anon who made his own cure machine by welding 2 steel bowls together and adding a uv light

>>92546444
>wish i could find the pic of the anon who made his own cure machine by welding 2 steel bowls together and adding a uv light
Does it even need to be that complicated? Can't I just put it on a foil pie tin and set a LED UV desk light over it?
Also why do I need to wrap it in plastic wrap before setting it out under the sun/UV? Just an extra step to prevent cantamination?

>>92546548
it be a lo-tech or hi-tech as you want. a lot of anons use a cardboard lined with tinfoil or cheap nail polish machine from china. as long as the uv lights are in the correct range you are golden. obviously some ideas work better than others.

>>92512362
North Star stuff is pretty cheap, and hasn't high demand therefore. People that do scans seem to focus on either OOP GW stuff, or the newest released GW stuff.

>>92546593
I'll probably sun dry it if I can and I'll get a UV desk light and the tinfoil tray as a back up.
What range should it be? Depends on the resin or is there a universal range?

>>92546602
>>92546593
>>92546548
Wow wtf? UV nailbeds are super fucking cheap! What's the catch?

>>92546669
There is no catch, besides its size.

>>92546684
I could just fill a bin with foil and put the nail bed on top no?

>>92546602
check and make sure 405nm is mentioned in the uv range. if it says 395nm (which in reality are 365nm) or lower avoid it
>>92546720
yes. results may vary depending how far from the light your prints are

>>92546735
Thanks I will, do 405nm UV lights work for every type of UV resin?

>>92546764
>>92546735
Most of them only have W they don't have nm listed anywhere.

>>92546764
the accepted standard of wavelength to cure photopolymer resin is 405nm and is what wavelength 3d printers use. there maybe resins out there that claim otherwise but i would not buy them. uv lights that operate in the 395-415nm spectrum is what to look for.

>>92546974
Okay, most UV lights don't have the wavelength listed online so it's safe to assume those are no good the right? I might end uo shilling out for a good used elegoo mercury v2.
If anyone knows a cheaper one I can just buy then please do reccomend.
Or if I find a 405nm UV desk light I might go with the foil pie tin method.

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>>92526008
>>92537117
I have some cash laying around and want to get into printing but now iv convinced myself im going to instantly die or kill my cat with the fumes.

>>92547029
Get a seperate space like a shed or something, keep it locked when not in use and you should be fine if you ventilate and use and air purifier and safety gear.

>>92546258
It's not going to kill you if you get a whiff and you should be using a respirator anyway. You want ventilation to stop the fumes concentrating or spreading to other parts of your living area. An extraction fan above the printer, ducted outside, is enough.

>>92547241
>An extraction fan above the printer, ducted outside, is enough.
So the fan in the window is not enough I need to set up a whole extraction fan with some pvc pipes or something?

>>92547368
>>92547241
Also do I need the respirator if I have the air purifier?

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>>92547009
Yes if they dont mention wavelength chances are they are hoping you dont know shit and will buy it. pic related is pretty much my set up and 17 bux on bezos website
>>92547368
if you put the printer in front of the window and the fan on the outside pointing away and sat on highest setting should be fine. and yes you need both fan and resparator especially once the print is over and you lift the lid to do post print work.

>>92547442
Jesus christ this is gonna take more money then I thought...
I'll shill out the 30 bucks for the extraction fan with the tube... and also the get a respirator.

>>92547458
influencers tell you you can print a mini for a few bucks but dont tell you about the startup costs.. once you get the startup costs out of the way the cost of consumables ongoing is low and you will start to see a return on your investment. this is why no one here will recommend people on youtube to watch and if they do its probably that person begging for views

>>92547481
So I'll need
>3d printer
>curing station or 405nm UV light and tin foil pie trays
>resin
>USB air purifier
>extraction fan kit with the plastic tube
>respirator
>protective glasses
>bunch of rubber gloves
>big ass try under the printer to catch shit
>big plastic vat
>isopropyl alcohol
Am I missing anything? This is already like 4-500 bucks worth of shit + I'm gonna have to somehow install the fan too.
This is just for 3d printing too, the paints I need and the tools to paint and model is almost another 100 bucks.

>>92547565
fuck off the extractor and purifier as long as you are in a well ventilated area and can direct fumes out the window with a fan you'll be fine. you'll need paper towels for clean ups.

>>92547574
I'm in a room that has a window that opens to a covered veranda so not really well ventilated. DonI need the extractor if I get the purifier and the respirator? Cause setting that up seems like a pain in my ass.

>>92547664
just get two fans.. one for near the door and the one outside window. resperator need regardless. you could test the effectiveness of air flow by putting a small bit of resin out while the fans are running

>>92547692
Can I run just regular fans you would get for your room or do I need big ones? Cause if the latter I'm probably better off setting up the extractor.

>>92547732
just the pedastal fans from kmart will do

>>92547740
I'll get a cheap extractor and have my dad help install it I think, there's one that comes with the tube attached that is the same price as two standing fans.

>>92547368
The point is to create avoid the fumes from spreading away from the printer. A fan by the window would help if it can evacuate the whole room, but it's inefficient.
>>92547375
Yes, you need a respirator.

>>92547565
Some of that is just nice to have. The purifier is a luxury, it's not necessary. I don't use eyepro, but if you're worried about it, just use a spare pair of sunglasses. You can avoid using consumable gloves if you use kitchen gloves instead. A tray under your setup is good, but only to make cleanup easier; if you tip a bottle over, nothing will stop it going everywhere.

>>92548090
>>92548044
Ok, no purifier then cause that shit is expensive. There's actually an unused tool shed too I think it will be easier to get a propane heater in there and just get a fan and set the printer up next to the window then to set up a whole ventillation system in grammy's old room. It's also darker and already has some tools so that's an upside.
It's pretty cramped and my grandpa bred and slaughtered rabbits there so it might be haunted, that's a downside.

>>92548902
>that's a downside.

Less than you'd think.

>>92549172
My lizards shall be empowered by animal sacrifice.

>>92549198
>>92549172
>>92548902
>>92548090
I can find a lot of this shit super cheap on AliExpress, I found a 405nm UV for half the price that's on eBay and like a tenth of the amazon price, should I go for it or do you think I'll get scammed with the chinkshit? Although AliExpress has been suprisingly okay quality and a good sport about refunds in my experience so far.

>>92549258
How cheap is cheap? Sometimes its worth spending the extra money for something you'll be using a lot to cut out the hassle.

>>92549285
Like 30bucks for what seems like a solid enough light.
On a very related note are Anycubic printer good? Any of them around elegoo mars 2 quality(aka good enough for warhammer minis)?

So i'm thinking about selling prints as a sidehustle, seeing as there are no resin printer services in my town, and i know for a fact there's a big wargaming/rpg crowd here. How do i get the word out? Flyers at uni/local gaming clubs? I've asked some friends that i've printed a few units for to spread the word, but that's pretty unreliable, only brought in like 4 people so far.

>>92549414
Instagram, facebook groups and marketplace, word of mouth, that's how I plan on doing it anyways.

>>92549414
If you want your service to largely be local, then yeah signs and fliers and word of mouth is likely your best bet.

Possible idea: I'm sure that you have a local game shop if you have wargamers. Reach out to that shop and try and cut a deal with them in terms of promotion in return for printing some stuff for the shop. Or even just print them something cool and donate it to the shop as a display piece. Whatever they are amenable to, since you want a good relationship with them and their clientele.

>>92549476
>>92549494
Good suggestions, however i'd want to avoid paying taxes and don't give a shit about copyright, so advertising at a local business might get me caught.

>>92549716
Either learn blender and make your own stuff or buy a trade license from individual makers like OnePageRules, I doubt it's that expensive. Only sell illegal stuff on request and on the down low.

>>92549898
I wonder if you can get around a lot of this by simply making your service one of 'I print STLs you provide' as opposed to being responsible for the files yourself. As a PRINTING service, its not your concern where the files come from. The customer has an STL they want printed, you print it. End of story. Where the files come from is not your concern any more than a company that prints t-shirts on request cares where your picture came from.

>>92549937
Maybe, but that would cut down on your business massively since most people don't want to buy an expensive STL if they don't have a printer and they only want one of the model, that's where you would come in.

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What do we think of Photon Mono X 6Ks, there's a great deal for it bundled with a wash&cure on AliExpress.
It's 6K so it should be perfectly good for Warhammer models and it seems big enough but please do redpill me on it.

>>92549948
I think you would be surprised. The cost of the STL is usually worth the model as a custom work even if its a one-off, and if you need a group of them it rapidly becomes a better deal. The sort of people that want custom minis have specific, particular tastes and are unwilling to settle for something less, which means they will pay.

>>92549974
Maybe so, you'd still be better of having at least a couple of trade licenses from some more popular modellers so you can sell and advertise ready made stuff, maybe even pre-painted stuff since that's a big market with not a lot of supply too.
Also a bigger market then tabletop minis would probably be little anime coomer statuettes and like buddha/jesus statues that grandmas might like.

>>92549966
It's close in size to the elegoo saturn then the mars and it prints minis just fine, it's slightly more prone to failure then an elegoo but whatever it's cheap as hell. If you can get both the printer and the wash under 400 bucks that's a great fucking deal.

>>92550305
That deal is about 273USD with free shipping.

>>92550324
New? You would be retarded to not go with that deal.

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>>92485400
So yes, I haven't posted here in a while, this time I'll sculpt an updated version of Jayne and Gabs, female warriors from the Rogue Trader, first the references and a fast blockout, no scan sadly.

>>92550361
Yeah new, is the mono x 6ks actually good? I read a couple of reviews about it not being able to print anything at all, although that might be an issue with their software maybe?

>>92550389
if you dont keep the faces the same as the original models you can fuck off

>>92547029
Yeah if you have animals you want a separate room with constant running ventilation system to pipe the air outside and bring in fresh air from the opposite end of the house and a filter for the air going outside, so basically an exhaust fan, pipes or tubes, an adapter for window, wall hole, or screen door etc, and the filter. It's a bitch. Where I have mine it's a special shed that isn't sealed having gaps in the walls and a window and door I can open with security bars over the windows and doors so I can leave them open and I can use a large blower fan so I don't need piping to push the air outside and I still have to use epoxy free resin because I'm deathly allergic to epoxy and a lot of people are, they just don't know it until they start having symptoms weeks or months after their first exposure and animals shouldn't be around it because they can't tell you if they are feeling bad etc. So like a science lab that works with fumes anyway is set up for it, but most houses just aren't and the companies that make these 3d printers are really deceptive not explaining it and all the real dangers, it's basically fraud because they show people using minimal safety equipment or virtually none in the demo videos, but that's just not the reality. This is the only guy I've seen so far that is honest and even he down plays it a bit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNRlslXOgsY
Now FDM printing isn't nearly as bad. It's just not as detailed and has more visible layer lines, but the parts you can make are stronger so like knobs for dresser drawers and things of that size are good to do in FDM printing, minis to paint better to do in SLA resin printing. I'm hoping in a couple years they'll have a truly non toxic resin. Matter Hackers MH Build resin is the closest thing I've found to that so far, but it's just as dangerous, just the fumes are a lot better, but skin and eye contact just as dangerous. But it does smell a lot better.

>>92551195
>constant running ventilation system to pipe the air outside and bring in fresh air from the opposite end of the house and a filter for the air going outside, so basically an exhaust fan, pipes or tubes, an adapter for window, wall hole, or screen door etc, and the filter.
That's crazy talk, seperate room and some ventilation for sure, but you can just put the printer near an open window and have a fan behind it pointed outside, you don't need all that crazy stuff as long as you have proper safety equipment like a gloves, safety glasses and a respirator.

How can I tell precisely what material was used to make a model? I would like to know if the random mini I bought off of ebay is made of some kind of horrible carcinogen before working on it.

>>92547565
you don't need the curing station or uv light, sunlight and pie tin works fine. It's good to have some spray bottles for the alcohol. Much easier to clean the parts with a spray bottle. Most 3d printers come with a plastic scraper and a metal scraper, you use the metal scraper on the metal build plate and the plastic or silicone scraper for the clear plastic FEP film in the resin tray. Occasionally you have to replace the FEP film but it'll usually come with a couple of those. Hex wrenches for changing the film, usually comes with those, etc. But yeah the start up cost is around $500 dollars for resin printing sometimes more depending on how you work out the ventilation system and what kind of respirator. If you don't have paints and all that just focus on painting for now fren. You might not even like painting once you get into it. A lot of people find it frustrating. Get a cheap starter set of paints and a couple of decent brushes and a set of cheap plastic figures from like reaper minis on amazon and a can of primer spray for miniatures and just learn to paint first. Cheap models to paint are way cheaper than games workshop shit would lead you to believe.

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>>92547732
I like to use blower type fans because they are really strong and you won't knock them over and they usually have an extra plug port.

>>92549372
cure light, cheap, just make sure you NEVER turn it on unless it's inside the box you make for it and covered, because the light is invisible but will damage your eyes, but it's like 21 bucks, so you take any cardboard box and line it with cheap foil and put the light in and cook your part for a few minutes, turn it off, rotate the model and do it again a few minutes and later you can cure in sun for a more even bake or it's ready to go. I mean it's not complicated. Even regular LED full spectrum lights will eventually harden the model, but it's not as efficient as these special lights. I sun cure everything even though I have one of these. It's just easier and I don't have to worry about over cooking and making it brittle. https://www.amazon.com/Curing-Printer-Solidify-Photosensitive-Enclosue/dp/B07X5VT56K/

>>92551615
Yeah I'll get the army painter starter kit and maybe some knight minis or something to get started first but I think I can set stuff up for around 350 bucks for 3d printing and that would include all the safeties aside from the ventilator system and also a wash and cure station, I found a good deal for about 273USD >>92549966

>>92551374
true, a blower fan pushing the fumes outside will work and that's basically what I do but I'm not running it in my house, but if only using a window or open door and running the printer during the day you can't open the printer lid until you close everything up to make a shadow again because sunlight gets inside and will cure the resin in your vat and on your build plate and model. So a ventilation system is better in that case because you can run it and still have a shaded room. But at night sure you can just push the fumes right outside. It's just not super safe to leave your window open because animals and bad guys. I have security bars on my windows so it's fine in my case.

>>92551683
Well before you buy it I'd recommend getting some of the resin by itself and pouring just a tad into a cup wearing some gloves for safety and let it sit for a while. If you don't have any reaction to it you might be able to print. If you do you are allergic to epoxies and will either need special resin or you can't print at all. Only one brand doesn't contain epoxy as far as I know and it's a bitch to work with because... it doesn't contain epoxy :( But I use it, it's just not easy for a beginner to use because it's difficult to work with. So test your sensitivity to resin before you buy the machine and everything. Just a smart move.

How are YOU hurting GW? I have taken it upon myself to make sure I can make every model my group could want, so they never give them money again.

>>92551742
Oh and remember you can't ever use that cup for anything but resin again so use a disposable plastic cup

>>92551718
You can pull a dark curtain over the window for the few seconds while you get the model out and dunk it into your washing station, it's not a big deal. I agree that having a shed or at least a separate room nobody uses is better though.

>>92551742
>>92551749
Couldn't I just buy some epoxy glue and pour it on my hand? I doubt I'm allergic since I don't have a single one to anything.

>>92551745
I'm hurting their feelings. Saying bad things about their stupid ork faces. Also not buying anything from them I absolutely need which for the past two years is nothing. I only buy their paints anyway. Their models are too expensive. And I buy coat d'arms paints primarily, and warcolours, p3, prismatic (vallejo off brand), vallejo (fuck vallejo now too since they've destroyed their old game color and model color lines), green stuff world (vallejo off brand), and scale 75 (vallejo off brand). I mean paint is paint. Some brands do certain things better than others but my collection is very large. VERY large. VERY VERY LARGE. So I'll probably never need another paint again. So games workshop can suck it. They haven't made a decent paint set since 1988. And I have those too.

>>92551765
It's a little different. 3d resin has light sensitive chemicals, epoxies, and styrene, and no you should never allow it to contact your skin AT ALL. It causes a chemical burn because it instantaneously makes your skin light sensitive actually using photo sensitive chemicals that similar to those found in oranges actually and it will harden itself forming a bond with multiple layers of your skin making you allergic when you didn't have an allergy before. The stuff is very poisonous. You can't allow it to go down the drain either. You have to let it harden in the sun and then throw it away. Same with any washing liquid you use to clean it or any alcohol you use. It's weird shit. Think about it like the chemicals used in developing photographic film especially infrared photographic film. It's sensitive professional stuff. Not to be played around with. It's basically enhanced polymer resin with a super reactive light sensitive chemical and styrene (also super deadly) as a filler to give it body and often vinyls (like the kind that the national guard used to nuke ohio).

>>92551678
This is almost exactly the one I was looking at that was on AliExpress, but this has 17 dollar shipping fee while that one ships free so I'm better off getting that, but thanks. I might just end up buying an anycubic bundle that has a cure&wash though.
>>92551839
Yeah I read all about it and having to use gloves and glasses and proper handling and disposal and all that. I would be wearing a respirator+gloves+eye protection while using it anyways so is there really that much of a concern?

>>92551897
Again it depends on your sensitivity. Even with ALL the precautions I can't use regular resin at all. Not even one sniff. It causes my throat and nose to bleed and my tongue to swell and that's the more environmentally safe "plant based resins" which by the way means nothing, that's just a selling point, and the lowest odor resins, I just have a HORRIBLE reaction to them and I'm not alone. A LOT of people do. Some people pass out, get dizzy, has asthmatic reactions (which I do), and break out in hives and eczema, (again I get those too). What they don't tell you is that you can DEVELOP these with more exposure even if you don't have them at first. So again I have to use the epoxy free Matter hackers build resin, but even then I only print maybe 5 times a year, which honestly if enough for my level of hobby activity. I can print 3 minis on one build plate at a time and usually make two build plates over a couple of days about 5 times a year. That's plenty of minis for me. Another thing they don't tell you is as you print the odor gets worse because the machine heats up. Also after you are done printing the odor remains on the printer and in the room FOR WEEKS even after you clean the printer. I honestly think, and I'm not exaggerating that there should be class action lawsuits over the way resin printers have been marketed, they are NOT safe. The resin is FOUL shit. And I strongly suspect we'll see lawsuits soon when more people start developing sudden epoxy and styrene sensitivity syndrome. There's a reason plastic figures are made in China. The government doesn't care if chinese people die because they can't vote in our elections unless the pentagon wants to steal another election from trump.

>>92551982
I guess I'll order some resin first and see how I fare.

>>92551745
Talk about hurting GW, does anyone know where I could order some cheap plastic fantasy recasts or knock-offs as practice pieces?

Hey anons, anyone got tabletop times space bears kickstarter shit?

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Hi, probably a total newb question but what's stopping anyone from just ripping the total war models from the games and 3d printing them?

>>92553331
3d printing models from vidya is very rarely that easy. Gotta do a lot of post processing to get them printable assuming you can get decent models to begin with

>>92553331
https://www.plagiarismtoday.com/2023/09/11/games-workshop-files-12-cases-with-the-copyright-claims-board/

>>92553331
ask emang

>>92553331
Absolutely nothing friend

>>92551982
>>92552209
The danger of resin is real, but proper precautions, safety equipment, a clean work area, and common sense will minimize the risks. If you have a shed or covered patio where there isn't direct sunlight, you can even print outside to easily solve ventilation issues.

I like how everyone talking about resin is either
a) just have a bit of ventilation like a fan pointing at a window, you'll be fine
or
b) you're getting cancer m8

P.S. VOC emits at all stages and peaks when it's just sitting there ready to print

>>92553331
nothing really, but 3d game models rely on bump mapping to create a lot of the texture and that has to be applied in blender or 3dsmax or something in a different way to get the textures to work. It's an illusion the 3d card applies, not a real texture on the model. But other than that nothing.

>>92555765
exactly. The ventilation has to be constant, not just when you are printing and the smell sticks to shit including yourself and up into your nostrils. Even if I wasn't deathly allergic to the shit I just can't take it. Honestly I can't believe anybody can. It smells like gut rot. The MH build resin doesn't smell great, but it smells like how I would imagine a resin would, like a slight oily smell, not pleasant, but it doesn't reek like every other brand I've tried.

>>92556253
and the absence of smell doesn't mean it's safe either. The air purifiers that sit inside the printer do great at removing the smell but it's still toxic to breathe in

>>92554163
They raped him because the dumb fuck started a 8k-a-month Patreon and thus gave them the smoking gun of making money with their assets.
Live by the jewery, die by the jewery.

And now very eamang-like, never seen before models are starting to resurface again. It’s probably him in everything but name.

I wish he just published a tutorial of his post-processing pipeline with an agnostic model, just out of spite for GW.
>>92553445
>>92556227
Extracting the models is trivial, but the post-processing is brutal. I can somewhat put out printable-enough shit, but not to eaman’s level. I’m sure that’s he actually re-constructs parts of his releases from scratch, but I could really use a rundown of the best fiddling with moenders modifiers and other semi-automated processes (of which I know very little about)

>>92553895
It seems like they wouldn't have fucked with him if he didn't try selling them.

>>92557365

> moenders modifiers

Blender modifiers.
Fucking phoneposting

>>92557374
They tried multiple times, but Cults repeatedly shielded him and told them to go fuck themselves because it was a
> transformative: videogame assets to printable models, arguably an “artistic” process to create something used in a completely different way than the original asset
> non-copyrighted: that’s why all his releases had retarded punny names, to circumvent the legally-owned names of the actual Warhammer units
> non-profitable: self explanatory

Then he went and made a patreon.
He was dumb.
And a fuck.

>>92530621
Titancraft is like heroforge but you don't pay per STL, you pay for the part one time and can DL it as an STL forever.

>>92557365
>>92557379
So when I say 'post processing' it's not a matter of slapping some filters and transforms on the extracted shit and calling it a day. It'll be much more of you recreating the features and shit that were visually part of the textures while also making the model make sense to actually 3d print.
One example is stuff like clothing or hair. It'll often be shit like a 0 thickness bit of the model that you'll need to thicken out and have supported by the model in a way that wont immediately snap off.

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>>92521924
>>92521986
Latex>plastic
Just far easier to use my friend. I still have the pattern somewhere if you want it

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>>92559489
>>92521924
>>92521986

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>>92559495
>>92521924
>>92521986

Anyone got some recommendations for good terrain sets to look at for 40k?

>>92557374
Yup. Modern niggercorpos gaslit NPCs to think IP goes beyond commercial use when it doesnt. And even commercially you can brand reference for trademarks, performance tie/transformative execution or generic defense for copyright and detail dispute for patents (last one is no good unless you have enough money for a lawyer to nag through the process for the 6-8 years but w/e most people settle in months).
Even better for game assets as those are fully yours for any private use on purchase with the first sale license you get with said purchase.

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Question for resin printing:
Why do some of several identical models in a big batch refuse to stick to the build plate?
I prepare one model in the slicer (rotate, support, raft etc.) and then copy paste that 5 times and spread them around the build plate.
Print finishes and 3 dudes look alright, 1 is missing an arm and one didn't stick at all.
I already leveled the plate but the problem persists. At first I thought it might be a specific spot on the buildplate itself that it wierd but then I went back and compared stl files and it apprears kinda random.

Any idea?

webm semi related: some ghosts and shit I printed with clear resin and it looks dope when they get cured.

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>>92550389
I have to add a couple of details and to pose it and it is done, I maybe finish it tomorrow, yes the face isn't great and the bolter is a fast kitbash from a Catachan that I did a couple of years ago.

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Can someone point me to animu girl tank commanders? The cringier the better. 40k is fine since my tanks could still use them, but I'm mainly looking for adding them for Achtung Panzer. Don't need the STLs unless you're willing to upload it. Just need to be pointed in the right direction.

Sorry for doing a petition.
But anybody know some "energy shields" or "magic barriers" that could be stick to a base or can stand by their own?

>>92560043
Think I had errors like this, and it got fix after changing the FEP, dont know how old is yours

>>92560853
changed it pretty recently, maybe made 5 or 6 prints with it

does anyone know any good proxies for a dawnbreaker cohort or angel's tears?

>>92561165
eternal pilgrins termi pack by greytide on etsy

>>92547565
needed:
>3d printer
>resin
>isopropyl alcohol (or water washable resin)

fancy bullshit you dont need to "just" print a mini:

everything else

>>92561892
is this a chain yank?

>>92561892
>>92562341
>pilgrins

>>92562293
he would need to cure the resin right?
if not, they will be sticky and oily all the time, or alcohol get rids of that as well?

>>92562599
You can cure prints in the sun, although that takes longer than if you had a cure station.

>Entire squad of SM stl is 500MB
>A single helmet is 200MB
What the fuck is going on here?

>>92500115
Oh no that's going to be awful
>That Ankha figure
I blame zone for this.

So I made the brave step of ah buying stuff off etsy. It's been reasonable quality but I just feel like resin throws off a lot of my regular mini workflow? Is there a strong resin/plastic/multiuse (or even a strong resin/resin) glue to use? My online guys are printing on a mars 3 or something but some of the curves still come out wiht just slightly visible stepping? Is most fill primers going to smooth that out or do people still stand resin?

>>92560503
aHR0cHM6Ly9mdWNrLm9mZi9mYWdnb3Q

Is there any way to stripping paint from Resin since I heard IPA will melt resin model

>>92566517
>aHR0cHM6Ly9mdWNrLm9mZi9mYWdnb3Q
>implying the newfag will be able to use that

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>>92566609
>implying
>implying implying
welcome to 4chan newfag

>>92566517
>>92566609
.>heh, let me help you out but also not really
>lol that really isn't helpful huh :)
What the fuck?

>>92521924
>>92521986
Very nice

>>92559489
>>92559495
>>92559504
Fucking lmao

>>92566609
>>92567109
who the fuck said anything about helping? the only thing i'd help a weeb to do is commit suicide
>>92567124
>Fucking lmao
i thought the same thing. this has to be someone pretending this is theirs. no one in their right mind would own up to this.

>>92567299
>has to be someone pretending
he also posted it in /wip/ saying it was an ebay listing for £10

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>>92557751

The workflow that somewhat works for me in blender is to turn those normal (the weird rainbow color map things) into grayscale or split them into their individual color channels. In either case you get a grayscale map that sorta approximates the details present in the game model.

Apply that shit as a displacement map on your low poly model with enough subdivisions and you get something detailed. However, it'll be non-manifold as shit. Emang's models are riddled with non-manifold geometry and intersecting faces, so even he doesn't try to fix them.

Instead of trying to make it manifold, remesh it with a small enough voxel size so you don't have too many issues with bad geometry. It basically rebuilds the model with brand new geometry instead of trying to fix every single flipped normal and manifold face. Plus, decimating that shit just got a lot easier.

For things like hair and capes, it really is a pain in the ass. I've never done it, but I think a rule of thumb should be that a cape should be 1 mm thick or so when printed. Hair is probably even harder. His models don't really have capes I think, so even he doesn't deal with that headache.

pic related: me fucking around with emang's skarsnik model

jfc, when last I perused this general you assholes made it sound as though this was a relatively safe activity, save for fumigation concerns. Now I find out I'll be working with eye dissolving juice? That at best I can filament print and expose myself to microplastics from the source, none of that secondary environmental shit? This just doesn't seem worth it, and this is coming from a guy that smoked out of a bong caked in uncured silicone pipe sealant (we were young).

>>92568120
not going to lie, this hobby can and most likely will fuck you up medically later in life. but it is perfect for single middle aged men with nothing to live for

>>92568205
Well, yeah, target audience here. The cancer and copd doesn't bother me nearly as much as, you know, instant blindness. Something about those two words, there's an additive sense of "fuck you!"

I want to at least SEE the ridiculous end to my shitless nothing life.

>>92568120
wear a goggle u fag

>>92568279
Eat a dick, nerd. I just watched that goobertown guy on the whole thing. I think that fucker has dissolved bodies in industrial drums before. I get that vibe.

>>92568291
got a pair of those yellow tinted gamer glasses? they'll suffice
>gooberguy
i got more of a dismembers hookers and wears their skin vibe myself

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I'm printing giants

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>>92568388
>gamer glasses
I'll meet you halfway with Bono glasses.
>gooberguy
I mean the parts of the hookers he doesn't use. This isn't some first nations shit, "must use every part."

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>>92567299
>>92567386
Yeah, it was me. Thought it'd get a laugh

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>>92568479
i unironically think that pit viper aka le boomerino maymay glasses would work better. unless they dissolve after contact with ipa/resin

>>92568601
The best googles to use are scientific chemical kind. These are 5 dollars. No reason not to get them. https://www.amazon.com/Protective-Glasses-INDUSTRIAL-STRENGTH-Anti-Fog/dp/B01MSEDJUC/

>>92568659
yeah, but wher's the fun in that?

>>92548902
>shed
>bred and slaughtered rabbits
SHED.MOV was a documentary! (also, it's still on Youtube)

>>92568507
The biggest question is did someone buy it?

>>92568932
The fun would be keeping your eyesight.

>>92548902
Hau hau haunted bunny shed? I wah wah would rather not go in there.