Work in Progress, "Troll SMASH!" Edition>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno >Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s>Paint thinning 102https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI>Darren Latham's 20 top tips for miniature painting successhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXNObqeNb8>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginnershttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM>Decal Like a Prohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c>How to Edge Highlighthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk>How to use contrast style paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI>How to Paint with Tremors https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special wayhttps://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny>Previous Threads:>>93086095>>93067410>>93050009>>93031977
My WIP swampboys are coming along
Finished this Skinky chair.
>>93109004Put some more effort into those horns and vines or whatever those are. Even a drybrush would help, now it's pretty obvious they just had contrast slapped over them and it doesn't look particularly good. Stone is nice but you need to remove more paint or something because there are a lot of streaks that take away from the effect. Also fill the gaps on future projects, it's particularly jarring on the vines in the back
Churning out some mushrooms and attempting cold porcelain for the first time. My greenstuff is quite old and was very difficult to work with so hilariously the cold porcelain was probably the nicer material even if it doesn't hold details very well.
Any of you guys have a brand of Ultrasonic cleaner you recommend or can I pick up any old chinkshit on Amazon? I'm looking to 3D print more stuff and it'd be nice to have a machine that makes stripping paint a lot easier.
>>93109699I bought a chinkshit from Ali and it does its job
Did some lenses for the first time and detailing it up. Highlights and shading next I imagine.
An open promise, if I dont make it someone else please finish a steel legion kill team. Thanks lads, hope to be back.
>>93109803What's happening anon?
>find video series about hobby motivation>wow this is great, where's that discord link>linktree>onlyfansFor fuck's sake. Anyone got any good videos on painting motivation? I find it intimidating.
>>93109803Context?
>>93109933As things stand now my motivating factor is the air conditioner working. I can't sit under a lamp, too hot.
>>93109863>>93109962Pressure in chest, got vertigo and fell. Heading to get checked out.
>>93110047Hang in there m8. Breathe slowly and keep calm.
>>93108901Noob question.Let's say I'm layering and I've built up 5 layers from basecoat to white.Out of the 5 layers which one do I glaze/layer over the whole to tie all the layers together?
>>93110047Good luck, anon, hope you recover. We're rooting for you.
>>93109933https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXsQAXx_ao0
>>93108901Second termie basically done, the kitbashed loincloths are fitting in quite well>>93109741Looking good anon. I had a lot of fun painting my ballistus. (basecoating all those flat panels by brush wasn't too fun though)
>>93109736Yeah makes sense, it either emits high frequency waves through cleaning solution or it doesn't.
>>93109933Just do it? Start with one color or coat then add on to it. Understade at some point the model will be in an ugly phase until it is finished. You cant really ruin your model, you can always strip it and start over.
I've expressed interest in painting and friends who are in/out of the hobby have thrown a ton of supplies at me. Good start?
>>93110070generally the midtone thin
>>93110070Ideally? You should glaze with the last tone you used everytime you do a layer. Using just one saves time, but I'd stick to either the darker up to the middle one depending on the result you want.
Hey /wip/. I shared some pics of my process of building houses for a basic city board a few weeks back. Now the process is (almost) done, to the point i finally put them on the table.Not strictly wip, but here goes a few pics of the results. Would post in occasional terrain general, but that thread is rare unfortunately.
>>93110316
>>93110324
>>93110333
>>93110343Thanks to all the anons that gave me advice throughout the previous threads.
>>93110166He's absolutely spiffy! I can only hope mine turn out half as nice as yours. I don't know that I've painted any terminators this century.
>>93109933You can always strip the paint, it's never permanently fucked, just give it a go.
>>93110273Yep. I'd advice making a wet palette though, and you seem to be missing a hobby knife and pliers.
>>93110383Luckily I have a hobby knife and pliers from my foray into gunplay, I just have to dig them out.
>>93110273>Good start?It's a big step in the right direction, that's for sure!Once you get some models - assuming they will be plastic or resin - you're going to want something to cut them with - hobby knife at the bare minimum, hobby knife and sprue trimmers would be even better.... and if you can spare a few bucks at the hardware store (Harbor Freight?), a heavy-duty set of wire cutters to cut things you don't want to use your valuable sprue-cutters for is always a good idea.Spend more money than I did on these shitty sprue-cutters. See if you can get a Ruitool, or whatever your country has access to as an equivalent.
>>93110316Cute town anon. My only problem.. where the chimneys at?
>>93110412Got these leftover from my Gunpla hobby.
>>93110316Very cozy, nicebut anon i right, it'd be even cozier with them stone chimney>>93110365Thank you, good luck with yours, are you going for Blood Angels?
>>93108973That's certainly an interesting colour choice.
>>93108901>tfw accidentally broke off my Hive Tyrant's tail due to brain shutting down when he fell and attempting to fix a bend that didn't actually happenIt's not the biggest disaster that could've happened admittedly, and surprisingly even with what I did none of the paint even broke off of him and some of it's seamlessly blending back together now as the gorilla glue is drying so I'm hoping it won't be too hard to make it look good as new again, but I am ashamed and disappointed in myself for letting him down and hopefully I can make it up to him.
Im going to take a break from painting and build some legos.
Demon girls acquired.I have 3 chances to not screw her up.
Finished a classic bunker. Been in a terrain mood lately.
>>93110953SOVL
>>93110991It does look like a picture you'd see in White Dwarf in 1998
Working on these 2 old-school champions of Chaos. I really like painting the color red, so I figured I'd make them look as if they were marked by Khorne.I need to stop being lazy and learn how to actually use blood effects.
>>93110997I am severely mentally disabled.
Painted some DoW terrain this week too.>>93110995Great, that's what I'm going for.
>>93111044
>>93110815>I am ashamed and disappointed in myself for letting him downTaking it a bit far there mate. It's a piece of plastic shaped like an alien.
Dumbass looking for opinionWas this shit always 15$ for a single model sprue? Is this Hasbro premium upcharge or have I just been buying the economy shit this whole time? Haven't bought RPG minis to paint in forever, been too busy with /awg/ shit.15$ for a D&D Frameworks character feels kind of steep. It's a single sprue and a couple alternative sets of arms and an accessory. I could just buy 3x of the regular D&D/Pathfinder 2-pack minis for the same price and get more variety than the Frameworks kit. Apparently 15$ is the going price, but I'm used to buying wargame sprues of multi-dudes sprue also with alternative poses and parts also at like 15$/sprue, on top of kitbashing it all together anyway.
>>93110918Has a good face. Hope you're good with faces.
>>93110997>learn how to actually use blood effectsEasier than painting.
>>93111367Welcome to 3D printing, enjoy your stay.
>>93111392I fought my resin printer for months before giving up on it. Endless rituals to appease the machine spirit, with the best of tech support suggesting I repeat said rituals until they work, and when it started (briefly) working again (temporarily) there was never any consistency as to which rituals and why.It's probably my own fault for not buying a more expensive printer, but I probably spent more time*money in troubleshooting on top of the hardware than I have in /awg/ miniatures with very little in return for the trouble.
Tested printing a Confidant since it's the only Veteran Guardsman option for Killteam that I hadn't built yet and I had no plans of using one in 40k, everything but the bolter is FDM. The arms and body came out pretty passable but even with a 0.2mm nozzle FDM can't really do the fine details needed for the head and backpack. I'll probably just print bodys and use leftover arms while ebaying extra heads/backpacks to use.
>>93111376Well. I, uh...Listen...
Crack that WIPGive the past a slipStep on a crackBreak your mama's backWhen a problem comes alongYou must WIP itBefore the cream sits out too longYou must WIP itWhen something's going wrongYou must WIP itNow WIP itInto shapeShape it upGet straightGo forwardMove aheadTry to detect itIt's not too lateTo WIP itWIP it goodWhen a good time turns aroundYou must WIP itYou will never live it downUnless you WIP itNo one gets awayUntil they WIP itI say WIP itWIP it goodI say WIP itWIP it goodCrack that WIPGive the past a slipStep on a crackBreak your mama's backWhen a problem comes alongYou must WIP itBefore the cream sits out too longYou must WIP itWhen something's going wrongYou must WIP itNow WIP itInto shapeShape it upGet straightGo forwardMove aheadTry to detect itIt's not too lateTo WIP itInto shapeShape it upGet straightGo forwardMove aheadTry to detect itIt's not too lateTo WIP itWIP it good
Posting him again to see if anyone has any thoughts. Angels Penitent
>>93111365well actually, no, he's made of metalI was being melodramatic but I am really fond of that guy. Thankfully I've managed to repaint and repair him now, so he's back in his case while everything dries. Took the chance to neaten a couple of finer details around the pipe on his gun while I was at it a well. I've faith that he'll be alright by the morning.
Anyone with the new Vallejo paints able to tell me what the closest match for Citadel's Caledor Sky and Teclis Blue are, please? I've recently tried the new Vallejo stuff and have fallen in love with it, but I want to know exactly what the colors look like before buying them because none of my local stores have Vallejo and I have to order online.
>>93111367>Hasbro premium upchargeIf you're familiar with /awg/ you answered your own question.Any reason you can't use Reaper?
>>93111411Welp, then enjoy the ridiculous prices on mini's I suppose.
>>93111445Just try your utmost. Feel free to ask questions, I'll respond if I'm awake (western Europe).
>>93108901
>>93111454I appreciate the effort, but I don't listen to hiphop.
>>93111826Needs a pair of those magnifying glass headbands.
>>93108901What's a good beige coloured paint that will be good use for bone colours that covers well?I've got skeletons to paint.
>>93112151Vallejo 71.075 Sand (Ivory) is what I used on my skeletons
>>93112194LGS near me doesn't sell Vallejo paints, but I was able to hit up the Vallejo to AK paint chart and it says that "Cremeweiss" is the AK equivalent of that colour. Is that paint good and will it cover over black primer well? I don't want to buy another primer just for the bunch of skeletons I'm going to paint.
>>93112233No white-ish paint will cover black well.
>>93112261well that sucks. Maybe I could paint thin grey layers over the black and then layer white-ish paint over it instead? Would that work?
>>93112233>>93112377(checked)For the record you don't need it to cover well. Drybrush or overbrush and you have well-shaded skeletons before you even apply the wash.>>93112261Two coats of a white paint thinned with white ink will get damn close.It's true though that it's not something that should be done in the first place though, it's just making it harder for oneself.
>>93111454You forgot the visual
>>93112377could always use Wraithbone
>>93110798>are you going for Blood Angels?Of course!>>93110995My AOP board originally had one of the cardstock bunkers from White Dwarf 169 on it. I upgraded it later to a plastic Imperial Bastion
>>93112445>the cardstock bunkers from White Dwarf 169Attachment related
I'm just getting into painting minis and am fairly lost on what exactly I need to get going. I've got some wraithbone and army painter uniform grey primer, a few cheap brushes (detail and not), an army painter wet palette, a cheap airbrush with compressor and nothing else.I saw a recommendation for the AK Josedavinci signature set is that a good start? Do I need both gloss and matte (ultra matte?) varnishes and which brand are good? Any particular washes or anything else I ought to pick up right off the bat? Citadel stuff is available locally but everything else needs to be ordered so I want to get at least the basics so I can get into just painting. Going to be mostly doing zombies, ghouls, skeletons, black/red/regular metallics and their bases if that helps narrow it down. I usually like more bright "popping" looks without going into gaudy territory (bit nostalgic for old 90s citadel as a reference) but I don't dislike more down to earth stuff so long as it looks good.Any help is appreciated thanks.
>>93112679shit wrong pic one second.
>>93112377coat of brown over the black then your brighter color over that
>>93112552Ok. Put that airbrush and compressor away for now. You're way too new to be worrying about it. For primer, Rustoleum 2x Flat PRIMER is king for quality/price. Make sure the can says Primer only, NOT Paint+Primer. I'd avoid buying paint sets off the bat. Buy colors you know you're going to want to use.Look up videos of various paint brands to see them actually being used. Stahly from Tale of Painters is really good about it, Juan Hidalgo shows off a bunch of Vallejo, Don Suratos just recently switched to exclusively use the new Army Painter stuff. Stahly covers the widest range, but you don't get a good look at a ton of colors from the respective ranges, he does this thing on patreon where he sells paint swatches of entire ranges.I prefer matte varnish myself. I still use Testor's Dullcote, but there's a bunch out there. It's another good subject to look up on Youtube, look for more recent uploads, though. Some shit may have been discontinued or changed formula.
Coming back to painting after several years absence. I took a print which I'm not going to be using and decided to do some test painting tonight to try out some techniques I hadn't tried before to see how they would look. Wasn't trying to do a completed mini with all the details just wanted to try some base coating and washing techniques.First thing I decided to try was zenethal highlighting. Went over the model with greys doing a zenethal highlight and then spraying up from below with a darker color. Then I went over it all with green. I actually really liked how it turned out. It felt nice to me and looked good at arms length with a nice highlight.Next thing I wanted to try was an oil wash. So I hit it with a satin enamel and then mixed up an oil wash and slathered it on before going back with a que tip to try and work it off everywhere except for the recesses. I really don't care for how this turned out. I'm not sure if I did something wrong or not. The vid I saw, which was done with a off white mini, showed very different results where the oil wash didn't tint the paint on the raised areas at all and they stayed nice and bright. But mine really darkened down the whole thing.What I would like to ask, is if anyone can tell me what I may have done wrong with the oil wash, or alternatively suggestions with next steps after the zenethal and base color is down. I'm thinking pin wash maybe? I'm half tempted to just leave it without a wash at all but I know that would make the mini kinda flat.
>>93112552>>93112711>Look up videos of various paint brands to see them actually being used.Forgot to add that I say this mainly because the color swatches on websites are usually CRAZY off from what you actually get. Then you can decide what colors you want to go after.
>>93112711>Stahly from Tale of Painters is really good about itHis review of yellow paints was absolute ass, he panned Kimera because he thinks that opacity is the only variable like a GW smoothbrain.
>>93112732Yeah, he's had some dumb opinions, he rated the new Game Colors 7.0 but I'm absolutely in love with them. But I'm mainly suggesting him for the broad range of brands he demos. You can make your own decisions without caring too much about what he says.
>>93112715The airbrushing looks good.Did you use mineral spirits on the q tip?If you really can't find wash that works, when in doubt hit it with some Agrax.
>>93112744I hadn't put mineral spirits on the q tip. I was worried they would wash off the paint in the recesses. Should I?
>>93112759It's standard operating procedure.It's not supposed to be wet enough to get into the recesses, it's just like wicking off a brush. Watch somebody do it on video.
What’s a good desk hobby lamp I can get off Amazon? Preferably no wireless crap. My current lamp is kind of small and shines a in a small area. I’m painting a large tall model right now and it’s awkward trying to hold it in the right light while not hitting the lamp itselfNeed something that projects a wider and light since I can’t take good pictures under my current lamp. All the light is focused at the top so I have to hold it awkwardly and it’s hard to catch all the details. Prefer something under 80$ that doesn’t need to be hung and sits stably. What do you guys use?
>>93112795I’m going to recommend the GameEnvy Lucent lamp, it is a bit pricy at $85, but if you google coupon codes for GameEnvy you can knock it down a bit, I did. Also $85 for that quality lamp blows the FUCK out of Red Grass’s TWO HUNDRED DOLLAR light. I LOVE mine. I had been using an Ottlite Slimline Task lamp for years, though. Also a great light, much cheaper at around $30-40, and surprisingly good for pictures.
>>93112401>Two coats of a white paint thinned with white ink will get damn close.>>93112702>coat of brown over the black then your brighter color over thatI'll try the brown over the black first, and if that fails then I'll try white paint thinned with white ink.I have test models to try just drybrushing bone over black and see what that gets me. Thanks anons.
Trying to get an icy pastel colour scheme, but I'm colourblind and can't paint shit.
>>93108973This scheme is so bad dude
>>93109699Cheap ones are either the same as the expensive ones or they do almost nothing and are just a bullet vibrator stuck to a tub. If you can take the financial/emotional hit if it doesn't work buy cheap ones until you get one that works well. If you're going to be sad when you need to buy a different one just buy a nice one from a lab supply store and it'll last you until you die
>>93112552You don’t need the airbrush right now. “Hobby” primer cans are redundant and just cost more. Hardware store primer is fine. You have an airbrush so you don’t need hobby primers in specific colors like cans of citadel averland sunset or mephiston red. Get a can of matte or “flat” grey or black primer from the hardware store. When you get more experience you can prime with your airbrush and basecoat with it. It’s a big learning curve itself so hold off for now. As for paints, I recommend Vallejo game color bone white (the new formula with the new label that came out last year). They don’t require much thinning at all but need a little bit more time to dry and cure. About a full minute or two. Skeleton horde contrast is also good for quick skeles. Vallejo game color also has nice poppy colors that I like for my maggotkin, who are mostly drab and green. The paint range really doesn’t matter as a newbie. Get whatever is most available and affordable for you. Except for metallcis. citadel and Vallejo metallics are good IME, can’t speak on any others. Get retributor armor and leadbelcher and you’ll be fine for 90% of metallic needs. Also get some washes. A brown wash like agrax earth shade and a black one like nuln oil. A sepia wash is good too for bone. >varnishesGet whatever you think looks best. Im a matte man myself. Gloss varnishes are good for applying washes>prime>paint the bone>apply sepia or dark brown wash >dry brush it with the same bone color (mix in some white for more brightness)>paint the metals, wooden shield, boots, etc (add wash if you want)For the ghouls and zombies you can paint it all a sickly color like ionrach flesh or Vallejo goblin green. Contrast plants work well for ghouls, skeles and zombies since they’re mostly one color and have blotchy skin.
Workin' on the skin. The plan is to do all the skin pretty much to completion then do the carapace after the fact. This is just the washes on the skin. Thank god I had a giant brush or this step would've taken forever. I still don't know what my color scheme will be, but I really wanted to use proacryl jade, so I'm thinking dark green that fades into jade. But this is already a tad dark, so I might want something lighter for the carapace - depends on how the skin looks after highlighting.
>>93112715Sounds like you left the oil wash on a little too long before trying to buff it off. Every oil wash mix is different so experiment with how long you need to let something sit before the clean up process.
>>93112770Went back with a spirit damp q-tip. Kept the wash in the really deep recesses but I think it still worked off a little too much. What do you think? >>93113042I mean I only left it for like, 5 minutes tops. Don't you need to leave it for a minute or two before you start?
>>93110508>Got these leftover from my Gunpla hobby.You quit gunpla?
Ok I think I consider the skin finished now.Still mulling about what do with the rock skin. Would it look good with the blue I tried on the leg or should I go for something else?Also why is the guy the OP there are surely more competent miniatures in the last thread
Touched up the vials, shifted the orderly's skin to a different green and added clotted blood and weathering.
>>93113236Troll intellect is rubbing off right now
>>93113236>Would it look good with the blue I tried on the leg or should I go for something elselooks bretty good to me>>93113242ayyy you did the changes i told ya! looking good anonyou calling it done?
>>93113272Thanks for the suggestions btw. Yes, I think this one's done. Next on the list is a deff dread.
>>93113522Oh no, you mean to say that there's someone on the planet that can paint better than the average hobbyist???? And that the average hobbyist doesn't already know???!?!!?!?!?Have a (You) I guess.
@93113522 (no you for you)It's simple - it's MY paintjob. I made it, it's my work and I'm doing it as good as I can. This alone makes it worthy. I don't give a shit that somebody does things better than me, it's straight road to frustration and other problems. I had to work out this problem with friendly psychologist help, after being conditioned to never be satisfied with anything I do since school (basically each time I did something, teachers would point out somebody else did it faster, earlier and better. In theory it was supposed to make kids aim higher, in reality it made everyone outside topest few to give up by default). Everyone work and improve on their own pace and my work indeed IS better each time, even if only slightly. This alone is something to hold on as it brings fulfilment and joy - opposite to focusing on that one grumpy asshole who will zoom on your pictures all the way down and complain that surface isn't perfectly smooth like his Japanese Twitter masters (without even understanding how acrylic paint dries and not even comprehending possibility of not using airbrush). Where is fun in that?Stop promoting unhealthy approach.
>>93110417>>93110798Thanks lads, and yes, point taken about the chimneys. The interior of the houses are playable, and after making a chimney for the smithy building I opted out for the rest. Placing all the bricks individually sucked balls.
>>93113574GIVE ME MY FUCKING (You) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>93113578>building brick by brickthis is the wayhow do you make the bricks?also seeing those bottles there do you pain terrain with them? maybe you want to look into craft paint to paint such large pieces, for the same cost you can get a 60ml bottle or more
>>93112929>>93110800I'm going for an 80s/90s toy vibe, I get that others won't like it but I like my dudes.
>93113522No fucking way, who would've thought that scale modelling and mini painting have different approaches and produce different results???Don't think for a moment I don't know it's you, hobbylet schizo. Get the fuck back to shitting up 40kg you fucking waste of oxygen, nobody wants you here
>>93111831Go back
Is it worth paying a premium for citadels contrasts? Are speed paints 2.0 or valejo xpress color good enough for plain quick army painting to combat ready?
>>93113149Less quit, more didn't continue. I still have unbuilt kits in a box.
>>93113717I admit, I picked mine solely based on what particular colours did I want, since I wasn't feeling like mixing them from a set of speedpaints, so yeah I do have some Citadel contrast ones.
>>93113729I picked up some gunpla thinking i'd enjoy it because painting stresses me but I like assembling. Found it exceedingly boring but maybe I just don't like big robots.>>93113717Speedpaint 2.0 seriously dropped the contrast while they changed the formula to fix the reactivation.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wO9f6wQHQs&t=513sXpress seem a lot less pigment-dense than contrast in my limited experience. I've picked up some of the Intense range which are supposed to fix that.tl;dr i think contrast is worth the extra.
>>93113770Damn whats with AP and losing any kind of vibrancy in the newest releases?Their new Fanatic paints also suffer from the same issue.
>>93113770Thanks, I was about to get the big speed paint set but I think I’ll try to separate them a bit.Also as I’m mostly building gunpla - try to check out 30 minute missions, and figure rise series. Those are usually something else, either great kitbash material or funky figurines like yugioh or tokusatsu characters
>>93113717>>93113770With Contrast/Xpress/Speedpaint etc it is 100% necessary to think in advance about what you want to do, and those paints should not be purchased "blindly". For example, an excellent paint like "Imperial Fist" (Contrast Yellow with extremely good coverage) sucks ass at doing the standard "slapchop" technique, because it just covers too good. The opposite is possible too, for example "Dreadful Visage", (which is also a great paint in my opinion) has so little coverage that it can not really be used over anything else than white primer (or zenithal with a lot of white/bright highlights). Both paints can lead to disappointment by buying them and expecting them to behave like a "standard" contrast paint like Flesh Tearers Red, that behaves like you expect it: covers well, while also shades. >tl;dr i think contrast is worth the extra.In some cases yes, in other cases (the mentioned Flesh Tearers Red, to use the same example) its not worth it, because the cheaper alternatives do the same job, just as well.
>>93113810>I was about to get the big speed paint setYou should never ever buy a full set of paints.
>>93113885NTA but I bought the full set of Warpaints fanatic and it's my best ever hobby purchase.
>>93113986buy an ad
>>93113986Not to shit on AP or anything but theyre nothing extraordinary.Other brands have been selling that kind of paint (or better) for years now.
>>93114072nta nor do i have any of the fanatics paints, but if they sell them at their usual cheap price, and the paints are low legitimately on the same level as the others that are out there, then thats absolutely not a bad thing.>>93113986>full setI can imagine you only using half of those many colors, and ever after 1-2 years some bottles will still be unopened.
>>93108973Nice lego scheme
>>93110316that guy's miniature in the front
>>93114072Coming from citadel colors exclusively I find them great, but the main thing for me is that the bottles tell me exactly what color they are and I know I can shade or highlight using the other colors in each 6 bottle set. I'm almost completely green colorblind and red deficient so this helps me a lot.>>93114099I haven't used every single one probably, but I have used a lot, and I'm glad I do have the ones I haven't used in case I do want to really brightly highlight a purple or whatever.
>>93114142>but the main thing for me is that the bottles tell me exactly what color they are and I know I can shade or highlight using the other colors in each 6 bottle set. I'm almost completely green colorblind and red deficient so this helps me a lot.So whats great about them is the information on the pots and not the paints themselves
>that schizos posts actually got deletedwait no way, I thought nobody gave a fuck about this board, based jannies>>93113717What do you mean premium? Speedpaints 2.0/xpress are better and more consistent. First wave contrasts have a lot of really shit ones and as it always goes with citadel they will never do anything about them unless they're doing like a whole range overhaul
>>93111611Damn that's a nice color scheme. The head could be a bit more interesting with a bit more contrast but overall it's great.
>>93114205For me specifically you could say that, but the paints are very nice, not perfect but very nice.Again I'm coming from citadel so I really like that any paint can be used as a base color and isn't a badly covering pain like all the designated citadel layer paints.They also dry pretty quickly which I appreciate, the vibrant blues and greens lines are also especially good, I can actually see and appreciate some of those greens.The reds are a weak point, they aren't very saturated, and there's little annoyances like "matt black" actually being satin etc.Overall these paints are just a joy to work with.
>>93111789Anyone? Also looking for Kantor Blue.
>>93114543Vallejo has a conversion chart, don't know how accurate it is though cause I've never owned Citadel blues
>>93114587Magic Blue looks like a good match, but Sunrise Blue is so far off. There’s a couple of paints in the model color line I’d been eyeing as possible matches but it’s impossible to find pictures of the actual paint rather than just the promotional shot for the bottle or color swatch as those are typically off, too.
>>93114207Well premium as in, are citadel paints quality that much better to use and paint with to justify twice the price of Vallejo/AP
Still need to varnish but it's done
>>93114657NTA but citadel paints have really fallen behind with all these new paint ranges coming out. The new army painter stuff goes on amazingly, though I don’t like the desaturation or satin finish much, I understand that the desaturation is because of all the white they use to make it as opaque as it is. I’m the one trying to hunt down these Vallejo blues because I fell in love with the new ranges. GW’s major draw is the unique colors and tones they achieve with pigment mixes. But their biggest drawbacks are inconsistent paint behavior, shitty metallics that for the most part thin and apply like shit, and their fuck ass pots that ensure your paint gunks up on the rim. Also, I’ve had factory-unopened pots already have paint forming into gummy chunks with separated pigment despite never being opened. And fuck GW for ruining their shade recipes.
Is the anon not feeling well alright? Have you got checked, dude?
>>93112919Looks icy pastel to me.
>>93113242Those syringes look great now.
>>93112445>Of course!Nice, BA terminators are based>>93113717They all tend to behave differently, even among the same brand, you need to research in advance to find what meets your needs. Luckily there should be plenty of resources showing their behaviourSome contrast paints are highly pigmented and will act more as a really smooth basecoat rather than providing any semblance of shading and highlighting. Others are more close to washes, and others are in the middle ground.
>>93113253I honestly kinda like the desert yellow for a stone troll. It's different.
>>93114781>those gigantic gapsdear god
>>93113578I see. Maybe mix in some later tech and give them iron chimneys?
>>93113670No, you. Hiphop is a stain on western society.
>>93114657Nope. Citadel is no better than the other brands, and no serious painter uses them beyond a couple they might specifically need for project.
>>93114781Skin on the squig could use a couple highlights, it's a bit flat.
>>93113617>how do you make the bricks?I finally caved and got a proxxon, for future projects mostly. And yes, you are right about the craft paints. I've tried to use craft paints for bricks and wood, the vallejo ones i usually use for smaller details and the coloring of the house walls themselves. Though that really uses them up fast..>>93115014Huh, good call. I might go for it.
This fly has taken almost a whole week. regret not sub assembling since it's a pain to hold and get in the awkward angle with a brush.the 2nd flyboy will definitely be mostly contrast paints. I can't take doing it all over again. >>93114207some vallejo/AP paints are just not the same color or shade as the GW ones. Vallejo's xpress "black" is has a lot of blue in it.>>93113717>worth the premium?yes, most of the time. GW's 2nd line of contrast has some paints that are so pigment dense that they act more like inks. Imperial fist, magmadroth flame, and baal red are super saturated and act more like instant basecoats. no thinning or multiple coats required. they have some nice colors like snakebite leather and flesh tearers red and I have 2 vallejo xpress paints, goblin green and black lotus. goblin green is a fine green with a teeny bit of yellow, but goblin skin can be anything from lime green to turqouise in most setting. Black lotus has so much grey and blue you can barely call it a black. it's like the color citadel dark reaper as a contrast paint>>93114781looks good. well done anon. maybe drybrush the squig a little bit. I like the blue/green spikes.
>>93115736FUCK, wrong pick. here's the slimy flyboy
>>93115777>>93115736also, I'm using nihilakh oxide for the first time on the brass and got no idea what I'm doing. it doesn't look super great so far but I may just leave it.
>>93115736Im aiming for mostly using contrast for zenithal/black+white drybrush, but I’m not sure, most of materials I’ve found was not really clear about quality so I think I’ll have to experiment. Is there a beginner friendly set of any contrast paint with basic shades I could mix?
>>93115736Finally, somebody who remembers the REAL ultramarines.
>>93115812that 90s style with bright blue and yellow eagles and trim is so much fucking better than whatever the fuck we have now it's unreal
>>93113111If i read right you used a satin varnish, this is why you had more staining. Using a gloss varnish would prevent most of the staining and preserve the original color more. Since you varnished ahead of time you could use the spirits and a small sponge to completely remove the oil if you arent satisfied with it. The staining will also depend on how thick your oil wash is and what paints you used. Some paints that are fully transparent may stain more than a semitransparent paint (eg. dioxazine purple vs. burnt umber) so it's a good opportunity to choose complimentary colors.
>>93113253I'm glad you kept going instead of starting over, it looks better than before with more progress on the hands/arms/face. Blue and orange is a classic scheme so it should look fine. The rock could go either a warm or cold grey, and warm leathers/cloth would go well with the skin. The crystal can be a good spot for pop color, maybe a real cold desaturated blue to contrast the warm tone of the model, or even a rich purple to pick up some of the belly tones. Lots of ways to take it, looking forward to seeing more progress.
>>93113770>Found it exceedingly boring but maybe I just don't like big robotsTbf Gundam has fairly repetitive designs, maybe look into the upcoming AC6 kits
>>93113790white to add opacity on a lot of their brighter colors mellowed them out.
>>93113001>When you get more experience you can prime with your airbrush and basecoat with it. It’s a big learning curve itself so hold off for now. Why do so many people pretend like airbrushing is super difficult or something? Unless you're a retard that will spray a gallon at once instead of couple thin coats even a monkey could do simple shit like priming/basecoating
>>93108901how do i paint skin/flesh transitions like in the OP?
>>93116324that's just layering, not even blending
>>93115797>spread a bit over the general area you want to weather the brass>gently wipe some off with your finger irregularities and little smudges will dry as corrosive texture and you shouldn't have wiped too much out of the deepest recesses with your finger so itll dry looking like heavier corrosion
>>93116324That was just the Airbrush doing it. This is the guy after an all over wash of reikland flesh shade.Don't have an earlier picture.
>>93115024Go back
>>93116310Because there’s lots of little minutiae you need to take into account, too. Something about airbrushing runs parallel to my brain because I can’t help but fuck up every time I try to use it. Just yesterday I couldn’t even lay down a thin coat of vallejo model color white grey thinned at 2 different dilutions without some disgusting tip dry or clogging in the nozzle. Yes, I do the press, pull, pushback, release spray method, I ran it between 15-20PSI, I just don’t know why it keeps going so wrong for me.
>>93113885>buy all pro acryl>they bring out 4 new signature setsFucking hate this shit. At least Army Painter brought out their entire set at once.
>>93116521do not use acrylics for airbrush, use dedicated airbrush lacquers, thin them very well, or use mr hobby paints. Vallejo and Army Painters are known to clog airbrushes a lot because of vinyl additives
Does anyone here know how difficult it would be to rip off the head of a paragon warsuit and replace it with another one? I’ve done it before with battle sisters, but it looks like it might be more tricky with paragon warsuits
>>93116726It just sits on a little depression like most GW models.
>>93116707>do not use acrylics for airbrush???????
>>93116707Why does it feel like everyone in the world does without issue?
>>93116749>It just sits on a little depressiondont we all
>>93116707>>93116521Never had a single issue with airbrushing vgc, neither the new nor the old ones. Don't know what he's doing wrong though because his method seems correct. Maybe try not mixing in the airbrush if you're doing that?
>working on bases for a squad>primer adheres fine through painting and drybrushing>attaching the base so i can then varnish everything together>works great for the first 4 guys>go to do the sergeant>paint starts flaking off in places I didn't even see the model make contact with, all the way down to bare greenstuff>the sergeant's base was the best one I did out of the set by a long shot, and now apparently primer won't even stick to itfor fucks sakeI painted back over the flaked off areas, once it dries I'm varnishing and hoping for the best, but I'm probably gonna have to rebase this guy in the future, huh
>>93116707only problem you'll have airbrushing acrylics is if you dont thin them or clean the airbrush.
>>93116789NTA, but I feel like the ease of airbrushing acrylics being overplayed can put people off when they try it. It can be a bit of a learning curve figuring out what additives and ratios you need to use before you start having a good experience with them, and letting that blindside people isn't great.
>>93116707Are you the /m/ guy that came here not too long ago perchance? You can airbrush acrylics just fine, sure they will never be as smooth as lacquers but I don't think anyone uses those for miniatures
>>93116882>make yourself a bottle of 4:1 thinner:flow improver>most acrylics will work fine if you thin them 1:1 with that mix>slowly add more if it clogs for some reasonphew that was hard
>>93116908I would use lacquer primers for minis if I actually had any, but that's about it.Maybe for vehicles and large base coats like that.
>>93116817Not mixing in the airbrush is all I can think of. But I’ve shelved the idea for the color scheme requiring that grey white, anyway.>>93116882Don’t get me started on primers either. I see so much conflicting info on whether or not to thin them.
>>93116908Indeed, I’ve been taught not to use acrylics and experienced the horrendous clogs using Vallejo mecha paint. For warhammer I’ve only used airbrush for priming with aqueous primers from Mr hobby and acrysion series acrylics, which are very good for mecha stuff but they ruin a lot of details as they cure to a specific foil-like form. I still don’t grasp all the paint types you use for tabletops and why they differ from „our” paints but I can see some overlap and some differences
Here's the template I made for the derpy papercraft terminator librarian if anyone wants to build one
>>93117064I'm a retard, what should I print this on so it's at least somewhat durable
>>93117064And here's the phobos librarian. These guys are easier to recolor for other chapters when all you have to do is change one shoulder pad.
>>93117090If you're in the US, anything in your local store's stationary aisle marked as card stock should work as I make my templates to fit into a 8" x 10" print area (A4 seems to be the international standard, which us yanks have to either rescale or move parts to fit into our US letter printer margins). About 65-100lb stock goes through my crappy printer fine. You can either cut everything out with scissors or a hobby knife on a cutting mat depending on your preference. I like to fill in all cut edges with a black felt-tipped marker (sharpie). Aleen's turbo tacky glue is god-tier for papercrafting but you can get the regular Aleen's craft glue at the Dollar tree now. Elmers works but is slow to dry. A nice pair of long needle nose pliers is also nice to have to use as a fold brake for smaller parts like tabs.
>>93117041Lacquers use solvents that evaporate faster than water making them better for airbrushing but god awful for brush painting.
>>93117170The models are sturdier in some ways than plastic/resin but weaker in others.. If you drop a model off of a high shelf it'll be fine as they don't weigh enough to break. If you accidentally set a large rulebook on them though they'll bend and crush. You also have to use clear varnish on them if you use an inkjet printer as any moisture will cause fish eyes in the print. The best way to get the paper bases to look right is to use an appropriately sized plastic base to wrap the ring part around, glue the white part to the back of the black part to have the ring wall double up with the plastic base as a form, then apply a thin line of glue to the top of the ring before applying the texture printed disc part as close to the edge as possible. Remove the paper base from the plastic base and clean off any smeared glue from it before using it the same way on the next base.
I've never had an issue while airbrushing acrylics beyond the occasional sputtering due to a dry tipIdk how some of you can have such a hard time with it
>>93117375>Idk how some of you can have such a hard time with itThat’s my issue, I don’t know either. I’ve watched so many tutorials and videos trying to figure out where I’m fucking up.
>>93111806>Any reason you can't use Reaper?I can, just decided to try buying what was at the FLGS and wondered how the fuck they're charging 15$ for this but turns out 15$ is the MSRP which seems fucked.
>>93117254>>93117170>>93117098>>93117064Cool, now where's the 40k scale Warlord Titan and Gargant?
>>93117233That's not why they're better for airbrushing than water or solvent based acrylics. At least outside of them drying faster on the model - which isn't the issue people have with acrylic+airbrush in the first place - that basically doesn't matter in either case with the thickness of airbrush coats drying essentially instantly for either. The difference is that the solvent is SIGNIFICANTLY more aggressive allowing it to consistently self-clean/self-dissolve the paint that is drying during your painting session.Acrylic airbrush:>Tiny bits of paint build up as the air flows through the brush, and mainly on the tip that's directly exposed to open air>This build-up eventually clogs your brush, or causes bad flow and spattering>The water and thinner running through the brush can not reactivate this build-up quickly despite it not actually being cured yetLacquer airbrush:>paint still dries, but the solvent is so aggressive that consistent flow of paint self-cleans the brush while it's in use because it will nearly instantly activate the paint on contact>The paint does not build up>the airbrush does not clog
>>93117470I dont know man but there arent really that many variables when it comes to airbrushing>pressure (controlled by the compressor)>air/paint flow ratio (controlled by you with the trigger)>paint dilution (you make it yourself)>distance (self explanatory)I mean theres not really outside factors that can impair so severely the performance, beyond extreme temperatures.
>>93117661>PressureI usually keep it at 20psi>air flowI know the trigger method of down, back, forward, up. Well practiced.>Paint DilutionI use way more than the like 1:2/3 drops people do, like 1:8. >DistanceYeah, I test before I spray to get a good idea where to position the tip.All I can think of is something in my dilution/psi ratio. It’s just that the like 1:2/3 feels like it’d be too thick or opaque and would easily mess up.
>>93117734how the fuck is it possible for it to clog when you're pretty much spraying glazes, I don't understand
>>93117743Beats me, man. I had 1:10 in there at one point. The tip just dried within seconds each time.
Made some good progress with this today in the nice weather, I might need to go back and smooth a few blends thoughI hope you all have been having some good hobby time recently and also hoping that >>93109803didnt die
>>93116188I'll try a gloss varnish then. Thank you anon.
>>93108901Tried asking in the 40k general but they're too busy circlejerking over current thingAnybody have a good image reference of different forgeworld color schemes for admech? I want to paint up my killteam in something other than red since I have a bunch of red models already
>>93117898
>>93117932>meme garbage from redditcome on anon>>93117898I think the most popular ones are Ryza and Metallica. Sorry I don't have a higher res but you get the idea
>>93117954>squashed garbage from pinterestCome on anon
>>93118024https://imgur.com/a/adeptus-mechanicus-skitarii-official-schemes-aiBoRop
>>93117932>>93117954>>93118024>>93118030>>93118317Very helpful, thanks
Nobody ever (you)s my models anymore
>>93118553Same, but that's okay.It means I have not fucked up too badly for someone to have to call it out
>>93118553What did you ask?
>>93118632>>93118553Yeah pretty much. They must've been decent enough but not good or terrible enough to attract autists. Ask for feedback if you want replies
>>93117769I'd carefully disassemble the needle guard and nozzle from the body, double check that there isn't any buildup on the inside of the nozzle. If there is paint in the cup will stick to that instead of shooting out no matter how thin, had it happen to me. Also what are you thinning with, just thinner? I switched to uncle vince's mix of 80/20 airbrush thinner/flow improver and it completely fixed my clogs. Paint dilution will also depend on paint brand. Old vallejo I thin a lot more than proacryl because proacryl is quirky. Its going to look too thick, it'll feel too thick when you mix it, but it will spray perfectly.
>>93119187NTA but whats a good way to really deep clean an airbrush and needle? I clean it after every use but I still notice some buildup.
>>93118553Means they're acceptable, because people on the higher end have nothing to say about them besides "get betterer fag" and people on the lower end aren't chasing you for mold lines/undrilled barrels/thick paints or other beginner mistakes.
>>93117769I'll add to the other anon's suggestions.Use a flow improver, in my experience that helpsAlso, something I feel that doesn't get brought up very often is don't run air through the brush unless you're also painting. Even short bursts of air without paint flowing can cause really bad tip dry.
>>93118553They didn't want to mention the gap.
>>93119216>They didn't want to mention the gapIn what alternate universe would this ever happen?
>>93116832You should be priming your bases as well since you want the paint to stick to them just as well as it sticks to your models. Subassembly fags have all sorts of strange problems that army painters don't have
>>93119257Its so weird, all you need to do is:>map out where the mini will be glued once done>drill the hole>put piece of toothpick in it to keep it clear>make sure pinned mini sits flush to the pinning spot>primeLike maybe 2 more minutes of work per mini. I've always been a firm proponent of solving a problem before it becomes a problem.
>>93119211I paint at high tabletop level and I never drill my barrels. I'll paint a black circle if it's in a relatively visible spot but otherwise I just don't give a fuck. Sue me
>>93119299Most people who are decent at painting don't care about drilled barrels, it's only paintlets with all grey armies that get super wound up over it. In general they will pick something in the build process to nitpick because it's the only thing they've done personally and can feel superior about
>>93119199I use 90% IPA and a soft brush, metal pipe cleaners are a little too rough on the brass nozzles I've found. Also recommend getting either needle juice or some light oil, I use sewing machine oil since I have it handy. Once you're done with the airbrush and have finished cleaning it, put a few drops of juice/light oil on a paper towel and put a light coat on the needle, rubbing in once direction from back to the tip. So not dripping with it, just a light coat and reassemble. Other thing to maybe try would be mixing paint outside the cup first, may be that the paint is sinking down into the channel before you've had a chance to blowback mix it, or may not be mixing as well. Just eliminating variables at this point to track down the problem.
>>93119299>I never drill my barrels.PUT YOUR HAND ON THAT WALL!
>>93119285Foresight takes time to aquire when painting. You have to paint a lot of shit before you realize a good workflow to keep yourself from getting fucked over at a later point.
>>93119338>t. Grey tide user
I mix paint in the airbrush cup and I have yet to experience a clogging
>>93119329Came back here to try and stir shit up cause you got called out in 40kg, eh? You really are a persistent schizo
>>93119187>I'd carefully disassemble the needle guard and nozzle from the body, double check that there isn't any buildup on the inside of the nozzle. If there is paint in the cup will stick to that instead of shooting out no matter how thin, had it happen to me. Also what are you thinning with, just thinner? I switched to uncle vince's mix of 80/20 airbrush thinner/flow improver and it completely fixed my clogs.That's exactly what I've done/do. I actually had to scale back how thoroughly I clean the airbrush because I was basically doing a deep clean and lube with every use.
>>93112980They cute
>>93119472If its always been a hassle maybe you just got a bad brush? Could grab a cheap chinesium brush like a master g223 or something.
Ok bros please don't troll me here, tamiya airbrush cleaner and extra thin cement are the same shit basically, right? It's not some fucking meme that I'm about to regret? I still have some cement left but it's at the very bottom and the brush doesn't always pick up enough so I want to fill it up
>>93119502I've used a badger patriot 105 and now the new Harder & Steinbeck Ultra 2024. It's just some skill issue on my end, but at this point I need something like in-person instruction on how to use the damn things.
>>93113025looking good so far anon, I like the colors. Is this the one that fell of and broke? I don't know much about nid models
I finished the base on this one, doing some vargheists next, I think
>>93119502>>93119540Though, I am curious about something now that you bring up a bad brush. I did notice this on the inside and I don't know if that's normal or not. Can't find a good look online of the same part.
>>93119541I'm not the anon you're replying to but if you're referring to the post about accidentally breaking the Hive Tyrant's tail in a moment of panic after it had slipped and then managed to repair it, that one was mine. My Hive Tyrant is metal; had it been plastic (as the modern Flying one was only ever plastic) it likely wouldn't have even worried me because the reason it happened was I thought the fall might have bent the tail when it turned out it didn't. I just didn't take a picture of the before or after of it because I've shared that Hive Tyrant here prior a few times and since he's not really been updated at all beyond the regeneration of his tail or an occasional touch up I just thought there wasn't much of a point since it wouldn't really be anything new to show.I am interested to see where his Hive Tyrant goes though; the pale blue skin looks quite nice. Wings seem pretty good too so far.
>>93119514I mean if yo don't believe us try it yourself with some sprue and see if it's meld together the same way as with plastic cement
>>93119619What seems to be the problem?
>>93119496Thanks! I'm not a great painter, but I sculpted them and I think they turned out pretty good.
>>93119675That little slot on the left next to the actual needle hole. I don't know if that's supposed to be there or if the needle hole should be the only opening there. Because that could cause excess paint to flood into the nozzle. Now I don't know if that's the actual function of that hole or if the needle hole is supposed to be the only access point for the paint.
>>93119669I... didn't think of that
>>93119693That's where the air comes into the nozzle cap to flow around the nozzle and out the front. Paint only comes through the hole in the center.
>>93119713Huh. I should've considered that, too.
>my tamiya pin vice arrived todayShit's so nice. Consooming from time to time doesn't feel half bad. What are some cool hobby related thingies you like anons
>>93119898Ive splurged a lot on dspiae paint mixer and their single blade nipper
>>93119898I feel good about taking the medical scalpel pill early last year every time I use mine or want to change the blade. At the rate I've been going the next time I'll have to spend 18€ on a new 100-pack of blades will be around Christmas 2026.
>>93119400What are you on about you retard, I only play aos
Easiest way for a complete newbie to get 50 minis painted relatively quickly to a tabletop standard that wouldn't be offputting to the other people playing? Contrast paints or something else?It's mostly ghouls/zombies/skeletons.
>>93120153Contrasts, yeah. Skeletons lend themselves really well to drybrushing so if you feel like going a bit further than just contrasts on their own you can do that. Also you could get some canned matt varnish because contrasts/speedpaints/xpress color can dry glossy which looks weird
Something about the colour of the hair bugs me, i'm wondering if i should go for more of a lavender instead of the magenta?
>>93120539Color is fine, but it makes more sense to put the lighter part on top.
>>93116726If you used the long tab on the head to put it into place initially it will be difficult. Not impossible and will require tweezers or needlenose pliers. This will also 100% destroy the paintjob on the head and strong likelihood of paint damage to the surrounding area.
How much are decent FDM printers for bulk terrain printing? I know resin has better resolution, but they're a lot more expensive and have much smaller work zones, looking at making big pieces for cheap but still kinda decent.
Planes!Nyooooom
>>93122496Razorwing best plane.
Got a sergeant kell metal mini and the eagle wing at the top of the flag pole was bent. So I put it back in place but I feel it is weakened.Will super glue on top of the weakened metal part "reinforce" the metal to stay in place?
>>93122603if there is no visible fracture its all good otherwise it might fall of if you even look at it wrong
>>93119682Did you sculpt them from scratch or did you greenstuff clothing on existing minis? Either way I would never have guessed they weren't originals.
>>93122496>NyooooomNegative, Ghost Rider... the pattern is full!
>>93119562The base is looking good anon. The blood spatter isnt' really my cup of tea.
Behold! Chinkllejo flow improver
>>93123052Where are u getting those?Are the paints any good?
>>93123109On Taobao with google translate,>Are the paints any good? I found not much different between them and Vallejo model color line, other than the price. Samey consistency and coverage too
>>93121796$339 for the entry level just werkz printer from Bambu during their anniversary sale right now, $429 regularly. If you're willing to tinker a lot to find out how to get it working for your use-case you can pick up a used one for like $70-$200 as pretty much anything with a decent buildplate from the original Ender 3 and onward will work fine.Resin isn't really useful for any terrain bigger than board scatter.
>>93121796It's not worth it. You need to buy resin, alcohol to clean, remove nubs and whatever the shit, just find some local 3D printer service with resonable price
>>93123266i got my resin printer 3 days ago but the geniuses put my resin into separate package that might not arrive until monday, i have been sitting here for 3 days just looking at my new expensive paperweightt. eri
>>93123266That's resin printers. FDM are the ones that use plastic like PLA.
>>93123299Resin is better for miniature and model though because of all the details and shit
>>93123307Obviously but the question was for terrain printing where you don't want to use resin for anything big anyway.
>>93119514they are both a mix of acetone and one other chemical with ratio difference of 1% so Tamiya can sell them as 2 different productshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKm9rwHFwLs
>>93123376Man, i just bought a bottle of Tamiya clear red on sale for $1 and it's the best blood paint i've ever seen. Smell like strong wine though
>>93119514Yeah and you supposedly to thin Tamiya acrylic with IPA, not water for hand painting
>>93119514>>93123376huh I didn't know about this at all.Does vallejo airbrush cleaner work like this too by any chance?
>>93123474Probably, it's all the same shit with minor differences in formulation.
>>93123145Chinese will steal everything, eh?I remember how I bought one of their articulated plastic girls models and some of parts and engineering solutions were identical to one used in Japanese Kotobukiya. Coincidentally both used same factory. I wonder how could that happen...
>>93123474>>93123481no, vallejos is nothing like tamiya, tamiya is 1:1 acetone and butyl acetatevallejos is <10% 2-butoxyethanol
>>93123532Yeah well chinks manufacture the genuine products as well for the most part. I don't imagine it would be particularly hard for them to copy the process for bootlegs or even do it in the exact same factory. Why do you think ali and temu got so popular? People realised they're buying rebranded chinesium anyway so why shouldn't they just buy it from the source and skip the 10 guys that have earn their markup while it gets to EU/US? I know it's probably bad for the economy or whatever but tough shit. You shouldn't have outsourced everything to China then you greedy motherfuckers
>>93123556Funny that you mention Ali and Temu since recently more and more companies in EU demands governments (at least mine) to limit Chinese shops influence on the market because too many people buy cheap stuff, mostly clothes, from them. I wonder why...Speaking of, which mini producing companies (GW, Corvus Belli, Victrix, Perry, etc) produce locally? I would assume at least some of them moved part of production to China.
>>93123556>I know it's probably bad for the economyif the product you are not buying is already made in china its actually better, it means more money in the pocket of the common folk to spend locally (or not of course) in beers and less money in the pockets of big corps that even if they have to pay taxes in your country they probably don't or do a lot less than you
>>93123591GW actually has their own factories and makes their minis and paints locally. All of the tools, brushes etc is rebranded chinkshit though
>tfw tried /40kg/ to no repliesanyone here tried the pro acryl metallics outside of dark silver? dark silver is fuckin amazing and if the rest of their metallics are like that id be very happy to get the lotthinking of getting the metallics boxset given that i already use dark silver and will probably go through the entire bottle soon
>>93123613>unironically going to 40kg, the literal trash can of this boardI don't own proacryl metallics but I'm sure someone here does. I'm pretty sure I've seen anons say at least their gold is great as well though.
>watching youtube tutorial about thin paint, glazing so on all the basic stuff>so we come to color theory and now we use this Citaldel paint with stupid fucking name>zzzzzzzzzzis there like any guide pdf for miniature painting
>>93123608Brushes are not chinkshit what are you on about? If anything they have the manuals printed in china, the rest is either UK or france.
>>93123656
>>93123665Dude, your kolinsky sable brushes is probably made by chinks
>>93123671Prefer something that isn't Citadel with their stupid paint names
>>93123674rosemary manufactures locally, by extension artis opus(at least the brushes) won't be chinkshit either
>>93123684Same quality as mass produced chinkshit
>>93123683you dont know the half of it, they also keep renaming the old ones so you need charts to figure that shit out
>>93123683Unfortunately a lot of hobby brands do these stupid ass names. I think you're better off just accepting that
>>93123688Who said anything about quality? The point is where the stuff is made.
>>93123688my brother we weren't talking about quality, only if it's manufactured locally
>>93123665oh really? My bad then, they're so fucking garbage I just assumed it's chinkshit since it doesn't say anywhere where they're manufactured
>>93123591>EUthey now wan to tax 50% on chinese ev...free market for me but not for thee>which mini producing companies (GW, Corvus Belli, Victrix, Perry, etc) produce locally?gw makes models in house and paints outsourced in the uk, burshes are w&n so atleast in the eu, almost everything else is china, like books, cards, boxes, dice...renedra in the uk makes perrys and some other brands, I think they make fireforge stuff too, at least the bases they use(d)northstar also in the uk makes LOTS of stuff, like frostgrave, stargrave...theres also archon in poland, they make their own line and produce for at least para bellum, not sure who elseno idea about the restanything pcv like the models usually found in boardgames are definitely china, those are illegal to make in the EU due to regulations on additives
>24 bucks for this
>>93123790what is it
>>93123802a meme for holding miniatures for spraying, so a piece of cardboard and tape
>>93123790I'm ashamed to this day I bought their knife and nippers. In my defense though I was returning to the hobby after like 20 years. When I was a kid all the expensive citadel stuff seemed so premium and out of reach so I wanted to just buy it now that I had money
>>93123790I bought this because I thought it was a neat idea.What they don't tell you is the paint flakes off the bands.
>>93123805Yeah, i bought their nipper and moudline remover and it was a fucking piece of shit, the $40 nipper is no difference than $2 Plato nipper and the moudline remover is just too big for most minis, and it's not even sharp
>>93123829even I wasn't dumb enough to buy the mouldline remover because I didn't understand the purpose of it if I had a knife already lol
>>93123818>What they don't tell you is the paint flakes off the bands.if they need to tell you that it means you are the target audience
>>93123838the purpose is not selling a razor blade to kids to remove mouldlines because kids are dumb
>KnifeOlfa for life yo
>>93123842
>>93123851I like how you focused on the crotch of that mecha girl instead of the knives
>>93123850Oh, it didn't occur to me. Is that really necessary though? I remember both me and the guys I got into warhammer with at like 12 or 13 using hobby knives and the worst that happened were some small finger cuts. Then again maybe britbong kids are retarded or something
>>93123883society is becoming more overprotecting in some ways over the yearsactual warhammer models have an age warning label of 4+ (this label is on many toys since 1995), so maybe razorblades need a higher age label so it wont look good when aunt karen comes to the store and sees that she needs to buy age7+ tools for age4+ toys or something, and even if they don't have that label many ppl don't want their teens playing with blades anyways
>>93123883>>93123925see, the glue is 16+, now think how many push to fit models they have released in the pat years (mainly starter boxes) so you dont even need gluetheir target is clueless mothers and aunts with kids
>>93123838Yes, just what I want to say to a parent asking about the hobby for his kid: "oh yeah, don't worry, just give him a knife to do that"
>>93123851What are you gonna do to her anon?
>>93123851W-what are you planning to do with this plastic girl and those knifes?
Not sure about how this guy turned out, but it was pretty fast at least, I might have gone overboard with the blood
>>93123938>>93123925Does GW have some actual data on who's buying their products? I see the timmy and his mom argument come up very often but I really find it hard to believe this hobby is particularly appealing to modern kids.>>93123965the wings are very nice but the skin is pretty flat and uninteresting
>>93123965Need some dry brushing
>>93123979stories about gamestore kids used to be all the rage but i dont honestly remember if ive heard any in the last 10 years or sonot new ones atleast
is there a good paint thickener i can get? although i find the vallejo metal colour series great its way too thin imo and goes everywhere
>>93123979In this age of parents lobotomizing their sons with phones, not so much, but I'm seeing a small reversion of that. Some millennials are waking up from their social media addiction and remembering that there's a world outside their phones, and want their kids to live in it a bit more. I've seen a few of them getting starter sets for their kids.
>>93123979>Does GW have some actual data on who's buying their products? I see the timmy and his mom argument come up very often but I really find it hard to believe this hobby is particularly appealing to modern kids.you heard it often because it has been in the mind of many ppl for a while being how every decision gw makes is to dumb down the hobby part to make everything as easy as possible (this also lowers the barrier of entry whatever your age is tho) but mainly because an ex-gw designer explained it on a podcast and it makes a lot of sensehttps://youtu.be/-63A7cDkOm8?feature=shared&t=798the whole video is pretty interesting even if we have to take his word at face value, but it tracks
>>93123778>they now wan to tax 50% on chinese ev...>free market for me but not for theeGood.We need to stop relying on the chinks for everything.
>>93123995Thats the thing, I did drybrush it with a bunch of whites over a blue-ish grey
>>93124048It's going to be 50% when YOU buy it from the chinks. Companies will still rebrand chinesium and sell it to you with 300%+ markup, don't worry
>>93123979>>93124029My local GW is very well visited by a regular crowd of kids from ages 14 and up. Sometimes even playing or painting with their dads.Sales from that crowd are also pretty good according to the store manager, Kids have surprisingly a lot of money between allowance summer jobs, also they are advertising machines, when they get a taste of it they can´t shut up about it to their peers and this draws in new ones regularly.I think "dumbing" down the painting process also helps them a lot, in the aspect that they will buy more boxes when they finish them faster.
>>93124048completely agree, but the EU is just working against the very concept of local industry with all the regulations, ecology taxes and shitas an example, as I said earlier pvc miniatures cant be made in the eu because the additives you need to soften the pvc are prohibited in the concentrations needed, so you either move it to china or don't start a company at allso in the end the 'enviromental impact' is the same or even worse while the money goes outside
>/wip/ is racistwhy am i not surprised. do better you fucks
>>93124089Hey I'm not racist, I paint brown women all the time
>>93124079Plus, so much manufacturing was moved outside of EU I'm guessing a lot of industries would need to be started from scratch or close to it. It would require an insane amount of money that I doubt many people would be willing to risk. We get what we fucking deserve, the hypocrisy of all the pseudo green bullshit while we simply moved it all to china is honestly absurd. Just watch, the new tax on chinkshit will only effect consumers like >>93124067 said and you'll just be forced to spend more so that huge corporations can line up their pockets.
>>93124089I'm actually proud of being racist nowadays
@93124089Not even worth the you.Stop baiting and post some minis or get out.
>>93124089just wait until you see my penal legion
Milliput can be sanded once it's dry, right
>>93124067with cars is harder but yes, they already sell ev cars (and regular cars too) insanely expensive while getting the batteries from china, but they are now scared because an ev at half the price would destroy european car manufacturers, at he same time taxing a 50% on those cards whill trigger china to tax ours too so some of those manufacturers here will go broke anyways because they already sell a big chunk to chinaI'm just saving popcorn for the great economy collapse of our lifetimes
>people in a toy soldier painting thread thinking they understand how the world works
>>93124142yes, and drilled, cut, shaved , whatever
>>93124091>>93124113>>93124115>>93124116exposed
>>93124176as what, a brown woman enjoyer?
where is the red paint schizo?
>>93124176
>>93124197That's a good question I feel like I haven't seen him in the past few threads. Hope he's all right
>>93124199had nothing to do with that anon, just the fact that you're a racist piece of shit
>>93124176>>93124212As I've said, I'm proud of it. What's your point?
>>93124210I remember that he found THE red shade and said his journey is concluded.
>>93124197>>93124210maybe he tried to make red paint with his blood and it got out of hand
>>93124249nah, that was a fake, in the same thread the real one called that out
Anyone tried painting on glass before?
>>93124268why is there a glass cock on your desk anon
Tamiya clear red or Cystadel Blood for blood god?
>>93124279I never used these products but fuck citadel so I say tamiya
>>93124275Because i'm a wageslave
Ok I'm sorry for asking so many dumb question but I'm building my first vehicle and it's a new thing for me. I want to magnetise 2 parts, I think I have everything I need. Do I just drill holes, put greenstuff into them and put the magnets in it? I'm going to fill these gaps while gs is curing, getting that out of the way just in case someone gets triggered
>>93124197>>93124210Im right here fellas, Im in the proccess of buying a house and preparing the moving and all that stuff, not much free time to sperg about paint, much less to paint.Whats up?>>93124250Blood turns brown when it oxidizes so not a good red paint.Also it covers like shit.Dont ask.>>93124249>>93124257Yeah it was some cunt impersonating me.
>>93122651>if there is no visible fracture its all good otherwise it might fall of if you even look at it wrongThat's the thing. It is a used model I bought and I swear I think I saw a fracture. I want to try and reinforce the area.
>>93124340phew, for a second there I thought you were the anon that wasn't feeling well>Blood turns brown when it oxidizes so not a good red paint.>Also it covers like shit.uhhhhhh
>>93124351i would just snip it off and replace it with something plastic if its too small for pinning
>>93124371I guess I'll try supergluing and hope it solidifies the bent wing in place. If it still breaks off then I snip the whole thing off.I might do the super glue thing later today.
>>93123804I use a tissue box and blu-tac
I've never done dry brushing on a vehicle like this. Is this the effect I should be going for? I was going to sponge on some rhinox hide on the edge to show some damage and wear as well.
>>93122603no, heat it to 200ºC for maybe an hour and let it cool
>>93124454>Is this the effect I should be going forno that looks more like damage and wear and tear than actual drybrushingwipe the brush pretty dry before giving it a go and dont be afraid to apply some pressure to it, large surface like that is good practice
>>93124510sorry can you elaborate a little bit on what you mean? i thought dry brushing was just catching the raised edges to get the slight highlight colour onto it. I was definitely pretty sloppy and impatient in some spots on the vehicle but im happy with the more rugged look anyway its a traitor guard vehicle.
>>93124537nta, drybrush is a technique, you can achieve several effects with ityes you can use it to just catch the edges if that's what you are looking for, but you can also use it to make gradients on surfacesseehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnUWwq3Qtco
>>93124537>>93124574personally i never do any stippling while drybrushing its more akin to polishing a car with brush i concentrate on the edges and middle of even surfaces with base color and then lastly give edges a highlight with something lighter rivets and edges where one might have messed up are easily fixed with little wash after
>>93124454>Is this the effect I should be going for?If you like the effect, then yes.
>>93124574>>93124648 thanks guys. ive previously (tediously) used a layer brush to do the edge highlights but i thought that drybrushing was more for speeding this up and getting a finer edge. pic related is what i've done previously. i think i like the drybrush effect a bit better especially for a larger vehicle like a chimera honestly. just hoping to find something i can stick to for the rest of this army.
>>93124481I'm not sure if trolling or genuine as I've seldom worked with metal models.I'm just concerned about the eagle wing on the Colour sergeant Kell flag as when I bent it back into place it didn't require much force. I want to use super glue to "lock" it in place.
>>93124717you might want to pass on that unless you were planning on casting him again in the future warm them up in boilin water whatever and then carefully bend those parts proper
>>93124757>in the future warm them up in boilin water whatever and then carefully bend those parts properYou learn something new everyday. Alright. I'll go forward with my super glue locking idea. Here's hoping it works.
>>93124717i'm not trolling, its called annealingsome metals like this work harden, meaning when you bend them enough they become brittle so they crack, that's the 'weakening' you describeannealing is the process of heating a metal to about half its metling point (in K) so the molecules can rearrange and relieve tension thus 'undoing' the work hardeningnow the white metal used in miniatures is mostly tin with little lead or antimonium and maybe a bit of something else and has a low melting point, so just heating it a bit above room temperature can get you the annealingthat said im not sure about the melting point of your particular piece but 200ºC seems safe enough for it to not lose detail, that said you can try it on some spare pieces or waste like the tabs if you remove themps: im not a metal scientist and never had the need to do this but science says it should work
>>93124827>annealingI looked it up. Sorry I doubted you anon. I'll look into safe ways of doing this sort of thing without scalding myself. How long should I dip it in the scalding water?
>>93124827lets test it then, i hour 200celcius and go from therei tried pending lictor spikes to breaking point but they just broke off because ive obviously never done this intentionally
>>93124930im not sure on that, if you do it in water (so 100ºC, be careful the boiling doenst smash your model around) try maybe an hour and see how its going, its not a destructive process so you can try as many times as you need
>>93124955Thank you anon. I'll try the super glue thing on the sergeant kell model and if it doesn't work then I'll try annealing. I've got the 2003 Cadian standard bearer and if it needs such a thing done I'll do the same for him.You and so many other WIP anons are a blessing on this blight-site.
>>93119257I did prime my bases. The primer is what was flaking off and taking the paint with it.
>>93124983These threads are pretty chill usually. Unless some schizo comes in from like 40kg or someshit or you act like an absolute ape you can get decent advice and feedback here. Stick around if you enjoy building and/or painting, anon
>>93124827>>93124930now the results30 minutes in 200celsius no change2 minutes in 250celsius marine melted so pewter and white metal can both handle 200c, hopefully i didnt just make a puddle of some invaluable collectors item
>>93125200There are better ways for a marine to die.
>>93125200interesting, I didnt expect the melting point to be that lowyou can still test the annealing with the puddle tho, more time at those 200 or even less, how much more who knows>https://www.researchgate.net/publication/316802834_Annealing_optimization_for_tin-lead_eutectic_solder_by_constitutive_experiment_and_simulationminiatures dont have that much lead if any at all, its usually 5-10%, but here they recomend 6h at 180ºC
>>93125200Dude, pewter have melting temp between 170 and 230C, depending on composition. He literally said "half the melting point" and you went over it.
>>93123613Their dark metallics are great, rich gold and dark bronze have excellent coverage with usually one coat. Copper, light bronze, silver, and white gold need 2 coats for full opacity but are lovely once on. Like all pro acryl you want to use as little water as you need to get them workable, usually spread on the wet palette and picked up with a damp wicked brush is enough.
>>93110316These are charming. Nice work.
>>93123613Forgot to mention the metallic medium, its...interesting. you add a bit to other paint to make metallic colors, but the medium lightens the colors up so much it's hard to get a shade close to the base color. Works alright with their dark paints like deep grey blue or deep purple that can go lighter, but something like a medium blue gets turned into a light blue before the metallic is apparent.
>>93125200>>93125274>>93125278I cant find a precise temperature on a quick google but>https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/36580-tin-and-pewter-annealing-temp-relative-to-melting-temp/?do=findComment&comment=373580so:250+273 = 523523x0.6 ~=314314-273 = 41ºCso a lot less than 200 should be enough, you could try say, 80 next for a couple hours
>>93125348it's a medium so you really need just color, pure pigment or inks would work better to make your own metallic color
>>93123938I honestly really like the push fit kits, if you’re going to be monopole at least make it easier to assemble.I fucking wish Blissbarb Archers were push fit.
>>93124983>You and so many other WIP anons are a blessing on this blight-siteNo worries, just take it all in stride. There will always be some jackass trying to get their jollies by trying to start shit.
>>93124955>>93124931>>93124827>>93124481>>93122603Update. Super glue worked in securing the unbroken metal wing on Kell's flag in place. No need for annealing.>>93125200Holy. Thank you for your service and sacrifice anon.
>>93125418for monoposes it even makes sense, its not making kitbashing any harder so might as well make the default assembly easiersome of them have hideous and very badly placed seams tho
>>93125474>Holy. Thank you for your service and sacrifice anon.no problem anon good to hear it worked out and we also got chemistry/metallurgy lesson
tabletop quality coming troughi got all my characters painted
>>93124339GS to hold the magnets? It's not exactly glue.
>>93124454Probably too much paint on the brush, though drybrushing near flat surfaces is always a bit tricky. It does look a bit like random damage though, so it kinda works out.
>>93124340you're going to paint your new house in wine red arent youalso in mentioning that, do you prefer the wine red over the pro acryl burnt red? i found the latter to be way better
>>93125317>>93125348appreciated anon, ill give their metallic boxset a try when i get the chance. im glad theres lots of great metallic paints around but fucking hell theres some horrible ones. the vallejo ones that arent metal colour are so bad, and the pre fanatic AP ones are just terrible
>>93125654I got the fanatic copper to try out and it's bretty good>>93125599yeah I know I've seen people online use it to hold magnets and seemed to work fine. I went ahead with it since I got no replies and I think it's fine. Could've probably just used super glue instead, obviously. I mean it does look like some literal retard made it but hey it works. I don't even know why I bothered because I dont play tabletop. I just thought it could be a fun thing to try since I've never magnetised anything before
>>93125751Okay, welp. I use the superglue baking soda trick and that works for me.
>>93125751take little time to work out the best way to use the magnets before you glue the model together so you dont necessarily need any green stuff at allremember magnets take even trough the plastic, bigger horizontal parts might need magnet to magnet contact and some grit to hold them but normal weapons wont mind
>>93125894>>93125771Those are rather small and pretty light parts that's why I was pretty sure I can't fuck it up too badly. I wanted to magnetize the 2 small guns that go on the doors as well but I fucking forgot to glue the magnets before I assembled the fuselage. Oh well, don't think I'm gonna bother drilling holes in the doors.Thanks for the input though anons, I completely fucking forgot about the baking soda+superglue thing, would've probably worked better than gs
>>93125641I haven't easy access to proacryl stuff and I bought just the bold Pyrrole red because of how much people praised it. However I already own VMC Burnt Red, it cannot be that different... Right?>tfw I cannot convince the wife to paint the bedroom in wine red, says it looks too much like a playboy mansion
>>93123613
If you're using pro acryl you are past the point of using TMM, anons. I'm surprised they even offer it.
>>93126788>if you buy a particular brand from your LGS you must be too good to use a particular techniqueI dare you to make less sense
>>93126788properly shaded and highlighted tmm looks better than nmm, fight me
>>93126850In my opinion NMM only really outshines (heh) TMM at a very, very high level.Otherwise most people would be better off just doing TMM.And dont even get me started in the retarded NMM most hobbyist do with sword blades that looks like a piano.
>>93126907inb4 that shitty youtuber nmm
>>93126826mini painting never needed the cool factor to begin withive yet to see if being a contrarian connosseur ever led to better results when it comes to painting, mostly it produces fart huffing and shitposting not painted miniatures
>>93126925>barely any youtube tier lists or e celeb drama being posted here recentlythey called youtube schizo a madman
rate my NMM
>>93126907Oh I'm getting you started.The more perfectly consistent gradients you can fit on a sword the more NMM it is. This is a fact!
>>93122748I sculpted them from scratch in zbrush and 3d printed them. I'm so glad they pass as originals, I was hoping to capture the oldhammer look.
>>93127013>>93127022It begins
>>93127022>TMM cross-guard>'NMM' bladefor what purpose
>>93123613I use their Copper, Light Bronze, and Rich Gold regularly, and their regular Bronze somewhat less often. All fantastic paints, best metallics I have.
>>93127069for youtube views/reddit upvotes, of course
I heard about some people using Liquitex acrylic paints for minis. How are they, compared to, say, Vallejo? Since these are not specifically made for plastic models, I assume they are "optimized" for different applications, right?
>>93127170nobody uses liquitex acrylic paints. They sometimes use their mediums and inks.
>>93127188Are "artist" acrylic paints generally unsuitable for scale models? Why?
>>93127213>Are "artist" acrylic paints generally unsuitable for scale modelsThey arent
So I did the thingies on top as well, just for the hell of it. This time with super glue. This is pretty fun ngl
>>93127231Then why not use them? My local art store sells mentioned Liquitex for equivalent of 5€ in 118ml bottles while model store sells 12ml Citadel paints for only slightly less.
>>93127013You post this exact same picture of someone else's nmm every 2-6 weeks bro
>>93124089Kys nigger
>>93127670I think he's trying to push it as a meme or something. Youtuber memes are peak cringe though
>anon really took /wip/s "trust me bro" advice on annealing hardened steel at face value and tried it on a white metal miniatureToday is the day I refuse to help you retards with anything anymore.
>>93127694good, you can leave the thread as well nobody gives a fuck about your advice
>>93127701Cry us a river, you fucking baby lol
>>93124089Name one good thing niggers have ever done for the world
So what the fuck do I do about gaps and why should I care? Is there something better than green stuff? Isn't resin poison? Can I just use glue? holy shit im about to explode out my ass bye bye
New thread:>>93128046>>93128046>>93128046
>>93128042you deal with gaps before you glue the model so you dont have to deal with them after
I have some old citadel brushes but I think it's time that I get some new painting supplies. The only other brand I know of is Windsor and Newton series 7, which are too expensive to get a whole range of. What brushes would you guys recommend?
>>93128042Resin is only poison if you breath or eat it. Don't do those things. I prefer diluted miliput for gaps, but you can use whatever you like.. or nothing.
